Sunday, November 18, 2012


Sights & Sites
Old Dongola – near Wadi Al-Malik (east bank of Nile River, opposite); deserted town, once important medieval city and departure point for caravans west to Darfur and Kordofan; from 4th-14th Century, Makurian state capital.

Acropole Khartoum Hotel – Zubeir Pasha Street (Khartoum); 011-249-18-377-2860;; journalists’ 1st choice; reeks of intrigue.
Bougainvilla Guesthouse – House 339, Block 21 (Khartoum); 011-249-18-322-2104;; Norwegian-owned; clean, with rooftop bar and restaurant.
Corinthia Hotel Khartoum – Nile Street (Khartoum); 011-249-18-715-5555;
Askela – Nile Street (Khartoum, opposite Friendship Hall); riverside location, across from National Museum; lots of fish; wonderful place for evening drink.
Havana – Mashtal Street (Khartoum, Riyadh); 011-249-18-325-3500; Lebanese; where expats eat.
Little India – Street 41, Plot 47 (Khartoum); 011-249-91-230-6543; Indian, Thai, and continental.
Sights & Sites
Al Mogran Family Park – between Al Imam Al Mahdi & Nile Streets (Khartoum, 3-4 kms west of Presidential Palace);; Blue-White Nile Confluence (called Al-Mogran) best seen from metal bridge (old one, not newer, concrete one) linking Khartoum and Omdurman; NO PHOTOS from bridge.
Al-Shifa Pharmaceutical Factory – Bahri (north Khartoum); Tomahawked in 1998; quite easy to reach (minibus to Bahri, then taxi); guards are quite friendly and will let you in for wander; contribution gratefully received.
Blue Nile Sailing Club – Khartoum; gray-colored boat onshore about 50m from Nile River banks is El Malik, formerly one of Kitchener’s gunboats (served in Battle of Omdurman); after retiring from government service, handed over to Blue Nile Sailing Club and used as its headquarters; still operational clubhouse where can hire small boats to cruise or sail along Blue Nile.
Camel Market – Souk Moowaileh (Omdurman).
Ethnographic Museum – Al Gamaa Street (Khartoum, at Mak Nemir Avenue); fascinating, little museum.
Khalifa’s House – Omdurman; Abdullah al-Taaisha, also known as Khalifa, succeeded as Mahdist leader on Mahdi’s death; his house is now museum; exhibits include various remnants from old battles and some interesting old British newspaper clippings reporting British efforts in Sudan.
National Museum – Nile Street (Khartoum); dwarfed by modern buildings nearby; fine exhibits in dusty halls, most notably pharaonic stone carvings and stunning Nubian Christian frescoes; museum gardens also house several Kushite and Egyptian temples saved during Aswan Dam construction.
Nile Street (Shari’a Al-Nil) – Khartoum; prettiest street, with Blue Nile on one side; lined with pretty, albeit decaying-looking, colonial buildings, most of which are used as ministries, schools and even hotel (Grand Holiday Villa Khartoum); tree-lined most of way (except towards west); sidewalk.
Nuba Wrestling – Bahri (Khartoum, north, next to Souk Sita Al Haj Yousef); every Friday at 4pm; 2 wrestler teams battle it out; spectacle well worth trip.
Omdurman Souk – Omdurman; among Africa’s largest markets; handicraft street is quite difficult to find (towards northern end, near gold section and not on western side); street is actually covered lane between 2 buildings with gates at either end.
Presidential Palace Museum – Al Gamaa Street (Khartoum); housed in impressive, century-old Palace Cathedral; from paintings of Sir Gordon Pasha to more recent ruler’s Presidential cars.
Sheikh Hamad El Nil Tomb – Omdurman (2 kms south of Omdurman Souk);; constructed in 1936; sufi dancing around 4-5 p.m.

Tented Camp – Bagarwyia;,_Sudan.html.
Sights & Sites
Royal Cemetery – Begarawiyah;; among Sudan’s most spectacular sights; Meroitic pharaohs thrived from 592 BCE until overrun by Abyssinians in 350; narrow pyramid clusters blanket sand-swept hills; some well-preserved hieroglyphics can still be seen in tombs’ antechambers.

Sights & Sites
Amun & Apedemak Temples – Naga;; ancient Egpytian-Meroitic temples.

Tuesday, November 6, 2012


(includes Atrani, Cameroata, Capaccio Paestum, Conca dei Marini, Maiori, Massicelle, Nerano, Ogliastro Cilento, Palinuro, Pisciotta, Positano, Punta Licosa, Punta Quaglia, Ravello, San Giovanni a Piro, Santa Maria di Castellabate, Scario & Vallo della Lucania)

Pasticceria Pansa – 40 Piazza Duomo (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1065;
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832;; on beach; coffee.

Enoteca Osteria Perbacco – 5 Contrada Marina Campagna (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3889;; wine bar with sea views.
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832;; on beach.
Ristorante K – Piazza Giusepe Comunale (San Marco di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-6394;

Arco Naturale – Palinuro (outside center, towards Marina di Camerota); compound rock/sandy beach famous for natural arch that encloses one little bearch.
Buondormire Beach – Palinuro (at head); reachable only by boat; has cape’s clearest water and finest sand; encircled from peak to reef.
Marinella Beach – Palinuro (at Lambro River’s end, reached by long stair in rocks that arrives to beach from Palinuro Cape’s top); sand is white and very soft; incomparable vies (can see coast until Marina di Camerota); in summer, can rent beach umbrellas and equipment directly on the beach.

Cathedral – Palinuro; large cavities submerged with 4 air domes.
Grotta Azzurra (Blue Cave) – Punta Quaglia (trail to cave crosses); 2 underwater entrances; maximum depth is 33 ms.
Sala della Neve (Hall of Snow) – Palinuro; 26 x 45 ms; on floor, area with 3 depressions, from one of which arises sulphur spring (clearly visible, discharge creates snowfall effect).

La Conca del Sogna – 9 Via San Marciano (Nerano); 011-39-081-808-1036;; more of bed & breakfast with 6 comfortable rooms.
Locanda San Fantino – 8 Via San Fantino (Scario); 011-39-97-498-3442;; rustic farmhouse available for rent or as B&B; dizzying views; nicest bedrooms upstairs; landowner Sebastiano Petrilli offers cooking and hiking services, including seeking 70 different types wild orchids that grow on nearby Mount Cervati; simple; use as base to swim in Bussento River.
Marulivo Hotel – Via Castello (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3792;; converted monastery; vertiginous veranda series with rooms attached; high above cobbled streets that are off-limits to cars.
Monastero Santa Rosa – 2 Via Roma (Conca dei Marini); 011-39-089-832-1199;; 17th Century convent turned hotel; 20 bedroom suites; infinity pool.
Palazzo Belmonte – 25 Via Flavio Gioia (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-0211;; Prince Angelo Granito Pignatelli di Belmonte’s family castle (he still lives in private wing); walled estate sheltered behind palms and umbrella pines; optimal suite is Cirtonella (in Edoardo House).
Palazzo Sasso – 28 Via San Giovanni del Toro (Ravello); 011-39-89-818-181;; former palace on Amalfi Coast; spectacular service and setting.
Il San Pietro di Positano – 2 Via Laurito; 011-39-089-875-455;; spread over cliff ledges; dreamlike accommodations; excellent restaurant; 1st choice in Positano.
Hotel Santa Caterina – 163 Strada (Atrani); 011-39-089-871-012;; on mainland across from Capri; 103 year-old hotel with breath-taking views; terraced citrus groves; additional structure, Villa il Rosso, has 4 rooms with original antiques.
Villa Cimbrone – 26 Via Santa Chiara (Ravello); 011-39-089-857-459;; featured in Trip to Italy; medieval palazzo with sumptuous suites, panoramic pool, formal gardens & most beautiful panorama; on sheer-sided spur high above sea; vie for sea-view suite; grounds are what most people come for, with long avenues of umbrella pines, fragrant rose gardens, trellises dripping with wysteria, belvedere fringed with marble busts, even pseudo-Roman temple; gourmet restaurant on poolside veranda.
Villa Serena – Punta Licosa; 011-39-97-496-0211;; owned by Palazzo Belmonte; villa sleeps 14; former castle hunting grounds on UNESCO-protected nature reserve; lovely.
Le Sirenuse – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo; 011-39-89-875-766;; romantic with excellent restaurant.

Ristorante Angiolina – 2 Via Passariello (Pisciotta, at Marina); 011-39-97-497-3188;; where 90 year-old Nonna Angiolina still prepares and serves best fish soup this side of Naples.
La Caravella – 12 Via Mattteo Camera (Atrani); 011-39-08-987-1029;; Amalfi’s best restaurant.
Ristorante da Carmine – 37 Via Provinciale (Ogliastro Cilento, at marina); 011-39-97-496-3023;; memorable, simple pasta dishes.
Il Cefalo – Via Monsignor Passaro (Ogliastro, at Marina); 011-39-97-496-3019;; chic.
La Conca del Sogna – 9 Via San Marciano (Nerano); 011-39-081-808-1036;; tables swathed in white cloth, perched on terrace overlooking blowhole and huge stone basin of sea water in which your lunch is swimming; stay all day.
Eolo – 3 Via Pantaleone Comite (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1241;; seafood.
Enoteca Osteria Perbacco – 5 Contrada Marina Campagna (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3889;; specialities include fiori di zucca con ricotta e alici (zucchini blossoms with ricotta and salted anchovies); sea views.
Ristorante K – Piazza Giusepe Comunale (San Marco di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-6394;; some consider best seafood on Amalfi Coast.
A’Paranzi – ½ Via Dragone (Atrani); 011-39-08-987-1840; seafood.
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832;; seafood; linguini with fava beans and squid is excellent; on beach.
Ristorante Pizzeria da Giggino il Pirata – 27 Via Principe Amedeo (San Giovanni a Piro); 011-39-97-498-6117; pizzeria.
Lo Scoglio – Scario; 011-39-97-498-6747; pizzeria.
La Sponda – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo (at Le Sirenuse); 011-39-89-875-766;; walls decorated with bougainvillea and 450 candles.
La Tana del Lupo – Scario; 011-39-339-507-5564; simple country grills and salads.
La Torre Normanna – 4 Via Diego Tajani (Maiori); 011-39-08-987-7100;; in tower built in 1562 beautiful; seafood.
U Zifaro – 43 Via Lungomare (Scario); 011-39-97-498-6397;; some of best regional seafood.

Coast Lines – Piazza del Municipio (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1483 or 011-39-348-729-0275 (ask for Captain Maurizio Esposito and boat, Riva Furama);
Scario Beach Shuttle – Via Lungomare Guglielmo Marconi (ask at Bar Tony); will take you to beaches accessible only by water.
Spiaggia da Peppe – between Camerota & Palinuro; 011-39-347-856-5596; beach equipment (sunbeds, umbrellas) rentals.

Emporio Le Sirenuse – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo; 011-39-089-875-066;; eau d’Italie products.
Il Granato – Spinazzo (Capaccio Paestum); 011-39-082-872-2712;; mozzarella produced by Tenuta Vannulo dairy.
Punta Licosa Estate – 25 Via Flavio Gioia (Santa Maria di Castellabate, at Palazzo Belmonte); 011-39-97-496-0211;; olive oil.
Saverio Scanniello – Via Ciardelle (Massicelle); 011-39-97-495-3772;; hand-made olive wood products.
Tenuta Vannulo – Spinazzo (Capaccio Paestum); 011-39-082-872-2712;; dairy noted for its mozzarella.

Cilento & Vallo di Diano National Park – 8 Contrada Santa Caterina (Vallo della Lucania); 011-39-97-471-9911;
Gran Furor Divina Costiera di Marisa Cuomo – 14 Via G.B. Lama (Furore); 011-39-08-983-0348;; day tour of vineyards; note that Furore is UNESCO World Heritage site.
Marina del Cantone – day trip to small town, west of Positano (eat at Taverna del Capitano (Marina del Cantone) and Quattro Passi (same), both Michelin starred; also, Lo Scoglio (same)).
Palinuro Cape – extends into sea in pentadattilo (“hand-like”) form from Campania coast, with cliffs that fall into sea from more than 50 ms; Cape Palinuro lighthouse; rocks shelter nesting birds; 32 caves (diving), of which most popular is Grotta Azzurra (“Blue Cave”), so-called for light color on water, cave containing sulfur water source.