Sunday, November 2, 2014


Academic Arrangements Abroad – 1040 Avenue of Americas (between 39th & 40th Streets); 212-302-3104;; discover coastal Turkey, narrated by academics.

Sights & Sites
Antalya Museum – Konyaalti Caddesi; 011-90-0242-241-4528;

Altintas – Elmali-Finike Road (follow Elmali signs); riverside restaurant notable for setting and pleasant meals.
Sights & Sites
Arycanda – Elmali-Finike Road (5 miles east of Kale);; ancient Lycian city, built upon 5 large terraces ascending mountain slope; sights include largest Lycian bath complex (lowest terrace), still virtually intact; in agora, some shops (eastern part) can still be seen; amphitheater, in excellent condition, built during 2nd Century; odeon including Emperor Hadrian portrait; stadium, from Hellenistic period, smaller than usual stadium; 2 necropolises, 1 with richly decorated funerary monuments; and bouleuterion, where council met.

Olympos – considered among top in Turkey.
Bayrams Tree Houses – Yazir Koyu Olympos Mevki Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca); 011-90-0242-892-1399;; tree houses; casual and for young crowd.
Zeus Pension – Yazir Koyu Olympos Mevki Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca);; family business offering 34 bungalows & 6 tree houses; run by Ferah and Ferruh (brothers) & Hatice (sister); brothers arrange tours, trekking & airport transfer, while Hatice is in kitchen, preparing meals; includes breakfast & dinner.
Muzo’s – on path to beach (just after ticket office); have cheese or spinach Turkish pancake (gözleme) while sitting on traditional Turkish lounges.
Sights & Sites
Beydağları Coastal National Park – Yazir Koyu Kumluca Merkez (Kumluca); 011-90-0242-345-1465 or 011-90-0242-814-1507;; national park stretches over 133 square miles; ancient settlements Idyros, Olympos & Phaselis within; beach and sea sports, picnic, camping, trekking, mountain climbing, paragliding, etc.

BOZCAADA ISLAND (in Greek, Tenedos) – 7 hours by bus & ferry from Istanbul
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368;; cafe, coffee, studio.


Kemerbag 29 – 29 Kemerbasi Mevkii; 011-90-0532-609-8339;; 4 cozy, homey rooms; pool; on 10 orchard and vineyard acres.
Otel Kaikias – Cumhuriyet Mahhallesi (Kale Arkasi Mevkii); 011-90-0286-697-0250;; boutique hotel with simple, whitewashed rooms; beach facilities at water’s edge overlook fortress.

Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368;; coffee.
Lodos – Cinar Carsi Caddesi; 011-90-0286-697-0545;; excellent mezes, like ahtapot fume (smoked octopus), cicek dolmasi (stuffed zucchini blossoms), and patlican salatasi (smoked eggplant puree).
Maya – Amerikan Çeşme Mevkii; 011-90-0532-421-7795;; breakfast, lunch, cocktails, and dinner at 4 tables in his home garden; breakfast especially good.

Deniz – 27 Alaybey Mahhallesi Namazgah Caddesi; 011-90-0533-568-6368;; art studio & gift shop.

Sights & Sites
Amadeus Vineyard – 9 Kumkuyu Mevkii (Canakkale);; vineyard.
Corvus Vineyard – Tuzburnu Mevkii; 011-90-0212-286-5880;; 3 shops in village and can visit vineyard by appointment.

Bozburun (includes Datca)
Sights & Sites
Saturday Market – Datca; good place to stock up on groceries: cheeses, herbs, honeys, produce.

Çeşme (includes Alaçatı)
Okan’s Place – Altınkum Mevkii; 011-90-0532-394-0131;; beach club that serves noshes.
Alavya – 3005 Sokak No. 6, Yeni Mecidiye Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-6632;; 6 Greek-era houses containing 25 rooms & suites, restaurant & bar, boutique & spa; terraces & gardens around mosaic-lined pool.
Hotel Nars Ilica – Tosun Pasa Yalisi 5066 Sokak No. 12 (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-729-0001;; converted, 19th Century mansion with 7 rooms.
Sudan Palas – 2012 Sokak No. 1-3, Hacimemis Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-7797;; 5-room guesthouse; chic.
Taş Otel – Kemalpaşa Caddesi No. 132, Yeni Mecidiye Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-7772;; 7-room, light-filled property; bougainvillea-fringed pool.
Alancha – 1036 Sokak No. 1, Tokoglu Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-8307;; ultra-modern in design & menu; Anatolian.
Asma Yaprağı (Vine Leaf) – 1005 Sokak No. 50, Tokoglu Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-0178;; old standby; slow-food, village-kitchen kind of place.
Seabird Airlines – 54 Bebek Yokuşu İnşirah Caddesi, Suite D2 (Beşiktaş; 011-90-212-310-2330;; offers transport in and out of Alaçatı from both Bodrum & Istanbul.
Bazen – 2012 Sokak No. 1-3, Hacimemis Mahhallesi (Alaçatı); 011-90-0532-292-4183;; concept store selling housewares, fashion & jewelry.
Kemeralti Bazaar – Anafartalar Caddesi, Febzipasa Bulvari Street, and surrounding streets; old marketplace; street maze filled with cafes, covered stalls, and shops; includes minimarkets dedicated to beads, jewelry, leather goods, musical instruments, songbirds, and many other treats; make sure to visit Kestane Pazari, miniature Spice Bazaar, which has decent selection coffee, spices, and tea stores, and whole slew confectioners.
Yastik – 1001 Sokak No. 2 (Alaçatı); 011-90-0232-716-0280;; textile boutique.

Ephesus (near Selkuk; includes Tire)
Kaplan Dag Restoran – Kaplan Village (Tire); 011-90-0232-512-6652;; regional Turkish fare; try lor (ricotta-like cheese topped with fresh mulberry preserves).
Sights & Sights
House of Virgin Mary – Orman Yolu Park (from either Ephesus’ Upper or Lower entrances, follow signs to Meryemana); Virgin Mary’s final home; mostly dates from 6th-7th Century (foundations much older); small T-shaped stone building consists of bedroom and kitchen; spring under it believed to have healing properties; every August 15th (Feast of Mary’s Assumption), Catholic, Muslim, and Orthodox clergy conduct service together at shrine, 1 of rare occasions this happens anywhere.
St. John’s Basilica – entrance off St. Jean Sokak (just east of Isa Bey Cami Selcuk, on Ayasoluk Hill near Selcuk’s center);; constructed by Emperor Justinian in 6th Century; stands over St. John’s believed burial site; building completely destroyed in 1402 by Tamerlane’s Mongol army; restoration enables visitors to understand its size and visualize its former splendor (if fully restored, cathedral would be world’s 7th largest).
Temple of Artemis – Kusadasi;
turkey/ephesus-temple-of-artemis; completely rebuilt 3 times before eventual destruction in 401 by St. John Chrysostom; only foundations and sculptural fragments remain.

Yengec – İskele Mahallesi, 6 Sokak 2121; 011-90-0232-752-1152;; on harbor; 102 different mezes.

Amanruya – Bulent Ecevit Caddesi (Demir Mevkii, Golturkbuku; 011-90-0252-311-1212;
Kempinski Hotel Barbaros – Kizilagac Koyu (Gerenkuyu Mevkii Yaliciftlik); 011-90-0252-311-0303;
Maca Kizi Hotel – Kesireburnu Mevkii; 011-90-0252-377-6272;; best place to stay; pinnacle of chic; ask for rooms 862 and/or 872 or Villa 971.
Marmara Bodrum – Yokusbasi Mahallesi, Suluhasan Caddesi, 18; 011-90-0252-313-8130 or 011-90-0252-313-8135;; perched on cliff, high above city; beautiful pool; Small Luxury Hotel member.
Bodrum Market – next to bus station; every Tuesday.
Bodrum Sandalet – Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Hilmi Uran Meydani, 2; 011-90-0252-316-8497; handmade leather sandals.
EC Diamond – Marina Shopping Center, Bodrum Marina; 011-90-0252-316-6452; jewelry.
Gallery Mustafa – 48 Dr. Alim Ekinci Caddesi; 011-90-0252-313-1043;; carpets; lovely kilims.
Sights & Sites
Bodrum Castle – Kale Caddesi; 011-90-0252-316-2516;; built by Hospitallers.
Halicarnassus – Gumbet Yolu (on main road, just opposite Antique Theatre Hotel); 011-90-0252-316-8061;; just gated crumbling stone collection decade ago but, today, restored historic amphitheater; hilltop position overlooks Bodrum’s twin bays with concerts lighting up marble on summer’s eves; built by King Mausolus in 4th Century BCE, then enlarged in 2nd Century under Romans; rock tombs visible above theater; your leg-work will reveal inscriptions in seats (names of those who subsidized theater’s construction).
Mausoleum of Maussollos – Turgut Reis Caddesi (up hill, off Hamam Sokak); 011-90-0252-316-1219;; plundered Ancient World Wonder; only foundations remain; Caria King Mausolus ordered construction; finally completed in 350 BCE; tomb featured pillars supporting pyramid-shaped roof that appeared to float above structure; in 1522, earthquake caused monument to collapse; Hospitalers use stones for castle-chapel reconstruction.
Uluburun II – Kas; precise replica of world’s oldest shipwreck (2K BCE); sunk specifically for tourist divers.

Sights & Sites
Sovalye Island – pedestrian island surrounded by blue, clean, clear water.

Hisaronu (includes Kumlubuk, Marmaris & Selimiye)
D-Hotel Maris – Datca Yolu Road, km 35 (Hisaronu, Marmaris); 011-90-0252-441-2000;; high on stunning Datca Peninsula hillside, where Aegean & Mediterranean Seas meet; overlooks small islands, natural private sand beaches, pine forests & volcanic mountain ranges; luxurious rooms & suites.
Dionysos Hotel – Alic Mevkii (Kumlubuk); 011-90-0252-476-7957 or 011-90-0252-476-7958;; perched on canyon, terracotta-topped cottages clinging to mountainside high above Kumlubük, set amid fig, lemon, and olive trees, with views out to sea and of surrounding pine-clad peaks; restored mahogany-&-teak former lifeboat (Limon) on which up to 4 can enjoy intimate day at sea; infinity pool; owners Ahmet and Rim Senol manage this family-run estate; 22 rooms, 16 cottage suites and 4 villas, all with sea views; refurbished for 2011 in cool white and earth tones; cottage suites have outside space and each villa has private pool; book through Surrey-based Turkey specialist, Exclusive Escapes (011-44-020-8605-3500 and/or; 3 restaurants: Dionysos Terrace, where Didem Senol (celebrated Istanbul chef) offers Mediterranean-inspired menu; Dionysos Sea Club (light bites by day, formal fish restaurant by night); and Nar (12-course Turkish tasting menu); Decléor spa offers wheatgerm facials, stone massages, and - for those with an interest in mysticism - numerology readings; yoga classes.
Sardunya – Selimiye; 011-90-0252-446-4003;; low-key restaurant (no signage), with several rooms set around fruit-tree shaded garden; right on water.

Sights & Sites
Mustafa Pasha Tower – built in 1602.

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