Monday, August 20, 2012


(Includes Firminy)

Terre Adelice – 1 Place de la Baleine; 011-33-4-7803-5184;; artisanal ice creams.

L’Antiquaire – 20 Rue Hippolyte Flandrin; 011-33-6-3421-5465;; American jazz bar; bow-tied bartenders serve seasonal cocktails.
Ayers Rock Boat – 17 Quai Victor Augagneur; 011-33-4-7284-9890;
Docks – 40 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7840-4040;; industrial chic lounge-restaurant that turns into nightclub around midnight.
Rue Le Bec – 43 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7892-8787;; sprawling restaurant and wine bar in gentrifying dock area.
Soda – 7 Rue de la Martiniere; 011-33-4-7839-0666;; dark, plush den; cocktails.

All Seasons Part Dieu – 54 Rue de la Villette; 011-33-4-7268-2540;; 99 non-smoking rooms, bar and brasserie.
Cour de Loges – 2-8 Rue du Bœuf; 011-33-04-7277-4444;
DockOuest – 39 Rue des Docks; 011-33-4-7822-3434;; design hotel with 43 rooms; suites outfitted by Ligne Roset; “concocted” by Paul Bocuse.
Hotel du Simplon – 11 Rue Duhamel; 011-33-4-7837-4100;; cozy, clean, and cute; 2 stars; 1 block from train station, in historic city center; breakfast included.

Do Mo – 45 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-3723-0923;; industrial space with light-bulbs shaped like water droplets; French-Japanese menu; tables with mini-grills allow diners to cook meal.
Docks – 40 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7840-4040;; industrial chic lounge-restaurant that turns into nightclub around midnight.
La Famille – 18 Rue Duviard (Croix-Rousse); 011-33-4-7298-8390;; have to take train out to this suburb, now home to many trendy shops, etc.; this particular location, not so trendy; good food for reasonable price.
Au 14 Fevrier – 6 Rue Mourguet; 011-33-4-7892-9139;; tiny jewel-box restaurant; French-Japanese restaurant; Michelin star.
Magalie et Martin – 11 Rue des Augustins; 011-33-4-7200-8801;; must have reservations; run by Austrian-French couple; quietly stylish; rustic food.
Ouest Express – 41 Rue des Docks; 011-33-4-7217-9595;; Paul Bocuse; average food but excellent vichyssoise and deep-fried chicken nuggets.
Pain & Cie – 13 Rue Quatre Chapeaux; 011-33-4-7838-2984;; chain but very good.
La Passagere – 21 Quai Victor Augagneur; 011-33-4-7273-3698; boat cafe; good place for drink.
Le Petit Flore – 19 Rue du Garet; 011-33-4-7827-2751;; open since 1976; bouchon (place that serves offal-based fare); exudes simple honesty; do not have to eat offal.
Rue Le Bec – 43 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7892-8787;; sprawling restaurant and wine bar in gentrifying dock area.
Restaurant Tetedoie – Montee du Chemin Neuf; 011-33-4-7829-4010;; futuristic establishment high above town on Fourviere Hill; slate floors, concrete walls, and floor-to-ceiling windows; Michelin-starred chef who has started this new enterprise.

Blue Mustach Shop – Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue Rene Leynaud (La Croix Rousse); 011-33-6-8393-2928;; t-shirts.
Cote Desserts – Quai St.-Antoine & Quai des Celestins (Marche St.-Antoine); 011-33-4-7845-1945; excellent quince tarts.
Jouvray – Quai St.-Antoine & Quai des Celestins (Marche St.-Antoine); 011-33-4-7401-1685; cheeses.
Marche St.-Antoine – Quai St.-Antoine & Quai des Celestins; outdoor market.
Marechal – 102 Cours Lafayette; 011-33-4-7862-3677;; cheese stall; try St.-Marcellin.
Morgan Kirch – Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue Rene Leynaud (La Croix Rousse); 011-33-6-2601-2558;; women’s wear.
Rue Le Bec – 43 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7892-8787;; renovated warehouse complex that includes this laid-back, market-style location next to bakery and green grocer; perfect for takeout.

Cathedral of St.-Jean-Baptiste – 8 Place St.-Jean; 011-33-4-7854-7621;; check out gargoyles, etc.; interior contains towering astronomical clock.
Gare TGV Lyon Saint-Exupery – Colombier-Saugnieu; 011-33-4-7277-6969;; striking Calatrava architecture; worth seeing.
Les Halles – 102 Cours Lafayette;; across Rhone River, in Part-Dieu; modern city center; food marketplace.
Institut Lumiere – 25 Rue du Premier Film; 011-33-4-7878-1895;; Lumiere Brothers’ Art Nouveau mansion now museum that shows their original films; next door, their former factory is theater that shows international film classics.
Musee d’Art Contemporain de Lyon – 81 Quai Charles de Gaulle (Cite Internationale); 011-33-4-7269-1717;; Art Deco building modified by Renzo Piano; top notch contemporary shows.
Musee de la Civilisation Gallo-Romaine – 17 Rue Cleberg; 011-33-4-7238-4930;
Parc de la Tete d’Or – 1 Boulevard du 11 Novembre 1918; 011-33-4-7282-3500;; located on Rhone River banks; ​​105 hectares with 7 entry gates; most notable gate is Door of Children of Rhone, which opens onto 16-hectare lake; vast lawns alternate with groves over century old; flower beds (roses and peonies); among France’s largest and most beautiful urban parks; Rose Garden Internationale de Lyon covers 40K square meters and has 30K roses (350 varieties); also 2 other rose gardens (Rose Garden of Botanical Garden, which traces rose history, and rose garden that supports International Competition of New Roses; park encompasses more than 8.8K trees (Cedars of Lebanon, tulip trees, gingko biloba, bald cypress); by 1857, Botanical Garden of Lyon (created in 1796 on Croix-Rousse slopes) transferred to Parc de la Tete d’Or; largest botanical garden in municipal France; 8 hectares of which 6.5K square meters of greenhouses.
Quai de la Pecherie – known for old and rare booksellers, as well as postcards, records, etc.
RBC Lyon – 42 Quai Rambaud; 011-33-4-7204-2525; rbcmobilier; 10K square foot showroom for modern furniture; architecturally fascinating structure (large orange cube with apparent bite taken from it).
Rhone Rive Gauche – from Gerland district to Parc de la Tete d’Or; or; start at reflecting pools on Quai Claude Bernard and head north; along Quai Victor Augagneur, check posters for floating nightclubs; beyond Pont Wilson, boat-café, La Passagere, is cozy spot for hot chocolate; from there, walk to Parc de la Tete d’Or.
Saint-Pierre Church – Place du Mail, 1, Rue des Noyers (Firminy);; Le Corbusier and José Oubrerie were unusual collaborators on Eglise St.-Pierre de Firminy, whose design took 43 years to complete in Loire Valley.
Village des Createurs – Passage Thiaffait, 19 Rue Rene Leynaud (La Croix Rousse); 011-33-4-7827-3721;; alley of local design boutiques.

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