Monday, August 20, 2012

MONTPELLIER

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
L’Heure Bleue – 1 Rue Carbonnerie; 011-33-4-6766-4105; facebook.com/pages/le-Dressing-de-lHeure-Bleue/158002687622705; cozy tearoom decorated in 19th Century, British drawing room style; also coffees and pastries.
La Muse Gourmette – Avenue Samuel de Champlain (Antigone, Sunday Farmers’ Market); 011-33-6-8403-1227; baked goods, including gluten free.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Black Sheep – 21 Boulevard Louis Blanc; 011-33-4-6758-0865; theblackshep.fr; airy ground floor bar with live music; extensive beer list.
Brasserie de l’Hotel de Ville – 80 Place Georges Freche; 011-33-4-6785-2296; bdhv-montpellier.com; pleasant spot to eat or have drink while admiring new City Hall.
Papa Doble – 6 Rue du Petit Scel; 011-33-4-6755-6666; papadoble.fr; stylish, underground bar; Hemmingway shrine; try Caribbean Julep or Tokyo Society.
La Robe Rouge – 3 Place St. Ravy; 011-33-9-5024-9189; laroberouge.fr; small modern space; candlelit wine bar.



HOTELS
Baudon de Mauny – 1 Rue de la Carbonnerie; 011-33-4-6702-2177; baudondemauny.com; housed in 18th Century town house with 5 rooms done in impeccable taste.
Courtyard Marriott – 105 Place Georges Freche; 011-33-4-9954-7400; marriott.com/mplcy; new, sleek, 123-rooms; next to new City Hall; heated outdoor pool; Mediterranean restaurant.
Jardin des Sens – 11 Avenue Saint-Lazare; 011-33-4-9958-3838; jardindessens.com.



RESTAURANTS
L’Atelier Gourmand – 17 Avenue du Pont Juvenal; 011-33-4-9951-7523; lateliergourmand-montpellier.com; design emporium and gastronomic temple; modern menu; 3-course dinner is great deal; great desserts (e.g., warm liquid dark chocolate in highball, served with chilled white chocolate with raspberry jelly).
Les Bains – 6 Rue Richelieu; 011-33-4-6760-7087; les-bains-de-montpellier.com; former 18th Century bathhouse; now classic brasserie nestled in warren of cozy rooms; focus on seafood.
Brasserie de l’Hotel de Ville – 80 Place Georges Freche; 011-33-4-6785-2296; bdhv-montpellier.com; pleasant spot to eat or have drink while admiring new City Hall.
Jardin des Sens – 11 Avenue Saint-Lazare; 011-33-4-9958-3838; jardindessens.com.
La Morue – 23 Rue du Palais des Guilhem; 011-33-4-6752-8262; boathouse-chic, tiny restaurant; unfussy seafood; lots of cod.



SERVICES
Trams #3-4 – Moulares Station; montpellier-agglo.com/tam/index2.php; Christian Lacroix designed Tram Nos. 3 & 4; take number 3 to arrive next to Hotel de Ville (city hall).



SHOPPING
En Traits Libres – 2 Rue du Bayle (L’Ecusson); 011-33-4-3411-3843; entraitslibres.blogspot.com; underground comic shop; expect to run into Robert Crumb, who lives in area; t-shirts, etc.
Establissement Martin et Fils – 22 Boulevard Du Jeu De Paume or Avenue Samuel de Champlain (Antigone, Sunday Farmers’ Market); 011-33-8-9910-0017 or 011-33-6-1354-7378; dried meats.
L’Heure Bleue – 1 Rue Carbonnerie; 011-33-4-6766-4105; facebook.com/pages/le-Dressing-de-lHeure-Bleue/158002687622705; cozy tearoom decorated in 19th Century, British drawing room style; knick-knacks
Metropolitan – 30 Rue Foch (L’Ecusson); 011-33-4-6767-1870; metropolitan-ad.com; art gallery and home decor shop.
No Comment – 47 Rue de l’Aiguillerie (L’Ecusson); 011-33-4-6760-8591; leather designer Marc Jaillot’s shop.
Pierre Vives Building – 907 Rue du Professeur Blayac; 011-33-4-6767-3000; herault.pierresvives.fr; opening to public (shared spaces, such as balcony, gallery, and lobby), Tuesday-Saturday from 10-19; designed by Zaha Hadid; called City (or Tree) of Knowledge and sport; as name suggests, multicultural city; contains city archives and library, fitness center, exhibition gallery, and amphitheater.
RBC Design Center – 609 Avenue Raymond Dugrand; 011-33-4-676-0750; rbcmobilier.com; designed by Jean Nouvel and Francois Fontes; coolly modernist structure; houses furniture showroom.



SIGHTS & SITES
Cite Internationale de la Danse (Agora) – 18 Rue Sainte Ursule; 011-33-4-6760-8360; mathildemonnier.com; modern dance company housed in former 1641 convent.
L’Ecusson – Montpellier’s historical core; among France’s largest pedestrian zones; twisting Baroque, Medieval, 19th Century, and Renaissance passages.
Hotel de Ville de Montpellier – 1 Place Georges Freche; 011-33-4-6734-7000; montpellier.fr; blue, cube-like Jean Nouvel modernist structure.
Marche Paysan Antigone – Avenue Samuel de Champlain (Antigone); marchepaysanantigone.free.fr; farmers’ market open Sunday mornings.
Musee Fabre – 39 Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle; 011-33-4-6714-8300; museefabre.fr; from Dutch masters to abstract.
Opera House – Place de la Comedie; 011-33-4-6760-1999; opera-montpellier.com.
Parc Marianne – between historic city and Millennium Business centers; montpellier.fr/567-parc-marianne.htm; 20-acre park with extensive bike paths and pedestrian routes.
Pierre Vives Building – Paillade, Malbosc, and Alco junction; herault.fr/culture/archives-departementales; by architect Zaha Hadid; long, sprawling structure of swirly white concrete layers and green-tinted glass; will hold archives, library, and municipal offices.
RBC Design Center – 609 avenue Raymond Dugrand 34000 Montpellier Contact : TRISTAN Tel. +33(0)4 67 024 024; rbcmobilier.com/fr/Showrooms/Design-Center-Montpellier/Accueil; architect Jean Nouvel’s 9-story building (includes bookstore, exhibition space, and showroom); features museum-like interior divided vertically by central “canyon”; setup unfolds (in absence of solid walls) behind metallic mesh.

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