BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Café-Sperl – 11 Gumpendorferstrasse (6th (“Mariahilf”) District); 011-43-01-586-4158; cafesperl.at; most iconic, legendary, turn-of-century coffeehouse; velvet banquettes; order small brauner (espresso).
●Demel – 14 Kohlmarkt (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-5351-7170; demel.at; pastry; try fachertorte, 4 layers enclosed in pastry crust, poppy seeds, grated apple compote, walnuts, rum dash & powidl (plum jam), and/or einspanner (double espresso with whipped cream).
●Meierei am Stadtpark – Am Stadtpark (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-713-3168; steirereck.at; more relaxed sibling of Steirereck, Vienna’s current grande dame; contemporary Austrian fare; also serves superb breakfast & afternoon tea.
●Julius Meinl am Graben – 19 Am Graben (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-532-3334-6100; meinlamgraben.at; 140 year-old gourmet company; coffee varieties (renowned house blend, Wiener Hausmischung) & teas; chocolate, bonbons, biscuits, marmalades & jams (Meinl’s chocolate wafers & Mozartkugeln made from chocolate with 100% cocoa content); various sheep-milk chocolate & delicious home-made biscuits go hand-in-hand with pink lady’s fingers from Champagne, Wachauer apricot jam in traditional Rex glass jars, Tasmanian honey & Spanish membrillo.
●Phil – 10-12 Gumpendorferstrasse (6th (“Mariahilf”) District); 011-43-01-581-0489; phil.info; coffeehouse that also is bar, bookstore & music shop; DJ’s & mismatched furniture.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Badeschiff Wien – Badeschiff Wien, Am Donaukanal (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District, near Schwedenplatz); 011-43-066-0312-4703; badeschiff.at; on canal between Schwedenplatz & Urania; boat with pool on top for night swimming.
●A Bar Shabu – 6 Glockengasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District, Ecke Rotensterngasse); 011-43-065-0544-5939; wein4tel.net; absinthe, beer & wine menu; also, small bites.
●Bristol Bar – 1 Kaerntner Ring (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District, at Hotel Bristol); 011-43-01-515-160; starwoodhotels.com.
●Brut – 20 Lothringerstrasse (7th (“Neubau”) District, at 5 Karlsplatz); 011-43-01-587-8774; brut-wien.at; center for experimental, innovative & international “performance art” (i.e., general mayhem); held in Weiner Konzerthaus’ cellar.
●Dachboden – 1-3 Lerchenfelder Strasse (7th (“Neubau”) District, at 25 Hours Hotel); 011-43-01-521-510; 25hours-hotels.com/wien; rooftop bar has great views.
●DO & CO Hotel – 12 Stephanplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-24188; doco.com/hotel.
●Fluc – 5 Praterstern (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District); fluc.at; club built in former pedestrian passageway at Prater metro stop; live music & beer.
●Loos American Bar – 10 Karntner Strasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-512-3283; loosbar.at; designed in 1908 by Adolf Loos; among most beautiful bars in world.
●Meinl – 19 Am Graben (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District, downstairs at Julius Meinl am Graben); 011-43-01-532-3334 or 011-43-01-532-6100; meinlamgraben.at; part of 140 year-old business; wine bar.
●Motto am Fluss – 2 Schwedenplatz (5th (“Margareten”) District); 011-43-01-252-5511; motto.at/mottoamfluss; calm, new bar on Danube River canal.
●Palmenhaus – 1 Burggarten (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-533-1033; palmenhaus.at; bar in imperial greenhouse.
●Phil – 10-12 Gumpendorferstrasse (6th (“Mariahilf”) District); 011-43-01-581-0489; phil.info; bar that also is bookstore, coffeehouse & music shop; DJ’s & mismatched furniture.
●Die Rote Bar – 1 Neustiftgasse (7th (“Neubau”) District, at Volkstheater); 011-43-069-91501-5014; rotebar.at; opened in 1889; Belle Epoque architecture marvel; Saturday is “club night,” which means everything from DJs to burlesque.
●Skopik & Lohn – 17 Leopoldsgasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District); 011-43-01-219-8977; skopikundlohn.at; in artsy little neighborhood around Karmelitermarkt, just across Donaukanal; few footsteps from square; classic wood paneling of old Gasthaus combined with Franz Kline-inspired ceiling (considered among Vienna’s most modern & striking rooms).
●DO & CO Hotel – 12 Stephanplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-24188; doco.com/hotel; spectacular views; 43 rooms; teak floors & suede wall tires, with retro-designed furniture; especially atmospheric at night; top-floor restaurant attracts see-&-be-seen crowd; May-September best time to go; rooms closest to elevator have best views of St. Stephen’s Cathedral.
●Fleming’s Hotel – 10-12 Josefstadter Strasse (8th (“Josefstadt”) District, behind Rathaus); 011-43-01-205-990; flemings-hotels.com; luxurious with gorgeous, wood-paneled rooms; ask for “city view.”
●Hotel Bristol – 1 Kaerntner Ring (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-515-160; starwoodhotels.com; palatial setting & antiques.
●Hotel Daniel Vienna – 5 Landstrasser Gurtel (3rd ("Landstrasse") District); 011-43-01-901-310; hoteldaniel.com; ask for Belvedere Room (Belvedere buildings view), floor-to-ceiling window & bathtub in room middle allowing you to bathe & enjoy view.
●Hotel Hollmann-Beletage – 6 Kollnerhofgasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-961-1960; hollmann-beletage.at; affordable; neo-Gothic, 19th Century façade with contemporary interior; just steps from St. Stephen’s Cathedral; 8-seat cinema shows Austrian films nightly.
●Hotel Imperial – 16 Kaerntner Ring (7th (“Neubau”) District); 011-43-01-501-100; starwoodhotels.com; 19th Century, opulent property; former Russian prince’s property.
●Konig von Ungarn – 10 Schulerstrasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-51584; kvu.at; 1746 hotel near St. Stephen’s cathedral; Mozart’s home part of property.
●Le Meridien – 13 Opernring (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-588-900; starwoodhotels.com; former apartment building on Ringstrasse; modern accommodation.
●Ring – 8 Karntner Ring (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-515-800; theringhotel.com.
●Hotel Sacher Wien – 4 Philharmonikerstrasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-514-560; sacher.com; higher floors have private terraces; sidewalk café in summer.
●Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom – 1 Praterstrasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District); 011-43-01-906-160; sofitel.com; must see Restaurant Loft’s ceiling; ask for 1 of 3 “all black” rooms.
●25 Hours – 1-3 Lerchenfelder Strasse (7th (“Neubau”) District); 011-43-01-521-510; 25hours-hotels.com/wien; small German design chain’s 1st outpost; rooftop bar has great views.
●Bitzinger’s Wurstelstand – 1 Albertinaplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-533-1026; bitzinger.at; sausage stand offers contrasting spectacle of Viennese dressed to 9s, sipping wine while enjoying sausage at outdoor tables after performances.
●Cafe Braunerhof – 2 Stallburggasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-512-3893; braeunerhof.at; late novelist Thomas Bernard’s favorite cafe in which to while away afternoons; on Saturday afternoons, classical musicians play.
●Cafe Drechsler – 1 Girardigasse (6th (“Mariahilf”) District); 011-43-01-581-2044; cafedrechsler.at; overlooking Naschmarkt, Vienna’s main food market, popular 1919 cafe, remodeled in 2007 by Sir Terence Conran; open 23 hours most days; attracts chic crowd.
●Café Halle – 1 Museumsplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District, at MuseumsQuartier); 011-43-01-523-7001; diehalle.at; romantic, yet modern restaurant.
●Cafe Landtmann – 4 Doktor Karl Lueger Ring (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-2410-0100; landtmann.at; best breakfast spot; near Austrian parliament.
●Cafe Pruckel – 24 Stubenring (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District’s edge); 011-43-01-512-6115; prueckel.at; funky 50s decor.
●Decor – 1a Obere Augartenstrasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District, in Augarten Palace); 011-43-01-212-3838; decor-augarten.at.
●Gasthaus Zu Den 3 Hacken – 28 Singerstrasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-051-25895; vinum-wien.at; some of city’s finest Wiener kuche (Viennese home-cooking); try as starter frittatensuppe (beef bouillon garnished with egg crepe ribbons); as entrée, faschierte laibchen (pan-fried beef & pork meatballs on mashed potatoes with fried onions); good apple strudel.
●Heuriger Christ – 12 Amtsstrasse (21st (“Floridsdorf”) District); 011-43-01-292-5152; weingutchrist.at; hippest heuriger (“wine tavern”) in town; 1st-rate food & wine.
●Heuriger Wieninger – 78 Stammersdorfer Strasse (21st (“Floridsdorf”) District); 011-43-01-292-4106; heuriger-wieninger.at; century-old vineyard on city’s edge; make sure to try grammelknodel (pork-crackling dumplings).
●Holy Moly – Galerie Lage wir Ankern an der Donaukanallande (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District, Zwischen Schwedenplatz und Urania); 011-43-066-0312-4703; badeschiff.at; on barge in Donaukanal; modern, not traditional, Viennese.
●Kleines Cafe – 3 Franziskanerplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); designed by architect Hermann Czech in 1970s & owned by actor Hanno Poschl; exudes bohemian atmosphere reminiscent of Vienna’s heady Jugendstil days; tiny inside, but wonderful summer outdoor seating.
●Kutschker 44 – 44 Kutschkergasse (18th (“Wahring”) District); 011-43-01-470-2047; kutschker44.at; casual; veers between Viennese comfort & nervier modern dishes, including lots of fish, with some Turkish influence.
●Loft – 1 Praterstrasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District, at Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom); 011-43-01-906-160; sofitel.com; top-floor restaurant with 15' windows & 360° view; ceiling is amber, blue & gold depiction of fall foliage & sky.
●Loos American Bar – 10 Karntner Strasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-512-3283; loosbar.at; designed in 1908 by Adolf Loos; among most beautiful bars in world.
●Manameierei – 32 Exelbergstrasse (17th (“Hernals”) District); 011-43-01-480-5172; manameierei.com; cozy bistro on edge of Schwarzenberg Park visit.
●Meierei am Stadtpark – Am Stadtpark (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-713-3168; steirereck.at; more relaxed sibling of Steirereck, Vienna’s current grande dame; contemporary Austrian fare; also serves superb breakfast & afternoon tea.
●Orlando di Castello – 1 Freyung (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-533-7629; orlandodicastello.at; French-Italian food; stylish modern décor with great food, especially desserts.
●Phil – 10-12 Gumpendorferstrasse (6th (“Mariahilf”) District); 011-43-01-581-0489; phil.info; coffeehouse that also is bar, bookstore & music shop; DJ’s & mismatched furniture.
●Plachutta – 38 Wollzeile (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-512-1577; plachutta.at; specializes in tafelspitz, beef slowly boiled with marrow bones & vegetables that comes to table with hash brown-like potatoes, nutmeg-spiked creamed spinach & applesauce spiced with horseradish.
●Rote Bar – 4 Philharmonikerstrasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District, at Hotel Sacher Wien); 011-43-01-514-560; sacher.com; traditional food is good & recreates life at Hapsburgs’ power’s height.
●Rudi’s Beisl – 88 Wiedner Hauptstrasse (5th (“Margareten”) District); 011-43-01-544-5102; rudisbeisl.at; some say city’s best Weiner schnitzel; also good is pikante linsensuppe (paprika-spiked carrot & potato soup with black lentil garnish).
●Sacher Hotel Restaurant – 4 Philharmonikerstrasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District, at Hotel Sacher Wien); 011-43-01-514-560; sacher.com/en-restaurants-vienna.htm; elegant dining room; restaurant’s most famous dish, tafelspitz (boiled beef ensemble with savory, herb-flavored sauce); also try fish terrine and/or veal steak with morels; for dessert, Sachertorte enjoys world renown; come dressed to 9s; show up before 11 pm, even though restaurant officially closes at 1 am; adjoining & less formal Red Bar has menu available every day from noon to 11:30 pm (last order).
●Schilling – 103 Burggasse (21st (“Floridsdorf”) District); 011-43-01-524-1775; schilling-wart.at; distinctive for 1950s fixtures & traditional dishes such as Kalbbutterschnitzel (veal butter schnitzel) & bohmische palatschinken (dessert pancake with plum sauce).
●Schweizerhaus – 116 Prater (14th (“Penzing”) District); 011-43-01-7280-1520; schweizerhaus.at; perfectly meets beer-garden ideal; excellent food for type; try schweinsstelze & fried potato pancakes.
●Skopik & Lohn – 17 Leopoldsgasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District); 011-43-01-219-8977; skopikundlohn.at; in artsy little neighborhood around Karmelitermarkt, just across Donaukanal; few footsteps from square; classic wood paneling of old Gasthaus combined with Franz Kline-inspired ceiling (considered among Vienna’s most modern & striking rooms); Austrian cuisine’s supposed “future”; try Arctic char on creamed yellow beets, roast chicken with figs & chestnuts, and/or house-made gnocchi with turnips & pears.
●Steirereck – 2a Am Heumarkt (3rd (“Landstrasse”) District, in Stadt-park on Ringstrasse); 011-43-01-713-3168; steirereck.at; 2 Michelin stars; oasis in 1 of city’s most beautiful parts; close to Johann Strauss statue; draws on produce from local farmers around Vienna & products from owner’s farm; contemporary Austrian cuisine in unique setting; dishes & their origins explained in detail on small cards; programme completed by Meierei milk bar in basement where, in addition to 120 cheese varieties from 13 different countries & typical Austrian pastries, guests can enjoy culinary delights from breakfast to dinner.
●Süd Länder – 7 Rilkeplatz (2nd (“Weiden”) District); 011-43-01-966-7823; suedlaender.com; tapas bar popular with locals; shows televised soccer matches.
●Vestibul – 2 Doktor Karl Lueger Ring (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-532-4999; vestibuel.at; attend performances at Burgtheater & enjoy good food & drink, as well; restaurant entrance originally exists for emperor’s coach; tables open onto City Hall & Ringstrasse views; beginning on spring’s 1st warm day & lasting until autumn’s mild afternoons, tables are also outside in garden; classic cuisine with market-fresh ingredients; try traditional paprika chicken or Styrian beef.
●Waldviertler Hof – 20 Schönbrunnerstrasse (5th (“Margareten”) District);
011-43-01-586-3512; waldviertlerhof.at; surrounded by fancy neighborhood, restaurant is institution where one gets authentic, delicious Austrian food in traditional environment; try Waldviertler Gröstl (with bacon, scrambled eggs, potatoes & green salad) or Kalbsrahmbeuschel (creamed & chopped calves’ liver with bread dumplings); staff is friendly, prices are in midrange segment; good quality for money in traditional Austrian ambience.
●Zum Alten Fassl – 37 Ziegelofengasse (5th (“Margareten”) District); 011-43-01-544-4298; zum-alten-fassl.at; with private garden amid residential houses & polished wooden interior (typical of well-kept Beisl), worth trip south of centre if just for drink; but, while here, sample Viennese favourites & regional specialities, like Eierschwammerl (chanterelles) & Blunzengröstl (bacon, onion, potato & blood sausage fry-up); when in season, try Zanderfilet is chef’s favorite; between 1974-82, singer Falco lived upstairs in this building – plaque marks spot.
●Zum Finsteren Stern – 2 Sterngasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-535-8152; tucked behind Am Hof Church on 17th Century building’s ground floor; name translates to “To Dark Star”; well-executed epicurean drama with vaulted ceilings & arched wall of wood carved with tiny stars; menu changes nightly.
●Zum Schwarzen Kameel – 5 Bognergasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-533-8125; kameel.at; beloved institution; savor Jugendstil decor; apricot sampler alone worth visit.
●National Park Boat – Salztorbrücke, take-off from Franz-Josefs-Kai (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-4000-49495; donauauen.at; plies from Old City along Viennese Danube canal into Lobau jungle.
●So SPA – 1 Praterstrasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District, at Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom); 011-43-01-906-160; sofitel.com.
●Vienna Carriage Rides – 234 Simmeringer Hauptstrasse (11th (“Simmering”) District, at Vienna Central Cemetery); 011-43-06-99-1815-4022; vienna-carriage.com; since spring 2012, carriage rides around Vienna Central Cemetery; carriages rank daily from 10am to 7 pm; tour includes numerous memorial graves of prominent Viennese personalities (Mozart, Schubert, Beethoven, Hans Moser, Falco, Adolf Loos & others).
●Augarten Wien – Schloss Augarten, 1A Obere Augartenstrasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District); 011-43-01-2112-4200; augarten.at; ceramics.
●Carl Auböck – 23 Bernardgasse (7th (“Neubau”) District); 011-43-01-523-6631; werkstaette-carlauboeck.at; brassware.
●Camille Boyer – 25/2 Lindengasse (7th (“Neubau”) District); 011-43-01-650-441-9085; women’s accessories, such as hobo bags from Lumi.
●Buntwaesche – 31-33 Lindengasse (7th (“Neubau”) District); 011-43-066-4780-4461; buntwaesche.at; children’s clothing.
●Glanz & Gloria – 77 Schottenfeldgasse (7th (“Neubau”) District); 011-43-065-0400-6091; glanzundlgoria.at; Eastern European fashion designers & hair salon.
●Knize – 1 Argentinierstrasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-512-2119; knize.at; handmade suits since 1858.
●Lobmeyr – 26 Karntner Strasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-512-0508; lobmeyr.at; founded in 1823; produces spectacular crystal & glass.
●Julius Meinl am Graben – 19 Am Graben (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-053-23334-6100; meinlamgraben.at; 140 year-old gourmet company; coffee varieties (renowned house blend, Wiener Hausmischung) & teas; sweets like chocolate, bonbons, biscuits, marmalades & jams (Meinl’s chocolate wafers & Mozartkugeln made from chocolate with 100% cocoa content); various sheep-milk chocolate & delicious home-made biscuits go hand-in-hand with pink lady’s fingers from Champagne, Wachauer apricot jam in traditional Rex glass jars, Tasmanian honey & Spanish membrillo.
●Manameierei – 32 Exelbergstrasse (17th (“Hernals”) District); 011-43-01-480-5172; manameierei.com; will pack picnic basket for Schwarzenberg Park visit.
●Muehlbauer – 15 Franz-Josefs-Kai (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-533-5269; muehlbauer.at; milliner since 1903.
●Palais Dorotheum – 17 Dorotheergasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-515-60570; dorotheum.com; estate & fine art auctions since 1707.
●Phil – 10-12 Gumpendorferstrasse (6th (“Mariahilf”) District); 011-43-01-581-0489; phil.info; bookstore & music shop that is also bar & coffeehouse; DJ’s & mismatched furniture.
●Rudolf Scheer & Sohne – 4 Braunerstrasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-533-8084; scheer.at; handmade shoes since 1816.
●Salon fur Kunstbuch – 11 Mondscheingasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District, Ecke Rotensterngasse); 011-43-066-0445-7116; salon-fuer-kunstbuch.at; 2 year-old, steel-toned, art gallery & bookstore.
●Wabisabi – 20 Lindengase (7th (“Neubau”) District; 011-43-066-4545-1280; alle-tragen-wabi-sabi.at; Japanese-style, geometric-cut women’s clothing, entirely in black & white.
●Weisse Haus – 11-13/1/3 Westbahnstrasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-066-4840-4912; dasweissehaus.at; converted white carriage house, now high concept art gallery; large windows & courtyard.
●Werkprunk – 7/11 Kirchengasse (7th (“Neubau”) District; 011-43-01-990-6432; werkprunk.com; semi-precious stone & silver jewelry made by sisters Jasmin & Sylvia Konig.
●Wiener Silber Manufactur – 14 Spiegelgasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-513-0500; wienersilbermanufactur.com; metalware (cutlery, gifts, etc.).
●Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe – 3 Albertinaplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District, next to Hotel Sacher); 011-43-01-512-1875; feinestoffe.at; selling fabrics since 1881.
SIGHTS & SITES
●Akademie der Bildenden Kunste – 3 Schillerplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-588-160; akademiegalerie.at; often underrated art space; concentrates on classic Flemish, Dutch & German painters (e.g., Hieronymus Bosch, Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Rubens, Titian, Francesco Guardi, & Cranach “Elder”); highlight is Bosch’s impressive & gruesome Triptych of Last Judgment altarpiece (1504-1508); former school famous for turning down Adolf Hitler twice & accepting Egon Schiele.
●Albertina – 1 Helmut-Zilk-Platz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District, on Albertinaplatz); 011-43-01-534-830; albertina.at; houses world’s greatest collection graphic art; founded in 1768 by Maria Theresia’s son-in-law Duke Albert von Sachsen-Teschen; consists of 1.5M prints & 50K drawings, including 145 Dürer drawings (world’s largest collection), 43 by Raphael, 70 by Rembrandt & 150 by Schiele; outside, attractive square is site of troubling work Monument Against War & Fascism (by Alfred Hrdlicka, created in 1988), which is blocklike, pale sculpture series commemorating Jews & other fascism-war victims; this dark, squat shape wrapped in barbed wire represents Jew scrubbing floor (greyish block originally from Mauthausen concentration camp).
●Arenbergpark – 9 Dannebergplatz (3rd (“Landstrasse”) District); with huge trees spread across lawn, abundant colorful flowers, classic park benches & kindergarten buzzing with children’s laughter & screams, looks like most parks in Vienna; small difference: 2 gigantic flak towers, rising over trees, dominate scenery; L-Tower (Leitturm or “Lead Tower”) remains empty; but G-Tower (Gefechtsturm or “Combat Tower”), home to MAK Collection of Contemporary Art.
●Augarten Park – 1a Obere Augartenstrasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District); 011-43-01-33-226; 94www.kultur.park.augarten.org; city’s oldest baroque gardens; elaborate flower garden landscape & vast, shady avenues of ash, chestnut, lime & maple trees; access limited to daytime activities as its 5 gates close at sundown (signaled by siren); facilities include Wiener Sängerknaben (Vienna Boys’ Choir) in Palais Augarten, Augarten Porzellanmanufaktur (“Augarten Porcelain Factory”), Augarten Contemporary (Österreichische Gallerie Belvedere), Austrian Gallery (housed in Belvedere), Filmarchiv Austria, retirement home, Jewish campus, children’s pool & sports fields; 2 places to eat (Bunkerei, partially housed in old bunker & place in Filmarchiv), as well as 2 catered establishments, 1 in Atelier Augarten.
●Austrian National Library State Hall – 1 Josefsplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-5341-0252; onb.ac.at; tucked inside Hapsburg Palace complex; soaring frescoed 17th Century ceiling.
●Belvedere Gardens & Palace – 27 Prinz-Eugen-Strasse (3rd (“Landstrasse”) District); 011-43-01-7955-7134; belvedere.at.
●Cannonball – at corner of Praterstrasse & Zirkusgasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); cannonball embedded in orange building’s front wall; “1809” inscribed underneath it; Napoleonic war relic.
●Church of St. Leopold am Steinhof (Steinhof Psychiatric Hospital & Oratory) – 1 Baumgartner Höhe (14th (“Penzing”) District); 011-43-019-10601-1204; stadt-wien.at/wien/kirchen/otto-wagner-kirche.html; Roman Catholic oratory of what was once Steinhof Psychiatric Hospital; considered among most important Art Nouveau churches in world; built between 1903-07 by 63-year-old architect Otto Wagner, with mosaics & stained glass by Koloman Moser & sculptural angels by Othmar Schimkowitz; 2 statues on external towers represent Sts. Leopold & Severin (patron saints of Lower Austria) & are work of Viennese sculptor Richard Luksch; Wagner incorporated numerous features specifically related to its function within asylum: e.g., very few sharp edges & most corners rounded, almost no crosses visible, priest’s area potentially entirely separate from patients’, access to pulpit only from vestry, emergency exits built into side walls in case patient needed speedy removal, continuously flowing water replaced holy water stoups at entrance, separate entrances for male & female patients, confessionals more open than customary & toilet facilities easily accessible within church in case of patient need; originally pews of different widths to accommodate different categories of patient; most recent & most extensive, restoration project began in June 2000; completely re-gilded exterior dome using gold leaf.
●Döbling Cemetery – Währing (19th (“Döbling”) District); 011-43-01-479-5194; friedhoefewien.at; where Theodor Herzl originally buried.
●Esperanto Museum – 9 Herrengasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-5341-0730; onb.ac.at.
●Flak Towers – (1) MAK Collection of Contemporary art [5 Stubenring (1st (“Alsttadt”) District)]; (2) Austrian Army Military Base [Stiftgasse (7th (“Neubau”) District)]; & (3) Haus des Meeres [1 Fritz-Grünbaum-Platz (6th (“Mariahilf”) District)]; tourmycountry.com/austria/flak-towers-vienna.htm; monumental concrete fortresses meant to serve as platforms for anti-aircraft guns batteries; 6 (in pairs) built in Vienna; not to be taken lightly, able to fire 8K rounds per minute with range of up to 14 km over 360°; towers served as air raid shelters for up to 10K people; tower walls are 3.5m of reinforced concrete, enough to survive attack by conventional bombs carried by allied bombers; Flakturm VII in Augarten, Vienna is Generation 3 flak tower & dangerous enough to be avoided by allied air-force during war; both G & L towers of Flakturm survived war with little damage; after war, because of sturdy construction, destruction deemed unfeasible; towers remain disused to this day & serve as home to several Ks pigeons.
●Fools’ Tower (Narrenturm) – 2 Spitalgasse (9th (“Alsergrund”) District, on Uni Campus); 011-43-01-5217-7606; viennadirect.com/sights/hospital.php; dinosaur displays, meteorites & animal specimens in palatial 19th Century natural history museum.
●Freud Museum – 19 Berggasse (9th (“Alsergrund”) District); 011-43-013-191-596; freud-museum.at/en; in 1891, Freud 1st established his medical practice here, conducting his analyses on 2nd floor; visited by Ks tourists every year; Bellevue-Höhe nearby for further strolling.
●Friedhof Der Namenlosen (Cemetery of Nameless) – Albener Hafen (11th (“Simmering”) District); 011-43-066-0600-3023; friedhof-der-namenlosen.at; quite far from city center (trip feels like pilgrimage); located nearby junction of Danube Canal & Danube itself; hidden behind gigantic grain warehouses & equally enormous silos; for Danube River victims; cemetery used to be little visited, especially since all of 104 bodies were buried there before 1940; after 1940 river victims buried in Vienna Central Cemetery; most corpses were unidentified drowning victims that River’s current brought ashore; inclusion of romantic & sad setting in popular film Before Sunrise raised its popularity; dead were buried in wooden coffins, donated by carpenter’s workshop; 42 eventually identified by family members but final resting places of most consist only of mournful flowers & simple black steel cross, adorned with inscription namenlos (“unknown” or “nameless”); River improvements meant no more eddies to bring dead bodies ashore near cemetery, but still every year on All Saint’s Day (November 1) nameless remembered; fishermen from Albern area keep old tradition alive by building raft decorated with flowers & bearing commemorative inscription for Danube River victims; raft is then floated while band plays; then left to follow slow currents downstream.
●Gasometer City – 6 Guglgasse (11th (“Simmering”) District); 011-43-01-743-6430; wiener-gasometer.at/en; 1st municipal gas storage tanks, with 55 meter-high brick walls; inside walls of these 4 huge containers were made of iron to store inflammable gas produced from hard coal; tanks still used for gas storage until 1984; in 2001, 4 internationally renowned architects each given tank (Gasometer A, B, C, D) with task of reinventing them; Jean Nouvel made indoor plaza with Gasometer A, with huge windows to catch light coming in from transparent dome; Coop Himmelblau produced 22-story building with bending-shape attached to Gasometer B, creating remarkable contrast with circular container shape; Manfred Wehdorn made eco-friendly apartment building with indoor gardens in Gasometer C; & Whilelm Holzbauer ended up constructing apartment building as well in Gasometer D, after he saw his project for hotel rejected by city; Gasometer City has its own U-Bahn station, outside which there is huge gas valve; also contains large shopping mall, 615 apartments with 1.5K residents, offices, media center, as well as Wiener Stadt und Landesarchiv, Vienna City & County Archives; Gasometer City served as set for James Bond movie, Living Daylights.
●Globenmuseum – 9 Herrengasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-011-5341-0710; onb.ac.at; cartography museum in former palace.
●Haus des Meeres – 1 Fritz-Grünbaum-Platz (6th (“Mariahilf”) District); 011-43-01-587-1417; haus-des-meeres.at; public aquarium in Esterhazy Park.
●Hofburg Palace – Hofburg-Michaelerkuppel (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-533-7570; hofburg-wien.at; see Imperial Silver Collection (magnificent dining services, centerpieces measuring up to 30 ms long & exquisite napery); Sisi Museum conveys complex picture of Empress Elisabeth with numerous, some personal, objects; Imperial Apartments give insight into Austria’s most illustrious imperial couple; 19 rooms in Emperor Franz Joseph’s & his wife Elisabeth’s apartments; fascinating contrast to imperial summer residence at Schönbrunn.
●Hoher Markt – 10-11 Hoher Markt (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); city-walks.info/Vienna/Ankeruhr.html; Vienna’s oldest market square; known for baroque fountain & Ankeruhr clock (Judenstil); at noon, clock figures parade with musical accompaniment.
●Imperial Court Furniture Depot – 7 Andreasgasse (7th (“Neubau”) District); 011-43-01-524-3357; hofmobiliendepot.at; depot where Habsburgs stored furniture, kept in good repair & distributed to imperial households when required; among many Ks exhibits amassed over 5 centuries, with special emphasis on Biedermeier & Historicism, also may find Baroque easy-chair on wheels, imperial travel throne & praying-stools with velvet pillow-covers; here, can admire furniture of Empress Elisabeth’s rustic rooms (in Schönbrunn Meierei), as well as room of young girl from Biedermeier era, not to mention such curios as rococo spittoons, room toilets disguised as “sitting furniture,” & specially designed ladies’ chamber-pots; also on display are permanent exhibition Sissi in Movies, which takes look behind scenes of world-famous 1950s trilogy with Romy Schneider.
●Jewish Museum – 11 Dorotheergasse (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District); 011-43-01-535-0431; jmw.at.
●Judenplatz – near Am Hof square, Schulhof & Wipplingerstrasse (1st ("Innere Stadt") District); center of Jewish life & Viennese Jewish Community in Middle Ages; archaeological excavations of medieval synagogue are viewable underground by way of museum on square, Misrachi-Haus; 2 sculptural works (carved relief & several inscribed texts located around square) have subject matter relating to Jewish history; 1 sculpture is statue of Gotthold Ephraim Lessing; other is Austrian Holocaust Victim memorial, project based on an idea of Simon Wiesenthal & unveiled in 2000; also on square are Bohemian Court Chancellery & Austrian Constitutional Court.
●Kaiserbruendl Lage – Weihburggasse (1st ("Stephansplatz") District); 011-43-01-513-3293; kaiserbruendl.at/1/eng; pretty much gay men only; impressive history covering several centuries; generally regarded as most distinguished & oldest bathing-establishment in Vienna; building’s unusually deep well in use in Roman times for bridge’s small fortification (proven through coins dating back to Emperors Heliogabalus & Alexander Severus; structure, later known as Weihenpurgkh, formed fortified, separate small suburb part outside Vienna until 1156; in middle ages, area was textile center (der alte Ramhof); document mentioning padstubn (“bathing room”) in this house dates back to 1368; during 19th Century, Centralbad (then city center’s only bath) gained its greatest social reputation; regular guests included Archduke Ludwig Victor (Emperor Franz Joseph I’s brother), famous for his love for beauty; in remembrance of imperial majesties’ visits (i.e.: Franz Joseph (1873), Don Pedro II (1877) & Nasir-ad-Din (1878), Centralbad renamed Kaiserbründl; between 1887-1891, rebuilt by famous Viennese architect & city master builder Anton Honus & gained its present look; after post-WWII stagnation period, Kaiserbründl experienced new revival, which can be witnessed through its elaborate renovations & extensions; Societas Conspiranti Heliogabali contributed significantly to changes, transforming it into underground sun temple.
●Karl Marx-Hof – 82 Heiligenstädter Strasse (19th (“Döbling”) District); 011-43-01-24555; viennadirect.com/sights/marx.php; no building embodies socialist ideology more than architectural flagship that is Karl Marx-Hof; built between 1927-30 by city planner Karl Ehn, architect Otto Wagner’s pupil; colossal building with 1,382 apartments, designed to welcome Ks of Viennese in 19th district, on aptly nicknamed Ringstrasse des Proletariats (“Ringroad of Proletariat”); imposing building is over 1 km long & contains laundries, kindergartens, pools, stores, clinic, pharmacy & post office; huge courtyard behind tenement & view from park is even more impressive, especially at day’s end, when setting sun hits building; has rich history; in early 30s, Socialist movement becoming weaker due to Great Depression & rise of national fascism that ultimately led to 3-day civil war, Österreichischer Bürgerkrieg; complaints made that Karl-Marx-Hof had been deliberately constructed in previously “wealthy” (& conservative) area; rumors spread that there were arms depots within building; during Februaraufstand (“February Uprising”) some of people engaged in revolt barricaded themselves inside Karl Marx-Hof but forced to surrender after Austrian army & paramilitary forces shelled building that was still inhabited by children & women; heavy artillery damage to building repaired in 1950s & then restored again between 1989-92; right across street from Karl Marx-Hof is Februar-Platz, reminder of these troubled times; museum in laundry room worth exploring; 300 square meter exhibit takes in history, manifesto & key figures of “Red Vienna.”
●Kornhäuselturm – 1 Fleischmarkt (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); structurae.net/structures/kornhauselturm; built in 1825-27 by Joseph Kornhaeusel, among most famous architects of 19th Century Vienna; now houses restaurant; as it originally was surrounded by other rental houses, you had to enter it from house next to i; beside it are Austrian historical steps from that period with benches to sit down & enjoy shady old trees around.
●Krieau Harness Racing Club – Prater Fairgrounds, North Gate (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District); 011-43-01-728-0046; krieau.at; operates trotting races every week except in July & August, when venue closed & race fans head to racetrack in Baden.
●Kuffner Observatory (Kuffner-Sternwarte) – 10 Johann-Staud-Strasse (16th (“Ottakring”) District); 011-43-01-914-8130; kuffner-sternwarte.at/index.php; 1 of 2 telescope-equipped public astronomical observatories situated in Vienna; on Gallitzinberg slope at 302 m; built at 19th Century’s end; financed by wealthy benefactor & enthusiastic amateur astronomer, Moriz von Kuffner, Ottakringer brewer; he had been approached by astronomer Norbert Herz who, when building finished in 1886, became its director & quickly established as respected location for astronomical research & knowledge; after WWI, fell on very hard times; closed 1917-28, handed over to Academy of Sciences & then returned & subsequently taken over by National Socialists when Kuffner, Austrian Jew, forced to emigrate to Switzerland in 1938 where died shortly thereafter; Kuffner Observatory reopened during post-war occupation & restored to Kuffner family ownership in 1950; family then sold observatory & it was used as educational center; Vienna authorities took over & now run it as separate business - Astronomie Wien - as part of further education process; Astronomie Wien also manages Urania Observatory & Planetarium at Volksprater; consists of 2 domes; main building’s dome holds original Great Refractor, which still delivers images; in other dome there is heliometer, among biggest in world, installed in 1896 to measure distances from earth to stars.
●Kunsthalle Wien – 1 Museumsplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-521-8933; kunsthallewien.at; photography.
●Kunsthistorisches Museum – 1 Maria-Theresien-Platz (7th (“Neubau”) District); 011-43-01-525-240; khm.at; major art collection; note, see Caravaggio’s David with Head of Goliath (1607), Madonna of Rosary (1607) & Crowning with Thorns (1607).
●Leopold Museum – 1 Museumplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-525-700; leopoldmuseum.org; massive late 19th-early 20th Century Austrian art collection.
●MAK Collection of Contemporary Art – 5 Stubenring (1st (“Alsttadt”) District); 011-43-017-11360; mak.at/en; design is among main features; china, furniture, glass, silver & textiles from Middle Ages to present; precious crafts from Wiener Werkstätte, bentwood furniture by Thonet & art nouveau highlights such as gilded Gustav Klimt design for Stoclet Palais frieze in Brussels (bentwood chairs by Thonet still used in Viennese coffeehouses) & armchairs from Middle Ages to present day look absolutely inviting); Biedermeier sofas surprise with green, pink, red & yellow colors, because Biedermeier style, with its clear & simple shapes, is considered design’s cradle); china, glass, silver & textiles of highest quality & in unusual designs produced at Wiener Werkstätte, founded in 1903 by Josef Hoffmann & Koloman Moser; hammered silver service by Hoffmann or black & white vase will thrill not only art nouveau lovers; permanent Asia collection presents Chinese porcelain, Japanese lacquer work, Japanese wood cuts & Japanese coloring stencil plates; contemporary art by Donald Judd, James Turrell & others & 12 sofas by Franz West span artistic range to present day; sophisticated & young design for sale in MAK Design Shop; after visiting MAK, guests are welcome at its restaurant Salonplafond.
●Minoritenkirche – 2A Minoritenplatz (1st (“Alsttadt”) District); 011-43-676-626-4113; minoritenkirche-wien.info; related to monastic order of Minor (Franciscan) monks); built in French Gothic style; site on which built given to followers of Francis of Assisi in 1224; foundation stone laid by King Ottokar II of Bohemia in 1276; when Joseph II gave church to Italians as present, they transferred name Maria Schnee (“Mary of Snows”) from nearby chapel that then was destroyed; subject of Adolf Hitler’s most renowned work of art, watercolor painted in 1910; make sure to see powerful Tyrol Countess Margarete Maultasch’s tomb (she delivered Tyrol to Rudolf IV der Stifter in 14th Century); supposedly very ugly & many portraits of Margarete depict her in unflattering manner.
●Mozarthaus – 5 Domgasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-512-1791; mozarthausvienna.at/en; Mozart lived her for couple years; now, comprehensive museum of his world.
●Museum Aspern-Essling – 9 Asperner Heldenplatz (22nd (“Donaustadt”) District); 011-43-664-978-7162; wien.info/en/locations/museum-aspern-essling-1809; focus is on military conflict between Austrian & French troops in May 1809; bullets, pictures, uniforms & weapons; in 1858, Archduke Albrecht, Archduke Karl’s son, erected monument to victims of that war, Lion of Aspern (by artist Anton Fernkorn); nearby are Franzosenfriedhof (French Cemetery) & Napoleon’s Pulvermagazin (powder magazine).
●Museum of Applied Arts – 5 Stubenring Vienna (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-711-360; mak.at.
●Museum of Military History (Arsenal) – 1 Arsenal Objekt (3rd (“Landstrasse”) District, on Gürtel’s south side, next to Schweizergarten); 011-43-01-795-610; hgm.at; Austrian Armed Forces museum; known in German as Heeresgeschichtliches Museum; 1 among 4 barracks built around Vienna following unrest sweeping Europe in mid-1880s (predecessor destroyed in 1848 rebellion); was not constructed for strictly military purposes, barracks & weapons storage; Emperor Franz Joseph I ordered that 1 building should be used as Vienna’s 1st purpose-built museum, designed to portray Imperial Army’s history & triumphs; displays Habsburg Empire history from 16th Century to 1918 & also Austria’s military history from Monarchy’s demise to 2nd Republic (1955); museum building is situated in Arsenal complex center; entrance hall is deliberately designed to be imposing, with life-size arms commander statues lining way through to staircase; exhibits can be viewed in chronological order dating from Turks’ siege (make sure to see Turkish standard captured during city’s siege in 17th Century; also worth seeing is car in which Archduke Franz Ferdinand traveling when assassinated.
●Museum Moderner Kunst – 1 Museumplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-525-000; mumok.at; Vienna’s largest 20th Century art collection.
●Museum of Technology – 212 Mariahilfer Strasse (14th (“Penzing”) District); 011-43-01-899-980; technischesmuseum.at/besucherinformation/lang/en; among largest & most interesting museums in Vienna; Ks of displays from every branch of technology; from giant steam engines to old-fashion hair blowers, from ancient musical instruments to massive models of boats, or from outdated washing machines to full-size airplanes; real TV studio where you can become anchorman; all of which illustrate impact of technological developments on our everyday life; displays range from early 19th Century through to modern day; older sections actually date from items originally collected by Hapsburg rulers, while ones from 20th & 21st Centuries look at technological development in both industrial usage & consumer items (for example, early stationary fitness bike from 1950s).
●MuseumsQuartier – 1 Museumsplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-525-000; mumok.at; former Hapsburg stables turned into culture complex; Museum of Contemporary Art, for example, housed in basalt lava cube.
●Musikverein – 1 Musikvereinsplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-505-8190; musikverein.at; concert hall home to Vienna Philharmonic orchestra; “Great Hall,” due to highly regarded acoustics, considered among world’s finest concert halls, along with Berlin’s Konzerthaus, Concertgebouw (Amsterdam), Boston’s Symphony Hall & Teatro Colón (Buenos Aires).
●Napoleon Obelisk – in Lobau, off Saltenstrasse & Vorwerkstrasse intersection (22nd (“Donaustadt”) District, down dirt road); where Napoleon protected bridgehead in Mühlau; 400 riders & 5.5K soldiers crossed pontoon bridge here, until it broke & was partly torn away from flood.
●Naschmarkt – 4th (“Wieden”), 5th (“Margareten”) & 6th (“Mariahilf”) Districts; stretches from Karlsplatz to Kettenbruckengasse U-bahn station; filled with stalls stocked with baked goods, flowers, produce, spices; on Saturdays, antiques & bric-a-brac, too; breakfast restaurants line its edges.
●National Park House Vienna-Lobau (Donau-Auen National Park) – 8 Dechantweg (22nd (“Donaustadt”) District); 011-43-014-0004-9495; nph-lobau.wien.at; that part of Donau-Auen National Park that also falls inside Vienna is called Lobau, “jungle” or “water forest”; lies in east Vienna; 2.3K hectares or almost 1/3 entire area of Donau-Auen National Park (1 of 6 Austrian national parks); protects among last remaining large wetlands in Central Europe; home to more than 800 species of plant, 30 mammal & 100 brooding bird species, 8 reptile, 13 amphibian & 60 fish species; beavers, sea eagles, praying mantis, grey herons, small emperor moths & little ringed plovers populate this secretive world; kingfisher, “flying jewel” is also at home here & is National Park symbol; wide range of activities; some bodies of water can even be swum in; exhibitions, informational events & shop; well signposted hiking & cycling network; hike along historic trails, such as 10 km Napoleon loop; as walk in peaceful forest, can imagine what it was like when Ks French soldiers gathered in base camp after combat & prepared artillery & horses for next battle; see Napoleon Obelisk.
●Nationalbibliotek – 1 Josefplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-534-100; onb.ac.at; Vienna’s largest library; grand Prunksaal worth special trip; commissioned by Charles VI, finished in 1735.
●Naturhistorisches Museum – 7 Burgring (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-521-770; nhm-wien.ac.at; Willendorf Venus.
●Neue Burg Museums – 1 Heldenplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-525-240; khm.at; 3 museums in 1 location (musical instrument museum, Ephesus-Samothrace museum & armor museum).
●Otto Wagner Buildings – 6 Linke Wienzeile & Klostergasse (6th (“Mariahilf”), 15th (“Rudolfsheim-Fünfhaus”) & 18th (“Wahring”) Districts); ottowagner.com; problem zone due to flooding, Wien River needed regulating in late 19th Century so its status as natural river completely obliterated; at same time, Otto Wagner wished to turn area between Karlsplatz & Schönbrunn into magnificent boulevard; reality is concrete-bottomed creek (eyesore designed by Wagner) & attractive Wagner houses on Linke Wienzeile; Majolika-Haus (Linke Wienzeile 40 (1899) is prettiest, completely covered in glazed ceramic); corner house (Linke Wienzeile 38, with reliefs from Kolo Moser & shapely bronze figures from Othmar Schimkowitz); another, simpler than these, at Köstlergasse 3; & Kettenbrückengasse U-Bahn station.
●Palais Liechtenstein – 1 Furstengasse (9th (“Alsergrund”) District); 011-43-01-3195-7670; liechtensteinmuseum.at; magnificent private art collection in former prince’s palace; building worth its own visit.
●Papyrus Museum – Heldenplatz Neue Burg (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-5341-0420; onb.ac.at; Nationalbibliothek museum ensemble part; 200 fragment collection of ancient writing on papyrus; among highlights is musical notation on pottery sherd depicting choral ode from Orestes.
●Postsparkasse Museum (Otto Wagner Museum or Wagner: Werk Museum Postsparkasse) – 2 Georg-Coch-Platz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-059-9053-3825; ottowagner.com/museumsinfo/ueber-das-museum; originally Austrian Postal Savings Bank (Österreichische Postsparkasse); Viennese bank director Georg Coch had studied banking systems in other European countries & in 1883 introduced revolutionary system for Austria that would become world standard: Scheckverkehr, or cashless transfers; within few weeks, 200K customers had signed up & Austrian Postal Savings Bank became among most important Austro-Hungarian Empire banks; in 1903, architect Otto Wagner presented plans for new headquarters that would mirror bank’s modern procedures; moving away from usual Vienna style, Wagner planned building in new Jugendstil, or Art Nouveau, movement; occupies entire block, but often goes unnoticed by most passers-by on Ringstrasse because partially hidden; at 1st glance, massive 8-story building with its reinforced concrete structure & marble coating attached to walls by aluminum bolts give solid appearance; facade covered with these aluminum rivets but they don’t mask clear lines; rather, are decorative elements that give bank its cool & simple elegance; on upper parts, more elaborate decorations, like statues of angels holding laurels; go through main door & climbing up dark lobby stairs to experience natural light coming through curved frosted-glass ceiling & illuminating grand Kassenhalle; even floor is made of ultra-thick glass tiles, allowing daylight to reach floor below, where mail sorting rooms located; decoration kept to minimum, putting all emphasis on structure; houses museum devoted to Wagner.
●Rossauer Kaserne (Ministry of National Defense & Sport) – 1 Rossauer Lände (9th (“Alsergrund”) District); 011-43-810-200125; bmlvs.gv.at; gigantic Rossau Barracks are Austria’s Ministry of Defense & Sport headquarters; Kaserne (“barracks”) is historic reminder of 19th Century architecture & that century’s turmoil; like Arsenal, built following 1848 revolts to protect inner city from workers who lived in suburbs; then known as Kronprinz-Rudolf-Kaserne; huge red-brick building that occupies much of Maria-Theresien-Strasse; in its heyday, could quarter 2.4K soldiers & nearly 400 horses; used to be 2nd barracks where Postsparkasse now stands in Georg-Coch-Platz; 2 connected by Ringstrasse ring road.
●Schatzkammer – 1 Schweizerhof (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-525-240; khm.at; Imperial Treasury; contains secular & ecclesiastical treasures of priceless value & splendor (sheer wealth of this collection staggering), e.g., golden rose, diamond studded Turkish sabres, 3K carat Colombian emerald and, imperial crown.
●Schloss Belvedere – 27 Prinz-Eugen-Strasse (3rd (“Landstrasse”) District); 011-43-01-795-570; belvedere.at; among world’s finest baroque palaces; built for brilliant, Turk-conquering military strategist, Prince Eugene of Savoy.
●Schloss Schönbrunn Gardens & Palace – Schlosspark (16th (“Ottakring”) District); 011-43-01-8111-3239; schoenbrunn.at/en.
●Schwarzenberg Park – Exelbergstrasse/Höhenstrasse (17th (“Hernals”) District); wien.gv.at; in West Vienna, adjacent to Vienna Woods; flying kites, hiking, jogging, picnicking & walking; Count Lacy had Neuwaldegg Palace Park laid out in English style in 18th Century, 1st landscaped garden in Austria; some of design features, such as boulevard, ponds & stands of trees can still be seen; on Hameau, park’s highest point, Count had 17 chalets built to accommodate his guests (1 of little houses still in existence); after estate passed to Schwarzenberg family, 80 hectare site called Schwarzenbergpark, city purchased park in 1958 & opened it to general public; for picnic supplies, try Manameierei.
●Secession Building – 12 Friedrichstrasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-1587-5307; secession.at; designed in 1898, most striking feature is enormous golden sphere (prosaically “golden cabbage”) rising from roof turret; above door, mask-like faces with dangling serpents instead of earlobes; 14th exhibition held here (1902) featured Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze, intended only as temporary exhibit, painstakingly restored & permanently on show in basement; ground floor holds contemporary art shows.
●Setagaya Japanese Gardens – 8 Hohe Warte (19th (“Döbling”) District); 011-43-01-4000-8042; wien.gv.at/umwelt/parks/anlagen/setagayapark.html; tiny garden not located that close to city center; nice place to relax after long sightseeing day; spring, waterfall, stones, pool & densely-cultivated plants & trees set on several levels leading to bamboo gate designed as homage to that in Shugakuin Palace Gardens; Japanese teahouse & stone pagoda.
●7th District (Neubau) – (Austro-Bavarian, Neibau); located near city center; 1st established as district in 1850; heavily populated urban area, with major residential & shopping areas; borders are Lerchenfelder Strasse (north), Mariahilfer Strassee (south), Neubaugürtel (west) & Museumstrasse & Museumsplatz (east); many shops offer maps showing all locally made & European sourced clothing shops.
●Sigmund Freud Monument & Park – Universitatsstrasse (9th (“Alsergrund”) District); 011-43-01-4000-8042; wien.gv.at/umwelt/parks/anlagen/freud.html; along tree-lined path is monument to Freud, located on Bellevue-Höhe, his favorite place to walk.
●Sigmund Freud Museum – 19 Berggasse (9th (“Alsergrund”) District); 011-43-01-319-1596; freud-museum.at; in his Vienna apartment.
●Spanish Riding School of Vienna – 1 Michaelerplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-533-9031; srs.at/en_US/start-en; l traditional riding school for Lipizzan horses, which perform in Winter Riding School in Hofburg; not only is it classical dressage center, but also headquarters is tourist attraction in Vienna that offers public performances, as well as permitting public viewing of some training sessions.
●St. Marx Cemetery – 6-8 Leberstrasse (3rd (“Landstrasse”) District); 011-43-01-4000-8042; wien.gv.at/umwelt/parks/anlagen/friedhof-st-marx.html; named after nearby almshouse whose chapel had been consecrated to St. Mark; opened in 1784 following Emperor Joseph II’s decree forbidding further burials in cemeteries within city’s outer walls; he also ordered that bodies should be buried in unmarked graves, without coffins or embalming (this regulation never went into effect because city government denied its approval, populace not wanting to be reminded of plague-time mass graves; thus common assumption that Mozart’s grave unmarked because he was too poor is false - his burial in 1791 after funeral in Stephansdom simply followed regulations of times; notable internments include: Anna Gottlieb; Johann Georg Albrechtsberger; Josef Strauss; Anton Diabelli; Count Philipp von Cobenzl; Alexander Ypsilanti; Franz Pfeiffer; Franz Xaver Süssmayr (unmarked); Baron Ernst von Feuchtersleben; Louis Montoyer; Josef Madersperger; Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart; & Elias Parish Alvars; in 1855 gravestone erected at what was presumed to be correct spot for Mozart’s grave; later stone transferred to group of famous musician graves at Zentralfriedhof; at St. Marx Cemetery, worker replaced gravestone with memorial tablet, again expanded by several contributors; memorial known today refurbished by Viennese sculptor Florian Josephu-Drouot in 1950; over years, cemetery decayed; in 20th Century restored, put under historic preservation status & opened to the public in 1937.
●St. Stephen’s Cathedral – 3 Stephansplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-015-1552-3054; stephansdom.or.at/index.jsp?langid=2&menuekeyvalue=2.
●Theatremuseum – 2 Lobkowitzplatz (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-01-5252-4610; theatermuseum.at; worth seeing just for architecture, built in 1600s.
●Tiergarten – 13b Maxingstrasse (13th (Hietzing) District); 011-43-01-877-9294; zoovienna.at; world’s oldest zoo.
●21er Haus – 1 Arsenalstrasse (10th (“Favoriten”) District); 011-43-01-7955-7700; 21erhaus.at/en; 20th & 21st Century Austrian art.
●Undertakers’ Museum (Bestattungsmuseum Wien) – 234 Simmeringer Hauptstrasse (4th (“Wieden”) District); 011-43-01-76067; bestattungsmuseum.at/eportal2; modern, interactive museum beneath historic chapel; features “Viennese cult of dead” exhibits, from 18th Century’s end until today, including original Fourgon (coach for transporting bodies) from 1900, heart palpitation knife & life-saving clock are most bizarre exhibits, dating as they do to time when people worried about being buried alive; 1784 foldaway coffin, which Emperor Joseph II used in order to be able to recycle coffins several times; video of funeral of Emperor Franz Joseph in 1916 can be watched on 13 monitors.
●Urania Observatory (Urania Sternwarte) – 1 Uraniastrasse (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District, at entrance “Turmstiege”); 011-43-01-1729-5494 or 011-43-89-174-150-000; planetarium-wien.at; built by Art Nouveau style architect Max Fabiani (1909) by Franz Joseph I as educational facility with public observatory; severely damaged in WWII, dome being totally destroyed; after its reconstruction, reopened in 1957; presently, has seminar rooms in which wide-ranging classes & lectures given, movie theater that screens at annual Viennale movie festival & puppet theater; also restaurant.
●Volksoper Wien – 78 Wahringer Strasse (9th (“Alsergrund”) District); 011-43-01-514-4430; volksoper.at; 1 of 4 Viennese opera houses.
●Volkstheater – 1 Neustiftgasse (7th (“Neubau”) District); 011-43-01-52-111; volkstheater.at; opened in 1889; Belle Epoque architecture marvel.
●Weiner Eislaufverein – 22 Lothringerstrasse (7th (“Neubau”) District); 011-43-01-713-6353; wev.or.at; in winter, ice-skating.
●Weiner Konzerthaus – 20 Lothringerstrasse (7th (“Neubau”) District, at 5 Karlsplatz); 011-43-01-242-002; konzerthaus.at.
●Weiner Staatsballett – 2 Opernring (1st (“Innere Stadt”) District); 011-43-051-444-2250; wiener-staatsoper.at; ballet.
●Werkbundsiedlung – 32 Woinovichgasse (13th (“Hietzing”) District, small information center re entire area); werkbundsiedlung-wien.at/en; in 19th Century, Vienna’s suburbs develop as immigrants come to live in city; 13th District becomes attractive address because of proximity to Habsburgs’ summer residence at Schönbrunn; today there are many beautiful villas in area, designed by some of Vienna’s most prominent architects; however, something completely different situated at top of hill between Jagdschlossgasse & Veitingergasse: housing estate known as Werkbundsiedlung; founded in Germany in 1907 Deutscher Werkbund (German Work Federation), association of architects, designers & industrialists interested in modern architecture & industrial design; influential group became important in creation of Bauhaus school of design; in 1930 Vienna’s socialist city council organized Werkbund Housing Exhibition & invited modernist architects to design & build affordable, 2-bedroom family house in small space; city officials hope new homes will provide inventive alternative to enormous housing blocks constructed in 1920s (like for example Karl-Marx-Hof); ; over years, some of buildings were sold, but most were taken over by Vienna City Council shortly before WWII & used as rental accommodation; 4 destroyed during WWII but rest are still inhabited & renovated in 1980s; current buildings appear to once again require renovation but planned refurbishment for area made more problematic by fact that some of them are now in private hands.
●Werkl im Goethehof – 1 Schüttaustrasse (22nd (“Donaustadt”) District); 011-43-01-967-9654; wien.gv.at/wiki/index.php/Goethehof; urban residential complex built 1928-30, according to plans by Hugo Mayer, Rudolf Frass, Viktor Mittag, Karl Hauschka, Heinrich Schopper, Alfred Chalousch & Johann Rothmüller; in February, 1934, Goethehof damaged as last bastion of Republican Schutzbund, ultimately taken by Dollfuss government forces later that month; in courtyard was showcase Montessori kindergarten.
●Wotruba Church (Kirche Zur Heiligsten Dreifaltigkeit or Church of Holy Trinity) – (23rd (“Liesing”) District); seems more like an abstract sculpture than a sacred place; stands on small hill named Sankt Georgenberg, looking down on Vienna; composed of 152 giant concrete blocks of different sizes, weighing between 2 & 140 tons, superimposed over each other like Lego blocks; apparent chaos of asymmetrical blocks creates contrast with harmonious whole of surprisingly large space inside building; built according to plans of its creator, Fritz Wotruba, who was among most important & influential sculptors of 20th Century in Austria.
●Wurstelprater Amusement Park (“Prater”) – 123 Prater (2nd (“Leopoldstadt”) District); 011-43-01-729-2000; praterservice.at.de; Wiener Prater is large public park; Wurstelprater amusement park stands in 1 corner Wiener Prater & includes Wiener Riesenrad (big ferris wheel seen in Third Man); Hauptallee (main avenue) is main artery, lined with horse chestnut trees, closed to motorists & known to sports enthusiasts from annual Vienna Marathon; Wiener Prater also home to Liliputbahn, narrow gauge railway; another unusual item in Wiener Prater is Republik Kugelmugel, spherical micronation; Wiener Prater also houses planetarium & Prater Museum.
●Zentralfriedhof (Vienna Central Cemetery) – 234 Simmeringer Hauptstrasse (11th (“Simmering”) District); 011-43-015-34690; friedhoefewien.at; city’s largest & most famous cemetery where “personalities” such as Ludwig Van Beethoven, Johannes Brahms, Franz Schubert, Johan Strauss & more modern celebrities like pop star Falco are buried; visitors pass Gate 1 (access point to old Israelite section); lush green burial ground with lots of architecturally interesting monuments & Jewish personalities’ graves (in Group 5b are Arthur Schnitzler & Friedrich Torberg); walking along cemetery wall, arrive at main gate (Gate 2), built by Max Hegele in Art Nouveau style in 1905; through this main gate, walk on main path toward “Friedhofskirche zum heiligen Karl Borromäus” (Church of St. Borromeo, built by Hegele between 1908-10); both to left (Groups 32a & 14a) & right (Groups 32c & 14c) of this main roadway is Grave of Honor, probably largest such arrangement of special honorary tombs in world (Gluck, Beethoven, Schubert, Hugo Wolf, Johann Strauss Father & Son, Lanner & Brahms buried in Group 32a, Arnold Schönberg & Robert Stolz in Group 32c); directly in front of Memorial Church is Austrian presidents (who have died since 1945) mausoleum (Renner, Körner, Schärf, Jonas); Mozart given honorary monument in Group 32a, but actual grave is in unknown location at Cemetery of St. Marx; in 2015, urn of singer, pianist & composer Udo Jürgens found its final resting place within white marmoreal piano, close to jazz pianist Joe Zawinul & actor Fritz Muliar (Group 33g); across Simmeringer Hauptstrasse from main gate is Crematorium, built by Clemens Holzmeister in 1922 in oriental fortress style; further along cemetery wall, reach Gate 3, secondary entrance & entrance to Protestant section; Gate 4, is access to new Jewish section that has been in use since 1928; Funeral Museum has also been located at Central Cemetery since October 2014; detailed Central Cemetery & Grave of Honor map can be bought from cemetery guard at Gate 2, along with Audio-Picture-Guide.
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