BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●L’Heure Bleue – 1 Rue Carbonnerie; 011-33-4-6766-4105; facebook.com/pages/le-Dressing-de-lHeure-Bleue/158002687622705; cozy tearoom decorated in 19th Century, British drawing room style; also coffees and pastries.
●La Muse Gourmette – Avenue Samuel de Champlain (Antigone, Sunday Farmers’ Market); 011-33-6-8403-1227; baked goods, including gluten free.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Black Sheep – 21 Boulevard Louis Blanc; 011-33-4-6758-0865; theblackshep.fr; airy ground floor bar with live music; extensive beer list.
●Brasserie de l’Hotel de Ville – 80 Place Georges Freche; 011-33-4-6785-2296; bdhv-montpellier.com; pleasant spot to eat or have drink while admiring new City Hall.
●Papa Doble – 6 Rue du Petit Scel; 011-33-4-6755-6666; papadoble.fr; stylish, underground bar; Hemmingway shrine; try Caribbean Julep or Tokyo Society.
●La Robe Rouge – 3 Place St. Ravy; 011-33-9-5024-9189; laroberouge.fr; small modern space; candlelit wine bar.
HOTELS
●Baudon de Mauny – 1 Rue de la Carbonnerie; 011-33-4-6702-2177; baudondemauny.com; housed in 18th Century town house with 5 rooms done in impeccable taste.
●Courtyard Marriott – 105 Place Georges Freche; 011-33-4-9954-7400; marriott.com/mplcy; new, sleek, 123-rooms; next to new City Hall; heated outdoor pool; Mediterranean restaurant.
●Jardin des Sens – 11 Avenue Saint-Lazare; 011-33-4-9958-3838; jardindessens.com.
RESTAURANTS
●L’Atelier Gourmand – 17 Avenue du Pont Juvenal; 011-33-4-9951-7523; lateliergourmand-montpellier.com; design emporium and gastronomic temple; modern menu; 3-course dinner is great deal; great desserts (e.g., warm liquid dark chocolate in highball, served with chilled white chocolate with raspberry jelly).
●Les Bains – 6 Rue Richelieu; 011-33-4-6760-7087; les-bains-de-montpellier.com; former 18th Century bathhouse; now classic brasserie nestled in warren of cozy rooms; focus on seafood.
●Brasserie de l’Hotel de Ville – 80 Place Georges Freche; 011-33-4-6785-2296; bdhv-montpellier.com; pleasant spot to eat or have drink while admiring new City Hall.
●Jardin des Sens – 11 Avenue Saint-Lazare; 011-33-4-9958-3838; jardindessens.com.
●La Morue – 23 Rue du Palais des Guilhem; 011-33-4-6752-8262; boathouse-chic, tiny restaurant; unfussy seafood; lots of cod.
SERVICES
●Trams #3-4 – Moulares Station; montpellier-agglo.com/tam/index2.php; Christian Lacroix designed Tram Nos. 3 & 4; take number 3 to arrive next to Hotel de Ville (city hall).
SHOPPING
●En Traits Libres – 2 Rue du Bayle (L’Ecusson); 011-33-4-3411-3843; entraitslibres.blogspot.com; underground comic shop; expect to run into Robert Crumb, who lives in area; t-shirts, etc.
●Establissement Martin et Fils – 22 Boulevard Du Jeu De Paume or Avenue Samuel de Champlain (Antigone, Sunday Farmers’ Market); 011-33-8-9910-0017 or 011-33-6-1354-7378; dried meats.
●L’Heure Bleue – 1 Rue Carbonnerie; 011-33-4-6766-4105; facebook.com/pages/le-Dressing-de-lHeure-Bleue/158002687622705; cozy tearoom decorated in 19th Century, British drawing room style; knick-knacks
●Metropolitan – 30 Rue Foch (L’Ecusson); 011-33-4-6767-1870; metropolitan-ad.com; art gallery and home decor shop.
●No Comment – 47 Rue de l’Aiguillerie (L’Ecusson); 011-33-4-6760-8591; leather designer Marc Jaillot’s shop.
●Pierre Vives Building – 907 Rue du Professeur Blayac; 011-33-4-6767-3000; herault.pierresvives.fr; opening to public (shared spaces, such as balcony, gallery, and lobby), Tuesday-Saturday from 10-19; designed by Zaha Hadid; called City (or Tree) of Knowledge and sport; as name suggests, multicultural city; contains city archives and library, fitness center, exhibition gallery, and amphitheater.
●RBC Design Center – 609 Avenue Raymond Dugrand; 011-33-4-676-0750; rbcmobilier.com; designed by Jean Nouvel and Francois Fontes; coolly modernist structure; houses furniture showroom.
SIGHTS & SITES
●Cite Internationale de la Danse (Agora) – 18 Rue Sainte Ursule; 011-33-4-6760-8360; mathildemonnier.com; modern dance company housed in former 1641 convent.
●L’Ecusson – Montpellier’s historical core; among France’s largest pedestrian zones; twisting Baroque, Medieval, 19th Century, and Renaissance passages.
●Hotel de Ville de Montpellier – 1 Place Georges Freche; 011-33-4-6734-7000; montpellier.fr; blue, cube-like Jean Nouvel modernist structure.
●Marche Paysan Antigone – Avenue Samuel de Champlain (Antigone); marchepaysanantigone.free.fr; farmers’ market open Sunday mornings.
●Musee Fabre – 39 Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle; 011-33-4-6714-8300; museefabre.fr; from Dutch masters to abstract.
●Opera House – Place de la Comedie; 011-33-4-6760-1999; opera-montpellier.com.
●Parc Marianne – between historic city and Millennium Business centers; montpellier.fr/567-parc-marianne.htm; 20-acre park with extensive bike paths and pedestrian routes.
●Pierre Vives Building – Paillade, Malbosc, and Alco junction; herault.fr/culture/archives-departementales; by architect Zaha Hadid; long, sprawling structure of swirly white concrete layers and green-tinted glass; will hold archives, library, and municipal offices.
●RBC Design Center – 609 avenue Raymond Dugrand 34000 Montpellier Contact : TRISTAN Tel. +33(0)4 67 024 024; rbcmobilier.com/fr/Showrooms/Design-Center-Montpellier/Accueil; architect Jean Nouvel’s 9-story building (includes bookstore, exhibition space, and showroom); features museum-like interior divided vertically by central “canyon”; setup unfolds (in absence of solid walls) behind metallic mesh.
Monday, August 20, 2012
LYON
(Includes Firminy)
BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Terre Adelice – 1 Place de la Baleine; 011-33-4-7803-5184; terre-adelice.eu; artisanal ice creams.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●L’Antiquaire – 20 Rue Hippolyte Flandrin; 011-33-6-3421-5465; theantiquaryroom.com; American jazz bar; bow-tied bartenders serve seasonal cocktails.
●Ayers Rock Boat – 17 Quai Victor Augagneur; 011-33-4-7284-9890; facebook.com/AyersRockBoat.
●Docks – 40 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7840-4040; docks40.com; industrial chic lounge-restaurant that turns into nightclub around midnight.
●Rue Le Bec – 43 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7892-8787; nicolaslebec.com; sprawling restaurant and wine bar in gentrifying dock area.
●Soda – 7 Rue de la Martiniere; 011-33-4-7839-0666; soda-bar.fr; dark, plush den; cocktails.
HOTELS
●All Seasons Part Dieu – 54 Rue de la Villette; 011-33-4-7268-2540; all-seasons-hotels.com; 99 non-smoking rooms, bar and brasserie.
●Cour de Loges – 2-8 Rue du Bœuf; 011-33-04-7277-4444; courdesloges.com.
●DockOuest – 39 Rue des Docks; 011-33-4-7822-3434; dockouest.com; design hotel with 43 rooms; suites outfitted by Ligne Roset; “concocted” by Paul Bocuse.
●Hotel du Simplon – 11 Rue Duhamel; 011-33-4-7837-4100; hoteldusimplon.com; cozy, clean, and cute; 2 stars; 1 block from train station, in historic city center; breakfast included.
RESTAURANTS
●Do Mo – 45 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-3723-0923; do-mo.fr; industrial space with light-bulbs shaped like water droplets; French-Japanese menu; tables with mini-grills allow diners to cook meal.
●Docks – 40 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7840-4040; docks40.com; industrial chic lounge-restaurant that turns into nightclub around midnight.
●La Famille – 18 Rue Duviard (Croix-Rousse); 011-33-4-7298-8390; la-famille-croix-rousse.fr; have to take train out to this suburb, now home to many trendy shops, etc.; this particular location, not so trendy; good food for reasonable price.
●Au 14 Fevrier – 6 Rue Mourguet; 011-33-4-7892-9139; au14fevrier.com; tiny jewel-box restaurant; French-Japanese restaurant; Michelin star.
●Magalie et Martin – 11 Rue des Augustins; 011-33-4-7200-8801; magalietmartin.com; must have reservations; run by Austrian-French couple; quietly stylish; rustic food.
●Ouest Express – 41 Rue des Docks; 011-33-4-7217-9595; ouestexpress.fr; Paul Bocuse; average food but excellent vichyssoise and deep-fried chicken nuggets.
●Pain & Cie – 13 Rue Quatre Chapeaux; 011-33-4-7838-2984; painetcompagnie.fr; chain but very good.
●La Passagere – 21 Quai Victor Augagneur; 011-33-4-7273-3698; boat cafe; good place for drink.
●Le Petit Flore – 19 Rue du Garet; 011-33-4-7827-2751; lepetitflore.fr; open since 1976; bouchon (place that serves offal-based fare); exudes simple honesty; do not have to eat offal.
●Rue Le Bec – 43 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7892-8787; nicolaslebec.com; sprawling restaurant and wine bar in gentrifying dock area.
●Restaurant Tetedoie – Montee du Chemin Neuf; 011-33-4-7829-4010; tetedoie.com; futuristic establishment high above town on Fourviere Hill; slate floors, concrete walls, and floor-to-ceiling windows; Michelin-starred chef who has started this new enterprise.
SHOPPING
●Blue Mustach Shop – Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue Rene Leynaud (La Croix Rousse); 011-33-6-8393-2928; bluemustach.com; t-shirts.
●Cote Desserts – Quai St.-Antoine & Quai des Celestins (Marche St.-Antoine); 011-33-4-7845-1945; excellent quince tarts.
●Jouvray – Quai St.-Antoine & Quai des Celestins (Marche St.-Antoine); 011-33-4-7401-1685; cheeses.
●Marche St.-Antoine – Quai St.-Antoine & Quai des Celestins; outdoor market.
●Marechal – 102 Cours Lafayette; 011-33-4-7862-3677; marechal-fraicheur.fr; cheese stall; try St.-Marcellin.
●Morgan Kirch – Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue Rene Leynaud (La Croix Rousse); 011-33-6-2601-2558; morgankirch.fr; women’s wear.
●Rue Le Bec – 43 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7892-8787; nicholaslebec.com; renovated warehouse complex that includes this laid-back, market-style location next to bakery and green grocer; perfect for takeout.
SIGHTS & SITES
●Cathedral of St.-Jean-Baptiste – 8 Place St.-Jean; 011-33-4-7854-7621; cathedrale-lyon.cef.fr; check out gargoyles, etc.; interior contains towering astronomical clock.
●Gare TGV Lyon Saint-Exupery – Colombier-Saugnieu; 011-33-4-7277-6969; raileurope.com/TGV; striking Calatrava architecture; worth seeing.
●Les Halles – 102 Cours Lafayette; halledelyon.free.fr; across Rhone River, in Part-Dieu; modern city center; food marketplace.
●Institut Lumiere – 25 Rue du Premier Film; 011-33-4-7878-1895; institut-lumiere.org; Lumiere Brothers’ Art Nouveau mansion now museum that shows their original films; next door, their former factory is theater that shows international film classics.
●Musee d’Art Contemporain de Lyon – 81 Quai Charles de Gaulle (Cite Internationale); 011-33-4-7269-1717; mac-lyon.com; Art Deco building modified by Renzo Piano; top notch contemporary shows.
●Musee de la Civilisation Gallo-Romaine – 17 Rue Cleberg; 011-33-4-7238-4930; musees-gallo-romains.com.
●Parc de la Tete d’Or – 1 Boulevard du 11 Novembre 1918; 011-33-4-7282-3500; lyon.fr/page/culture-et-loisirs/ville-nature/le-parc-de-la-tete-dor.html; located on Rhone River banks; 105 hectares with 7 entry gates; most notable gate is Door of Children of Rhone, which opens onto 16-hectare lake; vast lawns alternate with groves over century old; flower beds (roses and peonies); among France’s largest and most beautiful urban parks; Rose Garden Internationale de Lyon covers 40K square meters and has 30K roses (350 varieties); also 2 other rose gardens (Rose Garden of Botanical Garden, which traces rose history, and rose garden that supports International Competition of New Roses; park encompasses more than 8.8K trees (Cedars of Lebanon, tulip trees, gingko biloba, bald cypress); by 1857, Botanical Garden of Lyon (created in 1796 on Croix-Rousse slopes) transferred to Parc de la Tete d’Or; largest botanical garden in municipal France; 8 hectares of which 6.5K square meters of greenhouses.
●Quai de la Pecherie – known for old and rare booksellers, as well as postcards, records, etc.
●RBC Lyon – 42 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7204-2525; rbcmobilier; 10K square foot showroom for modern furniture; architecturally fascinating structure (large orange cube with apparent bite taken from it).
●Rhone Rive Gauche – from Gerland district to Parc de la Tete d’Or; en.lyon-france.com or fleuverhone.com/eng/Encyclopaedia/Geography-and-history/Principal-Cities-on-the-Rhone/Lyon; start at reflecting pools on Quai Claude Bernard and head north; along Quai Victor Augagneur, check posters for floating nightclubs; beyond Pont Wilson, boat-café, La Passagere, is cozy spot for hot chocolate; from there, walk to Parc de la Tete d’Or.
●Saint-Pierre Church – Place du Mail, 1, Rue des Noyers (Firminy); lecorbusier.ville-firminy.fr/page.php?nIdSousRubrique_PM=21; Le Corbusier and José Oubrerie were unusual collaborators on Eglise St.-Pierre de Firminy, whose design took 43 years to complete in Loire Valley.
●Village des Createurs – Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue Rene Leynaud (La Croix Rousse); 011-33-4-7827-3721; villagedescreateurs.com; alley of local design boutiques.
BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Terre Adelice – 1 Place de la Baleine; 011-33-4-7803-5184; terre-adelice.eu; artisanal ice creams.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●L’Antiquaire – 20 Rue Hippolyte Flandrin; 011-33-6-3421-5465; theantiquaryroom.com; American jazz bar; bow-tied bartenders serve seasonal cocktails.
●Ayers Rock Boat – 17 Quai Victor Augagneur; 011-33-4-7284-9890; facebook.com/AyersRockBoat.
●Docks – 40 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7840-4040; docks40.com; industrial chic lounge-restaurant that turns into nightclub around midnight.
●Rue Le Bec – 43 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7892-8787; nicolaslebec.com; sprawling restaurant and wine bar in gentrifying dock area.
●Soda – 7 Rue de la Martiniere; 011-33-4-7839-0666; soda-bar.fr; dark, plush den; cocktails.
HOTELS
●All Seasons Part Dieu – 54 Rue de la Villette; 011-33-4-7268-2540; all-seasons-hotels.com; 99 non-smoking rooms, bar and brasserie.
●Cour de Loges – 2-8 Rue du Bœuf; 011-33-04-7277-4444; courdesloges.com.
●DockOuest – 39 Rue des Docks; 011-33-4-7822-3434; dockouest.com; design hotel with 43 rooms; suites outfitted by Ligne Roset; “concocted” by Paul Bocuse.
●Hotel du Simplon – 11 Rue Duhamel; 011-33-4-7837-4100; hoteldusimplon.com; cozy, clean, and cute; 2 stars; 1 block from train station, in historic city center; breakfast included.
RESTAURANTS
●Do Mo – 45 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-3723-0923; do-mo.fr; industrial space with light-bulbs shaped like water droplets; French-Japanese menu; tables with mini-grills allow diners to cook meal.
●Docks – 40 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7840-4040; docks40.com; industrial chic lounge-restaurant that turns into nightclub around midnight.
●La Famille – 18 Rue Duviard (Croix-Rousse); 011-33-4-7298-8390; la-famille-croix-rousse.fr; have to take train out to this suburb, now home to many trendy shops, etc.; this particular location, not so trendy; good food for reasonable price.
●Au 14 Fevrier – 6 Rue Mourguet; 011-33-4-7892-9139; au14fevrier.com; tiny jewel-box restaurant; French-Japanese restaurant; Michelin star.
●Magalie et Martin – 11 Rue des Augustins; 011-33-4-7200-8801; magalietmartin.com; must have reservations; run by Austrian-French couple; quietly stylish; rustic food.
●Ouest Express – 41 Rue des Docks; 011-33-4-7217-9595; ouestexpress.fr; Paul Bocuse; average food but excellent vichyssoise and deep-fried chicken nuggets.
●Pain & Cie – 13 Rue Quatre Chapeaux; 011-33-4-7838-2984; painetcompagnie.fr; chain but very good.
●La Passagere – 21 Quai Victor Augagneur; 011-33-4-7273-3698; boat cafe; good place for drink.
●Le Petit Flore – 19 Rue du Garet; 011-33-4-7827-2751; lepetitflore.fr; open since 1976; bouchon (place that serves offal-based fare); exudes simple honesty; do not have to eat offal.
●Rue Le Bec – 43 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7892-8787; nicolaslebec.com; sprawling restaurant and wine bar in gentrifying dock area.
●Restaurant Tetedoie – Montee du Chemin Neuf; 011-33-4-7829-4010; tetedoie.com; futuristic establishment high above town on Fourviere Hill; slate floors, concrete walls, and floor-to-ceiling windows; Michelin-starred chef who has started this new enterprise.
SHOPPING
●Blue Mustach Shop – Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue Rene Leynaud (La Croix Rousse); 011-33-6-8393-2928; bluemustach.com; t-shirts.
●Cote Desserts – Quai St.-Antoine & Quai des Celestins (Marche St.-Antoine); 011-33-4-7845-1945; excellent quince tarts.
●Jouvray – Quai St.-Antoine & Quai des Celestins (Marche St.-Antoine); 011-33-4-7401-1685; cheeses.
●Marche St.-Antoine – Quai St.-Antoine & Quai des Celestins; outdoor market.
●Marechal – 102 Cours Lafayette; 011-33-4-7862-3677; marechal-fraicheur.fr; cheese stall; try St.-Marcellin.
●Morgan Kirch – Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue Rene Leynaud (La Croix Rousse); 011-33-6-2601-2558; morgankirch.fr; women’s wear.
●Rue Le Bec – 43 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7892-8787; nicholaslebec.com; renovated warehouse complex that includes this laid-back, market-style location next to bakery and green grocer; perfect for takeout.
SIGHTS & SITES
●Cathedral of St.-Jean-Baptiste – 8 Place St.-Jean; 011-33-4-7854-7621; cathedrale-lyon.cef.fr; check out gargoyles, etc.; interior contains towering astronomical clock.
●Gare TGV Lyon Saint-Exupery – Colombier-Saugnieu; 011-33-4-7277-6969; raileurope.com/TGV; striking Calatrava architecture; worth seeing.
●Les Halles – 102 Cours Lafayette; halledelyon.free.fr; across Rhone River, in Part-Dieu; modern city center; food marketplace.
●Institut Lumiere – 25 Rue du Premier Film; 011-33-4-7878-1895; institut-lumiere.org; Lumiere Brothers’ Art Nouveau mansion now museum that shows their original films; next door, their former factory is theater that shows international film classics.
●Musee d’Art Contemporain de Lyon – 81 Quai Charles de Gaulle (Cite Internationale); 011-33-4-7269-1717; mac-lyon.com; Art Deco building modified by Renzo Piano; top notch contemporary shows.
●Musee de la Civilisation Gallo-Romaine – 17 Rue Cleberg; 011-33-4-7238-4930; musees-gallo-romains.com.
●Parc de la Tete d’Or – 1 Boulevard du 11 Novembre 1918; 011-33-4-7282-3500; lyon.fr/page/culture-et-loisirs/ville-nature/le-parc-de-la-tete-dor.html; located on Rhone River banks; 105 hectares with 7 entry gates; most notable gate is Door of Children of Rhone, which opens onto 16-hectare lake; vast lawns alternate with groves over century old; flower beds (roses and peonies); among France’s largest and most beautiful urban parks; Rose Garden Internationale de Lyon covers 40K square meters and has 30K roses (350 varieties); also 2 other rose gardens (Rose Garden of Botanical Garden, which traces rose history, and rose garden that supports International Competition of New Roses; park encompasses more than 8.8K trees (Cedars of Lebanon, tulip trees, gingko biloba, bald cypress); by 1857, Botanical Garden of Lyon (created in 1796 on Croix-Rousse slopes) transferred to Parc de la Tete d’Or; largest botanical garden in municipal France; 8 hectares of which 6.5K square meters of greenhouses.
●Quai de la Pecherie – known for old and rare booksellers, as well as postcards, records, etc.
●RBC Lyon – 42 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7204-2525; rbcmobilier; 10K square foot showroom for modern furniture; architecturally fascinating structure (large orange cube with apparent bite taken from it).
●Rhone Rive Gauche – from Gerland district to Parc de la Tete d’Or; en.lyon-france.com or fleuverhone.com/eng/Encyclopaedia/Geography-and-history/Principal-Cities-on-the-Rhone/Lyon; start at reflecting pools on Quai Claude Bernard and head north; along Quai Victor Augagneur, check posters for floating nightclubs; beyond Pont Wilson, boat-café, La Passagere, is cozy spot for hot chocolate; from there, walk to Parc de la Tete d’Or.
●Saint-Pierre Church – Place du Mail, 1, Rue des Noyers (Firminy); lecorbusier.ville-firminy.fr/page.php?nIdSousRubrique_PM=21; Le Corbusier and José Oubrerie were unusual collaborators on Eglise St.-Pierre de Firminy, whose design took 43 years to complete in Loire Valley.
●Village des Createurs – Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue Rene Leynaud (La Croix Rousse); 011-33-4-7827-3721; villagedescreateurs.com; alley of local design boutiques.
Wednesday, August 15, 2012
GHANA
ADA
Sights & Sites
●Songor Lagoon – Dangbe East; unesco.org/new/en/natural-sciences/environment/ecological-sciences/biosphere-reserves/africa/ghana/songor/; UNESCO Biosphere Preserve; 29K hectares; intensive research is focused on sea turtles that nest in area; manatees also inhabit waters; lagoon additionally acts as important waypoint for European migratory birds that winter in Ghana; site known to exceed bird population of 100K in European winter, with migratory terns, sandpipers, stilts, plovers, and other waterfowl adding to local population; 2 bird watching platforms, one in Pute and one in Lolanya (varieties such as sandwich, black, royal, roseate, and little terns, black-winged stilts, ringed plovers, curlew sandpipers, spotted redshanks, and greenshanks); best months to see turtles are August-March (walks conducted at night, between 23:00 and 2:00, when sea turtles likely to nest on beach); also noteworthy is Crocodile Island, where little egrets, western reef herons, and cormorants are known to breed; island also acclaimed for its basket-weaving industry.
Sights & Sites
●Songor Lagoon – Dangbe East; unesco.org/new/en/natural-sciences/environment/ecological-sciences/biosphere-reserves/africa/ghana/songor/; UNESCO Biosphere Preserve; 29K hectares; intensive research is focused on sea turtles that nest in area; manatees also inhabit waters; lagoon additionally acts as important waypoint for European migratory birds that winter in Ghana; site known to exceed bird population of 100K in European winter, with migratory terns, sandpipers, stilts, plovers, and other waterfowl adding to local population; 2 bird watching platforms, one in Pute and one in Lolanya (varieties such as sandwich, black, royal, roseate, and little terns, black-winged stilts, ringed plovers, curlew sandpipers, spotted redshanks, and greenshanks); best months to see turtles are August-March (walks conducted at night, between 23:00 and 2:00, when sea turtles likely to nest on beach); also noteworthy is Crocodile Island, where little egrets, western reef herons, and cormorants are known to breed; island also acclaimed for its basket-weaving industry.
Sunday, August 12, 2012
ST. PETERSBURG-TAMPA
(includes Anna Maria Island, Clearwater, Holmes Beach, St. Pete Beach, Tarpon Springs & Ybor City)
BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Ginny’s & Jane E’s – 9807 Gulf Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-8203; café and bakery.
●Kahwa Espresso Bar – 475 2nd Street North (St. Petersburg); 727-823-4700; kawhacoffee.com; French café with bright, minimalist interior.
●Kahwa Cafe – 204 2nd Avenue South (St. Petersburg); 727-821-1942; kawhacoffee.com.
●Pane Rustica – 3225 South MacDill Avenue (Tampa); 813-902-8828; panerusticabakery.com; breakfast pastries.
●Sophie’s French Bakery & Cafe – 1633 West Snow Avenue (Tampa); 813-254-5257; sophiesbakerycafe.com; great for breakfast pastry and coffee.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Feeling Swell – 9903 Gulf Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-896-7879; feelingswellsurfbar.com.
●Hurricane – 807 Gulf Way (St. Pete Beach); 727-360-9558; thehurricane.com; have cocktail on roof and watch sun go down.
●Independent – 29 3rd Street North (St. Petersburg); 727-820-9514; independentbeer.com; candlelit beerhall with retractable glass façade.
DIVES
●Veteran’s Reef – shipwreck trio that serves as goliath grouper breeding ground.
HOTELS
●Ponce de Leon Boutique Hotel – 95 Central Avenue (St. Petersburg); 727-550-9300; poncedeleonhotel.com.
●Post Card Inn on Beach – 6300 Gulf Boulevard; 727-367- 2711 or 800-237-8918; postcardinn.com; renovated 1957 motor inn; chic and spare; right on beach; rooms closest to pool have private hammocks; 2 rooms have balconies (#s 362 and 364) that look toward beach; non-renovated bathrooms.
RESTAURANTS
●Beach Bistro – 6600 Gulf Drive (Holmes Beach); 941-778-6444; beachbistro.com; swank-ish but you can wear flip-flops; try “White Castle” slider.
●Bern’s Steak House – 1208 South Howard Avenue (Tampa); 813-251-2421; bernssteakhouse.com; down-at-heels, tacky, tatty, wonderful; regional favorite and standby since 1950s; legendary dessert array.
●Brocato’s Sandwich Shop – 5021 East Columbus Drive (Tampa); 813-248-9977; open since 1948; devil crabs like geodes.
●Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant – 95 Central Avenue (St. Petersburg); 727-209-2299; ceviche.com; Spanish food.
●Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant – 1502 South Howard Avenue (Tampa); 813-250-0203; ceviche.com; Spanish food.
●Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant – 2930 Gulf-to-Bay Boulevard (Clearwater); 727-799-3082; ceviche.com; Spanish food.
●Columbia Restaurant – 2117 East 7th Avenue (Tampa, Ybor City); 813-248-4961; columbiarestaurant.com; open since 1905; beautiful, old building with tile-work worth viewing in and of itself; try Paella a la Valenciana, Snapper Alicante, and/or Pompano en Papillot; also black bean soup and fried ripe plantains; must order flan (made Cuban-style with sweetened condensed milk).
●Duffy’s Tavern – 5808 Marina Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-2501; duffystavernami.com; hamburgers named among best in country in 1989; don’t ask for French fries and no credit cards or attitude.
●Michelle Faedo’s Sandwich Shop – 3609 North 15th Street (Ybor City); 813-247-3020; devilcrab.com; must order devil crabs; also has great Cuban sandwiches.
●Mr. Empanada – 3953 West Kennedy Boulevard (Tampa); 813-872-6233; mrempanada.com; crab empanadas.
●Mr. Empanada – 4836 North Armenia Avenue (Tampa); 813-879-6232; mrempanada.com; crab empanadas.
●Mr. Empanada – 7541 West Hillsborough Avenue (Tampa); 813-249-6233; mrempanada.com; crab empanadas.
●Feeling Swell – 9903 Gulf Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-896-7879; feelingswellsurfbar.com.
●Ginny’s & Jane E’s – 9807 Gulf Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-8203; café and bakery.
●Kahwa Cafe – 204 2nd Avenue South (St. Petersburg); 727-821-1942; kawhacoffee.com.
●Neyda’s Buy & Fly Café – 540 South 50th Street; 813-248-8816; Jamaican beef patties, fried chicken gizzards, yucca fritters, and devil crabs; this is convenience store.
●Pane Rustica – 3225 South MacDill Avenue (Tampa); 813-902-8828; panerusticabakery.com; Italian bakery that also serves lunch and supper; also, late night desserts.
●Paninoteca – 519 North Franklin Street (Tampa); 813-341-2525; paninotecacafe.com; light Mediterranean fare.
●Pipo’s Cafe – 11417 North Dale Mabry Highway; 813-963-7476; pipos.com; Cuban food; try ropa vieja, black bean soup, and deviled crab.
●Pipo’s Cafe – 411 South McDill Avenue; 813-871-5252; pipos.com; Cuban food; try ropa vieja, black bean soup, and deviled crab.
●Pipo’s Cafe – 3501 North Armenia Avenue; 813-876-7476; pipos.com; Cuban food; try ropa vieja, black bean soup, and deviled crab.
●Rod & Reel – 875 North Shore Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-1885; 2-story restaurant, at end of pier; insider sunset spot and local knowledge about beaches.
●Sandbar – 100 Spring Avenue (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-0444; sandbar-restaurant.com; good fried seafood and outdoor seating.
●Sign of Mermaid – 9707 Gulf Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-9399; signofthemermaid.com; in 1913 cottage; seafood and baked goods.
●Skinny’s Place – 3901 Gulf Drive North (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-7769; burgers.
●Sophie’s French Bakery & Cafe – 1633 West Snow Avenue (Tampa); 813-254-5257; sophiesbakerycafe.com; quiches, salads, and sandwiches.
●Star Fish Co. – 12306 46th Avenue West (Anna Maria Island); 941-794-1243; starfishcompany.com; fish market and restaurant.
●La Teresita – 3248 West Columbus Drive (Tampa); 813-879-9704; lateresitarestaurant.com; Cuban-Spanish; open extra late for Cuban sandwiches.
●West Tampa Sandwich Shop – 3904 North Armenia Avenue; 813-873-7104; westtampasandwichshop.com; great roast pork and ham sandwiches; also, huge devil crabs.
SHOPPING
●Cacciatore & Sons – 3614 North Armenia Avenue; 813-872-7255; cacciatoreandsons.com; specialty groceries.
●Greiner’s – 117 East Whiting Street (Tampa); 813-226-3207; greinersclothing.com; men’s wear.
●Inkwood Books – 216 South Armenia Avenue (Tampa); 813-253-2638; inkwoodbooks.com; independent bookseller.
●Mesh – 689 Central Avenue (St. Petersburg); meshshowroom.com; high-end contemporary furnishings.
●La Segunda Central Bakery – 2512 North 15th Street (Ybor City); 813-248-1531; lasegundabakery.com; purchase palmetto-leaf-topped Cuban bread.
●Sunshine Thrift Store – 4304 South Dale Mabry Highway (Tampa); 813-831-4377; sunshinethrift.com; vintage wear.
SIGHTS & SITES
●Florida Museum of Photographic Arts – 200-400 North Ashley Drive (Tampa); 813-221-2222; fmopa.org; occupies 2nd & 3rd floors architecturally significant Cube adjacent to Rivergate Tower in downtown.
●Fred Howard Park – 1700 Sunset Drive (Tarpon Springs); 727-943-4081; pinellascounty.org/park/06_howard.htm; 155 acres on Gulf; mile-long causeway links main park area with white, sandy beach; worth special trip.
●Lettuce Lake Park – 6920 East Fletcher Avenue (Tampa); 813-987-6204; hillsboroughcounty.org; just outside city limits between I-75 and University of South Florida; features several boardwalks that wind through various Florida ecosystems; fresh water wetland and flood plain, oak-dominated hardwood forest, cypress domes, and Hillsborough River; visitor’s center, observation tower, nature trails, picnic tables, barbecue pits, restrooms, open play field, and playground; wear mosquito repellant and do NOT pick up shells (bacteria issue).
●Museum of Science & Industry – 4801 East Fowler Avenue (Tampa); 813-987-6000; mosi.org.
●Henry B. Plant Museum – 401 West Kennedy Boulevard (Tampa); 813-254-1891; plantmuseum.com; south wing Plant Hall on University of Tampa campus; formerly Tampa Bay Hotel, 500+ room resort hotel opened in 1891 by Henry B. Plant near rail line terminus; exhibits focus on Tampa’s Gilded Age lifestyle; hosts annual Victorian Christmas Stroll.
●River Walk – starts off Beneficial & Channelside Drives’ intersection and culminates off Cass Street (Tampa); 813-731-4508; thetampariverwalk.com; phased open space and pedestrian trail development along Hillsborough River; travels along Tampa Arts District and includes Curtis Hixon Park, Tampa Museum of Art, Glazer Children’s Museum, Rivergate Tower, and adjacent atrium containing Florida Museum of Photographic Arts; extends to Channelside District and is slated to connect up with part of Tampa Heights; long term goal is to complete continuous 2.4 mile path.
●Salvador Dali Museum – 1 Dali Boulevard (St. Petersburg); 727-823-3767; salvadordalimuseum.org.
●Studio@620 – 620 1st Avenue (St. Petersburg); studio620.org; performance art as well as traditional art.
●Tampa Museum of Art – 120 West Gasparilla Plaza (Tampa); 813-274-8130; tampamuseum.org; 20th Century fine art, as well as Etruscan, Greek, and Roman antiquities; on Tampa’s Riverwalk and Waterfront Arts District.
●Tampa Theater – 711 North Franklin Street (Tampa); 813-274-8981; tampatheatre.org; renovated 1926 movie theater that still plays Wurlitzer organ before shows.
●Waterfront Arts District – along River Walk (Tampa); tampasdowntown.com/live/district-areas/river-arts.aspx.
BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Ginny’s & Jane E’s – 9807 Gulf Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-8203; café and bakery.
●Kahwa Espresso Bar – 475 2nd Street North (St. Petersburg); 727-823-4700; kawhacoffee.com; French café with bright, minimalist interior.
●Kahwa Cafe – 204 2nd Avenue South (St. Petersburg); 727-821-1942; kawhacoffee.com.
●Pane Rustica – 3225 South MacDill Avenue (Tampa); 813-902-8828; panerusticabakery.com; breakfast pastries.
●Sophie’s French Bakery & Cafe – 1633 West Snow Avenue (Tampa); 813-254-5257; sophiesbakerycafe.com; great for breakfast pastry and coffee.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Feeling Swell – 9903 Gulf Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-896-7879; feelingswellsurfbar.com.
●Hurricane – 807 Gulf Way (St. Pete Beach); 727-360-9558; thehurricane.com; have cocktail on roof and watch sun go down.
●Independent – 29 3rd Street North (St. Petersburg); 727-820-9514; independentbeer.com; candlelit beerhall with retractable glass façade.
DIVES
●Veteran’s Reef – shipwreck trio that serves as goliath grouper breeding ground.
HOTELS
●Ponce de Leon Boutique Hotel – 95 Central Avenue (St. Petersburg); 727-550-9300; poncedeleonhotel.com.
●Post Card Inn on Beach – 6300 Gulf Boulevard; 727-367- 2711 or 800-237-8918; postcardinn.com; renovated 1957 motor inn; chic and spare; right on beach; rooms closest to pool have private hammocks; 2 rooms have balconies (#s 362 and 364) that look toward beach; non-renovated bathrooms.
RESTAURANTS
●Beach Bistro – 6600 Gulf Drive (Holmes Beach); 941-778-6444; beachbistro.com; swank-ish but you can wear flip-flops; try “White Castle” slider.
●Bern’s Steak House – 1208 South Howard Avenue (Tampa); 813-251-2421; bernssteakhouse.com; down-at-heels, tacky, tatty, wonderful; regional favorite and standby since 1950s; legendary dessert array.
●Brocato’s Sandwich Shop – 5021 East Columbus Drive (Tampa); 813-248-9977; open since 1948; devil crabs like geodes.
●Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant – 95 Central Avenue (St. Petersburg); 727-209-2299; ceviche.com; Spanish food.
●Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant – 1502 South Howard Avenue (Tampa); 813-250-0203; ceviche.com; Spanish food.
●Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant – 2930 Gulf-to-Bay Boulevard (Clearwater); 727-799-3082; ceviche.com; Spanish food.
●Columbia Restaurant – 2117 East 7th Avenue (Tampa, Ybor City); 813-248-4961; columbiarestaurant.com; open since 1905; beautiful, old building with tile-work worth viewing in and of itself; try Paella a la Valenciana, Snapper Alicante, and/or Pompano en Papillot; also black bean soup and fried ripe plantains; must order flan (made Cuban-style with sweetened condensed milk).
●Duffy’s Tavern – 5808 Marina Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-2501; duffystavernami.com; hamburgers named among best in country in 1989; don’t ask for French fries and no credit cards or attitude.
●Michelle Faedo’s Sandwich Shop – 3609 North 15th Street (Ybor City); 813-247-3020; devilcrab.com; must order devil crabs; also has great Cuban sandwiches.
●Mr. Empanada – 3953 West Kennedy Boulevard (Tampa); 813-872-6233; mrempanada.com; crab empanadas.
●Mr. Empanada – 4836 North Armenia Avenue (Tampa); 813-879-6232; mrempanada.com; crab empanadas.
●Mr. Empanada – 7541 West Hillsborough Avenue (Tampa); 813-249-6233; mrempanada.com; crab empanadas.
●Feeling Swell – 9903 Gulf Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-896-7879; feelingswellsurfbar.com.
●Ginny’s & Jane E’s – 9807 Gulf Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-8203; café and bakery.
●Kahwa Cafe – 204 2nd Avenue South (St. Petersburg); 727-821-1942; kawhacoffee.com.
●Neyda’s Buy & Fly Café – 540 South 50th Street; 813-248-8816; Jamaican beef patties, fried chicken gizzards, yucca fritters, and devil crabs; this is convenience store.
●Pane Rustica – 3225 South MacDill Avenue (Tampa); 813-902-8828; panerusticabakery.com; Italian bakery that also serves lunch and supper; also, late night desserts.
●Paninoteca – 519 North Franklin Street (Tampa); 813-341-2525; paninotecacafe.com; light Mediterranean fare.
●Pipo’s Cafe – 11417 North Dale Mabry Highway; 813-963-7476; pipos.com; Cuban food; try ropa vieja, black bean soup, and deviled crab.
●Pipo’s Cafe – 411 South McDill Avenue; 813-871-5252; pipos.com; Cuban food; try ropa vieja, black bean soup, and deviled crab.
●Pipo’s Cafe – 3501 North Armenia Avenue; 813-876-7476; pipos.com; Cuban food; try ropa vieja, black bean soup, and deviled crab.
●Rod & Reel – 875 North Shore Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-1885; 2-story restaurant, at end of pier; insider sunset spot and local knowledge about beaches.
●Sandbar – 100 Spring Avenue (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-0444; sandbar-restaurant.com; good fried seafood and outdoor seating.
●Sign of Mermaid – 9707 Gulf Drive (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-9399; signofthemermaid.com; in 1913 cottage; seafood and baked goods.
●Skinny’s Place – 3901 Gulf Drive North (Anna Maria Island); 941-778-7769; burgers.
●Sophie’s French Bakery & Cafe – 1633 West Snow Avenue (Tampa); 813-254-5257; sophiesbakerycafe.com; quiches, salads, and sandwiches.
●Star Fish Co. – 12306 46th Avenue West (Anna Maria Island); 941-794-1243; starfishcompany.com; fish market and restaurant.
●La Teresita – 3248 West Columbus Drive (Tampa); 813-879-9704; lateresitarestaurant.com; Cuban-Spanish; open extra late for Cuban sandwiches.
●West Tampa Sandwich Shop – 3904 North Armenia Avenue; 813-873-7104; westtampasandwichshop.com; great roast pork and ham sandwiches; also, huge devil crabs.
SHOPPING
●Cacciatore & Sons – 3614 North Armenia Avenue; 813-872-7255; cacciatoreandsons.com; specialty groceries.
●Greiner’s – 117 East Whiting Street (Tampa); 813-226-3207; greinersclothing.com; men’s wear.
●Inkwood Books – 216 South Armenia Avenue (Tampa); 813-253-2638; inkwoodbooks.com; independent bookseller.
●Mesh – 689 Central Avenue (St. Petersburg); meshshowroom.com; high-end contemporary furnishings.
●La Segunda Central Bakery – 2512 North 15th Street (Ybor City); 813-248-1531; lasegundabakery.com; purchase palmetto-leaf-topped Cuban bread.
●Sunshine Thrift Store – 4304 South Dale Mabry Highway (Tampa); 813-831-4377; sunshinethrift.com; vintage wear.
SIGHTS & SITES
●Florida Museum of Photographic Arts – 200-400 North Ashley Drive (Tampa); 813-221-2222; fmopa.org; occupies 2nd & 3rd floors architecturally significant Cube adjacent to Rivergate Tower in downtown.
●Fred Howard Park – 1700 Sunset Drive (Tarpon Springs); 727-943-4081; pinellascounty.org/park/06_howard.htm; 155 acres on Gulf; mile-long causeway links main park area with white, sandy beach; worth special trip.
●Lettuce Lake Park – 6920 East Fletcher Avenue (Tampa); 813-987-6204; hillsboroughcounty.org; just outside city limits between I-75 and University of South Florida; features several boardwalks that wind through various Florida ecosystems; fresh water wetland and flood plain, oak-dominated hardwood forest, cypress domes, and Hillsborough River; visitor’s center, observation tower, nature trails, picnic tables, barbecue pits, restrooms, open play field, and playground; wear mosquito repellant and do NOT pick up shells (bacteria issue).
●Museum of Science & Industry – 4801 East Fowler Avenue (Tampa); 813-987-6000; mosi.org.
●Henry B. Plant Museum – 401 West Kennedy Boulevard (Tampa); 813-254-1891; plantmuseum.com; south wing Plant Hall on University of Tampa campus; formerly Tampa Bay Hotel, 500+ room resort hotel opened in 1891 by Henry B. Plant near rail line terminus; exhibits focus on Tampa’s Gilded Age lifestyle; hosts annual Victorian Christmas Stroll.
●River Walk – starts off Beneficial & Channelside Drives’ intersection and culminates off Cass Street (Tampa); 813-731-4508; thetampariverwalk.com; phased open space and pedestrian trail development along Hillsborough River; travels along Tampa Arts District and includes Curtis Hixon Park, Tampa Museum of Art, Glazer Children’s Museum, Rivergate Tower, and adjacent atrium containing Florida Museum of Photographic Arts; extends to Channelside District and is slated to connect up with part of Tampa Heights; long term goal is to complete continuous 2.4 mile path.
●Salvador Dali Museum – 1 Dali Boulevard (St. Petersburg); 727-823-3767; salvadordalimuseum.org.
●Studio@620 – 620 1st Avenue (St. Petersburg); studio620.org; performance art as well as traditional art.
●Tampa Museum of Art – 120 West Gasparilla Plaza (Tampa); 813-274-8130; tampamuseum.org; 20th Century fine art, as well as Etruscan, Greek, and Roman antiquities; on Tampa’s Riverwalk and Waterfront Arts District.
●Tampa Theater – 711 North Franklin Street (Tampa); 813-274-8981; tampatheatre.org; renovated 1926 movie theater that still plays Wurlitzer organ before shows.
●Waterfront Arts District – along River Walk (Tampa); tampasdowntown.com/live/district-areas/river-arts.aspx.
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