Wednesday, July 13, 2011


(includes Kloten)


1 Kreis (Altstadt)
Café/Bar Odeon – 2 Limmatquai; 011-41-044-251-1650;; where Einstein & Lenin read paper, cut classes, etc.
Felix Café am Bellevue – 5 Bellevueplatz; 011-41-044-251-8060;; ornate, high-ceilinged café shop; great pastries & Teuscher sweets.
Metropol Restaurant & Café/Bar – 12 Fraumuensterstrasse; 011-41-044-200-5900;; beautiful outdoor seating (weather permitting) & indoor seating in impressive, neo-Baroque banking building; coffee & tea.

3 Kreis (Wiedikon)
Kaffeepur – 45 Zentralstrasse Wiedikon; 011-41-079-411-4909;; coffeeshop.

1 Kreis (Altstadt)
Cabaret Voltaire – 1 Spiegelgasse; 011-41-043-268-5720;; avant-garde art exhibits, live jazz, plus hip cafe/bar in Dadaism’s quirky & spiritual home (1916).
Kronenhalle Bar – 4 Rämistrasse; 011-41-044-262-9900;; among city’s most venerable institutions; extraordinarily expensive so just have drink at bar & peek in restaurant; table legs designed by Giacometti; art by Chagall, Miro & Picasso (though some sold).
Metropol Restaurant & Café/Bar – 12 Fraumuensterstrasse; 011-41-044-200-5900;; beautiful outdoor seating (weather permitting) & indoor seating in impressive, neo-Baroque banking building.
Rive Gauche Bar – 1 Talstrasse (at Baur au Lac Hotel); 011-41-044-220-5020;; beside lake; terrace excellent for early evening cocktails.
Widder Bar – 7 Rennweg (at Widder Hotel); 011-41-044-224-2526;; place to come for jazz on Tuesdays, when venue hosts top international names in Autumn & Spring concert series; long, sweeping, curved wooden bar stocked for any imaginable drinks (over 1K bottles, with over 500 different spirits); whisky range particularly impressive, with 250 single malts; lots of wooden beams, carved ceilings & red leather punched walls; slightly sinister statues randomly adorn space; red leather seats & working grand piano.

2 Kreis (West of Lake Zürich)
Library Lounge – 152 Brandschenkestrasse (at B2 Boutique Hotel + Spa); 011-41-044-567-6767;; 36' library stacks; good place for cheese & wine.
Onyx – 21 Beethoven-Strasse (at Park Hyatt); 011-41-043-883-1234;; glamorous space featuring onyx stone bar lit from within & endless chestnut & bronze accents; barrel-aged cocktails are bar’s forte.

4 Kreis (Aussersihl)
Club Zukunft – 33 Dienerstrasse (Langstrasse); 011-41-043-539-8652;; storefront bar with post-disco interior; electronic music & underground vibe.
Helvti – 1 Stauffacherquai (at Hotel Helvetia); 011-41-044-297-9999;; weather permitting, try drinks outside (rooftop bar); became infamous in 1970s for illegal lock-ins & role as meeting point for discontented artists who were plotting counter-cultural revolution; still holds Bohemian charm; dandy chic style; well-kept secret above Sihl River; tiny.

5 Kreis (Industriequartier)
Moods Zürich – 6 Schiffbaustrasse; 011-41-044-276-8000;; 1st-rate jazz club
Riffraff – 57-63 Neugasse; 011-41-044-444-2200;; 100-year-old venue with 4 movie halls for international films, plus popular bar & intimate bistro.
Hotel Rivington & Sons (“Marvelous Bar”) – 201 Hardstrasse (in Prime Tower); 011-41-043-366-9082;; among Zürich’s quirkiest bottle collections in painstakingly recreated speakeasy-style decor.

1 Kreis (Altstadt)
Baur au Lac – 1 Talstrasse; 011-41-044-220-5020;; established in 1844; overlooks Limmat River, Lake Zürich & Alps; aophisticated rooms come with free Wi-Fi & minibars, as well as TVs, DVD players & marble bathrooms; suites add Bluetooth sound systems & 1 offers balcony & kitchenette; some quarters have river views; room service available 24 hours; 4 high-end restaurants, 1 with bar; fitness room features lake & mountain views.
Hotel Florhof – 4 Florhofgasse; 011-41-044-250-2626;; most charming small hotel in Zürich; just outside city center on quiet street; modest, family-owned hotel in 1763 building; 3 minute walk from Kunsthaus Zürich art museum; relaxed rooms with wood floors feature free Wi-Fi & cable TV, as well as designer bathroom amenities; garden & town views; breakfast is free; restaurant with terrace & vaulted cellar.
Hotel Rössli – 7 Rössligasse; 011-41-044-256-7050;; modern hotel; chic, contemporary rooms feature free Wi-Fi & flat-screen TVs; suites add rooftop terraces, while apartments come with kitchens, living rooms & dining rooms; breakfast is complimentary; restaurant serves Sicilian-Mediterranean cuisine; steps from renowned Café/Bar Odeon.
Widder Hotel – 7 Rennweg (in Bahnhofstrasse shopping area); 011-41-044-224-2526;; charming yet posh; 49 rooms & suites, some with stone & woodwork from Middle Ages, others with furniture by Mies van der Rohe & Jean Tinguely; spreads across 9 interconnected buildings; individually decorated rooms have free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, Nespresso machines & minibars, while upgrades add seating areas; luxe suites feature exposed beams or fireplaces; apartments have free-standing tubs & roof terraces; free breakfast served in-room or on terrace; chic restaurant with wood paneling & outdoor dining, cozy bar & library, as well as fitness center.

2 Kreis (West of Lake Zürich)
B2 Boutique Hotel + Spa – 152 Brandschenkestrasse; 011-41-044-567-6767;; boldly designed, hip, hotel housed in former brewery; 60-room, 4-floor property; occupies 3 buildings dating to 1880; ask for Hurlimann Executive Room (airy feel with gauzy, white curtains, wide, oak-plank flooring & quirky touches; lovely bath products.
Park Hyatt Zürich – 21 Beethovenstrasse; 011-41-043-883-1234;; 142-room glass & steel structure; chic rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows & marble bathrooms with soaking tubs & rainfall showerheads; free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs & Nespresso machines; room service available 24/7; modern international restaurant, lobby lounge with fireplace & cocktail bar.

4 Kreis (Aussersihl)
Dakini’s Bread & Breakfast – 87 Brauerstrasse; 011-41-078-661-8374;; relaxed bed-&-breakfast; 8 individually decorated rooms with colorful accents offer free Wi-Fi & cable TV; some rooms have sitting areas &/or balconies; cooked breakfast is served in bright dining area; communal kitchen.
Greulich Hotel – 56 Herman-Greulich-Strasse; 011-41-043-243-4243;; full service, boutique hotel with contemporary design; 18 rooms surround quiet, tree-shaded courtyard.
Hotel Helvetia – 1 Stauffacherquai; 011-41-044-297-9999;; 16 smallish rooms; bright & stylish; ask for room with Sihl River view; in 1930s, meeting place for Communists & other agitators.

7 Kreis (East of Altstadt)
Dolder Grand – 65 Kurhausstrasse (on on Zürichberg); 011-41-044-456-6000;; castle-like hotel opened in 1899; Belle Epoque landmark; within city limits but out of mainstream; on hill overlooking downtown & Lake Zürich; 2 restaurants; all rooms in new wing have balconies, some overlook forest & Lake Zürich; huge bathrooms; prohibitively expensive.

8 Kreis (Riesbach)
Hotel Opera – 5 Dufourstrasse; 011-41-044-258-9999;; centrally located; casual rooms have traditional furnishings & contemporary bathrooms; some have balconies; room service; on-site restaurant specializes in fish dishes & features surrealistic, Baroque-style walls & ceiling murals depicting opera scenes; elegant chandelier-lit lobby & access to lake-view rooftop terrace at partner hotel across street.

Radisson Blu – Rondellstrasse (at Zürich Airport, Terminal 1); 011-41-044-800-4040;; cutting-edge design & high tech amenities; 330 rooms; can wheel luggage directly to airline ticket counter.

1 Kreis (Altstadt)
Restaurant Bärengasse – 25 Bahnhofstrasse; 011-41-044-210-0808;; steak & entrecote from Argentine beef, plus seafood, in high-ceilinged former banking hall.
Ristorante Bindella – 6 In Gassen; 011-41-044-221-2546;; Italian; in elegant space with chandeliers plus terrace.
Hiltl – 28 Sihlstrasse; 011-41-044-227-7000;; huge vegetarian restaurant open since 1898 with outdoor patio seating; buffet priced by weight.
Restaurant Kronenhalle – 4 Rämistrasse; 011-41-044-262-9900;; Bavarian, French & Swiss classics, under works by Braque, Miro & Picasso; Calatrava’s favorite restaurant; drinks at bar in mid-afternoon are must.
Metropol Restaurant & Café/Bar – 12 Fraumuensterstrasse; 011-41-044-200-5900;; beautiful outdoor seating (weather permitting) & indoor seating in impressive, neo-Baroque banking building; Asian & Mediterranean cuisine.
Sternen Grill – 22 Theaterstrasse; 011-41-043-268-2080;; city’s most famous sausage grill since 1963; informal; housemade mustard is made with horseradish so it’s extra hot; take out on ground floor is where Zürich gets its bratwurst; can also get grilled chicken & French fries; on 1st floor can grab seat on balcony; some simple Swiss dishes.

4 Kreis (Aussersihl)
Restaurant Café Boy – 2 Kochstrasse; 011-41-044-240-4024;; once left-wing political activist haunt; restaurateur Stefan Iseli’s Café Boy now serves up fresh, traditional cuisine of his partner Jann M. Hoffmann in lively, minimalist bistro setting; extensive wine list; simpler menu at lunchtimes.
EquiTable im Sankt Meinrad – 163 Stauffacherstrasse; 011-41-043-534-8277;; 1 Michelin star; kitchen team under Fabian Fuchs uses nothing but best ingredients in good modern cuisine; whole experience rounded off by friendly service & informal atmosphere.
Restaurant Helvetia – 1 Stauffacherquai (at Hotel Helvetia); 011-41-044-297-9999;; wooden floors & panelling & warm, welcoming atmosphere; friendly & straightforward front-of-house style; try filet of pata negra pork; excellent pot au feu with veal.
Restaurant Volkshaus – 60 Stauffacherstrasse; 011-41-044-242-1155;; founded in 1910 & looks like grand restaurant from half century ago now gone to seed; art world hangout; meat-heavy dishes, like pork cordon bleu with lemon-infused mashed potatoes; better than average food.

5 Kreis (Industriequartier)
LaSalle – 4 Schiffbaustrasse; 011-41-044-258-7071;; avant-garde restaurant is something of architectural marvel — encased within large glass cube that, in turn, is inside Schiffbrau (brick shipbuilding from 1880s, now among city’s leading arts centers; brick walls, bolts, rivets & massive steel girders of former factory are pivotal to whole design, counterbalancing restaurants’s vast glass expanses & sleek, minimalist interior; seasonal cuisine is predominantly French & Italian; reservations highly recommended.
Restaurant Markthalle – 231 Limmatstrasse; 011-41-044-201-0060;; casual; homey, meat-centric meals for creative types & dot-com-ers; signature dish is veal meatballs; sandwiched between markets & shops of Zürich’s trendy Viadukt shopping strip, this is convenient pit stop for lunch, dinner or snack; menu features soups, salads, fish & meat dishes, cheese platters & breakfast & lunch specials.
Riffraff – 57-63 Neugasse; 011-41-044-444-2200;; 100-year-old venue with 4 movie halls for international films, plus popular bar & intimate bistro.
Rosso – 31 Geroldstrasse; 011-41-043-818-2254;; Zürich’s best thin-crust pizza; housed in former warehouse; weather permitting, 3 outdoor terraces; also serves excellent pastas; fair-middling service.
Restaurant Viadukt – 69-71 Viaduktstrasse; 011-41-043-204-1899;; operated by youth job training program; live bands; modern menu.

6 Kreis (North of Altstadt)
Clouds – 5 Maagplatz (atop Prime Tower, Switzerland’s tallest building); 011-41-044-404-3000;; try delicate raviolone stuffed with buffalo ricotta & perfectly runny egg &/or sautéed pike-perch with smoked-almond-crusted potatoes; stunning Lake Zürich backdrop with snow-capped Glarus Alps beyond.
Mesa Restaurant – 75 Weinbergstrasse; 011-41-043-321-7575;; 1 Michelin star; hours-long tasting menu; reservations must be made 2-3 weeks in advance; try fried venison with duck liver & pumpkin emulsion or braised rabbit ragu with pomegranate sauce.

7 Kreis (East of Altstadt)
Restaurant Dolder Grand – 65 Kurhausstrasse (at Dolder Grand Hotel); 011-41-044-456-6000;; 2 Michelin stars; intense cuisine presented in well-matched, creative combinations with top quality products combined with flair & skill; lunchtime taster menu offers guests chance to sample interesting cross-section of dishes from main menu; stylish decor inside & stunning terrace with fantastic view outside.

8 Kreis (Riesbach)
Blaue Ente – 223 Seefeldstrasse; 011-41-044-388-6840;; historic industrial architecture outside; lively, trendy atmosphere (& some fine old machinery) inside; service is attentive & straightforward while flavorsome food is made using local produce; flour comes from restaurant’s own mill next door; there is more ambitious evening menu.

1 Kreis (Altstadt)
Glacier Express – Passage Bahnhofstrasse; 011-41-044-212-3720; or; train that runs from Zürich to Geneva, through Alps; spine-tingling.

2 Kreis (West of Lake Zürich)
Thermalbad & Spa – 150 Brandschenkestrasse (can stay at B2 Boutique Hotel & use spa at discount); 011-41-044-205-9650;; view over city from rooftop pool is amazing; also can relax in basement wooden tubs &/or enjoy Irish-Roman spa (shallow pools & steam baths).

1 Kreis (Altstadt)
Cabaret Voltaire – 1 Spiegelgasse; 011-41-043-268-5720;; avant-garde art exhibits, live jazz, plus hip cafe/bar in Dadaism’s quirky & spiritual home (1916).
Confiserie Sprungli Café – 21 Bahnhofstrasse; 011-41-044-224-4646;; Zürich’s premier chocolatier.
Limited Stock – 22 Spiegelgasse; 011-41-043-268-5620;; design store that sells beautiful things to sweeten your life & rare objects you simply have to have; in former locksmith’s workshop, find items such as beautifully decorated Nymphenburg porcelain or Japanese knives & scissors.
On y Va – 15 Zähringerplatz; 011-41-043-343-9121;; men’s clothing.
Teuscher’s – 46 Bahnhofstrasse; 011-41-044-211-1390;; chocolates.
Teuscher’s – 9 Storchengasse; 011-41-044-211-5153;; chocolates.
Thema Selection – 16 Spiegelgasse; 011-41-044-261-7842;; bright space with tiled floors & frescoed ceilings; women’s fashions.
Vestibule – 20 St. Peterstrasse; 011-41-044-260-1331;; hip women’s clothing & accessories.

3 Kreis (Wiedikon)
Bord GmbH Design Furniture – 74 Weststrasse; 011-41-043-243-6911;; midcentury modern furniture alongside up & coming designers.

4 Kreis (Aussersihl)
Claudia Groeflin Galerie – 12 Dienerstrasse; 011-41-043-243-3923;; art.
Making Things – 20 Grüngasse; 011-41-043-243-3188;; accessories & clothing; odds & ends.
Street Files Studio – 156 Badenerstrasse; 011-41-044-221-9977;; funky t-shirts & skateboard clothing.
Zwei 25 – 25 Zweierstrasse; 011-41-044-241-0234;; designer clothing & homewares.

5 Kreis (Industriequartier)
Beige Swiss Styling – 10 Josefstrasse; 011-41-044-272-7422;; knitwear, as well as knit home accessories.
Buchhandlung Sec52 – 52 Josefstrasse (5 Kreis [Industriequartier]); 011-41-044-271-1818;; terrific, independent bookstore.
Einzigart – 36 Josefstrasse; 011-41-044-440-4600;; bric-a-brac; concept store that focuses on useful things in life, ranging from pretty coat hangers to good kitchen towels.
Freitag Bag Store – 17 Geroldstrasse; 011-41-043-366-9520;; stylish bags sold in building constructed from abandoned shipping container.
Galerie Bob van Orsouw – 270 Limmatstrasse; 011-41-044-273-1100;; blue-chip art gallery.
Hauser & Wirth – 270 Limmatstrasse; 011-41-044-446-8050;; blue-chip art gallery.
Melvins – 26 Josefstrasse; 011-41-044-440-1144;; Danish & Swiss clothing.
Riffraff – 57-63 Neugasse; 011-41-044-444-2200;; 100-year-old venue with 4 movie halls for international films, plus popular bar & intimate bistro.
Swallow-D – 12 Josefstrasse; 011-41-043-542-0434;; Tamara Rist-designed handbags.

1 Kreis (Altstadt)
Cabaret Voltaire – 1 Spiegelgasse; 011-41-043-268-5720;; avant-garde art exhibits, live jazz, plus hip cafe/bar in Dadaism’s quirky & spiritual home (1916).
Fraumünster Church – Fraumünsterstrasse; 011-41-044-221-2063;; windows by Marc Chagall.
Grossmünster Church – Grossmünsterplatz; 011-41-044-252-5949;; founded by Charlemagne in 9th Century (but heavily reworked since); twin-towered landmark cathedral sits directly across river from Fraumünster; interior showcases stained-glass work by Augusto Giacometti; for nice views, climb southern tower, Karlsturm; firebrand preacher Huldrych Zwingli (1484-1531) began speaking out against Catholic Church here in 16th Century & thus brought Reformation to Zürich; Zwingli’s house, where he lived & worked, is nearby.
Kreis 1 –; encompasses entire historical city before 1893 (before incorporation of what are now Districts 2-12 into municipality); Altstadt approximately corresponds to area enclosed by former city ramparts; administratively, District 1 divided into 4 parts (quarters): Rathaus (town hall); Hochschulen (universities); Lindenhof (“lime trees courtyard”); & City; Lindenhof & Rathaus correspond to parts of medieval city left (west) & right (east) of Limmat, respectively, while City & Hochschulen include area of early Modern city east & west of medieval walls; Zürich’s gorgeously preserved, medieval & 20th Century city center; walk south along Limmat River’s south bank, dipping into twisting lanes to window shop; hike up to Lindenhof (former Roman customs house site); overlook water & Alps.
Stadelhofen Railway Station – 8 Stadelhoferstrasse; 011-41-044-260-2606 or 011-41-090-030-0300;; rebuilt in 1990s by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava; 1894 station building preserved & surroundings completely redone in modern art twist; both station building & platforms inscribed on Swiss Inventory of Cultural Property of National Significance.
Official Residence of Huldrych Zwingli – 13 Kirchgasse; 011-044-250-6600;; house where Huldrych Zwingli (1484-1531) lived & worked; Zwingli began speaking out against Catholic Church here in 16th Century & thus brought Reformation to Zürich.

2 Kreis (West of Lake Zürich)
Museum Rietberg Zürich – 15 Gablerstrasse; 011-41-044-415-3131;; impressive collection African, American, Asian & Oceanian art; only non-European culture art museum in Switzerland.
Rieterpark – 15 Gablerstrasse; 011-41-044-412-2405;; where Wagner wrote Tristan und Isolde; make sure to see Villa Wesendonck, where Wagner carried on torrid affair with his patron’s wife.
Tonhalle-Orchestra Zürich – 5 Claridenstrasse; 011-41-044-206-3636;; classical ballet, music & opera hall.

4 Kreis (Aussersihl)
Xenix – 52 Kanzleistrasse; 011-41-044-242-0411;; small, independent film cinema; great bar; during summer, outdoor movies at lake.
Zürich Opera House – 1 Falkenstrasse; 011-41-044-268-6666;; classical ballet, music & opera hall; classic European jewel box of building.

5 Kreis (Industriequartier)
Im Viadukt – Viaduktstrasse; 011-41-044-412-8393;; 50 vendors; cuts striking swath through neighborhood; beneath century-old stone railway arches.
Kunsthalle Zürich – 270 Limmatstrasse; 011-41-044-272-1515;; contemporary art museum.
Löwenbräu-Areal – 268 Limmatstrasse; 011-41-044-307-7900;; coverted Löwenbräu brewery building that contains several art galleries; lobby has excellent art bookstore.
Migros Museum of Contemporary Art – 270 Limmatstrasse; 011-41-044-277-2050;; known for conceptual art.

6 Kreis (North of Altstadt)
Flussbad Oberer Letten – 10 Lettensteg; 011-41-044-362-9200;; laid-back, anti-urban, riverside oasis in city’s center; wooden terraces & grass squares, cafes & small beer gardens.

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