Wednesday, March 1, 2017


Sights & Sites
Richat Structure – Sahara Desert; 011-20-112-295-7242; ; long considered impact structure, now believed by most to be structural dome; sedimentary rock exposed in this dome ranges in age from Late Proterozoic within center to Ordovician sandstone around its edges.

Sunday, September 6, 2015


(does not includes Mendocino Coast; does include Cloverdale, Freestone, Geyserville, Glen Ellen, Guerneville, Healdsburg, Kenwood, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Sebastopol, Sonoma & Windsor)

Sights & Sites
Cloverdale Arts Alliance – 105 East 1st (town square, next to farmers’ market); 707-894-4410;; free summer concerts in evening.

Osmosis Day Spa – 209 Bohemian Highway; 707-823-8231;

Rustic – 300 Via Archimedes (at Francis Ford Coppola Winery); 707-857-1471;; traditional Italian fare.

Sights & Sites
Francis Ford Coppola Winery – 300 Via Archimedes; 707-857-1471;; 88-acre estate with restaurant and 2 outdoor pools.

Sights & Sites
Bouverie Preserve – 13935 Sonoma Highway; 707-938-4554;; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.

GUERNEVILLE (includes Forestville)
Bars & Nightclubs
Boon Eat + Drink – 16248 Main Street; 707-869-0780;

Boon Hotel + Spa – 14711 Armstrong Woods Road; 707-869-2721;; courtyard centered around pool; rooms on 6' stilts above Russian River flood-plain; modern decor.
Farmhouse Inn – 7871 River Road (Forestville); 707-887-3300;; boutique hotel attached to 1 Michelin star restaurant.
West Sonoma Inn & Spa – 14100 Brookside Lane; 707-869-2874 or 800-551-1881; recently renovated.

Applewood Inn – 13555 Highway 116; 707-869-9093 or 800-555-8509;
Boon Eat + Drink – 16248 Main Street; 707-869-0780;
Farmhouse – 7871 River Road (Forestville); 707-887-3300;; 1 Michelin star.
Garden Grill – 17132 Highway 116; 707-869-3922; barbecue, breakfast, and brunch; small patio in back.

Farmhouse Spa – 7871 River Road (Forestville); 707-887-3300;
King’s Sport & Tackle – 16258 Main Street; 707-869-2156;; sporting goods store that arranges kayaking trips on Russian River.

[big bottom market] – 16228 Main Street; 707-604-7295;; general goods store (groceries, etc.).
King’s Sport & Tackle – 16258 Main Street; 707-869-2156;; sporting goods store.

Sights & Sites
Armstrong Redwoods State National Reserve – 17000 Armstrong Woods Road; 707-869-2015;; among last surviving redwood giants.

Bars & Nightclubs
Bear Republic Brewing Co. – 345 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-2337;; microbrewery.
Cyrus – 29 North Street; 707-433-3311;; tasting menu only except in bar.

DuChamp Hotel – 421 Foss Street; 707-431-1300 or 800-431-1300;; contemporary and luxurious; feels like private club.
Grape Leaf Inn – 539 Johnson Street; 707-433-8140;
Hotel Healdsburg – 25 Matheson Street; 707-431-2800 or 800-889-7188;; beautiful; super modern.
h2Hotel – 219 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-922-5251;; 36 rooms; solar heated; great bar.

Barndiva – 231 Center Street; 707-431-0100;; exclusively uses local ingredients.
Bovolo – 106 Matheson Street; 707-431-2962;; Tuscan.
Cyrus – 29 North Street; 707-433-3311;; tasting menu only except in bar; considered French Laundry of Sonoma.

Hotel Healdsburg Spa – 25 Matheson Street; 707-431-2800;; try honey and wine body wrap.
Simple Touch Spa – 239 Center Street; 707-433-6856;

Arboretum – 332 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-7033;; organic cotton jeans and handbags made of vintage car fabrics.
Bella Winery & Caves – 9711 West Dry Creek Road; 707-473-9171;; winery.
Capture Gallery – 105 Plaza Street; 707-431-7030;; high-end photography.
Hawley Tasting Room & Gallery – 36 North Street; 707-473-9500;; Dana Hawley’s landscapes; husband is vintner.
Lime Stone – 315 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-3080;; culinary gifts.
Studio Barndiva – 237 Center Street; 707-431-7404;; textiles from women’s collectives in Ethiopia and Tibet.
Quivira Vineyard & Winery – 4900 West Dry Creek Road; 707-431-8333;; organic, wildflower honey.

Sights & Sites
Anderson Valley Wine Appellation – take Highway 128 to coast, which will pass through wine valley, along Navarro River banks to Highway 1.
Hand Fan Museum – 327a Healdsburg Avenue; 707-431-2500;
Healdsburg Center for Arts – 130 Plaza Street; 707-431-1970;; rotating displays of local and regional artists.
Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park – US Route 199 (9 miles east of Crescent City); 707-458-3018;; established in 1929; named after noted fur trapper Jedediah Smith, who visited its location during 1826 expedition; among 3 state parks cooperatively managed as part of Redwood National and State Parks; several hiking trails and day use area adjacent to campground, next to Smith River; Hiouchi Trail, Mill Creek Trail, Simpson Reed Discovery Trail and Stout Grove (which contains “Stout Tree,” largest in stand); Mill Creek flows through park and merges with Smith River.

Kenwood Inn & Spa – 10400 Sonoma Highway; 707-833-1293 or 800-353-6966;; among most highly regarded wine country resorts.

Bars & Nightclubs
Dempsey’s – 50 East Washington Street; 707-765-9694;; microbrewery.

Café Della Fattoria – 141 Petaluma Boulevard North; 707-763-0161;; organic bakery that bakes wide variety French breads in wood-burning ovens.

Bars & Nightclubs
Christy’s on Square – Old Courthouse Square; 707-528-8565;; older, sophisticated clientele.

Zazu Restaurant & Farm – 3535 Guerneville Road;; 707-523-4814 fresh, local market food.

Sights & Sites
Bohemian Highway – from Freestone (10 miles west of Santa Rosa), up to rural Monte Rio (home to Bohemian Grove).

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Many Rivers Books & Tea – 130 South Main Street; 707-829-8871;

Bars & Nightclubs
Hopmonk Tavern – 230 Petaluma Avenue; 707-829-7300;; live music.

Aubergine Vintage Emporium & Cafe – 755 Petaluma Avenue; 707-827-3460;; cafe, clothing store, and concert venue.
K&L Bistro – 119 South Main Street; 707-823-6614;; 1 Michelin star; bistro food.
Hopmonk Tavern – 230 Petaluma Avenue; 707-829-7300;; food and live music.
Peter Lowell’s – 7385 Healdsburg Avenue, Suite 101; 707-829-1077;; organic Italian restaurant.

Patrick Amiot – 382 Florence Avenue; 707-824-9388;; art.
Aubergine Vintage Emporium & Cafe – 755 Petaluma Avenue; 707-827-3460;; 8K' square vintage clothing.
Many Rivers Books & Tea – 130 South Main Street; 707-829-8871;; spiritually-themed bookstore.
Redwood Hill Farm – 2064 Highway 116 North; 707-823-8250;; dairy products.
Risk Press Gallery – 7345 Healdsburg Avenue;; non-profit space for emerging artists.
Rosemary’s Garden – 132 North Main Street; 707-829-2539;; herb shop.

Sights & Sites
Aubergine Vintage Emporium & Cafe – 755 Petaluma Avenue; 707-827-3460;; cafe, clothing store, and concert venue.
Sebastopol Center for Arts – 6780 Depot Street; 707-829-4797;; arts venue.
Sonoma County Repertory Theater – 104 North Main Street; 707-823-0177;; Shakespeare and newer plays, such as Neil LaBute.

Bars & Nightclubs
El Dorado Hotel – 405 1st Street West; 707-996-3220;; effortlessly glamorous; minimalist and sleek.

Carneros Inn – 4048 Sonoma Highway; 707-299-4900 or 888-400-9000;; haute agricultural architecture by way of tin-roofed cottages with porches; 25-minutes from St. Helena.
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn – 100 Boyes Boulevard; 866-540-4499 or 707-938-9000;
Ledson Hotel – 480 1st Street East (Sonoma Plaza); 707-996-9779 or 800-850-4370;; just 6 rooms, each with marble shower and whirlpool tub; expensive.
Sonoma Creek Inn – 239 Boyes Boulevard; 707-939-9463 or 888-712-1289;; combines bed & breakfast atmosphere with 1950s motel; most rooms with own small patio; affordable.

Girl & Fig – 400 West Spain Street; 707-933-3663;; regional Italian cuisine using Northern Californian ingredients; sit outside and have Spritzer; try porchetta and polenta in pork jus or Pacific rock cod with wood-roasted Yukon gold potatoes.
La Michoacana – 18495 Highway 12; 707-938-1773;; soft ice cream.
Sante – 100 Boyes Boulevard (at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa); 707-938-900;; American-French menu; Michelin star; try mac & cheese with lobster.

Sights & Sites
Sonoma City Opera – 484 East Napa Street; 707-939-8288;; concerts.

Mirepoix – 275 Windsor River Road (in Sonoma Country); 707-838-0162; French, bistro-style food.

Monday, March 23, 2015


(does not include Melbourne)

Hotels, Lodges & Resorts
Buckland Studio Retreat – 116 McCormack’s Lane (Bright); 011-61-4-1913-3318;

Loch Ard – Twelve Apostles Marine National Park (Port Campbell); 011-61-3-8627-4700;; square-rigged iron sailing ship.

Sights & Sites
Port Campbell National Park – Great Ocean Road; 011-61-3-8627-4700;; wave-sculpted rock formations (e.g., Twelve Apostles); Loch Ard Gorge is site of 19th Century shipwreck Loch Ard; hike Port Campbell Discovery Walk; includes Twelve Apostles Marine National Park.

Sunday, November 2, 2014


Academic Arrangements Abroad – 1040 Avenue of Americas (between 39th & 40th Streets); 212-302-3104;; discover coastal Turkey, narrated by academics.

Sights & Sites
Antalya Museum – Konyaalti Caddesi; 011-90-0242-241-4528;

Altintas – Elmali-Finike Road (follow Elmali signs); riverside restaurant notable for setting and pleasant meals.
Sights & Sites
Arycanda – Elmali-Finike Road (5 miles east of Kale);; ancient Lycian city, built upon 5 large terraces ascending mountain slope; sights include largest Lycian bath complex (lowest terrace), still virtually intact; in agora, some shops (eastern part) can still be seen; amphitheater, in excellent condition, built during 2nd Century; odeon including Emperor Hadrian portrait; stadium, from Hellenistic period, smaller than usual stadium; 2 necropolises, 1 with richly decorated funerary monuments; and bouleuterion, where council met.

Olympos – considered among top in Turkey.
Bayrams Tree Houses – Yazir Koyu Olympos Mevki Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca); 011-90-0242-892-1399;; tree houses; casual and for young crowd.
Zeus Pension – Yazir Koyu Olympos Mevki Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca);; family business offering 34 bungalows & 6 tree houses; run by Ferah and Ferruh (brothers) & Hatice (sister); brothers arrange tours, trekking & airport transfer, while Hatice is in kitchen, preparing meals; includes breakfast & dinner.
Muzo’s – on path to beach (just after ticket office); have cheese or spinach Turkish pancake (gözleme) while sitting on traditional Turkish lounges.
Sights & Sites
Beydağları Coastal National Park – Yazir Koyu Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca); 011-90-0242-345-1465 or 011-90-0242-814-1507;; national park stretches over 133 square miles; ancient settlements Idyros, Olympos & Phaselis within; beach and sea sports, picnic, camping, trekking, mountain climbing, paragliding, etc.

BOZCAADA ISLAND (in Greek, Tenedos) – 7 hours by bus & ferry from Istanbul
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368;; cafe, coffee, studio.


Kemerbag 29 – 29 Kemerbasi Mevkii; 011-90-0532-609-8339;; 4 cozy, homey rooms; pool; on 10 orchard and vineyard acres.
Otel Kaikias – Cumhuriyet Mahhallesi (Kale Arkasi Mevkii); 011-90-0286-697-0250;; boutique hotel with simple, whitewashed rooms; beach facilities at water’s edge overlook fortress.

Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368;; coffee.
Lodos – Cinar Carsi Caddesi; 011-90-0286-697-0545;; excellent mezes, like ahtapot fume (smoked octopus), cicek dolmasi (stuffed zucchini blossoms), and patlican salatasi (smoked eggplant puree).
Maya – Amerikan Çeşme Mevkii; 011-90-0532-421-7795;; breakfast, lunch, cocktails, and dinner at 4 tables in his home garden; breakfast especially good.

Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368;; art studio & gift shop.

Sights & Sites
Amadeus Vineyard – 9 Kumkuyu Mevkii (Canakkale);; vineyard.
Corvus Vineyard – Tuzburnu Mevkii; 011-90-0212-286-5880;; 3 shops in village and can visit vineyard by appointment.

Bozburun (includes Datca)
Sights & Sites
Saturday Market – Datca; good place to stock up on groceries: cheeses, herbs, honeys, produce.

Çeşme (includes Alaçatı)
Okan’s Place – Altınkum Mevkii; 011-90-0532-394-0131;; beach club that serves noshes.
Alavya – 3005 Sokak No. 6, Yeni Mecidiye Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-6632;; 6 Greek-era houses containing 25 rooms & suites, restaurant & bar, boutique & spa; terraces & gardens around mosaic-lined pool.
Hotel Nars Ilica – Tosun Pasa Yalisi 5066 Sokak No. 12 (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-729-0001;; converted, 19th Century mansion with 7 rooms.
Sudan Palas – 2012 Sokak No. 1-3, Hacimemis Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-7797;; 5-room guesthouse; chic.
Taş Otel – Kemalpaşa Caddesi No. 132, Yeni Mecidiye Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-7772;; 7-room, light-filled property; bougainvillea-fringed pool.
Alancha – 1036 Sokak No. 1, Tokoglu Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-8307;; ultra-modern in design & menu; Anatolian.
Asma Yaprağı (Vine Leaf) – 1005 Sokak No. 50, Tokoglu Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-0178;; old standby; slow-food, village-kitchen kind of place.
Seabird Airlines – 54 Bebek Yokuşu İnşirah Caddesi, Suite D2 (Beşiktaş; 011-90-212-310-2330;; offers transport in and out of Alaçatı from both Bodrum & Istanbul.
Bazen – 2012 Sokak No. 1-3, Hacimemis Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0532-292-4183;; concept store selling housewares, fashion & jewelry.
Kemeralti Bazaar – Anafartalar Caddesi, Febzipasa Bulvari Street, and surrounding streets; old marketplace; street maze filled with cafes, covered stalls, and shops; includes minimarkets dedicated to beads, jewelry, leather goods, musical instruments, songbirds, and many other treats; make sure to visit Kestane Pazari, miniature Spice Bazaar, which has decent selection coffee, spices, and tea stores, and whole slew confectioners.
Yastik – 1001 Sokak No. 2 (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-0280;; textile boutique.

Ephesus (near Selkuk; includes Tire)
Kaplan Dag Restoran – Kaplan Village (Tire); 011-90-0232-512-6652;; regional Turkish fare; try lor (ricotta-like cheese topped with fresh mulberry preserves).
Sights & Sights
House of Virgin Mary – Orman Yolu Park (from either Ephesus’ Upper or Lower entrances, follow signs to Meryemana); Virgin Mary’s final home; mostly dates from 6th-7th Century (foundations much older); small T-shaped stone building consists of bedroom and kitchen; spring under it believed to have healing properties; every August 15th (Feast of Mary’s Assumption), Catholic, Muslim, and Orthodox clergy conduct service together at shrine, 1 of rare occasions this happens anywhere.
St. John’s Basilica – entrance off St. Jean Sokak (just east of Isa Bey Cami Selcuk, on Ayasoluk Hill near Selcuk’s center);; constructed by Emperor Justinian in 6th Century; stands over St. John’s believed burial site; building completely destroyed in 1402 by Tamerlane’s Mongol army; restoration enables visitors to understand its size and visualize its former splendor (if fully restored, cathedral would be world’s 7th largest).
Temple of Artemis – Kusadasi;
turkey/ephesus-temple-of-artemis; completely rebuilt 3 times before eventual destruction in 401 by St. John Chrysostom; only foundations and sculptural fragments remain.

Yengec – İskele Mahallesi, 6 Sokak 2121; 011-90-0232-752-1152;; on harbor; 102 different mezes.

Amanruya – Bulent Ecevit Caddesi (Demir Mevkii, Golturkbuku; 011-90-0252-311-1212;
Kempinski Hotel Barbaros – Kizilagac Koyu (Gerenkuyu Mevkii Yaliciftlik); 011-90-0252-311-0303;
Maca Kizi Hotel – Kesireburnu Mevkii; 011-90-0252-377-6272;; best place to stay; pinnacle of chic; ask for rooms 862 and/or 872 or Villa 971.
Marmara Bodrum – Yokusbasi Mahallesi, Suluhasan Caddesi, 18; 011-90-0252-313-8130 or 011-90-0252-313-8135;; perched on cliff, high above city; beautiful pool; Small Luxury Hotel member.
Bodrum Market – next to bus station; every Tuesday.
Bodrum Sandalet – Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Hilmi Uran Meydani, 2; 011-90-0252-316-8497; handmade leather sandals.
EC Diamond – Marina Shopping Center, Bodrum Marina; 011-90-0252-316-6452; jewelry.
Gallery Mustafa – 48 Dr. Alim Ekinci Caddesi; 011-90-0252-313-1043;; carpets; lovely kilims.
Sights & Sites
Bodrum Castle – Kale Caddesi; 011-90-0252-316-2516;; built by Hospitallers.
Halicarnassus – Gumbet Yolu (on main road, just opposite Antique Theatre Hotel); 011-90-0252-316-8061;; just gated crumbling stone collection decade ago but, today, restored historic amphitheater; hilltop position overlooks Bodrum’s twin bays with concerts lighting up marble on summer’s eves; built by King Mausolus in 4th Century BCE, then enlarged in 2nd Century under Romans; rock tombs visible above theater; your leg-work will reveal inscriptions in seats (names of those who subsidized theater’s construction).
Mausoleum of Maussollos – Turgut Reis Caddesi (up hill, off Hamam Sokak); 011-90-0252-316-1219;; plundered Ancient World Wonder; only foundations remain; Caria King Mausolus ordered construction; finally completed in 350 BCE; tomb featured pillars supporting pyramid-shaped roof that appeared to float above structure; in 1522, earthquake caused monument to collapse; Hospitalers use stones for castle-chapel reconstruction.
Uluburun II – Kas; precise replica of world’s oldest shipwreck (2K BCE); sunk specifically for tourist divers.

Sights & Sites
Sovalye Island – pedestrian island surrounded by blue, clean, clear water.

Hisaronu (includes Kumlubuk, Marmaris & Selimiye)
D-Hotel Maris – Datca Yolu Road, km 35 (Hisaronu, Marmaris); 011-90-0252-441-2000;; high on stunning Datca Peninsula hillside, where Aegean & Mediterranean Seas meet; overlooks small islands, natural private sand beaches, pine forests & volcanic mountain ranges; luxurious rooms & suites.
Dionysos Hotel – Alic Mevkii (Kumlubuk); 011-90-0252-476-7957 or 011-90-0252-476-7958;; perched on canyon, terracotta-topped cottages clinging to mountainside high above Kumlubük, set amid fig, lemon, and olive trees, with views out to sea and of surrounding pine-clad peaks; restored mahogany-&-teak former lifeboat (Limon) on which up to 4 can enjoy intimate day at sea; infinity pool; owners Ahmet and Rim Senol manage this family-run estate; 22 rooms, 16 cottage suites and 4 villas, all with sea views; refurbished for 2011 in cool white and earth tones; cottage suites have outside space and each villa has private pool; book through Surrey-based Turkey specialist, Exclusive Escapes (011-44-020-8605-3500 and/or; 3 restaurants: Dionysos Terrace, where Didem Senol (celebrated Istanbul chef) offers Mediterranean-inspired menu; Dionysos Sea Club (light bites by day, formal fish restaurant by night); and Nar (12-course Turkish tasting menu); Decléor spa offers wheatgerm facials, stone massages, and - for those with an interest in mysticism - numerology readings; yoga classes.
Sardunya – Selimiye; 011-90-0252-446-4003;; low-key restaurant (no signage), with several rooms set around fruit-tree shaded garden; right on water.

Sights & Sites
Mustafa Pasha Tower – built in 1602.

Wednesday, October 29, 2014


Sights & Sites
Flaming Cliffs – Bayanzag (Bain-Dzak); among greatest dinosaur fossil sites in world.

ULAAN BAATAR (includes Nalaikh)
Terelj Hotel – Nalaikh; 011-976-9999-2233;

Sights & Sites
Gorkhi Terelj National Park – Terelj Village (27 kms outside);; magnificent alpine scenery; hiking, rock climbing, swimming (in icy-cold water), rafting & horse riding.

Monday, July 21, 2014


(includes Chapel Hill, Durham, Pittsboro, Raleigh & Wilson)

Counter Culture Coffee – 4911 South Alston Avenue (Durham); 919-361-5282;; open Friday mornings only for public “cuppings.”
Loaf – 111 West Parrish Street (Durham); 919-797-1254;; baked goods & coffee; notable for cumin gruyere loves.
Parlour – 117 Market Street (Durham); 919-627-7235;; homeade ice cream; try ice cream sandwiches, made with soft chocolate chip cookies and salted butter caramel ice cream.
Rue Cler – 401 East Chapel Hill Street (Durham); 919-682-8844;; bakery, café, and Parisian restaurant.
Scratch Bakery – 111 Orange Street (Durham); 919-956-5200;; bakery famous for pies.

Clockwork – 519 West North Street; 919-834-2211;; decor & patterns on wall stunning; huge gold statues & furniture are icing on cake; phenomenal cocktails with 70s theme.
Fox Liquor Bar – 237 South Wilmington Street (Raleigh); 919-322-0127;; boozy speakeasy.
Fullsteam Brewery – 726 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-682-2337;; cavernous bar; sit at picnic tables; food trucks nearby offer snacks.
Kotuku Surf Club – 703 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-294-9661;; notwithstanding name, no-frills, simple bar.
Mandolin Raleigh – 2519 Fairview Road (Raleigh); 919-322-0365;; cocktails.
Motorco Music Hall – 723 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-901-0875;; garage bar & music venue.
Whiskey – 347 West Main Street (Durham); 919-682-6191;; smoky speakeasy.

American Meltdown – 207 Conner Drive (Chapel Hill); 516-317-8395;; try Pigs & Figs sandwich.
Chirba Chirba Dumplings – Durham; 919-885-4328;; pork-filled buns.

Fearrington House – 2000 Fearrington Village Center (Pittsboro); 919-542-2121 or 800-277-0130;; English country hotel with French restaurant.
Durham – 315 East Chapel Hill Street; 919- or.
King’s Daughters’ Inn – 204 North Buchanan Boulevard (Durham); 919-354-7000;; building dates to 1920s; adjacent to Duke campus; 17 room boutique.
21C Durham – 111 North Corcoran Street; 919-956-6700 or 844-301-4629;
Washington Duke Inn & Golf Club – 3001 Cameron Boulevard (Durham); 919-490-0999;; grandest place in town; in English countrystyle.

Los Comales – 2103 North Roxboro Street (Durham); 919-220-1614;; authentic so down-at-heels; excellent agua frescas.
Counting House – 111 North Corcoran Street (at 21C Durham Hotel); 919-956-6760;
Crook’s Corner – 610 West Franklin Street (Chapel Hill); 919-929-7643;; in May, hope for Honeysuckle Sorbet.
Dame’s Chicken & Waffles – 317 West Main Street (Durham); 919-682-9235;; try Quilted Buttercup (fried chicken, sweet potato waffles, and maple-pecan butter schmear) & Triple Mac & Cheese.
Eno Restaurant & Market – 101 City Hall Plaza (Durham); 919-426-1622;; organic and biodynamic produce and meat from Holcomb’s farm.
Guglhupf – 2706 Durham-Chapel Hill Boulevard, #1 (Durham); 919-401-2600;; Bavarian brunch.
Lantern – 423 West Franklin Street (Chapel Hill); 919-969-8846;; Asian-Thai; considered by locals to be Chapel Hill’s best restaurant.
Magnolia Grill – 1002 9th Street (Durham); 919-286-3609;; #11 in Gourmet’s top American restaurants.
Mandolin Raleigh – 2519 Fairview Road (Raleigh); 919-322-0365;; new Southern cuisine.
Only Burger – 3710 Shannon Road (Durham); 919-937-9377;; highly regarded; also operates food truck.
Parker & Otis – 112 South Duke Street (Durham); 919-683-3200;; café and upscale foodie grocery.
Parker’s Barbecue – 2514 US Highway 301 South (Wilson); 252-237-0972; among country’s best BBQ restaurants.
Poole’s Diner – 426 South McDowell Street (Raleigh); 919-832-4477; high-end, diner-reminiscent food; try chess pie.
Revolution – 107 West Main Street (Durham); 919-956-9999;; squash tamales, macarpone gnocchi, and tuni with wasabi caviar.
Rose’s Meat Market & Sweet Shop – 121 North Gregson Street; 919-797-2233;; get lunch special AND dessert.
Rue Cler – 401 East Chapel Hill Street (Durham); 919-682-8844;; bakery, café, and Parisian restaurant.
Sandwich – 431 West Franklin Street, #16 (Chapel Hill); 919-929-2114‎;; try grass-fed beef meatloaf with crispy bacon and balsamic glaze.
Scratch – 111 Orange Street (Durham); 919-956-5200;; sunny bakery-café; both savory and sweet pies.
Toast – 345 West Main Street (Durham); 919-683-2183;; Italian sandwich shop.
Zely & Ritz – 301 Glenwood Avenue (Raleigh); 919-828-0018;; slow-food.

Synergy Spa – 2603 Glenwood Ave, #121C (Raleigh); 919-510-5130;; day spa.

Curatory – 319 West Martin Street (Raleigh); 919-917-8969;; jeans.
Durham Farmers’ Market – 501 Foster Street (Durham); 919-667-3099;; takes over pavilion at recently cleaned up Durham Central Park on Saturday mornings; seek out Loaf bakery stall, or Monuts Donuts.
Horse & Buggy Press – 401-B1 Foster Street (Durham); 919-949-4847;; in-house graphic design products.
LabourLove Gallery – 807 East Main Street (Durham); 919-373-4451;; glass, stone, and wood artworks.
Liberty Arts Gallery – 923 Franklin Street (Durham); 919-682-2673;; paintings & photography.
Niche Gardens – 1111 Dawson Road (Chapel Hill); 919-967-0078;; elegant nursery worth special trip.
Parker & Otis – 112 South Duke Street (Durham); 919-683-3200;; café and upscale foodie grocery.
Upfront Gallery – 401-B1 Foster Street (Durham); 919-949-4847;; local arts samplings; quirky.
Vert & Vogue – 905 West Main Street (Durham), #24b; 919-251-8537;; boutique in renovated tobacco warehouse; men’s wear.

Carolina Theater – 309 West Morgan Street (Durham); 919-560-3030;; classic, documentary, and indie movies.
Coker Arboretum – University of North Carolina, CB #3375, Totten Center (Chapel Hill); 919-962-0522;; shaded walkways in peaceful sanctuary on UNC campus.
Duke Chapel – 401 Chapel Drive (Durham); 919-681-9488;; gothic and stately.
Sara B. Duke Gardens – 420 Anderson Street (Durham); 919-684-3698;; 55 manicured acres.
Durham Performing Arts Center – 123 Vivian Street (Durham); 919-688-3722;
Fearrington Gardens – 2000 Fearrington Village Center (Pittsboro); 919-542-2121 (for private tours);
Magic Wings Butterfly House – 433 Murray Avenue (Durham); 919-220-5429;; part of North Carolina Museum of Life and Science; 100s butterflies fluttering under cathedral-like ceilings at conservatory; 20K square feet.
Manbites Dog Theater – 703 Foster Street (Durham); 919-682-4974;
Nasher Museum of Art – 2001 Campus Drive (Durham); 919-684-5135;; several modern, monolithic structures; focus is on contemporary art.
North Carolina Museum of Art – 2110 Blue Ridge Road (Raleigh); 919-839-6262;

Sunday, July 20, 2014


Bars & Nightclubs
Smiley’s Schooner Saloon – 41 Wharf Road; 415-868-1311;; established 1851.

Il Fornaio – 223 Corte Madera Town Center; 415-927-4400;; Italian.

Good Earth Natural Foods – 720 Center Boulevard; 415-454-0123;; grocery store opened in 1969; stocks mostly natural or organic foods; designated area in front for chatting, drinking, eating, and sitting.

Bars & Nightclubs
Farley Bar – Cavallo Point, Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700; does not live up to promise.

Cavallo Point – Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700 or 888-651-2003;; 68 rooms in restored officers’ quarters (older nostalgia, some with gas fireplaces); 74 rooms in new buildings; new rooms have unparalleled views; spa; restaurant, Murray Circle, and bar, Farley Bar do not live up to promise.

Murray Circle – Cavallo Point, Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700; does not live up to promise.

Sights & Sites
Fort Baker – Bunker Road (Golden Gate National Recreation Area); 415-375-8281 (cell phone tour);; call for walking tour info.

Manka’s Inverness Lodge – 30 Callendar Way; 415-669-1034;; wondrous collection of estates from early 1900s; main property holds 2 redwood cabins, annex, and old fishing-hunting lodge, all of which look like something out of Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale; 16' ceilings, wide plank floors, views over Tomales Bay, and spaciousness lend rooms in converted 1991 boathouse loftlike feel; cabins have double-ended tubs and private outdoor showers opening up to sky; 3- or 4-course fireside supper or private chef's meal (in their own accommodation); all ingredients farmed, fished, gathered, and/or grown within reach of lodge.
Osprey Peak Bed & Breakfast – 10 Miwak Way (Inverness); 415-669-1467;; farmhouse-like inn (ryokan); near Point Reyes.

Saltwater Oyster Depot – 12781 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard; 415-669-1244;; Luc Chamberland’s new cafe.

Bars & Nightclubs
Buckeye Roadhouse – 15 Shoreline Highway; 415-331-2600;; Aspen-like lodge with fireplace.

Muir Beach – Highway 1; 415-388-2596;; beach closed to visitors from July 7 through November.

Acqua Hotel – 555 Redwood Highway; 415-380-0400 or 888-662-9555;
Mill Valley Inn – 165 Throckmorton Avenue; 415-389-6608 or 800-276-7415;

Balboa Cafe – 38 Miller Avenue; 415-381-7321;
Buckeye Roadhouse – 15 Shoreline Highway; 415-331-2600;; Aspen-like lodge with fireplace; notable for prime rib.
El Paseo – 17 Throckmorton Avenue; 415-388-0741;; open since 1947; owned by Tyler Florence and Sammy Hagar; French steakhouse.
Tamalpie Pizza – 477 Miller Avenue; 415-388-7437;; eat-in or take-out; hand-crafted pizzas and salads; high-end.

Sights & Sites
West Point Inn – 100 Old Railroad Grade Fire Road; 415-388-9955;; 2 hour hike from Mill Valley up crooked railroad right-of-way; secluded among trees on Mt. Tamalpais upper south slope; once stopover for “Crookedest Railroad in World” passengers, up from Mill Valley; now haven for hikers; sweeping panoramic view includes East Bay, San Francisco, Marin Headlands, 1 Golden Gate Bridge tower, and out over Pacific Ocean.

Hilltop 1892 – 850 Lamont Avenue; 415-893-1892;; Michelin-recommended.

POINT REYES (includes Bolinas, Marshall, Olema, Point Reyes, Point Reyes Station & Stinson Beach)

Nick’s Cove & Cottages – 23240 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-1033;; on skinny, Point Reyes peninsula; 5 waterfront cottages on pristine Tomales Bay; try to get “Big Rock” cabin; some room service.
Olema Inn & Restaurant – 10,000 Sir Frances Drake Boulevard (Olema); 415-663-9559;; near Point Reyes; opened on July 4, 1876, lost as gambling debt, and survived 1906 earthquake (Olema was epicenter); today combines modern luxuries with antique furniture and light fixtures; views are of beautiful back garden – wedding site – and Olema Valley; stroll on stone pathways behind inn to orchard and flower gardens; try to reserve #3 – quietest room, overlooking garden.
Breakers Café – 3465 Highway 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-2002;; great breakfast, brunch and lunch spot; huge bloody marys with extravagant garnishes, fresh local produce, and wood-burning stove.
Hog Island Oyster Co. – 20215 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-9218;; sit outside at picnic tables with estuary views; oysters only (barbecued or raw), with crackers or bread; beer and wine.
Nick’s Cove – 23240 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-1033;; on bay; chowder house.
Olema Inn & Restaurant – 10000 Sir Frances Drake Boulevard (Olema); 415-663-9559;; romantic candle-lit restaurant; features local produce and meats; try Bellwether Farms ricotta gnocchi with pine nuts and sage brown butter, duck confit and apple ravioli in sherry reduction, and/or grilled, center-cut Niman Ranch pork chop with cider glaze; much produce grown at inn’s organic garden and orchard.
Osteria Stellina – 11285 Highway 1 North (Point Reyes); 415-663-9988;; elegantly yet simply furnished; attentive service; comfort and modern American cuisine.
Sand Dollar Restaurant – 3458 California 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-0434;; expansive deck; sometimes has live music.

Epicenter – 9960 California 1 North (Olema); 415-663-1239; hippie women’s wear.
Gallery Route One – 11101 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1347;; alternative art gallery.
Point Reyes Books – 11315 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1542;
Spirit Matters – 12307 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-8699;; eclectic boutique selling “oddities and deities”; found materials used in garden and store; books, incense, etc.
Toby’s Feed Barn – 11250 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1223;; general store.
Vita Collage – 11101 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1160;; home accessories boutique.
Zuma – 11265 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1748; ethnic handicrafts and jewelry.

Sights & Sites
Bolinas Art Museum – 48 Wharf Road (Bolinas); 415-868-0330;
Cypress Grove Research Center – 20545 State Route 1 North (Marshall); 415-663-8203;; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.
Martin Griffin Preserve (formerly Bolinas Lagoon Preserve) – 4900 Shoreline Highway 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-9244;; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.
Point Reyes National Seashore – 1 Bear Valley Road (Point Reyes Station); 415-464-5100;; 71K-acre park preserve located on Point Reyes Peninsula; nationally important nature preserve within which existing agricultural uses allowed to continue (historic ranching and oyster farming); beaches listed as cleanest in state in 2010; worth special trip for walk to lighthouse.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Arizmendi Bakery – 1002 4th Street; 415-456-4093;; worker-managed, cooperative bakery specializing in breads and morning pastries; closed Mondays.
Double Rainbow – 860 4th Street; 415-457-0803;; old-fashioned location (on Main-ish Street) and old-fashioned touches (stools at soda fountain), but funky modern vibe; generous portions of ice cream in large variety flavors.

Arizmendi Bakery – 1002 4th Street; 415-456-4093;; worker-managed, cooperative bakery; pizza; closed Mondays.
Double Rainbow – 860 4th Street; 415-457-0803;; old-fashioned location (on Main-ish Street) and old-fashioned touches (stools at soda fountain), but funky modern breakfast and lunch.
Sol Food La Bodega – 903 Lincoln Avenue; 415-451-4765;; Puerto Rican.

Masterweavers – 901 4th Street; 415-455-9653; handwoven and machine-woven area rugs.
San Rafael Luggage Center – 871 4th Street; 415- 459-0181;; business cases, fine luggage, and travel accessories for serious travelers.

Sights & Sites
Tennessee Valley Trail – Tennessee Valley Road (in Golden Gate National Recreation Area); 415-331-1540 (Marin Headlands Visitor Center);; from Highway 101, take Mill Valley-Stinson Beach-Highway 1 exit and turn left onto Tennessee Valley Road from Shoreline Highway; follow to parking lot and trailhead; offers beautiful rugged coastline views along Marin Headlands; easy, level access to beach and ocean; 3.8 miles; can get windy.

Bars & Nightclubs
Bocce Bar – 1250 Bridgeway; 415-331-0555;; sit outside, weather permitting; primarily for wine.

Casa Madrona – 801 Bridgeway; 415-332-0502 or 800-288-0502;

Bocce Bar – 1250 Bridgeway; 415-331-0555;; sit outside, weather permitting; pizza and desserts.
Feng Nian – 2650 Bridgeway; 415-331-5300;; Chinese.
Fish Restaurant – 350 Harbor Drive; 415-331-3474;; dedicated to sustainable seafood; tiny shack on water where you eat at picnic tables; Zagat rates it 24/30.
Le Garage Bistro – 85 Liberty Ship Way; 415-332-5625;; do not be thrown by name; French food on docks.
Poggio – 777 Bridgeway (at Casa Madrona); 415-332-7771;; classic Italian trattoria food with indoor and outdoor seating; service is often hostile and sometimes nonexistent; food is worth the hassle.
Spinnaker – 100 Spinnaker Drive; 415-332-1500;; dramatic location, jutting out over water, with every table having splendid view; interior is 1970s drab; food is surprisingly good, but simple, time-honored, American dishes; seafood emphasis.

Lili’s Salon – 219 Caledonia Street; 415-332-8700;; hair, make-up, and nails.

Heath Ceramics – 400 Gate Five Road; 415-332-3732;; factory headquarters and outlet.

TIBURON (includes Belvedere Tiburon)
Lodge at Tiburon – 1651 Tiburon Boulevard; 415-435-5996;
Lodge at Tiburon – 1651 Tiburon Boulevard; 415-435-3133 or 800-762-7770;
Water’s Edge Hotel – 25 Main Street; 415-789-5999 or 888-662-9555;

Caprice – 2000 Paradise Drive; 415-435-3400;; beautiful waterfront restaurant; French.
Sam’s Anchor Cafe – 27 Main Street; 415-435-4527;; favorite waterfront restaurant.

Strawberry Village – Redwood Highway Frontage Road (US Highway 101, Tiburon Boulevard Exit; 415-388-4460, ext. 487;; high-end-ish outdoor shopping.

Sights & Sites
Angel Island State Park – San Francisco Bay (off Tiburon, from where take ferry); 415-435-5390;
Paradise Beach Park – 3450 Paradise Drive; 415-435-9212;; pier, Redwoods, sandy beach, grassy expanses; perfect for picnics.