Friday, July 22, 2011

LOUISVILLE

BAKERIES, COFFEE & TEA
Cake Flour – 909 East Market Street, Suite 100; 502-719-0172; cakeflouronmarket.com; baked goods, both savory and sweet.
Heine Brothers’ Coffee – 1295 Bardstown Road; 502-456-5108; heinebroscoffee.com; shares passageway with Carmichael’s bookstore.
Hillbilly Tea – 120 South 1st Street; 502-587-7350; hillbillytea.com.
Nord’s – 2118 South Preston Street (at Atwood Street); 502-634-0931; www.nordsbakery.biz; decrepit-looking vintage bakery; notable for donuts; must-tries include toasted-coconut Long Johns and maple bacon.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Holy Grale – 1034 Bardstown Road; 502-459-9939; holygralelouisville.com; in century-old church; dark, snug tavern with polished bar running its length; fine beer selection.
Louisville Beer Store – 746 East Market Street; 502-569-2337; louisvillebeerstore.com; both bottles and tap; on pleasant nights, fire pit warms back patio.
Old Seelbach Bar – 500 4th Street; 502-585-3200; seelbachhilton.com; F. Scott Fitzgerald, while stationed in Louisville, drank here.
Zanzabar – 2100 South Preston Street; 502-635-9227; zanzabarlouisville.com; cheap whiskey at horseshoe-shaped bar; live music; closing time is 4 a.m. (as is almost all over Louisville).



HOTELS
Brown Hotel – 355 West Broadway; 502-583-1234 or 888-387-0498; brownhotel.com; open since 1923; bar is major hangout for both locals and visitors.
21C Museum Hotel – 700 West Main Street; 502-217-6300 or 877-217-6400; 21cmuseumhotel.com; 91-room hotel, hung with works from owner’s private collection; good restaurant; avoid Derby week (1st in May); luxury king rooms best; consistently ranked among world’s best hotels; try to book suite with Asleep in Cyclone art installation (has to be seen to be believed).



RESTAURANTS
Corbett’s Fine Dining – 5050 Norton Healthcare Boulevard; ; 502-327-5058; corbettsrestaurant.com.
Doc Crows – 127 West Main Street; 502-587-1626; doccrows.com; in restored, cast iron façade building on Whiskey Row.
Hillbilly Tea – 120 South 1st Street; 502-587-7350; hillbillytea.com; try moonshine breakfast.
Jack Fry’s – 1007 Bardstown Road; 502-452-9244; jackfrys.com; open since 1933; popular dining spot with classic “Old South” atmosphere.
Mike Linnig’s – 9308 Cane Run Road; beer garden and drive-in famous for fish sandwiches and apple cider; eat at picnic tables or in screened cabins.
Milkwood – 316 West Main Street; 502-584-6455; facebook.com/MilkWood.Louisville; Southern food.
Proof on Main – 700 West Main Street (at 21C Museum Hotel); 502-217-6300; 21cmuseumhotel.com.
732 Social – 732 East Market Street; 502-583-6882; 732social.com; bold, small plates; try liver with peanuts and chili.
610 Magnolia – 610 West Magnolia Avenue; 502-636-0783; American-Korean fusion; lamb shank ragu is great.



SHOPPING
Carmichael’s – 1295 Bardstown Road; 502-456-6950; carmichaelsbookstore.com; great bookstore, attached to Heine Brothers’ Coffee.
Green Building – 732 East Market Street; 502-561-1162; thegreenbuilding.net; 110 year-old former mill now contemporary arts venue.
Paul Paletti Gallery – 713 East Market Street; 502-589-9254; paulpalettigallery.com; rotating contemporary and historic photography exhibits.
Swanson Reed Contemporary – 638 East Market Street (NuLu); 502-589-5466; swansonreedgallery.com; art gallery.
Zephyr Gallery – 610 East Market Street (NuLu); 502-585-5646; zephyrgallery.org; installation works, paintings, and videos from national and regional artists.



SIGHTS & SITES
Actors Theater of Louisville – 316 West Main Street; 502-584-1205; actorstheatre.org; home of Humana Festival of New America Plays; testing ground for new works.
Bardstown Road-Baxter Avenue – corridor lined with bars, cafes, galleries, restaurants, and shops.
Cave Hill Cemetery – 701 Baxter Avenue; 502-451-5630; cavehillcemetery.com; lush, Victorian-era graveyard; Col. Sanders is buried here.
Cherokee Park – 745 Cochran Hill Road; 502-456-8100; louisvilleky.gov/metroparks/parks/cherokee/; among Frederick Law Olmstead’s last and wildest creations; 400 acres hills, meadows, and trails.
Churchill Downs – 700 Central Avenue; 502-636-4400; churchilldowns.com.
East Market District – dubbed “NuLu” for New Louisville; among city’s best revitalization projects; neighborhood features antique shops and shiny new galleries.
Kentucky Center for Arts – 501 West Main Street; 502-562-0100; kentuckycenter.org.
Kentucky Derby Museum – 704 Central Avenue; 502-637-7097; derbymuseum.org.
Museum Row – West Main Street; museumrowonmain.com; odd confederation of galleries and museums.
Muhammad Ali Center – 144 North 6th Street; 502-584-9254; alicenter.org; celebrates his career.
Wagner’s Pharmacy – 3113 South 4th Street; 502-375-3800; wagnerspharmacy.com; where jockeys used to hang out; lunch counter is famous.

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