Saturday, July 30, 2011

PALM SPRINGS

(includes Cabazon, Desert Hot Springs, Indian Wells, Indio, Joshua Tree (which, in turn, includes Landers, Pioneertown, Twentynine Palms, Westmorland & Wonder Valley) & La Quinta)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Hadley Fruit Orchards – 47993 Morongo Trail (Cabazon); 951-849-5255;hadleyfruitorchards.com; great date shake.
Shields Date Garden – 80225 California Highway 111 (Indio); 760-775-0902; shieldsdategarden.com; includes cafe, date tree garden full of biblical statuary & demonstrations; great date shake.
Westmorland Date Shake – 119 West Main Street (Westmoreland); 760-550-4404; facebook.com/Westmorland-Date-Shake-Pizza-1382130578758651; great date shake & pizza.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Ace Hotel Bar – 701 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-325-9900; acehotel.com.
Ingleside Inn – 200 West Ramon Road; 760-325-2323; dancing and music at piano bar every night; old-school style.
Melvyn’s Restaurant & Lounge – 200 West Ramon Road; 760- 325-2323; inglesideinn.com; in hotel’s secluded gardens; fully restored 1895 carved oak and mahogany bar.
Palms Bar & Restaurant – 83131 Amboy Road (Twentynine Palms); 760-361-2810; palmswv.com; scratched pool tables and country-western juke box.
Pappy & Harriet’s – 53688 Pioneertown Road (Pioneertown); 760-365-5956; pappyandharriets.com; live music under stars.
Torme’s – 360 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-1773; tormespalmsprings.com; owned by Mel Torme’s daughter; live music.



HOTELS
Ace Hotel & Swim Club – 701 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-325-9900; acehotel.com; part of avant garde chain; loud, hipster haven; clean, quirky; great pool and bar.
Chateau at Lake la Quinta – 78-120 Caleo Bay Drive (La Quinta); 760-564-7332 or 888-226-4546; thechateaulakelaquinta.com; exclusive boutique hotel.
Colony Palms Hotel – 572 North Indian Canyon Drive; 760-969-1800 or 800-557-2187; colonypalmshotel.com; home to 1930s brothel and speakeasy; fully renovated in 2008; Spanish colonial hotel has 56 guest rooms with bright, Moroccan-inspired interiors; hibiscus-filled courtyard and pool; Moroccan spa; poolside restaurant among Palm Springs’ best.
Circle C Lodge – 6340 El Rey Avenue (Twentynine Palms); 760-367-7615; circleclodge.com; nice, old-school motel with pool and spacious rooms.
Harmony Motel – 71161 Twentynine Palms Highway (Twentynine Palms); 760-367-3351; harmonymotel.com; where U2 stayed when they were recording “Joshua Tree”; affordable, simple rooms for 1-2.
Hotel Lautner – 67710 San Antonio Street (Desert Hot Springs); 760-832-5288; hotellautner.com; inspired 4-module complex made of concrete, glass, redwood, and steel; worth special trip.
Ingleside Inn – 200 West Ramon Road; 760-325-0046 or 800-772-6655; inglesideinn.com; quiet desert resort retreat near Palm Springs’ historic village; built in 1920s in Spanish style; 30 rooms; 2 acre former estate; pool; restaurant.
Korakia Pensione – 257 South Patencio Road; 760-864-6411; korakia.com; blends Tangier with Mediterranean; begin day with complimentary full-cooked breakfast in Moroccan courtyard; heated pool; spa; library; complimentary bicycles; Moroccan tea service; lanterns and fire-pits; classic and foreign films on screen.
Miramonte Resort & Spa – 45000 Indian Wells Lane (Indian Wells); 760-341-2200 or 800-237-2926; miramonteresort.com.
Mojave Sands Hotel – 62121 Twentynine Palms Highway (Joshua Tree); 760-974-9420; mojavesands.com; beautifully renovated, mid-century modern; no television.
Orbit In – 562 West Arenas Road; 760-323-3585 or 877-996-7248; orbitin.com; campy and modern.
Parker Palm Springs – 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-770-5000 or 800-543-4300; theparkerpalmsprings.com; on 13-acre estate with 4 pools.
Pretty Vacant Properties – Joshua Tree; prettyvacantproperties.com; 2 units (Rosa Muerta & Acido Dorado); 2 custom-made, architectural experiments (by architect Robert Stone); gorgeous.
Ritz Carlton Rancho Mirage – 68900 Frank Sinatra Drive; 760-321-8282 or 800-241-3333; ritzcarlton.com; state-of-art spa; of 244 rooms, 26 of 79 on 1st floor have private, fire-pit equipped patios.
Riviera Resort & Spa – 1600 North Indian Canyon Drive; 760-327-8311 or 866-588-8311; psriviera.com; some original rooms still have marble-clad bathrooms and zebra-wood accents; otherwise, dumpy.
Saguaro Palm Springs – 1800 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-323-1711; thesaguaro.com; transformed holiday inn.
Sakura Bed & Breakfast Inn – 1677 North Via Miraleste; 760-327-0705; sakurabedandbreakfast.com; ryokan-like bed & breakfast.
Spin & Margie’s Desert Hideaway – 6920-6923 Sunkist Road (Joshua Tree); 760-366-9124; deserthideaway.com; hacienda-style inn with 4 tricked-out suites, decorated with hippie, Mexican, and Wild West stuff.
Spring Resort & Spa – 12699 Reposo Way (Desert Hot Springs); 760-251-6700; the-spring.com; boutique.
Twentynine Palms Inn – 73950 Inn Avenue (Twentynine Palms); 760-367-3505; 29palmsinn.com; classic historic desert retreat featuring real oasis, private courtyard cabins, poolside cocktails, and restaurant.
Two Bunch Palms Resort – 67425 Two Bunch Palms Trail (Desert Hot Springs); 760-288-7803 or 800-472-4334; twobunchpalms.com; low key, whisper resort on natural hot springs; movie The Player filmed here.
Viceroy – 415 South Belardo Drive; 760-320-4117 or 800-439-3719; korhotels.hotelsathome.com; glamorous but low-key.
Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn – 412 Tahquitz Canyon Way; 760-320-0771; thewillowspalmsprings.com; 8-bedroom, Mediterranean villa; Albert Einstein frequently visited; Clark Gable and Carole Lombard stayed on their honeymoon; rooms filled with antiques; room service from Le Vallauris, across street.



RESTAURANTS
Birba – 622 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-5678; birbapalmsprings.com; beer and pizza.
Cactusberry – 116 La Plaza Street; 760-325-3228; frozen yoghurt.
Cheeky’s Restaurant – 622 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-7595; cheekysps.com; market-driven dishes based on local ingredients.
Copley’s on Palm Canyon – 621 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-9555; copleyspalmsprings.com; classic stand-by; part of Cary Grant’s former home; elegant outdoor terrace.
Crossroads Cafe & Tavern – 61715 Route 62 (Joshua Tree, on Twentynine Palms Highway); 760-366-5414; crossroadscafejtree.com; hearty breakfasts and lunches; also serves dinner; open 7 am-9 pm.
J.T. Country Kitchen Restaurant – 61768 Twentynine Palms Highway (Joshua Tree); 760-366-8988; countrykitchenrestaurants.com; breakfast stop.
Jiao – 515 North Palm Canyon Drive, Suite B10; 760-321-1424; facebook.com/jiaops; operated by Cheeky's owners; twists on Asian dishes; art installations.
Ristorante Mamma Gina – 73-705 El Paseo (Palm Desert); 760-568-9898; mammagina; since 1956; genuine Italian.
Melvyn’s Restaurant & Lounge – 200 West Ramon Road; 760- 325-2323; inglesideinn.com; in hotel’s secluded gardens; fully restored 1895 carved oak and mahogany bar; numerous antiques, waiters in linen jackets and photographs from long ago; try Veal Ingleside.
Mr. Parker – 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-321-4629; misterparkers.com; French cuisine in upscale environment.
Norma’s – 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive (at Parker); 760-770-5000; theparkerpalmsprings.com; interior by Jonathan Adler.
Palms Bar & Restaurant – 83131 Amboy Road (Twentynine Palms); 760-361-2810; palmswv.com; scratched pool tables and country-western juke box.
Pappy & Harriet’s – 53688 Pioneertown Road (Pioneertown); 760-365-5956; pappyandharriets.com; barbecue.
Purple Palm – 572 North Indian Canyon Drive (at Colony Palms Hotel); 760-969-1800; colonypalmshotel.com; poolside restaurant among Palm Springs’ best.
Spencer’s Restaurant – 701 West Baristo Road; 760-327-3446; spencersrestaurant.com; classic stand-by; 7 kinds eggs Benedict and/or crab cakes and filet mignon.
Torme’s – 360 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-1773; tormespalmsprings.com; owned by Mel Torme’s daughter; food and live music.
Trio – 707 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-864-8746; triopalmsprings.com; popular with singles.
Le Vallauris – 385 West Tahquitz Canyon Way; 760-325-5059 or 888-525-5852; levallauris.com; French.



SERVICES
Cliffhanger Guides – 61707 Twentynine Palms Highway (Joshua Tree); 209-743-8363; cliffhangerguides.com; smallest rock climbing guide service in Joshua Tree National Park.
Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School – 63439 Doggie Trail (Joshua Tree); 760-366-4745; joshuatreerockclimbing.com.
Joshua Tree Uprising Adventures – 61695 Twentynine Palms Highway (Joshua Tree); 760-366-3600 or 888-254-6266; joshuatreeuprising.com; rock climbing.
Modern Tour – Michael Stern; 706-904-0904; themoderntour.com; private tour of some of Palm Springs’ most fabulous architectural treasures & homes, conducted by Michael Stern, author of works on Palm Springs modern style.
Palm Springs Modern Tours – Robert Imber; 760-318-6118; palmspringsmoderntours.com; book tour with design tour to see most iconic structures.
Palm Springs Yacht Club – 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-770-5000; theparkerpalmsprings.com; spa with coed relaxation area, saline pool, 2 whirlpools, and candle-lit nap room.
Spa Resort Casino – 401 East Amado Road; 760-883-1000 or 888-999-1995; sparesortcasino.com; mineral waters spa.
Vertical Adventures – Joshua Tree National Park; 949-854-6250 or 800-514-8785; vertical-adventures.com; rock climbing.



SHOPPING
Christopher Anthony, Ltd. – 800 North Palm Canyon Drive, Suite F; 760-322-0600; christopheranthonyltd.com; new and old home furnishings.
Art Style Innovation – 668 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-322-3344; artstyleinnovation.com; home accessories and furniture; run by Hollywood event planners.
Boulevard – 800 North Palm Canyon Drive, Suite A; 760-832-9011; boulevardps.com; co-owned by Oscar-nominated set decorator; new and vintage furniture.
Dazzles – 1035 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-1446; period, faux jewelry (Bakelite); also, furnishings.
Desert Art Gallery – Twentynine Palms; 760-361-2305; desertartstudio.com; muralist-painter Chuck Caplinger runs this gallery exhibiting semi-psychedelic desert ephemera and paintings; by appointment only.
Dwight Polen – 756 North Palm Canyon; 760-318-7227; Chinese antiques.
Elizabeth & Prince – 73470 El Paseo, Suite F3 (Palm Desert); 760-773-3500; elizabethandprince.com; youthful resort wear (bathing suits and casual indie labels).
Estate Sale Company – 4185 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-321-7628; vintage jewelry, especially.
House 849 – 849 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-325-7854; house849.com; contemporary and modern furnishings.
Insolito – 901 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-605-4814; insolitohome.com; innovative furniture and home accessories.
Michael H. Lord Gallery – 1090 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-699-8957; michaelhlordgallery.com.
Modern Way – 745 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-320-5455; psmodernway.com; uber modern, ‘60s furnishings.
Mr. Cox – 457 North Palm Canyon Drive, Suite 6 (at Galleria); 760-898-6443; mrcoxps.com; vintage boutique.
111 Antique Mall – 2500 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-864-9390; info111mall.com.
J. Randolph Interiors – 1068 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-409-8962; tiny shop with antiques and home accessories.
Retrospect – 666 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-413-1766; old and new home furnishings.
Route 66 West – 465 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-322-6669; route66west.com; vintage costume jewelry.
Savage Archdeacon – 644 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-673-7520; savageps.com; gallery and studio.
Studio III – 2675 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-323-5104; high end, ‘60s furnishings.
Trina Turk Boutique – 891 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-416-2856; trinaturk.com; not vintage; bright modern clothing.
Trina Turk Residential – 895 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-416-2856; trinaturk.com; home accessories.
20 First Modern & Vintage – 1117 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-5400; ’30-’60s California modern furnishings.



SIGHTS & SITES
Gene Autry Statue – Gene Autry Plaza (Gene Autry Trail & Ramon Road); autry.com; 7' bronze sculpture; depicts Autry singing and strumming guitar circa-1940; called Gene Autry: America’s Favorite Singing Cowboy; created by Canadian sculptor De L’Esprie.
Back Street Art District – South Cherokee Way (across from Parker Hotel); backstreetartdistrict.com; dozen artist-owned galleries and studios.
Eichler Home – 800 East Bogert Trail; deserteichler.com; 1950-1974, Eichler Homes built over 11K homes in 9 Northern California & 3 Southern California communities; once gigantic budget items but, now, Desert Eichler Homes is trying to change that by building houses like this one.
Elrod House – 2175 Southridge Drive; en.wikiarquitectura.com/building/elrod-house; residence designed by American architect John Lautner & constructed in 1968; construction ordered by Arthur Elrod, interior designer; among most famous structures by Lautner; example of his so-called free architecture, where architecture & nature are combined; when house built, soil excavated rocks kept in place; these rocks are part of house interior & run straight through walls & windows; best-known feature is large circular concrete canopy above main living area with circular glass design; living room incorporates large rocks & opens onto to outdoor swimming pool & terrace with view over Palm Springs & San Jacinto Peak; Elrod House’s most notable appearance was as Willard Whyte’s mansion in Diamonds Are Forever.
Lucille Ball Statue – 100 North Palm Canyon Drive; autry.com; Bronze Lucy sits on bench, ready for photo op; does not look much like Lucy.
Bank of America Building – 588 South Palm Canyon Drive; 760-340-1867; loc.gov/pictures/item/2010630388/; originally City National Bank; inspired by Le Corbusier’s chapel in Ronchamp, France; designed by Victor Gruen Associates and built in 1959.
Beauty Bubble Salon & Museum – Wonder Valley; 760-361-5617; in private home; by appointment; awe-inspiring hair museum.
Ecoshack – Joshua Tree; 323-646-5375; ecoshack.com; architectural design lab where prototypes demonstrated by appointment.
HDTS Headquarters – 6470 Veterans Way (Joshua Tree, Headquarters); 310-276-5424; highdeserttestsites.com; annual art invitational where artists descend on Joshua Tree and install large artworks in desert; to get to actual installations, take Highway 62 (Twentynine Palms Highway) east towards Twentynine Palms; sites are located between Yucca Valley and Wonder Valley.
iT House – Pioneertown; 213-380-1060; tkarchitecture.com; designed by Taalman Koch Architecture, firm behind Dia: Beacon (Dutchess County, NY); prefabricated glass house open for tours (Fall 2012).
Integratron – 2477 Belfield Boulevard (Landers); 760-364-3126; integratron.com; George Van Tassel’s creation, based on Moses’ Tabernacle design, Nikola Tesla’s writings, and extraterrestrials’ telepathic directions; now used as rejuvenation and time machine; only all-wood, acoustically perfect sound chamber in US.
Joshua Tree National Park – 74485 National Park Drive (Twentynine Palms); 760-367-5525; nps.gov/jotr; US National Monument since 1936; named for Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia) forests native to park; covers 1.25K square miles (area slightly larger than Rhode Island), large part is designated wilderness area; park includes 2 deserts, each ecosystem whose characteristics are determined primarily by elevation: higher Mojave Desert and lower Colorado Desert; Little San Bernardino Mountains run through park’s southwest edge; 7 miles from south entrance is Cottonwood Spring, pair of oases with tremendous bird life; great rock-climbing, easiest being Eye on Cyclops Rock.
Marilyn Monroe Statue – West Tahquitz Canyon Way (West Tahquitz Canyon Way & North Palm Canyon Drive (Highway 111) intersection); 26' statue straddles fake subway grate; Seward Johnson move-it-around-until-someone-buys-it creation, but good one.
Murtle Turtle – Twentynine Palms Highway (Joshua Tree, on Highway 62); iconic turtle statue.
Palevsky House – 1021 West Cielo Drive (Little Tuscany); starkly modern and worth special trip.
Palm Springs Art Museum – 101 North Museum Drive; 760-322-4800; psmuseum.org; open since 1938; modern art and temporary exhibits.
Noah Purifoy Museum – Blair Lane (Joshua Tree); 213-382-7516; noahpurifoy.com; outdoor art installations (made from junk) by Watts Towers’ artist; by appointment.
St. Theresa Catholic Church – 2800 East Ramon Road; 760-323-2669; sttheresaps.com; mid-20th Century architecture.
Sono Bono Statue – Mercado Plaza (149 South Palm Canyon Drive); bronze, grinning statue sits on fountain edge; depicts older, Palm-Springs-Mayor-Sonny, not younger, I-Got-You-Babe-Sonny.

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