Sunday, July 31, 2011


(includes Apple Valley, Edina, St. Louis Park & Shakopee)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Eat Street Social – 18 West 26th Street; 612-767-6850;; soda fountain that also functions as bar.
Patisserie 46 – 4552 Grand Avenue South (Kingfield); 612-354-3257;; excellent croissants and macarons.
Patisserie Margo – 5133 Gus Young Lane (Edina); 952-926-0548;
Patrick’s Bakery & Café – 2980 West 66th Street; 612-861-7570;; try chocolate feuillantine cake.
Rustica Bakery – 3220 West Lake Street; 612-822-1119;; European baked goods and pastries.
Salty Tart – 920 East Lake Street; 612-874-9206;; bakery; anything with buttercream frosting.
Sweets Bakeshop – 4747 Nicollet Avenue South (Tangletown); 612-208-0672;; cupcakes (try Kettle Corn cupcake) and macarons.

Bars & Nightclubs
Anchor Fish & Chips – 302 13th Avenue Northeast; 612-676-1300;; fried fish and hand-cut fries.
Bar La Grassa – 800 North Washington Avenue; 612-333-3837;; wine bar (and pasta temple); make sure to try Calabrian grilled pork ribs.
Barley John’s – 781 Old Highway 8 Southwest (New Brighton); 651-636-4670;; on Wednesdays, offers “cask-decanted, cask-aged ales” (made as in Shakespeare’s time).
Bradstreet Crafthouse – 601 1st Avenue North; 612-312-1821;; inside Graves 601 Hotel; curved granite bar; order Juliet & Romeo (gin, lime, mint, cucumber, and rose water).
Dangerous Man Brewing Company – 1300 2nd Street NE; 612-236-4087;
Donny Dirk’s Zombie Den – 2027 North 2nd Street; 612-588-9700;; bartenders are dressed as Shaun of Dead-style zombie hunters; stunning waitresses in long, black Morticia Addams dresses serve drinks in big goblets; tempting chainsaw is hanging on wall in glass case, just in case of zombie apocalypse; rotating menu of zombie-themed cocktails.
Eat Street Social – 18 West 26th Street; 612-767-6850;; soda fountain that also functions as bar.
1st Avenue – 701 1st Avenue North (at 7th Street); 612-338-8388;; built in 1937 as Greyhound bus station; club got its start when Danny Stevens and Allan Fingerhut opened doors on April 3, 1970 to showcase Joe Cocker’s Mad Dogs & Englishmen; on New Year’s Eve 1981, became 1st Avenue; during 80s, local artist Prince made it his main stage (used as set for many scenes in Purple Rain).
Ice Chamber Minneapolis Bar – 901 Hennepin Avenue (at Le Meridien Chambers Hotel); 612-767-6900;; in season, bar carved of solid ice.
Icehouse – 2528 Nicollet Avenue South; 612-276-6523;; hipster bar.
Lyn-Lake Brewery – 2934 Lyndale Avenue South (at West Lake Street); gluten-free ales.
Marvel Bar – 50 North 2nd Avenue (at Bachelor Farmer); 612-206-3929;; kind of Scandinavian speakeasy located below restaurant; try gin-based “Olivetto” (olive oil & egg white concoction that is variation on traditional “sour” drinks: lush, smooth, and peerless in city).
Northeast Social – 359 13th Avenue Northeast; 612-877-8111;; upmarket, chef-owned bisto pub.
Parlour – 730 North Washington Avenue; 612-354-3135;; basement speakeasy.
Peacock Lounge – 323 13th Avenue Northeast; 612-623-4211;
Psycho Suzi’s Motor Lounge – 1900 Marshall Street Northeast; 612-788-9069;; tiki bar and pizza joint with style to burn; enormous riverfront patio and 3 2nd-floor bars open only on weekends; hall of fame-worthy jukebox.
Rooftop Bar – 901 Hennepin Avenue (at Chambers Hotel); 612-767-6900;; avant garde movies at night.
Rye Delicatessen & Bar – 1930 Hennepin Avenue; 612-871-1200;; promising.
331 – 331 13th Avenue Northeast; 612-331-1746;; friendly, local, art bar.
Surly Brewing Co. – 4811 Dusharme Drive; 763-535-3330;; small brewery that operates taproom.
World Street Kitchen – 2743 Lyndale Avenue South; 612-424-8855;

Chambers Hotel – 901 Hennepin Avenue; 612-767-6900 or 877-767-6990;; more than 200 works modern art on display and just 60 rooms; austere yet comfortable; Damien Hirst skull suspended in formaldehyde behind front desk; heated bathroom floors; excellent restaurant; deluxe studio rooms are best.
Graves 601 – 601 1st Avenue North; 612-677-1100 or 866-523-1100;
Hotel Ivy – 201 South 11th Street; 612-746-4600 or 877-746-6001;
W Hotel – Foshay – 821 Marquette Avenue; 612-215-3700 or 877-946-8357;

Anchor Fish & Chips – 302 13th Avenue Northeast; 612-676-1300;; fried fish and hand-cut fries.
Bachelor Farmer – 50 North 2nd Avenue; 612-206-3929;; contemporary riffs on traditional Minnesota dishes, like meatballs with lingonberries and mashed potatoes.
La Belle Vie – 510 Groveland Avenue; 612-874-6440;; try lobster & pumpkin pasta.
Borough – 730 North Washington Avenue; 612-354-3135;; smartly designed.
Brasa Premium Rotisserie – 600 East Hennepin Avenue; 612-379-3030;; great neighborhood restaurant masquerading as dive; although primarily chicken restaurant, try slow-cooked, Berkshire pork shoulder.
Burch Steakhouse & Pizza Bar – 1933 Colfax Avenue South; 612-843-1515;
Cue at Guthrie – 818 South 2nd Street; 612-225-6499;; cavernous space; game.
Lucia’s Wine Bar – 1432 West 31st Street; 612-823-7125;; seasonal menus and marvelous deserts.
Merchant – North Loop.
Modern Café – 337 13th Avenue Northeast; 612-378-9882;; great weekend brunches.
Murray’s – 26 South 6th Street; 612-339-0909;; recently renovated, mid-20th Century steakhouse; no windows, mirrors, white table cloths; perfect steaks and sides; reassuring atmosphere without being dowdy.
Northeast Social – 359 13th Avenue Northeast; 612-877-8111;; upmarket, chef-owned bisto pub.
112 Eatery – 112 North 3rd Street; 612-343-7696;; international; excellent.
Parka Minneapolis – 4021 East Lake Street; 612-886-1585;; popular.
Patrick’s Bakery & Café – 2980 West 66th Street; 612-861-7570;; try chocolate feuillantine cake.
Ramen Kazama – 3400 Nicollet Avenue S; 612-353-6160;; bustling Japanese soup shop with small plate selection; beer & sake; funky.
Rye Delicatessen & Bar – 1930 Hennepin Avenue; 612-871-1200;; promising; quality ingredients.
Sample Room – 2124 Marshall Street Northeast; 612-789-0333;; “sample night away”; charming, warm establishment where small plates (cheeses, meats, and vegetables) always changing; no reservations.
Sea Change – 818 South 2nd Street; 612-225-6499;; try grilled swordfish cassoulet; sustainable food.
Smack Shack – 603 North Washington Avenue; 612-259-7288;; for lobster; seafood.
Spoon & Stable – 211 North 1st Street; 612-224-9850;; menu has 5 sections: garden; chilled;grains & pasta; sea; and land; or, can order Dorothy’s Dinner, features daily-rotating dishes served family-style.
Tilia – 2726 West 43rd Street; 612-354-2806;; try cornmeal waffles with lobster, garlic-lemon spinach, slow-poached eggs, and bacon hollandaise.
Travail Kitchen & Amusements – 4154 West Broadway (Robbinsdale); 763-535-1131;; crazy low prices for house-made charcuterie; ambitious and “smart.”

Beauty Room – 4111 East Lake Street; 612-724-4111;; spa.

Askov Finlayson – 200 North 1st Street; 612-206-3925;; men’s clothing.
Cult Status Gallery – 2913 Harriet Avenue South; 612-965-9162;; street art.
D. NOLO – 219 North 2nd Street; 612-584-3244;; women’s clothing.
Martin Patrick 3 – 212 North 3rd Avenue; 612-746-5329;; impeccably curated sensory overload; clothing & trinkets.
StevenBe – 3448 Chicago Avenue South; 612-259-7525;; moddish knitting supplies and one-of-kind clothing items.
Hunt & Gather – 4944 Xerxes Avenue South; 612-455-0250;; 2 stories of everything from taxidermy to scrabble pieces.
Rogue Buddha Gallery – 357 13th Avenue Northeast; 612-331-3889;
Shuga Records – 165 13th Avenue Northeast; 952-942-0000;; vinyl.
Spinario Design & Gallery – 1300 2nd Street Northeast; 612-396-1860;; specializing in mid-century modern furnishings; antiques.

Sights & Sites
Ballet of Dolls – 345 13th Avenue Northeast; 612-436-1129;; anti-art, counter convention, modern dance.
Allen Christian’s House of Balls – 212 3rd Avenue North; 612-332-3992;; art made of bowling balls, among other things.
Corn Maze – 1100 Canterbury Road (Shakopee); 952-974-5000;; seasonal; America’s largest corn maze.
Form + Content Gallery – 210 North 2nd Street, Suite 104; 612-436-1151;; art.
Father Hennepin Bluffs Park – 420 Main Street Southeast; 612-230-6400;; 8 acres for picnicking and play locale; direct access to footpaths and bridges that display unique view of Mississippi River Gorge, downtown skyline, and Stone Arch Bridge.
Gay ‘90s – 408 Hennepin Avenue; 612-333-7755;; drag shows every night except Mondays; sprawling venue with 6 bars.
Guthrie Theater – 818 South 2nd Street; 612-377-2224;
Hubert Humphrey’s Grave & Tiny Tim’s Mausoleum – 3600 Hennepin Avenue (at Lakewood Cemetery); 612-822-2171;; as you enter cemetery, make immediate right; Tiny Tim buried in 2nd mausoleum on left (lower level, last room on left); buried with ukulele in his hand and tulip; after leaving mausoleum, go back toward entrance, continue past to Plot 51 for Hubert Humphrey’s grave; also buried here are George Mikan (professional basketball player) and elusive Showman’s Rest (circus performer section).
Minneapolis Institute of Arts – 2400 3rd Avenue South; 612-870-3131 or 888-642-2787;
Minneapolis Sculpture Garden – 726 Vineland Place; 612-230-6400;; more than 40 works on permanent view; additional temporary installations.
Minnesota Zoo – 13000 Zoo Boulevard (Apple Valley); 952-431-9200; mnzoo.
Museum of Russian Art – 5500 Stevens Avenue; 612-821-9045;
Ritz Theater – 345 13th Avenue Northeast; 612-436-1129;; try to book for Stephanie Wilbur Ash, who stages radio variety show live (“PowderKeg Live”).
Soap Factory – 518 2nd Street Southeast; 612-623-9176;
Southern Theater – 1420 Washington Avenue South; 612-340-1725;
State Theatre – 805 Hennepin Avenue; 612-673-0404;
Ted Mann Concert Hall – 2128 South 4th Street, 100 Ferguson Hall; 612-626-1892 or 612-624-2345;; atop Mississippi River bluffs; host to wide variety corporate, cultural, and educational events; located in thriving West Bank Arts Quarter, easily accessible from downtown Minneapolis and St. Paul; state-of-art hall; breathtaking view through stunning 3-story, glass-walled lobby.
Treehouse – 6805 Minnetonka Boulevard (St. Louis Park, east of Highway 100); 612-454-1499;; multi-story structure.
Walker Art Center – 1750 Hennepin Avenue; 612-375-7600;; Formally established in 1927; upper midwest’s 1st public art gallery; focus on modern art began in 1940s, with gift of works by Pablo Picasso, Henry Moore, Alberto Giacometti, and others; during 1960s, organized increasingly ambitious exhibitions that circulated to museums in US and abroad; permanent collection expanded to reflect contemporary art.
Weisman Art Museum – 333 East River Road; 612-625-9494;; since 1934, University of Minnesota teaching museum; Frank Gehry-designed; along Mississippi River (1993); museum’s collection features early 20th Century American artists (Georgia O’Keeffe and Marsden Hartley), as well as diverse contemporary art selection.
Xerxes Avenue – south of West 50th Street; “art houses”; homes painted in wild colors, crazy yard art; worth special trip.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Bars Bakery – 612 Selby Avenue; 651-224-8300;; modern twist on classic dessert “bar” (meaning bar cookie).
Cold Front Coffee Ice Cream Soda – 490 Hamline Avenue South; 651-330-7632;; soda shop treats with syrups like cherry or lime made in-house.
Grumpy Steve’s – 215 Wabasha Street South (in Wabasha Street Caves); 651-224-1191;; coffee-shop.
Kopplin’s Coffee – 490 Hamline Avenue South; 651-698-0457;; Twin Cities’ best coffee; try cinnamon buns and pecan shortbread, too.
Sweets Bakeshop – 2042 Marshall Avenue; 651-340-7138;; cupcakes (try Kettle Corn cupcake) and macarons.

Bars & Nightclubs
Amsterdam Bar & Hall – 6 West 6th Street; 612-285-3112;; mostly beer hall that happens to serve some food and also sponsors live performances.
Lexington – 1096 Grand Avenue; 651-222-5878;; standard fare in venue since 1935.

Grand Hand Gallery – 619 Grand Avenue; 651-312-1122;; fine American hand crafts – ceramics, textiles, etc.
Maharaja’s – 205 7th Street West; 651-292-1623;; groovy gift shop.
Twin Cities Magic & Costume – 250 East 7th Street; 651-227-7888;

Sights & Sites
Le Cirque Rouge – 6 West 6th Street (at Amsterdam Bar & Hall); 612-285-3112;; burlesque-cabaret show.
Frieda & Henry Neils House – 2801 Burnham Boulevard (Cedar-Isles-Dean);; not open to public; designed by Frank Lloyd Wright for Henry J. Neils, architectural materials distributor; unusual for Wright-designed home both in type of stone used as well as aluminum window framing; Neils approached Wright in 1949 to help build new home on property adjacent to existing home, overlooking Cedar Lake; only Wright home to use marble walls (small marble blocks left over from other marble projects & Henry Neil, as marble company trustee, able to acquire them at good price); house designed in Wright post-WWII Usonian architecture.
Mears Park – 221 East 5th Street; 651-632-5111;; Mears Park located in Historic Lowertown neighborhood; block surrounded by classical buildings and St. Paul’s tallest residential building, Galtier Plaza.
Minnesota Roller Girls – 175 Kellog Boulevard West (at Roy Wilkins Auditorium); 651-265-4800;; roller derby.
Ordway Center for Performing Arts – 345 Washington Street; 651-291-1144;
Raptor Center – 1920 Fitch Avenue; 612-624-4745;
Science Museum of Minnesota – 120 West Kellogg Boulevard; 651-221-9444 or 800-221-9444;
Wabasha Street Caves – 215 Wabasha Street South; 651-224-1191;; event venue built into sandstone cliffs; coffee-shop (Grumpy Steve’s) on site; also, gangter-past tours.


(does not include Red Sea; includes West Bank)

David’s Tours of Israel – 011-972-052-458-9444;; archaeologist; fluent in English and Russian; provides sensitive, tailored tours throughout Israel, with special depth of knowledge re Israel’s ancient history.
Itsik Harani – 23 Brodetzki Street (Tel-Aviv); 011-972-052-327-8713;; excellent tours.

ABU GHOSH (includes Nataf)
Abu Ghosh Restaurant – 65 Hashalom Street; 011-972-02-533-2019;; briefly enshrined in Guiness Book of World Records for preparing world’s largest hummus plate.
Lebanese Restaurant – 88 Hashalom Street; 011-972-02-533-5561;; sit at table in shady courtyard.
Rama’s Kitchen – Nataf; 011-972-02-570-0954;; everything anchored around taboon (stone oven); baked breads and whole fish; veranda overlooks Mediterranean & Judean Hills.
Sights & Sites
Church of Notre Dame de l’Arche de l’Alliance (Our Lady of Ark of Covenant) – at hill top (turn right across from old police station, adjacent Kiryat Yearim community); 011-972-02-534-2812; marks last place Ark rested before King David brought it to Jerusalem.
Crusader Church of Resurrection – Tel Aviv-Jerusalem Highway (13 km from West Jerusalem); 011-972-02-534-2798; built in 12th Century and more perfectly preserved than any other ancient church in Palestine; lush, walled date palm garden; built over ancient cistern used in Canaanite times.

Sights & Sites
Ein Gedi – west of Dead Sea, near Masada & Qumran caves;; national park-oasis.
Masada – 12 miles east of Arad; 011-972-3-539-6700;; ancient fortification in south, on eastern Judaean Desert’s edge, overlooking Dead Sea; Herod built palaces for himself on mountain and fortified Masada between 37-31 BCE.

Integral – 6 Hagdud Haivri; 011-972-8-866-8824; Russian-fusion food with plenty vodka.

Walled Off Hotel – Area C;; decorated & designed by Banksy.

Hilton Eilat Queen of Sheba Resort – 8 Antib Road, North Shore; 011-972-8-630-6666;; lagoon, mountains, and Red Sea views; parasailing and water-skiing; average food.
Rimonim Hotel Eilat – North Beach; 011-972-3-675-4591;

Health Spa Estate Neve Midbar – Moshbey Sade (next to Park Golda); 011-972-08-657-9666;; spacious health spa (for daytime visits); centers on natural thermo-mineral water pool, pumped up from deep underground, at around 102° F; also has 2 freshwater pools; sauna, various massages, and aromatherapy treatments; gift shop, kosher restaurant, and coffee shop.

Maya Negri – King Solomon Boardwalk (Designers Gallery); 011-972-8-658-3235;; Tel Aviv’s Donna Karan.

Sights & Sites
Chai Negev Zoological Park – Kibbutz Revivim; 011-972-08-656-2688;; activity center with animals as focus; on 4 acres; wild animals, carnivores, predators, reptiles, rodents, mammals, hoofed animals, water fowl, domestic animals.
Mitzpe Revivim – Kibbutz Revivim; 011-972-08-656-2570 or 011-972-08-656-2638;; Kibbutz Revivim is community established prior to Israel’s independence; besieged during Independence War by Egyptian soldiers; tours; also worth seeing, tree garden.

Agua – 1 Hamaayan Street; 011-972-02-644-9494; sidewalk café.
Sweet N’ Karem – town center; chocolates and ice cream; coffeehouse.

Ruth’s Tile Shop – town center; 2nd floor Ottoman house; ceramics.

Sights & Sites
Church of Visitation – built over John the Baptist’s parents’ home.
Convent of Sisters of Our Lady of Zion.
Muscovia Monastery.

Sights & Sites
Vertigo Eco-Art Village – Kibbutz Netiv HaLamed-Heh; 011-972-02-624-4176 (Jerusalem number); or; open year round.

GALILEE (Capernaum, Degania, Ein Gev, Hazor Haglilit, Kinneret Colony, Rosh Pina, Tiberias & Yardenit)
Bayit Bagalil – Hazor Haglilit; 011-972-4-680-8200;; 26-room boutique hotel in stone chateau; pretty pool; adults only.
Hotel Mizpe Hayamim – Safed Road 89; 011-972-4-699-4555;; on 15 acres of undeveloped land with Galilee Sea views on clear days; ample greenery inside & out; organic farm & perfumerie.

Galil Forest Spa – Hazor Haglilit (at Bayit Bagalil Hotel); 011-972-4-680-8200;; tiny spa.
Spa Mizpe Hayamim – Safed Road 89; 011-972-4-699-4555;; try Wildflower Honey Rejuvenation body scrub, masque, and massage.

Sights & Sites
Capernaum Ruins – 2 hours from Tel Aviv; main sights are ruined synagogue & church, which stand quite close to each other near shore, with ruins of 1st-6th Century houses in between.
Degania Alef Kibbutz Courtyard & Museum – off Route 90 (Degania); 011-972-4-660-8410;; Israel’s 1st kibbutz; make sure to check off adjunct, Beit Gordon Natural History Museum.
Ein Gev Kibbutz – Ein Gev; 011-972-4-665-9800;
Kinneret Colony Museum – Kinneret Colony; 011-972-4-675-0142; must book by appointment.
Yardenit – off Route 90 (down from Degania Alef Kibbutz); River Jordan location where Jesus baptized.

HAIFA (includes Akko & Mount Carmel)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Endomela – near Lighthouse (Akko); 011-972-04-955-2212;; run by Uri Jeremias, who also runs Uri Buri; try apricot and/or cardamom.

Carmel Forest Spa Resort – Carmel Forest; 011-972-4-830-7888;; luxury spa offering green, tranquil alternative to massive spa hotels in Dead Sea desert; considered most beautiful spa hotel in Israel; overlooks distant Mediterranean and wooded acres; ask for room overlooking forest or gardens.
Efendi Hotel – Louis IX Street (Akko); 011-972-74-729-9799;; 12 rooms occupying 2 Ottoman palaces; meticulously restored.

Kukushka – Turkish Bazaar (Old City); 011-972-04-901-9758;; limited snack menu that, in fact, is excellent; homemade soups, craft beers, sausages (!) wrapped in thin, fried bread, calamari.
Uri Buri – 93 Haganah Street (Akko); 011-972-04-955-2212;; legendary for seafood; on city ramparts; seedy in appearance and extremely poor (really, arrogant) service.

Sights & Sites
Baha’i Shrine & Gardens – Akko & Mount Carmel; 011-972-4-831-3131; or; 2 Baha’i Gardens, 1 in Haifa (also known as Hanging Gardens of Haifa) and other in Akko; garden terraces around Shrine of Bab on Mount Carmel are among Israel’s most visited tourist attractions.

Fergana – 54 Ha-Peled Street; 011-972-3-556-0210; inexpensive, tasty Uzbek cuisine in modest setting; plov, Central Asian pilaf, and manti (meat dumplings) are excellent.

Sights & Sites
Agamon Hula Lake Ornithological & Nature Park – Yesud Hamaala Junction; 011-972-04-681-7137;; 60K cranes migrate here annually.

NAHARIYA (includes Kibbutz Kabri)
Pivko Village – Kibbutz Kabri; 011-972-4-995-2711; airy, contemporary, tasteful wooden cabins in countryside, each with own outdoor Jacuzzi; every 2 cabins share spacious living room; lovely spot with gorgeous vistas and good hiking.

Adaline – Kibbutz Kabri; 011-972-4-995-2707; set in simple stone and wood building, beside dining terrace with countryside vistas and distant sea view; Mediterranean food prepared with fresh ingredients; homemade desserts and wine list although you can bring own; lovely, gourmet, country food.

Sights & Sites
Akko – former crusader capital; features Hospitalier castle, Templar tunnel, and museum.
Rosh Hanikra – known for white chalk cliffs and grottoes.
Tel Kabri – Kibbutz Kabri; arrange tour in advance; occupied over 16K year period; only Canaanite palace in region to be fully excavable; Minoan frescoes.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Deewan Al-Saraya – White Mosque Yard (Old City Market); 011-972-4-657-8697; coffee and qatayef, fried, syrup-soaked pancakes typically eaten during Ramadan.

Bars & Nightclubs
Alreda – Al-Bishara Street; 011-972-4-608-4404; charming old world decor and delightful garden terrace; try “Old Nazareth,” arak, lemonade, and mint.
Misk – Al-Bishara Street; 011-972-77-203-1811; bar-concert space; stylish.

Alreda – Al-Bishara Street; 011-972-4-608-4404; nouvelle Arabic cuisine; charming old world decor and delightful garden terrace; try Moroccan-style chicken, almond, and honey pastilla.
Mejana – Al-Bishara Street; 011-972-4-602-1067;; Arabic-Italian-Palestinian fusion in elegant space near Greek Orthodox Annunciation Church; daily changing menu.
Misk – Al-Bishara Street; 011-972-77-203-1811; concert space-restaurant in Ottoman-era, white stone building; falafel and shawarma; classic Palestinian dishes given worldly makeover.
Sudfeh – 35 Pilgrim’s Route 6083; 011-972-4-656-6611;; fusion bistro in 19th Century Russian seminary with white stone arches and 40' high ceilings; contemporary Arabic cuisine; Galilee Mill supplies spices.

El Babour – HaBankim Street; 011-972-04-645-5596;; family-owned mill that’s been grinding Ks grains & herbs for more than century.
Mahroum – Paulus VI Street; 011-972-4-656-0214;; sweets; try knafeh, Palestinian specialty (shredded phyllo covered in white cheese and syrup).

Sights & Sites
Galilee Mill – El Babour (Old City Market); 011-972-4-645-5596; on Old City’s edge, close to Mary’s Well; active store containing over K herbs and spices; originally, mill built by Wagner family (Templar movement at 19th Century’s end); visit highly recommended, both to see impressive grinding machines and old tools and enjoy wonderful scents emanating from wide variety aromatherapy oils, herbs, and spices.
Greek Orthodox Church of Annunciation – Ha-Knesiya Squaure; 011-972-04-6576437;; upper church has fine, wooden iconostasis, with delicate carvings & painted icons; from 18th Century church’s north aisle, 7 steps descend to lower chapel of spring; here, narrow single aisle, sometimes crowded with pilgrims, roofed by barrel vault & lined with blind arcades decorated with colored marble & glazed ceramic from about 1750; at north end of chapel, Mary’s Spring runs beneath altar & can be peered down into; round stone well has lamp over-hanging & many Mary icons set up around rim; according to 17th Century account (Quaresmi), now-blocked stair on right originally led to convent & there was altar in east wall (now covered with arcades); Byzantine bath house remains recently uncovered in area & can be seen in nearby cafe.


(does not include Dublin or Galway County; includes Counties Cavan, Clare, Cork, Donegal, Dublin, Kerry, Kilkenny, Leinster, Limerick, Mayo, Meath, Sligo, Tipperary & Waterford)

Blue Book –; register of high end country inns; not cheap; more like Relais & Chateaux.

Radisson Blu Farnham Estate – Farnham Estate; 011-353-049-437-7700 or 800-333-3333;; 300 year-old structure with modern wing; spa; 150 rooms; any of 8 rooms in original house are best.

Bars & Nightclubs
O’Lochlainn – Ballyvaugh Road; 011-353-065-707-7006; Steven Speilberg described this as one of best pubs he has been in; proprietor is Margaret, who opens at 8 every night unless gets her act together sooner or feels like dallying bit; essentially 1 quiet room (can hear grandfather clock ticking) crammed with antiques, old pictures, older maps, and bric-a-brac; stocks over 400 whiskeys from around world, but serves only 50 or so (rest, crowding shelves behind bar, are for show; crushed ice produced by hand crank and deafening rattle machine.
Gregans Castle Hotel – Corkscrew Hill; 011-353-065-707-7005;; sweeping mountain views.

Sights & Sites
Bunratty Castle – Limerick-Ennis Road; 011-353-061-360-788;; can arrange medieval banquet.

Sights & Sites
Poulnabrone Dolmen – R480 (5 miles south of Ballyvaughan, 6 miles north-west of Kilnaboy);; means “hole of quern stones”; portal tomb - 1 of approximately 174 in Ireland; dates back to Neolithic period, probably between 4200-2900 BCE.

Sights & Sites
Cliffs of Moher – R478 (7 miles north of Lahinch, in Liscannor parish, at Burren area’s south-western edge); 011-353-065-708-1171; cliffs rise 394' above Atlantic Ocean at Hag’s Head; reach maximum height just north of O’Brien’s Tower (round stone tower), 8 kms away; on clear day, Aran Islands visible in Galway Bay, as are Connemara hills and valleys.

Doonbeg Golf Club – N67; 011-353-065-905-5600 or 866-366-6234;; great hiking on cliffs at Kilkee, sea views, fire places; stunning setting on remote white-capped bay in west County Clare; perfect in every detail; dolphin watching, hiking spa treatments; oceanview suites best.

Moy House – 011-353-065-708-2800;; some rooms with fireplaces and sea views.
Barrtra Seafood Restaurant – Miltown Malbay Road; 011-353-065-708-1280;

Dromoland Castle – Limerick-Ennis Road; 011-353-061-368-144 or 800-346-7007;; former private residence; Waterford crystal chandeliers; tranquil walking trails on property; spa.

Sights & Sites
Gougane Barra – just off Macroom-Glengarriff (R584) Road, west of Ballingeary; Ireland’s 1st national park (1966); beautiful and wild scenery; magnificent Forest Park covers 1K acres; Lee River rises here and flows to Cork Harbor; tiny island in lake, connected to shore by causeway; here that Cork Patron St. Finbarr founds early Christian monastery.

Bars & Nightclubs
Schooner – Barrack Street; 011-353-027-52115; live music sometimes at night.
Snug – Quay; 011-353-027-50057; try mussels.

Ballyvolane House & Blackwater Salmon Fishery – Fermoy; 011-353-025-36349;; extraordinary gardens.

Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa – Beach Road; 011-353-023-883-3143;

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Crawford Art Gallery Café – Emmett Place; 011-353-021-427-4415;; great spot for cake & coffee.
Ballymaloe House – about 20 minutes outside of town; see below (Shanagarry).
Clarion Hotel – Lapp’s Quay; 011-353-021-422-4900;; overlooks River Lee; modern hotel; understated rooms feature flat-screen TVs, free WiFi & tea-coffeemaking facilities; some rooms offer balconies with river views; indoor pool.
Hayfield Manor – Perrott Avenue, College Road; 011-353-021-484-5900;; ivy-clad brickwork & walled gardens; country house charm but inner city convenience; rooms furnished with mahogany antiques & gold brocade; indoor pool is calm haven.
Cafe Paradiso – 16 Lancaster Quay; 011-353-021-427-7939;; vegetarian.
Electric Restaurant – 41 South Mall; 011-353-021-422-2990;; terrace has unrivaled St. Finbarr’s cathedral views; grass-fed Black Angus steaks, fantastic fish.
Farmgate Cafe – 33-34 Princes Street (in English Market); 011-353-021-427-8134;; Irish cuisine.
Jacques – 23 Oliver Plunkett Street; 011-353-021-427-7387;; over 30 years in business; Irish cuisine.
English Market – Princes Street; 011-353-021-000-000;; best market in town; locally produced & organic food in 18th Century covered market.
Sights & Sites
Blackrock Castle – Castle Road (Blackrock, 1 hour walk from Cork); 011-353-021-432-6120;; castle with turrets; looks especially dramatic at sunset.
Crawford Art Gallery – Emmett Place; 011-353-021-480-5042;; national cultural institution public art gallery; dedicated to contemporary & historic art.
Honan Chapel – O’Donovan Rossa Road (at University College Cork); 011-353-021-490-3088;; chapel & liturgical collection date to Irish Arts & Crafts movement late phase (1894-1925); both building & furnishings were designed & produced as single commission; accounts for overall design & style unity; rich interplay of Celto-Byzantine motifs in building fabric & ornate furnishings, altar plate, hangings & vestments; Celtic art & Hiberno-Romanesque architecture traditions blended with tastes for Symbolism (arts) & Art Nouveau popular in Europe before WWI; in Ireland this was known, artistically, as Celtic Twilight (time for rediscovering lost national identity through Celtic art & myths - seen in poetry of W. B. Yeats & plays of J. M. Synge; Chapel is most similar to 12 th Century church of St. Cronan in Roscrea, County Tipperary, while its bell-tower on north wall inspired by round towers of monastic settlements so common in Ireland from 9th Century on; Harry Clarke designed St. Gobnait window (south side); make sure to see mosaic floors, designed to look like rivers.
Huguenot Quarter – area around French Church Street & Carey’s Lane;; pedestrian trips are pleasing muddle of bookshops, clothing, independent restaurants & vintage clothing; ideal for afternoon stroll.
Shandon –; district in Cork city noted for brightly painted streets & Church of St. Anne; climb church tower for great view.

Creagh House – Main Street; 011-353-022-24433;; by River Awbeg; 2-story suite with bay view and fireplace.

Blairs Cove House – Coolcolaghta (near Bantry); 011-353-027-61127;; lovely.
Blairs Cove House – Coolcolaghta (near Bantry); 011-353-027-61127;

Ballymaloe House – Hegarty’s Terrace; 011-353-021-465-2531;; extraordinary gardens.
Ballymaloe House – Hegarty’s Terrace; 011-353-021-465-2531;

Green Gate – Ardvally; 011-353-087-575-798;; converted barns, nice but not luxurious.

Sights & Sites
Glebe House & Gallery (includes St. Columb’s Gardens) – R251 (Tully More); 011-353-074-913-7071;; English painter Derrick Hill bought this 1828 mansion in 1953, providing him with mainland base close to his beloved Tory Island; sumptuously decorated with evident love of all things exotic; real lure here is Hill’s astonishing art collection; besides paintings by Hill & Tory Island’s “naive” artists are works by Picasso, Landseer, Hokusai, Jack B. Yeats & Kokoschka; guided tour takes about 45 minutes; before Hill arrived, house served as rectory & then hotel; lavish gardens can also be toured; cute little cafe.
Tory Island – 14.5 kms off north-west coast;; Ireland’s most remote inhabited island; population of 144.

Mill – Main Street; 011-353-074-913-6985;; 6 rooms, luxurious.
Mill – Main Street; 011-353-074-913-6985;; excellent food.

Rathmullan House – on Loch Swilly; 011-353-074-915-8188;; beautiful garden and beach; indoor pool.

Johnnie Fox’s – 011-353-012-955-647;; try seafood chowder.

Fitzpatrick Castle – Killiney Hill Road; 011-353-012-305-400;; Victorian facade of battlements, towers, and turrets; restored 1741 gem; hilltop grounds have clear Dublin Bay views; wandering lobby that seems to go on forever, filled with comfortable sofas, piano, and working fireplaces; excellent bar, with leather chairs to sink into, and 2 good restaurants.
Sights & Sites
Martello Tower #7 – Tara Hill (at Killiney Avenue & Killiney Hill Road junction); 011-353-08-7288-5522 or 011-353-012-350-777;; located on private land, but open to public; Martello towers are small defensive forts built across British Empire during 19th Century, from Napoleonic Wars onwards; up to 40' h (with 2 floors); round structure and thick walls make them resistant to cannon fire.

Iskeroon Inn – 011-353-066-947-5119;; beach house B&B; 4 acres rambling subtropical gardens; 1 of finest locations in Ireland.

QC’s Townhouse – 3 Main St (Ring of Kerry); 011-353-066-947-224;; 5 rooms may be Kerry’s grooviest.
O’Neill’s Point Seafood Bar – Renard Point; 011-353-066-947-2165; striking blue pub beside Valentia Island ferry terminal; run by O’Neill family for over 150 years; traditional Irish cooking; generous dishes with a strong seafood base; unusually, no chips, desserts, or credit card payments.
QC’s Seafood Bar & Restaurant – 3 Main St (Ring of Kerry); 011-353-066-947-224;; gorgeously situated; great fish & chips.

Boat Yard – Strand Street; 011-353-066-915-0920;; order Dingle crab sampler (Dingle crab chowder, Dingle crab cakes, Dingle crab claws, and Dingle crab quiche).

Iveragh Peninsula
Sights & Sites
Skellig Michael (Irish, Sceilig Mhichíl, or “Great Skellig”) – Portmagee (arrange to depart from here);; larger of 2 Skellig Islands; Christian monastery founded on island between 6-8th Century, continuously occupied until abandoned in late 12th Century; remains on UNESCO World Heritage List; in 8th or 9th Century, West Munster King Duagh fled here after feud with Cashel Kings.

Sheen Falls Lodge – Kenmare; 011-353-064-664-1600;; 300 acre estate with lovely falls and walking trails.
La Cascade – Kenmare (at Sheen Falls Lodge); 011-353-064-664-1600;; excellent.
Sights & Sites
Molly Gallivan’s – 71 Glengarrif Road; 011-353-064-664-0714;; restored rural farm and homstead.

Aghadoe Heights – Aghadoe; 011-353-064-31766;; outside of town, spa with aroma grotto and thermal suite, ultra modern, with sweeping vistas; emphasis on casual at recently expanded spa; from private balcony or thermal suite, admire nearby Killarney lakes and mountains; Zen gardens; acclaimed restaurant, Fredrick’s at Heights.
Killarney Park Hotel – Town Centre; 011-353-064-663-5555;
Smoke House – 8 High Street; 011-353-064-662-0801;; try Kerry Lamb burger.

Carrig Country House – Ring of Kerry; 011-353-066-976-9100;; beautiful hideaway; charming and meticulously restored Victorian residence; on Caragh Lake, with spectacular view across waters to Kerry Mountains; 4-acre gardens contain rare and unusual plants from around world.

Sights & Sites
Dunmore Cave – close to N78 Kilkenny-Castlecomer Road (about 11 km north of Kilkenny City); 011-353-056-776-7726; limestone cave; Viking massacre site in 928 CE; overlooks Dinin River valley; contains just quarter mile passages and descends 150'; some of finest calcite formations in country; Viking artifact site.

Mount Juliet Conrad – Thomastown; 011-353-056-777-3000;; 1.5K acres of meadows, rivers, and woodlands; Georgian mansion 40 miles from Rock of Cashel; good restaurant.

Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt – Powerscourt Estate; 011-353-012-748-888;
Sights & Sites
Powerscourt Waterfall – Powerscourt Estate; 011-353-012-046-000;; impressive formal gardens and waterfall.

County Laois
Ballyfin – Ballyfin Desmesne; 011-353-057-875-5866;; Ireland’s most opulent hotel; set in Slieve Bloom mountains’ foothills.
Sights & Sites
Abbey Sensory Gardens – Main Street (Abbeyleix, at Dove House); 011-353-057-873-1325;; walled gardens of 19th Century Brigidine convent; strongly-scented plants and those with interesting textures that can be touched and smelled; mature lime trees, rose-covered pergola, fernery, hornbeam maze & long herbaceous border.
Aghaboe Abbey – near Rathdowney, on R434 (from Portlaoise head SW on R445, at roundabout take 2nd left onto N7, then turn left for Rathdowney, then left again onto R434);; car-park just past abandoned Abbey; founded in 6th Century by St. Canice; major agriculture, commerce, and learning center; original monastery burned in 1234 & rebuilt as Augustinian priory; nearby, tree-covered remains of Norman motte.
Ballaghmore Castle – Dublin Road (Borris-in-Ossory); 011-353-050-521-453;; situated in beautiful landscape, with excellent walking & mountain climbing; interesting feature is Sheela na Gig, carved in corner stone of outer front-facing wall (plain, half-dead, woman with contorted face and fully exposed vagina).
Cashel Bog – 5.5 kms south of Portlaoise, on Abbeyleix Road (near Crosy Duff Hill); world’s oldest bog body found in this peat bog.
Castle Durrow & Gardens – Durrow; 011-353-057-873-6555;; 30 acres terraced gardens & parkland surround magnificent house; walled organic garden, perennial borders, 18th Century pleasure garden of conifers, woodland walk, Shelly’s “Italian Garden” (with formal flower beds), & path along river joining “Leafy Loops” (walks through Durrow’s scenic countryside).
Emo Court & Gardens – Emo; 011-353-057-862-6573;; situated in Europe’s 2nd largest walled park; neo-classical style house encompassed by beautiful gardens & parkland laid out in 18th Century with formal lawns, lake & woodland walks; features include longest Wellingtonia avenue in Ireland, wooded area (called “Clucker”) with azaleas & rhododendrons, “Grapery” containing unusual trees including weeping beeches & Corsican pines, trails around 25-acre ornamental lake, and ornamental temple.
Fruitlawn Garden – Abbeyleix; 011-353-057-873-0146; or; open to public by appointment & at various points each year in aid of different charities.
Gash Gardens – Castletown (Portlaoise); 011-353-057-873-2247;; 4-acre garden created from paddock; features alpines, rhododendrons, laburnum tunnel, herbaceous borders, island beds, Moon House & trail along Nore River.
Heywood Gardens – Ballinakill; 011-353-056-772-1450;; formal walled gardens designed in 1912 by Sir Edwin Lutyens & probably landscaped by Gertrude Jekyl.
Mountmellick –; quaker community known for lace.
Poet’s cottage – Camross; 011-353-057-867-4348;; named after Patrick Ryan, poet who lived there between 1750-1825; replica thatched-dwelling.
Portarlington –; long established connection with French Hugeunots; Georgian, Hugeunot & Victorian architecture of exceptional quality.
Rock of Dunamaise – 6km east of Portlaoise (along Stradbally Road (N80)); craggy limestone outcrop rising dramatically out of flat plains; 1st fortified in Bronze Age & recorded on Ptolemy’s 140 CE map; ruins seen today are those of 13th Century castle (extensively remodeled in 15th Century & finally destroyed by Cromwell’s henchmen in 1650.
Round Tower of Timahoe – Timahoe (equidistant southeast from Port Laoise & northeast of Abbeyleix (from M7 south, take R425 south to left on R 426), Timahoe village is 10 kms down R 426; 011-353-057-866-4129 (heritage officer);; stands in lovely park-like setting across footbridge across Bauteogue River in village center; extraordinary carved doorway; most elegant round tower in Ireland; carvings of human heads, with flowing beards and mustaches, decorate main entrance, about 5 ms from ground; smaller carvings decorate 2nd story window; built some time in 1100s, on site of religious community founded by St. Mochua around 600 CE; tower rises almost 30 ms & is 17 ms wide at base.
Slieve Blooms Mountains – or; worth seeing are Glenbarrow Waterfall, Monicknew, Catholes & Cut; at over 2.3K hectares, Ireland’s largest state-owned Nature Reserve.

Sights & Sites
Malahide Castle & Gardens – Malahide Demesne; 011-353-01-816-9538;; parts date to 12th Century, with over 260 acres estate parkland.

Sights & Sites
Sally Gap & Lough Tay Drive – take N11 South, take Glendalough exit, and (just before Roundwood) Sally Gap exit (R759); spectacular views of surrounding blanket bog and Wicklow Mountains; 1 of 2 east-to-west passes across Wicklow Mountains and narrow road running through it passes above Lough Tay’s and Lough Dan’s dark waters; passes over Luggula Estate, which covers most of valley as far as Lough Dan; area forms part of walking trail known as Wicklow Way.
Wicklow Mountains National Park – Kilafin, Laragh, Wicklow Co.; 011-353-040-445-800;; covers much of upland Wicklow, approximately 50K acres; includes large areas of mountain blanket bogs, including Lugnaquilla and Liffey Head Bog complexes and Glendalough Wood Nature Reserve; wild Peregrine Falcon and rare orchids; includes monastery built by St. Kevin in 6th Century.

Old Bridge Bed & Breakfast – Slaney Place; 011-353-053-923-4222;; well-situated building, crammed with fascinating, historic bric-a-brac.

Sights & Sites
Curracloe Nature Trail – 011-353-053-914-2211; 800 metres nature trail through seashore sand dunes.
Johnstown Castle Estate – just south of Wexford; 011-353-053-917-1247;; exquisite 19th Century castle on 50 ornamental ground acres; stroll through wooded grounds or relax by castle lakeside with its Gothic towers and waterfalls; walled ornamental gardens and hothouses; shaded picnic area where peacocks strut; castle itself not open to public but onsite museum re Irish famine is.

Bars & Nightclubs
Aunty Lena’s – Main Street; 011-353-061-396-114;
Adare Manor Hotel & Golf Resort – 011-353-061-605-200;; gothic manor amid 840 parkland acres, French gardens, and trout rivers; 52 chimneys and 75 fireplaces; looks like something from spooky bedtime story; lobby has soaring ceilings with crystal chandeliers; excellent restaurant.

Glin Castle – 011-353-068-34173;; fabulous; expensive but worth it with 7 centuries of history.

No. 1 Pery Square – 1 Pery Square (Georgian Quarter); 011-353-061-402-402;; boutique townhouse hotel; built in 1830 and restored with great precision; ornate marble hearth to gilt-framed mirrors, never verges on rococo, but if common areas too vintage, 15 of 20 guest rooms in modern, clubbier style; 5 period-style rooms have expansive sash windows overlooking garden; single penthouse suite offers combination new and old, with multiple flatscreen televisions, private bar, and top-floor views over Limerick and surrounding Clare mountains; drawing room offers classic afternoon tea; basement is spa.
Brasserie One – 1 Pery Square (Georgian Quarter, at No. 1 Pery Square Hotel & Spa); 011-353-061-402-402;; at once upscale and congenial; tasting nights, guest chefs, and wine flights.

Bars & Nightclubs
Abbey Tavern – Main Street; 011-353-065-682-5525;; in business since 1802; beautifully restored.
Abbey Tavern – Main Street; 011-353-065-682-5525;; in business since 1802; beautifully restored.
Abbey Tavern – Main Street; 011-353-065-682-5525;; in business since 1802; beautifully restored.
Sights & Sites
Quin Abbey – roughly 9 miles from Ennis; 011-353-065-682-8366;; ruined Franciscan abbey or friary; built in Gothic style in early 15th Century on earlier Norman castle remains; National Monument.

Bars & Nightclubs
E.J. King’s – Square; 011-353-095-21330;

Ashford Castle – 011-353-094-954-6003;; castle dating to 13th Century against background of forest, lakes, and mountains; rooms have fireplaces.

Bars & Nightclubs
Ciaran’s Bar – 1 Francis Street; 011-353-065-684-0180.
Knox’s Pub & Bistro – 18 Abbey Street; 011-353-065-682-2871;

Bars & Nightclubs
Matt Molloy’s Bar – Bridge Street; 011-353-098-26655;
John’s Bar – Peter Street; 011-353-087-286-0903.

Sheridans – Virginia Road Station; 011-353-046-924-5110;

Bellinter House Hotel – 011-353-046-903-0900;; stately, Georgian home on hill overlooking river; 45 min. north of Dublin; pool and spa; meticulously restored Palladian gem; designed in 1750 by Richard Castle, architect who created Dublin’s Parliament Building; on 12 acres; 37 rooms; 2 pools, 1 indoors; screening room; excellent food; Room #1 in East Wing is spacious with dramatic, vaulted ceiling.

Temple House – Templehouse Demesne; 011-353-071-918-3329;; hugely impressive grounds; perfect place for wedding.

Sights & Sites
Cahir Castle – city center; 011-353-018-366-111; one-time Butler family stronghold; impressive keep, tower, and much of its original defensive structure; 1 of Ireland’s best preserved and largest castles; situated on Suir River rocky island.

Cashel Palace Hotel – Main Street; 011-353-062-62707;; originally built in 1730 as Irish church archbishop residence; mammoth red-brick Palladian mansion has been hotel for over 30 years; within walled grounds; updated and filled with antiques; corniced ceilings, Corinthian pillars, Kilkenny marble mantelpieces, and paneled early Georgian staircase; guest rooms have warm, traditional look and vast bathrooms, while 10 rooms in Mews House are smaller and more modern (be sure to ask for room with Cashel Rock view, more expensive); well-tended gardens holds mulberry bushes planted in 1702 to commemorate Queen Anne’s coronation.
Bishop’s Buttery – Main Street; 011-353-062-62707;; splendid floodlit Rock views.
Sights & Sites
G.P.A. Bolton Library – Friary Street; 011-353-062-61232;; occupies small, 1836 building found on Cathedral grounds; oldest book among 12K volumes is monks’ encyclopaedia dated 1168; also owns 2 pages from Chaucer’s Book of Fame (printed in London in 1483), signed note by Jonathan Swift, and religious silverware collection.
Bru Boru Cultural Centre – Rock Lane; 011-353-062-61122;
Cashel Heritage Centre – Main Street (former Town Hall); 011-353-062-62511;; Charters of Cashel, King Charles II (1663), and James II (1687) on permanent display; craft shop stocks local crafts (Rossa Pottery and Winnie Looby textiles, Cashel Blue Cheese, jams/preserves, and books).
Rock of Cashel – St. Patrick’s Rock of Cashel; 011-353-062-61437;; name derives from Caiseal Mumhan (meaning Munster stone fort); Rock of Cashel consists of St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Cormaic’s Chapel (1127); main structure, Cathedral, built in 13th Century; occupies Donal Mor O’Brien’s Cathedral site (1169); Coronation Stone (4th Century, with St. Patrick’s Cross (12th Century) set into it), housed in Vicars Choral (fully restored, 15th Century building; site (limestone outcrop dominating skyline) on which Conall Corc built defensive position in 4th-5th Century; St. Patrick’s Rock became Ireland’s ecclesiastical capital; originally, Munster Kings’ seat until Ireland High King Brian Boru came to power; in 1101 Muircheartach O’Brien handed Rock over to Church.

Richmond House – 011-353-058-54278;; 18th Century home; rooms 5, 7 & 10 are best.

Bars & Nightclubs
Red House Pub – North Main Street; 011-353-058-54248; good place for Guiness.
Sailing – Tony O’Gallagher’s boat, Maeve, can be rented for river trips.
Sights & Sites
Knockmealdown Mountains – head east on N72 for 6½ km (4 mi) to Cappoquin (well-known angling center), then pick up R669 north into Knockmealdown Mountains; route signposted as Vee Gap Road (Vee Gap is summit); superb Tipperary plain, Galtee Mountains, and Slievenamon views; if day clear, should be able to see Rock of Cashel, ancient seat of Munster kings; just before enter Vee Gap, look for 6-foot-high stone mound on road’s left side, which marks Colonel Grubb’s grave, local landowner who liked view so much he arranged to be buried here standing up so he could look out over scene for eternity.
Lismore Castle – city center; 011-353-015-854-424;; Devonshire Dukes’ Irish home since 1753 and among most spectacular castle in Ireland; situated overlooking Blackwater valley and rolling, wooded hills to Knockmealdown Mountains beyond; once occupied by Sir Walter Raleigh.

Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Club – Island; 011-353-051-878-203;; situated on own private Island; luxurious; 18-hole Championship Golf Course; can stay in Castle Gardens holiday home; 800 year-old Castle comprises 19 spacious guest rooms, which offer luxurious accommodation and stunning views; award-winning Munster Dining Room.
Sheridans – Dunmore Road (at Ardkeen Quality Food Store); 011-353-051-874-620;
Sights & Sites
Hook Peninsula – coastline offers 14 beaches; pretty fishing villages, bird watching on Bannow Estuary mudflats; deep sea angling; snorkeling and swimming; estuaries, rivers, valleys; rolling hills; 2 castles and lighthouse.
Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre – Kilbarry; 011-353-051-332-500;; arrange tour.

Saturday, July 30, 2011


Sights & Sites
Dark Hedges – off Bregagh Road; from Belfast, take M2 north out of Belfast and look for A26 (just north of Antrim), take A26 north toward and around Ballymena, about 7 miles past Ballymena look for where road forks with into A44 (Drones Road, toward Armoy & Ballycastle), take A44 for another 7 miles or so, and before reaching Armoy, take left onto Bregagh Road, until, after about 1 mile, cross over B15 (Gracehill Road), and stay straight for another mile until you cross over Ballykenver Road, then follow bend and prepare to say “Wow.”

Sights & Sites
Ballintoy Harbour – between Giants Causeway & Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge;; looks out to Rathlin Island and beyond to Scotland; exceptional for walking; narrow, winding road carries down to harbor; harbor built from limestone blocks and surrounded on land-side by limestone cliffs; well-sheltered from Atlantic Ocean by black basalt islands.
Dunnaglea-Larry Bane Bay – just west of Ballintoy Harbour; spectacular coastline containing dazzling chalk cliffs that dominate coast for almost 4km; fossils.
Sights & Sites
Fair Head & Murlough Bay – signposted off A2 (east & west of Ballycastle);; known for outstanding beauty and remote location, with views across ocean to Rathlin Island, Mull of Kintyre, Islay & various other Scottish islands; take Torr Head Scenic Route to get there.

Sights & Sites
Glenarm Castle – 2 Castle Street (Glenarm); 011-44-028-2884-1203;; since 1750 Glenarm has been MacDonnell family seat; present 14th Antrim Earl lives in Glenarm Castle, hidden behind impressive wall; castle itself closed to public – except during Tulip Festival on May bank holiday weekend & for 2 days in July when Highland Games competition takes place – but you can visit lovely walled garden anytime.

Bars & Nightclubs
Fibber Magee – 38-42 Great Victoria Street (Robinsons’ rear bar, across street from Hotel Europa); 011-44-028-9024-7447;; Belfast stalwart.
Crown Bar – 46 Great Victoria Street; 011-44-028-9024-3187;; among most beautiful bars on earth.
Duke of York Pub – 7-11 Commercial Court; 011-44-028-9024-1062;; traditional Belfast bar crammed with original mirrors and memorabilia.
Grill Room – 10 Donegall Square South (in Ten Square hotel); 011-44-028-9024-1001;
John Hewitt – 51 Donegall Street (in Cathedral Quarter); 011-44-028-9023-3768;; live sessions on Tuesdays.
Kelly’s Cellars – 30-32 Bank Square (in Cathedral Quarter, few blocks walk from Merchant Hotel); 011-44-028-9024-6058;; built in 1720, 1 of Belfast’s oldest pubs.
Maddens – 74 Berry Street (just down street from Kelly’s Cellars); 011-44-028-9024-4114;; opened in 1751; live sessions every night, starting at 9:00 p.m. and going until 1:00 a.m. on weekends.
Shu – 253 Lisburn Road; 011-44-028-9038-1655;
Malmaison – 34-38 Victoria Street; 011-44-028-9022-0200;; rooms in lushly furnished, 62-room hotel are smallish but smartly outfitted.
Merchant Hotel – 35-39 Waring Street; 011-44-028-9023-4888;; former 19th Century bank; stay in Philip Larkin Suite (has oversize double shower) or Seamus Heaney (best views of city and countryside); also, Room 106’s bathroom has 1 of bank’s original vault doors; make sure to have afternoon tea in “Great Room” and see rooftop garden gnomes.
Ten Square – 10 Donegall Square South; 011-44-028-9024-1001;; 23 rooms; Asian-influenced bedrooms and bathrooms are huge; reasonable rates; good bar and restaurant.
AM:PM – 67-69 Botanic Avenue; 011-44-028-9023-9443;; moderately expensive.
AM:PM – 38 Upper Arthur Street; 011-44-028-9024-9009;; moderately expensive.
Deanes – 36-40 Howard Street; 011-44-028-9033-1134;; longest consecutive Michelin star maintenance (11 years) in Northern Ireland.
CoCo – 7-11 Linenhall Street; 011-44-028-9031-1150;; chic & modern; locally-sourced menu.
Deanes Deli – 1 College Gardens (near Queen’s University); 011-44-028-9038- 2111;; mid-priced.
Ginger Bistro – 7-8 Hope Street; 011-44-028-9024-4421;; generously portioned dishes, all under $15 at lunch; homey and elegant; try fisherman’s pie or pork belly.
Grill Room – 10 Donegall Square South (in Ten Square Hotel); 011-44-028-9024-1001;
Mourne Seafood Bar – 34-36 Bank Street; 011-44-028-9024-8544;
Nicks Warehouse – 35-39 Hill Street (in Cathedral Quarter); 011-44-028-9043-9690;
Shu – 253 Lisburn Road; 011-44-028-9038-1655;
Simply Deanes – Outlet at Bridgewater Park; 011-44-028-4062-7220;; salads and sandwiches.
Tedfords – 5 Donegall Quay; 011-44-028-9043-4000;
Harper Taxi Tours – 011-44-028-9074-2711 or 011-44-077-1175-7178 (cell);; driver Ken Harper narrates history from C.S. Lewis’ birthplace to shipyard where Titanic built, to elaborate murals on Shankill and Falls Roads, depicting “troubles.”
Ewing’s Fishmongers – 124 Shankill Road; 011-44-028-9032-5534;; best smoked salmon in Ireland.
Sights & Sites
Albert Memorial Clock – Queens Square; 011-44-028-9031-2424;; erected in 1865 in Gothic style to commemorate Queen Victoria’s consort, Prince Albert; at 113', offered excellent vantage point for birds-eye Titanic launch view; built on land reclaimed from Lagan River; features Prince Albert statue, as well as ornately carved crowned lions and floral decorations.
Botanic Avenue – lively after-work scene.
Botanical Gardens – College Park; 011-44-028-9031-4762;; contains 2 important buildings, Palm House & Tropical Ravine, as well as a children’s playground, bowling green, walking routes, rose garden & assorted tropical plants, mature trees & flower beds.
Crumlin Road Gaol – 53-55 Crumlin Road; 011-44-28-9074-1500;; former prison in north Belfast; only Victorian era prison remaining in Northern Ireland (out of service since 1996).
Linen Hall Library – 17 Donegall Square North; 011-44-028-9032-1707; founded in 1788 by artisan group as Belfast Reading Society; in 1792 became Belfast Society for Promoting Knowledge; in 1802 moved into permanent premises in White Linen Hall; leading Irish studies center in northern Ireland; also houses collections devoted to genealogy, poet Robert Burns & northern Irish performing arts.
Queen’s University Belfast – University Road; 011-44-028-9024-5133;; stunning building in lovely corner of Belfast.
St. George’s City Food & Garden Market – 12-20 East Bridge Street; 011-44-028-9024-6609;; Saturdays from 9-3; Victorian covered market where jazz band plays while you shop.
Titanic Ulster – Queens Island; 011-44-028-9076-6386;; visitor attraction & monument to Belfast’s maritime heritage; on former Harland & Wolff shipyard site; make sure to see S.S. Nomadic (on Hamilton Dock, next to Titanic Belfast exhibition center (, which was original tender ship to Titanic.
Ulster Museum – Botanic Gardens; 011-44-0845-608-0000;; 8K square ms public display space; applied & fine arts, archaeology, botany, ethnography, geology, industrial archaeology, local history, numismatics, Spanish Armada treasures, local history, numismatics, industrial archaeology, botany & zoology.
Victoria Square – 1 Victoria Square (Town Centre); 011-44-028-9032-2277;; shopping; also, excellent city views from glass dome.

Sights & Sites
Dunluce Castle – 87 Dunluce Road (between Portballintrae & Portrush, connected to mainland by bridge); 011-44-028-2073-1938;; in 13th Century 2nd Ulster Earl Richard Óg de Burgh built 1st castle at Dunluce (in McQuillan family hands by 1513); earliest features are 2 large drum towers about 30' in diameter on eastern side, both relics of stronghold built here by McQuillans after they became lords of Route; McQuillans were Lords of Route from late 13th Century until displaced by MacDonnell after losing 2 major battles against them during mid & late-16th Century; Dunluce Castle later became home to chief of Clan MacDonnell of Antrim & Clan MacDonald of Dunnyveg (from Scotland); in 1584, Antrim Glens seized by Sorley Boy MacDonnell who takes castle, keeping it for himself & improving it in Scottish style; Sorley Boy swore allegiance to Queen Elizabeth I & his son Randal made 1st Antrim Earl by King James I; 4 years later, Girona, galleass from Spanish Armada wrecked in storm on rocks nearby; ship cannon installed in gatehouses & remaining cargo sold, funds being used to restore castle; MacDonnell’s granddaughter Rose born in castle in 1613; Dunluce Castle served as Antrim Earl seat until MacDonnells’ impoverishment in 1690, following Battle of Boyne; since that time, castle deteriorated & parts scavenged to serve as materials for nearby buildings; in 2011, major archaeological excavations found significant remains of “lost town of Dunluce,” razed to ground in Irish uprising of 1641; lying adjacent to Dunluce Castle, town built around 1608 by Randall MacDonnell, 1st Antrim Earl & pre-dates official Plantation of Ulster; may have contained most revolutionary housing in Europe when built in early 17th Century, including indoor toilets that only had started to be introduced around Europe at time & complex street network based on grid system; Dunluce Castle thought to be inspiration for “Cair Paravel” in C.S. Lewis’ Chronicles of Narnia; in 1973 castle appeared on inner gatefold of multi-million selling Led Zeppelin album Houses of Holy; Flight of Doves (1971) filmed here; Belfast-Derry railway line run by Northern Ireland Railways connects to Coleraine & along branch line to Portrush; scenic walk from Portrush alongside Dunluce Castle & Giant’s Causeway & Bushmills Railway in Bushmills.
Giant’s Causeway – 44 Causeway Road; 011-44-028-2073-1855;; UNESCO World Heritage site; geological formation on northeast Atlantic coast; jagged headland of neatly packed columns that point towards Scotland.

Sights & Sites
Cushendun – sits off A2 coast road between Ballycastle & Cushendall; sheltered harbor at the Dun River mouth and Glendun (1 of 9 Glens of Antrim); Mull of Kintyre in Scotland is only about 15 miles away across North Channel and can be seen easily on clear days; most of village and parkland around Glenmona to north owned by National Trust.

Downpatrick (includes Castleward & Strangford)
Sights & Sites
Audley Castle & Field – Audley’stown Road (Castleward); 011-44-028-9054-3030;; 15th Century castle, on rocky height overlooking Strangford Lough; 3-story tower house named after its 16th Century owner, John Audley.
Castle Ward – Strangford (between Downpatrick & Strangford); 011-44-028-4488-1204;; 18th Century National Trust property; overlooks Strangford Lough; 820 acres; landscaped gardens, fortified tower house, Victorian laundry, theater, restaurant, shop, saw mill & working corn mill.
Inch Abbey – off main road to Belfast; 011-44-028-9181-1491;; large, ruined monastic site on Quoile River’s north bank in hollow between 2 drumlins; features early Gothic architecture.

Sights & Sites
Tollymore Forest Park – Bryansford Road; 011-44-028-4372-2428;; Northern Ireland’s 1st state forest park; 1.6K acres; at Mourne Mountains’ foot; panoramic views over surrounding mountains and sea; 4 walking trails signposted by different colored arrows; features many follies including barn dressed up to look like church, stone cones atop gate piers, and gothic-style gate arches; walks along Shimna River marked by many natural and artificial features; experimental forest plots of exotic trees such as monkey puzzle, eucalyptus, giant redwoods & Monterey pines.

Sights & Sites
Downhill Beach – near Castlerock (can go to 66 Portstewart Road, Coleraine, for Visitor Information); 011-44-028-7034-7034;; 11km sandy stretch; birdwatching, nature walks, sand dunes & waterfalls; make sure to see Mussenden Temple, among Northern Ireland’s most photographed buildings.


(does not include city of Los Angeles, Orange County, Santa Barbara, San Diego or Palm Springs)

Bars & Nightclubs
Trout’s Nightclub, Inc. – 805 North Chester Avenue; 661-399-6700;; in November 1931, opened doors; eventually became America’s leading institution for building & preserving iconic music genre known as “Bakersfield Sound”; free live music, karaoke, dancing & scheduled activities; living museum with digital archives of 100Ks pictures, video hours & priceless historical memorabilia; open 7 days week, having only ever closed 4 days in over 79 years.
Sights & Sites
Ablin House – 4260 Country Club Drive;; private residence with no public tours; only Wright structure in California that you cannot even glimpse of from street; gate is only thing you will be able to see from there; might catch glimpse if you play golf on adjacent golf course.

Sights & Sites
Red Rock Canyon State Park – 37749 Abbott Drive; 661-946-6092;; scenic desert cliffs, buttes and spectacular rock formations.

Sights & Sites
Shambala Preserve – 6867 Soledad Canyon Road; 661-268-8809;; Tippie Hedren’s zoo.

Long Beach
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Berlin – 420 East 4th Street (East Village Arts District); 562-435-0600;; coffee, hot chocolate, and/or tea.
Coffee Cup Cafe – 3734 East 4th Street (East Village Arts District); 562-433-3292;; breakfast and lunch.
Shortnin Bread – 401 East 3rd Street (East Village Arts District); 562-257-0016;; bakery.
Bars & Nightclubs
Beachwood BBQ & Brewing – 210 East 3rd Street; 562-436-4020;; brewpub.
Congregation Ale House – 201 East Broadway; 562-432-2337;; stained glass, gimmicky, but good craft beers.
Retro Row, 4th Street Vine – 2142 East 4th Street (East Village Arts District); 562-343-5463;; live music on weekends.
Seabird Jazz Lounge – 730 East Broadway (at Roscoe’s Chicken & Waffles); 562-437-8355;; bar in soul food restaurant; fireplace in evening; Saturday nights, live music.
Sir Winston’s – 1126 Queens Highway (at Queen Mary Hotel); 562-499-1657;; ship’s dining room.
Wine Down Lounge – 210 East Ocean Boulevard (at Breakers Hotel); 562-983-2703;; in former grand hotel; also serves tapas.
Dockside Boat & Bed – Dock 5, Rainbow Harbor; 562-436-3111 or 800-436-2574;; 6 converted, luxury yachts that serve as B&B; try to bunk on 54' Stephens motor yacht.
Hotel Maya – 700 Queensway Drive; 562-435-7676 or 800-445-8667;; like stylish Miami resort; excellent restaurant.
Hotel Queen Mary – 1126 Queens Highway; 562-499-1657 or 877-342-0738;; historic hotel in converted passenger liner.
Beachwood BBQ & Brewing – 210 East 3rd Street; 562-436-4020;; brewpub.
Delius Restaurant – 2951 Cherry Avenue (Signal Hill); 562-426-0694;; 4 miles from downtown Long Beach; worth special trip; 7-course prix fixe menu changes monthly; ordering sustainable salmon entree gets you free admission to Aquarium of Pacific.
Kafe Neo – 2800 East 4th Street (East Village Arts District); 562-987-1210;; Greek; especially for brunch.
Roscoe’s Chicken & Waffles – 730 East Broadway; 562-437-8355;; soul food restaurant.
Siem Reap Asian Cuisine – 1810 East Anaheim Street (Cambodia Town); 562-591-7414;; Cambodian food in cavernous space; bar.
Steamed – 801 East 3rd Street (East Village Arts District); 562-437-1122;; exceptionally well-prepared, organic and steamed Cal-Mex food (burritos and quesadillas) in converted bungalow.
Cali Bike Tours – 5318 East 2nd Street, #585; 562-334-2453;; bike tours.
Long Beach Hydro Bikes – 110 North Marina Drive; 562-546-2493;; water bike tours in Alamitos Bay; can fit 2 people and dog.
Bow-Tiki Boutique – 322 Elm Avenue (East Village Arts District); 808-280-8563;; vintage travel gear.
Fingerprints – 420 East 4th Street (East Village Arts District); 562-433-4996;; among LA area’s last great record stores; check website for coming appearances.
inretrospect – 2122 East 4th Street (East Village Arts District); 562-433-6600;; 2nd-hand clothing.
Jj Rowe – 316 Elm Avenue (East Village Arts District); 562-353-7693;; men’s wear (for “man and his cool kids”).
Port – 402 St. Louis Avenue (East Village Arts District); 562-434-7678;; 2nd-hand clothing, nautically-themed.
Sights & Sites
Aquarium of Pacific – 100 Aquarium Way; 562-590-3100;
Ferris Wheel – 95 South Pine Avenue (at Pike at Rainbow Harbor); 562-432-8325;
Frank House – 82 Rivo Altao Canal; also known as “Case Study House #25”; 2-story house designed by Killingsworth, Brady, and Smith & Assoc. in 1962; sits on canal in Long Beach; reflecting pool with stepping stones leads to huge front door and inside to 18' high courtyard.
Hotel Queen Mary – 1126 Queens Highway; 562-499-1657;; historic hotel in converted passenger liner; also serves as theme park; across water from ferris wheel.
Pacific Island Ethnic Art Museum – 695 Alamitos Avenue; 562-216-4170;
Retro Row – East 4th Street (East Village Arts District); high-end antique shops and 2nd-hand clothing stores.

San Fernando Valley (includes Canoga Park, Chatsworth, Granada Hills, Mission Hills, Northridge, Reseda, Sherman Oaks, Studio City, Toluca Lake, Van Nuys & West Hills)
Bars & Nightclubs

Stovepiper Lounge – 19563 Parthenia Street (Northridge); 818-886-2526;; timeworn cocktail lounge with cool, dark interior of off-Strip casino.
Art’s Delicatessen & Restaurant – 12224 Ventura Boulevard (Studio City); 818-762-1221;; Hollywood exec breakfast and lunch hangout; considered “power breakfast” place.
Asanebo – 11941 Ventura Boulevard (Studio City); 818-760-3348; sushi; try honey-breaded oysters.
Bistro Garden – 12950 Ventura Bouleard (Studio City); 818-501-0202;; among LA-area’s prettiest dining rooms; retro; continental food.
Bokado – 12345 Ventura Boulevard (Studio City); 818-752-9222; sharp Spanish café and market; can sit on sidewalk; tapas.
Brent’s – 19565 Parthenia Street (Northridge); 818-886-5679;; 35 year-old restaurant with cheesy, faux-stained-glass façade; great, traditional, Jewish deli.
Carillo’s Mexican Deli – 19744 Sherman Way (Canoga Park); 818-887-6118.
Go’s Mart – 22330 Sherman Way, #C12 (Canoga Park); 818-704-1459; “sushi Shangri-la”; 8-seat counter.
Harvest Bar – 15030 Ventura Boulevard (Sherman Oaks); 818-889-1765;; this is strictly healthfood; bowls with 6 varieties of grains, etc., no dairy & no refined sugar; really just for lunch or snack.
It’s All Good House of Kabob – 6800 Reseda Boulevard (Reseda); 818-757-7702; Persian food.
Munch Box – 21532 Devonshire Street (Chatsworth); 818-998-9240; hickory burger; yellow, hutch-like building from 1950s.
Paty’s Restaurant – 10001 Riverside Drive (Toluca Lake); 818-761-0041;; since 1960, serving Monte Cristo sandwiches; diner.
Encino Farmers Market – 17400 Victory Boulevard (Van Nuys);; Sundays, 8-1.
Sights & Sites
Adams Residence – 7400 Tampa Avenue (Reseda, at Valerio Street); or; 1939 Lloyd Wright home (i.e., by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son); wee, pitched roof cottage.
Case Study House #1 – 10152 Toluca Lake Avenue (Toluca Lake); JR Davidson (with Greta Davidson) designed this house in 1948 (his 2nd, see Case Study House #1); intended for hypothetical family with 2 working parents and designed to require minimum maintenance.
Joseph Eichler Tract Houses – Balboa Highlands;; modernist, working class, mid-20th Century homes in pristine condition.
San Fernando Rey de España Mission – 15151 San Fernando Mission Boulevard (Mission Hills); 818-361-0186;; impeccably preserved Spanish colonial era mission; museum; profoundly serene experience.
Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space – Victory Boulevard (West Hills, at Gilmore Street);; nearly 3K acre expanse of native oak savanna, which extends into Simi Valley.

Sierra Madre (includes La Canada Flintridge & Mount Wilson)
Sights & Sites
Mount Wilson Observatory – Red Box-Mount Wilson Road (La Canada Flintridge); 626-440-9016;
Mount Wilson Trail – 189 East Mira Monte Avenue (Sierra Madre);; 12.6 mile lightly trafficked out & back trai; only recommended for very experienced adventurers; waterfall.

Glen Ivy Hot Springs & Spa – 25000 Glen Ivy Road; 951-277-3529;

Rancho Mirage
Villa Abbate – 69-820 Highway 111; 760-321-6835;; Italian with excellent veal parmigiana and homemade pasta; elegant; best tiramisu in America.
Sights & Sites
Sunnylands – 37977 Bobe Hope Drive; 760-328-2829;; former Annenberg estate.

San Bernardino
Action Zipline Tours – 41647 Big Bear Boulevard (Big Bear Lake); 909-866-0390;; guided tree-climbing tours.
Sights & Sites
Big Bear Lake Park & Reservoir – 38925 North Shore Drive (Fawnskin); 909-866-2917;; visit just for pine scent.
San Bernardino National Forest – 602 South Tippecanoe Avenue; 909-382-2600;; wild lands designated National Forest more than 100 years ago; outdoor year-around recreation destination; spans 679K acres in Riverside & San Bernardino counties.

Borrego Springs
Sights & Sites
Liar Peg Leg Smith Monument – Henderson Canyon Road (8 miles east on Highway 22, couple miles past airport, as Pegleg Road curves east, fork left onto Henderson Canyon Road, and monument is few 100 yards on right); official monument to liar; Gold Rush era con artist named Thomas Long Smith, or “Peg Leg Smith”; Peg Leg Smith was “mountain man, prospector, and spinner of tall tales,” who lived from 1801-1866; “monument” is large rock pile and stone historical marker; wooden sign advises: “Let those who seek Peg Leg’s gold add 10 rocks to this pile”; local man, Harry Oliver, brought Peg Leg back to life when he formed Peg Leg Club in 1916; rock pile created in late 1940s by “Desert Steve,” who developed appreciation for Great Deceiver; annual Liars Contest held at site every April Fool’s Day.

Rancho Santa Fe
Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa – 5921 Valencia Circle; 852-756-1123 or 800-548-3664;; recently renovated, Mediterranean-style resort; 49 guest suites and villas.

Santa Ysabel
Sights & Sites
Himalaya Tourmaline Mine – 26439 Highway 76; 775-225-4245 (call to make sure open);; located at Lake Henshaw in beautiful Mesa Grande; gem & crystal dig open to public; dig & screen through ore from world famous Himalaya Mine; minerals that can be found include pink & green tourmaline, black tourmaline, quartz crystals, spessertine garnet, lepidolite, clevelandite & variety of others.

Cass House Inn – 222 North Ocean Avenue; 805-995-3669;
Hoppe’s Garden Bistro – 78 North Ocean Avenue; 805-995-1006;; fine dining; Craftsman-style bungalow with ocean views and excellent wine list.
Rudell’s Smokehouse – 101 D Street; 805-995-5028;; known for smoked salmon tacos; very casual, oceanfront spot.
Good Clean Fun – 136 Ocean Front Lane; 805-995-1993;; kayak tours and surf lessons.
Brown Butter Cookie Company – 98 North Ocean Avenue; 805-995-2076;; sea-salt-topped, shortbread-like cookie with cult-like following.

Sights & Sites
Mullin Automotive Museum – 1421 Emerson Avenue; 805-385-5400;; large collection Bugattis.


(includes Cabazon, Desert Hot Springs, Indian Wells, Indio, Joshua Tree (which, in turn, includes Landers, Pioneertown, Twentynine Palms, Westmorland & Wonder Valley) & La Quinta)

Hadley Fruit Orchards – 47993 Morongo Trail (Cabazon); 951-849-5255;; great date shake.
Shields Date Garden – 80225 California Highway 111 (Indio); 760-775-0902;; includes cafe, date tree garden full of biblical statuary & demonstrations; great date shake.
Westmorland Date Shake – 119 West Main Street (Westmoreland); 760-550-4404;; great date shake & pizza.

Ace Hotel Bar – 701 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-325-9900;
Ingleside Inn – 200 West Ramon Road; 760-325-2323; dancing and music at piano bar every night; old-school style.
Melvyn’s Restaurant & Lounge – 200 West Ramon Road; 760- 325-2323;; in hotel’s secluded gardens; fully restored 1895 carved oak and mahogany bar.
Palms Bar & Restaurant – 83131 Amboy Road (Twentynine Palms); 760-361-2810;; scratched pool tables and country-western juke box.
Pappy & Harriet’s – 53688 Pioneertown Road (Pioneertown); 760-365-5956;; live music under stars.
Torme’s – 360 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-1773;; owned by Mel Torme’s daughter; live music.

Ace Hotel & Swim Club – 701 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-325-9900;; part of avant garde chain; loud, hipster haven; clean, quirky; great pool and bar.
Chateau at Lake la Quinta – 78-120 Caleo Bay Drive (La Quinta); 760-564-7332 or 888-226-4546;; exclusive boutique hotel.
Colony Palms Hotel – 572 North Indian Canyon Drive; 760-969-1800 or 800-557-2187;; home to 1930s brothel and speakeasy; fully renovated in 2008; Spanish colonial hotel has 56 guest rooms with bright, Moroccan-inspired interiors; hibiscus-filled courtyard and pool; Moroccan spa; poolside restaurant among Palm Springs’ best.
Circle C Lodge – 6340 El Rey Avenue (Twentynine Palms); 760-367-7615;; nice, old-school motel with pool and spacious rooms.
Harmony Motel – 71161 Twentynine Palms Highway (Twentynine Palms); 760-367-3351;; where U2 stayed when they were recording “Joshua Tree”; affordable, simple rooms for 1-2.
Hotel Lautner – 67710 San Antonio Street (Desert Hot Springs); 760-832-5288;; inspired 4-module complex made of concrete, glass, redwood, and steel; worth special trip.
Ingleside Inn – 200 West Ramon Road; 760-325-0046 or 800-772-6655;; quiet desert resort retreat near Palm Springs’ historic village; built in 1920s in Spanish style; 30 rooms; 2 acre former estate; pool; restaurant.
Korakia Pensione – 257 South Patencio Road; 760-864-6411;; blends Tangier with Mediterranean; begin day with complimentary full-cooked breakfast in Moroccan courtyard; heated pool; spa; library; complimentary bicycles; Moroccan tea service; lanterns and fire-pits; classic and foreign films on screen.
Miramonte Resort & Spa – 45000 Indian Wells Lane (Indian Wells); 760-341-2200 or 800-237-2926;
Mojave Sands Hotel – 62121 Twentynine Palms Highway (Joshua Tree); 760-974-9420;; beautifully renovated, mid-century modern; no television.
Orbit In – 562 West Arenas Road; 760-323-3585 or 877-996-7248;; campy and modern.
Parker Palm Springs – 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-770-5000 or 800-543-4300;; on 13-acre estate with 4 pools.
Pretty Vacant Properties – Joshua Tree;; 2 units (Rosa Muerta & Acido Dorado); 2 custom-made, architectural experiments (by architect Robert Stone); gorgeous.
Ritz Carlton Rancho Mirage – 68900 Frank Sinatra Drive; 760-321-8282 or 800-241-3333;; state-of-art spa; of 244 rooms, 26 of 79 on 1st floor have private, fire-pit equipped patios.
Riviera Resort & Spa – 1600 North Indian Canyon Drive; 760-327-8311 or 866-588-8311;; some original rooms still have marble-clad bathrooms and zebra-wood accents; otherwise, dumpy.
Saguaro Palm Springs – 1800 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-323-1711;; transformed holiday inn.
Sakura Bed & Breakfast Inn – 1677 North Via Miraleste; 760-327-0705;; ryokan-like bed & breakfast.
Spin & Margie’s Desert Hideaway – 6920-6923 Sunkist Road (Joshua Tree); 760-366-9124;; hacienda-style inn with 4 tricked-out suites, decorated with hippie, Mexican, and Wild West stuff.
Spring Resort & Spa – 12699 Reposo Way (Desert Hot Springs); 760-251-6700;; boutique.
Twentynine Palms Inn – 73950 Inn Avenue (Twentynine Palms); 760-367-3505;; classic historic desert retreat featuring real oasis, private courtyard cabins, poolside cocktails, and restaurant.
Two Bunch Palms Resort – 67425 Two Bunch Palms Trail (Desert Hot Springs); 760-288-7803 or 800-472-4334;; low key, whisper resort on natural hot springs; movie The Player filmed here.
Viceroy – 415 South Belardo Drive; 760-320-4117 or 800-439-3719;; glamorous but low-key.
Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn – 412 Tahquitz Canyon Way; 760-320-0771;; 8-bedroom, Mediterranean villa; Albert Einstein frequently visited; Clark Gable and Carole Lombard stayed on their honeymoon; rooms filled with antiques; room service from Le Vallauris, across street.

Birba – 622 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-5678;; beer and pizza.
Cactusberry – 116 La Plaza Street; 760-325-3228; frozen yoghurt.
Cheeky’s Restaurant – 622 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-7595;; market-driven dishes based on local ingredients.
Copley’s on Palm Canyon – 621 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-9555;; classic stand-by; part of Cary Grant’s former home; elegant outdoor terrace.
Crossroads Cafe & Tavern – 61715 Route 62 (Joshua Tree, on Twentynine Palms Highway); 760-366-5414;; hearty breakfasts and lunches; also serves dinner; open 7 am-9 pm.
J.T. Country Kitchen Restaurant – 61768 Twentynine Palms Highway (Joshua Tree); 760-366-8988;; breakfast stop.
Jiao – 515 North Palm Canyon Drive, Suite B10; 760-321-1424;; operated by Cheeky's owners; twists on Asian dishes; art installations.
Ristorante Mamma Gina – 73-705 El Paseo (Palm Desert); 760-568-9898; mammagina; since 1956; genuine Italian.
Melvyn’s Restaurant & Lounge – 200 West Ramon Road; 760- 325-2323;; in hotel’s secluded gardens; fully restored 1895 carved oak and mahogany bar; numerous antiques, waiters in linen jackets and photographs from long ago; try Veal Ingleside.
Mr. Parker – 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-321-4629;; French cuisine in upscale environment.
Norma’s – 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive (at Parker); 760-770-5000;; interior by Jonathan Adler.
Palms Bar & Restaurant – 83131 Amboy Road (Twentynine Palms); 760-361-2810;; scratched pool tables and country-western juke box.
Pappy & Harriet’s – 53688 Pioneertown Road (Pioneertown); 760-365-5956;; barbecue.
Purple Palm – 572 North Indian Canyon Drive (at Colony Palms Hotel); 760-969-1800;; poolside restaurant among Palm Springs’ best.
Spencer’s Restaurant – 701 West Baristo Road; 760-327-3446;; classic stand-by; 7 kinds eggs Benedict and/or crab cakes and filet mignon.
Torme’s – 360 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-1773;; owned by Mel Torme’s daughter; food and live music.
Trio – 707 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-864-8746;; popular with singles.
Le Vallauris – 385 West Tahquitz Canyon Way; 760-325-5059 or 888-525-5852;; French.

Cliffhanger Guides – 61707 Twentynine Palms Highway (Joshua Tree); 209-743-8363;; smallest rock climbing guide service in Joshua Tree National Park.
Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School – 63439 Doggie Trail (Joshua Tree); 760-366-4745;
Joshua Tree Uprising Adventures – 61695 Twentynine Palms Highway (Joshua Tree); 760-366-3600 or 888-254-6266;; rock climbing.
Modern Tour – Michael Stern; 706-904-0904;; private tour of some of Palm Springs’ most fabulous architectural treasures & homes, conducted by Michael Stern, author of works on Palm Springs modern style.
Palm Springs Modern Tours – Robert Imber; 760-318-6118;; book tour with design tour to see most iconic structures.
Palm Springs Yacht Club – 4200 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-770-5000;; spa with coed relaxation area, saline pool, 2 whirlpools, and candle-lit nap room.
Spa Resort Casino – 401 East Amado Road; 760-883-1000 or 888-999-1995;; mineral waters spa.
Vertical Adventures – Joshua Tree National Park; 949-854-6250 or 800-514-8785;; rock climbing.

Christopher Anthony, Ltd. – 800 North Palm Canyon Drive, Suite F; 760-322-0600;; new and old home furnishings.
Art Style Innovation – 668 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-322-3344;; home accessories and furniture; run by Hollywood event planners.
Boulevard – 800 North Palm Canyon Drive, Suite A; 760-832-9011;; co-owned by Oscar-nominated set decorator; new and vintage furniture.
Dazzles – 1035 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-1446; period, faux jewelry (Bakelite); also, furnishings.
Desert Art Gallery – Twentynine Palms; 760-361-2305;; muralist-painter Chuck Caplinger runs this gallery exhibiting semi-psychedelic desert ephemera and paintings; by appointment only.
Dwight Polen – 756 North Palm Canyon; 760-318-7227; Chinese antiques.
Elizabeth & Prince – 73470 El Paseo, Suite F3 (Palm Desert); 760-773-3500;; youthful resort wear (bathing suits and casual indie labels).
Estate Sale Company – 4185 East Palm Canyon Drive; 760-321-7628; vintage jewelry, especially.
House 849 – 849 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-325-7854;; contemporary and modern furnishings.
Insolito – 901 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-605-4814;; innovative furniture and home accessories.
Michael H. Lord Gallery – 1090 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-699-8957;
Modern Way – 745 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-320-5455;; uber modern, ‘60s furnishings.
Mr. Cox – 457 North Palm Canyon Drive, Suite 6 (at Galleria); 760-898-6443;; vintage boutique.
111 Antique Mall – 2500 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-864-9390;
J. Randolph Interiors – 1068 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-409-8962; tiny shop with antiques and home accessories.
Retrospect – 666 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-413-1766; old and new home furnishings.
Route 66 West – 465 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-322-6669;; vintage costume jewelry.
Savage Archdeacon – 644 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-673-7520;; gallery and studio.
Studio III – 2675 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-323-5104; high end, ‘60s furnishings.
Trina Turk Boutique – 891 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-416-2856;; not vintage; bright modern clothing.
Trina Turk Residential – 895 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-416-2856;; home accessories.
20 First Modern & Vintage – 1117 North Palm Canyon Drive; 760-327-5400; ’30-’60s California modern furnishings.

Gene Autry Statue – Gene Autry Plaza (Gene Autry Trail & Ramon Road);; 7' bronze sculpture; depicts Autry singing and strumming guitar circa-1940; called Gene Autry: America’s Favorite Singing Cowboy; created by Canadian sculptor De L’Esprie.
Back Street Art District – South Cherokee Way (across from Parker Hotel);; dozen artist-owned galleries and studios.
Eichler Home – 800 East Bogert Trail;; 1950-1974, Eichler Homes built over 11K homes in 9 Northern California & 3 Southern California communities; once gigantic budget items but, now, Desert Eichler Homes is trying to change that by building houses like this one.
Elrod House – 2175 Southridge Drive;; residence designed by American architect John Lautner & constructed in 1968; construction ordered by Arthur Elrod, interior designer; among most famous structures by Lautner; example of his so-called free architecture, where architecture & nature are combined; when house built, soil excavated rocks kept in place; these rocks are part of house interior & run straight through walls & windows; best-known feature is large circular concrete canopy above main living area with circular glass design; living room incorporates large rocks & opens onto to outdoor swimming pool & terrace with view over Palm Springs & San Jacinto Peak; Elrod House’s most notable appearance was as Willard Whyte’s mansion in Diamonds Are Forever.
Lucille Ball Statue – 100 North Palm Canyon Drive;; Bronze Lucy sits on bench, ready for photo op; does not look much like Lucy.
Bank of America Building – 588 South Palm Canyon Drive; 760-340-1867;; originally City National Bank; inspired by Le Corbusier’s chapel in Ronchamp, France; designed by Victor Gruen Associates and built in 1959.
Beauty Bubble Salon & Museum – Wonder Valley; 760-361-5617; in private home; by appointment; awe-inspiring hair museum.
Ecoshack – Joshua Tree; 323-646-5375;; architectural design lab where prototypes demonstrated by appointment.
HDTS Headquarters – 6470 Veterans Way (Joshua Tree, Headquarters); 310-276-5424;; annual art invitational where artists descend on Joshua Tree and install large artworks in desert; to get to actual installations, take Highway 62 (Twentynine Palms Highway) east towards Twentynine Palms; sites are located between Yucca Valley and Wonder Valley.
iT House – Pioneertown; 213-380-1060;; designed by Taalman Koch Architecture, firm behind Dia: Beacon (Dutchess County, NY); prefabricated glass house open for tours (Fall 2012).
Integratron – 2477 Belfield Boulevard (Landers); 760-364-3126;; George Van Tassel’s creation, based on Moses’ Tabernacle design, Nikola Tesla’s writings, and extraterrestrials’ telepathic directions; now used as rejuvenation and time machine; only all-wood, acoustically perfect sound chamber in US.
Joshua Tree National Park – 74485 National Park Drive (Twentynine Palms); 760-367-5525;; US National Monument since 1936; named for Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia) forests native to park; covers 1.25K square miles (area slightly larger than Rhode Island), large part is designated wilderness area; park includes 2 deserts, each ecosystem whose characteristics are determined primarily by elevation: higher Mojave Desert and lower Colorado Desert; Little San Bernardino Mountains run through park’s southwest edge; 7 miles from south entrance is Cottonwood Spring, pair of oases with tremendous bird life; great rock-climbing, easiest being Eye on Cyclops Rock.
Marilyn Monroe Statue – West Tahquitz Canyon Way (West Tahquitz Canyon Way & North Palm Canyon Drive (Highway 111) intersection); 26' statue straddles fake subway grate; Seward Johnson move-it-around-until-someone-buys-it creation, but good one.
Murtle Turtle – Twentynine Palms Highway (Joshua Tree, on Highway 62); iconic turtle statue.
Palevsky House – 1021 West Cielo Drive (Little Tuscany); starkly modern and worth special trip.
Palm Springs Art Museum – 101 North Museum Drive; 760-322-4800;; open since 1938; modern art and temporary exhibits.
Noah Purifoy Museum – Blair Lane (Joshua Tree); 213-382-7516;; outdoor art installations (made from junk) by Watts Towers’ artist; by appointment.
St. Theresa Catholic Church – 2800 East Ramon Road; 760-323-2669;; mid-20th Century architecture.
Sono Bono Statue – Mercado Plaza (149 South Palm Canyon Drive); bronze, grinning statue sits on fountain edge; depicts older, Palm-Springs-Mayor-Sonny, not younger, I-Got-You-Babe-Sonny.