Thursday, December 13, 2012


(includes Hamden and North & West Haven)

Fuel – 516 Chapel Street; 203-773-5005;; for espresso.
Lucibellos Italian Pastry Shop – 935 Grand Avenue; 203-562-4083;; marzipan-flavored, pine nut-topped pignoli, clam-shaped sfogliatelle, and crispy cannoli.

Anchor Restaurant – 272 College Street; 203-865-1512;; lighthouse-shaped lamps, blue vinyl booths, neon-lit Rock-Ola jukebox.
Café Nine – 250 State Street; 203-789-8281;; dubbed “musicians’ livingroom,” for its intimate scale.
Cask Republic – 179 Crown Street; 475-238-8335;; ales, lagers, porters, and stouts.
Dive Bar & Restaurant – 24 Ocean Avenue (West Haven); 203-933-3483;
116 Crown – 116 Crown Street; 203-777-3116;; how-to cocktail classes.
Owl Shop – 268 College Street; 203-624-3250;; if only for atmosphere; cigar shop that serves drinks (bourbon).
Rudy’s – 1227 Chapel Street; 203-865-1242;; make sure to get hand-cut fries.

Bradley Point Beach – Captain Thomas Boulevard (West Haven);; near July 5, 1779 British invasion site; sandy, small beach and developed walkway parallel to Long Island Sound; park benches onsite provide vantage points for visitors to enjoy extensive Long Island Sound views.

Omni New Haven Hotel at Yale – 155 Temple Street; 203-772-6664;; Long Island Sound and/or Yale campus views.
Study at Yale – 1157 Chapel Street; 203-503-3900;; lobby filled with bookshelves, leather chairs, and modern art.

Anchor Restaurant – 272 College Street; 203-865-1512;
Bella’s Cafe – 896 Whalley Avenue (Westville); 203-387-7107;; perfect for Saturday-Sunday brunch, in particular.
Caseus Fromagerie Bistro – 93 Whitney Avenue; 203-624-3373;; try arctic char with cucumber-feta relish; try PFT Sandwich (prosciutto, fig jam, and Taleggio cheese).
Dive Bar & Restaurant – 24 Ocean Avenue (West Haven); 203-933-3483;
Liuzzi Gourmet Market – 322 State Street (North Haven); 203-248-4356;; lunch; excellent sandwiches.
Louis’ Lunch – 261-263 Crown Street; 203-562-5507; hamburgers.
116 Crown – 116 Crown Street; 203-777-3116;; how-to cocktail classes.
Miya’s Sushi – 68 Howe Street; 203-777-9760;; sustainable sushi; try Charlie Chan’s Ching Chong Roll (whole wheat tempura broccoli, garlic, and black beans) and/or Japafrican Queen (eggplant, goat cheese, apricots, avocado, pickled radish, chives, and berbere spice mix, rolled in Ethiopian injera bread).
Union League Café – 1032 Chapel Street; 203-562-4299;; inscription above fireplace marks 1789 George Washington visit; Beaux-Art grandeur; rich food.
Zuppardi’s Apizza – 179 Union Avenue (West Haven); 203-934-1949;; nearly 80 years-old; on residential street, behind green & white awning; order Fresh Clam Apizza.

116 Crown – 116 Crown Street; 203-777-3116;; how-to cocktail classes; reserve 2 weeks in advance.
Yale University Visitor Center – 149 Elm Street; 203-432-2300;; guided tours.

Fashionista Vintage & Variety – 93 Whitney Avenue; 203-777-4434;; both men’s and women’s wear.
Liuzzi Gourmet Market – 322 State Street (North Haven); 203-248-4356;; imported foods.

East Rock Park – Cold Spring & Orange Streets (Hamden); 203-946-6086;; 426 acres; 350' basalt cliff offers tremendous views, especially at sunset, over Elm City and Long Island Sound.
Edgewood Park – Edgewood Avenue; 203-787-1055;; Frederick Law Olmstead, Jr. designed; bird-watching, cross-country, jogging, relaxing by pond, skateboarding, and/or walking.
Long Wharf Theater – 222 Sargent Drive; 203-787-4282;; founded in 1965; has drawn Hollywood powerhouses like Al Pacino and Kevin Spacey.
Sandy Point Bird Sanctuary – Beach Street (West Haven);; great place for bird watching; 3.5 miles public beach or waterfront park; 1.7 mile walkway providing continuous waterfront urban “greenway”; Long Island Sound views throughout most of walkway (open 24 hours); red-billed oystercatchers and green-winged monk parakeets.
Peabody Museum of Natural History – 170 Whitney Avenue; 203-432-5050;; taxidermy; among world’s largest, largest, most prolific, and oldest university natural history museums.
Wooster Square – between Academy, Chapel & Greene Streets and Wooster Place; 203-946-8027;; site of St. Michael’s Catholic Church (1855); awash in cherry trees.
Yale University Architecture Walk – 149 Elm Street (Yale University Visitor Center); 203-432-2300 (same);; from 1752 Connecticut Hall to 1958 Eero Saarinen ice skating rink; guided or self-guided.
Yale Center for British Art – 1080 Chapel Street; 203-432-2800;; Louis Kahn’s last building, completed in 1977 (after his death); masterpieces by J.M.W. Turner, George Stubbs, Joshua Reynolds, and Thomas Gainsborough.
Yale University Art Gallery – 1111 Chapel Street; 203-432-0600;; Louis Kahn’s 1st major building (1953); modern and Dada masterpieces (Marcel Duchamp, Roy Lichtenstein, and Man Ray); also see Eduard Vuillard’s The Thread.

Sunday, November 18, 2012


Sights & Sites
Old Dongola – near Wadi Al-Malik (east bank of Nile River, opposite); deserted town, once important medieval city and departure point for caravans west to Darfur and Kordofan; from 4th-14th Century, Makurian state capital.

Acropole Khartoum Hotel – Zubeir Pasha Street (Khartoum); 011-249-18-377-2860;; journalists’ 1st choice; reeks of intrigue.
Bougainvilla Guesthouse – House 339, Block 21 (Khartoum); 011-249-18-322-2104;; Norwegian-owned; clean, with rooftop bar and restaurant.
Corinthia Hotel Khartoum – Nile Street (Khartoum); 011-249-18-715-5555;
Askela – Nile Street (Khartoum, opposite Friendship Hall); riverside location, across from National Museum; lots of fish; wonderful place for evening drink.
Havana – Mashtal Street (Khartoum, Riyadh); 011-249-18-325-3500; Lebanese; where expats eat.
Little India – Street 41, Plot 47 (Khartoum); 011-249-91-230-6543; Indian, Thai, and continental.
Sights & Sites
Al Mogran Family Park – between Al Imam Al Mahdi & Nile Streets (Khartoum, 3-4 kms west of Presidential Palace);; Blue-White Nile Confluence (called Al-Mogran) best seen from metal bridge (old one, not newer, concrete one) linking Khartoum and Omdurman; NO PHOTOS from bridge.
Al-Shifa Pharmaceutical Factory – Bahri (north Khartoum); Tomahawked in 1998; quite easy to reach (minibus to Bahri, then taxi); guards are quite friendly and will let you in for wander; contribution gratefully received.
Blue Nile Sailing Club – Khartoum; gray-colored boat onshore about 50m from Nile River banks is El Malik, formerly one of Kitchener’s gunboats (served in Battle of Omdurman); after retiring from government service, handed over to Blue Nile Sailing Club and used as its headquarters; still operational clubhouse where can hire small boats to cruise or sail along Blue Nile.
Camel Market – Souk Moowaileh (Omdurman).
Ethnographic Museum – Al Gamaa Street (Khartoum, at Mak Nemir Avenue); fascinating, little museum.
Khalifa’s House – Omdurman; Abdullah al-Taaisha, also known as Khalifa, succeeded as Mahdist leader on Mahdi’s death; his house is now museum; exhibits include various remnants from old battles and some interesting old British newspaper clippings reporting British efforts in Sudan.
National Museum – Nile Street (Khartoum); dwarfed by modern buildings nearby; fine exhibits in dusty halls, most notably pharaonic stone carvings and stunning Nubian Christian frescoes; museum gardens also house several Kushite and Egyptian temples saved during Aswan Dam construction.
Nile Street (Shari’a Al-Nil) – Khartoum; prettiest street, with Blue Nile on one side; lined with pretty, albeit decaying-looking, colonial buildings, most of which are used as ministries, schools and even hotel (Grand Holiday Villa Khartoum); tree-lined most of way (except towards west); sidewalk.
Nuba Wrestling – Bahri (Khartoum, north, next to Souk Sita Al Haj Yousef); every Friday at 4pm; 2 wrestler teams battle it out; spectacle well worth trip.
Omdurman Souk – Omdurman; among Africa’s largest markets; handicraft street is quite difficult to find (towards northern end, near gold section and not on western side); street is actually covered lane between 2 buildings with gates at either end.
Presidential Palace Museum – Al Gamaa Street (Khartoum); housed in impressive, century-old Palace Cathedral; from paintings of Sir Gordon Pasha to more recent ruler’s Presidential cars.
Sheikh Hamad El Nil Tomb – Omdurman (2 kms south of Omdurman Souk);; constructed in 1936; sufi dancing around 4-5 p.m.

Tented Camp – Bagarwyia;,_Sudan.html.
Sights & Sites
Royal Cemetery – Begarawiyah;; among Sudan’s most spectacular sights; Meroitic pharaohs thrived from 592 BCE until overrun by Abyssinians in 350; narrow pyramid clusters blanket sand-swept hills; some well-preserved hieroglyphics can still be seen in tombs’ antechambers.

Sights & Sites
Amun & Apedemak Temples – Naga;; ancient Egpytian-Meroitic temples.

Tuesday, November 6, 2012


(includes Atrani, Cameroata, Capaccio Paestum, Conca dei Marini, Maiori, Massicelle, Nerano, Ogliastro Cilento, Palinuro, Pisciotta, Positano, Punta Licosa, Punta Quaglia, Ravello, San Giovanni a Piro, Santa Maria di Castellabate, Scario & Vallo della Lucania)

Pasticceria Pansa – 40 Piazza Duomo (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1065;
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832;; on beach; coffee.

Enoteca Osteria Perbacco – 5 Contrada Marina Campagna (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3889;; wine bar with sea views.
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832;; on beach.
Ristorante K – Piazza Giusepe Comunale (San Marco di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-6394;

Arco Naturale – Palinuro (outside center, towards Marina di Camerota); compound rock/sandy beach famous for natural arch that encloses one little bearch.
Buondormire Beach – Palinuro (at head); reachable only by boat; has cape’s clearest water and finest sand; encircled from peak to reef.
Marinella Beach – Palinuro (at Lambro River’s end, reached by long stair in rocks that arrives to beach from Palinuro Cape’s top); sand is white and very soft; incomparable vies (can see coast until Marina di Camerota); in summer, can rent beach umbrellas and equipment directly on the beach.

Cathedral – Palinuro; large cavities submerged with 4 air domes.
Grotta Azzurra (Blue Cave) – Punta Quaglia (trail to cave crosses); 2 underwater entrances; maximum depth is 33 ms.
Sala della Neve (Hall of Snow) – Palinuro; 26 x 45 ms; on floor, area with 3 depressions, from one of which arises sulphur spring (clearly visible, discharge creates snowfall effect).

La Conca del Sogna – 9 Via San Marciano (Nerano); 011-39-081-808-1036;; more of bed & breakfast with 6 comfortable rooms.
Locanda San Fantino – 8 Via San Fantino (Scario); 011-39-97-498-3442;; rustic farmhouse available for rent or as B&B; dizzying views; nicest bedrooms upstairs; landowner Sebastiano Petrilli offers cooking and hiking services, including seeking 70 different types wild orchids that grow on nearby Mount Cervati; simple; use as base to swim in Bussento River.
Marulivo Hotel – Via Castello (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3792;; converted monastery; vertiginous veranda series with rooms attached; high above cobbled streets that are off-limits to cars.
Monastero Santa Rosa – 2 Via Roma (Conca dei Marini); 011-39-089-832-1199;; 17th Century convent turned hotel; 20 bedroom suites; infinity pool.
Palazzo Belmonte – 25 Via Flavio Gioia (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-0211;; Prince Angelo Granito Pignatelli di Belmonte’s family castle (he still lives in private wing); walled estate sheltered behind palms and umbrella pines; optimal suite is Cirtonella (in Edoardo House).
Palazzo Sasso – 28 Via San Giovanni del Toro (Ravello); 011-39-89-818-181;; former palace on Amalfi Coast; spectacular service and setting.
Il San Pietro di Positano – 2 Via Laurito; 011-39-089-875-455;; spread over cliff ledges; dreamlike accommodations; excellent restaurant; 1st choice in Positano.
Hotel Santa Caterina – 163 Strada (Atrani); 011-39-089-871-012;; on mainland across from Capri; 103 year-old hotel with breath-taking views; terraced citrus groves; additional structure, Villa il Rosso, has 4 rooms with original antiques.
Villa Cimbrone – 26 Via Santa Chiara (Ravello); 011-39-089-857-459;; featured in Trip to Italy; medieval palazzo with sumptuous suites, panoramic pool, formal gardens & most beautiful panorama; on sheer-sided spur high above sea; vie for sea-view suite; grounds are what most people come for, with long avenues of umbrella pines, fragrant rose gardens, trellises dripping with wysteria, belvedere fringed with marble busts, even pseudo-Roman temple; gourmet restaurant on poolside veranda.
Villa Serena – Punta Licosa; 011-39-97-496-0211;; owned by Palazzo Belmonte; villa sleeps 14; former castle hunting grounds on UNESCO-protected nature reserve; lovely.
Le Sirenuse – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo; 011-39-89-875-766;; romantic with excellent restaurant.

Ristorante Angiolina – 2 Via Passariello (Pisciotta, at Marina); 011-39-97-497-3188;; where 90 year-old Nonna Angiolina still prepares and serves best fish soup this side of Naples.
La Caravella – 12 Via Mattteo Camera (Atrani); 011-39-08-987-1029;; Amalfi’s best restaurant.
Ristorante da Carmine – 37 Via Provinciale (Ogliastro Cilento, at marina); 011-39-97-496-3023;; memorable, simple pasta dishes.
Il Cefalo – Via Monsignor Passaro (Ogliastro, at Marina); 011-39-97-496-3019;; chic.
La Conca del Sogna – 9 Via San Marciano (Nerano); 011-39-081-808-1036;; tables swathed in white cloth, perched on terrace overlooking blowhole and huge stone basin of sea water in which your lunch is swimming; stay all day.
Eolo – 3 Via Pantaleone Comite (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1241;; seafood.
Enoteca Osteria Perbacco – 5 Contrada Marina Campagna (Pisciotta); 011-39-97-497-3889;; specialities include fiori di zucca con ricotta e alici (zucchini blossoms with ricotta and salted anchovies); sea views.
Ristorante K – Piazza Giusepe Comunale (San Marco di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-6394;; some consider best seafood on Amalfi Coast.
A’Paranzi – ½ Via Dragone (Atrani); 011-39-08-987-1840; seafood.
PerBacco – 19 Via Andrea Guglielmini (Santa Maria di Castellabate); 011-39-97-496-1832;; seafood; linguini with fava beans and squid is excellent; on beach.
Ristorante Pizzeria da Giggino il Pirata – 27 Via Principe Amedeo (San Giovanni a Piro); 011-39-97-498-6117; pizzeria.
Lo Scoglio – Scario; 011-39-97-498-6747; pizzeria.
La Sponda – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo (at Le Sirenuse); 011-39-89-875-766;; walls decorated with bougainvillea and 450 candles.
La Tana del Lupo – Scario; 011-39-339-507-5564; simple country grills and salads.
La Torre Normanna – 4 Via Diego Tajani (Maiori); 011-39-08-987-7100;; in tower built in 1562 beautiful; seafood.
U Zifaro – 43 Via Lungomare (Scario); 011-39-97-498-6397;; some of best regional seafood.

Coast Lines – Piazza del Municipio (Amalfi); 011-39-08-987-1483 or 011-39-348-729-0275 (ask for Captain Maurizio Esposito and boat, Riva Furama);
Scario Beach Shuttle – Via Lungomare Guglielmo Marconi (ask at Bar Tony); will take you to beaches accessible only by water.
Spiaggia da Peppe – between Camerota & Palinuro; 011-39-347-856-5596; beach equipment (sunbeds, umbrellas) rentals.

Emporio Le Sirenuse – 30 Via Cristoforo Colombo; 011-39-089-875-066;; eau d’Italie products.
Il Granato – Spinazzo (Capaccio Paestum); 011-39-082-872-2712;; mozzarella produced by Tenuta Vannulo dairy.
Punta Licosa Estate – 25 Via Flavio Gioia (Santa Maria di Castellabate, at Palazzo Belmonte); 011-39-97-496-0211;; olive oil.
Saverio Scanniello – Via Ciardelle (Massicelle); 011-39-97-495-3772;; hand-made olive wood products.
Tenuta Vannulo – Spinazzo (Capaccio Paestum); 011-39-082-872-2712;; dairy noted for its mozzarella.

Cilento & Vallo di Diano National Park – 8 Contrada Santa Caterina (Vallo della Lucania); 011-39-97-471-9911;
Gran Furor Divina Costiera di Marisa Cuomo – 14 Via G.B. Lama (Furore); 011-39-08-983-0348;; day tour of vineyards; note that Furore is UNESCO World Heritage site.
Marina del Cantone – day trip to small town, west of Positano (eat at Taverna del Capitano (Marina del Cantone) and Quattro Passi (same), both Michelin starred; also, Lo Scoglio (same)).
Palinuro Cape – extends into sea in pentadattilo (“hand-like”) form from Campania coast, with cliffs that fall into sea from more than 50 ms; Cape Palinuro lighthouse; rocks shelter nesting birds; 32 caves (diving), of which most popular is Grotta Azzurra (“Blue Cave”), so-called for light color on water, cave containing sulfur water source.

Wednesday, October 31, 2012


(includes Herzliya, Jaffa, Rehovot & Umm al Fahm)

Bialik Café – 2 Bialik 2; 011-972-03-620-0832;; notable for Israeli breakfast; wide selection chopped salads with eggs; neighborhood-hangout feel & old-fashioned chrome bar stools and wooden tables.
Café Europa – 9 Rothschild; 011-972-03-525-9987; coffee.
Café Suzanna – 9 Shabazi (Neve Tzedek); 011-972-03-517-7580;; for brioche & coffee.
LovEat – 37 Nachalat Binyamin (near Carmel Market); 011-972-03-566-6699;; organic coffee shop with excellent, in-house coffee blend; wooden deck out back is lovely place to sit.

Bialik Café – 2 Bialik 2; 011-972-03-620-0832;; live music in evenings.
Cafe Europa – 9 Rothschild Avenue (Habima); 011-972-03-525-9987; trendy watering hole.
Café Suzanna – 9 Shabazi (Neve Tzedek); 011-972-03-517-7580;; rooftop terrace bar in evenings.
Dan Tel Aviv – 99 HaYarkon (at Hotel); 011-972-03-520-2552;
Dizzy Frishdon – 121 Dizengoff Street; 011-972-03-523-4111; great bar that also serves fine food; name made up of 3 street names (Dizengof, Frishman, Gordon), located right in busy Dizengof’s core; dark atmosphere and always lines to get in, but never packed once you get in.
Har Sinai – 2 Har Sinai (at Allenby Street);; tiny, in-know spot, where action spills into street.
Messa – 19 Haarbaa Street; 011-972-03-685-6859;; dramatic black-on-black designer bar in which to see and be seen.
Micatronix – 28 Ben Yehuda Street; 011-972-03-603-4005; really hidden, no way of finding if you don’t already know about it; hidden inside shop, have to buzz intercom to get in; electronic music, techno, off-electro.
Next Door – 52 Chen Boulevard; 011-972-03-695-6276; cozy bar, belonging to well-known restaurant “Meat Bar”; great food & music.
Otto Bar – 76 Ibn Gvirol (directly across from Rabin Square); no phone or website; no real door at entrance, so just look for beer crates stacked in corridor; once you’re inside, impressive array beer, cocktails & wine.
Radio E.P.G.B. – 7 Shadal (at Yehuda Halevi Street); 011-972-03-560-3636;; Israeli take on New York’s late, lamented rock club CBGB.
Rothschild 12 – 12 Rothschild Boulevard; 011-972-03-510-6430;; New York style bar located in old building designated to be torn down; live shows on Tuesdays & Saturday.
Shalom Hotel & Relax – 216 Hayarkon Street; 011-972-03-542-5555;; block from beach; 24-hour roof-top deck bar (open to public in summer); beautiful at sunset.
Shesek – 17 Lilenblum Street; 011-972-03-516-9520;; good DJs; open late.
Shine – 38 Shlomo Hamelech; 011-972-03-527-6186;; happening bar scene.
Taxidermy – 18 Ha Rakevet or 33 HaHashmal; 011-972-05-4260-9003;; dark boîte whose walls are mounted with stag heads & stuffed pheasants.
Wine Bar – 36 Nachalat Binyamin; 011-972-03-510-2923;; tapas.


Brown TLV – 25 Kalisher Street; 011-972-03-717-0200;; boutique.
Dan Accadia Herzliya Hotel – Herzliya Beach; 011-972-09-959-7070;; 3 buildings surrounded by gardens, which surround pool overlooking sea; standard rooms in older wing have balconies with sea views; ground floor rooms have outdoor whirlpools.
Dan Tel Aviv – 99 HaYarkon; 011-972-03-520-2552;; grande dame on beach; floor-to-ceiling views; room 372 is excellent.
Hotel Montefiore – 36 Montefiore; 011-972-03-564-6100;; boutique.
Rothschild – 96 & 71 Rothschild Boulevard; 011-972-03-629-0555;; luxury boutique.
Shalom Hotel and Relax – 216 Hayarkon Street; 011-972-03-542-5555;; 51-room boutique; block from beach; ask for sea-view spa room; 24-hour roof-top deck bar (open to public in summer).
Hotel Varsano – 16 Hevrat Shass (Neve Tzedek); 011-972-077-554-5500;; modern retreat near sea.

Anina – 2 Hayim Levanon (Ramat Aviv); 011-972-03-641-2288;; near Eretz Israel Museum.
Babai – 153 Kedem Street (Jaffa); 011-972-03-659-3999; fish.
Al Babor – Ein Ibrahim Junction (Umm al Fahm); 011-972-04-611-0691; famous; must try rice-stuffed roast leg of lamb.”
Basta – 4 Hashomer; 011-972-03-516-9234; chef Maoz Alonim operates this place and Cafe Europa; Israeli but not kosher.
Brasserie M&R – 70 Ibn Gvirol Street (City Hall Area); 011-972-03-696-7111; among city’s most popular restaurants; French; always busy; oysters, pate, steaks; neighborhood atmosphere.
Café Ben Ami – 22 Nachmani Street; 011-972-03-560-9960;; closed Friday night/Saturday; full of models and media types, during day; serves some of best pastries in town.
Café Europa – 9 Rothschild; 011-972-03-525-9987; chef Maoz Alonim operates this place and Basta; Israeli but not kosher.
Cafe Ha’Tachtit – 9 Lincoln Street (at Wilson & Saadia Gaon Streets; 011-972-03-561-8759;; notable breakfasts (popular with locals); bar & cafe; open 24 hours; cozy; attracts artsy/bohemian crowd that includes some well-known media types.
Caffé Michal – 230 Dizengoff Street (corner of Jabotinsky); 011-972-03-523-0236;; Levantine/North African food is memorably delicious; upscale flea market decor; regulars include some famous authors & poets.
Café Suzanna – 9 Shabazi (Neve Tzedek); 011-972-03-517-7580;; charming spot filled with people from nearby theater and dance groups, boutique shoppers, and locals; light meals include cheese, focaccia, pasta, salads, seafood & soups.
Caffeine – 63 Nachalat Binyamin Street; 011-972-03-686-8986; charming, Georgian-Russian café; try khachapuri (signature bread filled with suluguni, national cheese).
Canteen – 71 Rothschild Boulevard; 011-972-03-620-5051;; Italian; Italian; best place for people-watching: actors, models, Russian oligarchs.
Catit – 4 Heichal Ha-talmud; 011-972-03-510-7001;; no menu in country more complex, expertly prepared (Meir Adoni), or rich; try grilled calamari, filled with lamb meat and mozzarella, in grilled eggplant, goat yogurt, techina, roasted bean, and olive oil or sea fish ceviche with red beet carpaccio and sheep yogurt ravioli in basil and green oil or foie gras on grilled semolina with vanilla pastry and caramelized bananas in coffee and veal stock sauce; prices among highest in Israel but 2 luncheon prix-fixe specials make tolerable.
Delicatessen 79/81 – 79-81 Yehuda Halevy; 011-972-03-968-1010;; scene-y lunch spot.
Dr. Shakshuka Restaurant – 4 Beit Eshel Street (Jaffa); 011-972-03-518-6560; with long, shared tables; great food and prices; among country’s best ethnic restaurants; shakshuka is pan-fried poached egg and spicy tomato sauce casserole; also worth trying are Tripoli-style couscous with mafrum (potato stuffed with ground meat, served with stewed beef and vegetable soup), stuffed vegetables, and kishke (North African-style intestine stuffed with meat and rice).
18 Balfour Street – 18 Balfour Street; 011-972-03-808-0017;; tucked away on quiet corner; beautiful little café looks like something out of Paris during Belle Epoque; croissants are better than Paris, though; closed Saturday.
Haj Kahil – 18 Raziel Street (Jaffa); 011-972-03-518-8866;; Palestinian.
Hashaked – 90 Hashmonaim; 011-972-03-561-0546;; great seafood.
Ha’Kovshim – 48 Ha’Kovshim; 011-972-03-510-8555;; pleasant, pretty bistro-cafe; notable for breakfast; not too far from Ha’Carmel Market.
Ha’Salon – 8 Ma’Avar Yavok Street; 011-972-52-703-5888; market-to-table food; only open 2 nights weekly.
Hotel Montefiore – 36 Montefiore; 011-972-03-564-6100;; brasserie; good for lunch.
Kalamata – 10 Kedumim Square (Jaffa); 011-972-03-681-9998;; Greek-Israeli mezes; tables high above Mediterranean, in ancient building in old city’s heart.
Doris Katzavim Restaurant – 65 Yigal Allon Street; 011-972-599-500-021;; some of city’s best hamburgers and steaks.
Manta Ray – Alma Beach (on promenade); 011-972-03-517-4773;; grilled seafood and mezes, right on beach.
Messa – 19 Haarbaa Street; 011-972-03-685-6859;; in market; reservations; daring, much-talked-about, 21st Century design (white on white, polished white marble floors, drapes, and long white communal table with polished burl-wood top running down dining room’s center, lined with facing columns of white upholstered arm chairs; gourmet menu choices (some touched with chef’s Kurdish family traditions) constantly change; look for calamari served with lemon cream eel and goose liver; main-course hits include seafood toast grilled coquilles St. Jacques and shrimp served on thickly sliced toast with anchovy butter and/or seafood couscous in crab and lemon thyme broth; dramatic black-on-black designer bar in which to see and be seen.
Mizlala by Meir Adoni – 57 Nahalat Binyamin (Jaffa); 011-972-03-566-5505;; lunch and dinner; seems almost more like well-designed club than restaurant; inspired modern Israeli-Moroccan-Mediterranean.
Miznon – 23 Ibn Gvirol 23; 011-972-03-716-8977; rethinks “pita joint” concept.
Nanuchka – 30 Lillienblum Street; 011-972-03-516-2254; Georgian-Russian specialty foods in late-night, ebullient atmosphere (dancing on tables).
Café Noach – 93 Ahad Ha’am (corner of Ha’Hashmonaim); 011-972-03-629-3799; book-lined café popular with writers; closed Friday night/Saturday.
Old Man and Sea – 83 Kedem Street (Jaffa); 011-972-03-681-8699;; grilled fish; on cliff, overlooking sea.
Puah Café – 8 Rabbi Yohanan Street; 011-972-03-682-3821;; just few steps from Jaffa flea market; stunningly beautiful café-cum-art gallery; upscale café food & excellent homemade French pastries.
Rothschild 12 – 12 Rothschild Boulevard; 011-972-03-510-6430;
Herbert Samuel – 6 Koifman Street; 011-972-03-516-6516;; overlooks beach; very chic; must have reservations.
Suzanna – 9 Shabazi Street (Neve Tzedek, opposite Suzanne Dellal Center for Modern Dance); 011-972-03-517-7580;; Mediterranean & North African cuisine.
Tapas 1 Ha’am – 27 Ahad Ha’am; 011-972-03-566-6966; small plates hangout.
Tzfon Abraxas – 40 Lilinblum (Rothchild Quarter); 011-972-054-678-6560.
Yam 7 – 122 Ramat Yam (Herzliya, near Dan Accadia Herzliya Hotel); 011-972-09-956-6950;; have ceviche under umbrella on beach, overlooking Mediterranean.

Or Rein – 011-972-052-236-6006; offers personal Bauhaus district tours.

Ayala Bar – 36 Shabazi Street (Neve Tzedek); 011-972-03-5100-082;; jewelry designer Ayala Bar uses beads, fabric, and glass.
Dorit Bar Or – 6 Kol Israel Haverim Street; clothing.
Dunia – 11 Yehudah He’Chasid Street (Neve Tzedek); 011-972-03-5161-813;; leather bags.
Elemento – 15 Hazorfirm Street; 011-972-03-620-9848;; contemporary textiles.
Jaffa Flea Market (Shuk Ha Pishpishim) – Yefet Street (Jaffa, at Old Jaffa foot, east of clock tower);; best buys here early Sunday morning; weave way through mixed array junk & treasures: brass, copper, jewelry, old Persian tiles, as well as Judaica, old family-photo albums, and tons of used jeans and mildewed clothing from India.
Litvak Gallery – 4 Berkovitz Street (at Museum Tower); 011-972-03-716-3897;; glass art.
Maya Negri – 10 Ahad Ha’am Street (Rothschild I Tower); 011-972-9-835-6450;; Tel Aviv’s Donna Karan.
Maya Negri – 132 Zabotinsky 132 (Kikar Hamedina, on He Be’Iyar corner); 011-972-03-695-5133;; Tel Aviv’s Donna Karan.
Maya Negri – 5 Tel Giborim; 011-972-03-683-2152;; Tel Aviv’s Donna Karan; outlet.
Mizo – 51 Shabazi Street (Neve Tzedek); 011-972-03-5164-105;; Zen-inspired clothing boutique.
Pas Pour Toi – 6 Kol Israel Haverim; 011-972-077-440-5516;; luxe caftans.
Ruby Star – 13 Amiad; 011-972-03-683-2172;; vintage-inspired jewelry.
Samy D. – 56 Shabazi Street (Neve Tzedek); 011-972-03-5164-968;; unusually styled kitchenwares.
Shouk HaCarmel – bordered by Allenby Street and Magen David Square, principally located along Carmel Street (which becomes King George Street after Magen David Square), but has expanded over streets such as Nahalat Binyamin Street; Tel Aviv’s largest bazaar; open every day except Shabbat (Saturday); sells mostly food but also home accessories and flowers.
Sigal Dekel – 26 Shabazi Street (Neve Zedek); 011-972-732-150-150;; women’s fashion.
Sigal Dekel – 228 Dizengoff Street; 011-972-732-150-150;; women’s fashion.

Bauhaus Centre Tel Aviv – 99 Dizengoff Street; 011-972-03-522-0249;
Bauhaus District – around Rothschild Boulevard.
Beit Hatfutsot – Gate 2, Tel Aviv University Campus; 011-972-03-745-7800;; “Museum of Jewish People.”
Beit Rishonim – 8 ha-Nadiv Street (Herzliya); 011-972-9-954-8561; “Founders’ House.”
Charles Clore Park – Tayelet Boardwalk; 011-972-03-640-2222;; beachfront public park along Mediterranean Sea.
Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance & Theatre – 6 Yehieli Street (Neve Tzedek; 011-972-03-510-5656;; pair of whitewashed buildings (1 built in 1892, other in 1908) make up this attractive complex; square, designed by foremost landscape designer Shlomo Aronson, modelled on medieval Middle Eastern courtyard with orange trees connected by water channels; 1 side square decorated with tile triptych, which illustrates neighborhood history and famous people who have lived here (e.g., S. Y. Agnon); café-bar on premises.
Gesher Theater – 9 Yerushalaim Boulevard; 011-972-03-515-7000;; Russian theater.
Ilana Goor Museum – 4 Mazal Dagim Street (Jaffa); 011-972-03-683-7676;; Israeli artist Ilana Goor works and resides in this restored 18th Century house with its romantic stone arches and high ceilings; originally housed 1st Jewish inn for holy land pilgrims.
HaYarkon Park – Hata’arucha Road; 011-972-03-642-2828 or 011-972-03-699-0307;; green wooded expanse beside HaYarkon River; row boats for hire; basketball courts, climbing wall, football fields, skate park, and 3.5 miles jogging trails.
Holon Design Museum – 8 Pinchas Eylon Street (Holon); 011-972-7-3215-1515;
Jaffa Port – Jaffa; founded, per Old Testament, by Japheth, in wake of great flood; Israelites lost town in 1468 BCE to Egyptians, whose soldiers made their surprise entry hidden in clay pots; came to prominence as port under Solomon; Islam swept over port in 8th Century, to be repelled briefly during Crusader conquests; from that time on, remained in Muslim hands until British General Allenby drove out Turks in 1917; worth special trip.
Kikar Hamedina – among Tel Aviv’s largest squares; prime shopping area.
Matkot Museum – 61 Rehov Shabazi (Neveh Tzedek); 011-972-52-277-7188;; often referred to as Israel’s unofficial national sport, Matkot combines ping pong, squash, and tennis; quintessential beach pastime in Israel.
Nachalat Binyamin Pedestrian Mall – Jaffa; arts-&-crafts bazaar worth special visit.
Ariel Sharon Park – near Holon; 011-972-03-739-6633 (recycling center tour);; view from 60 m high mound is spectacular (Mediterranean to Judean Mountains, with Tel Aviv’s skyscrapers in between); less than decade ago, active landfill; carefully tended garden near visitor center is mini-wetland; at 2K acres, among world’s largest urban parks; cycling & walking trails, recreational pond, tiny zoo, and picnic areas.
Neve Tzedek – Tel Aviv’s 1st Jewish neighborhood; now all galleries, restaurants, and shops; lovely for strolling.
Palamach Museum – 10 Haim Levanon Street (Yafo); 011-972-03-643-6393 (must have reservation);; museum makes you feel as if you were back in Palmach (pre-State underground) Era with young defenders.
Tayelet Boardwalk – promenade that runs along Mediterranean seashore from Jaffa to Tel Aviv.
Tel Aviv Museum of Art – 27 Shaul Hamelech Boulevard; 011-972-03-607-7020;; holdings include Chagall, Kandinsky, Lichtenstein, Picasso, Pissaro & Rothko.
Weizmann Institute of Science (Chaim Weizmann House) – 234 Herzl Street (Rehovot); 011-972-08-934-3111;; graduate studies institute; worth special trip is Chaim Weizmann House; designed by Jewish architect Erich Mendelsohn, and recognized as masterpiece; now houses small museum.

Monday, October 29, 2012


(includes Gassin, La Lavandou, Port Grimaud, Ramatuelle & Sainte-Maxime)

Marcel et Cavazza – 29 Rue Georges Clemenceau; 011-33-4-9497-8353;; since 1945; specializes in vanilla pastry with cream filling (Tropezienne, name suggested by Brigitee Bardot while she was in St. Tropez, in 1955, while filming And God Created Woman).

Cafe Senequier – Sur le Port St. Tropez; 011-33-4-9497-0090; chic place for early evening cocktails.
Les Caves du Roy – Avenue Paul Signac (at Hotel Byblos); 011-33-4-9456-6800;; extremely over-priced, movie star and tycoon hangout.
Hotel Sube – 15 Quai Suffren;; 011-33-4-8961-9002; 2nd floor terrace w/view (real in place).
Kube Hotel – Route de St.-Tropez (Gassin); 011-33-4-9497-2000;; with 4 bars, essentially party complex; underground “Ice Kube” is subzero room lined with ice – $50 gets you parka and 4 vodka drinks; rooftop “Skybar” specializes in champagne and gulf views; poolside Terrasse Martini has white couches; 4th bar is sci-fi lobby lounge.
Pan Dei Palais Hotel – 52 Rue Gambetta (pool bar); 011-33-4-9417-7171;; carved screens and Hindu god statutes surrounded by chaises lounges and 4-poster beds; try “Red One” (Monkey Shoulder Scotch, amaretto, lemon, strawberry juice, and fig syrup).
Le Quai – 22 Quai Jean Jaures; 011-33-4-9497-0407;; black banquettes, black carpet, and black glass tables; funk and R&B music.

Aqua Club – Plage de Pampelonne, Roue de l’Epi (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9479-8435;; very gay-friendly.
La Cabane Bambou – Plage de Pampelonne, Route de Bonne Terrasse (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9479-8413;; laid back beach club good for families; good food.
Club 55 – Plage de Pampelonne, Boulevard Patch (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9455-5555;; for “self-styled elite.”
New Coco Beach – Plage de Pampelonne, Route de l’Epi (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9479-8325;; new; equipped with bar and restaurant; reasonably-volumed music; rental chairs; more middle-class crowd.
Nikki Beach – Plage de Pampelonne, Route de l’Epi (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9479-8204;; bathing suit top optional.

B. Lodge – 23 Rue d l’Aioli; 011-33-4-9497-0657;; modern gray and white tones; pleasant bar and restaurant; affordable.
Benkirai – 11 Chemin du Pinet (former Lou Pinet St. Tropez); 011-33-4-9497-0437;; in quiet neighborhood on Cap du Pinet, this 42-room hotel is for those who love St. Tropez at arm’s length; beautiful pool; snug rooms; restaurant scene is fabulous; May and September are best months; room with direct access to pool, such as #16, is best.
Hotel De La Ponche – 3 Rue des Remparts; 011-33-4-9497-0253;; best-kept secret boutique around; excellent restaurant.
Hotel Ermitage – Avenue Paul Signac; 011-33-4-9497-5233;; impeccably sourced retro furniture and panoramic terrace restaurant; 27 rooms; effortlessly cool; affordable.
Pan dei Palais – 52 Rue Gambetta; 011-33-4-9417-7171;; 12 rooms in apricot-painted villa in town’s heart; feels like intimate guest house; lovely pool; May and September best months; suites or Chambre Prestige (with pool view) are best.
La Reserve Ramatuelle – Chemin de la Quessine (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9444-9444;
Villa Marie – Route des Plages, Chemin Val Rian (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9497-4022;; absolutely “the” place to stay – can’t be beat for combination of accommodations and price.

Club Cinquante Cinq – Boulevard Patch (Ramatuelle, at Pampelonne Beach); 011-33-4-9455-5555; lunchtime beach destination accessed by narrow road, clogged bumper to bumper by high-ticket automobiles; among toughest tables to book for lunch in high season; beach club divided between main restaurant and canopy-shaded beach bar; overgrown bamboo forest is backdrop; one-time, ramshackle beach hut where Colmont family lived; they wound up catering for And God Created Woman cast and crew; fresh wild salad and interesting menu.
Colette – Route des Salins (at Hotel Sezz); 011-33-4-9444-5311;; décor is aswarm with stars.
Cristina Saulini – 13 Rue des Feniers; 011-33-4-9497-4610;; excellent Italian food.
Le Dit Vin – 43 Rue du Portail Neuf; 011-33-4-9479-8509; tapas; affordable with lovely, peaceful dining room and terrace.
La Kemia – 10 Avenue General LeClerc (Sainte-Maxime); 011-33-4-9497-2068; known for its tagines.

Bay Cruises – Vieux Port (in front of Café de Paris); 011-33-6-0709-2127;; ask for 1-hour cruise on Brigantin II so Captain Stephane can regale you with inside anecdotes and gossip about glitterati.

Atelier Rondini – 18 Rue Georges Clemenceau; 011-33-4-9497-1955;; simple leather sandals, popular since at least Colette (1927).
Rose Calin – 27 Rue Georges Clemenceau; 011-33-4-9454-8254;; top children’s clothing for 30 years.
Martine Chambon – 62 Rue Francois Sibilli; 011-33-4-9497-0960;; women’s wear boutique.
La Chemise Tropezienne – 23 Rue Gambetta; 011-33-4-9479-5975;; locally designed dress shirts.
Le Depot – 6 Boulevard Louis Blanc; 011-33-4-9497-8010; vintage haute couture.
Frisson – 2 Rue Jean Mermoz; 011-33-4-9454-2792;; lingerie.
Gas Bijoux – 15 Quai Suffren (Place de la Garonne); 011-33-4-9497-2652;
Luxury Stuff & Toys – 1 Place de la Croix de Fer; 011-33-4-9497-5155;; like name says.
La Maison des Papillons – 17 Rue Etienne Berny; 011-33-4-9497-6345;; 35K species displayed with photography atelier upstairs.
Marinette – 22 Rue Georges Clemenceau; 011-33-4-9456-2317;; home decor.
Truffaux – 5 Rue des Commercants; 011-33-4-9456-5138;; panama hats.
Vignobles de Saint-Tropez – Avenue Paul Roussel; 011-33-4-9497-0160;; wine store.
Vilebrequin – 9 Rue Jean Mermoz; 011-33-4-9497-6712;; luxury swimwear.

Citadelle – Rue de la Citadelle (above city); 011-33-4-9497-5943;
Helene & Pierre Lazareff Villa – La Lavandou; originally media barons Helene and Pierre Lazareff’s Riviera home where they entertained Hollywood royalty, such as Deborah Kerr, David Niven, and Jean Seberg during Bonjour Tristesse’s filming.
La Maison des Papillons – 17 Rue Etienne Berny; 011-33-4-9497-6345;; 35K species displayed with photography atelier upstairs.
Musee de l’Annonciade – Place Grammont; 011-33-4-9417-8410; 16th Century church turned museum.
Place des Lices – centrally located, with Saturday morning market.


(includes Le Cannet, Eze, Golfe-Juan & Vallauris)

L’Amiral – 73 Boulevard de la Croisette (Cannes); 011-33-4-9298-7300;; Gerard Depardieu is regular patron.
Grand Hotel – 45 Boulevard de la Croisette (Cannes); 011-33-4-9338-1545;; sit on outdoor terrace.
Le Petit Majestic – 6 Rue Tony Allard (Cannes); 011-33-4-9339-9492;; where old-time Hollywood drinks.

Cap Estel – 1312 Avenue Raymond Poincare (Eze); 011-33-4-9376-2929;; on own, 5-acre peninsula between Monte Carlo and Nice.
Chateau de la Chevre D’Or – Rue du Barri (Eze); 011-33-4-9210-6666;; on cliff with spectacular views; 2 star restaurant.
Chateau Eza – Rue de la Pise (Eze); 011-33-4-9341-1224;
Hotel du Chateau de la Tour – 10 Avenue Font de Veyre (La Bocca); 011-33-4-9390-5252;; affordable; 34 rooms; ocean views and pool.
Chateau St.-Martin & Spa – Avenue des Templiers; 011-33-4-9293-5802;; old-world castle appeal; junior suites have panoramic views from terraces.
1835 White Palm Hotel – 1 Boulevard Jean Hibert; 011-33-4-9299-5010;
Intercontinental Carlton – 58 Boulevard de la Croisette (Cannes); 011-33-8-0090-6569;; Belle Epoque mainstay with beachfront Hollywood ambience; beautiful views.
Majestic Barriere – 10 Boulevard de la Croisette (Cannes); 011-33-4-9298-7700;; recently renovated; seafront building with elegant suites.

Aux Bons Enfants – 80 Rue Meynadier (Cannes); 011-33-4-9338-5214; rustic, family-run restaurant that serves Provencal dishes like tarragon-baked rabbit; cheap.
Restaurant Felix – 63 Boulevard de la Croisette (Cannes); 011-33-4-9394-0061;; seafood.
L’Atelier Jean-Luc Pele – 36 Rue Meynadier (Cannes); 011-33-4-9338-0610;; chocolates; Createur de Gout.
Café Lenotre – 63 Rue d’Antibes (Cannes); 011-33-4-9706-6767;; excellent espresso and pastries.
Chateau de la Chevre d’Or – Rue du Barri (Eze); 011-33-4-9210-6666;; on cliff with spectacular views; 2 star restaurant.
Mantel – 22 Rue St. Antoine (Cannes); 011-33-4-9339-1310;; small, outdoor seating.
Le Maschou – 15 Rue St. Antoine (Cannes); 011-33-4-9339-6221; simpler than Mantel.
La Rotisserie – Avenue des Templiers (at Chateau St.-Martin & Spa); 011-33-4-9293-5802;; open plan.
Le St.-Martin – Avenue des Templiers (at Chateau St.-Martin & Spa); 011-33-4-9293-5802;; 2 Michelin stars.
Le Table du Chef – 5 Rue Jean Daumas; 011-33-4-9368-2740; low-key little bistro; friendly welcome, quality traditional cuisine, and in fixed menu (4 courses) in evening.
Chez Tetou – Avenue des Freres Roustan (Golfe-Juan); 011-33-4-9363-7116; great eating place of all ‘40’s and ‘50’s famous people. Local Domaine Ott rose goes with everything. Famous for bouillabaise, rouille de mer, beignets, etc.
3.14 La Plage – 5 Rue Francois Einesy (Cannes); 011-33-4-9299-7200;; although hotel is bit flashy, beach club offshoot is popular for lunch.
Villa Archange – Rue Notre Dame des Anges (in Le Cannet); 011-33-4-9218-1828; coolest place for under-chestnut-tree dining; 18th Century country house in woodsy park; traditional southern French cooking.
Zplage Beach Restaurant – 73 La Croisette (at Hotel Martinez); 011-33-04-9298-7422;; exclusive beachclub & restaurant.

Chateau St.-Martin & Spa – Avenue des Templiers; 011-33-4-9293-5802;; La Prairie products.
HO2 Thermes Marins – 1 Boulevard Jean Hibert (at 1835 White Palm Hotel); 011-33-4-9299-5010;; spa.

Cine-Folie – 14 Rue des Freres Pradignac (Cannes); 011-33-4-9339-2299; film bookshop with over 60 years of Cannes film festival posters.
Venulys – 6 Rue Buttura; 011-33-4-9368-5245;; perfumes.

Château de l’Horizon – off Route de Cannes/D6007 (Vallauris, on Golfe-Juan, wedged between Route du Bord de Mer (D 6098) & coast);âteau_de_l%27Horizon; in 1932, Maxine Elliott (1868–40) built directly on Golfe-Juan coast imposing villa, which magazine Punch later described as “white palace set on water”; actress spent $350K for structure anchored on rocks with private port; Elliott then received in her new summer residence celebrities: Lloyd George, Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Winston Churchill & Noël Coward; Elsa Maxwell claimed – albeit without providing sources – that on eve of WWII, villa served as meeting place for Anthony Eden and French & Italian homologues; Elliott died in 1940; after WWII, villa rented for time by Rosita Winston, wife of American billionaire, whose guests included Greta Garbo, Jack L. Warner & Maurice Chevalier (her husband maintained, however, not to have “faintest idea who they are or how they got invited. Trouble is that they all know each other so damn well.”; in 1948, villa was purchased by Prince Ali Khan; international café society, as well as “aristocracy of French Riviera,” continued to make villa center of attention for press; on May 27, 1947, prince married Rita Hayworth at Vallauris town hall; in 1979, future Saudi King Fahd, acquired villa; Saudi royal family kept adding new buildings to original one, changing thoroughly its appearance; Barry Dierks, architect, utilized topography to design long building of which nearly all of rooms open to sea & horizon, hence name.
Musee Bonnard – 16 Boulevard Sadi Carnot (Le Cannet); 011-33-4-9394-0606;
Musee de la Castre – Le Suquet; 011-33-04-9338-5526;; in medieval castle once occupied by Lérins monks; displays primitive Mediterranean antiquities & art, landscape painting collections, and musical instruments; square tower has exceptional 360° panoramic view.
Musee National Picasso Vallauris – Place de la Liberation; 011-33-49-364-7183;; includes War and Peace memorial (striking mural painted in tunnel-like atmosphere).

Monday, October 22, 2012


Kadosh – 6 Shlomzion HaMalka Street (Center); 011-972-02-625-4210;; bakery and café.
Kaffee Haus – 37 Via Dolorosa (Old City, at Austrian Hospice); 011-972-02-626-5800;; Viennese-style coffees and pastries.

Adom – 4 David Remez (Old City, First Station); 011-972-02-624-6242;; moderately priced; great bar with good house wine (served by glass at reasonable price); after 10 pm, when Adom becomes bar and gathering point, special menu of half-courses and tapas.
Bar Putin – 19 Jaffo Street (Russian Compound, near Jaffa Gate to Old City); 011-972-5-2431-9695; pays quirky homage to Putin.
Barood – 31 Jaffa Road (New City, through Jerusalem Courtyard, in Feingold House; 011-972-02-625-9081;; open on Sabbath; authentic, cozy little place with real charm and spirit; party atmosphere starts late Friday afternoons and Saturday nights; sometimes live music; wide range alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks; pleasant Jerusalem Courtyard.
Lion’s Den – 5 Yoel Salomon Street (Center, Mamilla); 011-972-52-870-9993;; sports bar that airs American professional sports game on flat screen televisions.
Mona – 12 Shmuel HaNagid Street (Center); 011-972-02-622-2283;; great bar.
Shoshana – 7 Yoel Moshe Salomon Street (New City); 011-972-77-559-0201; great bar.
Sira – 4 Ben Sira Street (New City); 011-972-02-623-4366;
Uganda – 4 Aristobolus Street; 011-972-02-623-6087;

American Colony Hotel – 1 Louis Vincent Street (near Old City, on seam between Palestinian East Jerusalem and Israeli West Jerusalem, at Nablus Road); 011-972-02-627-9777;; converted Pasha’s palace, 10-minute walk from Old City; accommodations in 3 buildings set among gardens; some new loft suites have private balconies and city views.
Austrian Hospice – 37 Via Dolorosa (Old City); 011-972-02-626-5800;; affordable with lovely atmosphere.
David Citadel Hotel – 7 King David Street (Center); 011-972-02-621-1111;; glass-domed lobby of 1998 limestone building facing David Citadel; kosher sushi.
Harmony Hotel – 6 Yoel Moshe Salomon Street (New City); 011-972-02-621-9999;; beautiful, well-run boutique.
Inbal Jerusalem – 3 Jabotinsky Street (Talbiya, at Liberty Bell Park); 011-972-02-675-6666;; perfect-scoring location in former olive grove in Talbieh district; near German Colony.
King David Jerusalem Hotel – 23 King David Street (Center); 011-972-02-620-8888;; stately, 6-story limestone landmark; kingsize beds.
Lutheran Guest House – St. Mark’s Road (Old City); 011-972-02-626-6888;; most beautiful, atmospheric place to stay in Old City (and perhaps in all Jerusalem); well-run guesthouse occupies restored stone building series with terraced gardens overlooking main bazaar; 4-minute walk from Jaffa Gate; secluded oasis that has breathtaking Dome of Rock views; simply furnished but comfortable; most bathrooms have showers only; call for directions before arrival and arrange baggage porter to meet you.
Mamilla Hotel – 11 King Solomon Street (Center); 011-972-02-548-2200;; beautiful design.
Market Courtyard – 30 HaCarmel (across from Mahane Yehuda); 011-972-050-295-3234;; not hotel, not fancy, no breakfast, smallish rooms & bathrooms, but charming, renovated, old Jerusalem building; little off-beaten-track and probably not good for 1st time visitor.

Abu Taher – 16 Al-Lahamin Market (Old City); 011-972-02-627-7893; closes at 3 pm; hummus, etc.
Adom – 31 Jaffa Road (New City, through Jerusalem Courtyard, in Feingold House); 011-972-02-624-6242;; moderately priced; menu ranges from exquisite to hearty; Jerusalem stone dining rooms are atmospheric and spacious, service friendly, and music carefully chosen; dinner menu varies daily.
Angelica – 7 Shatz (Center, in Montefiore Hotel); 011-972-02-623-0056;; kosher; gnocchi in tomato-tofu sauce.
Arcadia – 10 Simtat Agripass (Givat Ram, on Agripass Alley, in lane between 63 Jaffa Road & 10 Agrippa Street, 2 blocks west of King George Avenue); 011-972-2-624-9138;; considered city’s finest restaurant; little hideaway (reached through little 19th Century pedestrian lane); minimalist decor and dining garden; Chef Ezra Kedem is inventive with food but not flashy; French/Mediterranean menu constantly changes and done with light touch; appetizers include oven-roasted shrimp with citrus sauce and basil flowers, saffron-scented seafood soup, or herbed lamb ravioli on beet-root salad; for main courses, always slow-cooked baby lamb dish; sometimes, pan-sautéed duck livers on warm lentil salad; carefully and simply prepared seafood; fixed-price, 2-course meals worthwhile; be advised that pigeons can make dining under trees in garden fraught with danger.
Azura – 8 Ha’Eshkol Street (Nachlaot, at Machane Yehuda market); 011-972-02-623-5204; legendary budget restaurant, open for over 25 years; Iraqi, Jewish, Kurdish, Levantine, and Turkish dishes, kept warm in huge pans placed on kerosene stoves; try large meatballs in tomato sauce, Sephardi chicken stew, Kubbeh soup (ground meat and semolina dumplings in lemony broth), and mejadra (lentils, onions, rice, and spices); finding place to sit and eat not easy.
Bardak – 38 Keren Hayesod; 011-972-02-587-7795;; beer and pizza.
Barood – 31 Jaffa Road (New City, through Jerusalem Courtyard, in Feingold House); 011-972-02-625-9081;; open on Sabbath; authentic, cozy little place with real charm and spirit; always-changing daily menu of home-style choices, but Balkan/Sephardic home-style dishes are most interesting.
Canela – 8 Shlomzion HaMalka Street (Center); 011-972-02-622-2293;; kosher; excellent middle eastern food.
Chakra – 41 King George Street (Yemin Moshe); 011-972-02-625-2733;; sleek, upper-moderate-priced restaurant; inventive and sophisticated; chef-owner Ilan Garousi offers standard menu, as well as 12 nightly, main-course specials; try Bokaharian soup made with chickpeas, lamb-meat dumplings, and sweet-and-sour dried berries or shrimps on grilled figs or lighter-than-air coriander fish kabobs; ambiance is informal but elegant.
Eucalyptus – 14 Hativat Yerushalaim Street (Hutzot Hayotzer Artists’ Colony, near Jaffa Gate to Old City); 011-972-02-624-4331;; kosher; chef/owner Moshe Basson famous throughout Israel and beyond as “food archaeologist” who reconstructs Jerusalem’s many cultures’ and traditions’ homestyle dishes; discounts at lunch.
Ima – 189 Agrippas Street (New City); 011-972-02-538-5668;; Israeli dumplings.
La Guta – 34 Beit Lehem (Baka Quarter); 011-972-02-623-2322; Kosher; mod-Mediterranean makeover of what was once Jerusalem’s stodgiest venues.
Kadosh – 6 Shlomzion HaMalka Street (Center); 011-972-02-625-4210;; bakery and café.
Karma – 74 Ein Karem (Ein Kerem); 011-972-02-643-6643;; very nice and worth visit.
Lina Restaurant – Shchunat Hanotzrim Street (Givat Ram, Christian Quarter); 011-972-02-627-7230;; noted for hummus; Middle Eastern fare.
Little Jerusalem Cafe – 9 HaRav Kuk Street (Givat Ram, near Zion Square, at Ticho House); 011-972-02-624-4186;; kosher and vegetarian food in garden setting at 19th Century House; large hidden oasis, with gardens and terrace cafe set right in downtown West Jerusalem’s center; especially wonderful for outdoor dining in summer; menu features crepes; many come just for desserts; on Saturday evenings, Ticho House offers “Viennese Night,” with wonderful string quartet playing waltzes, and all-you-can-eat buffet (blintzes and Viennese pastries); on Tuesday evenings, live jazz and, in addition to regular menu, cheese-and-wine buffet that includes salad and soup.
Machneyuda – 10 Beit Ya’akov Street (Givat Ram, in Mahane Yehuda market); 011-972-02-533-3442;; Mediterranean; managed & owned by 3 Jerusalem chefs with impressive resumes (Yossi Elad, Asaf Granit, & Uri Navon); menu on huge board daily & based on select ingredients from nearby market stands, in 4 price categories (2 fish & 2 meat dishes and vegetarian dishes in each category); interior on 2 levels, providing dynamic, theatrical view over kitchen and joyous dining experience; small bar looks over kitchen; incredible wine bar with 3 meshuggener chefs who work in open kitchen all at once, creating spectacular contemporary Israeli dishes like shakshuka (eggs baked in tomato sauce) with foie gras.
Mantra Restaurant & Wine Bar – 14 Rivlin Street (Feingold Yard); 011-972-02-624-4994;; in 120 year-old building.
Masaryk – 31 Emek Refaim Street (German Colony); 011-972-02-563-6418;; kosher Italian; beloved.
Café Mizrachi – 12 Shezif Street (Mahane Yehuda); 011-972-02-624-2105;‎; informal restaurant in market heart; order chopped salad with feta, peppers, onions, and olives and side of house-made hummus.
Mona – 12 Shmuel HaNagid Street (Center); 011-972-02-622-2283;; modern seasonal cooking; cross Artists’ House austere stone hall to get here; another world inside: flagstone floors, open fire in winter, yesteryear artifacts, quirky wall decorations.
Moshiko Felafel – 5 Ben-Yehuda Street (New City); 011-972-50-535-6861;
Pasha’s – Shim’on Ha’tsadik (East Jerusalem); 011-972-02-582-5162;; Palestinian classics are exemplary (baba ghanouj & fattoush).
Pinati – 13 King George Street (Old City); 011-972-02-625-4540;; middle eastern; hummus.
Rachmo – 5 Ha’Eshkol Street (Nachlaot, at Machane Yehuda market); 011-972-02-623-4595;; pre-state institution; serves Iraqi-Jewish-Kurdish soul food since 1930s; in somewhat oddly-shaped corner building, little bit scuffed about edges, dingy; prominent Sephardi rabbi portraits line walls; take tray and wait in line; when get to kitchen window, choose from standard selection (hummus, kubeh soup (and plenty of other soups), goulash, schnitzel, stuffed peppers and grape leaves, steak, etc.; cheap.
Scala – 7 King David Street (Center, at David Citadel Hotel); 011-972-02-621-2030;; uneven.
Abu Shukri – Al Wad Road (Muslim Quarter, at Via Dolorosa, near Damascas Gate); 011-972-02-627-1538;; among city’s best and most affordable restaurants; famous for hummus that is so spectacular that, in more tranquil times, people in Jordan used to send out for it in insulated ice chests and Israelis waited for tables on Saturday afternoons in long lines; this is BYO-everything restaurant, with broken and cracked tables; try hummus with roasted pine nuts and be sure to ask for pita bread served hot (included in price); fresh and spicy felafel; excellent grilled kabobs, shwarma, and kubbe (cracked-wheat, meat-stuffed dumplings); mint tea is good beverage choice.
Sima’s – 82 Agrippas Street (in Mahane Yehuda Market); old stand-by; open late; local legend for Jerusalem Mixed Grill, which comes with french fries, salad, bread & condiments if ordered as platter; often mobbed, so takeout, mixed-grill pita sandwich is good option.
Te’Enim – 12 Emile Botta Street (Old City); 011-972-02-624-0090;; name means “figs”; overlooks Tower of David and Old City ramparts; vegetarian & wide range fish platters; seasonal specials; homemade desserts.

Akasha Well-Being Center – 11 King Solomon Street (Center, at Mamilla Hotel); 011-972-02-548-2222;; beautiful design.
David’s Tours of Israel – Tel Aviv; 011-972-052-458-9444;; archaeologist; fluent in English and Russian; provides sensitive, tailored tours throughout Israel, with special depth of knowledge re Israel’s ancient history.
Yisca Harani – 23 Brodetzki Street (Tel-Aviv); 011-972-052-327-8713;; consultant, lecturer & researcher regarding Christian history in Israel; offers tours, as does her husband; both highly recommended.

Elia Photo Service – 14 Al-Khanka Street (Old City, Christian Quarter); 011-972-02-628-2074;; rare photographs from early Israel and Palestine.
Iwo’s Delicatessen – 7 Shammai Street; 011-972-02-622-2513;; great delicatessen.

al-Aqsa Mosque & Dome of Rock – Temple Mount (Old City, access between Western Wall and Dung Gate); 011-972-02/628-3292 or 011-972-02-628-3313;; 35 acres; known to Muslims as Haram esh-Sharif (“Noble Sanctuary”); al-Aqsa Mosque is at southern end, immediately as you enter area from Western Wall plaza (only gate for non-Muslims); 3rd in holiness for Muslims everywhere.
Chords Bridge – West Jerusalem (between Kiryat Moshe area and Central Bus Station City);; also called “Bridge of Strings”; Calatrava design; evokes harp; automobile, foot, and rail traffic.
Church of Holy Sepulchre – Suq Khan e-Zeit and Christian Quarter Road (Old City); 011-972-02-627-3314;
German Colony – southern Jerusalem; also called Hamoshava Hagermanit and/or Moshava; historic, upscale neighborhood known for cafes and restaurants; walking tour: from HaPaamon Garden choose right fork (Bethlehem Street, Derech Beit Lehem); pass near Khan Theatre (2 David Remez Square) and continue about 350' to stop at Train Station (where city’s 1st train arrived), then return to Khan; continue walking few more meters until arrive at junction, where turn right to arrive at St. Andrew’s Church (1 David Remez Street), built as memorial to Scottish soldiers in British army who fell during WWI, with cornerstone laid by General Allenby (commander over Israel’s conquest in WWI from Ottomans) and sepulchers from 1st Temple Period found beneath church, then return to junction and turn left, onto Emek Refaim Street; sights include Gemeindehaus (communal hall located at 1 Emek Refaim Street: Templar movement, as founded in South Germany during 19th Century’s 1st half by Christoph Hoffmann, required Christian Holy Land presence, this building, founded in 1882, served for Sunday prayers and sermons, but community members did not call it “church,” and thus it hosted performances and meetings, with architecture unlike that of any conventional church), School (4-5 Emek Refaim Street), Matthaus Frank House (6 Emek Refaim Street, also called “Miller House”), Templar Pub (7 Emek Refaim Street), Pension Schmidt (8 Emek Refaim Street), Zendler House (9 Emek Refaim Street, note at gable end, lion figurine, Zendler Family’s pharmacy symbol), Friedrich Eberle House (10 Emek Refaim Street, once among colony’s most elegant houses); now, turn left onto Lloyd George Street, where 1st stops are Lev Smadar Theater (formerly Orient Cinema, 4 Lloyd George Street, designed by Bauerle’s son), and Bauerle House (6 Lloyd George Street, Gottlieb Bauerle’s home, he being 2nd generation Templar and his house built during British Mandate); next are Fast House (8-10 Lloyd George Street), and Borromean Sisters Convent (12 Lloyd George Street, behind low wall in front you is spacious compound that includes church, elderly home, and school belonging to German-Catholic Borromean Sisters’ order, which order named after Charles Borromeo who established, during this nursing order during 16th Century plague epidemic); next, return to Emek Refaim Street, where see Imberger House (at 16 Emek Refaim Street) and Templar Cemetery (39 Emek Refaim Street, where afore-mentioned Christoph Hoffmann buried); short walk back to HaPaamon Garden; one other sight worth seeing is Shalom Hartman Institute (at 11 Gedalyahu Alon Street).
City of David – Shiloach Village; 011-972-02-626-2341;; oldest settled Jerusalem neighborhood; walled city in Bronze Age; archaeological park.
Good Samaritan Museum of Mosaics – Route 1 (Maaleh Adumim, halfway between Jericho & Jerusalem); 011-972-02-633–8230;; about 2K years ago, thieves ambushed traveler on Jericho-Jerusalem road; passing Samaritan was only person to help him, taking him to nearby inn (Luke 10); museum in restored Ottoman inn on this route; extensive, intricate mosaic collection; ask to see silent film about parable dating from 1920s, filmed on same arid hills that stretch for miles from museum; if energetic, drive over bridge that crosses highway and climb dirt track to hilltop; scanty, small 12th Century Crusader fort ruins.
Hadassah Medical Center – Kiryat Hadassah (Ein Karem, in Abbell Synagogue); 011-972-2-677-7111;; go to see Chagall windows; Bible is primary inspiration, particularly Jacob’s & Moses’ blessings; each window dominated by specific color & contains blessing quotation; Chagall & assistant, Charles Marq, worked on project for 2 years, during which time Marq developed special process for applying color to glass, allowing Chagall to use as many as 3 colors on single pane, rather than being confined to traditional technique of separating each colored pane by lead strip.
Hezekiah’s Tunnel – Hashiloah Road (City of David, Kidron Valley); 011-972-02-626-2341;; wade through dark, 2.7K year-old tunnel with gushing water; Indiana Jones experience; built about 701 BCE as aqueduct leading from Gihon Spring to Siloam Pool; bring flashlight.
Hurva Synagogue – Hurva Square (Old City, Jewish Quarter); 011-972-02-626-5900, xtn 102 (for guided tours);; recently renovated.
Israel Museum – 10 Derekh Ruppin Street (Givat Ram, on Museum Plaza); 011-972-02-670-8811;; Israel’s largest cultural museum; in addition to Dead Sea Scrolls, large model of Jerusalem during Second Temple Period; 3-4 reconstructed synagogues.
Jerusalem Archaeological Park – Dung Gate (Western Wall); 011-972-02-627-7962 or 011-972-02-627-7550;; often referred to as Southern & Western Wall Excavations, or Ophel; most dramatic and monumental finds are from Herodian period (late 1st Century BCE); can see, for example, square-cut building stones from original Herodian Temple wall, dramatically evidencing 70 CE Roman destruction; also, modern spiral staircase descends below present ground level to partially reconstructed, Byzantine dwelling labyrinth, mosaics and all; from here can reemerge outside present city walls; Davidson Visitors Center (on your right as you enter site) offers visual aids, some artifacts & 2 interesting videos (which continuously alternate between English and Hebrew).
Lutheran Church of Redeemer – 24 Muristan Road (Old City, northeast corner Christian Corner & Muristan); 011-972-02-627-6111;; among its most interesting features is on medieval northern gate’s original sculpture; door decorated with Zodiac signs and well-worn month symbols (January symbol at bottom left and at top center are sun (half-figure with disc above his head) and moon (female with crescent) beween June and July, August symbol, thresher, is in best shape; October is man with cask); church houses 4 Lutheran congregations speaking 4 different languages: Arabic, German, English, and Danish; 12th Century cloisters, with 2 gallery tiers, and refectory are on south side; climb 177 steps up bell tower, tallest in vicinity, for fine view over Holy Sepulchre Church and as far as Olives and Zion Mounts.
Mahane Yehuda Market – bounded in part by Agrippas Street & Jaffa Road;; bounded by Jaffa Road to north, Agrippas Street to south, Beit Yaakov Street to west, and Kiach Street to east; also called Shuk.
Mount Herzl Military Cemetery – 1 Herzl Boulevard (Mount Herzl); 011-972-02-632-1525; graves of Israeli Prime Ministers (Meir, Rabin, etc.), as well as soldiers who fell defending Jerusalem in 1948 War; more like park.
Mount of Olives – Old City; world-famous Jewish cemetery (Menachem Begin buried here) on southern and western slopes; Russian Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene, Garden of Gethsemane, and other sacred places; view from Mount’s Seven Arches Hotel encompasses Old City walls, detailed mosque domes, church towers, modern buildings, and Judaean Desert’s barren hills.
Museum on Seam – 4 Chel Handasa Street (bordering Mea Shearim & Old City); 011-972-02-628-1278;; old Turkish-era mansion, later fortress, still later Israeli command post during 1948 War of Independence (until 1967); now museum intended to establish coexistence, dialogue, and understanding between Israelis and Palestinians, using art exhibits, lectures, and state-of-art media displays.
Old City – 4 uneven quarters in City Center: Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim;; .35 sq mi) walled area; until 1860, when Mishkenot Sha’ananim neighborhood established, this area constituted city’s entirety; following 1948 Arab-Israeli War, Jordan occupied Old City, evicting Jewish residents; during Six Day War in 1967 (which saw hand-to-hand fighting on Temple Mount), Israel reunified Old City alongside East Jerusalem’s remainder; UNESCO World Heritage Site List in 1981; in 2010, Jerusalem’s oldest writing fragment found outside Old City’s walls; Western Wall, Church of Holy Sepulcher, and Temple Mount with (Dome of Rock); walk stations of cross; stroll souks in narrow cobble-stoned alleys.
Ramban Synagogue – Amaziah 4th Street, Bet El and Misherot Hakehuna (Old City, at HaYehudim Street & main square corner); 011-972-52-862-2321;; oldest active Jerusalem synagogue.
Ramparts Walk – Jaffa Gate (Old City); 011-972-02-627-7550;; ancient Jerusalem stone catwalk atop Old City walls; walk, at least, from Tower of David to Jewish Quarter, and from Damascus to Jaffa Gates; offers unique perspective; fee.
Russian Library – 88 Agrippas Street; 011-972-02-537-5723; many of 100K books donated by immigrants: classics by Tolstoy, Communist Party records from 1930s, stories translated to Russian from Yiddish, volumes of Russian Jewish newspapers, and mementos.
St. Stephen’s Monastery (École Biblique) – 6 Nablus Road; 011-972-02-626-4468;; located along ancient road to Damascus, approximately .25 mile outside Old City walls; modern Dominican monastery and French School for Biblical Archaeology; modern complex built on former Byzantine monastic compound constructed by Empress Eudocia in 438 CE; upon entering compound, visitor immediately struck by quiet; 1st Christian martyr Stephen buried here.
Supreme Court of Israel – Sha’arei Mishpat Street; 011-972-02-675-9612;; eclectic, postmodern complex constructed of local limestone; incorporates numerous Jewish historical elements (courtrooms replicate Talmudic synagogues and formal entrance area Pyramid is 2nd Temple architectural representation); guided tours in English.
Ticho House – 9 HaRav Kuk Street (Givat Ram, near Zion Square); 011-972-02-624-4186;; among 1st houses built outside Old City walls; oasis worth making special trip.
Tisch Family Zoological Gardens (Jerusalem Biblical Zoo) – Manahat (Malcha); 011-972-02-675-0111;; Old Testament-themed zoo showcasing near-extinct and endangered species native to region.
Tower of David Museum – Jaffa Gate (Old City); 011-972-02-626-5333;; restored citadel housing extensive museum; traces 4K years city history.
Vertigo Dance Company – 11 Bezalel Street (Gerared Behar Center); 011-972-02-624-4176;; Jerusalem-based dance company for over 20 years; choreographer-founder Noa Wertheim.
Western Wall Tunnels – 2 HaOmer Street (Old City); 011-972-02-627-1333;; located under Old City (open-air portion approximately 200' l, majority underground); allows access to additional 1.6' of wall.
Wohl Archaeology Museum – 1 HaKaraim Street (Old City); 011-972-02-628-3448;; Jewish Quarter's most visually interesting site: sumptuous mansions from late Second Temple period, preserved in basement of modern Jewish seminary; geometrically-patterned mosaic floors, still-vibrant frescoes, and costly ceramics & glassware; several small stone cisterns identified as private mikvehs (Jewish ritual baths); holograms depict their use; large stone water jars just like those described in New Testament (John 2, Cana wedding); rare stone tables resemble dining-room furniture depicted in Roman stone reliefs found in Europe.
Yad Vashem Holocaust History Museum – Ein Kerem; 011-972-02-644-3600;; swooping triangular tube jutting nearly 600' through Mount of Remembrance, capped by 30' conical structure covered with pictures of 600 Holocaust victims.

Thursday, September 27, 2012


Sights & Sites
Gandzasar Monastery – Vank;; Gandzasar means “treasure” hilltop or mountain in Armenian; monastery holds relics believed to belong to St. John “Baptist” and St. Zechariah (his father); catholicoi residence for Aghvank Catholicosate (Armenian Apostolic Church) from about 1400-1816; 1st mentioned in 10th Century; construction began in 1216, under Armenian Khachen Prince Hasan-Jalal Dawla’s patronage; completed 1238; dome’s drum has exquisite bas-reliefs depict Crucifixion, Adam and Eve, and 2 ministers holding church model above their heads (as offering to God); among Armenian architecture’s masterpieces.

Sights & Sites
Ghazanchetsots Cathedral – Ghazanchetsots Street;; built between 1868-1887; white limestone facade, architect Simon Ter-Hakobyan intending it resemble Etchmiadzin Cathedral; in front of west entrance, freestanding 3-story bell tower, constructed in 1858; in 1998 re-consecrated as church, and now serves as Armenian Apostolic Church’s Diocese of Artsakh’s headquarters and main cathedral.

Sos (includes Martuni)
Sights & Sites
Amaras Monastery – Martuni;; among world’s oldest Christian sites; St. Gregory “Illuminator” left Armenia for Aghvank to found Amaras Monastery at 4th Century’s start; monastery plundered in 14th Century by Mongols (1387, during Tamerlane’s invasion) and demolished again in 16th Century; in 19th Century, monastery served as Russian imperial troops’ frontier fortress; Armenian Apostolic Church reclaimed monastery in 1848 and still survives as 3-nave basilica constructed from bright white stone.

YEREVAN (includes Artashat, Echmiadzin, Karahunj, Kotayk & Sisian)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Club – 40 Tumanyan Street; 011-374-10-531-361;; tea room, when not too smoky, great place to sit on bean bag and chat.
Golden Tulip Hotel Yerevan – 14 Abovian; 011-374-10-591-600;
Hotel Latar – 58 5th Street (Silikyan District); 011-374-10-380-711;
Tufenkian Avan Villa Yerevan – 16 13th Street; 011-374-10-655-877;
Club – 40 Tumanyan Street; 011-374-10-531-361;; Western Armenian dishes, including manti, su borek, and midia dolma; underground space very hip; thin crust pizzas are very filling.
Dolmama – 10 Pushkin Street; 011-374-810-561-354;; fusion Armenian-World cuisine; outdoor seating is experience of old courtyards that filled central Yerevan in past.
Rossini – 14 Abovian (at Golden Tulip Hotel Yerevan); 011-374-10-591-608;; Armenian-European.
Dalan Gallery – 12 Abovyan Street (Abovyan); 011-374-553-307;; contemporary art.
Sights & Sites
Armenian Center for Contemporary Experimental Art – 1/3 Pavstos Biuzand Boulevard; 011-374-10-568-225;; founded in 1992 by Sonia Balassanian (New York-based artist and poet) just after Soviet Union’s collapse and Newly Independent State (NIS) of Republic of Armenia’s creation; organization co-founded by Edward Balassanian, architect and urban planner; mission is Armenian contemporary art’s discovery, introduction, and promotion.
Echmiadzin Cathedral & Museum – Komitas Square (Echmiadzin); 011-374-10-517-110;; founded in 303 by St. Gregory Illuminator (Lousavoritch); built on pre-Christian temple foundations in Vagharshapat (former name).
Geghard Monastery – Geghard Monastery Road (Kotayk, near Goght); contains numerous churches and tombs, most cut into rock, set into landscape of great natural beauty, surrounded by towering cliffs at Azat Valley entrance.
Khor Virap Monastery – near Artashat;; notable pilgrimage site; chapel initially built in 642 at this site; over centuries, repeatedly rebuilt; Armenia’s most visited pilgrimage site.
Modern Art Museum – 7 Mesrop Mashtots Poghota; 011-374-10-535-359;; works from 1970s on.
Museum of Sergei Parajanov – Dzoragiugh Ethnographic Center, Boulevards 15 & 16; 011-374-10-538-473;; museum dedicated to memory Georgian-born, Armenian film director and artist; nearly all his film projects and plans from 1965-1973 banned, closed, and/or scrapped by Soviet film administration, both local (in Kiev and Yerevan) and federal (infamous Goskino), almost without discussion until finally arrested in late 1973 on briber, homosexuality, and rape charges; imprisoned until 1977; even after his release (arrested for 3rd and last time in 1982), persona non grata in Soviet cinema; in mid-1980s, when political climate started to relax, resumed directing.
State Theater of Young Spectator – 3 Moskovian Street; 011-374-10-563-040.
Zorats Karer – Bagratuniats Street (Karahunj, Syunik District, near Sisian);; among world’s most ancient megalithic construction.

Wednesday, September 26, 2012


Sights & Sites
Theodore Roosevelt National Park – 315 2nd Avenue (headquarters); 701-623-4730;; (1) South Unit entrance is in Medora, accessible via Interstate 94 Exits 24-27 in North Dakota, (2) Painted Canyon Visitor Center is 7 miles east of Medora on I-94 at Exit 32, North Unit is along US Highway 85, approximately 14 miles south of Watford City & 50 miles north of Belfield (I-94 travelers can access US Highway 85 at Exit 42 in Belfield), & (4) Elkhorn Ranch Unit is 35 miles north of Medora (access is via gravel roads, Elkhorn Ranch Guide & Map available online); 701-623-4730;; 3 geographically separated badland areas (North Unit, South Unit & Elkhorn Ranch Unit) in western North Dakota; covers 110 square miles; Little Missouri River flows through all 3 units; among most popular attractions is wildlife viewing, including bison, feral horses, elk, bighorn sheep, white-tailed deer and mule deer, prairie dogs, and at least 186 species of birds including golden eagles, sharp-tailed grouse, and wild turkeys.

Sights & Sites
Fargo Theatre – 314 Broadway; 701-239-8385;; restored, Art Deco masterpiece that still shows movies.

Sights & Sites
Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site – 564 County Road 37; 701-745-3300;; protects remains of 3 large Hidatsa villages – Awatixa Xi'e Village, Awatixa Village, and Hidatsa Village.

Fort Yates
Sights & Sites
Burial Site of Sitting Bull – Sitting Bull Avenue;; site marks original burial ground of Hunkpapa Sioux leader Sitting bull, killed 15 December 1890; remains moved in 1950s to Mobridge, South Dakota.

Sights & Sites
Scandinavian Heritage Center – 1020 South Broadway Street; 701-852-9161;; make sure to see Gol Stave Church Museum, full-size Gol Stave Church replica (original built in 1250 and moved from Gol, Hallingdal, Norway, to Folk Museum in Bygdoy Park in Oslo, Norway, about 100 years ago); noted wood carvers Philip Odden and Elsa Bigton (Barronet, Wisconsin) completed intricately-carved front and side doors and portals; inside corner posts accentuated, heavier, and more richly decorated than other structural elements.

Sunday, September 16, 2012


(does not include Barcelona)

La Alianca – 3 Calle Jacint Verdaguer; 011-34-972-420-156;

La Pleta Hotel & Spa – Centra Baqueira a Beret (3.5 hour drive from Barcelona, in Aran Valley); 011-34-973-645-550;; ski-lodge style near 5th Century Romanesque church hamlet; wraparound deck.

Sights & Sites
Marimurtra Botanical Garden – 9 Passeig de Carles Faust (Girona); 011-34-972-330-826;; 4 hectare at top of very steep hill, above port at north end of Blanes beach; views are breathtaking; among oldest botanical gardens in Europe, established in early 20th Century by German botanist; contains plants from all over world, divided into 3 main sections (tropical, temperate & Mediterranean).

Hotel Rocamar – Dr. Bartomeus; 011-34-978-258-150;; don’t be thrown off by 3 star rating; excellent choice.

Can Jubany – Carretera de Sant Hilari, km. 15; 011-34-938-891-023;; outside walled garden; raises own ingredients.

Sights & Sites
Xavier Corbero House – 57 Montserrat; 011-34-93-371-7137;; Gaudi-like structure; can try to get appointment but this is not open to public.

Sights & Sights
Cap de Creus Natural Park – 10 miles east of Roses;; 190 square kms extraordinary landscape value; wind-beaten dry, rocky region, with almost no trees, in contrast with seaside rich in minuscule creeks of deep blue sea; mountains are Pyrenees’ eastern foothills (natural border between France and Spain); region frequently swept by awful north wind tramontana (beyond mountains), which has caused many naval disasters; Sant Pere de Rodes stands out at 500 m altitude, with Cap and Pyrenees views; 11th Century monastery dating from about 750; great diving at Punta d’Els Farallons (grouper, octopus and spiny lobster).
Dali Theatre-Museum – 5 Gala Salvador-Dali; 011-34-97-267-7500;; make sure to look at Lincoln picture through camera – amazing.

GIRONA (Albons, Madremanya, Mont-ras, Palafrugell & Torrent)
Hotel Albons – Crta La Bisbal a Figueres Km. 18 (Albons); 011-34-972-788-658;; 29 rooms and 3 suites, as well as large garden and swimming pool.
Hotel Ciutat de Girona – 2 Calle Nord; 011-34-972-483-038;
La Placa – 17 Calle Sant Esteve (Madremanya); 011-34-972-490-487;; located in village, behind sunflower field; widely renowned for restaurant; building made of light brown stone dating back to Romans; integrates so well with village’s architecture that can’t tell where hotel starts or ends; apartments are well-decorated, each containing chimney, small lights, and candles; high quality furniture as well as very well equipped kitchen and terrace; rooms are just as attractive and comfortable; surrounding village is charming.
Mas de Torrent – Afores de Torrent (Torrent); 011-34-972-303-292;; converted 18th Century farmhouse; stunningly smart luxury hotel to rival any in Spain; expansive rooms in main farmhouse masterfully decorated in classic style, all different yet all furnished with well-chosen antiques and rugs; ceiling beams, hardwood floors, and arched doorways lend traditional flavor alongside modern luxuries like spacious black stone bathrooms with deep soaking tubs; outside farmhouse are bungalows, less rich with palpable history yet easily as luxurious, and amid gardens, are suites with private terraces and pools; restaurant is among best in Catalonia, serving seasonal seafood and produce in informal setting.

– 2 Calle Nord (in Hotel Ciutat de Girona); 011-34-972-483-038;
Restaurante Celler de Can Roca
– 40 Carretera Taiala (mile and half outside old town); 011-34-972-222-157;; Catalan; 2 Michelin stars.
Draps Petit Restaurant – 8 Calle Cort Reial; 011-34-972-080-430; lobster ravioli.

Sights & Sites
Banys Arabs (in Barri Vell) – 4-5 Del Sac; Arab baths.
Barri Vell – old town.
El Poblado – Mont-ras (village center); basically, garden tour; once through village art, garden walk begins; take Camino del Castillo.
Girona Cathedral – Plaza de la Catedral; medieval.
Museum of Jewish History – 8 Calle Forca; Girona has 1 of 3 medieval mikvah in Europe.
La Rambla – cobblestone street with cafes and shops.

Hotel El Far – Platja de Llafranc s/n; 011-34-972-301-639 or 011-34-972-302-000;; on former lighthouse site; beautiful, 360° views; excellent restaurant.

OLOT (Banyoles, Canya, Sanlucar La Mayor & Torrico)
El Bulli Hotel Hacienda Benazuza – Calle Virgen de las Nieves (Sanlucar La Mayor, outside Seville); 011-34-955-703-344;; sprawling, white-washed country estate dating back to 11th Century; 44 rooms.
Ca l’Arpa – 5 Passeig Industria (Banyoles); 011-34-972-572-353;; owned by former Michelin-starred chef and wife; 8 rooms.
Les Cols Pavellones – Mas les Cols, Cebtra de la Canya (Canya); 011-34-972-269-209;; 5 rooms in 13th Century farmhouse (mas); otherworldly experience; after checking in, escorted to “transparent glass-and-black-steel pavilion”; rooms are pure crystal cubes: aside from minibar and closet with sheepskin slippers, no beds, no furniture, no phone, no television, just lounging mat; glass floors offer view of illuminated bare earth below; only sound is trickling of soaking tub, heated to constant 89.2°; 1 Michelin star restaurant next door (Les Cols); when you go to dinner, lounging mat made into bed for night.
Valdepalacios Hotel Gourmand – Carretera de Oropesa a Puente del Arzobispo (Torrico); 011-34-925-457-534;; on 1.5K acre private estate; 27 rooms in 19th Century house surrounded by forests full of deer and other game.

La Alqueria – Calle Virgen de las Nieves (Sanlucar La Mayor, outside Seville, at El Bulli Hotel Hacienda Benazuza); 011-34-955-703-344;; 2 Michelin stars.
Ca l’Arpa – 5 Passeig Industria (Banyoles); 011-34-972-572-353;; owned by former Michelin-starred chef and wife.
Les Cols – Mas les Cols, Centra de la Canya (Canya); 011-34-972-269-209; adjacent to Les Cols Pavellones; 1 Michelin star.

Sights & Sites
Garrotxa National Park – 2 hours north of Barcelona.

Si Us Plau – 58 Rhode; 011-34-972-254-264;; beachfront café.

Can Fabes – 6 Sant Joan; 011-34-938-672-851;; at least until recently, 3 Michelin stars.

Sant Pau – 10 Carrer Nou; 011-34-937-600-662;; 3 Michelin stars; owns Moments (in Barcelona), which has 1 star.

Bars & Nightclubs
Sentits – 25 Placa de la Font (Old City); 011-34-977-222-626; great tapas; indoor and outdoor tables.

AC Tarragona – 8 Avinguda de Roma; 011-34-977-247-105;; in city’s new part and 15-minute walk from old city.
Hotel Lauria – 20 Rambla Nova; 011-34-977-236-712;; venerable; couple blocks from old city; ask for renovated “executive” room; swimming pool.

L’Ancora – 25 Carrer de Trafalgar Serrallo); 011-34-977-242-806; great seafood served on tables that spill out into shaded portion street closest to docks.
L’Ancora – 2 Passeig Maritim Sant Joan de Deu; 011-34-977-694-777;
Barquet – 16 Gasometre; 011-34-977-240-023;; famous for its romesco sauce; near Mercat Central, and Roman Forum-Theater.
Degusta – 6 Cavallers; 011-34-977-252-428;; somewhat formal restaurant with most inventive food in Tarragona.
Sentits – 25 Placa de la Font (Old City); 011-34-977-222-626; great tapas; indoor and outdoor tables.

Sights & Sites
Aqueducte de les Ferrers (Pont del Diable) – CN-240 de Valls a Lleida (4 kms north of Tarragona);; large aqueduct that once supplied (still supplies?) Tarragona with water from Francoli River; water goes from Rourell area, about 92 ms above sea level, and travels 10 km through aqueduct; 217 ms l, 2 ms w, and 27 ms h; upper tier has 25 arches; lower tier has 11; built in 1st Century CE, using stone without mortar.