Wednesday, March 21, 2012


(includes Daventry & Fawsley)


Museum of Jewelry Quarter Tearoom – 75-79 Vyse Street; 011-44-012-1554-3598;; try Victoria sponge cake (cream, raspberry jam, and sponge cake); charming courtyard, weather permitting.
Urban Coffee – Big Peg, Warstone Lane; 011-44-012-1233-1599;; London-style, independent coffee house.

Bull's Head Pub – 23 St. Mary's Row; 011-44-012-1256-7777;; live music on weekends.
Fighting Cocks – 1 St. Mary's Row; 011-44-012-1449-0811;; stained-glass windows and dark woods; very busy; quintessential British pub; try locally brewed Pure UBU ale; top notch bar food, too.
Hotel du Vin – 25 Church Street; 011-44-012-1200-0600;; flamboyant Venetian champagne bar or cellar bar, which offers mother of all wine lists, as well as well-stocked humidor.
Malt House – 75 King Edwards Road; 011-44-012-1633-4171;; Clinton had pint here during G8 summit.

Bloc Hotel – St. Paul’s (at Caroline Street); 011-44-012-1212-1223;; 73 tiny but pretty much perfect rooms in Jewelry Quarter’s heart; affordable.
Hotel du Vin – 25 Church Street; 011-44-012-1200-0600;; old-world French chic; sleek city center hotel; sweeping carved staircase leads to modern, spacious room with giant walk-in shower; health spa; to splurge, book Grange suite with 9' bed, twin bath tubs.
Fawsley Hall – Fawsley (Northamptonshire); 011-44-013-2789-2000;; there’s history, and then there’s history; among its famous guests, its Queen’s Suite is dedicated to Elizabeth I, who last checked out in 1575; old house has Georgian, Tudor, and Victorian (all contemporary when built); also contains nearly 36 contemporary-styled rooms (in main house, converted stable block, and spa building); in older rooms, nothing that could not have been installed in 19th Century or earlier; meanwhile contemporary rooms mix sedate, slightly minimalist style with modern facilities and occasional period details; large for English country house hotel, but that’s not disadvantage; 2 restaurants to choose from (fine-dining and more casual brasserie), as well as extensive grounds, 1st-class spa, and even small screening room.
Malmaison – 1 Wharfside Street; 011-44-012-1246-5000;; oh-so-chic hotel chain that stretches from London to Edinburgh: “fab” hotel occupies part of “Mailbox,” converted 1960s Royal Mail Sorting Office with panoramic canal-side setting; bedrooms have latest designs and are sleekly modern and invitingly comfortable (great beds, slinky lights, bathrooms with tub and power showers, and luxe toiletries along with CD players and libraries); Le Petit Spa called Birmingham’s “sexiest”; alternatively, work out in Gymtonic.
Simpson’s – 20 Highfield Road; 011-44-012-1454-3434;; Michelin starred restaurant; far from city center, in gorgeous Victorian house; worth journey; 4 luxurious rooms.
Staying Cool at Rotunda – 150 New Street; 011-44-012-1285-1290;; 4 star apartments on city’s newly refurbished, iconic Rotunda’s top 3 floors; amazing views, bespoke and designer style, maximum comfort in city’s heart (just 2 minutes from Selfridges and New Street Station); each apartment radiates from spherical, 60s Tower’s center, creating circle of different sized wedges; each is individual with original artwork and specially commissioned furniture; floor-to-ceiling glass wall gives great views; apartments come in 4 sizes (studios, 1 bed, 2 beds, and penthouse; all have free wifi, apple computers, I-pod docks, and baby Gaggia espresso makers; beds are king, mattresses are pocket sprung with memory foam; accredited green tourism business.

Edmunds – 6 Brindley Place; 011-44-012-1633-4944;; latest venture for Michelin-starred chef Andy Waters; sleek place where traders surrounding banking houses' traders spend bonuses; locally sourced farm-fresh produce, fish, and meats; just back from river.
Fighting Cocks – 1 St. Mary’s Row; 011-44-012-1449-0811;; stained-glass windows and dark woods; try Wensleydale pastry tart with fig, goat cheese, pecan, and roasted squash.
Hotel du Vin – 25 Church Street; 011-44-012-1200-0600;; excellent wines, glorious food; old-world French chic.
Jamie’s Italian – Middle Mall (Bullring); 011-44-012-1270-3610;; try osso buco.
Lasan – 3-4 Dakota Building; 011-44-012-1212-3664;; elegant and upscale Indian; among Britain’s best local restaurants; masterful North and South Indian dishes.
Love’s – Glass House, 3 Canal Square; 011-44-012-1454-5151;
Opus – 54 Cornwall Street; 011-44-121-200-2323;; fronted by window shaped like name’s letters; sleek modernist place with starched linen, silver cutlery, and upmarket ingredients from famous-name farms.
Purnell’s – 55 Cornwall Street; 011-44-012-1212-9799;; Michelin starred; exquisite, inventive dishes (such as ox cheek with lentils cooked in toffee); in airy, Victorian red-brick building with striking modern interior; run by celebrated chef Glynn Purnell.
Simpson’s – 20 Highfield Road; 011-44-012-1454-3434;; Michelin starred; far from city center, in gorgeous Victorian house; worth journey for imaginative creations by chef Andreas Antona; reservations recommended.
Turner’s – 69 High Street (Harborne); 011-44-012-1426-4440;; Michelin starred; seriously good food; hazelnuts, langoustine, monkfish, pheasant, quail, and white asparagus all bathed in tempting range of broth, jus, and velouté.

Rag Market – Edgbaston Street; 011-44-012-1464-8349;; open on Fridays and Saturdays; retail stalls that sell jewelry and vintage clothing.
Selfridges – Upper Mall East (Bullring); 011-44-011-3369-8040;; department store and recent, modern architectural wonder.

Aston Villa Soccer Team – Villa Park, Trinity Road; 011-44-012-1327-2299;
Birmingham City Soccer Team – St. Andrew’s Stadium; 011-44-084-4557-1875;
Cube – 196 Wharfside Street (located within Commercial Street, “Mailbox,” Washington Wharf apartment complex, and Worcester & Birmingham Canal); 011-44-012-1654-9400;; LEGO-like, 23 story, mixed-use development in city center; designed by Ken Shuttleworth (MAKE Architects); flats, hotel, offices, shops, and “skyline” restaurant; can walk from here throughout canal district (e.g., follow canal northwest through new Birmingham’s heart, turning right at big canal intersection, past innumerable old locks and tollhouses.
Jewelry Quarter – edged, in part, by Warstone Lane;; Heritage Trail runs through it, taking you past where Scottish engineer and inventor James Watt lived and where Washington Irving wrote Rip Van Winkle.
Museum of Jewelry Quarter – 75-79 Vyse Street; 011-44-012-1554-3598;; when factory closed in 1981, staff literally walked out leaving everything in place, from gold dust to floorboards.
St. Paul’s Square – on Sunday mornings, this gorgeous parklike quadrangle, with 18th Century stone church, is urban England at its best.

Sunday, March 18, 2012


Farm Club – Route de Verbier; 011-41-027-771-6121;; après-ski; open from 11 pm-4 am; $45 entrance fee for nonmembers.
Fer a Cheval – Rue de Medran; 011-41-027-771-2669;; looks like cowboy diver bar but is popular hangout for pizza and beer.
Le Sonalon – Route de la Marlenaz; 011-41-027-771-7271;; drink local wines all day with mountain views.

Le Chalet d’Adrien – Chemin Des Creux; 011-41-027-771-6200;; 90 minutes from Geneva; minutes from main ski-lift at Medran; 2 restaurants and popular lunch terrace.
King’s Parc Hotel – Rue de la Poste; 011-41-027-775-2035;
Nevai – Route de Verbier; 011-41-027-775-4000;; for younger set with white-walled aesthetic.
Solmai – Route de Verbier; 011-41-076-205-5501;; beautiful; 10 rooms.

Cabane Mont Fort – CP 105; 011-41-027-778-1384;; stunning views; simple, well-priced dishes; on ski run from La Chaux to Les Gentians.
Le Caveau – Place Centrale; 011-41-027-771-2226;; on Verbier’s main roundabout; traditional raclette (melted cheese) maker on premises; 5 fondue types.
Coco Club – Place Centrale; 011-41-027-771-6834;; après-ski; busy, rustic mountain-top spot with sunny terrace; no reservations and cash only.
Chez Dany – Chemin de Clambin (on mountain below Ruinettes lift); 011-41-027-771-2524; on Les Ruinette ski run; lunch and dinner; cut above rest; typical Swiss fare such as fondue and steak; make sure to take sled ride down mountain after dinner, in moonlight.
L’Ecurie – Place Centrale (at Hotel Ermitage Verbier); 011-41-027-771-2760;; family-owned, known for upmarket comfort food like poussin com frites and homemade pasta.
King’s Restaurant – Rue de la Poste (in King’s Parc Hotel); 011-41-027-775-2035;; typically booked every night during winter season; cauliflower soup with winter truffles; grilled wild boar chop with oxtail ragout and potato fondant.
La Marmotte – Place Centrale; 011-41-027-771-6834;; mountain-top locale; rustic with sunny terrace; famous for fondues, rostis, and spaghetti; no reservations and cash only.
Le Sonalon – Route de la Marlenaz; 011-41-027-771-7271;; near Savoleyres ski run; gourmet salads, crepes, grilled meat (braised rabbit infused with rosemary).
La Table d’Adrien – Chemin Des Creux; 011-41-027-771-6200;; reservations required; gourmet.
Au Vieux Verbier – Gare de Médran; 011-41-027-771-1668; reservations required; gourmet restaurant.

Guides – (1) John Falkiner ($445 per day), 011-41-079-261-7713, (1 of area’s top mountain ski guides, with great stories and knowledge about restaurants); (2) Guillaume Nantermod ($500 per day), 011-41-079-431-2558, world champion snowboarder who books well in advance.
Mountain Air – 11 Rude de Medran; 011-41-027-771-6231;; skiing equipment.
Solmai Spa – Route de Verbier; 011-41-076-205-5501;; 10K square foot, multi-room space with lounge, gym, little café, and treatment rooms.

Boutique Denise Denti – Rue de la Poste; 011-41-027-771-3422; stocks both clothing and home décor.
Coskun Gallery – 21 Rue de Medran; 011-41-027-771-3390;
Depeche Mode – 4 Rue de Medran; 011-41-027-771-5666;; sells boutique designer items by Filippa K and Odd Molly.

Friday, March 16, 2012


(includes Bellevue & Coligny)

Beau-Rivage, Geneva – 13 Quai du Mont-Blanc; 011-41022-716-6666;; grand Victorian palace on Right Bank; many rooms have Alps and lake views; 5-story lobby.
Grand Hotel Kempinski Geneva – 19 Quai du Mont-Blanc; 011-41-022-908-9081;
InterContinental Geneva – 7 Chemin du Petit-Saconnex; 011-41-022-919-3939;; Tony Chi designed.
La Reserve Geneve Hotel & Spa – 301 Route de Lausanne (Bellevue); 011-41-022-959-5959;; city-resort hotel cocooned in 10-acre park on Lake Geneva; French designer Jacques Garcia has created dramatic, transporting interiors that feel world away from city; lake accessed from private dock & guests can book trips on hotel’s own Venetian motoscaffo for picturesque lake tours or simple transfers to boutiques & restaurants; 4 superb restaurants, Le Loti, Le Tsé Fung, poolside summer grill & Café Lauren (part of 2K sq m La Réserve spa, largest spa in Geneva).
Hotel President Wilson – 47 Quai Wilson; 011-41-022-906-6666;; newly renovated with stunning Alps and Lake Geneva views.

Zeller Chocolatier – 1 Place Longemalle; 011-41-022-311-5026;; only for chocolate-covered nuts; their chocolates are bad.

Arve & Rhone Rivers Junction – 27 Sentier des Saules; 011-41-022-418-5000;; place where Rivers Arve & Rhône join each other, creating beautiful & unique natural phenomenon, each having different color; can see waters mix & join into one final river (Rhône); can watch this scenario best from bridge, just 40 meters after junction; get tram to Junction, walk across bridge & turn right, take path into forest (sign Cimetiére de Saint-Georges); walk path about 10 minutes by river, until come to red-white building, Cafe de la Tour, from where can see bridge & rivers joining; can sit here, but for best view, go on bridge (walking path).
Art & History Museum – 2 Rue Charles-Galland; 011-41-022-418-2600;; actually spread over 4 different sites.
Bourg-de-Four Square – Place du Bourg-de-Four;; notable for Medieval fountains.
Carouge Museum – 2 Place de Sardaigne; 011-41-022-342-3383; 1789, Louis XVI master watchmaker residence; Sardinian garden makes pleasant destination for stroll in well-preserved district enlivened by numerous handicraft shops; permanent collections (viewed on request) consist mainly of earthenware produced by Carouge factory between 1810-1930, Noverraz Art Deco ceramic (1930-1960), and various contemporary ceramic works.
CGN – 17 Avenue de Rhodanie (Lausanne); 011-41-021-601-1666;; vintage ferry operator that offers combined dinner-excursion experiences.
Espace Ami Lullin – Promenade des Bastions; 011-41-022-418-2800;; library holdings.
Espace Rousseau – 40 Grand Rue; 011-41-021-310-1028;; house where Jean-Jacques Rousseau born in 1712; 30 minutes audiovisual tour through his life and works.
Fondation Martin Bodmer-Bibliothèque et Musée Cologny – 19-21 Route du Guignard (Coligny); 011-41-022-707-4433;; Swiss heritage site; Bodmer Papyri and Gutenberg Bible.
Glacier Express – 30 Rue du Mont-Blanc (Cornavin, main station); 011-41-022-732-7120 (main station number); or (schedules in English); train that runs from Geneva to Zurich, through Alps; spine-tingling.
Institut et Musée Voltaire – 25 Rue des Délices; 011-41-022-344-7133;; Voltaire’s former residence; houses drawing, manuscripts, old editions, paintings, and sculptures; library offers glimpse into author’s day-to-day life; in lovely Parc Delices (which Voltaire described as Les Jardins d’Epicure).
Jet d’Eau – Quai du General-Guisan Geneva; 011-41-022-909-7000;; city’s landmark fountain.
Maison Tavel – 6 Rue du Puits-St-Pierre; 011-41-022-418-3700;; museum for city’s history.
MAMCO – 10 Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers; 011-41-022-320-6122;; museum of contemporary and modern art.
Musée Ariana – 10 Avenue de la Paix; 011-41-022-418-5450;; Swiss ceramics and glass museum.
Musée d’Art (& Cabinet d’Arts Graphiques) – 5 Promenade du Pin; 011-41-022-418-2770;; diverse collection, from ancient Egyptian artifacts to contemporary holdings.
Musée Barbier-Mueller – 10 Rue Jean-Calvin; 011-41-022-312-0270;; “tribal art,” ethnographic museum.
Musée de Ethnographie/Carl-Vogt – 65 Boulevard Carl-Vogt; 011-41-022-418-4550;; main “tribal arts” museum; closed through 2014.
Musée de Ethnographie/Conches – 7 Chemin Calandrini; 011-41-022-346-0125;; ethnic collection from 5 continents; in old house in country-type setting.
Musée de Ethnographie/Ports Francs – 4 bis Route des Jeunes; 011-41-022-418-4550;; cultural and ethnic history museum from around world.
Musée Patek Philippe – Les Savoises; 011-41-022-807-0910;; watches.
Old Town – preserved city portion.
St. Pierre Cathedral – 24 Place du Bourg de Four; 011-41-022-319-7195;; Swiss Reformed Church begun under Arducius de Faucigny; John Calvin’s adopted home (includes his wooden chair); site dates back to 8thth-10th Centuries; German painter Konrad Witz painted altarpiece, St. Peter Altarpiece (1444, now in Musée d’Art et d’Histoire, Geneva), which contains his most famous composition, Miraculous Draught of Fishes; recently opened is multi-millenia, pre-Christian discoveries that encompass more than 30K square under Cathedral.


Adriano’s – 2 Theaterplatz; 011-41-031-318-8831;; good coffee.
Beck Glatz Confiseur – 1 Marktgass-Passage; 011-41-031-300-2024;; good coffee.

Bellevue Palace – 3-5 Kochergasse (Terrace Bar); 011-41-031-320-4545;; luxurious Art Nouveau hotel; offers sweeping Alps views (you can see Jungfrau fro deck); stiff cocktails; try Fancy Hendrick’s (cucumber syrup and lemon juice).
Dachstock – 8 Neubruckstrasse (at Reitschule); 011-41-031-306-6969;; bar servicing performance art venue.
Frauenraum – 8 Neubruckstrasse (at Reitschule); 011-41-031-306-6969;; among city’s few lesbian-centric spots.

Bellevue Palace – 3-5 Kochergasse; 011-41-031-320-4545;; luxurious Art Nouveau hotel; offers sweeping Alps views.
Hotel Landhaus – 4-6 Altenbergstrasse; 011-41-031-331-4166;; on old city’s eastern tip; basic but comfortable rooms.
Hotel Schweizerhof – 11 Bahnhofplatz; 011-41-031-326-8080;; 99-rooms; 150 years old.

Adriano’s – 2 Theaterplatz; 011-41-031-318-8831;; good for lunch; try Meh-he-he sandwich (goat cheese, arugula, dried figs, and honey).
Altes Tram Depot – 6 Grosser Muristalden; 011-41-031-357-1515;; good beer and lunch; try bacon and onion spaetzle.
Le Mazot – 5 Baerenplatz; 011-41-031-311-7088;; fondu in traditional atmosphere; no self-respecting Bernese has fondue other than in fall and winter, fyi.
Lotschberg – 16 Zeughausgasse; 011-41-031-311-3455;; fondu in modern atmosphere; call ahead to reserve table in gondola car parked outside.
Marzilibrucke – 8 Gasstrasse (Marzili); 011-41-031-311-2780;; Sunday brunch venue, starting at 10 a.m.
Restaurant Luce – 28 Zeughausgasse; 011-41-031-310-9999; tiramisu is worth trip for dessert alone; huge portion.
Rosengarten – 31b Alter Aargauerstalden; 011-41-031-331-3206;; garden restaurant serves good lunches, like pork saltimbocca and saffron risotto; affordable.
Schwellenmatteli – 1 Dalmaziquai; 011-41-031-350-5001;; riverside dining on deck cantilevered over Aare River; Italian-Mediterranean food (stick to Italian).
Sous le Pont – 8 Neubruckstrasse (at Reitschule); 011-41-031-306-6969;; restaurant serving performance art venue where.
Zehendermatteli – 161 Reichenbachstrasse (about 3.5 miles from downtown, on city’s far north side); 011-41-031-301-5447;; working farm and restaurant.

Bern Tourism Office – Bahnhofplatz (main railway station); 011-41-031-328-1212;; rent iPod for self-guided walking tour of city’s oldest parts; make sure to see cannonball scarring at Mattenenge 2, where Bernese rebels (who knew there were any? what could they be angry about?) fired in 1802.

Beck Glatz Confiseur – 1 Marktgass-Passage; 011-41-031-300-2024;
Confiserie Tschirren – 73 Kramgasse; 011-41-031-812-2122;; family making chocolate in Bern since 1919.
Glanz & Gloria – 48 Brunngasse; 011-41-031-311-1950;; vintage women’s clothing.
Heimatwerk – 61 Kramgasse; 011-41-031-311-3000;; souvenirs and tschotchkes.
Open-Air Market – Parliament Square (Bundeshausplatz); open every Saturday and Tuesday morning; artisan butchers and cheesemakers.

BaerenPark – 6 Grosser Muristalden; 011-41-031-357-1515;; 64.5K' square grassy enclosure housing city’s mascots (brown bears named Bjork and Finn).
Grindelwald –; municipality that also includes settlements of Alpiglen, Burglauenen, Grund, Itramen, Mühlebach, Schwendi, Tschingelberg & Wargistal.
Mahogany Hall – 18 Klosterlistutz; 011-41-031-328-5200;; live jazz venue since 1968; on river, next to BaerenPark.
Reitschule – 8 Neubruckstrasse; 011-41-031-306-6969;; performance art venue where, on Friday nights, white-collar professionals and purple-haired punks sit side by side, drinking beer at the nearby Sous le Pont restaurant.
Rosengarten – 31b Alter Aargauerstalden; 011-41-031-331-3206;; views of city, in addition to pretty garden.
Zentrum Paul Klee – 3 Monument im Fruchtland; 011-41-031-359-0101;; designed by Renzo Piano and worth visiting if only for architecture.


Hotel Les Trois Rois – 8 Blumenrain; 011-41-061-260-5050;; 1844 grande dame on Rhine River, ask for room facing Rhine River and/or in 1904 Art Deco wing.
Hotel Der Teufelhof – 49 Leonhardsgraben; 011-41-061-261-1010;; hotel-theatre-art gallery-restaurant; like sleeping in art exhibition; each room individually designed; all rooms comfortable and well-equipped; terrace, good food and extensive wine list; even in-house theater.
Hotel Au Violon – 4 Im Lohnhof; 011-41-061-269-8711;; once 12th Century cloister for priests; from 1835-1995, famous prison; comfortable and graceful; ask for bedroom fronting courtyard for prison cell feel (space is tight); rooms with windows open onto Altstadt are larger and more comfortable.

Bel Etage – 49 Leonhardsgraben (at Hotel Der Teufelhof); 011-41-061-261-1010;; good bistro fare.
Brasserie Au Violon – 4 Im Lohnhof (at Hotel Au Violon); 011-41-061-269-8711;; charming old-world brasserie with classic French cuisine; tables placed outside on terraced garden in fair weather.
Chez Donati – 48 St. Johanns-Vorstadt (at Hotel Les Trois Rois); 011-41-061-322-0919; Basel’s best Italian restaurant; ask for table with Rhine River view.
Kunsthalle Restaurant – 7 Steinenberg; 011-41-061-272-4233;; elegant with Kunsthalle (art gallery) work on walls; chandeliers, handsome rugs, stone arches leading into bar, and murals on walls; in main dining room, cold specialties served buffet style and white-jacketed waiters will take your orders for hot courses; try double entrecôte with risotto or grilled sea bass served with potatoes; also supper in bar available from same a la carte menu as in main restaurant.
Stucki – 42 Bruderholzallee; 011-41-061-361-8222;; Michelin-starred restaurant in house with long lawn and garden; local products with Asian touches, plus superb wine list, in sophisticated way.

Die Zwei – 72 St. Johanns-Vorstadt; 011-41-061-261-2904;; atelier in back and showroom up-front; womens’ wear.
Bernadette Koch – 23 St. Johanns-Vorstadt; 011-41-061-261-3765;; made-to-measure womens’ wear.
Matrix – 38 St. Johanns-Vorstadt; 011-41-061-281-5454;; scarves in all fabrics.
Showroombasel – 1 Vogesenplatz (at Stellwerk Bahnhof St. Johann); 011-41-061-313-4056;; clothing and home accessories.

Fondation Beyeler – 101 Baselstrasse; 011-41-061-645-9700;; building designed by Renzo Piano; Ernst Beyeler is among world’s most renowned gallery owners and collectors; over 180 modern classics, including Cezanne, Van Gogh, Picasso, Warhol, and Bacon.
Kunstmuseum Basel – 16 St. Alban-Graben; 011-41-061-206-6262;; largest and most significant public art collection in Switzerland; nationally significant heritage site; collection distinguished by wide historic span, from early 15th Century to present; contains largest collection of works by Holbein family; also, Lucas Cranach (“Elder”), Rubens, Rembrandt, Jan Brueghel (“Elder”), Manet, Monet, Gauguin, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Picasso, Braque, Gris, Munch, Kokoschka, Léger, Klee, Giacometti, and Chagall; note, see Caravaggio’s John the Baptist (1600).
Museum Tinguely – 2 Paul Sacher-Anlage; 011-41-061-681-9320;; museum unlike others; here, things rattle, squeak, crash, and thump; colorful scrap rotates, multi-colored lights flicker; place of vitality, laughter, amazement, and discovery.
St. Johann Neighborhood – at least 14 “star-architect” structures, including buildings and statues designed by Tadao Ando (28 Fabrikstrasse), David Chipperfield (22 Fabrikstrasse), Frank Gehry (15 Fabrikstrasse), Adolf Krischantiz (16 Fabrikstrasse), Vittorio Magnano Lampugnani (12 Fabrikstrasse), Fumihiko Maki (Square 3), Jose Rafael Moneo (14 Fabrikstrasse), Richard Serra (Wenken Park), and Yoshio Taniguchi (10 Fabrikstrasse).
Stellwerk Bahnhof St. Johann – 1 Vogesenplatz; 011-41-061-313-4056;; creative incubator that holds 25 young fashion, furniture, and product design firms.
Vitra Design Museum – 1 Charles-Eames-Strasse (Weil am Rhein, Germany); 011-49-7621-702-3200;; internationally renowned, privately owned museum for design, founded in 1989; focuses on furniture and interior design, centered around bequest of U.S. designers Charles and Ray Eames, as well as numerous other designers’ works.
Wenken Park – Bettingerstrasse (Riehen); 011-41-061-645-9511;; spacious park with manicured lawns, surrounded by some rare trees and shrubs; charming ponds and broad paths; worth visit; “Wenkenpark” part of ensemble “Wenkenhof,” oldest part dating back to medieval times; expanded in 1736 to French baroque garden pavilion with geometric garden.

Saturday, March 10, 2012


Lake Superior (North Shore, includes Duluth (St. Louis County), Grand Marais, Grand Portage, Lutsen, Tofte [all in Cook County] & Two Harbors [Lake County])

Blu Ice Bar – 2826 East Highway 61 (Two Harbors); 218-834-3796 or 800-627-9565;; actual carved ice bar; seasonal.
Tycoons Alehouse & Eatery – 132 East Superior Street (Duluth); 218-623-1889;; fully restored City Hall in this one-time city of millionaires.

East Bay Suites – 1 Wisconsin Street (Grand Marais, Highway 61 and Washington Street); 218-387-2800 or 800-414-2807;; built in 1910.
Fitger’s Inn – 600 East Superior Street (Duluth); 218-722-8826 or 888-348-4377;; in renovated 1885 brewery; 3 restaurants, 2 bars, and shops.
Larsmont Cottages – 596 Larsmont Way (Two Harbors); 218-834-8250 or 866-687-5634;; not too rustic, not too swanky; modeled on Swedish fishing village; modern kitchens, gas fireplaces, and high thread counts; bike, hike, and kayak; on Lake Superior’s shore.
Lutsen Resort – 5700 West Highway 61 (Lutsen); 218-663-7212 or 800-258-8736;; log cabin type accommodations on Lake Superior; Minnesota’s oldest resort, dating back to 1885.
Surfside on Lake Superior – 10 Surfside Drive (Tofte); 218-663-6970 or 877-361-7873;; waterfront retreat on Lake Superior’s north shore; contemporary townhomes; luxurious accommodations.
Sweetgrass Cove Guesthouse – 6880 East Highway 61 (Grand Portage); 218-475-2421 or 866-475-2421;; decadent, opulent, and private.
Temperance Landing – Temperance Trail (Tofte); 218-663-7220 or 877-723-6426;; log cabins on lake shores.

Amazing Grace Bakery & Café – 394 South Lake Avenue (Duluth, in Canal Park); 218-723-0075;; fair-trade coffee, folksingers on weekends, fresh baked goods.
Angry Trout Café – 416 West Highway 61 (Grand Marais); 218-387-1265;; humble, cedar-shake exterior of old fish shanty; everything local; try carrot cake.
Betty’s Pies – 1633 Highway 61 (Two Harbors); 218-834-3367;; dozen different pies daily; try Great Lakes Crunch (apples, blueberries, raspberries, rhubarb, and strawberries under cookie crumb crust) warm with ice cream; also coconut cream (like cheesecake) and chocolate cream (with cinnamon meringue); also makes pie “shake.”
Burrito Union – 1332 East 4th Street (Duluth); 218-728-4414;; chandeliers, chalkboards, and regular entertainment; local microbrews; try turkey dinner burrito.
Coho Café – 7126 West Highway 61 (Tofte); 218-663-8032; known for quiche, chowders, and hearty sandwiches; dine on patio or pick up trail lunch.
Crooked Spoon – 17 West Wisconsin Street (Grand Marais); 218-387-2779;; try onion soup, crabcakes, crooked BLTs, and/or maple crème brulee.
Gun Flint Tavern – 111 Wisconsin Street (Grand Marais); 218-387-1563;; homey bar that serves microbrews and sandwiches.
New Scenic Café – 5461 North Shore Drive (Duluth); 218-525-6274;; cozy restaurant with focus on seasonal, refined but unfussy offerings.
Rustic Inn Café – 2773 Highway 61 (Two Harbors); 218-834-2488;; great place for big breakfast.
Splashing Rock Restaurant – 2826 East Highway 61 (Two Harbors); 218-834-3796 or 800-627-9565;; actual carved ice restaurant; seasonal.
Sven & Ole’s – 9 West Wisconsin Street (Grand Marais); 218-387-1713;; institution famous for pizza.
Tycoons Alehouse & Eatery – 132 East Superior Street (Duluth); 218-623-1889;; fully restored City Hall in this one-time city of millionaires.
World’s Best Donuts – 10 East Wisconsin Street (Grand Marais); 218-387-1345;; classic cake donuts but ask for “skizzle.”

Sky Dan Airtours – 80 Sky Port Lane (Grand Marais); 218-370-0645;; ask for Dana Anderson; float-plane tours to see, among other things, moose.
Schooner Hjordis – 218-387-9762 or 888-387-9762; contact through North House Folk School.

Dockside Fish Market – 418 West Highway 61 (Grand Marais); 218-387-2906;; can get take-out food or eat on deck; great deli.
Drury Lane Books – 12 East Wisconsin Street (Grand Marais); 218-387-3370 or 888-887-3370;; historic, lavender-trimmed white cottage (once occupied by Grand Marais’ 1st lighthouse keeper); good selection.
Lake Superior Trading Post – 16 South 1st Avenue West (Grand Marais); 218-387-2020;; everything you need for outdoors experience.
Lockport Store – Highway 61 (Lutsen); 218-663-7548; feels like lumberjack fall-out shelter; good place for road snacks.
North House Folk School – 500 West Highway 61 (Grand Marais); 218-387-9762 or 888-387-9762;; in addition to classes, there are numerous sales booths with handmade crafts.
Sivertson Gallery – 14 West Wisconsin Street (Grand Marais); 218-387-2491 or 888-880-4369;; nature photography, carved wooden items, oil landscapes, etc.

Alpine Slide – 467 Ski Hill Road (Lutsen); 218-663-7281;; chairlift ride to summit of Eagle Mountain; great views; enjoy slide/luge trip down.
Boundary Waters Canoe Wilderness Area – Superior National Forest (Duluth, northern 3rd); 518-885-9964;; 1.3M acres in size, extending nearly 150 miles along International Boundary adjacent to Canada’s Quetico Provincial Park & bordered on west by Voyageurs National Park; over 1.2K miles canoe routes, over 1K lakes, 15 hiking trails & approximately 2K designated campsites; lottery type application for permit so read up on site to make sure follow directions.
Superior Hiking Trail – off US Survey Highway 1 (at Silver Bay’s west end);; Bean Lake, Bear Lake, Mount Trudee & Palisade Creek; trail heads north until arrives at cliff overlooking twin lakes; 5 miles roundtrip.
Devil’s Kettle – Judge C.R. Magney State Park, 4051 East Highway 61 (north of Grand Marais); 218-387-3039; need daily permit to get in; 2-mile, roundtrip hike; 2 roaring waterfalls, 1 that empties into Brule River and other that disappears into “kettle.”
Glensheen – 3300 London Road (Duluth); 218-726-8910 or 888-454-4536;; along Lake Superior’s shore; 7.6-acres of wooded land; 39-room Jacobean Revival mansion; Minnesota’s premier historic house museum; interiors have nearly all same furnishings and décor when estate completed in 1908; formal gardens and naturalistic landscape retain much original design.
Gooseberry Falls State Park – 3206 Highway 61 (Two Harbors); 218-834-3855; hike Gitchi-Gami State Trail.
Grand Portage State Park – 9393 East Highway 61 (Grand Portage); 218-475-2360; see “High Falls”; highest falls in state; lots of spray from thundering water.
Naniboujou Lodge – 20 Naniboujou Trail (Grand Marais); 218-387-2688;; built as part of exclusive private club, named after Nanabozho, character from Ojibwa traditional stories, décor influenced by native design, commenced in Jazz Age, original grandiose plans succumbed to Great Depression, and only clubhouse was built; retains original design and as historic property.
Oberg Mountain – 5 miles north of Tofte, off Onion River Road; 2.3 mile loop gradually circles mountain.
Sax-Zim Bog – Wrenshall (45 minutes outside Duluth);; major birding locale.
Split Rock Lighthouse – 3713 Split Rock Lighthouse Road (Two Harbors); 218-226-6372;
Tettegouche State Park – 5702 Highway 61 (Silver Bay); 218-226-6365;; hike out to Shovel Point; short walk from Tettegouche State Park’s north end to sculpted black granite and picturesque thundering, Illgen Falls; also, consider hiking “Temperance Trail.”
Witch Tree – outside Grand Portage; also called Manido Giizhigance (Little Cedar Spirit Tree) in Ojibwa; ancient Thuja occidentalis growing on Lake Superior’s shores; earliest written records of tree are by French explorer, Sieur de la Verendrye, in 1731, who commented on tree as mature at that time, making it at least 300 years old today; held sacred by Ojibwe, who traditionally leave offerings of tobacco to ensure safe journey on Lake Superior; tree is considered off limits to visitors unless accompanied by local Ojibwe band member; subject of many photographs.