Wednesday, March 1, 2017

MAURITANIA

OUADANE
Sights & Sites
Richat Structure – Sahara Desert; 011-20-112-295-7242; nasa.gov/multimedia/imagegallery/image_feature_528.html ; long considered impact structure, now believed by most to be structural dome; sedimentary rock exposed in this dome ranges in age from Late Proterozoic within center to Ordovician sandstone around its edges.

Sunday, September 6, 2015

SONOMA WINE REGION

(does not includes Mendocino Coast; does include Cloverdale, Freestone, Geyserville, Glen Ellen, Guerneville, Healdsburg, Kenwood, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Sebastopol, Sonoma & Windsor)

CLOVERDALE
Sights & Sites
Cloverdale Arts Alliance – 105 East 1st (town square, next to farmers’ market); 707-894-4410; cloverdaleartsalliance.org; free summer concerts in evening.



FREESTONE
Services
Osmosis Day Spa – 209 Bohemian Highway; 707-823-8231; osmosis.com.



GEYSERVILLE
Restaurants
Rustic – 300 Via Archimedes (at Francis Ford Coppola Winery); 707-857-1471; franciscoppolawinery.com; traditional Italian fare.

Sights & Sites
Francis Ford Coppola Winery – 300 Via Archimedes; 707-857-1471; franciscoppolawinery.com; 88-acre estate with restaurant and 2 outdoor pools.



GLEN ELLEN
Sights & Sites
Bouverie Preserve – 13935 Sonoma Highway; 707-938-4554; egret.org; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.



GUERNEVILLE (includes Forestville)
Bars & Nightclubs
Boon Eat + Drink – 16248 Main Street; 707-869-0780; eatatboon.com.

Hotels
Boon Hotel + Spa – 14711 Armstrong Woods Road; 707-869-2721; boonhotels.com; courtyard centered around pool; rooms on 6' stilts above Russian River flood-plain; modern decor.
Farmhouse Inn – 7871 River Road (Forestville); 707-887-3300; farmhouseinn.com; boutique hotel attached to 1 Michelin star restaurant.
West Sonoma Inn & Spa – 14100 Brookside Lane; 707-869-2874 or 800-551-1881; recently renovated.

Restaurants
Applewood Inn – 13555 Highway 116; 707-869-9093 or 800-555-8509; applewoodinn.com.
Boon Eat + Drink – 16248 Main Street; 707-869-0780; eatatboon.com.
Farmhouse – 7871 River Road (Forestville); 707-887-3300; farmhouseinn.com; 1 Michelin star.
Garden Grill – 17132 Highway 116; 707-869-3922; barbecue, breakfast, and brunch; small patio in back.

Services
Farmhouse Spa – 7871 River Road (Forestville); 707-887-3300; farmhouseinn.com.
King’s Sport & Tackle – 16258 Main Street; 707-869-2156; kingsrussianriver.com; sporting goods store that arranges kayaking trips on Russian River.

Shopping
[big bottom market] – 16228 Main Street; 707-604-7295; bigbottommarket.com; general goods store (groceries, etc.).
King’s Sport & Tackle – 16258 Main Street; 707-869-2156; kingsrussianriver.com; sporting goods store.

Sights & Sites
Armstrong Redwoods State National Reserve – 17000 Armstrong Woods Road; 707-869-2015; parks.ca.gov/?page_id=450; among last surviving redwood giants.



HEALDSBURG
Bars & Nightclubs
Bear Republic Brewing Co. – 345 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-2337; bearrepublic.com; microbrewery.
Cyrus – 29 North Street; 707-433-3311; cyrusrestaurant.com; tasting menu only except in bar.

Hotels
DuChamp Hotel – 421 Foss Street; 707-431-1300 or 800-431-1300; duchamphotel.com; contemporary and luxurious; feels like private club.
Grape Leaf Inn – 539 Johnson Street; 707-433-8140; grapeleafinn.com.
Hotel Healdsburg – 25 Matheson Street; 707-431-2800 or 800-889-7188; hotelhealdsburg.com; beautiful; super modern.
h2Hotel – 219 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-922-5251; hthotel.com; 36 rooms; solar heated; great bar.

Restaurants
Barndiva – 231 Center Street; 707-431-0100; barndiva.com; exclusively uses local ingredients.
Bovolo – 106 Matheson Street; 707-431-2962; bovolorestaurant.com; Tuscan.
Cyrus – 29 North Street; 707-433-3311; cyrusrestaurant.com; tasting menu only except in bar; considered French Laundry of Sonoma.

Services
Hotel Healdsburg Spa – 25 Matheson Street; 707-431-2800; hotelhealdsburg.com; try honey and wine body wrap.
Simple Touch Spa – 239 Center Street; 707-433-6856; asimpletouchspa.com.

Shopping
Arboretum – 332 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-7033; arboretumapparel.com; organic cotton jeans and handbags made of vintage car fabrics.
Bella Winery & Caves – 9711 West Dry Creek Road; 707-473-9171; bellawinery.com; winery.
Capture Gallery – 105 Plaza Street; 707-431-7030; capturefineart.com; high-end photography.
Hawley Tasting Room & Gallery – 36 North Street; 707-473-9500; hawleywine.com; Dana Hawley’s landscapes; husband is vintner.
Lime Stone – 315 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-3080; limestonehealdsburg.com; culinary gifts.
Studio Barndiva – 237 Center Street; 707-431-7404; studiobarndiva.com; textiles from women’s collectives in Ethiopia and Tibet.
Quivira Vineyard & Winery – 4900 West Dry Creek Road; 707-431-8333; quiviraqwine.com; organic, wildflower honey.

Sights & Sites
Anderson Valley Wine Appellation – take Highway 128 to coast, which will pass through wine valley, along Navarro River banks to Highway 1.
Hand Fan Museum – 327a Healdsburg Avenue; 707-431-2500; handfanmuseum.com.
Healdsburg Center for Arts – 130 Plaza Street; 707-431-1970; healdsburgcenterforthearts.com; rotating displays of local and regional artists.
Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park – US Route 199 (9 miles east of Crescent City); 707-458-3018; parks.ca.gov/?page_id=413; established in 1929; named after noted fur trapper Jedediah Smith, who visited its location during 1826 expedition; among 3 state parks cooperatively managed as part of Redwood National and State Parks; several hiking trails and day use area adjacent to campground, next to Smith River; Hiouchi Trail, Mill Creek Trail, Simpson Reed Discovery Trail and Stout Grove (which contains “Stout Tree,” largest in stand); Mill Creek flows through park and merges with Smith River.



KENWOOD
Hotels
Kenwood Inn & Spa – 10400 Sonoma Highway; 707-833-1293 or 800-353-6966; kenwoodinn.com; among most highly regarded wine country resorts.



PETALUMA
Bars & Nightclubs
Dempsey’s – 50 East Washington Street; 707-765-9694; dempseys.com; microbrewery.

Restaurants
Café Della Fattoria – 141 Petaluma Boulevard North; 707-763-0161; dellafattoria.com; organic bakery that bakes wide variety French breads in wood-burning ovens.



SANTA ROSA
Bars & Nightclubs
Christy’s on Square – Old Courthouse Square; 707-528-8565; christysonthesquare.com; older, sophisticated clientele.

Restaurants
Zazu Restaurant & Farm – 3535 Guerneville Road; zazurestaurant.com; 707-523-4814 fresh, local market food.

Sights & Sites
Bohemian Highway – from Freestone (10 miles west of Santa Rosa), up to rural Monte Rio (home to Bohemian Grove).



SEBASTOPOL
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Many Rivers Books & Tea – 130 South Main Street; 707-829-8871; manyriversbooks.com.

Bars & Nightclubs
Hopmonk Tavern – 230 Petaluma Avenue; 707-829-7300; hopmonk.com; live music.

Restaurants
Aubergine Vintage Emporium & Cafe – 755 Petaluma Avenue; 707-827-3460; aubergineafterdark.com; cafe, clothing store, and concert venue.
K&L Bistro – 119 South Main Street; 707-823-6614; klbistro.com; 1 Michelin star; bistro food.
Hopmonk Tavern – 230 Petaluma Avenue; 707-829-7300; hopmonk.com; food and live music.
Peter Lowell’s – 7385 Healdsburg Avenue, Suite 101; 707-829-1077; peterlowells.com; organic Italian restaurant.

Shopping
Patrick Amiot – 382 Florence Avenue; 707-824-9388; patrickamiot.com; art.
Aubergine Vintage Emporium & Cafe – 755 Petaluma Avenue; 707-827-3460; aubergineafterdark.com; 8K' square vintage clothing.
Many Rivers Books & Tea – 130 South Main Street; 707-829-8871; manyriversbooks.com; spiritually-themed bookstore.
Redwood Hill Farm – 2064 Highway 116 North; 707-823-8250; redwoodhill.com; dairy products.
Risk Press Gallery – 7345 Healdsburg Avenue; riskpress.com; non-profit space for emerging artists.
Rosemary’s Garden – 132 North Main Street; 707-829-2539; rosemarysgarden.com; herb shop.

Sights & Sites
Aubergine Vintage Emporium & Cafe – 755 Petaluma Avenue; 707-827-3460; aubergineafterdark.com; cafe, clothing store, and concert venue.
Sebastopol Center for Arts – 6780 Depot Street; 707-829-4797; sebarts.org; arts venue.
Sonoma County Repertory Theater – 104 North Main Street; 707-823-0177; the-rep.com; Shakespeare and newer plays, such as Neil LaBute.



SONOMA
Bars & Nightclubs
El Dorado Hotel – 405 1st Street West; 707-996-3220; eldoradosonoma.com; effortlessly glamorous; minimalist and sleek.

Hotels
Carneros Inn – 4048 Sonoma Highway; 707-299-4900 or 888-400-9000; thecarnerosinn.com; haute agricultural architecture by way of tin-roofed cottages with porches; 25-minutes from St. Helena.
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn – 100 Boyes Boulevard; 866-540-4499 or 707-938-9000; fairmont.com/sonoma.
Ledson Hotel – 480 1st Street East (Sonoma Plaza); 707-996-9779 or 800-850-4370; ledsonhotel.com; just 6 rooms, each with marble shower and whirlpool tub; expensive.
Sonoma Creek Inn – 239 Boyes Boulevard; 707-939-9463 or 888-712-1289; sonomacreekinn.com; combines bed & breakfast atmosphere with 1950s motel; most rooms with own small patio; affordable.

Restaurants
Girl & Fig – 400 West Spain Street; 707-933-3663; thegirlandthefig.com; regional Italian cuisine using Northern Californian ingredients; sit outside and have Spritzer; try porchetta and polenta in pork jus or Pacific rock cod with wood-roasted Yukon gold potatoes.
La Michoacana – 18495 Highway 12; 707-938-1773; facebook.com/pages/La-Michoacana-paleteria-y-neveria/133941356675189; soft ice cream.
Sante – 100 Boyes Boulevard (at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa); 707-938-900; fairmont.com/sonoma; American-French menu; Michelin star; try mac & cheese with lobster.

Sights & Sites
Sonoma City Opera – 484 East Napa Street; 707-939-8288; sonomaopera.org; concerts.



WINDSOR
Restaurants
Mirepoix – 275 Windsor River Road (in Sonoma Country); 707-838-0162; French, bistro-style food.

Monday, March 23, 2015

AUSTRALIA-VICTORIA

(does not include Melbourne)

BUCKLAND VALLEY
Hotels, Lodges & Resorts
Buckland Studio Retreat – 116 McCormack’s Lane (Bright); 011-61-4-1913-3318; thebuckland.com.au.



PORT CAMPBELL
Dives
Loch Ard – Twelve Apostles Marine National Park (Port Campbell); 011-61-3-8627-4700; parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/twelve-apostles-marine-national-park; square-rigged iron sailing ship.

Sights & Sites
Port Campbell National Park – Great Ocean Road; 011-61-3-8627-4700; parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/port-campbell-national-park; wave-sculpted rock formations (e.g., Twelve Apostles); Loch Ard Gorge is site of 19th Century shipwreck Loch Ard; hike Port Campbell Discovery Walk; includes Twelve Apostles Marine National Park.

Sunday, November 2, 2014

TURKISH RIVIERA

TOURS
Academic Arrangements Abroad – 1040 Avenue of Americas (between 39th & 40th Streets); 212-302-3104; arrangementsabroad.com; discover coastal Turkey, narrated by academics.



ANTALYA PROVINCE
Antalya
Sights & Sites
Antalya Museum – Konyaalti Caddesi; 011-90-0242-241-4528; kultur.gov.tr/EN/belge/2-19912/eski2yeni.html.

Aykiricay
Restaurants
Altintas – Elmali-Finike Road (follow Elmali signs); riverside restaurant notable for setting and pleasant meals.
Sights & Sites
Arycanda – Elmali-Finike Road (5 miles east of Kale); lycianturkey.com/lycian_sites/arycanda.htm; ancient Lycian city, built upon 5 large terraces ascending mountain slope; sights include largest Lycian bath complex (lowest terrace), still virtually intact; in agora, some shops (eastern part) can still be seen; amphitheater, in excellent condition, built during 2nd Century; odeon including Emperor Hadrian portrait; stadium, from Hellenistic period, smaller than usual stadium; 2 necropolises, 1 with richly decorated funerary monuments; and bouleuterion, where council met.

Olympos
Beaches
Olympos – considered among top in Turkey.
Hotels
Bayrams Tree Houses – Yazir Koyu Olympos Mevki Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca); 011-90-0242-892-1399; bayrams.com/En; tree houses; casual and for young crowd.
Zeus Pension – Yazir Koyu Olympos Mevki Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca); ferahzeus@yahoo.com; family business offering 34 bungalows & 6 tree houses; run by Ferah and Ferruh (brothers) & Hatice (sister); brothers arrange tours, trekking & airport transfer, while Hatice is in kitchen, preparing meals; includes breakfast & dinner.
Restaurants
Muzo’s – on path to beach (just after ticket office); have cheese or spinach Turkish pancake (gözleme) while sitting on traditional Turkish lounges.
Sights & Sites
Beydağları Coastal National Park – Yazir Koyu Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca); 011-90-0242-345-1465 or 011-90-0242-814-1507; olymposteleferik.com/en/aktivitaeten/naturpark; national park stretches over 133 square miles; ancient settlements Idyros, Olympos & Phaselis within; beach and sea sports, picnic, camping, trekking, mountain climbing, paragliding, etc.



BOZCAADA ISLAND (in Greek, Tenedos) – 7 hours by bus & ferry from Istanbul
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368; facebook.com/pages/Deniz-Art-Cafe/181050188621734; cafe, coffee, studio.

Beaches
Cayir.

Hotels
Kemerbag 29 – 29 Kemerbasi Mevkii; 011-90-0532-609-8339; kemerbag29.com; 4 cozy, homey rooms; pool; on 10 orchard and vineyard acres.
Otel Kaikias – Cumhuriyet Mahhallesi (Kale Arkasi Mevkii); 011-90-0286-697-0250; kaikias.com; boutique hotel with simple, whitewashed rooms; beach facilities at water’s edge overlook fortress.

Restaurants
Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368; facebook.com/pages/Deniz-Art-Cafe/181050188621734; coffee.
Lodos – Cinar Carsi Caddesi; 011-90-0286-697-0545; lodosbozcaada.net; excellent mezes, like ahtapot fume (smoked octopus), cicek dolmasi (stuffed zucchini blossoms), and patlican salatasi (smoked eggplant puree).
Maya – Amerikan Çeşme Mevkii; 011-90-0532-421-7795; mayabozcaada.com; breakfast, lunch, cocktails, and dinner at 4 tables in his home garden; breakfast especially good.

Shopping
Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368; facebook.com/pages/Deniz-Art-Cafe/181050188621734; art studio & gift shop.

Sights & Sites
Amadeus Vineyard – 9 Kumkuyu Mevkii (Canakkale); amadeuswine.com; vineyard.
Corvus Vineyard – Tuzburnu Mevkii; 011-90-0212-286-5880; corvus.com.tr; 3 shops in village and can visit vineyard by appointment.



IZMIR PROVINCE
Bozburun (includes Datca)
Sights & Sites
Saturday Market – Datca; good place to stock up on groceries: cheeses, herbs, honeys, produce.

Çeşme (includes Alaçatı)
Beaches
Okan’s Place – Altınkum Mevkii; 011-90-0532-394-0131; okansplace.com; beach club that serves noshes.
Hotels
Alavya – 3005 Sokak No. 6, Yeni Mecidiye Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-6632; alavya.com.tr; 6 Greek-era houses containing 25 rooms & suites, restaurant & bar, boutique & spa; terraces & gardens around mosaic-lined pool.
Hotel Nars Ilica – Tosun Pasa Yalisi 5066 Sokak No. 12 (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-729-0001; nars.com.tr; converted, 19th Century mansion with 7 rooms.
Sudan Palas – 2012 Sokak No. 1-3, Hacimemis Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-7797; sudan.com.tr; 5-room guesthouse; chic.
Taş Otel – Kemalpaşa Caddesi No. 132, Yeni Mecidiye Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-7772; tasotel.com; 7-room, light-filled property; bougainvillea-fringed pool.
Restaurants
Alancha – 1036 Sokak No. 1, Tokoglu Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-8307; alancha.com; ultra-modern in design & menu; Anatolian.
Asma Yaprağı (Vine Leaf) – 1005 Sokak No. 50, Tokoglu Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-0178; asmayapragi.com.tr; old standby; slow-food, village-kitchen kind of place.
Services
Seabird Airlines – 54 Bebek Yokuşu İnşirah Caddesi, Suite D2 (Beşiktaş; 011-90-212-310-2330; flyseabird.com; offers transport in and out of Alaçatı from both Bodrum & Istanbul.
Shopping
Bazen – 2012 Sokak No. 1-3, Hacimemis Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0532-292-4183; facebook.com/BazenAlacati; concept store selling housewares, fashion & jewelry.
Kemeralti Bazaar – Anafartalar Caddesi, Febzipasa Bulvari Street, and surrounding streets; old marketplace; street maze filled with cafes, covered stalls, and shops; includes minimarkets dedicated to beads, jewelry, leather goods, musical instruments, songbirds, and many other treats; make sure to visit Kestane Pazari, miniature Spice Bazaar, which has decent selection coffee, spices, and tea stores, and whole slew confectioners.
Yastik – 1001 Sokak No. 2 (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-0280; yastikbyrifatozbek.com; textile boutique.

Ephesus (near Selkuk; includes Tire)
Restaurants
Kaplan Dag Restoran – Kaplan Village (Tire); 011-90-0232-512-6652; kaplandag.com; regional Turkish fare; try lor (ricotta-like cheese topped with fresh mulberry preserves).
Sights & Sights
House of Virgin Mary – Orman Yolu Park (from either Ephesus’ Upper or Lower entrances, follow signs to Meryemana); Virgin Mary’s final home; mostly dates from 6th-7th Century (foundations much older); small T-shaped stone building consists of bedroom and kitchen; spring under it believed to have healing properties; every August 15th (Feast of Mary’s Assumption), Catholic, Muslim, and Orthodox clergy conduct service together at shrine, 1 of rare occasions this happens anywhere.
St. John’s Basilica – entrance off St. Jean Sokak (just east of Isa Bey Cami Selcuk, on Ayasoluk Hill near Selcuk’s center); sacred-destinations.com/turkey/ephesus-basilica-of-st-john; constructed by Emperor Justinian in 6th Century; stands over St. John’s believed burial site; building completely destroyed in 1402 by Tamerlane’s Mongol army; restoration enables visitors to understand its size and visualize its former splendor (if fully restored, cathedral would be world’s 7th largest).
Temple of Artemis – Kusadasi; sacred-destinations.com/
turkey/ephesus-temple-of-artemis; completely rebuilt 3 times before eventual destruction in 401 by St. John Chrysostom; only foundations and sculptural fragments remain.

Urla
Restaurants
Yengec – İskele Mahallesi, 6 Sokak 2121; 011-90-0232-752-1152; yengec-restaurant.com; on harbor; 102 different mezes.



MUGLA PROVINCE
Bodrum
Hotels
Amanruya – Bulent Ecevit Caddesi (Demir Mevkii, Golturkbuku; 011-90-0252-311-1212; amanresorts.com.
Kempinski Hotel Barbaros – Kizilagac Koyu (Gerenkuyu Mevkii Yaliciftlik); 011-90-0252-311-0303; kempinski.com.
Maca Kizi Hotel – Kesireburnu Mevkii; 011-90-0252-377-6272; macakizi.com; best place to stay; pinnacle of chic; ask for rooms 862 and/or 872 or Villa 971.
Marmara Bodrum – Yokusbasi Mahallesi, Suluhasan Caddesi, 18; 011-90-0252-313-8130 or 011-90-0252-313-8135; themarmarahotels.com; perched on cliff, high above city; beautiful pool; Small Luxury Hotel member.
Shopping
Bodrum Market – next to bus station; every Tuesday.
Bodrum Sandalet – Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Hilmi Uran Meydani, 2; 011-90-0252-316-8497; handmade leather sandals.
EC Diamond – Marina Shopping Center, Bodrum Marina; 011-90-0252-316-6452; jewelry.
Gallery Mustafa – 48 Dr. Alim Ekinci Caddesi; 011-90-0252-313-1043; gallerymustafa.com; carpets; lovely kilims.
Sights & Sites
Bodrum Castle – Kale Caddesi; 011-90-0252-316-2516; bodrum-museum.com; built by Hospitallers.
Halicarnassus – Gumbet Yolu (on main road, just opposite Antique Theatre Hotel); 011-90-0252-316-8061; bodrumpages.com/English/history.html; just gated crumbling stone collection decade ago but, today, restored historic amphitheater; hilltop position overlooks Bodrum’s twin bays with concerts lighting up marble on summer’s eves; built by King Mausolus in 4th Century BCE, then enlarged in 2nd Century under Romans; rock tombs visible above theater; your leg-work will reveal inscriptions in seats (names of those who subsidized theater’s construction).
Mausoleum of Maussollos – Turgut Reis Caddesi (up hill, off Hamam Sokak); 011-90-0252-316-1219; bodrumpages.com/English/history.html; plundered Ancient World Wonder; only foundations remain; Caria King Mausolus ordered construction; finally completed in 350 BCE; tomb featured pillars supporting pyramid-shaped roof that appeared to float above structure; in 1522, earthquake caused monument to collapse; Hospitalers use stones for castle-chapel reconstruction.
Uluburun II – Kas; precise replica of world’s oldest shipwreck (2K BCE); sunk specifically for tourist divers.

Fethiye
Sights & Sites
Sovalye Island – pedestrian island surrounded by blue, clean, clear water.

Mugla
Hisaronu (includes Kumlubuk, Marmaris & Selimiye)
Hotels
D-Hotel Maris – Datca Yolu Road, km 35 (Hisaronu, Marmaris); 011-90-0252-441-2000; dhotel.com.tr; high on stunning Datca Peninsula hillside, where Aegean & Mediterranean Seas meet; overlooks small islands, natural private sand beaches, pine forests & volcanic mountain ranges; luxurious rooms & suites.
Dionysos Hotel – Alic Mevkii (Kumlubuk); 011-90-0252-476-7957 or 011-90-0252-476-7958; dionysoshotel.net; perched on canyon, terracotta-topped cottages clinging to mountainside high above Kumlubük, set amid fig, lemon, and olive trees, with views out to sea and of surrounding pine-clad peaks; restored mahogany-&-teak former lifeboat (Limon) on which up to 4 can enjoy intimate day at sea; infinity pool; owners Ahmet and Rim Senol manage this family-run estate; 22 rooms, 16 cottage suites and 4 villas, all with sea views; refurbished for 2011 in cool white and earth tones; cottage suites have outside space and each villa has private pool; book through Surrey-based Turkey specialist, Exclusive Escapes (011-44-020-8605-3500 and/or exclusiveescapes.co.uk); 3 restaurants: Dionysos Terrace, where Didem Senol (celebrated Istanbul chef) offers Mediterranean-inspired menu; Dionysos Sea Club (light bites by day, formal fish restaurant by night); and Nar (12-course Turkish tasting menu); Decléor spa offers wheatgerm facials, stone massages, and - for those with an interest in mysticism - numerology readings; yoga classes.
Restaurants
Sardunya – Selimiye; 011-90-0252-446-4003; sardunya.info; low-key restaurant (no signage), with several rooms set around fruit-tree shaded garden; right on water.

Ortakent
Sights & Sites
Mustafa Pasha Tower – built in 1602.

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

MONGOLIA

ÖMNÖGOVI
Sights & Sites
Flaming Cliffs – Bayanzag (Bain-Dzak); among greatest dinosaur fossil sites in world.



ULAAN BAATAR (includes Nalaikh)
Hotels
Terelj Hotel – Nalaikh; 011-976-9999-2233; tereljhotel.com.

Sights & Sites
Gorkhi Terelj National Park – Terelj Village (27 kms outside); mongoliatourism.org/travel-destinations/surrounding-ulaanbaatar/gorkhi-terelj-national-park.html; magnificent alpine scenery; hiking, rock climbing, swimming (in icy-cold water), rafting & horse riding.

Monday, July 21, 2014

CHAPEL HILL-DURHAM-RALEIGH

(includes Chapel Hill, Durham, Pittsboro, Raleigh & Wilson)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Counter Culture Coffee – 4911 South Alston Avenue (Durham); 919-361-5282; counterculturecoffee.com; open Friday mornings only for public “cuppings.”
Loaf – 111 West Parrish Street (Durham); 919-797-1254; loafwithus.com; baked goods & coffee; notable for cumin gruyere loves.
Parlour – 117 Market Street (Durham); 919-627-7235; theparlourdurham.com; homeade ice cream; try ice cream sandwiches, made with soft chocolate chip cookies and salted butter caramel ice cream.
Rue Cler – 401 East Chapel Hill Street (Durham); 919-682-8844; ruecler-durham.com; bakery, café, and Parisian restaurant.
Scratch Bakery – 111 Orange Street (Durham); 919-956-5200; piefantasy.com; bakery famous for pies.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Clockwork – 519 West North Street; 919-834-2211; clockworkraleigh.com; decor & patterns on wall stunning; huge gold statues & furniture are icing on cake; phenomenal cocktails with 70s theme.
Fox Liquor Bar – 237 South Wilmington Street (Raleigh); 919-322-0127; ac-restaurants.com/fox; boozy speakeasy.
Fullsteam Brewery – 726 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-682-2337; fullsteam.ag/tavern; cavernous bar; sit at picnic tables; food trucks nearby offer snacks.
Kotuku Surf Club – 703 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-294-9661; carpedurham.com/2011/12/16/surf-club; notwithstanding name, no-frills, simple bar.
Mandolin Raleigh – 2519 Fairview Road (Raleigh); 919-322-0365; mandolinraleigh.com; cocktails.
Motorco Music Hall – 723 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-901-0875; motorcomusic.com; garage bar & music venue.
Whiskey – 347 West Main Street (Durham); 919-682-6191; whiskeydurham.com; smoky speakeasy.



FOOD TRUCKS
American Meltdown – 207 Conner Drive (Chapel Hill); 516-317-8395; americanmeltdown.org/tag/food-truck; try Pigs & Figs sandwich.
Chirba Chirba Dumplings – Durham; 919-885-4328; chirbachirba.com; pork-filled buns.



HOTELS
Fearrington House – 2000 Fearrington Village Center (Pittsboro); 919-542-2121 or 800-277-0130; fearrington.com; English country hotel with French restaurant.
Durham – 315 East Chapel Hill Street; 919- or.
King’s Daughters’ Inn – 204 North Buchanan Boulevard (Durham); 919-354-7000; thekingsdaughtersinn.com; building dates to 1920s; adjacent to Duke campus; 17 room boutique.
21C Durham – 111 North Corcoran Street; 919-956-6700 or 844-301-4629; 21cmuseumhotels.com/durham.
Washington Duke Inn & Golf Club – 3001 Cameron Boulevard (Durham); 919-490-0999; washingtondukeinn.com; grandest place in town; in English countrystyle.



RESTAURANTS
Los Comales – 2103 North Roxboro Street (Durham); 919-220-1614; carpedurham.com/2008/08/02/taqueria-y-birreria-los-comales; authentic so down-at-heels; excellent agua frescas.
Counting House – 111 North Corcoran Street (at 21C Durham Hotel); 919-956-6760; 21cmuseumhotels.com/durham.
Crook’s Corner – 610 West Franklin Street (Chapel Hill); 919-929-7643; crookscorner.com; in May, hope for Honeysuckle Sorbet.
Dame’s Chicken & Waffles – 317 West Main Street (Durham); 919-682-9235; dameschickenwaffles.com; try Quilted Buttercup (fried chicken, sweet potato waffles, and maple-pecan butter schmear) & Triple Mac & Cheese.
Eno Restaurant & Market – 101 City Hall Plaza (Durham); 919-426-1622; enorestaurantandmarket.com; organic and biodynamic produce and meat from Holcomb’s farm.
Guglhupf – 2706 Durham-Chapel Hill Boulevard, #1 (Durham); 919-401-2600; guglhupf.com; Bavarian brunch.
Lantern – 423 West Franklin Street (Chapel Hill); 919-969-8846; lanternrestaurant.com; Asian-Thai; considered by locals to be Chapel Hill’s best restaurant.
Magnolia Grill – 1002 9th Street (Durham); 919-286-3609; magnoliagrill.net; #11 in Gourmet’s top American restaurants.
Mandolin Raleigh – 2519 Fairview Road (Raleigh); 919-322-0365; mandolinraleigh.com; new Southern cuisine.
Only Burger – 3710 Shannon Road (Durham); 919-937-9377; onlyburger.com; highly regarded; also operates food truck.
Parker & Otis – 112 South Duke Street (Durham); 919-683-3200; parkerandotis.com; café and upscale foodie grocery.
Parker’s Barbecue – 2514 US Highway 301 South (Wilson); 252-237-0972; among country’s best BBQ restaurants.
Poole’s Diner – 426 South McDowell Street (Raleigh); 919-832-4477; high-end, diner-reminiscent food; try chess pie.
Revolution – 107 West Main Street (Durham); 919-956-9999; revolutionrestaurant.com; squash tamales, macarpone gnocchi, and tuni with wasabi caviar.
Rose’s Meat Market & Sweet Shop – 121 North Gregson Street; 919-797-2233; rosesmeatandsweets.com; get lunch special AND dessert.
Rue Cler – 401 East Chapel Hill Street (Durham); 919-682-8844; ruecler-durham.com; bakery, café, and Parisian restaurant.
Sandwich – 431 West Franklin Street, #16 (Chapel Hill); 919-929-2114‎; sandwich.biz; try grass-fed beef meatloaf with crispy bacon and balsamic glaze.
Scratch – 111 Orange Street (Durham); 919-956-5200; piefantasy.com; sunny bakery-café; both savory and sweet pies.
Toast – 345 West Main Street (Durham); 919-683-2183; toast-fivepoints.com; Italian sandwich shop.
Zely & Ritz – 301 Glenwood Avenue (Raleigh); 919-828-0018; zelyandritz.com; slow-food.



SERVICES
Synergy Spa – 2603 Glenwood Ave, #121C (Raleigh); 919-510-5130; feelsynergy.com; day spa.



SHOPPING
Curatory – 319 West Martin Street (Raleigh); 919-917-8969; thecuratory.com; jeans.
Durham Farmers’ Market – 501 Foster Street (Durham); 919-667-3099; durhamfarmersmarket.com; takes over pavilion at recently cleaned up Durham Central Park on Saturday mornings; seek out Loaf bakery stall, or Monuts Donuts.
Horse & Buggy Press – 401-B1 Foster Street (Durham); 919-949-4847; horseandbuggypress.com; in-house graphic design products.
LabourLove Gallery – 807 East Main Street (Durham); 919-373-4451; labourlove.com; glass, stone, and wood artworks.
Liberty Arts Gallery – 923 Franklin Street (Durham); 919-682-2673; liberty-arts.org; paintings & photography.
Niche Gardens – 1111 Dawson Road (Chapel Hill); 919-967-0078; nichegardens.com; elegant nursery worth special trip.
Parker & Otis – 112 South Duke Street (Durham); 919-683-3200; parkerandotis.com; café and upscale foodie grocery.
Upfront Gallery – 401-B1 Foster Street (Durham); 919-949-4847; bullcityarts.org; local arts samplings; quirky.
Vert & Vogue – 905 West Main Street (Durham), #24b; 919-251-8537; vertandvogue.com; boutique in renovated tobacco warehouse; men’s wear.



SIGHTS & SITES
Carolina Theater – 309 West Morgan Street (Durham); 919-560-3030; carolinatheatre.org; classic, documentary, and indie movies.
Coker Arboretum – University of North Carolina, CB #3375, Totten Center (Chapel Hill); 919-962-0522; ncbg.unc.edu; shaded walkways in peaceful sanctuary on UNC campus.
Duke Chapel – 401 Chapel Drive (Durham); 919-681-9488; chapel.duke.edu; gothic and stately.
Sara B. Duke Gardens – 420 Anderson Street (Durham); 919-684-3698; hr.duke.edu/dukegardens; 55 manicured acres.
Durham Performing Arts Center – 123 Vivian Street (Durham); 919-688-3722; dpacnc.com.
Fearrington Gardens – 2000 Fearrington Village Center (Pittsboro); 919-542-2121 (for private tours); fearington.com.
Magic Wings Butterfly House – 433 Murray Avenue (Durham); 919-220-5429; ncmls.org; part of North Carolina Museum of Life and Science; 100s butterflies fluttering under cathedral-like ceilings at conservatory; 20K square feet.
Manbites Dog Theater – 703 Foster Street (Durham); 919-682-4974; manbitesdogtheater.org.
Nasher Museum of Art – 2001 Campus Drive (Durham); 919-684-5135; nasher.duke.edu; several modern, monolithic structures; focus is on contemporary art.
North Carolina Museum of Art – 2110 Blue Ridge Road (Raleigh); 919-839-6262; ncartmuseum.org.

Sunday, July 20, 2014

MARIN COUNTY

BOLINAS
Bars & Nightclubs
Smiley’s Schooner Saloon – 41 Wharf Road; 415-868-1311; smileyssaloon.com; established 1851.



CORTE MADERA
Restaurants
Il Fornaio – 223 Corte Madera Town Center; 415-927-4400; ilfornaio.com; Italian.



FAIRFAX
Shopping
Good Earth Natural Foods – 720 Center Boulevard; 415-454-0123; goodearthnaturalfoods.net; grocery store opened in 1969; stocks mostly natural or organic foods; designated area in front for chatting, drinking, eating, and sitting.



FORT BAKER
Bars & Nightclubs
Farley Bar – Cavallo Point, Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700; does not live up to promise.

Hotels
Cavallo Point – Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700 or 888-651-2003; cavallopoint.com; 68 rooms in restored officers’ quarters (older nostalgia, some with gas fireplaces); 74 rooms in new buildings; new rooms have unparalleled views; spa; restaurant, Murray Circle, and bar, Farley Bar do not live up to promise.

Restaurants
Murray Circle – Cavallo Point, Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700; does not live up to promise.

Sights & Sites
Fort Baker – Bunker Road (Golden Gate National Recreation Area); 415-375-8281 (cell phone tour); nps.gov; call for walking tour info.



INVERNESS
Hotels
Manka’s Inverness Lodge – 30 Callendar Way; 415-669-1034; mankas.com; wondrous collection of estates from early 1900s; main property holds 2 redwood cabins, annex, and old fishing-hunting lodge, all of which look like something out of Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale; 16' ceilings, wide plank floors, views over Tomales Bay, and spaciousness lend rooms in converted 1991 boathouse loftlike feel; cabins have double-ended tubs and private outdoor showers opening up to sky; 3- or 4-course fireside supper or private chef's meal (in their own accommodation); all ingredients farmed, fished, gathered, and/or grown within reach of lodge.
Osprey Peak Bed & Breakfast – 10 Miwak Way (Inverness); 415-669-1467; ospreypeak.com; farmhouse-like inn (ryokan); near Point Reyes.

Restaurants
Saltwater Oyster Depot – 12781 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard; 415-669-1244; saltwateroysterdepot.com; Luc Chamberland’s new cafe.



MILL VALLEY
Bars & Nightclubs
Buckeye Roadhouse – 15 Shoreline Highway; 415-331-2600; buckeyeroadhouse.com; Aspen-like lodge with fireplace.

Beaches
Muir Beach – Highway 1; 415-388-2596; parksconservancy.org; beach closed to visitors from July 7 through November.

Hotels
Acqua Hotel – 555 Redwood Highway; 415-380-0400 or 888-662-9555; marinhotels.com/acqua-hotel/home.
Mill Valley Inn – 165 Throckmorton Avenue; 415-389-6608 or 800-276-7415; marinhotels.com/mill-valley-inn/home.

Restaurants
Balboa Cafe – 38 Miller Avenue; 415-381-7321; plumpjack.com.
Buckeye Roadhouse – 15 Shoreline Highway; 415-331-2600; buckeyeroadhouse.com; Aspen-like lodge with fireplace; notable for prime rib.
El Paseo – 17 Throckmorton Avenue; 415-388-0741; elpaseomillvalley.com; open since 1947; owned by Tyler Florence and Sammy Hagar; French steakhouse.
Tamalpie Pizza – 477 Miller Avenue; 415-388-7437; tamalpiepizza.com; eat-in or take-out; hand-crafted pizzas and salads; high-end.

Sights & Sites
West Point Inn – 100 Old Railroad Grade Fire Road; 415-388-9955; westpointinn.org; 2 hour hike from Mill Valley up crooked railroad right-of-way; secluded among trees on Mt. Tamalpais upper south slope; once stopover for “Crookedest Railroad in World” passengers, up from Mill Valley; now haven for hikers; sweeping panoramic view includes East Bay, San Francisco, Marin Headlands, 1 Golden Gate Bridge tower, and out over Pacific Ocean.



NOVATO
Restaurants
Hilltop 1892 – 850 Lamont Avenue; 415-893-1892; hilltop1892.com; Michelin-recommended.



POINT REYES (includes Bolinas, Marshall, Olema, Point Reyes, Point Reyes Station & Stinson Beach)

Hotels
Nick’s Cove & Cottages – 23240 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-1033; nickscove.com; on skinny, Point Reyes peninsula; 5 waterfront cottages on pristine Tomales Bay; try to get “Big Rock” cabin; some room service.
Olema Inn & Restaurant – 10,000 Sir Frances Drake Boulevard (Olema); 415-663-9559; theolemainn.com; near Point Reyes; opened on July 4, 1876, lost as gambling debt, and survived 1906 earthquake (Olema was epicenter); today combines modern luxuries with antique furniture and light fixtures; views are of beautiful back garden – wedding site – and Olema Valley; stroll on stone pathways behind inn to orchard and flower gardens; try to reserve #3 – quietest room, overlooking garden.
Restaurants
Breakers Café – 3465 Highway 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-2002; stinsonbeachcafe.com; great breakfast, brunch and lunch spot; huge bloody marys with extravagant garnishes, fresh local produce, and wood-burning stove.
Hog Island Oyster Co. – 20215 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-9218; hogislandoysters.com; sit outside at picnic tables with estuary views; oysters only (barbecued or raw), with crackers or bread; beer and wine.
Nick’s Cove – 23240 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-1033; nickscove.com; on bay; chowder house.
Olema Inn & Restaurant – 10000 Sir Frances Drake Boulevard (Olema); 415-663-9559; theolemainn.com; romantic candle-lit restaurant; features local produce and meats; try Bellwether Farms ricotta gnocchi with pine nuts and sage brown butter, duck confit and apple ravioli in sherry reduction, and/or grilled, center-cut Niman Ranch pork chop with cider glaze; much produce grown at inn’s organic garden and orchard.
Osteria Stellina – 11285 Highway 1 North (Point Reyes); 415-663-9988; osteriastellina.com; elegantly yet simply furnished; attentive service; comfort and modern American cuisine.
Sand Dollar Restaurant – 3458 California 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-0434; stinsonbeachrestaurant.com; expansive deck; sometimes has live music.

Shopping
Epicenter – 9960 California 1 North (Olema); 415-663-1239; hippie women’s wear.
Gallery Route One – 11101 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1347; galleryrouteone.org; alternative art gallery.
Point Reyes Books – 11315 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1542; ptreyesbooks.com.
Spirit Matters – 12307 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-8699; facebook.com/spiritmatters; eclectic boutique selling “oddities and deities”; found materials used in garden and store; books, incense, etc.
Toby’s Feed Barn – 11250 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1223; tobysfeedbarn.com; general store.
Vita Collage – 11101 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1160; vitacollage.com; home accessories boutique.
Zuma – 11265 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1748; ethnic handicrafts and jewelry.

Sights & Sites
Bolinas Art Museum – 48 Wharf Road (Bolinas); 415-868-0330; bolinasmuseum.org.
Cypress Grove Research Center – 20545 State Route 1 North (Marshall); 415-663-8203; egret.org; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.
Martin Griffin Preserve (formerly Bolinas Lagoon Preserve) – 4900 Shoreline Highway 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-9244; egret.org; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.
Point Reyes National Seashore – 1 Bear Valley Road (Point Reyes Station); 415-464-5100; nps.gov/pore; 71K-acre park preserve located on Point Reyes Peninsula; nationally important nature preserve within which existing agricultural uses allowed to continue (historic ranching and oyster farming); beaches listed as cleanest in state in 2010; worth special trip for walk to lighthouse.


SAN RAFAEL
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Arizmendi Bakery – 1002 4th Street; 415-456-4093; arizmendibakery.org; worker-managed, cooperative bakery specializing in breads and morning pastries; closed Mondays.
Double Rainbow – 860 4th Street; 415-457-0803; doublerainbow.com; old-fashioned location (on Main-ish Street) and old-fashioned touches (stools at soda fountain), but funky modern vibe; generous portions of ice cream in large variety flavors.

Restaurants
Arizmendi Bakery – 1002 4th Street; 415-456-4093; arizmendibakery.org; worker-managed, cooperative bakery; pizza; closed Mondays.
Double Rainbow – 860 4th Street; 415-457-0803; doublerainbow.com; old-fashioned location (on Main-ish Street) and old-fashioned touches (stools at soda fountain), but funky modern breakfast and lunch.
Sol Food La Bodega – 903 Lincoln Avenue; 415-451-4765; solfoodrestaurant.com; Puerto Rican.

Shopping
Masterweavers – 901 4th Street; 415-455-9653; handwoven and machine-woven area rugs.
San Rafael Luggage Center – 871 4th Street; 415- 459-0181; durableluggage.com; business cases, fine luggage, and travel accessories for serious travelers.

Sights & Sites
Tennessee Valley Trail – Tennessee Valley Road (in Golden Gate National Recreation Area); 415-331-1540 (Marin Headlands Visitor Center); nps.gov/goga/planyourvisit/tennessee_valley.htm; from Highway 101, take Mill Valley-Stinson Beach-Highway 1 exit and turn left onto Tennessee Valley Road from Shoreline Highway; follow to parking lot and trailhead; offers beautiful rugged coastline views along Marin Headlands; easy, level access to beach and ocean; 3.8 miles; can get windy.



SAUSALITO
Bars & Nightclubs
Bocce Bar – 1250 Bridgeway; 415-331-0555; barbocce.com; sit outside, weather permitting; primarily for wine.

Hotels
Casa Madrona – 801 Bridgeway; 415-332-0502 or 800-288-0502; casamadrona.com.

Restaurants
Bocce Bar – 1250 Bridgeway; 415-331-0555; barbocce.com; sit outside, weather permitting; pizza and desserts.
Feng Nian – 2650 Bridgeway; 415-331-5300; fengnian.com; Chinese.
Fish Restaurant – 350 Harbor Drive; 415-331-3474; 331fish.com; dedicated to sustainable seafood; tiny shack on water where you eat at picnic tables; Zagat rates it 24/30.
Le Garage Bistro – 85 Liberty Ship Way; 415-332-5625; legaragesausalito.com; do not be thrown by name; French food on docks.
Poggio – 777 Bridgeway (at Casa Madrona); 415-332-7771; poggiotrattoria.com; classic Italian trattoria food with indoor and outdoor seating; service is often hostile and sometimes nonexistent; food is worth the hassle.
Spinnaker – 100 Spinnaker Drive; 415-332-1500; thespinnaker.com; dramatic location, jutting out over water, with every table having splendid view; interior is 1970s drab; food is surprisingly good, but simple, time-honored, American dishes; seafood emphasis.

Services
Lili’s Salon – 219 Caledonia Street; 415-332-8700; lilissalon.com; hair, make-up, and nails.

Shopping
Heath Ceramics – 400 Gate Five Road; 415-332-3732; heathceramics.com; factory headquarters and outlet.



TIBURON (includes Belvedere Tiburon)
Hotels
Lodge at Tiburon – 1651 Tiburon Boulevard; 415-435-5996; lodgeattiburon.com.
Lodge at Tiburon – 1651 Tiburon Boulevard; 415-435-3133 or 800-762-7770; lodgeattiburon.com.
Water’s Edge Hotel – 25 Main Street; 415-789-5999 or 888-662-9555; watersedgehotel.com.

Restaurants
Caprice – 2000 Paradise Drive; 415-435-3400; thecaprice.com; beautiful waterfront restaurant; French.
Sam’s Anchor Cafe – 27 Main Street; 415-435-4527; samscafe.com; favorite waterfront restaurant.

Shopping
Strawberry Village – Redwood Highway Frontage Road (US Highway 101, Tiburon Boulevard Exit; 415-388-4460, ext. 487; strawberryvillage.com; high-end-ish outdoor shopping.

Sights & Sites
Angel Island State Park – San Francisco Bay (off Tiburon, from where take ferry); 415-435-5390; parks.ca.gov/?page_id=468.
Paradise Beach Park – 3450 Paradise Drive; 415-435-9212; marincountyparks.org; pier, Redwoods, sandy beach, grassy expanses; perfect for picnics.