Sunday, July 24, 2011

NEW ORLEANS

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
City Park
Morning Call Coffee Stand – Dreyfous Avenue; 504-885-4068; morningcallcoffeestand.com; only other place in town for beignet, and much cheaper.

French Quarter
Café du Monde – 800 Decatur Street; 504-581-2914; cafedumonde.com; coffee 24 hours a day.

Garden District
Sucre – 3025 Magazine Street; 504-520-8311; shopsucre.com; excellent macaroons.

Gentilly
Gambino’s Bakery – 5242 Elysian Fields Avenue; 504-288-4262; gambinos.com; open for over 60 years; noted for its Doberge and King cakes.

Jefferson
Haydel’s Bakery – 4037 Jefferson Highway; 504-837-0190; haydelbakery.com; open for over 60 years; baked goods and coffee for 3 generations; David Haydel is only internationally certified (as Craftsman & Master) baker in Louisiana.

Marigny
Cake Café & Bakery – 2440 Chartres Street; 504-943-0010; nolacakes.com; great cupcakes.
Sound Café – 2700 Chartres Street; 504-947-4477; coffees.

Mid-City
Angelo Broccato’s Ice Cream & Confectionary – 214 North Carrollton Avenue; 504-486-1465; angelobroccatoicecream.com; bakery and gelateria.

7th Ward
Buttermilk Drop Bakery & Cafe – 1781 North Dorgenois Street (Treme); 504-252-4538; buttermilkdrop.com; run by baker-chef Dwight Henry, who has been perfecting his classic New Orleans recipes for decades; try buttermilk drops; open for hot breakfasts and lunches.

Uptown
Velvet – 5637 Magazine Street; 504-450-2129; throwacupcake.com; fine coffee shop.

Willow Brook
Dong Phuong Oriental Bakery – 14207 Chef Menteur Highway; 504-254-0214; both Chinese and Vietnamese; specially good for sandwiches.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Arts & Warehouse District
Belloq – 936 St. Charles Avenue (at Hotel Modern); 504-962-0900; thehotelmodern.com; in-house burlesque shows.
Wine Institute of New Orleans (W.I.N.O.) – 610 Tchoupitoulas Street; 504-324-8000; winoschool.com; over 150 different wines.

Bywater
Bacchanal – 600 Poland Avenue; 504-948-9111; bacchanalwine.com; weather permitting, sit in courtyard under mulberry and oleander trees.
Lost Love Lounge – 2529 Dauphine Street; 504-949-2009; lostlovelounge.com; relaxed night-life in this dim and sprawling dive; small Vietnamese snack menu.
Saturn Bar – 3067 Saint Claude Avenue (lower 9th Ward); 504-949-7532; myspace.com/saturnbar; infamous dive; insider bar, about 10-15 minutes drive from quarter; often has live music.

Carrollton
Maple Leaf Bar – 8316 Oak Street; 504-866-9359; mapleleafbar.com; live music venue since 1974; on Sundays, Joe Krown Trio perform.
Oak – 8118 Oak Street; 504-302-1485; oaknola.com; glossy, upscale wine bar.
Snake & Jakes Christmas Club Lounge – 7612 Oak Street; 504-861-2802; snakeandjakes.com; legendary dive bar.

CBD
Loa – 221 Camp Street (at International House Hotel); 504-553-9550; ihhotel.com; starkly elegant with W-feel (but better); delightful bar.
Sazerac Bar – 123 Baronne Street (at Roosevelt New Orleans, block from French Quarter’s west end); 504-648-1200; therooseveltneworleans.com; strikingly preserved in its early 20th Century glory; bar is “must see” experience – but not must stay; crowd very “ugh.”

Darrow
Turtle Bar – 5200 Coffee Drive (at Houmas House Plantation); 504-628-6000; houmashouse.com; separate from main house; built in 1828 as pigeonnaire, then used as garcionniere; named for light fixture with brass turtle centerpiece; building’s 19th Century elegance (brick walls and burnished copper-top bar) enhanced by taxidermy and turtle-themed decor; try mint julep.

French Quarter
Bar Tonique – 820 North Rampart Street (across from Armstrong Park); 504-324-6045; bartonique.com; bespoke drinks in unpainted brick and hardwood environment, with 2 small gas fires.
Cane & Table – 1113 Decatur Street; 504-581-1112; caneandtablenola.com; grown-up drinking establishment where cocktails taken seriously; try fresh pineapple Boss Colada.
Carousel Bar – 214 Royal Street (at Hotel Monteleone); 504-523-3341; hotelmonteleone.com; renovated; actual carousel; order Vieux Carre.
French 75 Bar – 813 Bienville Street (at Arnaud’s Restaurant); 504-523-5433; arnaudsrestaurant.com/french-75; smoke-y.
Hermes Bar at Antoine’s – 725 St. Louis Street; 504-581-4422; antoines.com; try French 75, Pimm’s Cup, and/or Sazerac.
Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop – 941 Bourbon Street; 504-593-9761; lafittesblacksmithshop.com; among city’s most legendary bars; in weathered, early 1700s Creole abode.
Napoleon House – 500 Chartres Street; 504-524-9752; napoleonhouse.com; folklore has it that around time of Napoleon’s death, plot hatched to bring him to live in New Orleans on this building’s 3rd floor but building dates from couple of years after Napoleon’s death; good hangout, particularly late at night.
Oz – 800 Bourbon Street; 504-593-9491; ozneworleans.com; gay dance club.
Patrick’s Bar Vin – 730 Bienville Street; 504-200-3180; patricksbarvin.com; quiet wine bar.
Tujague’s – 823 Decatur Street; 504-525-8676; tujaguesrestaurant.com; corruption of “2 Jakes”; feels 100s years old; order Sazerac (rye whiskey, Peychaud’s bitters, sugar, and absinthe dash).

Lakeview
Mondo – 900 Harrison Avenue; 504-224-2633; mondoneworleans.com; great neighborhood food.

Marigny
d.b.a. – 618 Frenchmen Street; 504-942-3731; dbabars.com/dbano; John Boutte on Saturday nights.
Spotted Cat – 623 Frenchmen Street; 504-258-3135; spottedcatmusicclub.com; frequently has live swing music; 1 drink minimum.
Three Muses – 536 Frenchmen Street; 504-298-8746; thethreemuses.com; live music.
Yuki Izakaya – 525 Frenchmen Street; 504-943-1122; Japanese tavern with live music includes Norbert Slama, “virtuosic blind French accordianist.”

Mid-City
Rue 127 – 127 North Carrollton Avenue (on Canal Street street-car line); 504-483-1571; rue127.com; try El Carretico (Sidecar with Grand Marnier).
Twelve Mile Limit – 500 South Telemachus Street; 504-488-8114; facebook.com/twelve.mile.limit; proper dive that makes great cocktails and barbecue-inspired cuisine; for dessert, try doberge.

9th Ward
Vaughan’s Lounge – 800 Lesseps Street; 504-947-5562; on Thursday nights, Kermit Ruffins (trumpeter in Louis Armstrong mold) holds forth with band, Barbecue Swingers; free red beans.

St. Roch
Hi Ho Lounge – 2239 St. Claude Avenue; 504-945-4446; hiholounge.net; you’re as likely to compare tattoos with guy sitting next to you as witness local 2nd-line after-party; costume parties & punk concerts take place frequently; atmosphere is redolent of barnyard decorated by farm full of Jimi Hendrix roadies.

Treme
Basin Street Lounge – 1600 Basin Street; 504-301-2361; basinstreetlounge.wordpress.com; spare bar where people like Winton Marsalis and Big Chief Darryl Montana (of Yellow Pocahontas tribe in Mardi Gras parade) can be found.

Uptown
Bouligny – 3641 Magazine Street; 504-891-1810; boulignytavern.com; try Sage Julep; also, good bar food.
Cure – 4905 Freret Street; 504-302-2357; curenola.com; more sophisticated uptown watering hole than most; sleek minimal design and carefully crafted drink menu.



HOTELS
Arts & Warehouse District
Hotel Modern – 936 St. Charles Avenue; 504-962-0900 or 800-684-9525; thehotelmodern.com; 135 rooms; top floor suite is worth booking.

CBD
International House Hotel – 221 Camp Street; 504-553-9550 or 800-633-5770; ihhotel.com; boutique-y in stripped down sense; stark but elegant; delightful bar but average restaurant.
Ritz-Carlton – 921 Canal Street; 504-524-1331 or 800-542-8680; ritzcarlton.com; beaux art landmark.
Roosevelt New Orleans – 123 Baronne Street (block from French Quarter’s west end); 504-648-1200 or 800-925-3673; therooseveltneworleans.com; recent, mammoth facelift; 504 rooms; opulent but lots of small details overlooked, given price; excellent room service; rooftop pool.
Saint Hotel – 931 Canal Street; 504-522-5400; thesainthotelneworleans.com; 100 year-old building on Quarter’s edge.
Windsor Court Hotel – 300 Gravier Street; 504-523-6000; windsorcourthotel.com; intimate, posh; European-style, in high-rise.

French Quarter
Hotel Monteleone – 214 Royal Street; 504-523-3341 or 866-338-4684; hotelmonteleone.com; renovated; Carousel Bar.
Melrose Mansion – 937 Esplanade Avenue; 504-944-2255; melrosemansion.com; renovated mansion within easy walking distance, virtually to entire quarter.
714 Gov. Nicholls Street – 714 Governor Nicholls Street; 415-788-7500, ext. 200 (Kalman Muller); 714nicholls.com; 60-day minimum; 7½ bedroom home 1 block off Bourbon Street; 2 double parlors, Yamaha grand piano, velvet sofas, and formal dining room; film posters and original art; wireless internet, satellite TV, and home entertainment system; exposed brick interiors; 3 full kitchens, 1 with Le Cornue stove, as well as espresso and ice machines; Creole-style patio; 2nd floor suite has balcony overlooking French Quarter; Garret Suite is romantic, Parisian-style loft located in building’s eaves; full kitchen, private bathroom, and city views; 4 bedrooms also available, each with private bathroom (3 queen-size beds, and 4th has 2 single beds); walking distance to renowned restaurants, clubs, and boutiques, as well across street from 24-hour market and bottle shop.
Soniat House – 1133 Chartres Street; 504-522-0570 or 800-544-8808; soniathouse.com; historic structure with lush garden courtyard.

Garden District
Terrell House – 1441 Magazine Street; 504-237-2076 or 866-261-9687; terrellhouse.com; charming; 12 rooms.

Marigny
Royal Street Inn – 1431 Royal Street; 504-948-7499; royalstreetinn.com; 5 affordable suites.



RESTAURANTS
Arts & Warehouse District
Butcher – 930 Tchoupitoulas Street; 504-588-7675; cochonbutcher.com; specializes in house-cured meats and sausages.
Cafe Adelaide – 300 Poydras Street (at Loews Hotel New Orleans); 504-595-3305; cafeadelaide.com; Creole.
Cochon – 930 Tchoupitoulas Street; 504-588-2123; cochonrestaurant.com; oyster-meat pies, rabbit and dumplings, and fried boudin balls.
Emeril’s – 800 Tchoupitoulas Street (at Julia Street); 504-528-9393; emerils.com; surprisingly good, given hype; barbecued shrimp; banana cream pie is excellent.
Herbsaint – 701 St. Charles Avenue; 504-524-4114; herbsaint.com; upscale, casual, featuring acclaimed menu.
A Mano – 870 Tchoupitoulas Street; 504-208-9280; amanonola.com; Italian; try gnocchi with oxtail ragu.
Mother’s – 401 Poydras Street; 504-523-9656; mothersrestaurant.net; order oyster po’boy and “side of debris.”
Riomar – 800 South Peters Street; 504-525-3474; riomarseafood.com; acclaimed seafood.
Tamarind – 936 St. Charles Avenue; 504-962-0900; thehotelmodern.com; French-Vietnamese.
Tommy’s Cuisine – 746 Tchoupitoulas Street; 504-581-1103; tommyscuisine.com; Irene’s Cuisine spin-off; try crabmeat au gratin or shrimp remoulade; chef used to be at Galatoire’s.

Bayou St. John
Café Degas – 3127 Esplanade Avenue; 504-945-5635; cafedegas.com; French bistro in outdoor porch atmosphere (lined with heavy plastic sheets to keep in cool air and keep out heat and rain); among prettiest, most atmospheric restaurants in New Orleans (for casual meals); food is excellent.

Bywater
Bacchanal Wine – 600 Poland Avenue; 504-948-9111; bacchanalwine.com; wine & cheese store that serves small plates.
Elizabeth’s – 601 Gallier Street; 504-944-9272; elizabeths-restaurant.com; where locals go for breakfast and brunch; always crowded but can wait at bar upstairs.
Satsuma Cafe – 3218 Dauphine Street; 504-304-5962; satsumacafe.com; good for breakfast – try pancakes (of day) and coffee.

Carrollton
Boucherie – 8115 Jeannette Street; 504-862-5514; boucherie-nola.com; spin-off of truck that fuels city’s late-night music scene; smartened-up versions of down-home Louisiana cooking; try blackened shrimp with grit cakes and krispy kreme bread pudding.
Brigsten’s – 723 Dante Street; 504-861-7610; brigstens.com; in homey, Victorian cottage; classic south Louisiana cuisine; celebrated roast duck.
Camellia Grill – 626 South Carrollton Avenue; 504-309-2679; classic diner; comfort food (cheeseburgers chased with “chocolate freeze” and pecan pie, heated on grill; notable for breakfasts.
Dante’s Kitchen – 736 Dante Street; 504-861-3121; danteskitchen.com; casual, small plates; great spoon bread.

CBD
American Sector – 945 Magazine Street (at US National WWII Museum); 504-528-1944; nationalww2museum.org; surprisingly good restaurant.
August – 301 Tchoupitoulas Street; 504-299-9777; restaurantaugust.com; local indigenous cooking with lots of foam and other nouvelle gimmicks; dainty and fussy; many flavors and ingredients; try Moroccan-spiced duck, enjoyable, but not Moroccan.
Borgne – 601 Loyola Avenue; 504-613-3860; borgnerestaurant.com; among New Orleans’ best restaurants; sustainable seafood; don’t be put off by location.
Domenica – 123 Baronne Street (at Roosevelt Hotel); 504-648-6020; domenicarestaurant.com; fine regional Italian; crisp, thin pizzas, fresh pastas, and salumi (“created in-house”); high-ceilinged room; try roasted cauliflower with whipped goat cheese.
Drago’s Seafood Restaurant – 2 Poydras Street; 504-584-3911; dragosrestaurant.com; notable for char-grilled oysters; several locations.
Emeril’s Delmonico – 1300 St. Charles Avenue (at Erato Street); 504-525-4937; emerils.com; expensive; try rabbit crepes.
Luke – 333 St. Charles Avenue; 504-378-2840; lukeneworleans.com; Franco-German brasserie; excellent French Fries.
Mila – 817 Common Street; 504-412-2580; milaneworleans.com; try oysters Rockefeller or barbecued shrimp.
Peche – 800 Magazine Street; 504-522-1744; pecherestaurant.com; seafood from tail to tip (oysters!); many cooked items prepared over open wood fire visible from dining room; elegant bar supplied with intriguing beer & wines; dining room is laid-back, long & typically very loud.

Covington
Ristorante Del Porto – 501 East Boston Street; 985-875-1006; delportoristorante.com; among best Italian restaurants in area.

East Riverside
Lilette – 3637 Magazine Street; 504-895-1636; liletterestaurant.com; tiny, French-inspired restaurant; great desserts, in particular.

French Quarter
Antoine’s – 713 St. Louis Street; 504-581-4422; antoines.com; haute cuisine.
Brennan’s – 417 Royal Street; 504-525-9713; brennansneworleans.com; try bananas foster for dessert.
Camellia Grill – 540 Chartres Street; 504-522-1800; classic diner (original in Carrollton); comfort food (cheeseburgers chased with “chocolate freeze” and pecan pie, heated on grill; notable for breakfasts.
Court of Two Sisters – 613 Royal Street; 504-522-7261; courtoftwosisters.com; spicy creole food; jazz brunch buffet daily.
Felix’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar – 739 Iberville Street; 504-522-4440; felixs.com; open for over 70 years.
Galatoire’s – 209 Bourbon Street; 504-525-2021; galatoires.com; ask off menu for fried eggplant; on menu, Crabmeat Maison.
Hermes Bar at Antoine’s – 725 St. Louis Street; 504-581-4422; antoines.com; haute cuisine; more casual than main restaurant; try soufflé potatoes with béarnaise sauce.
Irene’s Cuisine – 539 St. Philip Street; 504-529-8811; white tablecloth, Creole Italian; try broiled oysters with pancetta or roast chicken; long waits unless have reservation.
Killer Poboys – 811 Conti Street; 504-252-6745; killerpoboys.com; internationally-inspired po’boys.
Marti’s – 1041 Dumaine Street; 504-522-5478; martisnola.com; try Mississippi Rabbit Two Ways.
Muriel’s Jackson Square – 801 Chartres Street; 504-568-1885; muriels.com; book séance lounge; .
Napoleon House – 500 Chartres Street; 504-524-9752; napoleonhouse.com; good hangout, particularly late at night; large portions of adequate New Orleans food (po’boys, jambalaya), plus wild-card items like salads with goat cheese and even pita and hummus, plus, most significantly, only heated muffaletta in town.
Royal House Oyster Bar – 441 Royal Street; 504-528-2601; royalhouserestaurant.com; seafood restaurant & oyster bar.
Royal Street Deli – 801 Royal Street; 504-529-3777; facebook.com/pages/Sean-Kellys-Royal-Street-Deli/108132689228439; small, healthy lunches with delicate touches and some mixed drinks.
Stella! – 1032 Chartres Street; 504-587-0091; restaurantstella.com; Asian-inspired Creole; fussy but, perhaps, best New Orleans restaurant.
Sylvain – 625 Chartres Street; 504-265-8123; sylvainnola.com; popular with locals; try porchetta po-boy.

Garden District
Café Rani – 2917 Magazine Street; 504-895-2500; caferanimagazine.com; casual setting with simple, elegant food; outdoor seating, weather permitting.
Casamento’s – 4330 Magazine Street; 504-895-9761; casamentosrestaurant.com; authentic Sicilian food but known for its New Orleans oysters mastery.
Commander’s Palace – 1403 Washington Avenue; 504-899-8221; commanderspalace.com.
Coquette – 2800 Magazine Street; 504-265-0421; coquette-nola.com; upscale bistro.
Eleven 79 – 1179 Annunciation Street; 504-299-1179; eleven79.com; dimly lit dining room; owner, Joe Segreto, used to manage Louis Prima; New Orleans and Sicilian food (“Creole Italian”).
Parasol’s Restaurant & Bar – 2533 Constance Street; 504-899-2054; parasols.com; old Irish Channel bar famous for po’boys; roast beef po’boy is famous, as is fried oyster.
Pascal’s Manale – 1838 Napoleon Avenue; 504-895-4877; neworleansrestaurants.com/pascalsmanale; famous for creating barbecued shrimp (which involves neither barbecue pit nor sauce, but is strangely addictive); turtle soup and fried eggplant are good starters; upper-crust scene always amuses; atmospheric old bar might be city’s best place to slurp raw oysters.

Gretna
Pho Tau Bay – 113 Westbank Expressway; 504-368-9846; only remaining vestige of institution that sprang from Saigon restaurant chain and boasted mini-empire of New Orleans outposts before levee breaches; is to pho in New Orleans as barbecue shrimp is to Mr. B’s (restaurant built its reputation in part on dish’s quality, with which will forever be identified); also try beef stew and banh mi.
Tan Dinh – 1705 Lafayette Street; 504-361-8008; among best Vietnamese food in area; 20-minute drive from downtown New Orleans; try goat stew with bean curd, roasted quail with sticky-rice cakes, steamed flour cakes topped with dried shrimp, jellyfish salad, spring rolls, noodle soups, and sandwiches.

Marigny
Three Muses – 536 Frenchmen Street; 504-298-8746; thethreemuses.com; live music.

Mid-City
Liuzza’s – 3636 Bienville Avenue; 504-482-9120; liuzzas.com; mid-city location famous for po’boys and “Frenchulettas.”
Mandina’s – 3800 Canal Street; 504-482-9179; mandinasrestaurant.com; in business in various forms for over century; fried chicken and soul-food, as well as black Creole fare; try trout amandine with French fries.
Parkway Bakery & Tavern – 538 Hagan Avenue (at Toulouse Street); 504-482-3047; parkwaybakeryandtavernnola.com; best Po-Boy (probably) in all New Orleans; get it to go and hang out on bayou or take to City Park; try roast beef, shrimp, or oyster; get it “dressed”; also try sweet potato fries.
Rue 127 – 127 North Carrollton Avenue (on Canal Street street-car line); 504-483-1571; rue127.com; great ribeye.

7th Ward
Dooky Chase – 2301 Orleans Avenue; 504-821-0600; dining room decorated in African-American art; once favored by African American musicians and civil rights leaders; try gumbo z’herbes and fried chicken.
Willie Mae’s Scotch House – 2401 St. Ann Street; 504-822-9503; great fried chicken.

Uptown
Atchalafaya – 901 Louisiana Avenue; 504-891-9626; cafeatchafalaya.com; small, with excellent Creole food.
Company Burger – 4600 Freret Street; 504-267-0320; thecompanyburger.com; burger buffs boast chef-owner Adam Biderman achieves ideal at this quick stop on remade Freret Street; locally raised beef; young crowd.
Delachaise – 3442 St. Charles Avenue; 504-895-0858; thedelachaise.com; wine bar.
Domilise’s Po-Boys & Bar – 5240 Annunciation Street (near River, at Bellecastle Street); 504-899-9126; nondescript exterior; try sausage po’boy.
Gautreau’s – 1728 Soniat Street; 504-899-7397; gautreausrestaurant.com; renovated pharmacy near Tulane.
Patois – 6078 Laurel Street; 504-895-9441; patoisnola.com; reservations; reimagined bistro cooking.
La Petite Grocery – 4238 Magazine Street; 504-891-3377; lapetitegrocery.com; handsomely recast corner grocery store; seafood and game; also, great onion soup.
Superior Seafood & Oyster Bar – 4338 St. Charles Avenue; 504-293-3474; superiorseafoodnola.com; at several parade routes’ start; French seafood.

Willow Brook
Dong Phuong Oriental Bakery – 14207 Chef Menteur Highway (Willow Brook); 504-254-0214; both Chinese and Vietnamese; especially good for sandwiches.



SERVICES
General
Cajun Pride Swamp Tours – 110 Frenier Road (LaPlace); 985-651-4477; cajunprideswamptours.com; take Manchac Swamp Tour and ask for Tom Billiot as guide.

Garden District
A-Musing Bicycle Rentals – 1381 Magazine Street; 504-208-9779; amusingbicyclerentals.com.
9th Ward Rebirth Bike Tours – 1813 Elysian Fields; 504-909-9959; ninthwardrebirthbiketours.com; $55 per person for 4-hour tour, 5-6 mornings weekly.



SHOPPING
Bywater
Bacchanal Wine – 600 Poland Avenue; 504-948-9111; bacchanalwine.com; wine & cheese store that serves small plates.
Bargain Center – 3200 Dauphine Street; 504-948-0007; antique furniture, used books, and vintage costumes.

French Quarter
Central Grocery – 923 Decatur Street (at downriver end, area once called Little Palermo); 504-523-1620; centralgroceryneworleans.com; Italian grocery (old style); famous for its muffalettas.
Crescent City Books – 204 Chartres Street (French Quarter); 504-524-4997; crescentcitybooks.com; rare and used books; also, pleasing print collection.
Gallery for Fine Photography – 241 Chartres Street; 504-568-1313; agallery.com; amazing inventory of extraordinary works by well-known and starting artists.
Harris Antiques – 233 Royal Street; 504-523-1605; harrisantiques.com; particularly fine collection of antique tea boxes.
Lucullus – 610 Chartres Street; 504-528-9620; lucullusantiques.com; antiques.
New Orleans Silversmiths – 600 Chartres Street; 504-522-8333 or 800-219-8333; neworleanssilversmiths.com.
UAL – 518 Chartres Street; 504-301-4437; stands for “United Apparel Liquidators,” and it’s all high-end, designer bargains; gets discontinued or leftover items from designers and sells at ridiculous markdowns; often have hourly sales (20% off all accessories, for example).

Garden District
As You Like It Silver – 3033 Magazine Street; 504-897-6915; asyoulikeitsilvershop.com; impressively copious and curated.
Vernon Clothing – 2049 Magazine Street; 504-309-5929; vernonclothing.com; both in-house designs and big names, like John Varvatos.

Irish Channel
Blue Mystic Signs – 2212 Magazine Street; 504-525-4691; mysticbluesigns.com; local artwork.

Marigny
Cake Café & Bakery – 2440 Chartres Street; 504-943-0010; nolacakes.com; great cupcakes.
Chemisiere Louisiane – 3811 Chartres Street; 504-948-9989; chemisierelouisiane.com; clothing boutique.
Praline Connection – 542 Frenchmen Street; 504-943-3934; pralineconnection.com; candies.
Uptown
St. James Cheese Co. – 5004 Prytania Street; 504-899-4737; stjamescheese.com; cheese, etc.



SIGHTS & SITES
Burnside
Houmas House Plantation – 5200 Coffee Drive; 504-628-6000; houmashouse.com; beautiful gardens; restaurants for lunch and supper.

CBD
Ogden Museum of Southern Art – 925 Camp Street; 504-539-9600; ogdenmuseum.org; world’s largest and most comprehensive Southern art collection; embodies American South’s visual heritage and history from 1733 to present; among many artists represented in museum’s collection are John Alexander, Walter Anderson, Benny Andrews, Clementine Hunter, William Dunlap, Ida Kohlmeyer, Will Henry Stevens, Kendall Shaw, Hunt Slonem, and George Ohr; museum also includes Center for Southern Craft and Design.
US National WWII Museum – 945 Magazine Street; 504-528-1944; nationalww2museum.org.

City Park
New Orleans Museum of Art & Sculpture Garden – 1 Collins Diboll Circle; 504-658-4100; noma.org.

East
St. Louis Cemetery #1 – 1300 St. Louis Street (at Basin Street); 504-596-3050 or 504-482-5065; arch-no.org or cml.upenn.edu/nola/SrchMappgs/L0Intrositemap_base.html; famous internees include Etienne de Boré (wealthy sugar industry pioneer and New Orleans’ 1st Mayor), Homer Plessy (plaintiff in Plessy v. Ferguson), Ernest N. “Dutch” Morial (New Orleans 1st African-American mayor), Marie Laveau (voodoo priestess believed to be interred in Glapion family crypt), Bernard de Marigny (French-Creole playboy who brought craps to US), Barthelemy Lafon (architect and surveyor who became 1 of Jean Lafitte’s pirates), Paul Morphy (among earliest world chess champions), and Marie Delphine LaLaurie (infamous slave owner); see also Nicolas Cage’s potential tomb (odd pyramid).
St. Louis Cemetery #2 – 720 St. Louis Street (3 blocks from #1, bordering Claiborne Avenue); 504-482-5065; arch-no.org; famous internees include Dominique You (Jean and Pierre Lafitte’s half-brother).
St. Louis Cemetery #3 – 3421 Esplanade Avenue (next to Fair Grounds Racetrack); 504-482-5065; arch-no.org; famous internees include Paul Sarebresole (ragtime composer) and E. J. Bellocq (photographer).

French Quarter
Preservation Hall – 726 St. Peter Street; 504-522-2841; preservationhall.com.

Lower 9th Ward
Steamboat Houses – 400 and 453 Egania Street; casasugar.com/Coveted-Crib-Doullut-Steamboat-Houses-Part-1-1025222; between 1905-1913, steamboat captain Milton P. Doullut built 400 Egania (originally closer to river, but when levee moved back, so was house) and 453 Egania for his son; 2 distinct architectural influences, steamboats (deep “decks” that encircle houses, narrow inner hallways, and large, open pilothouses) and Japanese exhibit building at World’s Fair in 1904 in St. Louis (concave roofs at 2nd levels and above pilothouses and also for glazed tile covering Ionic columns.
Fats Dominio Mansion – 1208 Caffin Avenue; fatsonline.nl.
House of Dance & Feathers – 1317 Tupelo Street; 504-957-2678; you must call ahead because this is private residence; Ronald Lewis’ personal museum, dedicated to “Mardi Gras Indian.”
Make It Right Foundation – 1055 St. Charles Avenue (this address in Arts & Warehouse District); 504-620-3200; makeitrightnola.org; Brad Pitt’s foundation to help rebuild post-Katrina Lower 9th Ward; map at website shows where completed houses are in Lower 9th Ward.

Treme
Backstreet Cultural Museum – 1116 Henriette Delille Street; 504-522-4806; backstreetmuseum.org; African-American New Orleans history museum; special emphasis on mardi gras costumes.
St. Augustine Catholic Church – 1210 Gov. Nicholls Street; 504-525-5934; staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org; built in 1842.

Uptown
Audubon Zoo – 6500 Magazine Street; 504-212-5301 or 800-774-7394; auduboninstitute.org.

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