Tuesday, July 26, 2011


Bohemian Bagel – 48 Dukelskych Hrdinu; 011-420-220-806-541; bohemianbagel.cz; life-saver for pining Americans.
Erhartova Cukrarna – 56 Milady Horakove; 011-420-233-312-148; erhartcafe.cz; try apple tart; 1937-vintage confectionary, recently renovated.
Muj Salek Kavy – 105 Križíkova (Karlin); 011-420-222-981-874; mujsalekkavy.cz; city’s best breakfast.
Mysak Pastry Shop – 31 Vodickova; 011-420-731-653-813; gallerymysak.cz; founded in 1911; try karamelovy pohar (ice cream with caramel, chocolate, and walnuts).
Standard Cafe – 23 Karoliny Svetle; 011-420-606-606-806; standard-cafe.cz; coffee shop.

Blind Eye – 26 Vikova; blindeye.cz; grungy former speakeasy; customers still have to ring buzzer to get in.
Buddha Bar – 8 Jakubska; 011-420-221-776-400; buddha-bar-hotel.cz; lounge aimed at over-30 set; in Old Town’s heart.
U Cerneho Vola (“Black Ox”) – 1 Loretanske Namesti; 011-420-220-513-481; revolutionary era pub.
Cloud 9 – 1 Pobrezni (in Hilton Prague, different from Hilton Prague Old Town); 011-420-224-842-999; cloud9.cz; sky-high venue; spectacular views; popular with soccer players.
Jazz Dock – 2 Janáčkovo Nábřeží (Smichov); 011-420-774-058-838; jazzdock.cz/en; among city’s best live music spots; great international acts like John Abercrombie and Legendary Pink Dots, as well as local favorites like Tony Ackerman and Kasparin Quartet, have performed here.
Klamovka – 2051 Podbelohorska; 011-420-602-604-011; zahradnirestaurace.cz; rustic beer garden and 1-time hippie haven; touristed-up inside but still rustic outside.
Klub Ujezd – 18 Ujezd; 011-420-257-316-537; klubujezd.cz; alternative; open till 4 am; 1st floor bar least intimidating.
Merenda – 74 Husitska; 011-420-222-782-004; merenda.cz; great goulash but primarily beer destination.
Beer Point Pub – 605/4 Mikovcova (near metro station I.P. Pavlova, at Nota Bene, downstairs); 011-420-721-299-131; notabene-restaurant.cz; known for beer selection; lists 6-12 draft options; good wine selection, too (including French).
Obzerstvi – 327 Jakobiho; 011-420-774-879-697; obzerstvi.cz; stumpy brick building overshadowed by apartment buildings; long benches and rough-hewed tables; rare “craft brews” from across republic.
U Kocoura (“Tomcat”) – 2 Nerudova; 011-420-257-530-107; gritty, original, political dissident pub.
U Medvidku – 7 Na Perstyne; 011-420-22-422-1916; umedvidku.cz; hotel and microbrewery.
Veltlin – 488-115 Krizikova; 011-420-721-853-482; veltlin.cz; wine bar.
Vltava – 2084 Rasinovo Nabrezi; 011-420-224-930-015; restauracevltava.cz; pub where Vaclav Havel and fellow rebels discussed “Charter 77,” 1977 anti-communist manifesto.
Vzorkovna – 13 Bartolomějská (Old Town); facebook.com/pages/Vzorkovna/164729246969558; multifunctional bar space in Old Town; pulls in hip, punky youths; anything-goes mentality that has customers drinking till dawn, impromptu concerts by anyone so inclined, monkey bars across ceiling for climbing and even make-out room in back.
Zly Casy – 5 Cestmirova (Prague 4-Nusle); 011-420-723-339-995; zlycasy.edu; among few pubs in Prague not bound to national beer distributor; all local produced.

Aria Hotel – 9 Trziste; 011-420-225-334-111; ariahotel.net; Italian modern décor and “can do” service; former guests include Heidi Klum and Morgan Freeman; has free access to 18th Century terraced and statue-filled garden of Vrtbovska Garden, which can be viewed from gym.
Augustine – 12 Letenska; 011-420-266-112-233; theaugustine.com; renovation and restoration of 7 different buildings, including 13thCentury St. Thomas Monastery; 101 guest rooms, some with exposed beams; all rooms have views of Prague Castle, city skyline, monastery, chapel, or 1 of 3 gardens; grotto bar; next door to Wallenstein Garden.
Domus Henrici – 11 Loretanska; 011-420-220-511-369; domus-henrici.cz; small 14th Century gem; 8 rooms; tucked discreetly in Castle District.
Four Seasons – 2a Veleslavinova; 011-420-221-427-000 or 800-819-5053; fourseasons.com/prague.
Fusion – 9 Panska; 011-420-226-222-800; fusionhotels.com; affordable, artsy, boutique-style rooms and dorm-like group lodgings, with rotating ground-floor bar and 2 cool restaurants packed with locals.
Grand Hotel Praha – 20 Staroměstské Náměstí (Old Town Square); 011-420-221-632-556; grandhotelpraha.cz; by astronomical clock; building preserves true historic atmosphere in structural details; unique combination all Prague historical periods; breakfast served on ground floor in restaurant; romantic place with ancient clock collection; 35 rooms, individually decorated and equipped with beautifully restored antique furniture; all rooms have modern facilities.
Hotel Paris – 1 U Obecniho Domu; 011-420-222-195-195; hotel-pariz.cz; built in 1904.
Hotel Yasmin – 12 Politickych Veznu; 011-420-234-100-869; hotel-yasmin.cz; stylish.
House at Big Boot – 30 Vlasska; 011-420-257-533-234; volweb.cz/ripple.
Kempinski Hybernska – 12 Hybernska; 011-420-226-111; kempinski.com; 75 rooms, most of which are suites.
Mandarin Oriental – 1 Nebovidska; 011-420-233-088-888; mandarinoriental.com; 99 rooms in expanded and renovated, 14th Century monastery in Mala Strana, quarter at Prague Castle’s foot; loveliest of all Prague neighborhoods; spacious rooms, many with high, vaulted ceilings; oak parquet, leather-and-wenge wood entertainment armoires; Asian touches to décor; restaurant is local sensation; April-October and winter holidays best time to go; rooms like #117 in old convent portion have most character.
Maximilian Hotel – 14 Haštalská; 011-420-22-530-3111; maximilianhotel.com; low-key design hotel in central but quiet location; located on Haštalské Náměstí in Jewish Quarter, faces handsome St. Hastal church (also, make sure to see door at 6 Haštalská); 10-15 minutes from here to main areas like Old Town Square, Charles Bridge & Wenceslas Square; spans 2 buildings (Black House & Red House), 1 of which originally designed by Czech architectural critic-historian Karel Teige in 1920s; has been given slick makeover by contemporary designer Eva Jiricna (who also designed Hotel Josef nearby); from backlit yellow onyx reception wall to Eileen Gray chairs & historic Czech artworks peppered throughout public spaces, overall feel is considered & distinguished; 70 deluxe & superior deluxe rooms & just 1 suite; all feature bold, imaginative color schemes, Art Deco furnishings & rain showers (suite boasts glass-partitioned bathroom with Philippe Starck tub & shower); most face courtyard but some have front views; amenities span LCD televisions, CD players & minibars; breakfast is decent spread & can be enjoyed in bright & breezy restaurant or outside in courtyard.
One Room Hotel – 2699/1 Mahlerovy Sady; 011-420-21-032-0081; oneroomhotel.cz; Communist-era television tower; spacious concrete & steel cabin fitted with Vitra furniture and Philippe Starck tub that hovers 230' above city; floor-to-ceiling windows & 24-hour butler service.
Prague Imperial Hotel – 15 Na Porici; 011-420-24-601-1600; hotel-imperial.cz.
Sheraton Prague Square – 8 Zitna; 011-420-22-599-9999; Sheraton.com/prague.
U Medvidku – 7 Na Perstyne; 011-420-22-422-1916; umedvidku.cz; hotel and microbrewery.

Aromi – 1442/78 Mánesova; 011-420-222-713-222; aroma.cz; seafood; beloved Italian restaurant.
Bistro 19 – 19 Karoliny Svetle; 011-420-776-797-242; no19.cz; homestyle fare like roast chicken and ratatouille.
Bohe(my)a Rooftop Cafe – 26 Narodni (at Tesco Department Store); 011-420-601-390-025; facebook.com/Bohemyabar; burgers, baba ghanouj, and other Mediterranean fare.
Bohemian Bagel – 48 Dukelskych Hrdinu; 011-420-220-806-541; bohemianbagel.cz; life-saver for pining Americans.
La Bottega – 11 Platnerska; 011-420-222-233-094; labottega.cz; more like shop or store (sells many ingredients and take-away foods) but also serves full meals.
Cafe Savoy – 5 Vitezna; 011-420-257-311-562; ambi.cz.
Café Slavia – 2 Smetanovo Nabrezi; 011-420-224-218-493; cafeslavia.cz; old-time, revolutionary base, now with appallingly rude service.
Celeste Restaurant – 80 Rasinovo Nabrezi (in Gehry’s Dancing House, on top floor); 011-420-221-984-160; celesterestaurant.cz; frill-free French cuisine.
Cerny Kohout – 9 Vojtesska; 011-420-25-168-1191; cernykohout.cz; homey.
CottoCrudo – 2a Veleslavinova (in Four Seasons Hotel); 011-420-221-426-880; fourseasons.com/prague; Italian.
Essenis – 1 Nebovidska; 011-420-233-088-888; mandarinoriental.com.
La Finestra in Cucina – Platnerska 13; 011-420-222-325-325; lafinestra.cz; cavernous Italian restaurant that focuses on meat (its sister, Aromi, is seafood);
Grand Cafe Orient – 19 Ovocny; 011-420-224-224-240; grandcafeorient.cz.
Hergetova Cihelna – 2b Cihelná (Mala Strana); 011-420-296-826-103; kampagroup.com; whole point here is to get riverside terrace seat, which has unparalleled Charles Bridge view (must reserve several days in advance); 18th Century building once served as brick factory (cihelna); modern restaurant with very good food.
Kampa Park Restaurant – 8b Na Kampě (Mala Strana); 011-420-296-826-112; kampagroup.com; worth cost if can get riverside tables; menu appears ordinary, but in fact high quality.
Las Adelitas – 13 Male Namesti (Stare Mesto); 011-420-222-233-247; lasadelitas.cz; not Czech-Mex, but, prepared by Mexican expatriates, authentic Mexican food.
Lokal – 33 Dlouha; 011-420-222-316-265; ambi.cz/ambiente-lokal-kontakt.php; classic Czech pub, only better; try svickova na smetane (beef tenderloin in cream sauce) with bread dumplings (fluffy).
Luka Lu – 33 Ujezd; 011-420-257-212-388; lukalu.cz; Croatian-Serbian restaurant; loud due to nearby trains; try homemade bread, cheese-stuffed peppers, rich meat patties, and baklava; gypsy music on occasion.
Nota Bene – 605/4 Mikovcova (near metro station I.P. Pavlova); 011-420-721-299-131; notabene-restaurant.cz; exemplifies Prague’s youthful crush on local and seasonal cuisine; stands out from gritty neighborhood with airy décor (exposed bricks, high ceilings, and period photographs); graffiti-like lettering on back wall states kitchen gets ingredients from Czech farms; playful blend contemporary regional recipes and traditional flavors; try juicy, pepper-crusted presticke cernostrakate prase (Czech Republic heritage hog breed) chop, which resembles inch-thick bacon slice, set atop buttery, nutty mashed potato mound; completely nonsmoking.
Oblaca – 2699/1 Mahlerovy Sady (at One Room Hotel); 011-420-210-320-086; towerpark.cz/en/restaurant; Communist-era television tower; upscale Czech food.
Oliva – 4 Plavecka; 011-420-222-520-288; olivarestaurant.cz; French-ish, under-radar, modest prices.
Pálffy Palác – 158/14 Valdštejnská (Mala Strana); 011-420-257-530-522; palffy.cz/en; in bad weather, eat in 17th Century baroque dining room, complete with candles, crystal chandeliers, and impossibly beautiful place settings; in summer, sit on terrace just below Prague Castle; good, continental cuisine.
Jan Paukert – 17 Narodni Trida; 011-420-224-222-615; janpaukert.cz; 83 year-old deli specializing in open-face sandwiches.
Peter’s Burger Pub – 32 Pernerova; 011-420-222-312-091; burgerpub.cz; high-end hamburgers; try Wellington; traditional Czech tavern atmosphere.
Pho Vietnam Tuan & Lan – 15 Anglicka (Vinohrady); 011-420-773-688-689; photuanlan.com; surprisingly excellent.
Pivovar Basta – 49 Tabprsla; 011-420-261-222-530; urban sethu.cz; brewpub.
Pivovarsky dum – 15 Lipova; 011-420-296-216-666; beer pub.
Pivovarsky klub – 17 Krizikova; 011-420-222-315-777.
Red Hot Chilli – 123/69 Křižíkova (Karlin); 011-420-607-780-717; Vietnamese; 1st Vietnamese bistro in Prague to serve, in addition to other meals, traditional Vietnamese breakfasts and bahn mi.
Sansho – 25 Petrska; 011-420-222-317-425; fact that is in former 12th Century church is unrelated to starkly modern cuisine; Pan-Asian fusion menu.
Standard Cafe – 23 Karoliny Svetle; 011-420-606-606-806; standard-cafe.cz; best for lunch; soup.
Tynska Literarni Kavarna – 6 Tynska; 011-420-224-827-807; tynska.cz; literary cafe and bookstore.
U Zlateho Tygra – 17 Husova; 011-420-222-221-111; uzlatehotygra.cz; pub grub.
V Zatisi – 1 Liliova; 011-420-222-221-155; vzatisi.cz; Milan Kundera’s fave; duckling & herb dumplings.
Vino di Vino – 3 Vezenska; 011-420-222-312-999; vinodivino.cz; wine bar.
Yaku – 5 Petrske Namesti (Nove Mesto); 011-420-725-555-305; facebook.com/YakuBbq; Japanese grilled foods.
Zly Casy – 5 Cestmirova (Namestri Bratri Synku suburb); 011-420-604-241-454; zlycasy.eu; microbrewery that serves food.

Art of Your Travel – 520/4 Melounová; 011-420-603-481-556; artofyourtravel.com or martina@artofyourtravel.com; private tours; ask for Martina Gregorcova, who is fluent in English.

Artel Design Shop – 29 Celetna (entrance on Rybna); 011-420-224-815-085; artelglass.com; crystal and glass.
Botanicus – 3 Tyn; 011-420-234-767-446; botanicus.cz; on-spot aromatherapy; Czech Republic’s answer to Body Shop.
La Bottega – 11 Platnerska; 011-420-222-233-094; labottega.cz; Italian ingredients and take-away foods.
Futurista – 51 Betlemske Nanesti; 011-420-222-311-453; futurista.cz; new boutique feature local crystal designers’ work.
Holesovice District – across river from old town.
Hunt Kastner Artworks – 22 Kamenicka; 011-420-233-376-259; huntkastner.com; single-room gallery; up and coming artists include Josef Bolf and Daniel Pitin.
Jiri Svestka Gallery – 6 Biskupsky Dvur; 011-420-222-311-092; jirisvestka.com; local artists; hard to find.
Kratochvilovci – 15 Týnská; 011-420-222-312-516; kratochvilovci.cz; liquor store; only place for Hammer Head whiskey, bizarre, pre-Velvet Revolution Czech single malt released couple of years ago to rave reviews.
Material – 7 U Luzickeho Seminare; 011-420-257-530-046; i-material.com; super-charged reinterpretation of Czech traditional glassware.
Galerie 35m2 – 23 Vita Nejedleho; 011-420-222-721-731; gallery with pub attached.
Karlin Studios – 34 Krizikova; 011-420-251-511-804; karlinstudios.cz; art.
Lavmi Boutique – 18 Truhlarska; 011-420-739-368-695; lavmi.cz; locally designed wallpaper.
Tynska Literarni Kavarna – 6 Tynska; 011-420-224-827-807; tynska.cz; literary cafe and bookstore.
Umelecke Sklenarstvi Jiricka-Coufal – 14 Milosrdnych; 011-420-737-666-851; vitraz.cz; artisanal glassworks where some of St. Vitus Cathedral’s stained-glass windows made.

Clementinum (National Library) – 5 Mariánské Náměstí; 011-420-222-220-879; klementinum.com; dates from existence of chapel dedicated to Saint Clement in 11th Century; Dominican monastery founded in medieval period, which was transformed in 1556 to Jesuit college; in 1622 Jesuits transferred Charles University library to Klementinum, & college was merged with University in 1654; Jesuits remained until 1773, when Klementinum established as library, observatory & university by Austria Empress Maria Theresa; National Library founded in 1781; collection of Mozartiana, material pertaining to Tycho Brahe and Comenius, as well as historic examples of Czech literature; architecture is notable example of Baroque architecture and Clementinum, covering 20K square meters, is second largest complex of buildings in Prague after Prague Castle.
Dancing House – 80 Rasinovo Nabrezi; 1 of Prague’s most prominent modern buildings; curvy riverfront structure designed by Frank Gehry and Vlado Milunic.
Detsky Ostrov (Children’s Island) – between Janackovo & Masarykovo Nabrezi, and Most Legli & Jiraskuv Most; prazska-hriste.cz; connected to embankment by footbridge; grounds include great new sandboxes, jungle gyms, swings and slides, with plenty of shady trees and lots of benches for parents.
Dox Center for Contemporary Art – 34 Osadni; 011-420-224-930-927; doxprague.org; 30K square feet exhibition space.
Estates Theater – 11 Zelezna; 011-420-224-902-322; estatestheatre.cz; 1 of Europe’s most beautiful theaters; where Mozart’s Don Giovanni debuted.
Galerie Rudolfinum – 12 Alsovo Nabrezi; 011-420-227-059-205; galerierudolfinum.cz.
Golden Lane – narrow alley, lined with candy-colored, 1-room houses from 16th Century; named for goldsmiths who once lived there; highlight is #22, where Kafka lived from 1916-1917.
Hanavasky Pavillon (Pražský Restaurant) – 173 Letenské Sady; 011-420-233-323-641; hanavsky-pavilon.cz; among most impressive Art Nouveau structures in city; originally built as representative pavilion for Komárov Ironworks at 1891 Prague Jubilee Exhibition; 1st cast iron structure in Prague; today, luxury restaurant with among most beautiful panoramic views of Prague bridges.
House of Black Madonna – 34 Celetna; 011-420-224-211-746; ngprague.cz; home of Czech Cubist movement.
Jewish Ghetto – largest Jewish ghetto in Europe.
Jungmannovo namesti – square in New Town, with cubist lamps and church from 1347 (Church of Our Lady of Snows).
Lyckovo Namesti Square – Karlin; prettiest square in Prague; immense, Mucha-style murals dating from early 20th Century; on some nearby buildings, scars from 2002 flood high-water line.
Maisel Synagogue – 1 Vezenska; 011-420-221-711-511; jewishmuseum.cz; built in 1868.
Meet Factory – 15 Ke Sklarne; 011-420-251-551-796; meetfactory.cz; large cinema, exhibition space, and studio.
Museum of Czech Cubism – 34 Celetna (at 19 Ovocny); 011-420-224-211-746; museum situated in Prague’s center; in outstanding piece of Cubist architecture by Josef Gocar, “Black Madonna House,” where Celetna Street meets Ovocny trh; house dates from 1911-12, designed for Frantisek Josef Herbst as department store with cafe on 1st floor.
Museum Kampa – 2 U Sovovych Mlynu; 011-420-257-286-147; museumkampa.cz.
Old Jewish Cemetery – 1 Izraelská; 011-420-226-235-248; kehilaprag.cz; Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel buried here (Golem-idea creator).
Prague Castle Complex – city center; 011-420-22-437-3368; hrad.cz/en/prazsky_hrad/katedrala_vita.shtml; history of more than 1.1K years; in 870s Prince Borivoj, 1 of 1st Czech rulers from Premyslids Dynasty ordered Castle built, originally out of timber and with soil rampart fortification.
Prague Orloj (Astronomical Clock) – Old Town Square; 011-420-724-911-556; praguewelcome.cz; medieval astronomical clock.
Rosenberg Palace – 2 Jirska Street; 011-420-22-437-3368; hrad.cz/en/prazsky_hrad/katedrala_vita.shtml; part of Prague Castle Complex; 16th Century building with spectacular chapel frescoes and restored rooms.
St. Vitus Cathedral – Prague Castle Complex; 011-420-22-437-3368; prague.net/st-vitus-cathedral; original name is St. Vitus, St. Wenceslas, and St. Adalbert Cathedral; biggest and most important church in Czech Republic; Prague Archbishop’s seat; where Bohemian emperors, kings, princes, and saints buried; Bohemian kings’ coronations held on-site until 1836; significant Gothic architecture example.
Tyn Church – 5 Celetna (Staromestske Nemesti, in old town square); 011-420-7-3116-7679; tynska.farnost.cz; note lone Green Man inside portico facing Old Town Square, top of 2nd arch from left; gothic; from 1300s CE.
U Nováků – 30 Vodičkova; 011-420-2-2422-2100; dumunovaku.cz/history.html; former department store opened in 1904, now transformed into casino; marvelous Secession façade decorated with colorful Jan Preisler mosaic depicting allegories of Commerce & Industry & little stuccoed frogs.

Fashion Walk – start at Navarila (4/11 Elisky Krasnohorske, navarila.cz) and pick up Czech fashion center map.
Zizkov Rail Trail – head toward Hlavni Nadrazi, near Wenceslas Square’s top, then east up Seifertova Street; pass under railway bridge and follow up embankment to what was once small railway branch line; hemmed by elder trees and lined in some sections with herb gardens, follow paved path directly behind some of Zizkov’s most beautiful 19th Century apartment buildings; views onto each pavlac (communal balcony) offer sense of what life must have been like 50-100 years ago.

No comments:

Post a Comment