Tuesday, November 6, 2012

AMALFI COAST

(includes Atrani, Cameroata, Capaccio Paestum, Conca dei Marini, Maiori, Massicelle, Nerano, Ogliastro Cilento, Palinuro, Pisciotta, Positano, Punta Licosa, Punta Quaglia, Ravello, San Giovanni a Piro, Santa Maria di Castellabate, Scario & Vallo della Lucania)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Pasticceria Pansa – 40 Piazza Duomo (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1065; pasticceriapansa.it.
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832; facebook.com/pages/Ristorante-PerBacco/134309859954252; on beach; coffee.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Enoteca Osteria Perbacco – 5 Contrada Marina Campagna (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3889; perbacco.it; wine bar with sea views.
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832; facebook.com/pages/Ristorante-PerBacco/134309859954252; on beach.
Ristorante K – Piazza Giusepe Comunale (San Marco di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-6394; ristorantekcilento.com.



BEACHES
Arco Naturale – Palinuro (outside center, towards Marina di Camerota); compound rock/sandy beach famous for natural arch that encloses one little bearch.
Buondormire Beach – Palinuro (at head); reachable only by boat; has cape’s clearest water and finest sand; encircled from peak to reef.
Marinella Beach – Palinuro (at Lambro River’s end, reached by long stair in rocks that arrives to beach from Palinuro Cape’s top); sand is white and very soft; incomparable vies (can see coast until Marina di Camerota); in summer, can rent beach umbrellas and equipment directly on the beach.



DIVES
Cathedral – Palinuro; large cavities submerged with 4 air domes.
Grotta Azzurra (Blue Cave) – Punta Quaglia (trail to cave crosses); 2 underwater entrances; maximum depth is 33 ms.
Sala della Neve (Hall of Snow) – Palinuro; 26 x 45 ms; on floor, area with 3 depressions, from one of which arises sulphur spring (clearly visible, discharge creates snowfall effect).



HOTELS
La Conca del Sogna – 9 Via San Marciano (Nerano); 011-39-081-808-1036; concadelsogno.it; more of bed & breakfast with 6 comfortable rooms.
Locanda San Fantino – 8 Via San Fantino (Scario); 011-39-97-498-3442; sanfantino.com; rustic farmhouse available for rent or as B&B; dizzying views; nicest bedrooms upstairs; landowner Sebastiano Petrilli offers cooking and hiking services, including seeking 70 different types wild orchids that grow on nearby Mount Cervati; simple; use as base to swim in Bussento River.
Marulivo Hotel – Via Castello (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3792; marulivohotel.it; converted monastery; vertiginous veranda series with rooms attached; high above cobbled streets that are off-limits to cars.
Monastero Santa Rosa – 2 Via Roma (Conca dei Marini); 011-39-089-832-1199; monasterosantarosa.com; 17th Century convent turned hotel; 20 bedroom suites; infinity pool.
Palazzo Belmonte – 25 Via Flavio Gioia (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-0211; palazzobelmonte.com; Prince Angelo Granito Pignatelli di Belmonte’s family castle (he still lives in private wing); walled estate sheltered behind palms and umbrella pines; optimal suite is Cirtonella (in Edoardo House).
Palazzo Sasso – 28 Via San Giovanni del Toro (Ravello); 011-39-89-818-181; palazzosasso.com; former palace on Amalfi Coast; spectacular service and setting.
Il San Pietro di Positano – 2 Via Laurito; 011-39-089-875-455; ilsanpietro.it; spread over cliff ledges; dreamlike accommodations; excellent restaurant; 1st choice in Positano.
Hotel Santa Caterina – 163 Strada (Atrani); 011-39-089-871-012; hotelsantacaterina.it; on mainland across from Capri; 103 year-old hotel with breath-taking views; terraced citrus groves; additional structure, Villa il Rosso, has 4 rooms with original antiques.
Villa Cimbrone – 26 Via Santa Chiara (Ravello); 011-39-089-857-459; villacimbrone.com; featured in Trip to Italy; medieval palazzo with sumptuous suites, panoramic pool, formal gardens & most beautiful panorama; on sheer-sided spur high above sea; vie for sea-view suite; grounds are what most people come for, with long avenues of umbrella pines, fragrant rose gardens, trellises dripping with wysteria, belvedere fringed with marble busts, even pseudo-Roman temple; gourmet restaurant on poolside veranda.
Villa Serena – Punta Licosa; 011-39-97-496-0211; palazzobelmonte.com; owned by Palazzo Belmonte; villa sleeps 14; former castle hunting grounds on UNESCO-protected nature reserve; lovely.
Le Sirenuse – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo; 011-39-89-875-766; sirenuse.it; romantic with excellent restaurant.



RESTAURANTS
Ristorante Angiolina – 2 Via Passariello (Pisciotta, at Marina); 011-39-97-497-3188; ristoranteangiolina.it; where 90 year-old Nonna Angiolina still prepares and serves best fish soup this side of Naples.
La Caravella – 12 Via Mattteo Camera (Atrani); 011-39-08-987-1029; ristorantelacaravella.it; Amalfi’s best restaurant.
Ristorante da Carmine – 37 Via Provinciale (Ogliastro Cilento, at marina); 011-39-97-496-3023; albergodacarmine.it; memorable, simple pasta dishes.
Il Cefalo – Via Monsignor Passaro (Ogliastro, at Marina); 011-39-97-496-3019; ilcefalo.it; chic.
La Conca del Sogna – 9 Via San Marciano (Nerano); 011-39-081-808-1036; concadelsogno.it; tables swathed in white cloth, perched on terrace overlooking blowhole and huge stone basin of sea water in which your lunch is swimming; stay all day.
Eolo – 3 Via Pantaleone Comite (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1241; eoloamalfi.it; seafood.
Enoteca Osteria Perbacco – 5 Contrada Marina Campagna (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3889; perbacco.it; specialities include fiori di zucca con ricotta e alici (zucchini blossoms with ricotta and salted anchovies); sea views.
Ristorante K – Piazza Giusepe Comunale (San Marco di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-6394; ristorantekcilento.com; some consider best seafood on Amalfi Coast.
A’Paranzi – ½ Via Dragone (Atrani); 011-39-08-987-1840; seafood.
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832; facebook.com/pages/Ristorante-PerBacco/134309859954252; seafood; linguini with fava beans and squid is excellent; on beach.
Ristorante Pizzeria da Giggino il Pirata – 27 Via Principe Amedeo (San Giovanni a Piro); 011-39-97-498-6117; pizzeria.
Lo Scoglio – Scario; 011-39-97-498-6747; pizzeria.
La Sponda – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo (at Le Sirenuse); 011-39-89-875-766; sirenuse.it; walls decorated with bougainvillea and 450 candles.
La Tana del Lupo – Scario; 011-39-339-507-5564; simple country grills and salads.
La Torre Normanna – 4 Via Diego Tajani (Maiori); 011-39-08-987-7100; torrenormanna.net; in tower built in 1562 beautiful; seafood.
U Zifaro – 43 Via Lungomare (Scario); 011-39-97-498-6397; scariovacanze.it/zifaro.htm; some of best regional seafood.



SERVICES
Coast Lines – Piazza del Municipio (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1483 or 011-39-348-729-0275 (ask for Captain Maurizio Esposito and boat, Riva Furama); amalficoastlines.com.
Scario Beach Shuttle – Via Lungomare Guglielmo Marconi (ask at Bar Tony); will take you to beaches accessible only by water.
Spiaggia da Peppe – between Camerota & Palinuro; 011-39-347-856-5596; beach equipment (sunbeds, umbrellas) rentals.



SHOPPING
Emporio Le Sirenuse – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo; 011-39-089-875-066; emporiolesirenuse.com; eau d’Italie products.
Il Granato – Spinazzo (Capaccio Paestum); 011-39-082-872-2712; www.caseificioilgranato.it; mozzarella produced by Tenuta Vannulo dairy.
Punta Licosa Estate – 25 Via Flavio Gioia (Santa Maria di Castellabate, at Palazzo Belmonte); 011-39-97-496-0211; palazzobelmonte.com; olive oil.
Saverio Scanniello – Via Ciardelle (Massicelle); 011-39-97-495-3772; www.artescanniello.com; hand-made olive wood products.
Tenuta Vannulo – Spinazzo (Capaccio Paestum); 011-39-082-872-2712; www.caseificioilgranato.it; dairy noted for its mozzarella.



SIGHTS & SITES
Cilento & Vallo di Diano National Park – 8 Contrada Santa Caterina (Vallo della Lucania); 011-39-97-471-9911; www.cilentoediano.it/panel.html.
Gran Furor Divina Costiera di Marisa Cuomo – 14 Via G.B. Lama (Furore); 011-39-08-983-0348; granfuror.it; day tour of vineyards; note that Furore is UNESCO World Heritage site.
Marina del Cantone – day trip to small town, west of Positano (eat at Taverna del Capitano (Marina del Cantone) and Quattro Passi (same), both Michelin starred; also, Lo Scoglio (same)).
Palinuro Cape – extends into sea in pentadattilo (“hand-like”) form from Campania coast, with cliffs that fall into sea from more than 50 ms; Cape Palinuro lighthouse; rocks shelter nesting birds; 32 caves (diving), of which most popular is Grotta Azzurra (“Blue Cave”), so-called for light color on water, cave containing sulfur water source.

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