Sunday, November 18, 2012

SUDAN

AL DABBAH
Sights & Sites
Old Dongola – near Wadi Al-Malik (east bank of Nile River, opposite); deserted town, once important medieval city and departure point for caravans west to Darfur and Kordofan; from 4th-14th Century, Makurian state capital.

KHARTOUM & OMDURMAN
Hotels
Acropole Khartoum Hotel – Zubeir Pasha Street (Khartoum); 011-249-18-377-2860; www.acropolekhartoum.com; journalists’ 1st choice; reeks of intrigue.
Bougainvilla Guesthouse – House 339, Block 21 (Khartoum); 011-249-18-322-2104; bougainvillaguesthouse.com; Norwegian-owned; clean, with rooftop bar and restaurant.
Corinthia Hotel Khartoum – Nile Street (Khartoum); 011-249-18-715-5555; www.corinthia.com/en/Khartoum.
Restaurants
Askela – Nile Street (Khartoum, opposite Friendship Hall); riverside location, across from National Museum; lots of fish; wonderful place for evening drink.
Havana – Mashtal Street (Khartoum, Riyadh); 011-249-18-325-3500; Lebanese; where expats eat.
Little India – Street 41, Plot 47 (Khartoum); 011-249-91-230-6543; Indian, Thai, and continental.
Sights & Sites
Al Mogran Family Park – between Al Imam Al Mahdi & Nile Streets (Khartoum, 3-4 kms west of Presidential Palace); rcdb.com/5097.htm; Blue-White Nile Confluence (called Al-Mogran) best seen from metal bridge (old one, not newer, concrete one) linking Khartoum and Omdurman; NO PHOTOS from bridge.
Al-Shifa Pharmaceutical Factory – Bahri (north Khartoum); Tomahawked in 1998; quite easy to reach (minibus to Bahri, then taxi); guards are quite friendly and will let you in for wander; contribution gratefully received.
Blue Nile Sailing Club – Khartoum; gray-colored boat onshore about 50m from Nile River banks is El Malik, formerly one of Kitchener’s gunboats (served in Battle of Omdurman); after retiring from government service, handed over to Blue Nile Sailing Club and used as its headquarters; still operational clubhouse where can hire small boats to cruise or sail along Blue Nile.
Camel Market – Souk Moowaileh (Omdurman).
Ethnographic Museum – Al Gamaa Street (Khartoum, at Mak Nemir Avenue); fascinating, little museum.
Khalifa’s House – Omdurman; Abdullah al-Taaisha, also known as Khalifa, succeeded as Mahdist leader on Mahdi’s death; his house is now museum; exhibits include various remnants from old battles and some interesting old British newspaper clippings reporting British efforts in Sudan.
National Museum – Nile Street (Khartoum); dwarfed by modern buildings nearby; fine exhibits in dusty halls, most notably pharaonic stone carvings and stunning Nubian Christian frescoes; museum gardens also house several Kushite and Egyptian temples saved during Aswan Dam construction.
Nile Street (Shari’a Al-Nil) – Khartoum; prettiest street, with Blue Nile on one side; lined with pretty, albeit decaying-looking, colonial buildings, most of which are used as ministries, schools and even hotel (Grand Holiday Villa Khartoum); tree-lined most of way (except towards west); sidewalk.
Nuba Wrestling – Bahri (Khartoum, north, next to Souk Sita Al Haj Yousef); every Friday at 4pm; 2 wrestler teams battle it out; spectacle well worth trip.
Omdurman Souk – Omdurman; among Africa’s largest markets; handicraft street is quite difficult to find (towards northern end, near gold section and not on western side); street is actually covered lane between 2 buildings with gates at either end.
Presidential Palace Museum – Al Gamaa Street (Khartoum); housed in impressive, century-old Palace Cathedral; from paintings of Sir Gordon Pasha to more recent ruler’s Presidential cars.
Sheikh Hamad El Nil Tomb – Omdurman (2 kms south of Omdurman Souk); www.sudan-embassy.de/Mosques.pdf; constructed in 1936; sufi dancing around 4-5 p.m.

MEROƋ
Hotels
Tented Camp – Bagarwyia; www.imagineafrica.co.uk/Sudan/Sudan_Accommodation/Meroe_Tented_Camp,_Sudan.html.
Sights & Sites
Royal Cemetery – Begarawiyah; www.shsu.edu/~his_ncp/Sudan.html; among Sudan’s most spectacular sights; Meroitic pharaohs thrived from 592 BCE until overrun by Abyssinians in 350; narrow pyramid clusters blanket sand-swept hills; some well-preserved hieroglyphics can still be seen in tombs’ antechambers.

NAGA
Sights & Sites
Amun & Apedemak Temples – Naga; www.ancientsudan.org/meroe_gallery/index.htm; ancient Egpytian-Meroitic temples.

Tuesday, November 6, 2012

AMALFI COAST

(includes Atrani, Cameroata, Capaccio Paestum, Conca dei Marini, Maiori, Massicelle, Nerano, Ogliastro Cilento, Palinuro, Pisciotta, Positano, Punta Licosa, Punta Quaglia, Ravello, San Giovanni a Piro, Santa Maria di Castellabate, Scario & Vallo della Lucania)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Pasticceria Pansa – 40 Piazza Duomo (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1065; pasticceriapansa.it.
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832; facebook.com/pages/Ristorante-PerBacco/134309859954252; on beach; coffee.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Enoteca Osteria Perbacco – 5 Contrada Marina Campagna (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3889; perbacco.it; wine bar with sea views.
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832; facebook.com/pages/Ristorante-PerBacco/134309859954252; on beach.
Ristorante K – Piazza Giusepe Comunale (San Marco di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-6394; ristorantekcilento.com.



BEACHES
Arco Naturale – Palinuro (outside center, towards Marina di Camerota); compound rock/sandy beach famous for natural arch that encloses one little bearch.
Buondormire Beach – Palinuro (at head); reachable only by boat; has cape’s clearest water and finest sand; encircled from peak to reef.
Marinella Beach – Palinuro (at Lambro River’s end, reached by long stair in rocks that arrives to beach from Palinuro Cape’s top); sand is white and very soft; incomparable vies (can see coast until Marina di Camerota); in summer, can rent beach umbrellas and equipment directly on the beach.



DIVES
Cathedral – Palinuro; large cavities submerged with 4 air domes.
Grotta Azzurra (Blue Cave) – Punta Quaglia (trail to cave crosses); 2 underwater entrances; maximum depth is 33 ms.
Sala della Neve (Hall of Snow) – Palinuro; 26 x 45 ms; on floor, area with 3 depressions, from one of which arises sulphur spring (clearly visible, discharge creates snowfall effect).



HOTELS
La Conca del Sogna – 9 Via San Marciano (Nerano); 011-39-081-808-1036; concadelsogno.it; more of bed & breakfast with 6 comfortable rooms.
Locanda San Fantino – 8 Via San Fantino (Scario); 011-39-97-498-3442; sanfantino.com; rustic farmhouse available for rent or as B&B; dizzying views; nicest bedrooms upstairs; landowner Sebastiano Petrilli offers cooking and hiking services, including seeking 70 different types wild orchids that grow on nearby Mount Cervati; simple; use as base to swim in Bussento River.
Marulivo Hotel – Via Castello (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3792; marulivohotel.it; converted monastery; vertiginous veranda series with rooms attached; high above cobbled streets that are off-limits to cars.
Monastero Santa Rosa – 2 Via Roma (Conca dei Marini); 011-39-089-832-1199; monasterosantarosa.com; 17th Century convent turned hotel; 20 bedroom suites; infinity pool.
Palazzo Belmonte – 25 Via Flavio Gioia (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-0211; palazzobelmonte.com; Prince Angelo Granito Pignatelli di Belmonte’s family castle (he still lives in private wing); walled estate sheltered behind palms and umbrella pines; optimal suite is Cirtonella (in Edoardo House).
Palazzo Sasso – 28 Via San Giovanni del Toro (Ravello); 011-39-89-818-181; palazzosasso.com; former palace on Amalfi Coast; spectacular service and setting.
Il San Pietro di Positano – 2 Via Laurito; 011-39-089-875-455; ilsanpietro.it; spread over cliff ledges; dreamlike accommodations; excellent restaurant; 1st choice in Positano.
Hotel Santa Caterina – 163 Strada (Atrani); 011-39-089-871-012; hotelsantacaterina.it; on mainland across from Capri; 103 year-old hotel with breath-taking views; terraced citrus groves; additional structure, Villa il Rosso, has 4 rooms with original antiques.
Villa Cimbrone – 26 Via Santa Chiara (Ravello); 011-39-089-857-459; villacimbrone.com; featured in Trip to Italy; medieval palazzo with sumptuous suites, panoramic pool, formal gardens & most beautiful panorama; on sheer-sided spur high above sea; vie for sea-view suite; grounds are what most people come for, with long avenues of umbrella pines, fragrant rose gardens, trellises dripping with wysteria, belvedere fringed with marble busts, even pseudo-Roman temple; gourmet restaurant on poolside veranda.
Villa Serena – Punta Licosa; 011-39-97-496-0211; palazzobelmonte.com; owned by Palazzo Belmonte; villa sleeps 14; former castle hunting grounds on UNESCO-protected nature reserve; lovely.
Le Sirenuse – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo; 011-39-89-875-766; sirenuse.it; romantic with excellent restaurant.



RESTAURANTS
Ristorante Angiolina – 2 Via Passariello (Pisciotta, at Marina); 011-39-97-497-3188; ristoranteangiolina.it; where 90 year-old Nonna Angiolina still prepares and serves best fish soup this side of Naples.
La Caravella – 12 Via Mattteo Camera (Atrani); 011-39-08-987-1029; ristorantelacaravella.it; Amalfi’s best restaurant.
Ristorante da Carmine – 37 Via Provinciale (Ogliastro Cilento, at marina); 011-39-97-496-3023; albergodacarmine.it; memorable, simple pasta dishes.
Il Cefalo – Via Monsignor Passaro (Ogliastro, at Marina); 011-39-97-496-3019; ilcefalo.it; chic.
La Conca del Sogna – 9 Via San Marciano (Nerano); 011-39-081-808-1036; concadelsogno.it; tables swathed in white cloth, perched on terrace overlooking blowhole and huge stone basin of sea water in which your lunch is swimming; stay all day.
Eolo – 3 Via Pantaleone Comite (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1241; eoloamalfi.it; seafood.
Enoteca Osteria Perbacco – 5 Contrada Marina Campagna (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3889; perbacco.it; specialities include fiori di zucca con ricotta e alici (zucchini blossoms with ricotta and salted anchovies); sea views.
Ristorante K – Piazza Giusepe Comunale (San Marco di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-6394; ristorantekcilento.com; some consider best seafood on Amalfi Coast.
A’Paranzi – ½ Via Dragone (Atrani); 011-39-08-987-1840; seafood.
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832; facebook.com/pages/Ristorante-PerBacco/134309859954252; seafood; linguini with fava beans and squid is excellent; on beach.
Ristorante Pizzeria da Giggino il Pirata – 27 Via Principe Amedeo (San Giovanni a Piro); 011-39-97-498-6117; pizzeria.
Lo Scoglio – Scario; 011-39-97-498-6747; pizzeria.
La Sponda – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo (at Le Sirenuse); 011-39-89-875-766; sirenuse.it; walls decorated with bougainvillea and 450 candles.
La Tana del Lupo – Scario; 011-39-339-507-5564; simple country grills and salads.
La Torre Normanna – 4 Via Diego Tajani (Maiori); 011-39-08-987-7100; torrenormanna.net; in tower built in 1562 beautiful; seafood.
U Zifaro – 43 Via Lungomare (Scario); 011-39-97-498-6397; scariovacanze.it/zifaro.htm; some of best regional seafood.



SERVICES
Coast Lines – Piazza del Municipio (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1483 or 011-39-348-729-0275 (ask for Captain Maurizio Esposito and boat, Riva Furama); amalficoastlines.com.
Scario Beach Shuttle – Via Lungomare Guglielmo Marconi (ask at Bar Tony); will take you to beaches accessible only by water.
Spiaggia da Peppe – between Camerota & Palinuro; 011-39-347-856-5596; beach equipment (sunbeds, umbrellas) rentals.



SHOPPING
Emporio Le Sirenuse – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo; 011-39-089-875-066; emporiolesirenuse.com; eau d’Italie products.
Il Granato – Spinazzo (Capaccio Paestum); 011-39-082-872-2712; www.caseificioilgranato.it; mozzarella produced by Tenuta Vannulo dairy.
Punta Licosa Estate – 25 Via Flavio Gioia (Santa Maria di Castellabate, at Palazzo Belmonte); 011-39-97-496-0211; palazzobelmonte.com; olive oil.
Saverio Scanniello – Via Ciardelle (Massicelle); 011-39-97-495-3772; www.artescanniello.com; hand-made olive wood products.
Tenuta Vannulo – Spinazzo (Capaccio Paestum); 011-39-082-872-2712; www.caseificioilgranato.it; dairy noted for its mozzarella.



SIGHTS & SITES
Cilento & Vallo di Diano National Park – 8 Contrada Santa Caterina (Vallo della Lucania); 011-39-97-471-9911; www.cilentoediano.it/panel.html.
Gran Furor Divina Costiera di Marisa Cuomo – 14 Via G.B. Lama (Furore); 011-39-08-983-0348; granfuror.it; day tour of vineyards; note that Furore is UNESCO World Heritage site.
Marina del Cantone – day trip to small town, west of Positano (eat at Taverna del Capitano (Marina del Cantone) and Quattro Passi (same), both Michelin starred; also, Lo Scoglio (same)).
Palinuro Cape – extends into sea in pentadattilo (“hand-like”) form from Campania coast, with cliffs that fall into sea from more than 50 ms; Cape Palinuro lighthouse; rocks shelter nesting birds; 32 caves (diving), of which most popular is Grotta Azzurra (“Blue Cave”), so-called for light color on water, cave containing sulfur water source.