Sunday, September 6, 2015

SONOMA WINE REGION

(does not includes Mendocino Coast; does include Cloverdale, Freestone, Geyserville, Glen Ellen, Guerneville, Healdsburg, Kenwood, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Sebastopol, Sonoma & Windsor)

CLOVERDALE
Sights & Sites
Cloverdale Arts Alliance – 105 East 1st (town square, next to farmers’ market); 707-894-4410; cloverdaleartsalliance.org; free summer concerts in evening.



FREESTONE
Services
Osmosis Day Spa – 209 Bohemian Highway; 707-823-8231; osmosis.com.



GEYSERVILLE
Restaurants
Rustic – 300 Via Archimedes (at Francis Ford Coppola Winery); 707-857-1471; franciscoppolawinery.com; traditional Italian fare.

Sights & Sites
Francis Ford Coppola Winery – 300 Via Archimedes; 707-857-1471; franciscoppolawinery.com; 88-acre estate with restaurant and 2 outdoor pools.



GLEN ELLEN
Sights & Sites
Bouverie Preserve – 13935 Sonoma Highway; 707-938-4554; egret.org; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.



GUERNEVILLE (includes Forestville)
Bars & Nightclubs
Boon Eat + Drink – 16248 Main Street; 707-869-0780; eatatboon.com.

Hotels
Boon Hotel + Spa – 14711 Armstrong Woods Road; 707-869-2721; boonhotels.com; courtyard centered around pool; rooms on 6' stilts above Russian River flood-plain; modern decor.
Farmhouse Inn – 7871 River Road (Forestville); 707-887-3300; farmhouseinn.com; boutique hotel attached to 1 Michelin star restaurant.
West Sonoma Inn & Spa – 14100 Brookside Lane; 707-869-2874 or 800-551-1881; recently renovated.

Restaurants
Applewood Inn – 13555 Highway 116; 707-869-9093 or 800-555-8509; applewoodinn.com.
Boon Eat + Drink – 16248 Main Street; 707-869-0780; eatatboon.com.
Farmhouse – 7871 River Road (Forestville); 707-887-3300; farmhouseinn.com; 1 Michelin star.
Garden Grill – 17132 Highway 116; 707-869-3922; barbecue, breakfast, and brunch; small patio in back.

Services
Farmhouse Spa – 7871 River Road (Forestville); 707-887-3300; farmhouseinn.com.
King’s Sport & Tackle – 16258 Main Street; 707-869-2156; kingsrussianriver.com; sporting goods store that arranges kayaking trips on Russian River.

Shopping
[big bottom market] – 16228 Main Street; 707-604-7295; bigbottommarket.com; general goods store (groceries, etc.).
King’s Sport & Tackle – 16258 Main Street; 707-869-2156; kingsrussianriver.com; sporting goods store.

Sights & Sites
Armstrong Redwoods State National Reserve – 17000 Armstrong Woods Road; 707-869-2015; parks.ca.gov/?page_id=450; among last surviving redwood giants.



HEALDSBURG
Bars & Nightclubs
Bear Republic Brewing Co. – 345 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-2337; bearrepublic.com; microbrewery.
Cyrus – 29 North Street; 707-433-3311; cyrusrestaurant.com; tasting menu only except in bar.

Hotels
DuChamp Hotel – 421 Foss Street; 707-431-1300 or 800-431-1300; duchamphotel.com; contemporary and luxurious; feels like private club.
Grape Leaf Inn – 539 Johnson Street; 707-433-8140; grapeleafinn.com.
Hotel Healdsburg – 25 Matheson Street; 707-431-2800 or 800-889-7188; hotelhealdsburg.com; beautiful; super modern.
h2Hotel – 219 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-922-5251; hthotel.com; 36 rooms; solar heated; great bar.

Restaurants
Barndiva – 231 Center Street; 707-431-0100; barndiva.com; exclusively uses local ingredients.
Bovolo – 106 Matheson Street; 707-431-2962; bovolorestaurant.com; Tuscan.
Cyrus – 29 North Street; 707-433-3311; cyrusrestaurant.com; tasting menu only except in bar; considered French Laundry of Sonoma.

Services
Hotel Healdsburg Spa – 25 Matheson Street; 707-431-2800; hotelhealdsburg.com; try honey and wine body wrap.
Simple Touch Spa – 239 Center Street; 707-433-6856; asimpletouchspa.com.

Shopping
Arboretum – 332 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-7033; arboretumapparel.com; organic cotton jeans and handbags made of vintage car fabrics.
Bella Winery & Caves – 9711 West Dry Creek Road; 707-473-9171; bellawinery.com; winery.
Capture Gallery – 105 Plaza Street; 707-431-7030; capturefineart.com; high-end photography.
Hawley Tasting Room & Gallery – 36 North Street; 707-473-9500; hawleywine.com; Dana Hawley’s landscapes; husband is vintner.
Lime Stone – 315 Healdsburg Avenue; 707-433-3080; limestonehealdsburg.com; culinary gifts.
Studio Barndiva – 237 Center Street; 707-431-7404; studiobarndiva.com; textiles from women’s collectives in Ethiopia and Tibet.
Quivira Vineyard & Winery – 4900 West Dry Creek Road; 707-431-8333; quiviraqwine.com; organic, wildflower honey.

Sights & Sites
Anderson Valley Wine Appellation – take Highway 128 to coast, which will pass through wine valley, along Navarro River banks to Highway 1.
Hand Fan Museum – 327a Healdsburg Avenue; 707-431-2500; handfanmuseum.com.
Healdsburg Center for Arts – 130 Plaza Street; 707-431-1970; healdsburgcenterforthearts.com; rotating displays of local and regional artists.
Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park – US Route 199 (9 miles east of Crescent City); 707-458-3018; parks.ca.gov/?page_id=413; established in 1929; named after noted fur trapper Jedediah Smith, who visited its location during 1826 expedition; among 3 state parks cooperatively managed as part of Redwood National and State Parks; several hiking trails and day use area adjacent to campground, next to Smith River; Hiouchi Trail, Mill Creek Trail, Simpson Reed Discovery Trail and Stout Grove (which contains “Stout Tree,” largest in stand); Mill Creek flows through park and merges with Smith River.



KENWOOD
Hotels
Kenwood Inn & Spa – 10400 Sonoma Highway; 707-833-1293 or 800-353-6966; kenwoodinn.com; among most highly regarded wine country resorts.



PETALUMA
Bars & Nightclubs
Dempsey’s – 50 East Washington Street; 707-765-9694; dempseys.com; microbrewery.

Restaurants
Café Della Fattoria – 141 Petaluma Boulevard North; 707-763-0161; dellafattoria.com; organic bakery that bakes wide variety French breads in wood-burning ovens.



SANTA ROSA
Bars & Nightclubs
Christy’s on Square – Old Courthouse Square; 707-528-8565; christysonthesquare.com; older, sophisticated clientele.

Restaurants
Zazu Restaurant & Farm – 3535 Guerneville Road; zazurestaurant.com; 707-523-4814 fresh, local market food.

Sights & Sites
Bohemian Highway – from Freestone (10 miles west of Santa Rosa), up to rural Monte Rio (home to Bohemian Grove).



SEBASTOPOL
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Many Rivers Books & Tea – 130 South Main Street; 707-829-8871; manyriversbooks.com.

Bars & Nightclubs
Hopmonk Tavern – 230 Petaluma Avenue; 707-829-7300; hopmonk.com; live music.

Restaurants
Aubergine Vintage Emporium & Cafe – 755 Petaluma Avenue; 707-827-3460; aubergineafterdark.com; cafe, clothing store, and concert venue.
K&L Bistro – 119 South Main Street; 707-823-6614; klbistro.com; 1 Michelin star; bistro food.
Hopmonk Tavern – 230 Petaluma Avenue; 707-829-7300; hopmonk.com; food and live music.
Peter Lowell’s – 7385 Healdsburg Avenue, Suite 101; 707-829-1077; peterlowells.com; organic Italian restaurant.

Shopping
Patrick Amiot – 382 Florence Avenue; 707-824-9388; patrickamiot.com; art.
Aubergine Vintage Emporium & Cafe – 755 Petaluma Avenue; 707-827-3460; aubergineafterdark.com; 8K' square vintage clothing.
Many Rivers Books & Tea – 130 South Main Street; 707-829-8871; manyriversbooks.com; spiritually-themed bookstore.
Redwood Hill Farm – 2064 Highway 116 North; 707-823-8250; redwoodhill.com; dairy products.
Risk Press Gallery – 7345 Healdsburg Avenue; riskpress.com; non-profit space for emerging artists.
Rosemary’s Garden – 132 North Main Street; 707-829-2539; rosemarysgarden.com; herb shop.

Sights & Sites
Aubergine Vintage Emporium & Cafe – 755 Petaluma Avenue; 707-827-3460; aubergineafterdark.com; cafe, clothing store, and concert venue.
Sebastopol Center for Arts – 6780 Depot Street; 707-829-4797; sebarts.org; arts venue.
Sonoma County Repertory Theater – 104 North Main Street; 707-823-0177; the-rep.com; Shakespeare and newer plays, such as Neil LaBute.



SONOMA
Bars & Nightclubs
El Dorado Hotel – 405 1st Street West; 707-996-3220; eldoradosonoma.com; effortlessly glamorous; minimalist and sleek.

Hotels
Carneros Inn – 4048 Sonoma Highway; 707-299-4900 or 888-400-9000; thecarnerosinn.com; haute agricultural architecture by way of tin-roofed cottages with porches; 25-minutes from St. Helena.
Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn – 100 Boyes Boulevard; 866-540-4499 or 707-938-9000; fairmont.com/sonoma.
Ledson Hotel – 480 1st Street East (Sonoma Plaza); 707-996-9779 or 800-850-4370; ledsonhotel.com; just 6 rooms, each with marble shower and whirlpool tub; expensive.
Sonoma Creek Inn – 239 Boyes Boulevard; 707-939-9463 or 888-712-1289; sonomacreekinn.com; combines bed & breakfast atmosphere with 1950s motel; most rooms with own small patio; affordable.

Restaurants
Girl & Fig – 400 West Spain Street; 707-933-3663; thegirlandthefig.com; regional Italian cuisine using Northern Californian ingredients; sit outside and have Spritzer; try porchetta and polenta in pork jus or Pacific rock cod with wood-roasted Yukon gold potatoes.
La Michoacana – 18495 Highway 12; 707-938-1773; facebook.com/pages/La-Michoacana-paleteria-y-neveria/133941356675189; soft ice cream.
Sante – 100 Boyes Boulevard (at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa); 707-938-900; fairmont.com/sonoma; American-French menu; Michelin star; try mac & cheese with lobster.

Sights & Sites
Sonoma City Opera – 484 East Napa Street; 707-939-8288; sonomaopera.org; concerts.



WINDSOR
Restaurants
Mirepoix – 275 Windsor River Road (in Sonoma Country); 707-838-0162; French, bistro-style food.

Monday, March 23, 2015

AUSTRALIA-VICTORIA

(does not include Melbourne)

BUCKLAND VALLEY
Hotels, Lodges & Resorts
Buckland Studio Retreat – 116 McCormack’s Lane (Bright); 011-61-4-1913-3318; thebuckland.com.au.



PORT CAMPBELL
Dives
Loch Ard – Twelve Apostles Marine National Park (Port Campbell); 011-61-3-8627-4700; parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/twelve-apostles-marine-national-park; square-rigged iron sailing ship.

Sights & Sites
Port Campbell National Park – Great Ocean Road; 011-61-3-8627-4700; parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/port-campbell-national-park; wave-sculpted rock formations (e.g., Twelve Apostles); Loch Ard Gorge is site of 19th Century shipwreck Loch Ard; hike Port Campbell Discovery Walk; includes Twelve Apostles Marine National Park.

Sunday, November 2, 2014

TURKISH RIVIERA

TOURS
Academic Arrangements Abroad – 1040 Avenue of Americas (between 39th & 40th Streets); 212-302-3104; arrangementsabroad.com; discover coastal Turkey, narrated by academics.



ANTALYA PROVINCE
Antalya
Sights & Sites
Antalya Museum – Konyaalti Caddesi; 011-90-0242-241-4528; kultur.gov.tr/EN/belge/2-19912/eski2yeni.html.

Aykiricay
Restaurants
Altintas – Elmali-Finike Road (follow Elmali signs); riverside restaurant notable for setting and pleasant meals.
Sights & Sites
Arycanda – Elmali-Finike Road (5 miles east of Kale); lycianturkey.com/lycian_sites/arycanda.htm; ancient Lycian city, built upon 5 large terraces ascending mountain slope; sights include largest Lycian bath complex (lowest terrace), still virtually intact; in agora, some shops (eastern part) can still be seen; amphitheater, in excellent condition, built during 2nd Century; odeon including Emperor Hadrian portrait; stadium, from Hellenistic period, smaller than usual stadium; 2 necropolises, 1 with richly decorated funerary monuments; and bouleuterion, where council met.

Olympos
Beaches
Olympos – considered among top in Turkey.
Hotels
Bayrams Tree Houses – Yazir Koyu Olympos Mevki Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca); 011-90-0242-892-1399; bayrams.com/En; tree houses; casual and for young crowd.
Zeus Pension – Yazir Koyu Olympos Mevki Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca); ferahzeus@yahoo.com; family business offering 34 bungalows & 6 tree houses; run by Ferah and Ferruh (brothers) & Hatice (sister); brothers arrange tours, trekking & airport transfer, while Hatice is in kitchen, preparing meals; includes breakfast & dinner.
Restaurants
Muzo’s – on path to beach (just after ticket office); have cheese or spinach Turkish pancake (gözleme) while sitting on traditional Turkish lounges.
Sights & Sites
Beydağları Coastal National Park – Yazir Koyu Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca); 011-90-0242-345-1465 or 011-90-0242-814-1507; olymposteleferik.com/en/aktivitaeten/naturpark; national park stretches over 133 square miles; ancient settlements Idyros, Olympos & Phaselis within; beach and sea sports, picnic, camping, trekking, mountain climbing, paragliding, etc.



BOZCAADA ISLAND (in Greek, Tenedos) – 7 hours by bus & ferry from Istanbul
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368; facebook.com/pages/Deniz-Art-Cafe/181050188621734; cafe, coffee, studio.

Beaches
Cayir.

Hotels
Kemerbag 29 – 29 Kemerbasi Mevkii; 011-90-0532-609-8339; kemerbag29.com; 4 cozy, homey rooms; pool; on 10 orchard and vineyard acres.
Otel Kaikias – Cumhuriyet Mahhallesi (Kale Arkasi Mevkii); 011-90-0286-697-0250; kaikias.com; boutique hotel with simple, whitewashed rooms; beach facilities at water’s edge overlook fortress.

Restaurants
Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368; facebook.com/pages/Deniz-Art-Cafe/181050188621734; coffee.
Lodos – Cinar Carsi Caddesi; 011-90-0286-697-0545; lodosbozcaada.net; excellent mezes, like ahtapot fume (smoked octopus), cicek dolmasi (stuffed zucchini blossoms), and patlican salatasi (smoked eggplant puree).
Maya – Amerikan Çeşme Mevkii; 011-90-0532-421-7795; mayabozcaada.com; breakfast, lunch, cocktails, and dinner at 4 tables in his home garden; breakfast especially good.

Shopping
Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368; facebook.com/pages/Deniz-Art-Cafe/181050188621734; art studio & gift shop.

Sights & Sites
Amadeus Vineyard – 9 Kumkuyu Mevkii (Canakkale); amadeuswine.com; vineyard.
Corvus Vineyard – Tuzburnu Mevkii; 011-90-0212-286-5880; corvus.com.tr; 3 shops in village and can visit vineyard by appointment.



IZMIR PROVINCE
Bozburun (includes Datca)
Sights & Sites
Saturday Market – Datca; good place to stock up on groceries: cheeses, herbs, honeys, produce.

Çeşme (includes Alaçatı)
Beaches
Okan’s Place – Altınkum Mevkii; 011-90-0532-394-0131; okansplace.com; beach club that serves noshes.
Hotels
Alavya – 3005 Sokak No. 6, Yeni Mecidiye Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-6632; alavya.com.tr; 6 Greek-era houses containing 25 rooms & suites, restaurant & bar, boutique & spa; terraces & gardens around mosaic-lined pool.
Hotel Nars Ilica – Tosun Pasa Yalisi 5066 Sokak No. 12 (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-729-0001; nars.com.tr; converted, 19th Century mansion with 7 rooms.
Sudan Palas – 2012 Sokak No. 1-3, Hacimemis Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-7797; sudan.com.tr; 5-room guesthouse; chic.
Taş Otel – Kemalpaşa Caddesi No. 132, Yeni Mecidiye Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-7772; tasotel.com; 7-room, light-filled property; bougainvillea-fringed pool.
Restaurants
Alancha – 1036 Sokak No. 1, Tokoglu Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-8307; alancha.com; ultra-modern in design & menu; Anatolian.
Asma Yaprağı (Vine Leaf) – 1005 Sokak No. 50, Tokoglu Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-0178; asmayapragi.com.tr; old standby; slow-food, village-kitchen kind of place.
Services
Seabird Airlines – 54 Bebek Yokuşu İnşirah Caddesi, Suite D2 (Beşiktaş; 011-90-212-310-2330; flyseabird.com; offers transport in and out of Alaçatı from both Bodrum & Istanbul.
Shopping
Bazen – 2012 Sokak No. 1-3, Hacimemis Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0532-292-4183; facebook.com/BazenAlacati; concept store selling housewares, fashion & jewelry.
Kemeralti Bazaar – Anafartalar Caddesi, Febzipasa Bulvari Street, and surrounding streets; old marketplace; street maze filled with cafes, covered stalls, and shops; includes minimarkets dedicated to beads, jewelry, leather goods, musical instruments, songbirds, and many other treats; make sure to visit Kestane Pazari, miniature Spice Bazaar, which has decent selection coffee, spices, and tea stores, and whole slew confectioners.
Yastik – 1001 Sokak No. 2 (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-0280; yastikbyrifatozbek.com; textile boutique.

Ephesus (near Selkuk; includes Tire)
Restaurants
Kaplan Dag Restoran – Kaplan Village (Tire); 011-90-0232-512-6652; kaplandag.com; regional Turkish fare; try lor (ricotta-like cheese topped with fresh mulberry preserves).
Sights & Sights
House of Virgin Mary – Orman Yolu Park (from either Ephesus’ Upper or Lower entrances, follow signs to Meryemana); Virgin Mary’s final home; mostly dates from 6th-7th Century (foundations much older); small T-shaped stone building consists of bedroom and kitchen; spring under it believed to have healing properties; every August 15th (Feast of Mary’s Assumption), Catholic, Muslim, and Orthodox clergy conduct service together at shrine, 1 of rare occasions this happens anywhere.
St. John’s Basilica – entrance off St. Jean Sokak (just east of Isa Bey Cami Selcuk, on Ayasoluk Hill near Selcuk’s center); sacred-destinations.com/turkey/ephesus-basilica-of-st-john; constructed by Emperor Justinian in 6th Century; stands over St. John’s believed burial site; building completely destroyed in 1402 by Tamerlane’s Mongol army; restoration enables visitors to understand its size and visualize its former splendor (if fully restored, cathedral would be world’s 7th largest).
Temple of Artemis – Kusadasi; sacred-destinations.com/
turkey/ephesus-temple-of-artemis; completely rebuilt 3 times before eventual destruction in 401 by St. John Chrysostom; only foundations and sculptural fragments remain.

Urla
Restaurants
Yengec – İskele Mahallesi, 6 Sokak 2121; 011-90-0232-752-1152; yengec-restaurant.com; on harbor; 102 different mezes.



MUGLA PROVINCE
Bodrum
Hotels
Amanruya – Bulent Ecevit Caddesi (Demir Mevkii, Golturkbuku; 011-90-0252-311-1212; amanresorts.com.
Kempinski Hotel Barbaros – Kizilagac Koyu (Gerenkuyu Mevkii Yaliciftlik); 011-90-0252-311-0303; kempinski.com.
Maca Kizi Hotel – Kesireburnu Mevkii; 011-90-0252-377-6272; macakizi.com; best place to stay; pinnacle of chic; ask for rooms 862 and/or 872 or Villa 971.
Marmara Bodrum – Yokusbasi Mahallesi, Suluhasan Caddesi, 18; 011-90-0252-313-8130 or 011-90-0252-313-8135; themarmarahotels.com; perched on cliff, high above city; beautiful pool; Small Luxury Hotel member.
Shopping
Bodrum Market – next to bus station; every Tuesday.
Bodrum Sandalet – Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Hilmi Uran Meydani, 2; 011-90-0252-316-8497; handmade leather sandals.
EC Diamond – Marina Shopping Center, Bodrum Marina; 011-90-0252-316-6452; jewelry.
Gallery Mustafa – 48 Dr. Alim Ekinci Caddesi; 011-90-0252-313-1043; gallerymustafa.com; carpets; lovely kilims.
Sights & Sites
Bodrum Castle – Kale Caddesi; 011-90-0252-316-2516; bodrum-museum.com; built by Hospitallers.
Halicarnassus – Gumbet Yolu (on main road, just opposite Antique Theatre Hotel); 011-90-0252-316-8061; bodrumpages.com/English/history.html; just gated crumbling stone collection decade ago but, today, restored historic amphitheater; hilltop position overlooks Bodrum’s twin bays with concerts lighting up marble on summer’s eves; built by King Mausolus in 4th Century BCE, then enlarged in 2nd Century under Romans; rock tombs visible above theater; your leg-work will reveal inscriptions in seats (names of those who subsidized theater’s construction).
Mausoleum of Maussollos – Turgut Reis Caddesi (up hill, off Hamam Sokak); 011-90-0252-316-1219; bodrumpages.com/English/history.html; plundered Ancient World Wonder; only foundations remain; Caria King Mausolus ordered construction; finally completed in 350 BCE; tomb featured pillars supporting pyramid-shaped roof that appeared to float above structure; in 1522, earthquake caused monument to collapse; Hospitalers use stones for castle-chapel reconstruction.
Uluburun II – Kas; precise replica of world’s oldest shipwreck (2K BCE); sunk specifically for tourist divers.

Fethiye
Sights & Sites
Sovalye Island – pedestrian island surrounded by blue, clean, clear water.

Mugla
Hisaronu (includes Kumlubuk, Marmaris & Selimiye)
Hotels
D-Hotel Maris – Datca Yolu Road, km 35 (Hisaronu, Marmaris); 011-90-0252-441-2000; dhotel.com.tr; high on stunning Datca Peninsula hillside, where Aegean & Mediterranean Seas meet; overlooks small islands, natural private sand beaches, pine forests & volcanic mountain ranges; luxurious rooms & suites.
Dionysos Hotel – Alic Mevkii (Kumlubuk); 011-90-0252-476-7957 or 011-90-0252-476-7958; dionysoshotel.net; perched on canyon, terracotta-topped cottages clinging to mountainside high above Kumlubük, set amid fig, lemon, and olive trees, with views out to sea and of surrounding pine-clad peaks; restored mahogany-&-teak former lifeboat (Limon) on which up to 4 can enjoy intimate day at sea; infinity pool; owners Ahmet and Rim Senol manage this family-run estate; 22 rooms, 16 cottage suites and 4 villas, all with sea views; refurbished for 2011 in cool white and earth tones; cottage suites have outside space and each villa has private pool; book through Surrey-based Turkey specialist, Exclusive Escapes (011-44-020-8605-3500 and/or exclusiveescapes.co.uk); 3 restaurants: Dionysos Terrace, where Didem Senol (celebrated Istanbul chef) offers Mediterranean-inspired menu; Dionysos Sea Club (light bites by day, formal fish restaurant by night); and Nar (12-course Turkish tasting menu); Decléor spa offers wheatgerm facials, stone massages, and - for those with an interest in mysticism - numerology readings; yoga classes.
Restaurants
Sardunya – Selimiye; 011-90-0252-446-4003; sardunya.info; low-key restaurant (no signage), with several rooms set around fruit-tree shaded garden; right on water.

Ortakent
Sights & Sites
Mustafa Pasha Tower – built in 1602.

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

MONGOLIA

ÖMNÖGOVI
Sights & Sites
Flaming Cliffs – Bayanzag (Bain-Dzak); among greatest dinosaur fossil sites in world.



ULAAN BAATAR (includes Nalaikh)
Hotels
Terelj Hotel – Nalaikh; 011-976-9999-2233; tereljhotel.com.

Sights & Sites
Gorkhi Terelj National Park – Terelj Village (27 kms outside); mongoliatourism.org/travel-destinations/surrounding-ulaanbaatar/gorkhi-terelj-national-park.html; magnificent alpine scenery; hiking, rock climbing, swimming (in icy-cold water), rafting & horse riding.

Monday, July 21, 2014

CHAPEL HILL-DURHAM-RALEIGH

(includes Chapel Hill, Durham, Pittsboro, Raleigh & Wilson)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Counter Culture Coffee – 4911 South Alston Avenue (Durham); 919-361-5282; counterculturecoffee.com; open Friday mornings only for public “cuppings.”
Loaf – 111 West Parrish Street (Durham); 919-797-1254; loafwithus.com; baked goods & coffee; notable for cumin gruyere loves.
Parlour – 117 Market Street (Durham); 919-627-7235; theparlourdurham.com; homeade ice cream; try ice cream sandwiches, made with soft chocolate chip cookies and salted butter caramel ice cream.
Rue Cler – 401 East Chapel Hill Street (Durham); 919-682-8844; ruecler-durham.com; bakery, café, and Parisian restaurant.
Scratch Bakery – 111 Orange Street (Durham); 919-956-5200; piefantasy.com; bakery famous for pies.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Clockwork – 519 West North Street; 919-834-2211; clockworkraleigh.com; decor & patterns on wall stunning; huge gold statues & furniture are icing on cake; phenomenal cocktails with 70s theme.
Fox Liquor Bar – 237 South Wilmington Street (Raleigh); 919-322-0127; ac-restaurants.com/fox; boozy speakeasy.
Fullsteam Brewery – 726 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-682-2337; fullsteam.ag/tavern; cavernous bar; sit at picnic tables; food trucks nearby offer snacks.
Kotuku Surf Club – 703 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-294-9661; carpedurham.com/2011/12/16/surf-club; notwithstanding name, no-frills, simple bar.
Mandolin Raleigh – 2519 Fairview Road (Raleigh); 919-322-0365; mandolinraleigh.com; cocktails.
Motorco Music Hall – 723 Rigsbee Avenue (Durham); 919-901-0875; motorcomusic.com; garage bar & music venue.
Whiskey – 347 West Main Street (Durham); 919-682-6191; whiskeydurham.com; smoky speakeasy.



FOOD TRUCKS
American Meltdown – 207 Conner Drive (Chapel Hill); 516-317-8395; americanmeltdown.org/tag/food-truck; try Pigs & Figs sandwich.
Chirba Chirba Dumplings – Durham; 919-885-4328; chirbachirba.com; pork-filled buns.



HOTELS
Fearrington House – 2000 Fearrington Village Center (Pittsboro); 919-542-2121 or 800-277-0130; fearrington.com; English country hotel with French restaurant.
Durham – 315 East Chapel Hill Street; 919- or.
King’s Daughters’ Inn – 204 North Buchanan Boulevard (Durham); 919-354-7000; thekingsdaughtersinn.com; building dates to 1920s; adjacent to Duke campus; 17 room boutique.
21C Durham – 111 North Corcoran Street; 919-956-6700 or 844-301-4629; 21cmuseumhotels.com/durham.
Washington Duke Inn & Golf Club – 3001 Cameron Boulevard (Durham); 919-490-0999; washingtondukeinn.com; grandest place in town; in English countrystyle.



RESTAURANTS
Los Comales – 2103 North Roxboro Street (Durham); 919-220-1614; carpedurham.com/2008/08/02/taqueria-y-birreria-los-comales; authentic so down-at-heels; excellent agua frescas.
Counting House – 111 North Corcoran Street (at 21C Durham Hotel); 919-956-6760; 21cmuseumhotels.com/durham.
Crook’s Corner – 610 West Franklin Street (Chapel Hill); 919-929-7643; crookscorner.com; in May, hope for Honeysuckle Sorbet.
Dame’s Chicken & Waffles – 317 West Main Street (Durham); 919-682-9235; dameschickenwaffles.com; try Quilted Buttercup (fried chicken, sweet potato waffles, and maple-pecan butter schmear) & Triple Mac & Cheese.
Eno Restaurant & Market – 101 City Hall Plaza (Durham); 919-426-1622; enorestaurantandmarket.com; organic and biodynamic produce and meat from Holcomb’s farm.
Guglhupf – 2706 Durham-Chapel Hill Boulevard, #1 (Durham); 919-401-2600; guglhupf.com; Bavarian brunch.
Lantern – 423 West Franklin Street (Chapel Hill); 919-969-8846; lanternrestaurant.com; Asian-Thai; considered by locals to be Chapel Hill’s best restaurant.
Magnolia Grill – 1002 9th Street (Durham); 919-286-3609; magnoliagrill.net; #11 in Gourmet’s top American restaurants.
Mandolin Raleigh – 2519 Fairview Road (Raleigh); 919-322-0365; mandolinraleigh.com; new Southern cuisine.
Only Burger – 3710 Shannon Road (Durham); 919-937-9377; onlyburger.com; highly regarded; also operates food truck.
Parker & Otis – 112 South Duke Street (Durham); 919-683-3200; parkerandotis.com; café and upscale foodie grocery.
Parker’s Barbecue – 2514 US Highway 301 South (Wilson); 252-237-0972; among country’s best BBQ restaurants.
Poole’s Diner – 426 South McDowell Street (Raleigh); 919-832-4477; high-end, diner-reminiscent food; try chess pie.
Revolution – 107 West Main Street (Durham); 919-956-9999; revolutionrestaurant.com; squash tamales, macarpone gnocchi, and tuni with wasabi caviar.
Rose’s Meat Market & Sweet Shop – 121 North Gregson Street; 919-797-2233; rosesmeatandsweets.com; get lunch special AND dessert.
Rue Cler – 401 East Chapel Hill Street (Durham); 919-682-8844; ruecler-durham.com; bakery, café, and Parisian restaurant.
Sandwich – 431 West Franklin Street, #16 (Chapel Hill); 919-929-2114‎; sandwich.biz; try grass-fed beef meatloaf with crispy bacon and balsamic glaze.
Scratch – 111 Orange Street (Durham); 919-956-5200; piefantasy.com; sunny bakery-café; both savory and sweet pies.
Toast – 345 West Main Street (Durham); 919-683-2183; toast-fivepoints.com; Italian sandwich shop.
Zely & Ritz – 301 Glenwood Avenue (Raleigh); 919-828-0018; zelyandritz.com; slow-food.



SERVICES
Synergy Spa – 2603 Glenwood Ave, #121C (Raleigh); 919-510-5130; feelsynergy.com; day spa.



SHOPPING
Curatory – 319 West Martin Street (Raleigh); 919-917-8969; thecuratory.com; jeans.
Durham Farmers’ Market – 501 Foster Street (Durham); 919-667-3099; durhamfarmersmarket.com; takes over pavilion at recently cleaned up Durham Central Park on Saturday mornings; seek out Loaf bakery stall, or Monuts Donuts.
Horse & Buggy Press – 401-B1 Foster Street (Durham); 919-949-4847; horseandbuggypress.com; in-house graphic design products.
LabourLove Gallery – 807 East Main Street (Durham); 919-373-4451; labourlove.com; glass, stone, and wood artworks.
Liberty Arts Gallery – 923 Franklin Street (Durham); 919-682-2673; liberty-arts.org; paintings & photography.
Niche Gardens – 1111 Dawson Road (Chapel Hill); 919-967-0078; nichegardens.com; elegant nursery worth special trip.
Parker & Otis – 112 South Duke Street (Durham); 919-683-3200; parkerandotis.com; café and upscale foodie grocery.
Upfront Gallery – 401-B1 Foster Street (Durham); 919-949-4847; bullcityarts.org; local arts samplings; quirky.
Vert & Vogue – 905 West Main Street (Durham), #24b; 919-251-8537; vertandvogue.com; boutique in renovated tobacco warehouse; men’s wear.



SIGHTS & SITES
Carolina Theater – 309 West Morgan Street (Durham); 919-560-3030; carolinatheatre.org; classic, documentary, and indie movies.
Coker Arboretum – University of North Carolina, CB #3375, Totten Center (Chapel Hill); 919-962-0522; ncbg.unc.edu; shaded walkways in peaceful sanctuary on UNC campus.
Duke Chapel – 401 Chapel Drive (Durham); 919-681-9488; chapel.duke.edu; gothic and stately.
Sara B. Duke Gardens – 420 Anderson Street (Durham); 919-684-3698; hr.duke.edu/dukegardens; 55 manicured acres.
Durham Performing Arts Center – 123 Vivian Street (Durham); 919-688-3722; dpacnc.com.
Fearrington Gardens – 2000 Fearrington Village Center (Pittsboro); 919-542-2121 (for private tours); fearington.com.
Magic Wings Butterfly House – 433 Murray Avenue (Durham); 919-220-5429; ncmls.org; part of North Carolina Museum of Life and Science; 100s butterflies fluttering under cathedral-like ceilings at conservatory; 20K square feet.
Manbites Dog Theater – 703 Foster Street (Durham); 919-682-4974; manbitesdogtheater.org.
Nasher Museum of Art – 2001 Campus Drive (Durham); 919-684-5135; nasher.duke.edu; several modern, monolithic structures; focus is on contemporary art.
North Carolina Museum of Art – 2110 Blue Ridge Road (Raleigh); 919-839-6262; ncartmuseum.org.

Sunday, July 20, 2014

MARIN COUNTY

BOLINAS
Bars & Nightclubs
Smiley’s Schooner Saloon – 41 Wharf Road; 415-868-1311; smileyssaloon.com; established 1851.



CORTE MADERA
Restaurants
Il Fornaio – 223 Corte Madera Town Center; 415-927-4400; ilfornaio.com; Italian.



FAIRFAX
Shopping
Good Earth Natural Foods – 720 Center Boulevard; 415-454-0123; goodearthnaturalfoods.net; grocery store opened in 1969; stocks mostly natural or organic foods; designated area in front for chatting, drinking, eating, and sitting.



FORT BAKER
Bars & Nightclubs
Farley Bar – Cavallo Point, Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700; does not live up to promise.

Hotels
Cavallo Point – Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700 or 888-651-2003; cavallopoint.com; 68 rooms in restored officers’ quarters (older nostalgia, some with gas fireplaces); 74 rooms in new buildings; new rooms have unparalleled views; spa; restaurant, Murray Circle, and bar, Farley Bar do not live up to promise.

Restaurants
Murray Circle – Cavallo Point, Lodge at Golden Gate, 601 Murray Circle; 415-339-4700; does not live up to promise.

Sights & Sites
Fort Baker – Bunker Road (Golden Gate National Recreation Area); 415-375-8281 (cell phone tour); nps.gov; call for walking tour info.



INVERNESS
Hotels
Manka’s Inverness Lodge – 30 Callendar Way; 415-669-1034; mankas.com; wondrous collection of estates from early 1900s; main property holds 2 redwood cabins, annex, and old fishing-hunting lodge, all of which look like something out of Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale; 16' ceilings, wide plank floors, views over Tomales Bay, and spaciousness lend rooms in converted 1991 boathouse loftlike feel; cabins have double-ended tubs and private outdoor showers opening up to sky; 3- or 4-course fireside supper or private chef's meal (in their own accommodation); all ingredients farmed, fished, gathered, and/or grown within reach of lodge.
Osprey Peak Bed & Breakfast – 10 Miwak Way (Inverness); 415-669-1467; ospreypeak.com; farmhouse-like inn (ryokan); near Point Reyes.

Restaurants
Saltwater Oyster Depot – 12781 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard; 415-669-1244; saltwateroysterdepot.com; Luc Chamberland’s new cafe.



MILL VALLEY
Bars & Nightclubs
Buckeye Roadhouse – 15 Shoreline Highway; 415-331-2600; buckeyeroadhouse.com; Aspen-like lodge with fireplace.

Beaches
Muir Beach – Highway 1; 415-388-2596; parksconservancy.org; beach closed to visitors from July 7 through November.

Hotels
Acqua Hotel – 555 Redwood Highway; 415-380-0400 or 888-662-9555; marinhotels.com/acqua-hotel/home.
Mill Valley Inn – 165 Throckmorton Avenue; 415-389-6608 or 800-276-7415; marinhotels.com/mill-valley-inn/home.

Restaurants
Balboa Cafe – 38 Miller Avenue; 415-381-7321; plumpjack.com.
Buckeye Roadhouse – 15 Shoreline Highway; 415-331-2600; buckeyeroadhouse.com; Aspen-like lodge with fireplace; notable for prime rib.
El Paseo – 17 Throckmorton Avenue; 415-388-0741; elpaseomillvalley.com; open since 1947; owned by Tyler Florence and Sammy Hagar; French steakhouse.
Tamalpie Pizza – 477 Miller Avenue; 415-388-7437; tamalpiepizza.com; eat-in or take-out; hand-crafted pizzas and salads; high-end.

Sights & Sites
West Point Inn – 100 Old Railroad Grade Fire Road; 415-388-9955; westpointinn.org; 2 hour hike from Mill Valley up crooked railroad right-of-way; secluded among trees on Mt. Tamalpais upper south slope; once stopover for “Crookedest Railroad in World” passengers, up from Mill Valley; now haven for hikers; sweeping panoramic view includes East Bay, San Francisco, Marin Headlands, 1 Golden Gate Bridge tower, and out over Pacific Ocean.



NOVATO
Restaurants
Hilltop 1892 – 850 Lamont Avenue; 415-893-1892; hilltop1892.com; Michelin-recommended.



POINT REYES (includes Bolinas, Marshall, Olema, Point Reyes, Point Reyes Station & Stinson Beach)

Hotels
Nick’s Cove & Cottages – 23240 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-1033; nickscove.com; on skinny, Point Reyes peninsula; 5 waterfront cottages on pristine Tomales Bay; try to get “Big Rock” cabin; some room service.
Olema Inn & Restaurant – 10,000 Sir Frances Drake Boulevard (Olema); 415-663-9559; theolemainn.com; near Point Reyes; opened on July 4, 1876, lost as gambling debt, and survived 1906 earthquake (Olema was epicenter); today combines modern luxuries with antique furniture and light fixtures; views are of beautiful back garden – wedding site – and Olema Valley; stroll on stone pathways behind inn to orchard and flower gardens; try to reserve #3 – quietest room, overlooking garden.
Restaurants
Breakers Café – 3465 Highway 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-2002; stinsonbeachcafe.com; great breakfast, brunch and lunch spot; huge bloody marys with extravagant garnishes, fresh local produce, and wood-burning stove.
Hog Island Oyster Co. – 20215 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-9218; hogislandoysters.com; sit outside at picnic tables with estuary views; oysters only (barbecued or raw), with crackers or bread; beer and wine.
Nick’s Cove – 23240 Highway 1 (Marshall); 415-663-1033; nickscove.com; on bay; chowder house.
Olema Inn & Restaurant – 10000 Sir Frances Drake Boulevard (Olema); 415-663-9559; theolemainn.com; romantic candle-lit restaurant; features local produce and meats; try Bellwether Farms ricotta gnocchi with pine nuts and sage brown butter, duck confit and apple ravioli in sherry reduction, and/or grilled, center-cut Niman Ranch pork chop with cider glaze; much produce grown at inn’s organic garden and orchard.
Osteria Stellina – 11285 Highway 1 North (Point Reyes); 415-663-9988; osteriastellina.com; elegantly yet simply furnished; attentive service; comfort and modern American cuisine.
Sand Dollar Restaurant – 3458 California 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-0434; stinsonbeachrestaurant.com; expansive deck; sometimes has live music.

Shopping
Epicenter – 9960 California 1 North (Olema); 415-663-1239; hippie women’s wear.
Gallery Route One – 11101 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1347; galleryrouteone.org; alternative art gallery.
Point Reyes Books – 11315 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1542; ptreyesbooks.com.
Spirit Matters – 12307 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-8699; facebook.com/spiritmatters; eclectic boutique selling “oddities and deities”; found materials used in garden and store; books, incense, etc.
Toby’s Feed Barn – 11250 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1223; tobysfeedbarn.com; general store.
Vita Collage – 11101 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1160; vitacollage.com; home accessories boutique.
Zuma – 11265 California 1 (Point Reyes Station); 415-663-1748; ethnic handicrafts and jewelry.

Sights & Sites
Bolinas Art Museum – 48 Wharf Road (Bolinas); 415-868-0330; bolinasmuseum.org.
Cypress Grove Research Center – 20545 State Route 1 North (Marshall); 415-663-8203; egret.org; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.
Martin Griffin Preserve (formerly Bolinas Lagoon Preserve) – 4900 Shoreline Highway 1 (Stinson Beach); 415-868-9244; egret.org; part of Audubon Canyon Ranch; bird preserve.
Point Reyes National Seashore – 1 Bear Valley Road (Point Reyes Station); 415-464-5100; nps.gov/pore; 71K-acre park preserve located on Point Reyes Peninsula; nationally important nature preserve within which existing agricultural uses allowed to continue (historic ranching and oyster farming); beaches listed as cleanest in state in 2010; worth special trip for walk to lighthouse.


SAN RAFAEL
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Arizmendi Bakery – 1002 4th Street; 415-456-4093; arizmendibakery.org; worker-managed, cooperative bakery specializing in breads and morning pastries; closed Mondays.
Double Rainbow – 860 4th Street; 415-457-0803; doublerainbow.com; old-fashioned location (on Main-ish Street) and old-fashioned touches (stools at soda fountain), but funky modern vibe; generous portions of ice cream in large variety flavors.

Restaurants
Arizmendi Bakery – 1002 4th Street; 415-456-4093; arizmendibakery.org; worker-managed, cooperative bakery; pizza; closed Mondays.
Double Rainbow – 860 4th Street; 415-457-0803; doublerainbow.com; old-fashioned location (on Main-ish Street) and old-fashioned touches (stools at soda fountain), but funky modern breakfast and lunch.
Sol Food La Bodega – 903 Lincoln Avenue; 415-451-4765; solfoodrestaurant.com; Puerto Rican.

Shopping
Masterweavers – 901 4th Street; 415-455-9653; handwoven and machine-woven area rugs.
San Rafael Luggage Center – 871 4th Street; 415- 459-0181; durableluggage.com; business cases, fine luggage, and travel accessories for serious travelers.

Sights & Sites
Tennessee Valley Trail – Tennessee Valley Road (in Golden Gate National Recreation Area); 415-331-1540 (Marin Headlands Visitor Center); nps.gov/goga/planyourvisit/tennessee_valley.htm; from Highway 101, take Mill Valley-Stinson Beach-Highway 1 exit and turn left onto Tennessee Valley Road from Shoreline Highway; follow to parking lot and trailhead; offers beautiful rugged coastline views along Marin Headlands; easy, level access to beach and ocean; 3.8 miles; can get windy.



SAUSALITO
Bars & Nightclubs
Bocce Bar – 1250 Bridgeway; 415-331-0555; barbocce.com; sit outside, weather permitting; primarily for wine.

Hotels
Casa Madrona – 801 Bridgeway; 415-332-0502 or 800-288-0502; casamadrona.com.

Restaurants
Bocce Bar – 1250 Bridgeway; 415-331-0555; barbocce.com; sit outside, weather permitting; pizza and desserts.
Feng Nian – 2650 Bridgeway; 415-331-5300; fengnian.com; Chinese.
Fish Restaurant – 350 Harbor Drive; 415-331-3474; 331fish.com; dedicated to sustainable seafood; tiny shack on water where you eat at picnic tables; Zagat rates it 24/30.
Le Garage Bistro – 85 Liberty Ship Way; 415-332-5625; legaragesausalito.com; do not be thrown by name; French food on docks.
Poggio – 777 Bridgeway (at Casa Madrona); 415-332-7771; poggiotrattoria.com; classic Italian trattoria food with indoor and outdoor seating; service is often hostile and sometimes nonexistent; food is worth the hassle.
Spinnaker – 100 Spinnaker Drive; 415-332-1500; thespinnaker.com; dramatic location, jutting out over water, with every table having splendid view; interior is 1970s drab; food is surprisingly good, but simple, time-honored, American dishes; seafood emphasis.

Services
Lili’s Salon – 219 Caledonia Street; 415-332-8700; lilissalon.com; hair, make-up, and nails.

Shopping
Heath Ceramics – 400 Gate Five Road; 415-332-3732; heathceramics.com; factory headquarters and outlet.



TIBURON (includes Belvedere Tiburon)
Hotels
Lodge at Tiburon – 1651 Tiburon Boulevard; 415-435-5996; lodgeattiburon.com.
Lodge at Tiburon – 1651 Tiburon Boulevard; 415-435-3133 or 800-762-7770; lodgeattiburon.com.
Water’s Edge Hotel – 25 Main Street; 415-789-5999 or 888-662-9555; watersedgehotel.com.

Restaurants
Caprice – 2000 Paradise Drive; 415-435-3400; thecaprice.com; beautiful waterfront restaurant; French.
Sam’s Anchor Cafe – 27 Main Street; 415-435-4527; samscafe.com; favorite waterfront restaurant.

Shopping
Strawberry Village – Redwood Highway Frontage Road (US Highway 101, Tiburon Boulevard Exit; 415-388-4460, ext. 487; strawberryvillage.com; high-end-ish outdoor shopping.

Sights & Sites
Angel Island State Park – San Francisco Bay (off Tiburon, from where take ferry); 415-435-5390; parks.ca.gov/?page_id=468.
Paradise Beach Park – 3450 Paradise Drive; 415-435-9212; marincountyparks.org; pier, Redwoods, sandy beach, grassy expanses; perfect for picnics.

BIG SUR-MONTEREY COAST

(includes Carmel, Carmel Valley, Carmel-by-Sea, Davenport, Half Moon Bay, Jenner, Marina, Monterey, Pescadero & Princeton-by-Bay)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Big Sur Bakery & Restaurant – 47540 Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-0520; bigsurbakery.com; spectacular views.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Hog’s Breath Inn – San Carlos Street (Carmel, at 5th Street); 831-625-1044; hogsbreathinn.net; Clint Eastwood’s restaurant & property; Old West atmosphere.
Inn at Spanish Bay – 2700 17 Mile Drive (Pebble Beach); 831-647-7500 or 800-654-9300; pebblebeach.com; grab table on patio before sundown, after driving in on 17-Mile Drive.
Mission Ranch – 26270 Dolores Street (Carmel); 831-624-6436; missionranchcarmel.com; Clint Eastwood’s restaurant & property; on 22-acres; striking view.



BEACHES
San Carlos Beach (also called Breakwater or Breakwater Cove) – Cannery Row (Monterey); 831-646-3860 (Monterey Parks Department); mtycounty.com/pgs-parks/parks-reg/sancarlos.html.



DIVES
Aumentos Reef – approximately 1/2 mile offshore (in Monterey Bay, offshore of Esplanade Street); divespots.com/scuba-diving-spots/california/san-diego/spots/aumentos-reef; massive underwater mountain; Aumentos is Spanish for “enlargement”; reef gently slopes from about 60-120' down.
Metridium Fields – 200 yards offshore from Monterey Beach (at intersection of Cannery Row & Reeside Avenue); scubamonterey.com/infometridiumfield.html; named for Metridium giganteum (“Giant White Plumed Anemone”), found in abundance here; bat rays, juvenile wolf eels, ocean sunfish & bull seal lions can be seen at this location.
Outer Pinnacles – Pebble Beach (Carmel); diveadvisor.com/united-states/outer-pinnacles-2; reefs caked with corral, marine mammals, octopus, wolf eels, etc.
Soquel Canyon State Marine Conservation Area – Monterey Submarine Canyon; californiampas.org; Monterey Submarine Canyon begins at Moss Landing (Monterey Bay middle) & extends 95 miles into Pacific Ocean where terminates at Monterey Canyon submarine fan, reaching depths of up to 12K'; though bottom is about 2 miles below surface, actual canyon itself about 1 mile deep, making it comparable in depth to Grand Canyon; depth & nutrient availability (due to regular nutrient-rich sediment influx) provide habitat suitable for many marine life forms; Soquel Canyon State Marine Conservation Area protects side-branch of Monterey Submarine Canyon; like underwater park, this marine protected area helps conserve ocean wildlife and marine ecosystems.
Point Lobos State Marine Reserve – 62 Route 1 (3-5 miles south of Carmel); 831-624-4909; pointlobos.org; 10K underwater acres; California’s premier diving location; make sure to see cast of underwater reserve at Whalers’ Cove.




HOTELS
L’Auberge Carmel – Monte Verde Street at 7th Street (Carmel); 831-624-8578 or 800-905-5745; laubergecarmel.com; stucco and wood lodge 4 blocks off Carmel Beach.
Beach House Hotel – 4100 Cabrillo Highway North (Half Moon Bay); 650-712-0220 or 800-315-9366; beach-house.com/half-moon-bay-hotels.html; nice; breakfast included.
Bernardus Lodge & Winery – 415 Carmel Valley Road (Carmel Valley); 831-659-3131 or 888-648-9463; bernardus.com; adobe guesthouses with fireplaces and featherbeds; private balconies with views of Saint Lucia Mountains.
Big Sur Lodge – 47225 California Highway 1; 831-667-3100; bigsurlodge.com.
Carmel Valley Ranch – 1 Old Ranch Road (Carmel); 831-625-9500 or 877-583-0052; carmelvalleyranch.com.
Cypress Inn – 7th Avenue and Lincoln Street (Carmel); 831-624-3871 or 800-944-7443; cypress-inn.com; co-owned by Doris Day.
Davenport Roadhouse – 1 Davenport Avenue (Davenport); 831-426-8801; davenportroadhouse.com; 8 comfortable rooms ranging from $70-210, depending on season and size.
Highlands Inn – 120 Highlands Drive (Carmel); 831-620-1234 or 888-591-1234; highlandsinn.hyatt.com; owned by Hyatt; Monterrey pine, cypress, and redwood forest setting for stone lodge on 10 acres of hillside.
Inn at Spanish Bay – 2700 17 Mile Drive (Pebble Beach); 831-647-7500 or 800-654-9300; pebblebeach.com; 269-room inn located amid Monterey pines, next to golf course; ask for room that overlooks fire-pits so can see bagpiper who plays daily at sunset; concierge will create personalized maps for local hiking, jogging, & wine tasting.
Post Ranch Inn – Highway 1 (Big Sur, across from Ventana Inn); 831-667-2200 or 888-524-4787; postranchinn.com; luxury resort on Pacific side of highway; views, modern architecture, spa, dining.
Ventana Inn & Spa – 48123 Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-2331 or 800-628-6500; ventanainn.com; on hillside overlooking Pacific coastline; spacious suites and guest-rooms; rustic with thoughtful appointments; on 243 acres; pool; Japanese hot baths; dining; Allegria Spa; afternoon wine and cheese reception; daily yoga classes; Guided Discovery Walk.



RESTAURANTS
L’Auberge Carmel – Monte Verde Street at 7th Street (Carmel); 831-624-8578; laubergecarmel.com; stucco and wood lodge 4 blocks off Carmel Beach; tasting menu.
Barbara’s Fish Trap – 281 Capistrano Road (Princeton-by-Bay); 650-728-7049; on harbor; clam chowder in sour dough bowls and red snapper taco salad.
La Bicyclette – Dolores Street (Carmel, at 7th Avenue); 831-622-9899; labicycletterestaurant.com; rustic village bistro.
Big Sur Bakery & Restaurant – 47540 Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-0520; bigsurbakery.com; spectacular views; wood-burning oven pizzas; butter-braised halibut.
Cantinetta Luca – Dolores Street (Carmel, between Ocean and 7th Avenues); 831-625-6500; cantinettaluca.com; wood-fired pizza, homemade pastas, and Italian wines.
Carmel Belle – Doud Craft Studios, San Carlos Street (Carmel-by-Sea, between Ocean Avenue & San Carlos Street); 831-624-1600; carmelbelle.com; especially for breakfast.
Citronelle – 1 Old Ranch Road (Carmel, at Carmel Valley Ranch); 831-625-9500; carmelvalleyranch.com; California-French cuisine.
Duarte’s Tavern – 202 Stage Road (Pescadero); 650-879-0464; crab cioppino; good soups.
Garden Deli & Café – 356 Main Street (Half Moon Bay); 650-726-3425; custom-built, excellent sandwiches good for hiking.
Phil’s Fish Market – 7600 Sandholdt Road (Moss Landing); 831-633-2152; philsfishmarket.com; famous for cioppino.



SERVICES
Adventures by Sea – 299 Cannery Row (Monterrey); 831-372-1807; rent bicycle and ride along 17-Mile Drive.
Aquarius Dive Shop – 2040 Del Monte Avenue (Monterey); 831-375-1933; aquariusdivers.com; will arrange local diving.
Bernardus Lodge – 415 Carmel Valley Road (Carmel); 831-658-3500; bernardus.com; spa.
Elkhorn Slough Safari Nature Tours – 8022 Moss Landing Road (Moss Landing); 831-633-5555; elkhornslough.com; guided tours.



SHOPPING
Bountiful Basket – San Carlos Street (Carmel, off Ocean Avenue); 831-625-4457; bountifulbasketcarmel.com; imported food.
Bruno’s Market & Deli – 6th Street (Carmel, at Junipero Avenue); 831-624-3821; brunosmarket.com; gourmet sandwiches.
Carmel Drug Store – Ocean Avenue (Carmel, at San Carlos Street); 831-624-3819; carmeldrugstore.com; handmade Swiss combs and grandma colognes; open since 1919.
Cheese Shop – Carmel Plaza, Ocean Avenue (Carmel, at Junipero Avenue); 831-625-2272 or 800-828-9463; thecheeseshopinc.com; picnic fixings.
Piccolo – Dolores Street (Carmel, between Ocean and 7th Avenues); 831-624-4411; piccolocarmel.com; handmade glassware, pottery, stationary and jewelry.
Trouve – San Carlos Street (Carmel, at 6th Avenue); 831-625-9777; trouvehome.com; modern house wares and global antiques.
Steven Whyte Studio – Dolores Street (Carmel, between 5th and 6th Avenues); 831-620-1917; stevenwhytesculptor.com; local sculptor’s working studios.



SIGHTS & SITES
Año Nuevo State Park – New Years Creek Road (Pescadero); 650-879-0227 or 800-444-4445; parks.ca.gov; elephant seal breeding grounds (mid-December-March); park interprets and protects pinniped rookeries and significant wildlife habitats on Año Nuevo Island and mainland; also sensitive native dunes and coastal terrace prairie habitats; diverse inland plant communities, including old growth forest, freshwater marsh, red alder riparian forest and knobcone pine forest; 4 perennial streams support steelhead trout and coho salmon; wetlands are habitat to San Francisco garter snake and red-legged frog; cultural resources include native California Indian Ohlone occupation remnants and 19th Century Cascade Ranch and historic Steele Ranch structures.
Devil’s Slide – stretch of Highway 1 (actually, north of Big Sur, soon to close); take Great Highway south alongside Ocean Beach, following signs for 35-Skyline Boulevard/Highway 1/Cabrillo Highway South, toward Pacifica).
Elkhorn Slough – 1700 Elkhorn Road (Watsonville); 831-728-2822; elkhornslough.org; for birdwatching & kayaking.
Fort Ord Dunes State Park – Beach Range Road (Marina); 831-649-2836; parks.ca.gov; call 831-998-9458, #204 for wildlife migration (e.g., whales) information; has 1K acres, gorgeous Monterey Bay panoramas, boardwalk and viewing platform, and 1.5 foot trail that leads down to 4-mile beach stretch.
Garrapata State Park – Highway 1 (Carmel, 6.7 miles south of Rio Road in Carmel & 18 miles north of Big Sur); 831-624-4909; parks.ca.gov/?page_id=579; 2 miles beach front, with coastal hiking & 50' climb to Pacific Ocean view; diverse coastal vegetation with trails running from ocean beaches into dense redwood groves; outstanding coastal headlands at Soberanes Point; sea lions, harbor seals & sea otters; California gray whales pass close by during yearly migration.
Mid-Peninsula Regional Open Space District – Half Moon Bay; openspace.org; Purisima Creek Redwoods is among most popular trails; also try Lobitos Ridge.
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park – Highway 1 (Big Sur); 831-667-2315; parks.ca.gov/?page_id=578; main feature is McWay Falls, which drops over 80' cliff into Pacific Ocean; home to 300' redwoods over 2.5K years old.
Monterey Bay Aquarium – 886 Cannery Row (Monterey); 831-648-4800; montereybayaquarium.org.
Pesadero Drive – take Stage Road from Pescadero’s main street to San Gregorio’s crossroads; beautiful, hilly country to coast.
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park – 47225 California Highway 1; 831-667-2315; parks.ca.gov/?page_id=570; approximately 1,006 acres centered on Big Sur River; nicknamed “mini Yosemite”; has both hotel (Big Sur Lodge) & campground within its boundaries; known for redwood groves & trail to Pfeiffer Falls.
Point Lobos State Reserve – Highway 1 (3-5 miles south of Carmel); 831-624-4909; pt-lobos.parks.state.ca.us; majestic landscape with 14 meandering trails; sea otters and lions, and seals; migrating whales December through May; make sure to visit Allan Memorial Grove and Whaling Station Museum.
San Carlos Borromeo del Rio Carmelo Mission – 3080 Rio Road (Carmel); 831-624-1271; carmelmission.org; founded at present site in 1771 by Father Junipero Serra; beautiful.
17-Mile Drive – Highway 1 Gate to Carmel Gate; pebblebeach.com/activities/explore-the-monterey-peninsula/17-mile-drive; scenic loop-road through Pebble Beach & Pacific Grove, hugging Pacific coastline; 4 primary entrances, main highway entrance at California State Route 1, and entrances in Carmel & Pacific Grove.
Stevenson House – 530 Houston Street (Monterey); 831-649-7118; parks.ca.gov/?page_id=963; 2-story adobe has sheltered families, government officials, artists, writers & fishermen since Mexican era; in 1879, during time as rooming house (known as “French Hotel”), Robert Louis Stevenson, stayed few months; in frail health, poor & unknown, cared for by friends while he courted his future wife, Fanny Osbourne; while in Monterey, Stevenson penned Old Pacific Capital; several rooms devoted to “Stevensonia.”
Stillwater Cove – 22455 California Highway 1 (Jenner, all parking at Stillwater Cove Regional Park); 707-847-3245 or 831-625-8507 (for diving permission); Chinese fishing village site in 1868; now premier, year-round shore-diving locale for area; otters, seals & other marine life; only 10 divers per day allowed; about 2 weeks in advance to make reservation.