Monday, October 29, 2012

ST. TROPEZ

(includes Gassin, La Lavandou, Port Grimaud, Ramatuelle & Sainte-Maxime)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Marcel et Cavazza – 29 Rue Georges Clemenceau; 011-33-4-9497-8353; www.gillespudlowski.com/1811/produits/la-meilleure-tropezienne-celle-de-cavazza; since 1945; specializes in vanilla pastry with cream filling (Tropezienne, name suggested by Brigitee Bardot while she was in St. Tropez, in 1955, while filming And God Created Woman).



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Cafe Senequier – Sur le Port St. Tropez; 011-33-4-9497-0090; chic place for early evening cocktails.
Les Caves du Roy – Avenue Paul Signac (at Hotel Byblos); 011-33-4-9456-6800; lescavesduroy.com; extremely over-priced, movie star and tycoon hangout.
Hotel Sube – 15 Quai Suffren; hotel-sube.com; 011-33-4-8961-9002; 2nd floor terrace w/view (real in place).
Kube Hotel – Route de St.-Tropez (Gassin); 011-33-4-9497-2000; muranoresort.com; with 4 bars, essentially party complex; underground “Ice Kube” is subzero room lined with ice – $50 gets you parka and 4 vodka drinks; rooftop “Skybar” specializes in champagne and gulf views; poolside Terrasse Martini has white couches; 4th bar is sci-fi lobby lounge.
Pan Dei Palais Hotel – 52 Rue Gambetta (pool bar); 011-33-4-9417-7171; pandei.com; carved screens and Hindu god statutes surrounded by chaises lounges and 4-poster beds; try “Red One” (Monkey Shoulder Scotch, amaretto, lemon, strawberry juice, and fig syrup).
Le Quai – 22 Quai Jean Jaures; 011-33-4-9497-0407; lequai-St.-Tropez.com; black banquettes, black carpet, and black glass tables; funk and R&B music.



BEACHES
Aqua Club – Plage de Pampelonne, Roue de l’Epi (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9479-8435; aqua-club-plage.fr; very gay-friendly.
La Cabane Bambou – Plage de Pampelonne, Route de Bonne Terrasse (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9479-8413; cabanebambouplage.com; laid back beach club good for families; good food.
Club 55 – Plage de Pampelonne, Boulevard Patch (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9455-5555; club55.fr; for “self-styled elite.”
New Coco Beach – Plage de Pampelonne, Route de l’Epi (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9479-8325; newcoco.fr; new; equipped with bar and restaurant; reasonably-volumed music; rental chairs; more middle-class crowd.
Nikki Beach – Plage de Pampelonne, Route de l’Epi (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9479-8204; nikkibeach.com/sttropez; bathing suit top optional.



HOTELS
B. Lodge – 23 Rue d l’Aioli; 011-33-4-9497-0657; hotel-b-lodge.com; modern gray and white tones; pleasant bar and restaurant; affordable.
Benkirai – 11 Chemin du Pinet (former Lou Pinet St. Tropez); 011-33-4-9497-0437; hotel-benkirai.com; in quiet neighborhood on Cap du Pinet, this 42-room hotel is for those who love St. Tropez at arm’s length; beautiful pool; snug rooms; restaurant scene is fabulous; May and September are best months; room with direct access to pool, such as #16, is best.
Hotel De La Ponche – 3 Rue des Remparts; 011-33-4-9497-0253; laponche.com; best-kept secret boutique around; excellent restaurant.
Hotel Ermitage – Avenue Paul Signac; 011-33-4-9497-5233; ermitagehotel.fr; impeccably sourced retro furniture and panoramic terrace restaurant; 27 rooms; effortlessly cool; affordable.
Pan dei Palais – 52 Rue Gambetta; 011-33-4-9417-7171; pandei.com.fr; 12 rooms in apricot-painted villa in town’s heart; feels like intimate guest house; lovely pool; May and September best months; suites or Chambre Prestige (with pool view) are best.
La Reserve Ramatuelle – Chemin de la Quessine (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9444-9444; lareserve-ramatuelle.com.
Villa Marie – Route des Plages, Chemin Val Rian (Ramatuelle); 011-33-4-9497-4022; villamarie.fr/uk; absolutely “the” place to stay – can’t be beat for combination of accommodations and price.



RESTAURANTS
Club Cinquante Cinq – Boulevard Patch (Ramatuelle, at Pampelonne Beach); 011-33-4-9455-5555; lunchtime beach destination accessed by narrow road, clogged bumper to bumper by high-ticket automobiles; among toughest tables to book for lunch in high season; beach club divided between main restaurant and canopy-shaded beach bar; overgrown bamboo forest is backdrop; one-time, ramshackle beach hut where Colmont family lived; they wound up catering for And God Created Woman cast and crew; fresh wild salad and interesting menu.
Colette – Route des Salins (at Hotel Sezz); 011-33-4-9444-5311; hotelsezz-sainttropez.com; décor is aswarm with stars.
Cristina Saulini – 13 Rue des Feniers; 011-33-4-9497-4610; cristinasaulini.com; excellent Italian food.
Le Dit Vin – 43 Rue du Portail Neuf; 011-33-4-9479-8509; tapas; affordable with lovely, peaceful dining room and terrace.
La Kemia – 10 Avenue General LeClerc (Sainte-Maxime); 011-33-4-9497-2068; known for its tagines.



SERVICES
Bay Cruises – Vieux Port (in front of Café de Paris); 011-33-6-0709-2127; taxi-bateau.com; ask for 1-hour cruise on Brigantin II so Captain Stephane can regale you with inside anecdotes and gossip about glitterati.



SHOPPING
Atelier Rondini – 18 Rue Georges Clemenceau; 011-33-4-9497-1955; rondini.fr; simple leather sandals, popular since at least Colette (1927).
Rose Calin – 27 Rue Georges Clemenceau; 011-33-4-9454-8254; www.pure-saint-tropez.fr/mode/rose-calin; top children’s clothing for 30 years.
Martine Chambon – 62 Rue Francois Sibilli; 011-33-4-9497-0960; martinechambon.com; women’s wear boutique.
La Chemise Tropezienne – 23 Rue Gambetta; 011-33-4-9479-5975; lachemisetropezienne.com; locally designed dress shirts.
Le Depot – 6 Boulevard Louis Blanc; 011-33-4-9497-8010; vintage haute couture.
Frisson – 2 Rue Jean Mermoz; 011-33-4-9454-2792; www.pure-saint-tropez.fr/annuaire/dossier-special/frisson-lingerie-by-camille; lingerie.
Gas Bijoux – 15 Quai Suffren (Place de la Garonne); 011-33-4-9497-2652; gasbijoux.com.
Luxury Stuff & Toys – 1 Place de la Croix de Fer; 011-33-4-9497-5155; luxurystuffandtoys.com; like name says.
La Maison des Papillons – 17 Rue Etienne Berny; 011-33-4-9497-6345; www.saint-tropez.tv/html/papillons.html; 35K species displayed with photography atelier upstairs.
Marinette – 22 Rue Georges Clemenceau; 011-33-4-9456-2317; marinettedecoration.com; home decor.
Truffaux – 5 Rue des Commercants; 011-33-4-9456-5138; truffaux.com; panama hats.
Vignobles de Saint-Tropez – Avenue Paul Roussel; 011-33-4-9497-0160; cave-saint-tropez.fr; wine store.
Vilebrequin – 9 Rue Jean Mermoz; 011-33-4-9497-6712; vilebrequin.com; luxury swimwear.



SIGHTS & SITES
Citadelle – Rue de la Citadelle (above city); 011-33-4-9497-5943; sainttropez.fr.
Helene & Pierre Lazareff Villa – La Lavandou; originally media barons Helene and Pierre Lazareff’s Riviera home where they entertained Hollywood royalty, such as Deborah Kerr, David Niven, and Jean Seberg during Bonjour Tristesse’s filming.
La Maison des Papillons – 17 Rue Etienne Berny; 011-33-4-9497-6345; www.saint-tropez.tv/html/papillons.html; 35K species displayed with photography atelier upstairs.
Musee de l’Annonciade – Place Grammont; 011-33-4-9417-8410; 16th Century church turned museum.
Place des Lices – centrally located, with Saturday morning market.

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