Thursday, July 28, 2011

COPENHAGEN

(includes Hornbæk)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA

Coffee Collective – 10 Jaegersborggade; 011-45-6015-1525; coffecollective.dk; has won as many awards as 30 Rock.
Conditori La Glace – 3 Skoubogade; 011-45-3314-4646; laglace.dk/en; to experience Copenhagen 100 years ago; order sportskage.
Lagkagehuset – 45 Torvegade; lagkagehuset.dk; 011-45-3257-3607; artful and delicious pastries.
Meyers Bageri – 9 Jaegersborggade; 011-45-2510-1134; small “luxury” bakery.
Ro Chokolade – 25 Jægersborggade; 011-45-3696-6519; ro-chokolade.com; artisanal chocolates & ice creams.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Bar Rouge – 22 Krystalgade; 011-45-3345-9100; sktpetri.com.
Black Swan – 93 Borgergade; 011-45-3315-0018; blackswanbar.dk; quaint; 15 beer taps, specializing in Danish microbrewery products (although beers from Belgium, Lithuania & US frequently on tap); also has impressive selection of quality whiskies & rums; rugby bar.
Harbo Bar – 2D Blågårdsgade (Nørrebro); facebook.com/Harbobar; recycled interiors, cheap drinks & odd exhibition or performance make this lo-fi bar.
K Bar – 20 Ved Stranden; 011-45-3391-9222; k-bar.dk; virtual performance art scene.
Karriere Bar – 57 Flasketorvert; 011-45-3321-5509; karrierebar.com; housed in former slaughterhouse; art gallery and café by day; on Saturday nights, DJ club.
Library Bar – 4 Bernstorffsgade; 011-45-3314-9262; librarybar.dk; Malcolm Forbes once rated as 1 of top 5 bars in world; antique books and artworks; can order everything from cappuccino to cocktail; lobby level of landmark Hotel Plaza, commissioned in 1913 by Frederik VIII.
Lidkoeb – 72B Vesterbrogade; 011-45-3311-2010; lidkoeb.dk; 3-story, cocktail culture venue.
MASH – 20 Bredgade; 011-45-3313-9300; mashsteak.dk.
Mesteren & Laerlingen – 86 Flaesketorvet (Meatpacking District); 011-45-3215-2483; fun for beer and live music.
Mikkeller – 8B-C Viktoriagade (Vesterbro); 011-45-3331-0415; mikkeller.dk; crazy, cult-like following for designer beers.
Oak Room – 10 Birkegade; 011-45-3860-3860; oakroom.dk.
1105 – 4 Kristen Bernikows Gade; 011-45-3393-1105; 1105.dk; considered to have city’s top bartender; dark and elegantly minimalist space.
Ruby – 10 Nybrogade; 011-45-3393-1203; rby.dk; impeccable location in 18th Century town house outfitted with chandaliers, fresh flowers, and rugs; basement lounge with plush Chesterfield couches and gilt-edged mirrors.
Rust – 8 Guldbergsgade; 011-45-3524-5200; rusk.dk.
Umami – 59 Store Kongensgade; 011-45-3338-7500; restaurantumami.dk; chic and sleek; orange banquettes and Japanese-style cocktails.
Union – 18 Storstrandstraede; 011-45-4119-6976; theunionbar.dk; unmarked door; American-style drinks; Cab Calloway rules sound space in this speak-easy atmosphere.
Ved Stranden 10 – 10 Ved Strand (on canal, across from Parliament); 011-45-3542-4040; vedstranden10.dk; wine bar.



HOTELS
Axel Guldsmeden Hotel – 11 Helgolandsgade; 011-45-3331-3266; guldsmedenhotels.com; highly regarded, organic boutique.
Bella Sky Comwell Hotel – 5 Center Boulevard (Orestaden); 011-45-3247-3000; bellaskycomwell.dk; caters to businessmen; 812 rooms in 2 towers (among Copenhagen's tallest buildings and Scandinavia's biggest hotels); cramped rooms but clean and modern.
Hotel D’Angleterre – 34 Kongens Nytorv; 011-45-3312-0095; dangleterre.com; dating back to 1755; 1 of Copenhagen’s most luxurious hotels; spa.
Central Hotel & Cafe – 1 Tullinsgade (Vesterbro); 011-45-3321-0095; centralhotelogcafe.dk; cozy; built in 1920 as shoemaker garret; perfect.
CPH Living – IC Langebrogade; 011-45-6160-8546; cphliving.com; stylishly converted, 2-level barge; water views; not for luxury buffs but is secluded, meditation retreat;
Copenhagen Admiral Hotel – 24-28 Toldbodgade; 011-45-3374-1414; admiral-hotel.dk; elegant waterside hotel.
Hotel Fox – 3 Jarmers Plads; 011-45-3313-3000; hotelfox.dk; 21 artists designed individual rooms.
Hotel Front – 21 Sankt Annae Plads; 011-45-3313-3400; front.dk; by Hotel D’Angleterre’s owners but much more lighthearted and trendy; books in lobby bar to browse; compact guest rooms; poor soundproofing; rooms 402 & 502 (“Medium Seaview”) overlook Opera House.
Hotel Guldsmeden Axel – 7-11 Helgolandsgade; 011-45-3331-3266; hotelguldmeden.dk; sleek white décor with Indonesian accents and organic nouveau hippie atmosphere; 129-rooms; convenient location within walking distance of Tivoli Gardens.
Hotel Nimb – 5 Bernstorffsgade; 011-45-8870-0000; dangleterre.com; luxury boutique hotel resembling Taj Mahal, located in Tivoli Gardens; beyond plush.
Hotel 71 Nyhavn – 71 Nyhavn; 011-45-3343-6200; 71nyhavnhotel.com; edgy luxury; exposed beam rooms (cozy, not grand); subterranean gourmet restaurant; setting is on 18th Century quayside, bustling with outdoor cafes; request corner room (21 or 22) in renovated wing and slumber swathed in down, floating, surrounded by stunning water views.



RESTAURANTS
Bæst – 29 Guldbergsgade; 011-45-3535-0463; baest.dk; pizza.
BioMio – 19 Halmtorvet; 011-45-3331-2000; biomio.dk; eco-chic hangout for young Danes gather; entirely organic restaurant in which every aspect, from wait staff’s Fairtrade organic cotton uniforms to ventilation system; 50% menu changes each season to keep meat and produce as local as possible; dishes, which BioMio brings in nutritionist to help develop, are vegetable-loaded, simple and tasty.
Café Kejzer – 20 Strandgade; 011-45-3296-0306; kejzer.dk; sunny café with creepy pencil drawings on walls; light lunches.
Café Manefiskeren – 43 Badmandsstraede; 011-45-3257-2708; large airy pub.
Christianshavns Badudlejning & Cafe – Overg Neden Vandet 29; 011-45-3296-5353; baadudlejningen.dk; boat rental and café; romantic setting.
DØP Pølsevogn – 52 Købmagergade (near Strøget); 011-45-3020-4025; døp.dk; organic hotdogs.
Europa 1989 – 1 Amagertorv; 011-45-3314-2889; europa1989.dk; great people-watching.
Geist – 8 Kongens Nytorv; 011-45-3313-3713; restaurantgeist.dk; best dish in city is here, turbot with cheese & fennel.
Restaurant Geranium – 13 Kronprinsessegade; 011-45-3311-1304; restaurantgeranium.dk; only biodynamic and organic fare; view of Rosenborg Castle.
Grill Bar – 5 Bernstorffsgade (at Hotel Nimb); 011-45-8870-0000; dangleterre.com; good for lunch.
Restaurant Herman – 5 Bernstorffsgade (at Hotel Nimb); 011-45-8870-0000; dangleterre.com; excellent seafood.
Ida Davidson – 70 Sotre Kongensgade; 45-3391-3655; idadavidsen.dk; lunch only and closed on weekends but worth effort; owned over 100 years by same family; smorgasbord as artwork.
Restaurant Jacobsen – 449 Strandvejen; 011-45-3963-4322; restaurantjacobsen.dk; chic restaurant next to Bellevue Beach; Arne Jacobsen designed everything from building itself to furniture, framed blueprints, and even cutlery.
Kodbyens Fiskebar – 100 Flaesketorvet; 011-45-3215-5656; fiskebaren.dk/en/; Danish seafood; try trout.
Kommandanten – 7 Ny Adelgade; 011-45-3312-0990; only restaurant in Denmark with 2 Michelin stars.
Kong Hans Kelder – 6 Vingardsstraede; 011-45-3311-6868; vaulted Gothic cellar, once owned by King Hans (1455-1513), in oldest building in Copenhagen; 1 of best restaurants; 5 centuries ago was vineyard, tradition still honored by street name; Hans Christian Andersen once lived upstairs, writing Love in Nicola Tower; classic traditions of French gastronomy; smokes his own salmon on-site for 36 hours in antique oven.
Manfred’s & Vin’s – 40 Jaegersborggade; 011-45-3696-6593; manfreds.dk; chef from Noma but much more casual atmosphere.
Mash – 20 Bredgade; 011-45-3313-9300; mashsteak.dk; steakhouse.
Noma – 93 Strandgade; 011-45-3296-3297; noma.dk; veteran of boldface kitchens like El Bulli and French Laundry, chef Rene Redzepi culls ingredients from every Nordic clime, even Denmark’s lesser-known territories; among world’s most beautifully designed restaurants dishes combine such exotic flavors as elderberries, musk ox, pigeon, porridge, seaweed, shrimp, and sorrel; dish called “Hen & Egg” incorporates hay.
Norrebro Bryghus – 3 Ryesgade; 011-45-3530-0530; norrebrobryghus.dk; big-time, big-city brewery restaurant that dwarfs almost every other restaurant in neighborhood.
Radio – 12 Julius Thomsens Gade; 011-45-2510-2733; restaurantradio.dk; again, Noma alums.
Ranee’s – 10 Blågårds Plads; 011-45-3536-8505; ranees.dk; Thai.
Relae – 41 Jaegersborggade; 011-45-3696-6609; restaurant-relae.dk; run by Noma veterans.
Sankt Annae – 12 Sankt Annae Plads; 011-45-3312-5497; restaurantsanktannae.dk; lunch only; quintessential, family-run Danish restaurant; try shrimp smorrebrod (open-face sandwich).
Schonnemann – 16 Hauser Plads; 011-45-3312-0785; restaurantschonnemann.dk; in 19th Century environment; specialized in traditional Danish food, such as smorrebroad, elaborately topped, open face sandwiches.
Soren K – 33 Kobmagergade; 011-45-3347-4949; sorenk.dk; artfully minimalist dining room on Black Diamond’s ground floor (ultramodern, intensely angular addition to Royal Library); glassy, big-windowed views stretch over nearby canal; chef never cooks with butter, cream, or high-cholesterol cheese, making meal here low-cholesterol as well as a savory experience; velvety foie gras, veal carpaccio, and truly superb oyster soup; veal chops served with lobster sauce and half-lobster or roasted venison with nuts and seasonal berries with green tomato marinade.
Restaurant Told & Snaps – 2 Toldbodgade; 011-45-3393-8385; toldogsnaps.dk; sandwiches on buttered dark bread (smorrebrod) and snaps (aquavit).
Les Trois Cochons – 10 Vaernedamsvej; 011-45-3331-7055; seasonal 3-course dinners of modern Danish-French cuisine.
Umami – 59 Store Kongensgade; 011-45-3338-7500; restaurantumami.dk; chic and sleek; Euro-Sino fusion.



SERVICES
Baisikeli Bike Rental – 10 Turesensgade; 011-45-2240-9505; cph-bike-rental.dk.
Christianshavns Badudlejning & Cafe – Overg Neden Vandet 29; 011-45-3296-5353; baadudlejningen.dk; boat rental and café.
CPH Private Guide – 011-45-3112-3023; cphprivateguide.dk; customized tours, especially re shopping.
Havnerundfart og Kanalrundfart – Homens Kanal; 011-45-3254-4102; havnerundfart.dk; canal boat tours; great way to see city.
Kurbadet by Ilse Jacobsen – Hornbæk; 011-45-7060-6020; ilsejacobsen.dk/se/kurbadet‎; spa.



SHOPPING
Bungalow – 17 Ravnsborggade; 011-45-3585-4065; bungalow.dk; hand-blocked fabrics inspired and created in India, melded with Scandinavian minimalism; bedding, blank-page journals, pillows, and scarves.
Danish Architecture Center – 27B Strandgade; 011-45-3257-1930; dac.dk; exhibitions and urban walks, with minimalist-styled bookstore.
Fisketorvet Shopping Center – 5 Havneholmen; 011-45-3336-6400; fisketorvet.dk; shopping center located on Kalvebod Brygge waterfront.
Frederiksberg Chokolade – 64 Frederiksberg Alle; 011-45-3322-3635; kbh360.dk.
HAY House – 61 Ostergade; 011-45-9942-4440; hay.dk; cutting edge Danish design (furniture) in Art Nouveau setting.
Keramiker Inge Vincents – 27 Jægersborggade; 011-45-4070-1750; vincents.dk; Danish-Japanese aesthetic.
Makers With Agendas – 29 Kompagnistræde; 011-45-2851-1021; mwa.eu; home design products.
Ro Chokolade – 25 Jægersborggade; 011-45-3696-6519; ro-chokolade.com; artisanal chocolates & ice creams.
Royal Copenhagen – 6 Amagertorv; 011-45-3313-7181; royalcopenhagen.com; porcelain.
Shamballa – 7 Ny Ostergade; 011-45-3336-5959; shamballajewels.com; jewelry boutique.
Stroget – Copenhagen’s pedestrian zone traversing inner city; high-end shopping.
Torvehallerne – 21 I Frederiksborggade; 011-45-7010-6070; torvehallernekbh.dk; upscale covered food market.
Wood Wood – 7 Krystalgade; 011-45-3393-6264; woodwood.dk; clothing for hipsters.



SIGHTS & SITES
Arken Museum for Moderne Kunst – 100 Skovvej (Ishøj); 011-45-4354-0222; arken.dk; private, not-for-profit charity, state authorized, contemporary art museum located in suburb-city, close to Køge Bay (20 kms south of Copenhagen); features modern works by Danish, Scandinavian and international painters; also has amassed collection of around 400 post-war contemporary art pieces.
Christiania – Copenhagen’s Berkeley (circa 1960s).
Church of Our Savior – 29vSankt Annae Gade; 011-45-3257-2798; vorfrelserskirke.dk; make sure to see hand-carved wood organ and corkscrew spire from which you can see 360° city view.
Cinematheque – 55 Gothersgade; 011-45-3374-3400 or 3412; dfi.dk/English.aspx; avant garde films and parties.
Copenhagen Concert Hall – 20 Emil Holms Kanal; 011-45-3520-3040; dr.dk/koncerthuset/forside.htm; spectacular on inside and out; try to get seat behind French horns.
Dyrehavsbakken (Deer Park Hill Amusement Park) – 62 Dyrehavevej (Klampenborg); 011-45-3963-3544; bakken.dk; bad Tivoli; unmanicured amusement park; local favorite, featuring dancing, love tunnel, merry-go-round, and roller coasters; ice-cream booths, open-air restaurants, and snack bars; 100 or so rides charge separate admission fee (proceeds support this unspoiled natural preserve); make sure to see cabaret and singing girls (at Bakkens Hvile; bicycles and horse-drawn carriages are only allowed transport.
Havnebad – Islands Brygge; Islands Brygge is home to trendy cafes, shops, and waterfront swimming area perfect for people watching.
Hirschsprung Collection – 20 Stockholmsgade; 011-45-3542-0336; hirschsprung.dk; tiny rooms packed with Danish land-and seascapes.
Jægersborggade – Nørrebro; cobblestoned mall-street hosting interesting shops.
Kodbyens – meatpacking district; popular with artists.
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek – 7 Dantes Plads; 011-45-3341-8141; glyptoteket.dk; art museum; collection built around Carlsberg Breweries founders’ personal collection; include classical Egyptian, Greek, and Roman antiquities, paintings, and Romanticist sculptures, as well as “Golden Age” Danish art; Etruscan collection 1 of most extensive outside Italy; works by impressionists such as Cezanne, Degas, Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, as well as Post-impressionists such as Bonnard, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Van Gogh; Rodin sculpture collection considered most important outside France; museum’s collection also includes all Degas’ bronze sculptures, including dancer series; building housing collections is often praised in own right for elegance, including sub-tropical winter garden at its center.
National Museum of Denmark – 10 Ny Vestergade (City Center); 011-45-3313-4411; natmus.dk; Denmark’s largest cultural history museum, covering Danish and foreign cultural history; located short distance from Strøget; sponsors SILA (Greenland Research Center at Denmark National Museum) to further anthropological and archaeological research in Greenland.
Ostre Anlaeg – 24 Stockholmsgade; 011-45-3315-7875; beautiful, green park.
Pussy Galore’s Flying Circus – 30 Sankt Hans Torv; 011-45-3524-5300; pussy-galore.dk; campy, kitschy show.
Rosenborg Castle – 4A Oster Voldgade; 011-45-3315-3286; museum@dkks.dk; also contains art collection.
Rundetaarn – 52 Kobmagergade; 011-45-3373-0373; rundetaarn.dk; massive tower built for King Christian IV; stunning city views.
Stroget – pedestrians-only street; stroll around Amagertorv Square.
Øresund Bridge – links Copenhagen to Malmo, Sweden; drive to appreciate views.
Tivoli Gardens – 3 Vesterbrogade; 011-45-3315-1001; tivoli.dk.
Vandkulturhuset, DGI-BYEN – 65 Tietgensgade; 45-3329-8000; dgi-byen.dk; large, ellipse-shaped pool (as well as “climbing and diving pool”) located just behind central station; offers activities such as aqua spinning or swimming until midnight; not only swimming pool, but also home to all different types of sports, including bowling alley.

1 comment:

  1. christania’s “cheap bike rentals” bikes are rolling across the city. The system, less than a year old, is funded by christania’s municipal government. It is currently only in one of christania’s 22 administrative districts. Although a 2nd generation system, there are 12 “Houses” in this district, each with around 40 bikes. The yearly subscription cost is the equivalent of $2 US, and allows the use of a bike for up to four hours at a time. In less than a year, there have been 6,000 subscriptions sold. There are larger 3rd generation systems in the world, which do not have a subscription to bike ratio as big as that.

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