Monday, July 21, 2014


(includes Chapel Hill, Durham, Pittsboro, Raleigh & Wilson)

Counter Culture Coffee – 4911 South Alston Avenue (Durham); 919-361-5282;; open Friday mornings only for public “cuppings.”
Loaf – 111 West Parrish Street (Durham); 919-797-1254;; baked goods & coffee; notable for cumin gruyere loves.
Parlour – 117 Market Street (Durham); 919-627-7235;; homeade ice cream; try ice cream sandwiches, made with soft chocolate chip cookies and salted butter caramel ice cream.
Rue Cler – 401 East Chapel Hill Street (Durham); 919-682-8844;; bakery, café, and Parisian restaurant.
Scratch Bakery – 111 Orange Street (Durham); 919-956-5200;; bakery famous for pies.

Clockwork – 519 West North Street; 919-834-2211;; decor & patterns on wall stunning; huge gold statues & furniture are icing on cake; phenomenal cocktails with 70s theme.
Fox Liquor Bar – 237 South Wilmington Street (Raleigh); 919-322-0127;; boozy speakeasy.
Fullsteam Brewery – 726 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-682-2337;; cavernous bar; sit at picnic tables; food trucks nearby offer snacks.
Kotuku Surf Club – 703 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-294-9661;; notwithstanding name, no-frills, simple bar.
Mandolin Raleigh – 2519 Fairview Road (Raleigh); 919-322-0365;; cocktails.
Motorco Music Hall – 723 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-901-0875;; garage bar & music venue.
Whiskey – 347 West Main Street (Durham); 919-682-6191;; smoky speakeasy.

American Meltdown – 207 Conner Drive (Chapel Hill); 516-317-8395;; try Pigs & Figs sandwich.
Chirba Chirba Dumplings – Durham; 919-885-4328;; pork-filled buns.

Fearrington House – 2000 Fearrington Village Center (Pittsboro); 919-542-2121 or 800-277-0130;; English country hotel with French restaurant.
Durham – 315 East Chapel Hill Street; 919- or.
King’s Daughters’ Inn – 204 North Buchanan Boulevard (Durham); 919-354-7000;; building dates to 1920s; adjacent to Duke campus; 17 room boutique.
21C Durham – 111 North Corcoran Street; 919-956-6700 or 844-301-4629;
Washington Duke Inn & Golf Club – 3001 Cameron Boulevard (Durham); 919-490-0999;; grandest place in town; in English countrystyle.

Los Comales – 2103 North Roxboro Street (Durham); 919-220-1614;; authentic so down-at-heels; excellent agua frescas.
Counting House – 111 North Corcoran Street (at 21C Durham Hotel); 919-956-6760;
Crook’s Corner – 610 West Franklin Street (Chapel Hill); 919-929-7643;; in May, hope for Honeysuckle Sorbet.
Dame’s Chicken & Waffles – 317 West Main Street (Durham); 919-682-9235;; try Quilted Buttercup (fried chicken, sweet potato waffles, and maple-pecan butter schmear) & Triple Mac & Cheese.
Eno Restaurant & Market – 101 City Hall Plaza (Durham); 919-426-1622;; organic and biodynamic produce and meat from Holcomb’s farm.
Guglhupf – 2706 Durham-Chapel Hill Boulevard, #1 (Durham); 919-401-2600;; Bavarian brunch.
Lantern – 423 West Franklin Street (Chapel Hill); 919-969-8846;; Asian-Thai; considered by locals to be Chapel Hill’s best restaurant.
Magnolia Grill – 1002 9th Street (Durham); 919-286-3609;; #11 in Gourmet’s top American restaurants.
Mandolin Raleigh – 2519 Fairview Road (Raleigh); 919-322-0365;; new Southern cuisine.
Only Burger – 3710 Shannon Road (Durham); 919-937-9377;; highly regarded; also operates food truck.
Parker & Otis – 112 South Duke Street (Durham); 919-683-3200;; café and upscale foodie grocery.
Parker’s Barbecue – 2514 US Highway 301 South (Wilson); 252-237-0972; among country’s best BBQ restaurants.
Poole’s Diner – 426 South McDowell Street (Raleigh); 919-832-4477; high-end, diner-reminiscent food; try chess pie.
Revolution – 107 West Main Street (Durham); 919-956-9999;; squash tamales, macarpone gnocchi, and tuni with wasabi caviar.
Rose’s Meat Market & Sweet Shop – 121 North Gregson Street; 919-797-2233;; get lunch special AND dessert.
Rue Cler – 401 East Chapel Hill Street (Durham); 919-682-8844;; bakery, café, and Parisian restaurant.
Sandwich – 431 West Franklin Street, #16 (Chapel Hill); 919-929-2114‎;; try grass-fed beef meatloaf with crispy bacon and balsamic glaze.
Scratch – 111 Orange Street (Durham); 919-956-5200;; sunny bakery-café; both savory and sweet pies.
Toast – 345 West Main Street (Durham); 919-683-2183;; Italian sandwich shop.
Zely & Ritz – 301 Glenwood Avenue (Raleigh); 919-828-0018;; slow-food.

Synergy Spa – 2603 Glenwood Ave, #121C (Raleigh); 919-510-5130;; day spa.

Curatory – 319 West Martin Street (Raleigh); 919-917-8969;; jeans.
Durham Farmers’ Market – 501 Foster Street (Durham); 919-667-3099;; takes over pavilion at recently cleaned up Durham Central Park on Saturday mornings; seek out Loaf bakery stall, or Monuts Donuts.
Horse & Buggy Press – 401-B1 Foster Street (Durham); 919-949-4847;; in-house graphic design products.
LabourLove Gallery – 807 East Main Street (Durham); 919-373-4451;; glass, stone, and wood artworks.
Liberty Arts Gallery – 923 Franklin Street (Durham); 919-682-2673;; paintings & photography.
Niche Gardens – 1111 Dawson Road (Chapel Hill); 919-967-0078;; elegant nursery worth special trip.
Parker & Otis – 112 South Duke Street (Durham); 919-683-3200;; café and upscale foodie grocery.
Upfront Gallery – 401-B1 Foster Street (Durham); 919-949-4847;; local arts samplings; quirky.
Vert & Vogue – 905 West Main Street (Durham), #24b; 919-251-8537;; boutique in renovated tobacco warehouse; men’s wear.

Carolina Theater – 309 West Morgan Street (Durham); 919-560-3030;; classic, documentary, and indie movies.
Coker Arboretum – University of North Carolina, CB #3375, Totten Center (Chapel Hill); 919-962-0522;; shaded walkways in peaceful sanctuary on UNC campus.
Duke Chapel – 401 Chapel Drive (Durham); 919-681-9488;; gothic and stately.
Sara B. Duke Gardens – 420 Anderson Street (Durham); 919-684-3698;; 55 manicured acres.
Durham Performing Arts Center – 123 Vivian Street (Durham); 919-688-3722;
Fearrington Gardens – 2000 Fearrington Village Center (Pittsboro); 919-542-2121 (for private tours);
Magic Wings Butterfly House – 433 Murray Avenue (Durham); 919-220-5429;; part of North Carolina Museum of Life and Science; 100s butterflies fluttering under cathedral-like ceilings at conservatory; 20K square feet.
Manbites Dog Theater – 703 Foster Street (Durham); 919-682-4974;
Nasher Museum of Art – 2001 Campus Drive (Durham); 919-684-5135;; several modern, monolithic structures; focus is on contemporary art.
North Carolina Museum of Art – 2110 Blue Ridge Road (Raleigh); 919-839-6262;

Sunday, July 20, 2014


Bars & Nightclubs
Smiley’s Schooner Saloon – 41 Wharf Road; 415-868-1311;; established 1851.

Il Fornaio – 223 Corte Madera Town Center; 415-927-4400;; Italian.

Good Earth Natural Foods – 720 Center Boulevard; 415-454-0123;; grocery store opened in 1969; stocks mostly natural or organic foods; designated area in front for chatting, drinking, eating, and sitting.

Bars & Nightclubs
Farley Bar – Cavallo Point, Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700; does not live up to promise.

Cavallo Point – Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700 or 888-651-2003;; 68 rooms in restored officers’ quarters (older nostalgia, some with gas fireplaces); 74 rooms in new buildings; new rooms have unparalleled views; spa; restaurant, Murray Circle, and bar, Farley Bar do not live up to promise.

Murray Circle – Cavallo Point, Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700; does not live up to promise.

Sights & Sites
Fort Baker – Bunker Road (Golden Gate National Recreation Area); 415-375-8281 (cell phone tour);; call for walking tour info.

Manka’s Inverness Lodge – 30 Callendar Way; 415-669-1034;; wondrous collection of estates from early 1900s; main property holds 2 redwood cabins, annex, and old fishing-hunting lodge, all of which look like something out of Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale; 16' ceilings, wide plank floors, views over Tomales Bay, and spaciousness lend rooms in converted 1991 boathouse loftlike feel; cabins have double-ended tubs and private outdoor showers opening up to sky; 3- or 4-course fireside supper or private chef's meal (in their own accommodation); all ingredients farmed, fished, gathered, and/or grown within reach of lodge.
Osprey Peak Bed & Breakfast – 10 Miwak Way (Inverness); 415-669-1467;; farmhouse-like inn (ryokan); near Point Reyes.

Saltwater Oyster Depot – 12781 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard; 415-669-1244;; Luc Chamberland’s new cafe.

Bars & Nightclubs
Buckeye Roadhouse – 15 Shoreline Highway; 415-331-2600;; Aspen-like lodge with fireplace.

Muir Beach – Highway 1; 415-388-2596;; beach closed to visitors from July 7 through November.

Acqua Hotel – 555 Redwood Highway; 415-380-0400 or 888-662-9555;
Mill Valley Inn – 165 Throckmorton Avenue; 415-389-6608 or 800-276-7415;

Balboa Cafe – 38 Miller Avenue; 415-381-7321;
Buckeye Roadhouse – 15 Shoreline Highway; 415-331-2600;; Aspen-like lodge with fireplace; notable for prime rib.
El Paseo – 17 Throckmorton Avenue; 415-388-0741;; open since 1947; owned by Tyler Florence and Sammy Hagar; French steakhouse.
Tamalpie Pizza – 477 Miller Avenue; 415-388-7437;; eat-in or take-out; hand-crafted pizzas and salads; high-end.

Sights & Sites
West Point Inn – 100 Old Railroad Grade Fire Road; 415-388-9955;; 2 hour hike from Mill Valley up crooked railroad right-of-way; secluded among trees on Mt. Tamalpais upper south slope; once stopover for “Crookedest Railroad in World” passengers, up from Mill Valley; now haven for hikers; sweeping panoramic view includes East Bay, San Francisco, Marin Headlands, 1 Golden Gate Bridge tower, and out over Pacific Ocean.

Hilltop 1892 – 850 Lamont Avenue; 415-893-1892;; Michelin-recommended.

POINT REYES (includes Bolinas, Marshall, Olema, Point Reyes, Point Reyes Station & Stinson Beach)

Nick’s Cove & Cottages – 23240 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-1033;; on skinny, Point Reyes peninsula; 5 waterfront cottages on pristine Tomales Bay; try to get “Big Rock” cabin; some room service.
Olema Inn & Restaurant – 10,000 Sir Frances Drake Boulevard (Olema); 415-663-9559;; near Point Reyes; opened on July 4, 1876, lost as gambling debt, and survived 1906 earthquake (Olema was epicenter); today combines modern luxuries with antique furniture and light fixtures; views are of beautiful back garden – wedding site – and Olema Valley; stroll on stone pathways behind inn to orchard and flower gardens; try to reserve #3 – quietest room, overlooking garden.
Breakers Café – 3465 Highway 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-2002;; great breakfast, brunch and lunch spot; huge bloody marys with extravagant garnishes, fresh local produce, and wood-burning stove.
Hog Island Oyster Co. – 20215 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-9218;; sit outside at picnic tables with estuary views; oysters only (barbecued or raw), with crackers or bread; beer and wine.
Nick’s Cove – 23240 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-1033;; on bay; chowder house.
Olema Inn & Restaurant – 10000 Sir Frances Drake Boulevard (Olema); 415-663-9559;; romantic candle-lit restaurant; features local produce and meats; try Bellwether Farms ricotta gnocchi with pine nuts and sage brown butter, duck confit and apple ravioli in sherry reduction, and/or grilled, center-cut Niman Ranch pork chop with cider glaze; much produce grown at inn’s organic garden and orchard.
Osteria Stellina – 11285 Highway 1 North (Point Reyes); 415-663-9988;; elegantly yet simply furnished; attentive service; comfort and modern American cuisine.
Sand Dollar Restaurant – 3458 California 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-0434;; expansive deck; sometimes has live music.

Epicenter – 9960 California 1 North (Olema); 415-663-1239; hippie women’s wear.
Gallery Route One – 11101 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1347;; alternative art gallery.
Point Reyes Books – 11315 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1542;
Spirit Matters – 12307 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-8699;; eclectic boutique selling “oddities and deities”; found materials used in garden and store; books, incense, etc.
Toby’s Feed Barn – 11250 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1223;; general store.
Vita Collage – 11101 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1160;; home accessories boutique.
Zuma – 11265 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1748; ethnic handicrafts and jewelry.

Sights & Sites
Bolinas Art Museum – 48 Wharf Road (Bolinas); 415-868-0330;
Cypress Grove Research Center – 20545 State Route 1 North (Marshall); 415-663-8203;; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.
Martin Griffin Preserve (formerly Bolinas Lagoon Preserve) – 4900 Shoreline Highway 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-9244;; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.
Point Reyes National Seashore – 1 Bear Valley Road (Point Reyes Station); 415-464-5100;; 71K-acre park preserve located on Point Reyes Peninsula; nationally important nature preserve within which existing agricultural uses allowed to continue (historic ranching and oyster farming); beaches listed as cleanest in state in 2010; worth special trip for walk to lighthouse.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Arizmendi Bakery – 1002 4th Street; 415-456-4093;; worker-managed, cooperative bakery specializing in breads and morning pastries; closed Mondays.
Double Rainbow – 860 4th Street; 415-457-0803;; old-fashioned location (on Main-ish Street) and old-fashioned touches (stools at soda fountain), but funky modern vibe; generous portions of ice cream in large variety flavors.

Arizmendi Bakery – 1002 4th Street; 415-456-4093;; worker-managed, cooperative bakery; pizza; closed Mondays.
Double Rainbow – 860 4th Street; 415-457-0803;; old-fashioned location (on Main-ish Street) and old-fashioned touches (stools at soda fountain), but funky modern breakfast and lunch.
Sol Food La Bodega – 903 Lincoln Avenue; 415-451-4765;; Puerto Rican.

Masterweavers – 901 4th Street; 415-455-9653; handwoven and machine-woven area rugs.
San Rafael Luggage Center – 871 4th Street; 415- 459-0181;; business cases, fine luggage, and travel accessories for serious travelers.

Sights & Sites
Tennessee Valley Trail – Tennessee Valley Road (in Golden Gate National Recreation Area); 415-331-1540 (Marin Headlands Visitor Center);; from Highway 101, take Mill Valley-Stinson Beach-Highway 1 exit and turn left onto Tennessee Valley Road from Shoreline Highway; follow to parking lot and trailhead; offers beautiful rugged coastline views along Marin Headlands; easy, level access to beach and ocean; 3.8 miles; can get windy.

Bars & Nightclubs
Bocce Bar – 1250 Bridgeway; 415-331-0555;; sit outside, weather permitting; primarily for wine.

Casa Madrona – 801 Bridgeway; 415-332-0502 or 800-288-0502;

Bocce Bar – 1250 Bridgeway; 415-331-0555;; sit outside, weather permitting; pizza and desserts.
Feng Nian – 2650 Bridgeway; 415-331-5300;; Chinese.
Fish Restaurant – 350 Harbor Drive; 415-331-3474;; dedicated to sustainable seafood; tiny shack on water where you eat at picnic tables; Zagat rates it 24/30.
Le Garage Bistro – 85 Liberty Ship Way; 415-332-5625;; do not be thrown by name; French food on docks.
Poggio – 777 Bridgeway (at Casa Madrona); 415-332-7771;; classic Italian trattoria food with indoor and outdoor seating; service is often hostile and sometimes nonexistent; food is worth the hassle.
Spinnaker – 100 Spinnaker Drive; 415-332-1500;; dramatic location, jutting out over water, with every table having splendid view; interior is 1970s drab; food is surprisingly good, but simple, time-honored, American dishes; seafood emphasis.

Lili’s Salon – 219 Caledonia Street; 415-332-8700;; hair, make-up, and nails.

Heath Ceramics – 400 Gate Five Road; 415-332-3732;; factory headquarters and outlet.

TIBURON (includes Belvedere Tiburon)
Lodge at Tiburon – 1651 Tiburon Boulevard; 415-435-5996;
Lodge at Tiburon – 1651 Tiburon Boulevard; 415-435-3133 or 800-762-7770;
Water’s Edge Hotel – 25 Main Street; 415-789-5999 or 888-662-9555;

Caprice – 2000 Paradise Drive; 415-435-3400;; beautiful waterfront restaurant; French.
Sam’s Anchor Cafe – 27 Main Street; 415-435-4527;; favorite waterfront restaurant.

Strawberry Village – Redwood Highway Frontage Road (US Highway 101, Tiburon Boulevard Exit; 415-388-4460, ext. 487;; high-end-ish outdoor shopping.

Sights & Sites
Angel Island State Park – San Francisco Bay (off Tiburon, from where take ferry); 415-435-5390;
Paradise Beach Park – 3450 Paradise Drive; 415-435-9212;; pier, Redwoods, sandy beach, grassy expanses; perfect for picnics.


(includes Carmel, Carmel Valley, Carmel-by-Sea, Davenport, Half Moon Bay, Jenner, Marina, Monterey, Pescadero & Princeton-by-Bay)

Big Sur Bakery & Restaurant – 47540 Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-0520;; spectacular views.
Café Kevah – 48510 California Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-2345;; coffee, baked goods, light brunches & head-spinning ocean views on its outdoor deck (closed during winter & bad weather).

Hog’s Breath Inn – San Carlos Street (Carmel, at 5th Street); 831-625-1044;; Clint Eastwood’s restaurant & property; Old West atmosphere.
Inn at Spanish Bay – 2700 17 Mile Drive (Pebble Beach); 831-647-7500 or 800-654-9300;; grab table on patio before sundown, after driving in on 17-Mile Drive.
Mission Ranch – 26270 Dolores Street (Carmel); 831-624-6436;; Clint Eastwood’s restaurant & property; on 22-acres; striking view.
Nepenthe – 48510 California Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-2345;; go at sunset for spectacular view.

Pfeiffer Beach – 9100 Sycamore Canyon Road (Big Sur, of Highway 1, in Los Padres National Forest); 805-434-1996 (Park Management);; off beaten path, but well worth drive; just south of Big Sur Station on Highway 1 on unsigned Sycamore Canyon Road, which winds down to shore; 2-mile long road is paved, twisty & narrow (look for yellow “Narrow Road” sign at turn-off); from parking area, short walk down to beach; at this location Sycamore Canyon Creek empties into Pacific & rocky point protects some of sand at cove; waves crash hard all around & beach north of here invites exploration at lower tides; focal point is Keyhole Rock, amazing natural arch; frequently professionally photographed; north end of beach has unique purple sand that comes from manganese garnet rocks in cliffs; nudists abound.
San Carlos Beach (also called Breakwater or Breakwater Cove) – Cannery Row (Monterey); 831-646-3860 (Monterey Parks Department);

Aumentos Reef – approximately 1/2 mile offshore (in Monterey Bay, offshore of Esplanade Street);; massive underwater mountain; Aumentos is Spanish for “enlargement”; reef gently slopes from about 60-120' down.
Metridium Fields – 200 yards offshore from Monterey Beach (at intersection of Cannery Row & Reeside Avenue);; named for Metridium giganteum (“Giant White Plumed Anemone”), found in abundance here; bat rays, juvenile wolf eels, ocean sunfish & bull seal lions can be seen at this location.
Outer Pinnacles – Pebble Beach (Carmel);; reefs caked with corral, marine mammals, octopus, wolf eels, etc.
Soquel Canyon State Marine Conservation Area – Monterey Submarine Canyon;; Monterey Submarine Canyon begins at Moss Landing (Monterey Bay middle) & extends 95 miles into Pacific Ocean where terminates at Monterey Canyon submarine fan, reaching depths of up to 12K'; though bottom is about 2 miles below surface, actual canyon itself about 1 mile deep, making it comparable in depth to Grand Canyon; depth & nutrient availability (due to regular nutrient-rich sediment influx) provide habitat suitable for many marine life forms; Soquel Canyon State Marine Conservation Area protects side-branch of Monterey Submarine Canyon; like underwater park, this marine protected area helps conserve ocean wildlife and marine ecosystems.
Point Lobos State Marine Reserve – 62 Route 1 (3-5 miles south of Carmel); 831-624-4909;; 10K underwater acres; California’s premier diving location; make sure to see cast of underwater reserve at Whalers’ Cove.

L’Auberge Carmel – Monte Verde Street at 7th Street (Carmel); 831-624-8578 or 800-905-5745;; stucco and wood lodge 4 blocks off Carmel Beach.
Beach House Hotel – 4100 Cabrillo Highway North (Half Moon Bay); 650-712-0220 or 800-315-9366;; nice; breakfast included.
Bernardus Lodge & Winery – 415 Carmel Valley Road (Carmel Valley); 831-659-3131 or 888-648-9463;; adobe guesthouses with fireplaces and featherbeds; private balconies with views of Saint Lucia Mountains.
Big Sur Lodge – 47225 California Highway 1 (in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park); 831-667-3100;; simple cabins are 3.5 miles from Pfeiffer Beach; cottage-style rooms have decks with views of surrounding redwood forests; some rooms add fireplaces and/or kitchens; seasonal outdoor pool, outdoor bar & free access to state park facilities & nearby hiking paths; on-site general store, coffee shop & restaurant that features organic ingredients.
Carmel Valley Ranch – 1 Old Ranch Road (Carmel Valley); 831-625-9500 or 877-583-0052;; on 500 acres; upscale resort is close to Garland Ranch Regional Park & Carmel Bay; sophisticated suites feature fireplaces & private decks, plus flat-screen TVs, free Wi-Fi, iPod docks & Keurig coffeemakers; some suites add kitchenettes or separate dining areas; spa, golf course & 9 tennis courts, plus 2 outdoor saltwater pools, gym & business center; dining options include sleek organic restaurant, grill eatery & cafe.
Cypress Inn – 7th Avenue and Lincoln Street (Carmel-by-Sea); 831-624-3871;; once co-owned by Doris Day; landmark boutique hotel since 1929.
Davenport Roadhouse – 1 Davenport Avenue (Davenport); 831-426-8801;; 8 comfortable rooms ranging from $70-210, depending on season & size.
Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn – 48865 California Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-2377;; half mile from Henry Miller Memorial Library & 4 miles from Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park; rustic inn built in 1930s & listed on National Register of Historic Places; homey, country-style rooms, cabins & houses have antique furnishings & scenic woodland views; some add amenities such as private decks, wood-burning stoves & fireplaces; select rooms share bathroom; no televisions, Internet access or phones, & no cell phone coverage on property; full-service restaurant specializes in American comfort food & wine.
Highlands Inn – 120 Highlands Drive (Carmel); 831-620-1234 or 888-591-1234;; owned by Hyatt; Monterrey pine, cypress, and redwood forest setting for stone lodge on 10 acres of hillside.
Inn at Spanish Bay – 2700 17 Mile Drive (Pebble Beach); 831-647-7500 or 800-654-9300;; 269-room inn located amid Monterey pines, next to golf course; ask for room that overlooks fire-pits so can see bagpiper who plays daily at sunset; concierge will create personalized maps for local hiking, jogging, & wine tasting.
Post Ranch Inn – Highway 1 (Big Sur, across from Ventana Inn); 831-667-2200 or 888-524-4787;; luxury resort on Pacific side of highway; views, modern architecture, spa, dining.
Ventana Inn & Spa – 48123 Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-2331 or 800-628-6500;; on hillside overlooking Pacific coastline; spacious suites and guest-rooms; rustic with thoughtful appointments; on 243 acres; pool; Japanese hot baths; dining; Allegria Spa; afternoon wine and cheese reception; daily yoga classes; Guided Discovery Walk.

L’Auberge Carmel – Monte Verde Street at 7th Street (Carmel); 831-624-8578;; stucco and wood lodge 4 blocks off Carmel Beach; tasting menu; only Michelin star between LA & San Francisco.
La Balena – Junipero Avenue (Carmel-By-Sea, between 5th & 6th); 831-250-6295;; daily changing, artisanal Italian dishes paired with wines in urbane hideaway.
Barbara’s Fish Trap – 281 Capistrano Road (Princeton-by-Bay); 650-728-7049;; on harbor; clam chowder in sour dough bowls and red snapper taco salad.
La Bicyclette Restaurant – Dolores Street (Carmel, at 7th Avenue); 831-622-9899;; rustic village bistro.
Big Sur Bakery & Restaurant – 47540 Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-0520;; spectacular views; wood-burning oven pizzas; butter-braised halibut.
Cantinetta Luca – Dolores Street (Carmel, between Ocean and 7th Avenues); 831-625-6500;; wood-fired pizza, homemade pastas, and Italian wines.
Carmel Belle – Doud Craft Studios, San Carlos Street (Carmel-by-Sea, between Ocean Avenue & San Carlos Street); 831-624-1600;; especially for breakfast.
Duarte’s Tavern – 202 Stage Road (Pescadero); 650-879-0464;; crab cioppino; good soups.
Garden Deli & Café – 356 Main Street (Half Moon Bay); 650-726-3425; custom-built, excellent sandwiches good for hiking.
Nepenthe – 48510 California Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-2345;; go at sunset for spectacular view; just-okay California cuisine (try Ambrosia burger); Orson Welles & Rita Hayworth briefly owned cabin here in 1940s.
Phil’s Fish Market – 7600 Sandholdt Road (Moss Landing); 831-633-2152;; famous for cioppino.

Adventures by Sea – 299 Cannery Row (Monterrey); 831-372-1807; rent bicycle and ride along 17-Mile Drive.
Aquarius Dive Shop – 2040 Del Monte Avenue (Monterey); 831-375-1933;; will arrange local diving.
Bernardus Lodge – 415 Carmel Valley Road (Carmel); 831-658-3500;; spa.
Elkhorn Slough Safari Nature Tours – 8022 Moss Landing Road (Moss Landing); 831-633-5555;; guided tours.

Bruno’s Market & Deli – 6th Street (Carmel-by-Sea, at Junipero Avenue); 831-624-3821;; gourmet sandwiches.
Carmel Drug Store – Ocean Avenue (Carmel, at San Carlos Street); 831-624-3819;; handmade Swiss combs & grandma colognes; open since 1919.
Cheese Shop – Carmel Plaza, Ocean Avenue (Carmel, at Junipero Avenue); 831-625-2272 or 800-828-9463;; picnic fixings.
Parsonage Winery Tasting Room – 19 E Carmel Valley Road (Carmel Valley); 831-659-7322;
Trouve – San Carlos Street (Carmel, at 6th Avenue); 831-625-9777;; modern house wares & global antiques.
Steven Whyte Studio – Dolores Street (Carmel, between 5th and 6th Avenues); 831-620-1917;; local sculptor’s working studios.

Año Nuevo State Park – New Years Creek Road (Pescadero); 650-879-0227 or 800-444-4445;; elephant seal breeding grounds (mid-December-March); park interprets and protects pinniped rookeries and significant wildlife habitats on Año Nuevo Island and mainland; also sensitive native dunes and coastal terrace prairie habitats; diverse inland plant communities, including old growth forest, freshwater marsh, red alder riparian forest and knobcone pine forest; 4 perennial streams support steelhead trout and coho salmon; wetlands are habitat to San Francisco garter snake and red-legged frog; cultural resources include native California Indian Ohlone occupation remnants and 19th Century Cascade Ranch and historic Steele Ranch structures.
Devil’s Slide – stretch of Highway 1 (actually, north of Big Sur, soon to close); take Great Highway south alongside Ocean Beach, following signs for 35-Skyline Boulevard/Highway 1/Cabrillo Highway South, toward Pacifica).
Elkhorn Slough – 1700 Elkhorn Road (Watsonville); 831-728-2822;; for birdwatching & kayaking.
Fort Ord Dunes State Park – Beach Range Road (Marina); 831-649-2836;; call 831-998-9458, #204 for wildlife migration (e.g., whales) information; has 1K acres, gorgeous Monterey Bay panoramas, boardwalk and viewing platform, and 1.5 foot trail that leads down to 4-mile beach stretch.
Garrapata State Park – Highway 1 (Carmel, 6.7 miles south of Rio Road in Carmel & 18 miles north of Big Sur); 831-624-4909;; 2 miles beach front, with coastal hiking & 50' climb to Pacific Ocean view; diverse coastal vegetation with trails running from ocean beaches into dense redwood groves; outstanding coastal headlands at Soberanes Point; sea lions, harbor seals & sea otters; California gray whales pass close by during yearly migration.
Mid-Peninsula Regional Open Space District – Half Moon Bay;; Purisima Creek Redwoods is among most popular trails; also try Lobitos Ridge.
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park – Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-2315;; main feature is McWay Falls, which drops over 80' cliff into Pacific Ocean; home to 300' redwoods over 2.5K years old.
Monterey Bay Aquarium – 886 Cannery Row (Monterey); 831-648-4800;
Pesadero Drive – take Stage Road from Pescadero’s main street to San Gregorio’s crossroads; beautiful, hilly country to coast.
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park – 47225 California Highway 1; 831-667-2315;; approximately 1,006 acres centered on Big Sur River; nicknamed “mini Yosemite”; has both hotel (Big Sur Lodge) & campground within its boundaries; known for redwood groves & trail to Pfeiffer Falls.
Point Lobos State Reserve – Highway 1 (3-5 miles south of Carmel); 831-624-4909;; majestic landscape with 14 meandering trails; sea otters and lions, and seals; migrating whales December through May; make sure to visit Allan Memorial Grove and Whaling Station Museum.
San Carlos Borromeo del Rio Carmelo Mission – 3080 Rio Road (Carmel); 831-624-1271;; founded at present site in 1771 by Father Junipero Serra; beautiful.
17-Mile Drive – Highway 1 Gate to Carmel Gate;; scenic loop-road through Pebble Beach & Pacific Grove, hugging Pacific coastline; 4 primary entrances, main highway entrance at California State Route 1, and entrances in Carmel & Pacific Grove.
Stevenson House – 530 Houston Street (Monterey); 831-649-7118;; 2-story adobe has sheltered families, government officials, artists, writers & fishermen since Mexican era; in 1879, during time as rooming house (known as “French Hotel”), Robert Louis Stevenson, stayed few months; in frail health, poor & unknown, cared for by friends while he courted his future wife, Fanny Osbourne; while in Monterey, Stevenson penned Old Pacific Capital; several rooms devoted to “Stevensonia.”
Stillwater Cove – 22455 California Highway 1 (Jenner, all parking at Stillwater Cove Regional Park); 707-847-3245 or 831-625-8507 (for diving permission); Chinese fishing village site in 1868; now premier, year-round shore-diving locale for area; otters, seals & other marine life; only 10 divers per day allowed; about 2 weeks in advance to make reservation.


(includes Cape Canaveral, College Park, Eatonville, Fort Pierce, New Smyrna Beach, Sanford & Winter Park)

Infusion Tea – 1600 Edgewater Drive (College Park); 407-999-5255;; tea and bakery goods; attached artists’ collective.

B.B. King’s Blues Club – 9101 International Drive; 407-370-4550;
LMGA – 1016 North Mills Avenue (ViMi); 407-898-0009;; stands for “Lou’s Music, Gaming & Alcohol”; dive bar.
Orlando Improv Comedy Club & Dinner Theater – 9101 International Drive; 407-480-5233;
Ravenous Pig – 1234 North Orange Avenue (Winter Park); 407-539-2680;; gastropub; looks like average strip mall from outside but attention to detail re, for example, handmade house sour mix and cheese biscuits make worth trip.
Red Fox Lounge – 110 South Orlando Avenue (Winter Park); 407-647-1166; “Toupee World” bar in old Best Western; haunted by young professionals for general campiness; make sure to see lounge act, Mark Wayne and Lorna Lambey.
Wally’s Mills Avenue Liquors – 1001 North Mills Avenue (ViMi); 407-896-6975; dive bar with U-shaped bar and tobacco-stained wallpaper (with naked ladies on it).
Will’s Pub – 1042 North Mills Avenue (ViMi); 407-898-5070;; dive bar.

Eo Inn & Spa – 227 North Eola Drive; 407-481-8485 or 888-481-8488;; budget boutique on Lake Eola; sun terrace with hot tub and adjoining spa.
Peabody Orlando Hotel – 9801 International Drive; 407-352-4000 or 800-732-2639;; 3-acre recreational area with cabanas, pool, and waterfall; good spa.

Beefy King – 424 North Bumby Avenue; 407-894-2241; beefyking; old-school fast food; try roast beef sandwich and cherry milkshake.
Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant – 125 West Church Street; 321-281-8140;; Spanish food.
Funky Monkey Wine Co. – 9801 International Drive; 407-418-9463;; cosmopolitan restaurant with sushi; drag troupe on Friday nights provides scandalous entertainment.
Granny’s Kitchen – 901 Avenue D (Fort Pierce); 772-461-9533; owner was Zora Neale Hurston’s student at Lincoln Park Academy.
Gordon’s Be-Back Fish House – 558 East Kennedy Boulevard (Eatonville); 407-644-6640; catfish, hush puppies, fried okra, and grits.
K Restaurant – 1710 Edgewater Drive (College Park); 407-872-2332;; Vietnamese-fusion.
Malony’s Oyster Bar – 147 Canal Street (New Smyrna Beach); 386-424-1312; known for steam kettle cooking; old-style Florida venue.
Melissas Chicken & Waffle – 65 Keller Road; 407-371-2887.
Prato – 124 North Park Avenue (Winter Park); 407-262-0050;; ingredient-driven Italian spot; sit outside, weather permitting.
Ravenous Pig – 1234 North Orange Avenue (Winter Park); 407-539-2680;; gastropub; looks like average strip mall from outside but attention to detail re, for example, handmade house sour mix and cheese biscuits make worth trip; try mussels and fries and/or strip steak with wild mushroom bread pudding.
Stardust Video & Coffee – 1842 East Winter Park Road (Winter Park); 407-623-3393;; brunch location for Orlando’s artists; zucchini pancakes, sweet potato hash.
Winter Park Fish Co. – 761 North Orange Avenue (Winter Park); 407-622-6112;; thoughtful, sustainable dishes, notwithstanding run-of-mill atmosphere.

Scenic Boat Tours – 312 East Morse Boulevard; 407-644-4056;; hourlong cruises that provide glimpses of Spanish colonial-style mansions, azalea gardens, etc.

Ace Metric Cycles – 444 West New England Avenue, Suite 119 (Winter Park, near Hannibal Square); 407-790-7802;; bike shop.
Makr Carry Goods – 444 West New England Avenue, Suite 102 (Winter Park, near Hannibal Square); 407-284-0192;; minimalist iPod cases and leather bags.
Rifle Paper Co. – 558 West New England Avenue, Suite 150 (Winter Park, near Hannibal Square); 407-622-7679;; fashionable stationer.

Garden of Heavenly Rest Cemetery – 17th Street and Avenue S (Fort Pierce); Zora Neale Hurston buried here; tombstone misspells name.
Hannibal Square Heritage Center – 642 New England Avenue; 407-539-2680;; documents this Reconstruction-era freed slaves’ community.
Kennedy Space Center – John F. Kennedy Space Center (Cape Canaveral); 321-867-5000;
Jack Kerouac Project – 1418 Clouser Avenue (College Park); 407-872-0659; where he wrote Dharma Bums.
Macedonia Missionary Baptist Church – 412 East Kennedy Boulevard (Eatonville); 407-647-0010;; church where Zora Neale Hurston’s father preached.
Morse Museum of American Art – 445 North Park Avenue (Winter Park); 407-645-5311;; when Louis Comfort Tiffany’s estate on Long Island burned, in 1957, Jeanette and Hugh McKean rescued most of his most famous pieces and brought as core of what has become world’s most comprehensive Tiffany collection.
Pointe Performing Arts Center – 9801 International Drive; 407-374-3587;
Sanford Cemetery – intersection of West 25th Street and Hardy Avenue (Sanford); Hurston’s mother believed to be buried here but grave not discovered yet.
Shingle Creek Trail – 11501 International Drive or 13400 Town Loop Boulevard; 561-686-8800 or 800-250-4250;; boardwalk; biking and hiking.
Zora Neale Hurston Museum – 227 East Kennedy (Eatonville); 407-647-3307;; offers detailed maps of Hurston’s Eatonville.


(includes Boca Raton, Boynton Beach, Canal Point, Delray Beach, Juno, Jupiter, Lake Worth, Palm Beach, Plantation & West Palm Beach)

Blue Martini – 550 South Rosemary Avenue (West Palm Beach, City Place); 561-835-8601;
Brazilian Court – 301 Australian Avenue (Palm Beach);; order Bikini Martini (Sagatiba Cachaca and passion fruit puree).
Caliente Kitchen – 8 East Atlantic Avenue (Delray Beach); 561-450-6940;; great margaritas, late-night taco window, and patio; roadhouse atmosphere.
Johnnie Brown’s – 301 East Atlantic Avenue (Delray Beach); 561-243-9911;; open-air joint with nightly live rock and flat screens showing sports.
Leopard Lounge – 363 Cocoanut Row (Palm Beach, at Chesterfield); 561-659-5800;; popular at night; leopard-print carpet.
The Office – 201 East Atlantic Avenue (Delray Beach); 561-276-3600;; smart bar-restaurant with patio.
Seafood Bar – 1 South County Road (Palm Beach, at Breakers); 561-655-6611;; great ocean views.
Tapestry Bar – 1 South County Road (Palm Beach, at Breakers); 561-655-6611;; 2 Flemish tapestries and grant bar built from mantel from Caxton Hall in London.

Esso Bonaire III – come in September, of 1st new moon, to see ready-to-spawn goliath grouper congregate by dozens; these 800 lb fish will sidle up to divers.
Miss Jenny – come in September, of 1st new moon, to see ready-to-spawn goliath grouper congregate by dozens; these 800 lb fish will sidle up to divers.
Tunnels – Jupiter; Gulf Stream pushes divers along this Florida coastline stretch so keep track of buddy; enormous goliath grouper and loggerhead turtles.
Zion – come in September, of 1st new moon, to see ready-to-spawn goliath grouper congregate by dozens; these 800 lb fish will sidle up to divers.

Boca Beach Club – 900 South Ocean Boulevard (Boca Raton); 561-447-3000 or 888-543-1277;
Boca Raton Resort, Waldorf Astoria Collection – 501 East Camino Real (Boca Raton); 561-447-3000 or 888-543-1277;
Brazilian Court – 301 Australian Avenue (Palm Beach); 561-655-7440 or 800-552-0335;; luxury boutique.
Breakers – 1 South County Road (Palm Beach); 561-655-6611 or 888-273-2537;; 550-rooms; stunning; built in 1896; beach access; several restaurants and spa.
Chesterfield – 363 Cocoanut Row (Palm Beach); 561-659-5800 or 800-525-4800;; Small Luxury Hotel; 52-room boutique within walking distance of Worth Avenue.
Colony Hotel – 525 East Atlantic Avenue (Delray Beach); 561-276-4123;; about 5 blocks from ocean; old-world, 3 star hotel that never the less has atmosphere and charm; window units.
East Wind Beach Club – 150 North Ocean Boulevard (Delray Beach); 561-278-6211;; mid-century modern and affordable; there is nothing wrong with this place.
Jupiter Beach Resort & Spa – 5 North A1A (Jupiter; 561-746-2511 or 866-943=0950;; adequate, especially if on diving trip.
Omphoy Ocean Resort – 2842 South Ocean Boulevard (Palm Beach); 561-540-6440;; luxury, 5 star resort; boutique-y and modern.
Seagate Beach Club – 401 South Ocean Drive (Delray Beach); 561-665-4800 or 877-577-3242;; 162 rooms; pretty but overpriced; not on beach (about 1 block back) but nothing really is.

Abe & Louie’s – 2200 West Glades Road (Boca Raton); 561-447-0024;; high-end steakhouse.
Benny’s on Beach – 10 Ocean Boulevard (Lake Worth); 561-582-9001;; for breakfast; try raspberry-stuffed granola French toast.
Cabana El Rey – 105 East Atlantic Avenue (Delray Beach); 561-274-9090;; "nuevo latino" cuisine; paella valenciana is excellent.
Cabana West Palm – 533 Clematis Street (West Palm Beach); 561-833-4773;; try mahi mahi with tomato-pepper sauce.
Caffé Luna Rosa – 34 South Ocean Boulevard (Delray Beach); 561-274-9404;; charming; on oceanfront yet has lower Manhattan (wood-panelled, closely-set tables, long bar); windows open, weather permitting; excellent, homemade pasta.
Caliente Kitchen – 8 East Atlantic Avenue (Delray Beach); 561-450-6940;; great margaritas, late-night taco window, and patio; roadhouse atmosphere.
Cheese Course – 305 Plaza Real, Suite 1305 (Boca Raton); 561-395-4354;; try #4 sandwich.
Cucina Dell’Arte – 257 Royal Poinciana Way (Palm Beach); 561-655-0770;; open until 3 a.m.; can eat out-of-doors; try pollo cacciatore.
Green Owl – 330 East Atlantic Avenue (Delray Beach); 561-272-7766; for breakfast only; good, traditional, diner-like food.
Green’s Pharmacy – 151 North County Road (Palm Beach); 561-832-443; breakfast at old-fashioned lunch counter.
Hamburger Heaven – 314 South County Road (Palm Beach); 561-655-5277; make sure to get coconut lemon mega-cake for dessert.
Imoto – 350 South County Road (Palm Beach); 561-833-5522;; sushi; small, tasteful restaurant; operated by well-regarded chefs.
Laspada’s Original Hoagies – 2240 Northwest 19th Street (Boca Raton); 561-393-1434;
Little Moir’s Food Shack – 103 South US Highway 1, #D3 (Jupiter); 561-741-3626;; Venus Williams says this is her favorite restaurant.
MB Terrace – 2842 South Ocean Boulevard (Palm Beach, at Omphoy Ocean Resort); 561-540-6450;; try seafood ceviche.
The Office – 201 East Atlantic (Delray Beach); 561-276-3600;; smart bar-restaurant with patio.
Palm Beach Grill – 340 Royal Poinciana Way (Palm Beach); 561-835-1077;; darkly wooded, dimly lighted social fixture; James Patterson’s favorite; try spare ribs and ice-cream sundaes.
Souvlaki Grill – 795 Belvedere Road (West Palm Beach); 561-655-6333;
Spoonfed – 217 East Atlantic Avenue (Delray Beach); 561-450-7557;; good brunches and desserts; sit outside and watch pedestrians stroll by.
Ta-Boo – 221 Worth Avenue (Palm Beach); 561-835-3500;; British colonial décor; try chopped chef salad.
Taverna Kyma – 6298 North Federal Highway (Boca Raton); 561-994-2828; Greek.
Testa’s Palm Beach Restaurant – 221 Royal Poinciana Way (Palm Beach); 561-832-0992;; sprawling, relaxed, breakfast place; try blueberry, pecan, or bran pancakes.

Palm Beach Bicycle Trail Shop – 223 Sunrise Avenue (Palm Beach); 561-659-4583;; rent to ride trail along Intracoastal Waterway.

Cedric Dupont – 820 South Dixie Highway (Palm Beach); 561-832-1319;; antiques.
Cheese Course – 305 Plaza Real, Suite 1305 (Boca Raton); 561-395-4354;; gourmet food products.
Circa Who – 531 Northwood Road (Palm Beach); 561-655-5224;; retro and used furniture.
Cupcake Couture & Sweet Boutique – 328 East Atlantic Avenue (Delray Beach); 561-276-2334;; dessert parlor.
Elephant’s Foot – 3800 South Dixie Highway (Palm Beach); 561-832-0170;; antiques.
Leta Austin Foster Boutique – 64 Via Mizner (Palm Beach); 561-655-7367;; home furnishings.
Gavlak Gallery – 249 B Worth Avenue (Palm Beach); 561-833-0583;; art.
Goodwill Embassy Boutique – 210 Sunset Avenue (Palm Beach); 561-832-8199;; for high-end used clothing at low-end prices.
Gypsy – 450 South County Road (Palm Beach); 561-832-1333;; clothing boutique; high-end.
Laura Munder – 209 A Worth Avenue (Palm Beach); 561-296-5606;; jewelry.
Maryanna Suzanna – 313 Worth Avenue (Palm Beach); 561-833-0204; colorful jewelry.
Il Sandalo – 240 Worth Avenue (Palm Beach); 561-805-8674;; shoemaker, Hernan Garcia, makes custom-made sandals.
Sherry Frankel’s Melangerie – 256 Worth Avenue (Palm Beach); 561-655-1996; plastic watches, etc.

Flagler Museum – 1 Whitehall Way (Palm Beach); 561-655-2833;; 55-room, former home of Henry Morrison Flagler, one of Standard Oil’s founders; brought railroad to Florida.
Green Cay Nature Center – 12800 Hagen Ranch Road (Boynton Beach); 561-966-7000;; 100 acres constructed wetland; 1.5 miles elevated boardwalk.
Gumbo Limbo Nature Center – 1801 North Ocean Boulevard (Boca Raton); 561-338-1473;; 20 acres of protected barrier island.
Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse & Museum – 500 Captain Armour’s Way (Jupiter); 561-747-8380;
Loggerhead Marinelife Center – 14200 US Highway One (Juno); 561-627-8280;
Arthur R. Marshall Loxahatchee National Wildlife Refuge – 10216 Lee Road (Boynton Beach); 561-734-8303;; great birdwatching.
Morikami Gardens – 4000 Morikami Park Road (Delray Beach); 561-495-0233;; 200 acre Japanese gardens.
Norton Museum of Art – 1451 South Olive Avenue (West Palm Beach); 561-832-5196;; holdings include major European works by Brancusi, Gauguin, Matisse, Miro, Monet, and Picasso.
Palm Beach Museum of Natural History – 511 North Fig Tree (Plantation); 954-797-2722;
Port Mayaca Lock – 18100 Southwest Conners Highway (Canal Point); 863-983-8101;; visitors usually can see manatees at this US government-maintained lock.

Friday, July 11, 2014


Phoenix Islands Protected Area (PIPA) – east of Gilbert Islands, west of & Line Islands;; 8 island atoll group (Birnie, Enderbury, Gardner (Nikumaroro), Hull (Orona), Kanton (Abariringa, northernmost), McKean (northwesternmost), Phoenix (Rawaki) & Sydney (Manra)) & 2 submerged coral reefs (Carondelet & Winslow Reefs); home to 120 coral & 500 fish species; entire Phoenix group and surrounding waters is protected area (160K sq mi); group uninhabited except for few families on Kanton, 41 persons (as of 2005), most living in abandoned structures from UK/US occupation (1936-76); Kanton encloses 15 sq mi lagoon; island is mostly bare coral, covered with herbs, bunch grasses, low shrubs & few trees; Enderbury is low, flat, small coral atoll with tiny lagoon; island has seen little human impact following last few colonists’ (4 in number) evacuation in 1942, during WWII; Birnie is small, flat coral island with tiny lagoon, declared wildlife sanctuary in 1975; McKean is 57 hectares, devoid of fresh water or trees, though it does have hypersaline lagoon; world’s largest nesting population of lesser Frigate bird (up to 85K birds); Rawaki has several freshwater pools, only known freshwater wetlands in Phoenix Islands; Manra has large, salty lagoon & covered with coconut palms, scrub forest, herbs and grasses; definite evidence of prehistoric inhabitation, in form of at least dozen platforms and remains of enclosures; Orona, like Kanton, is narrow land ribbon surrounding sizable lagoon; also contains evidence of prehistoric Polynesian inhabitation; ancient stone marae stands on eastern tip; Nikumaroro encloses large central lagoon, with profuse vegetation; Amelia Earhart might have crash-landed her plane on island; deepest and largest World Heritage site.