Sunday, October 30, 2011


(includes Bernalillo, Corrales, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque & Rio Rancho)

Barelas Coffee House – 1502 4th Street Southwest; 505-843-7577; may look like set in search of script, but is real deal; diners come from all over city to sup in this old-fashioned chile parlor in Hispanic Historic Route 66 neighborhood south of downtown; also tasty breakfast fare.
Golden Crown Panaderia – 1103 Mountain Road Northwest; 505-243-2424;; for bolilos, empanadas, etc.

Apothecary Lounge – 806 Central Avenue Southeast (at Parq Central Hotel); 505-242-0040;; extensive cocktail menu; good for sunset drinks.
Kelly’s – 3222 Central Avenue Southeast (Nob Hill); 505-262-2739;; University of New Mexico bar; set in 1939 Ford service station; weather permitting, sit outside.
Marble Pub – 111 Marble Street Northwest; 505-243-2739;; consummate New Mexico bar (banjo players, benches, or salsa drummers).

Hotel Andaluz – 125 2nd Street Northwest; 505-242-9090 or 877-987-9090;
Los Poblanos Inn – 4803 Rio Grande Boulevard Northwest; 505-344-9297;; set on acreage that supplies city’s biggest organic farm-share program; impeccable rooms balance adobe and brick with Alexander Girard textiles; sumptuous breakfast and dinner.

Barelas Coffee House – 1502 4th Street Southwest; 505-843-7577; may look like set in search of script, but is real deal; diners come from all over city to sup in this old-fashioned chile parlor in Hispanic Historic Route 66 neighborhood south of downtown; also tasty breakfast fare.
El Bruno’s Albuquerque – 8806 4th Street Northwest; 505-897-0444;; family-owned; uses best quality meat for fajitas.
Casa de Benavidez – 8032 4th Street Northwest (Los Ranchos de Albuquerque); 505-897-7493;; family-owned.
Cervantes – 5801 Gibson Boulevard Southeast; 505-262-2253;; Mexican & New Mexican food since 1976.
Cesar’s – 5300 Lomas Boulevard Northeast; 505-256-8017;; only Mexican & Greek restaurant in world with drive-thru window.
El Charritos – 4703 Central Northwest; 505-836-2464;; best bets are Tiwa taco, corn fries, mutton stew, blue corn pancakes, Pojoaque carne adovada plate, Mama’s burrito, biscochitos, and prune pie.
Church Street Cafe – 2111 Church Street Northwest; 505-247-8522;; New Mexican cuisine in oldest city residence (1706).
Cooperage Restaurant – 7220 Lomas Boulevard Northeast; 505-255-1657;; prime rib since 1976.
Los Cuates – 8700 Menaul Boulevard Northeast; 505-237-2800;; New Mexican food.
Los Cuates – 4901 Lomas Boulevard Northeast; 505-255-5079;; New Mexican food.
Los Cuates – 10051 Coors Boulevard Bypass Northwest; 505-897-7441;; New Mexican food.
Duran Central Pharmacy – 1815 Central Avenue Northwest; 505-247-4141;; unique old fashioned drugstore with soda fountain and popular New Mex-Mex lunches.
El Patio de Albuquerque – 142 Harvard Drive Southeast; 505-268-4245;; across from University of New Mexico; no-frills spot; includes vegetarian options.
Ezra’s Place – 6132 4th Street Northwest; 505-344-1917; fluorescent-lit room overlooking Lucky 66 bowling lanes; family restaurant run by chef with Chez Panisse credentials and farm-to-table produce; try blueberry pancakes with pine-nut butter and/or duck enchiladas with tomatillo-serrano salsa.
Frontier Restaurant – 2400 Central Avenue Southeast; 505-266-0550;; occupies better part city block; walls adorned with John Wayne portraits; no trip to Albuquerque complete with at least 1 meal here.
Garcia’s Kitchen-Original – 2924 San Mateo Boulevard Northeast; 505-888-3488;; fresh, hand-prepared, New Mexican cuisine at reasonable prices since 1975; try carne adovada.
Garcia’s Kitchen – 4917 4th Street Northwest; 505-341-4594;; fresh, hand-prepared, New Mexican cuisine at reasonable prices since 1975; try carne adovada.
Garcia’s Kitchen – 1113 4th Street Northwest; 505-247-9149;; fresh, hand-prepared, New Mexican cuisine at reasonable prices since 1975; try carne adovada.
Golden Crown Panaderia – 1103 Mountain Road Northwest; 505-243-2424;; for bolilos, empanadas, etc.; also, Mexican pizza and greens from indoor garden.
Grill on Menaul – 4615 Menaul Boulevard Northeast; 505-872-9772;; best burgers in town; some say best steaks.
Grove – 600 Central Avenue Southeast; 505-248-9800;; must-have breakfasts; try pancakes with raspberry jam and/or chocolate date scones.
Jennifer James 101 – 4615a Menaul Boulevard Northeast; 505-884-3860;; small space so make reservations; perhaps best Albuquerque restaurant.
Jo’s Place – 6100B 4th Street Northwest; 505-341-4500; owned by Ezra’s place chef-family; towering burgers & chili-dusted fries.
Marble Brewery – 111 Marble Street Northwest; 505-243-2739;
Mary & Tito’s – 2711 4th Street Northwest; 505-344-6266;; neither décor nor recipes have changed in decades; won 2010 James Beard America’s Classic award; try carne adovada (wrapped in flaky dough and fried).
El Modelo – 1715 2nd Street Southwest; 505-242-1843;; quality New Mexican food for over 79 years.
Monroe’s Restaurant – 1520 Lomas Boulevard Northwest; 505-242-1111;; circa-1960s drive-in for Mexican food & burgers.
Monroe’s Restaurant – 6051 Osuna Road Northeast; 505-881-4224;; circa-1960s drive-in for Mexican food & burgers.
Monte Carlo Liquors & Steakhouse – 3916 Central Avenue (7 miles from Albuquerque airport); 505-831-2444;; chophouse & liquor store cohabitate in this low-slung, painted brick building; back entrance leads directly to steakhouse, but why not set mood by walking in via liquor store; with tufted, horseshoe-shaped booths, posters of Elvis & Marilyn, and red pleather seats, no surprise that Breaking Bad cast broke bread here; shrimp slung over parfait glasses, steaks with precise grill marks, baked potato on side; must try green chile cheeseburger.
Owl Cafe – 800 Eubank Boulevard Northeast; 505-291-4900;; Albuquerque landmark since 1986; owl-shaped, 50s-style diner; breakfast & burgers; landmark.
El Pinto Restaurant & New Mexican Salsa Company – 10500 4th Street Northwest; 505-898-1771;; green chile, sopapillas, carne adovada, etc., in old hacienda surrounded by lush gardens.
Q Burger – 301 Central Avenue Northwest; 505-224-2747;; downtown joint for grass-fed, high-quality burgers.
Range Cafe – 2200 Menaul Boulevard Northeast; 505-888-1660;; for breakfast.
Range Cafe – La Mirada Square, 4401 Wyoming Boulevard Northeast #1; 505-293-2633;; for breakfast.
Range Cafe – 925 South Camino Del Pueblo (Bernalillo); 505-867-1700;; original Range Cafe; eclectic & funky dining atmosphere; gift shop; primarily for breakfast.
Sadie’s on Academy – 5400 Academy Road Northeast; 505-821-3388;; informal restaurant serving classic New Mexican cuisine, including enchiladas & tacos; best New Mexican Restaurant according to Albuquerque Magazine; pomegranate margaritas; newest location.
Sadie’s East – 15 Hotel Circle Northeast; 505-296-6940;; informal restaurant serving classic New Mexican cuisine, including enchiladas & tacos; pomegranate margaritas; best New Mexican Restaurant according to Albuquerque Magazine.
Sadie’s on 4th – 6230 4th Street Northwest (Los Ranchos de Albuquerque); 505-345-5339;; informal restaurant serving classic New Mexican cuisine, including enchiladas & tacos; best New Mexican Restaurant according to Albuquerque Magazine; original restaurant; pomegranate margaritas.
Sadie’s at Star – 54 Jemez Canyon Dam Road (Bernalillo); 505-771-7140;; informal restaurant serving classic New Mexican cuisine, including enchiladas & tacos; best New Mexican Restaurant according to Albuquerque Magazine; pomegranate margaritas.
La Salita Restaurant – 1217 Eubank Boulevard Northeast; 505-299-9968;; traditional New Mexican food, family-made from scratch since 1965.
Sophia’s Place – 6313 4th Street Northwest; 505-345-3935; owned by Ezra’s place chef-family.
St. Clair Winery & Bistro – 901 Rio Grande Boulevard Northwest; 505-243-9916;; local landmark since 1984.
Tia Betty Blue’s – 1248 San Mateo Boulevard Southeast; 505-268-1955;; described by some as extraordinary; home-style New Mexican breakfasts & lunches.
Weck’s on Louisiana – 3913 Louisiana Northeast; 505-881-0019;; for breakfast & lunch.
Weck’s on Osuna – 4500 Osuna, #100; 505-344-1472;; for breakfast & lunch.
Weck’s on Juan Tabo – 1105 Juan Tabo Boulevard Northeast; 505-293-3154;; for breakfast & lunch.
Weck’s on Coors – 6311 Riverside Plaza Lane; 505-352-6209;; for breakfast & lunch.
Weck’s on San Mateo – 933 San Mateo Boulevard Northeast; 505-265-9237;; for breakfast & lunch.
Weck’s on 4th Street – 2039 4th Street Northwest; 505-242-1226;; for breakfast & lunch.
Weck’s on Paseo Del Norte – 6650 Holly Avenue Northeast, #C4; 505-821-9816;; for breakfast & lunch.
Weck’s in Rio Rancho – 1620 Rio Rancho Boulevard Southeast; 505-896-1411;; for breakfast & lunch.

Rainbow Ryders – 5601 Eagle Rock Avenue Northeast; 505-823-1111;; air balloon tour over city and surrounding countryside; amazing.
Stevie’s Happy Bikes – 4583 Corrales Road; 505-897-7900;; owners will give you directions to pedal down to Paseo del Bosque trail, along Corrales’ irrigation channels.

Maisel’s – 510 Central Avenue Southwest; 505-242-6526;; American Indian arts emporium.
Man’s Hat Shop – 511 Central Avenue Northwest; 505-247-9605;; hats.
Los Poblanos Farm Shop – 4803 Rio Grande Boulevard Northwest; 505-938-2192;; stocks lavendar soaps & salves, etc.
New Mexico Piñon Coffee Co. – 4431 Anaheim Ave Northeast; 505-298-1964;; try biscochito.
Quality Taxidermy – 10527 2nd Street Northwest; 505-897-7598; owned by Tom Kettles; considered to be among best taxidermy studios in America.

ABQ Trolley – 303 Romero Street Northwest; 505-240-8000;; faux-trolley tour of Route 66, featuring locations from Breaking Bad & Bill Gates-Paul Allen tales; despite tacky-seeming appearance and atmosphere, actually fun and interesting.
Church of Beethoven – 1715 5th Street Northwest; 505-234-4611;; Sunday morning chamber music series, free to public and non-religious; arrive early to score best seats.
KiMo Theater – 423 Central Avenue Northwest; 505-768-3522;; opened in 1927 as movie palace, now public arts center; enter through business offices to admire cow skull wall sconces and pueblo drum chandeliers.
Lightning Field – P.O. Box 2993 (Corrales, 87048); 505-898-3335;; Walter de Maria’s landscape art piece; by appointment.
National Hispanic Cultural Center – 1701 4th Street Southwest; 505-246-2261;; make sure to see Frederico Vigil’s 4K' square fresco, depicting 3K years Hispanic cultural history; contemporary art gallery free admission on Sundays.
Paseo del Bosque Trail – extends from Sandia Pueblo in north through Albuquerque and south to Isleta Pueblo; Rio Grande bosque offers unique, arid environment (large cottonwood trees, coyote willow, and New Mexico olive create cool, shady forest and provide habitat for beaver, numerous bird species, turtles, and snakes); extends through Corrales, village within city.
Petroglyph National Monument – 6510 Western Trail Northwest; 505-899-0205;; stretches 17 miles along West Mesa; scant petroglyphs but good hiking.

Wednesday, October 26, 2011


(includes Clayton & Valley Park)


Mud House – 2101 Cherokee Street; 314-776-6599;; coffee.
SweetArt – 2203 South 39th Street; 314-771-4278;; mom and pop art studio and bakery.

Buffalo – 3100 Olive Street (Mid-Town Alley); 314-534-2337;; local beer geek’s favorite (next door to Pappy’s).
Civil Life – 3714 Holt Avenue (Tower Grove South); 314-771-9570;; 2 level brew-pub with nooks to facilitate conversation.
4 Hands – 1220 South 8th Street (near Busch Stadium); 314-436-1555;; brew pub with tasting bar made of 107 year-old, Missouri barn wood.
FSFU – 5510 Virginia Avenue; 314-351-4500;; Fred’s 6 Feet Under; owned by Fred Boettcher, Jr. (a/k/a Fred Friction), proprietor of former Frederick’s Music Lounge.
Moonrise Hotel – 6177 Delmar Boulevard; 314-721-1111;; rooftop bar.
Olio – 1634 Tower Grove Avenue (McRee Town); 314-932-1088;; in Art Deco gas station; wonderful cocktails, on patio (weather permitting).
Perennial Artisan Ales – 8125 Michigan Avenue (South Carondelet); 314-631-7300;; brew pub.
Planter’s House – 1000 Mississippi Avenue; 314-696-2603;; romantic, cozy spot for cocktails.
Royale – 3132 South Kingshighway; 314-772-3600;; Art Deco-style bar of blond wood and glass; extensive cocktail menu; nice backyard patio.
Six Row – 3690 Forest Park Avenue (Mid-Town Alley); 314-531-5600;; brew pub.
Taste by Niche – 1831 Sidney Street; 314-773-7755;; try Grey Fizz (gin, Earl-Grey-infused vermouth, lemon, egg whites) and cookies with bacon cream.
Urban Chestnut – 3229 Washington Avenue (Mid-Town Alley); 314-222-0143;; brew pub with small garden in front, with long wooden tables shipped from Germany.

Chase Park Plaza – 212-232 North Kingshighway; 314-627-0168 or 877-587-2427;
Four Seasons – 999 North 2nd Street; 314-881-5800 or 800-819-5053;; part of striking riverside complex; casino.
Moonrise Hotel – 6177 Delmar Boulevard; 314-721-1111;; pleasant boutique with central location; rooftop bar and restaurant, Eclipse.

Donut Stop – 1101 Lemay Ferry Road; 314-631-3333;; glazed donuts, fried pies, fritters, and custard-filled rounds.
Eclipse – 6177 Delmar Boulevard (at Moonrise Hotel); 314-721-1111;
Elaia – 1634 Tower Grove Avenue (McRee Town); 314-932-1088;; Mediterranean fine dining.
Franco – 1535 South 8th Street; 314-436-2500;; industrial-chic bistro; French.
Imo’s – 3222 Morgan Ford Road; 314-773-1977;
Imo’s – 1828 Washington Avenue; 314-241-6000;
Imo’s – 1 South Broadway (Hilton St. Louis at Ballpark); 314-641-8899;
Iron Barley – 5510 Virginia Avenue; 314-351-4500;; 4 stars.
Little Country Gentleman – 8135 Maryland Avenue (Clayton); 314-725-0719;; fine dining; 3 tasting menus nightly that draw on ingredients sourced from midwest; Old World wines.
Local Harvest Café & Catering – 3137 Morgan Ford Road; 314-772-8185;; in Tower Grove neighborhood; organic food; 4-course menu on Saturday nights.
Monarch – 7401 Manchester Road; 314-644-3995;; American-Asian-French fusion.
Olio – 1634 Tower Grove Avenue (McRee Town); 314-932-1088;; in Art Deco gas station; Mediterranean; small plates.
Pappy’s Smokehouse – 3106 Olive Street; 314-535-4340;; highly regarded barbecue; try deep-fried corn on cob.
Taste by Niche – 1831 Sidney Street; 314-773-7755;
Winslow’s Home – 7211 Delmar Boulevard; 314-725-7559;; great place for brunch; doubles as general store; try brioche French toast.

Apop Records – 2831 Cherokee Street; 314-664-6576;; music.
PhD Gallery – 2300 Cherokee Street; 314-664-6644;; art.
Soulard Market – 730 Carroll Street; 314-622-4180;; farmers’ market.
SweetArt – 2203 South 39th Street; 314-771-4278;; mom and pop art studio and bakery.

American Kennel Club Museum of Dog – 1721 South Mason Road; 314-821-3647;; collection devoted to dog art.
Cherokee Street –; transitional neighborhood known for antique shops.
Citygarden – 720 Olive Street; 314-421-4063;; sculpture park; arcing limestone wall maps river.
Forest Park – 5595 Grand Drive; 314-367-7275;; 1.2K acres downtown; houses museums and greenhouse.
Gateway Arch – 100 Washington Avenue; 314-655-1600 or 877-982-1410 (tickets);; clad in stainless steel, this flattened catenary arch is tallest man-made monument in US; designed by Finnish-American architect Eero Saarinen & German-American structural engineer Hannskarl Bandel in 1947.
Mildred Lane Kemper Art Museum – 1 Brookings Drive (on Washington University campus); 314-935-4523;; designed by Fumihiko Maki; contemporary and traditional art.
Missouri Botanical Garden – 4344 Shaw Boulevard; 314-577-5100;; nation’s oldest continuously operating botanical garden; 79 acres with largest Japanese garden in US; make sure to see “Jewel Box,” contemporary, striking greenhouse built in 1936.
Peabody Opera House – 1400 Market Street; 314-499-7600;; renovated historic building that exhibits live music and other arts performances.
Pulitzer Foundation for Arts – 3716 Washington Boulevard; 314-754-1850;; considered “perfect museum”; designed by Tadao Ando.
St. Louis Art Museum – 1 Fine Arts Drive; 314-655-5249;; among America’s principal art museums.
St. Louis Zoo – 1 Government Drive; 314-781-0900;
World Bird Sanctuary – 125 Bald Eagle Ridge Road (Valley Park); 636-225-4390;; 300 acre threatened bird reserve.

Tuesday, October 25, 2011


(includes Lac-Beauport, St.-Ferreol-les-Neiges, Ste.-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier, and Stoneham-Tewkesbury)

La Barberie – 310 Rue St.-Roch (St.-Roch); 418-522-4373;; among city’s most beloved micro-breweries; outdoor patio.
Bar Le Sacrilege – 447 Rue St.-Jean (St.-Jean); 418-649-1985;; 13 local beers and cider.
Le Cercle – 228 Rue St.-Joseph Est; 418-948-8648;; wine bar with performance space at which arts (comedy, music, etc.) events held; small kitchen for late-night snacking.
La Cuisine – 205 Rue St.-Vallier Est; 418-523-3387;; outfitted like retro student’s university apartment.
Maurice Nightclub – 575 Grand-Allee Est; 418-647-2000;
Savini Resto-Bar Vinoteque – 680 Grand-Allee Est; 418-647-4747;

Auberge St.-Antoine – 8 St.-Antoine Street; 418-692-2211 or 888-692-2211;; built near Old Port; museum-like accommodations; sleek; excellent food.
Auberge Duchesnay – 140 Montee de l’Auberge (Ste.-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier); 418-875-2122;; 48 modern rooms overlooking Lake Ste.-Joseph; on-property biking, boating, and hiking.
Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac – 1 Rue de Carrieres; 418-692-3861 or 866-540-4460;; Guinness World Record for “most photographed hotel” in world; 1 of series of chateau-style hotels built for Canadian Pacific Railway company at 19th Century CE’s end and 20th Century CE’s beginning; opened in 1893; named after Louis de Buade, Frontenac Count who governed New France colony 1672-1682 and 1689-1698; built near Citadelle, whose construction Frontenac began at 17th Century CE’s end; 1943 Quebec Conference (Churchill and Roosevelt) held at Citadelle while staff stayed at Chateau Frontenac; hotel perched atop tall cape overlooking St. Lawrence River, giving spectacular view; used as filming location for Hitchcock’s I Confess, with Montgomery Clift and Ann Baxter.
Hotel D’Auteuil – 49 Rue d’Auteuil (Old Quebec); 418-694-1173;; thoroughly renovated pair of 19th Century, Art Deco manor houses opposite Old Town walls; set in Old Québec heart, across from Parliament Hill; 8 minutes’ walk from Québec City Convention Centre, Chateau Frontenac & Montmorency Park; supremely comfortable hotel replete with modern amenities; some rooms offer high ceilings, stone walls, fireplaces & canopy beds; Edith Piaf suite has ultra-spacious blue-tiled bath; two pretty, high-ceilinged breakfast rooms & outdoor terrace.
Hotel Dominion 1912 – 126 Rue St-Pierre; 418-692-2224 or 888-833-5253;; built near Old Port; city’s 1st skyscraper; elegant; breakfast only.
Manoir St.-Castin – 99 Chemin Tour-du-Lac (Lac-Beauport); 418-841-4000;; slightly down at heels but has good restaurant and is near Lake Beauport and Jacques-Cartier National Park.

Bistrot B – 1144 Avenue Cartier; 418-614-5444;; elegantly modern yet cheerfully communal superb design, food, and service; French.
Bistrot Le Clocher Penche – 203 Rue St.-Joseph Est (St.-Roch); 418-640-0597;; good for breakfast.
Le Cercle – 228 Rue St.-Joseph Est; 418-948-8648;; wine bar with performance space at which arts (comedy, music, etc.) events held; small kitchen for late-night snacking.
Cafe Chez Temporel – 25 Rue Couillard (Old Quebec); 418-694-1813; classic French cafe of nearly 40 years; great for people-watching; hidden on side street; quiches, salads, and sandwiches.
Chez Ashton – 640 Grand-Allee Est; 418-522-3449;; late night poutine (French fries drowned in cheese curds and gravy).
L’Affaire est Ketchup – 46 Rue Saint-Joseph Est (St.-Roch); 418-529-9020;; expression, “l’affaire est ketchup,” unique to province & means “it’s all good” or “everything’s cool”; small (8 tables) & seriously homespun; try duck magret or scallops with celeriac purée from kitchen that makes Easy Bake Oven look like 6-burner Viking.
La Cuisine – 205 Rue St.-Vallier Est; 418-523-3387;; outfitted like retro student's university apartment with open kitchen; Quebecois comfort food.
Le Moine Echanson – 585 Rue St.-Jean (St.-Jean); 418-524-7832;; elegant, seasonal, small plates menu.
Restaurant Panache – 10 Rue Saint Antoine; 418-692-1022;; housed in former 19th-century warehouse; massive wood beams and rough stone walls; wrought-iron staircase winds up to 2nd dining level, creating secret attic feel with tables tucked into eves; flickering candles, center fireplace, velvet couches, generous space between tables, and good acoustics (not loud, not churchlike); cuisine Québécoise revisitée, French-Canadian cuisine with twist; tiny bar inside restaurant seats about 12; Café Artefact, separate lounge just off main lobby, provides casual pre-meal meeting spot.

Le Nordique – 747 Jacques-Cartier Nord (Stoneham-Tewkesbury); 418-848-7727;; evokes summer camp; uses river as cold plunge; wood-platform, screen-sided tents serve as seasonal treatment rooms.
Siberia Station Spa – 339 Boulevard du Lac (Lac-Beauport); 418-841-1325;; nature immersion, with Jacuzzi series over terraces on steeply sloped Yellow River banks; steam room (eucalyptus-scented).
Tyst Tradgard – 35 Chemin de la Détente (Ste.-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier); 418-875-1645;; housed in tidy clapboard cottages on Lake Ste.-Joseph’s shores; more pampering and private than others.
Zonespa – 186 Rang St.-Julien (St.-Ferreol-les-Neiges); 418-826-1772;

Boutique Lucia F – 422 Rue Caron (St.-Roch); 418-648-9785; vintage clothing shop; affordable.
La Chambre Blanche – 185 Rue Christophe-Colomb Est (St.-Roch); 418-529-2715;; art collective that features current international resident artists’ efforts.
Choco-Musee Erico – 634 Rue St.-Jean (St.-Jean); 418-524-2122;; try pecan and salted caramel-filled chocolates.
Librairie St.-Jean Baptiste – 565 Rue St.-Jean (St.-Jean); 581-999-0951;; 2nd-hand books.
Machin Chouette – 225 Rue St.-Paul (Old Port); 418-525-9898;; antiques and modern arts objets d’art trove, including handmade one-of-kind items.
Morgan Bridge – 367 Rue du Pont (St.-Roch); 418-529-1682;; Montreal and Quebec city gallery; also, books, music, and t-shirts.

Baie de Beauport – 1 Henri Bourassa; 418-266-0722;; recreational park with kayaks, pedal boats, and sailboat rentals.
Grande-Allée Est – on Quebec Hill, parallel to St. Lawrence River, in La Cité-Limoilou & Sainte-Foy-Sillery-Cap-Rouge boroughs;; Quebec City’s Champs-Elysees; known for restaurants & beautiful buildings; path runs along Parc de la Francophonie on the Grande Allée Est and Plains of Abraham & Parc du Bois-de-Coulonge on Grande Allée West; at fork in Saint-Louis road, Grande Allée extended by Laurier Boulevard to Quebec Bridge.
Le Marche du Vieux Port – 160 Quai St.-Andre (Old Port); 418-692-2517;; sprawling market where chefs and tourists browse.
Old Quebec – city center; UNESCO World Heritage site; car-free streets, towering monuments, and 17th Century homes; head up staircase at corner Rue St.-Louis and Cote de la Citadelle and climb onto grassy fortification wall that encircles old city for best view; hop off at Rue St.-Jean.
St.-Jean-Baptiste Neighborhood – extends from Old Quebec into newer area, following Rue-St.-Jean; bars, boutiques, colorful buildings, and restaurants.
St.-Roch Neighborhood – gentrifying arts district.

Monday, October 24, 2011


Monmouth Plantation – 36 Melrose Avenue; 601-442-5852 or 800-828-4531;; luxe antebellum accommodations.
Sights & Sites
Natchez Trace – Natchez Trace Parkway;; cutting from Natchez, MS, through AL, to Nashville, TN, this 444 mile, 2-lane road follows what was once buffalo, then Indian, then trader trail. Make sure to see: (1) Sunken Trace – milepost 41.5 (outside Port Gibson, MS), offers “enchanting” hike; (2) Cypress Swamp – milepost 122 (Canton, MS), hike through bald cypress and tupelo swamp; (3) Tupelo – milepost 266 (Tupelo, MS), Elvis birthplace; (4) Rock Spring Nature Trail – milepost 330.2 (Cherokee, AL), in late summer, this 20-minute loop is surrounded by blooming jewelweed, which attracts 100s of ruby-throated hummingbirds; (5) Jackson Falls – milepost 404.7 (Shady Grove, TN), named for Andrew Jackson, these are Trace’s most stunning waterfalls; and (6) Loveless Café – milepost 444 (Nashville, TN), half mile after Trace ends, stop by for red-eye gravy and biscuits.

Bars & Nightclubs
Po’ Monkey’s Lounge – Poor Monkey Road (take Highway 61 to corner store and get directions);; juke joint.
Crawdad’s Restaurant – 104 Park Street; 662-748-2441;; smoke-y steaks.
McCarty’s – 101 Saint Mary Street; 662-748-2293;; ceramics.

Port Gibson (includes Alcorn, Lorman & Rodney)
Canemount Plantation – 3999 Highway 552 (Lorman); 601-877-3784 or 800-423-068.
Rosswood Plantation – 2513 Red Lick Road (Lorman); 601-437-4215;
Old Country Store – 18801 Highway 61 South (Lorman); 601-437-3661; built in late 19th Century; classic Southern buffet; this is no movie set, or modernized, made-to-look-old theme restaurant; pay at cash register.
Sights & Sites
Bethel Presbyterian Church – Mississippi Highway 552 (north of Alcorn);; original congregation organized in 1826 under Dr. Jeremiah Chamberlain; during North’s campaign to take Vicksburg, General Grant landed troops east of Mississippi River just few miles from here at Bruinsburg, passing Bethel Church on April 30, 1863 moving to Port Gibson on Rodney Road.
Rocky Springs – between Old Port Gibson Road & Natchez Trace Parkway, mile post 54.8;; ghost town and historic site located in Claiborne County; can be viewed by public during daylight hours.
Shaifer House – take Highway 552 (Rodney Road) south from Port Gibson 1.1 miles, left on Bessie Weathers Road (Magnolia Church at intersection), south 1.3 miles, then right onto unmarked gravel (Shaifer) road, after 1 mile, will come to Old Magnolia Church historical markers, and continue .4 miles to Shaifer House; Confederate Gen. Martin E. Green, on April 30, 1863, posted his brigade near Magnolia Church, with outpost here; shortly after midnight, rode forward to check on pickets; found Mrs. A.K. Shaifer and other ladies piling household effects on wagon; Green assured women there was no need to hurry, since Yankees couldn’t possibly arrive before daybreak; hardly had he spoken before musketry crashed, pickets having exchanged shots with Union vanguard (21st Iowa soldiers); women leaped into wagon and headed for Port Gibson; Green returned to Magnolia Church to alert his troops; Confederate pickets fell back before federal advance; during Battle of Port Gibson, Shaifer house served as Gen. John A. McClernand’s GHQ and union hospital.
Sunken Trace – Natchez Trace Parkway milepost 41.5 (north of Port Gibson and just north of Highway 18);; walk short portion original Natchez Trace though deeply eroded trail; trace appears sunken due to Ks travelers walking on easily eroded loose soil.
Windsor Ruins – 15095 Rodney Road (about 10 miles southwest of Port Gibson, near Alcorn State University); 601-437-4351;; Mississippi’s largest antebellum Greek Revival mansion; at one time covered 2.6K acres; Smith Coffee Daniell II constructed 1859-1861 (designed by David Shroder who also designed and built Rosswood, located in Lorman); labor by slaves; 29 45' columns (with iron Corinthian capitals) supported projecting roof line; galleries encompassed house at 2nd & 3rd levels; skilled New England carpenters finished woodwork; iron stairs, column capitals, and balustrades manufactured in St. Louis and shipped down Mississippi River to Bruinsburg Port (several miles west of Windsor); mansion cost about $175K (equal to $4.5M today); Smith Daniell lived in home only few weeks before died (age 34); contained over 25 rooms, each with fireplace; among other innovations, interior baths supplied with water from attic tank; during Civil War, used by both Confederate and Union troops; on February 17, 1890, guest left lighted cigar on balcony, causing fire that burned from top to bottom, making it impossible to extinguish; house completely destroyed; only remnants today are 23 columns & wrought-iron stairs.

Bars & Nightclubs
Ground Zero Blues Club – 387 Delta Avenue; 662-621-9009;; owned by Morgan Freeman.
Red’s Lounge – 395 Sunflower Avenue; genuine juke joint.
Lofts at Five & Dime – 121 East 2nd Street; 662-645-8874 or 888-510-9604;; 6 rooms; above old Woolworth’s.
Shack Up Inn – 1 Commissary Circle; 662-624-8329;; bare-bones “bass camp” (guitar camp & hotel).
Madidi – 164 Delta Avenue; 662-627-7770;; owned by Morgan Freeman; Southern soul food.
Cat Head Delta Blues & Folk Art – 252 Delta Avenue; 662-624-5992;; books and music emporium.
Sights & Sites
Delta Blues Museum – 1 Blues Alley; 662-627-6820;
Rock & Blues Museum – 113 East 2nd Street; 662-605-8662;

Interstate BBQ – 150 Stateline Road West; 662-393-5699;; surly staff, great barbecue.

Sights & Sites
Beauvoir – 2244 Beach Boulevard; 228-388-4400;; notable as historic post-war home (1876-1889) of former Confederate President Jefferson Davis; construction begun in 1848 and purchased in 1873 by planter Samuel Dorsey and his wife Sarah Dorsey; after her husband’s death (1875), widow learned of Davis’ difficulties and invited him to plantation, offering him cottage near main house where could live and work at his memoirs; he ended up living there for life’s remainder; ill with cancer, in 1878, she remade her will and bequeathed Beauvoir to Davis and his surviving daughter, Varina Anne Davis, who sold it in 1902 to Mississippi Chapter of Sons of Confederate Veterans, stipulating that it be used as Confederate veterans home and later as Davis memorial; barracks built and property used as home until 1953, when adapted as museum; in 1998, Presidential library completed and opened on site; badly damaged (partially destroyed) during Hurricane Katrina (August 29, 2005); restored and re-opened; work continues on library.
Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art – 386 Beach Boulevard; 228-374-5547;; African-American art.

Hilton Garden Inn Jackson Downtown – 235 West Capitol Street; 601-353-5464;; restored historic building.
Big Apple Inn – 509 North Farish Street; 601-354-4549; pig-ear sandwiches and history as Civil Rights Movement’s “cradle.”
Mayflower Café – 123 West Capitol Street; 601-355-4122; institution; celebrities, lawyers, and politicians.
Palette Café – 380 South Lamar Street (at Mississippi Museum of Art); 601-960-1515;; operated by Viking and easily best place for lunch downtown.
Sights & Sites
Agriculture & Forestry Museum – 1150 Lakeland Drive; 601-713-3365;; rustic; spread among several buildings designed to resemble small Mississippi town, complete with blacksmith’s shop and general store.
Lefleur’s Bluff State Park – 2148 Riverside Drive; 601-987-3923;; nice hiking trails; includes Museum of Natural Science (see below).
Mississippi Museum of Art – 380 South Lamar Street; 601-960-1515;; includes everything from folk art and photography to pre-Columbian art and American landscapes; also, Art Garden and Palette Cafe.
Museum of Natural Science – 2148 Riverside Drive (at Lefleur’s Bluff State Park); 601-354-7303;; indoor-outdoor exhibits; aquariums.
Old Capitol – 100 State Street; 601-576-6920;; described as “without question, state’s most historic building.”
Smith Robertson Museum – 528 Bloom Street; 601-960-1457;; housed in Mississippi’s 1st public school for African American children; Richard Wright’s alma mater; traces African American cultural history.
Eudora Welty House – 601-353-7762; 1119 Pinehurst Street;; have to arrange in advance (tours 9 & 11 am and 1 & 3 pm, Wednesday-Friday); Tudor Revival house in which Welty lived for over 75 years; lovely garden.

Sights & Sites
Mississippi Sandhill Crane National Wildlife Refuge – 7200 Crane Lane; 228-497-6322;; established in 1975 to safeguard endangered Mississippi Sandhill Crane and its unique disappearing wet pine savanna habitat; consists of more than 19K acres 4 units; part of Gulf Coast National Wildlife Refuge Complex.

Bars & Nightclubs
Ajax Diner – 118 Courthouse Square; 662-232-8880;; excellent Bloody Marys.
City Grocery – 152 Courthouse Square; 662-232-8080;; rowdy bar upstairs.
Lamar Lounge – 1309 North Lamar Boulevard; 662-513-6197;; full bar.
Proud Larry’s – 211 South Lamar Boulevard; 662-236-0050;; bar and live music venue.
Blue Creek Cabins – 535 Highway 30 East; 662-238-2897;; liveable historical piece; hand water pump in kitchen; 19th Century relic is humble but comfortable.
Castle Hill Resort – 120 Castlehill Drive; 662-234-3735;; old South mansion replica; massive; 4-poster beds in rooms.
5 Twelve – 512 Van Buren Avenue; 662-234-8043;; perhaps highest ceilings around.
Inn at Ole Miss – Ole Miss campus; 662-234-2331 or 888-486-7666;; Oxford’s only full-service hotel; offers shuttle service into town.
Inn at Ravine – 53 Pea Ridge Road; 662-234-4555;; decor is tad Cracker Barrel; worth staying if only for fantastic breakfasts.
Z Shanty – 1015 South 11th Street; 713-927-1295;; 80s decor includes 2 silver lame couches.
Ajax Diner – 118 Courthouse Square; 662-232-8880;; classic Southern comfort food.
Big Bad Breakfast – 719 North Lamar Boulevard; 662-236-2666; try “cathead” (house-made biscuit with fried chicken and slice cheddar cheese).
Boure – 309 North Lamar Boulevard; 662-234-1968;; Cajun-Creole food.
City Grocery – 152 Courthouse Square; 662-232-8080;; elegant dining downstairs.
Ravine – 53 Pea Ridge Road; 662-234-4555;; 2 outdoor patios surrounded by woods for secluded dining experience; contemporary Southern food emphasizing locally raised beef, pork, and seafood, as well as freshly made pastas; uses herbs & vegetables from own gardens, as well as produce from farms in surrounding area.
Lamar Lounge – 1309 North Lamar Boulevard; 662-513-6197;; for brisket; also only pit-smoked, whole hog barbecue in Mississippi.
Oxford Canteen – 1006 Van Buren Avenue; 662-234-5343;; modern take on breakfast & lunch counter.
Ravine – 53 Pea Ridge Road; 662-234-4555;; sophisticated, warm restaurant few miles outside of town.
Snackbar – 721 North Lamar Boulevard; 662-236-6363;; edgier Southern food, such as pig’s ear stirfry.
Taylor Grocery & Restaurant – County Road 338; 662-236-1716;; catfish tradition on Sunday nights; BYOB.
End of All Music – 1423 North Lamar Boulevard; 662-281-1909;; record store (vinyl) but clean & well-lit.
Green Door Company – 1501 Molly Barr Road; 662-380-5074;; distinctive, reclaimed wood furniture.
Off-Square Books – 129 Courthouse Square; 662-236-2828;
Square Books – 160 Courthouse Square; 662-236-2262;
Sights & Sites
Courthouse Square – bound by Jackson Avenue East & Van Buren Avenue;; town hub that dates back to Civil War.
Rowan Oak – 917 Old Taylor Road; 662-234-3284;; open every day except Monday; William Faulkner’s house.
Whirlpool Trails – at end of Coliseum Drive, across Highway 6;; miles long trail on University of Mississippi campus has almost everything for trail rider, from race-pace riders to weekend warriors, even to 1st-timers out on their brand new hybrids; expert trail building (trained by IMBA) yields excellent topography usage, as well as fun use of sustainable features.
Woodson Ridge Farms – 110 County Road 2068; 662-719-5305;; fresh, local produce.

Sights & Sites
Elvis Presley Museum – 306 Elvis Presley Drive; 662-841-1245;
Tupelo Hardware – 114 West Main Street; 662-842-4637;; where Elvis Presley bought his 1st guitar.

Alluvian – 318 Howard Street; 662-453-2114 or 866-728-6700;
Giardina’s – 318 Howard Street; restaurant began life as drive-in; ask to be seated in curtained booth; pronounced “Gardeena’s.”
Spooney’s Trail Bar-Be-Que – 404 Pelican Street; 662-709-1465;; great ribs.
Sights & Sites
Little Zion Missionary Baptist Church – Money Road; 662-455-0004; humble wooden church set under oak trees; small graveyard holds Robert Johnson’s tombstone; 2 other graves are in Quito and Morgan City.

Morgan City
Sights & Sites
New Zion Cemetery – Highway 49E (Mt. Zion Baptist Church, 507 4th Street); 985-385-4019 (church); Robert Johnson grave; 2 other graves are in Greenwood and Quito.

Sights & Sites
Payne Chapel Cemetery – County Road 167; 662-494-2500 (Church, 10052 Payne Field Road, West Point); Robert Johnson burial site; 2 other graves are in Greenwood and Morgan City.

Sights & Sites
Cypress Swamp – Natchez Trace Parkway milepost 122;; walk on raised, wooden boardwalk through bald cypress and tupelo swamp.

Holly Springs
Phillips Grocery Store – 541-A East Van Dorn Avenue; 662-252-4671; hamburgers.

Holly Ridge
Sights & Sites
Holly Ridge Cemetery – Holly Ridge Road (Sunflower Co.); where Charley Patton buried; John Fogerty re-installed tombstone in 1990; road to Holly Ridge intersects Highway 82 about half-way between Leland and Indianola (easy to miss little road), 1 mile from Highway 82 to “T” intersection in Holly Ridge; about 100 yards before intersection, cross railroad; stop at “T” intersection, then turn left (west) and go about .25 mile; on left is huge, tan-colored cotton gin, cemetery lying beside and just past cotton gin; walk to cemetery’s read (toward railroad tracks) and will find Charley Patton’s grave.

Club Ebony – 404 Hannah Street; 662-887-2264;; historic blues club from 1948 where Ray Charles, Count Basie, and B.B. King, among others, headlined; good place for burger; live jazz on Saturdays.
Po’ Monkey’s – off Highway 61 (near Merigold, 45 minutes northwest of Indianola); 662-748-2254; classic juke joint; looks like will blow down but has looked that way since 1950s; owned by Willie “Po’ Monkey” Seaberry; R&B every Thursday night.
Sights & Sites
B.B. King Museum & Delta Interpretive Center – 400 2nd Street; 662-887-9539;; tour ends in guitar studio.

Ahern’s Belle of Bends – 508 Klein Street; 601-634-0737;; sits atop bluff overlooking Mississippi River; among Mississippi’s best preserved historical homes.
Rusty’s River Front Grill – 901 Washington Street; 601-638-2030;
Walnut Hills – 1214 Adams Street; 601-638-4910;; must-visit, Southern cooking restaurant.
Sights & Sites
Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum – 1107 South Washington Street; 601-638-6514;
Vicksburg Battlefield Museum & National Park – 4139 North Frontage Road (museum) or 3201 Clay Street (national park); 601-638-6500 (museum) or 601-636-0583; (museum) or (national park).

Sights & Sites
Highway 61 Blues Museum – 307 North Broad Street; 662-686-7646;

Saturday, October 22, 2011


Amankora Bumthang – Jakar; 011-975-8-272-333;; in Bumthang Valley's center, adjacent to Wandichholing Palace; accessed through impressive stone-clad hallway; 16 suites in 4 separate dwellings, each featuring traditional bukhari (wood-burning stove), king-size bed, terrazzo-clad bath, shower, twin vanities, and daybed; dining room provides Western and special Bumthang-inspired, Bhutanese set menu; library; internet station, as well as wireless access for laptops; cozy spa with 3 treatment rooms, steam room, and changing areas.

Sights & Sites
Tamshing Lhakhang –; dark, atmospheric temple; built in 1501.
Wandichholing Palace – Jakar; extensive palace built in 1857 on battle camp site; Bhutan's 1st palace not designed as fortress; King Ugyen Wangchuck (Bhutan's 1st king) chose as principal residence; Wangdichholing inherited by Ashi Choeki Wangchuck, present king's aunt; grand but rather neglected building now used as lobdra (younger novice school); 5 giant prayer wheels inside square chortens just to north.

Amankora Gangtey – 011-975-8-272-333;; in Phobjikha Valley, among Bhutan’s most important wildlife reserves (valley home each winter to endangered black-neck crane); 8 suites, each offering open-plan bedroom and bathing area; living room overlooks valley and Gangtey Goemba Monastery; family style dining experience, Western and Bhutanese food; small spa.

Sights & Sites
Gangtey Goemba – 16th Century monastery.

Amankora Paro – 011-975-8-272-333;; 30 minutes from international airport; on clear mornings, uninterrupted Mount Jumolhari view; in lime-washed, stone pavilion; 24 suites with king-size beds, traditional bukharis, and large terrazzo-clad baths; dining and living rooms have incredible views and Western and Indian food; boutique next door provides local fabrics and goods; library; spa with hot stone baths, changing rooms and glass-walled yoga suite.
Uma Paro – 011-975-8-271-597;; luxurious boutique; great onsite restaurant.

Sights & Sites
Druykel Dzong –; 17th Century ruins; fortress and Buddhist monastery, now in ruins, located in Paro Valley's upper part; probably built by Tenzin Drukdra in 1649 at Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal's behest (to commemorate victory over invasion from Tibet), in early 1950s, almost completely destroyed by fire.
Taktsang Monastery – 3K' above valley floor.

Amankora Punakha – 011-975-8-272-333;; accessed by crossing suspension bridge over Mo Chhu River; centered by traditional Bhutanese farmhouse built by former Je Kempo (Bhutan Chief Abbot); 8 suites in 3 rammed earth dwellings; each includes traditional bukhari, king-size bed, terrazzo-clad bath, and daybed; suites are individually heated during cooler winter months and air-conditioned in summer; in dining room, both Western and Bhutanese cuisine served; 1st floor features living room and library, as well as an internet connection; also features traditional altar room for meditation and prayer; courtyard for alfresco dining and tea pavilion; spa.

Sights & Sites
Chimi Lhakhang – Sopsokha (Lobesa); Buddhist monastery since 1499.
Punakha Dzong – among Bhutan’s most impressive monastery fortresses; means "Great Happiness (or bliss) Palace"; constructed by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1637-38; Bhutan's 2nd largest and oldest dzong; houses southern Drukpa Kagyu school's sacred relics, including Rangjung Kasarpani and Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal's and Terton Padma Lingpa's remains.

Amankora Thimphu – 011-975-8-272-333;; in Motithang area's upper reaches; 2 dwellings house 16 suites that provide views across landscaped courtyard or directly onto nearby stream and pine forest; each room features king-size bed, bukhari, and terrazzo-clad bath; suites are individually heated during cold winter months; living and dining rooms feature soaring ceilings and outdoor dining deck with nearby stream and surrounding forest views; menu features both Western and Thai cuisine served in relaxing atmosphere; library; boutique offers Bhutanese textiles, Himalayan art, and jewelry; spa.
Taj Tashi – Samtem Lam (Chubachu); 011-975-233-6699;; blend of Bhutan’s dzong architecture and modern design; adorned with classical hand-drawn Buddhist murals; 66 elegant rooms; breathtaking mountain views.

Sights & Sites
Pangri Zampa Monastery – 20 minutes outside Thimphu; 2 16th Century buildings that house monastery at which can have astrological charts prepared.

Wednesday, October 19, 2011


Makati City
Travel Café – Greenbelt 5, 2nd Floor (Mall of Asia); 011-63-2-729-3366;; try alamid coffee, beans having passed through civet cat’s digestive tract.

Figaro Cafe – P. Ocampo Sr. Street (Coconut Palace); 011-63-2-833-7595;; chain; barako coffee, grown only in Philippines; beans are also sold in take-home packs.

Hobbit House – 1212 Arquiza Trade Center, Marcelo H. del Pilar; 011-63-2-521-7604; proudly run by “world’s smallest waiters”; more than 150 kinds of beer and cider; Manila institution.

Makati City
Capone’s Bar – Valero Street, (Ponte Salcedo); “indie” music bar locale.
Museum Cafe – Makati Avenue, Greenbelt 4 (corner de la Rosa Street, at Ayala Museum); 011-63-2-757-3000;; sleek bar that looks on to Greenbelt complex’ lush gardens (until 3 am on weekends).
SaGuijo Café & Bar – 7612 Guijo Street (San Antonio Village); 011-63-2-897-8629;; encourages indie and rock musicians.
Salong de Ning – Makati Avenue (corner Ayala Avenue, at Peninsula Hotel); 011-63-2-887-2888;; Art Deco, 1930s Asian vibe.

Library Comedy Bar & Restaurant – 1739 Maria Orosa Street; 011-63-2-522-2484;; mixes campy live music and karaoke.

Sunset Bar – CCP Complex, Roxas Boulevard (at Sofitel Philippine Plaza); 011-63-2-551-5555;; long, white lounges and beanbags on grass by ocean; pretty at sunset.

Encore SuperClub & Suite Lounge – 26th Street (at 5th Avenue, Unit D, Fort Entertainment Center); 011-63-2 816-4195; Manila’s top spot; heats up from midnight; it’s jammed with celeb and expat clubbers, so dress up.
Establishment – 26th Street (at 5th Avenue, Unit D, Fort Entertainment Center); 011-63-2-844-6364; gay-friendly, sleek bar with fabulous service, generous cocktails, and patrons who love to dance.

Makati City
Makati Shangri-La – Ayala Avenue (corner Makati Avenue); 011-63-2-813-8888;; 699-room giant, all lush chandeliers and 6 pm checkouts.
Mandarin Oriental – Makati Avenue; 011-63-2-887-2888;; Tin Hau Chinese restaurant and spa that specializes in indigenous treatments dating from 5th Century.
New World Hotel – Esperanza Street (Ayala Center, opposite Greenbelt shopping complex); 011-63-2-811-6888;; 598 rooms.
Peninsula – Makati Avenue (corner Ayala Avenue); 011-63-2-887-2888;; all-day-dining restaurant has pool views.
Picasso Boutique Serviced Residences – 119 L. P. Leviste Street (Salcedo Village); 011-63-2-828-4774;; each room different color, with artworks throughout this Cubist-inspired hotel.

Panciteria Lido – 593 T. Alonso Street; 011-63-2-733-5260; among Manila’s oldest restaurants (dating back to 1930s); Chinese-Filipino fusion; has old world charm and affordable prices; great dumplings, noodles, steamed prawns, and iced coffee.

Makati City
Le Bistro Vert – Valero Street (Fraser Place, Salcedo Village); 011-63-2-403-1841;; order tamarind iced tea and Palawan cashew and herb-crusted sole fillet; gorgeous, sustainable food.
Tin Hau – Makati Avenue (at Mandarin Oriental); 011-63-2-887-2888;; dim sum hot spot.
Tivoli – Makati Avenue (at Mandarin Oriental); 011-63-2-887-2888;; grand French restaurant; chef trained under Paul Bocuse.

Bistro Remedios – 1911 M. Adriatico Street (Remedios Circle); 011-63-2-523-9153; for Pinoy home cooking and small band to serenade you; try tiny, crispy, deep-fried crabs.

San Miguel
La Cocina de Tita Moning – 315 San Rafael Street; 011-63-2-734-2146;; set in gorgeously restored house, serves heirloom recipes such as whole baked lapu-lapu (local fish) or slow-roasted pork (lechon) with candied camote (sweet potato).

Pasig City
Café Juanita – United Street (Kapitolyo); 011-63-2-632-0357; it’s riotous, with twinkling fairy lights, multicolored lanterns, and billowing, gaudy drapes; home-cooked Filipino classics; try pork adobo and/or pasta with crab fat.

Goose Station – W Tower, 1117 39th Street; 011-63-2-556-9608;; sounds like “degustation,” giving hint as to what chef duo Robert and Sunshine Pengson serve; take time for deeply involved set menu.

Bale Dutung – Paul Street (corner Francis Street, Villa Gloria Subdivision, Angeles City, Pampanga); 011-63-45-888-5163 or 011-63-2-668-4038;; accomplished artist, chef (by reservation only, for parties of 10 or more), and writer (about Filipino food); lives 2 hours from Manila.
IvanHenares.Com –;; best travel blog around re Manila; contact him for personal assistance; he is Trustee of Heritage Conservation Society and very knowledgable about both Filipino food and history.
Old Manila Walks – 011-63-2-711-3823;; ask for Ivan Man Dy.

Legazpi Sunday Market – Legazpi Car Park, Legazpi Street (corner Herrera Street); where vendors prepare traditional Pinoy food and desserts, from cuttlefish lollipops to caribou milk ice-cream and handmade cheeses (7 am-2 pm on Sundays).
Salcedo Community Market – Salcedo Street; lush foodie place ideal for adventurous snackers; 7 am-2 pm Saturdays.

Museum of Filipino People – P. Burgos Drive (Rizal Park); 011-63-2-527-1209;; city’s largest museum.

Fort Santiago – General Luna Street; 011-63-2-527-1572; 400 year-old reminder of Manila heritage; guarding Pasig River, former Spanish military power seat; designated Shrine of Freedom in 1950, today it is Dr. José Rizal memorial (imprisoned here before execution in 1896 for inciting revolution against Spanish colonials) as well as memorial to all Filipinos who have fought or died for freedom.
San Agustin Church – General Luna Church; 011-63-2-527-2746;; UNESCO-listed; built in 1587; last building standing in Intramuros when US troops liberated Philippines from Japanese in 1945.

Makati City
Ayala Museum – Makati Avenue, Greenbelt 4 (corner de la Rosa Street, at Ayala Museum); 011-63-2-757-7117;; must-visit for its display of pre-colonial (16th Century) gold, from funereal masks to diadems; closed on Mondays.
Makati Coliseum – 31 Mascardo Street (La Paz); 011-63-2-895-6482; cockfighting, upon occasion.

Baclaran Street – open-air street, with outdoor stalls selling bags, clothes, and sunglasses; Wednesdays are maniacal, owing to nearby popular church.

Coconut Palace – CCP Complex, Roxas Boulevard; 011-63-2-832-0223; 80% made of coconut wood;; built in 1978 by then-president Ferdinand Marcos; built in traditional salakot style (closed Mondays).

Quiapo Bridge – Taft Avenue leads into bridge; area under bridge is packed with mad apothecary stalls selling amulets and bizarre oils; also, rattan baskets and cool light fittings, as well as seriously cheap souvenirs, such as shell lamps.
Quiapo Church – Plaza Miranda (at Quezon Boulevard); 011-63-2-733-4945;; life-sized and revered Black Nazarene (400 year-old Jesus carving) housed here (paraded through jammed streets on feast day, January 9, and Good Friday).

Tuesday, October 18, 2011


Sights & Sites
Kyushu National Museum – 4-7-2 Ishizaka; 011-81-92-918-2807;; 1 of 4 national museums and 1st new one in over 100 years; 1st to elevate focus on history over art; extremely high resolution video system, with latest image processing and color management software, serves both in documenting collection objects and in expanding access; striking glass and wood building in hills; hosts important collections Japanese artifacts, particularly ceramics, related to Kyūshū history.
Tenmangu Shrine – 4-7-1 Saifu; 011-81-92-922-8225;; Shinto shrine built over Sugawara no Michizane’s grave and among main shrines dedicated to Tenjin (Michizane’s deified form); spans over 3K acres and includes several structures; honden (main shrine) 1st built by Yasuyuki Umasake in 905 (2 years after Michizane’s death); Momoyama-style shrine visitors see today dates from 1591; grounds also contain bridge, 2 ponds, and treasure house; also known for its 6K ume (Asian plum) trees (167 varieties).

Bars & Nightclubs
Akatan – 1-13-12 Daimyo (Chuo-ku); 011-81-92-738-3253;; narrow standing bar; flat-stone floor, long wood counter, and bamboo, cloth-covered, low benches; real goldfish swim around floor’s perimeter (“Akatan” is rarely used term for ”goldfish”); shochu is most popular drink.
Bar Klug – 2-25 Nishinakasu, 2nd Floor (Chuo-ku); 011-81-92-725-7066; cavelike, elegant hideaway.
Akatan – 1-13-12 Daimyo (Chuo-ku); 011-81-92-738-3253;; narrow standing bar; flat-stone floor, long wood counter, and bamboo, cloth-covered, low benches; real goldfish swim around floor’s perimeter (“Akatan” is rarely used term for ”goldfish”); for bar food, try batter-coated, boiled taco (octopus) chunks spun into ball shapes with thin crispy skin and flavorsome, soft body; dip them in traditional tare (sweet sauce) or sprinkle on rock salt; other Japanese pub favorites include grilled fish, roasted ginan nuts, and nostalgic dishes like mugi-choco.
Cafe de H – 1-8-5 Imaizumi (Chuo-ku); 011-81-92-732-3167;; approach through greened courtyard, isolated from street hustle-bustle; Italian; lunch-dinner; gallery space.
Hakata Gyoza Yuushin – 2-7-7 Sumiyoshi (Hakata-ku); 011-81-92-282-3553;; near Hakata station; succulent gyoza.
Shin Shin – 3-2-19 Tenjin (Chuo-ku); 011-81-92-732-4006;; for Hakata ramen, for which city is famous.
Yakitori-Hachibei – 1-4-27 Kego (Chuo-ku); 011-81-92-732-5379;; everything good; standouts include sukiyaki-kushi (enoki mushrooms and spinach wrapped in sliced beef on skewers), which can dip in raw egg, and sasami-umenoshio (chicken breast lightly grilled, splashed with sake, then topped with plum paste); must try edomame croquette (deep-fried, lightly breaded, mashed green bean ball).
Curve – 2-5-4 Imaizumi (Chuo-ku); 011-81-92-732-7439; clothing.
Dice & Dice – 1-2-52 Daimyo (Chuo-ku, Imaizumi); 011-81-92-715-6650;; men’s and women’s clothing boutique.
Florent – 1-21-5 Imaizumi (Chuo-ku); 011-81-92-725-1450;; men’s and women’s clothing.
Naif – 2-5-4 Imaizumi (Chuo-ku); 011-81-92-714-0274; clothing.
Double OO 9 – 1-3-6 Flaps (Imaizumi); 011-81-92-725-4900;; minimalist clothing boutique, worth visiting for architectural design alone.
Sights & Sites
Fukuoka Art Museum – 1-6 Ohorikoen (Chuo-ku); 011-81-92-714-6051;
Fukuoka Asian Art Museum – Riverain Center Building, 3-1 Shimokawabata-machi, 7th & 8th Floors (Hakata-ku); 011-81-92-263-1100;; unlike Fukuoka Art Museum, this museum only encompasses contemporary and modern Asian art.
Fukuoka (Maizuru) Castle – Jonai (Chuo-ku, in Maizuru Park); 011-81-92-781-2153;; completed in early Edo period for tozama daimyo Kuroda Nagamasa; used from 1601 to 1871.
Kawachi Fujien Gardens – 2-2-46 Kawachi (Yawatahigashi-ku, Kitakyushu); 011-81-93-652-0334;; go in May to see Wisterial Tunnel, arcades dripping with various hued wisteria; must make special trip; not to be missed.
Ohori Park – Ohori Koen (Chuo-ku); or; registered Place of Scenic Beauty; name means “trench” and derives from fact that former Fukuoka lord reclaimed land (called Kusagae, which faces Hakata Bay) and made trench for Fukuoka Castle; among Japan’s most beautiful water parks; fireworks festival held here in summer.

Din Tai Fung – 6-1 Tetori-cho (7F Tsuruya Department Store); 011-81-96-211-0667;; excellent café chain that elevates street food into something elegant; try xiaolong bao (soup dumplings).

Sunday, October 16, 2011


EL DORADO & PLACER COUNTIES (includes Olympic Valley & Truckee)
Olympic Valley
PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn – 1920 Squaw Valley Road (on Lake Tahoe); 530-583-1576 or 800-323-7666;

South Lake Tahoe
Basecamp Hotel – 4143 Cedar Avenue; 530-208-0180;; 50-room, formerly grim, now retro-cool hotel; lobby is perfect apres-ski hangout; rooftop hot tub has mountain views; located close to Heavenly Gondola.
Kalani’s – 1001 Heavenly Village Way; 530-544-6100;; creative; try miso sea bass.

Truckee (includes Homewood, South Lake Tahoe & Tahoe City)
Cedar House Sport Hotel – 10918 Brockway Road (Truckee); 530-582-5655 or 866-582-5655;; American “green” ethos meets European hospitality.
Cottage Inn – 1690 West Lake Boulevard (Tahoe City); 530-581-4073 or 800-581-4073;; WPA-style accommodations near lake.
968 Park Hotel – 968 Park Avenue (South Lake Tahoe); 530-544-0968 or 877-544-0968;; eco hotel; stylish.
West Shore Inn – 5160 West Lake Boulevard (Homewood); 530-525-5200 or 877-263-7768; westshorecafe; small restaurant on lake’s tony west side that also rents 2 single guest rooms and 4 2-bedroom units.
Jake’s on Lake – 780 North Lake Boulevard (Tahoe City); 530-583-0188;; family dining and great people watching.
Moody’s Bistro & Lounge – 10007 Bridge Street (Truckee); 530-587-8688;; sustainable California cuisine.
Squeeze – 10060 Donner Pass Road (Truckee); 530-587-9814;; 62 omelets and long lines.
West Shore Café – 5160 West Lake Boulevard (Homewood); 530-525-5200;; best restaurant on lake.
Granite Chief – 11368 Donner Pass Road (Truckee); 530-587-2908;; hiking and skiing equipment.
Jordan’s at Truckee Mercantile – 10052 Donner Pass Road (Truckee); 530-582-1252; designer labels.
Pharmacy – 10072 Donner Pass Road (Truckee); 530-582-1668; high-end bath and beauty products.
Sights & Sites
Donner Memorial State Park – 12593 Donner Pass Road (Truckee); 530-582-7894 or 800-444-7275;
Truckee River Raft Co. – 185 River Road/Highway 89 (Tahoe City); 530-583-0123;
Vikingsholm – Emerald Bay; 530-525-7232; grand home open to public.

Death Valley National Park
Amargosa Hotel – 608 Death Valley Junction (Death Valley Junction); 760-852-4441;; historic, somewhat crank, spot; Red Skelton stayed her on 4 different occasions.
Furnace Creek Inn – Highway 190; 760-786-2345 or 800-236-7916;; higher end; nestled against Funeral Mountains and overlooking desert salt pans and Panamint Mountains; 66 classically decorated rooms; fine dining; spring-fed swimming pool; gift shop; massage therapy; oasis garden laden with towering palm trees and meandering streams; all rooms recently redecorated, some with decks or terraces; some with spa tubs; slightly larger rooms in North Wing; pool bungalows.
Furnace Creek Ranch – Highway 190; 760-786-2345 or 800-236-7916;; originally working ranch in 1880s; 224 guest unit motel; 3 restaurants, saloon, and general store, and “Borax Museum”; spring-fed swimming pool; cabin units in single story duplex buildings; standard rooms in 4 2-story buildings, all with French doors leading to balconies or small patios; deluxe rooms in 2 1-story buildings, each with French doors leading to small patios adjacent to park-pool area (limited number have 1 king bed).
Amargosa Cafe – 608 Death Valley Junction (Death Valley Junction); 760-852-4441;; historic, somewhat crank, spot.
Sights & Sites
Amargosa Opera House – 608 Death Valley Junction (Death Valley Junction); 760-852-4441;; historic, somewhat crank, spot; since 1960s, owner, Marta Becket, has performed dance and mime for Sunday audiences, often with no one present.
Badwater Basin – Badwater Road (19 miles south of Furnace Creek); 760-786-3200;; lowest point in America, at 282' below sea level.
Scotty’s Castle (Death Valley Ranch) – 123 Scotty’s Castle Road (Grapevine Canyon); 760-786-2392;; green oasis in far northern Death Valley; window into Roaring 20s and Depression 30s; engineer’s dream home, wealthy matron’s vacation home, and man-of-mystery’s getaway and hideout; Walter ("Death Valley Scotty") Scott convinced everyone he built it with money from his rich, secret area mines; Albert Mussey Johnson actually built house as vacation spot for self and wife; tours.
Ubehebe Crater – Death Valley National Park (Death Valley Junction); 760-786-2331;; large volcanic crater 600' deep and .5 mile across.

Fish Camp
Tenaya Lodge – 1122 Highway 41; 559-514-2167 or 888-514-2167;; unbelievably beautiful.

Evergreen Lodge at Yosemite – 33160 Evergreen Road; 209-379-2606 or 800-935-6343;

Mammoth Lakes
Bars & Nightclubs
Gomez’s – 100 Canyon Boulevard; 760-924-2693;; Mexican food with over 200 tequilas and large margaritas.
Hyde Lounge – 6201 Minaret Road; 760-934-0669;; lives up to Sunset Boulevard predecessor; bottle-service-only booths, lasers, door policy, and pricy cocktails.
Mammoth Brewing Co. – 94 Berner Street; 760-934-7141;; warehouse converted into beer-tasting room.
Mammoth Mountain Inn – 10001 Minaret Road; 760-934-2581 or 866-466-7000;; offers snow-cat transport to Parallax Restaurant.
Sierra Nevada Lodge – 164 Old Mammoth Road; 760-934-2515 or 800-824-5132;; rustic lobby recently renovated (includes Clark Gable’s baby grand); 150 units; ask for room with wood-burning stove; has ice-skating rink.
Tamarack Lodge & Resort – off Route 203 (Twin Lakes and Lake Mary Roads); 760-934-2442 or 800-626-6684;; LEED-certified 3-bedroom with all modern amenities, as well as barebones studios.
Gomez’s – 100 Canyon Boulevard; 760-924-2693;; Mexican food.
Lakefront R Restaurant – off Route 203 (Twin Lakes and Lake Mary Roads, at Tamarack Lodge & Resort); 760-934-2442;; wild game dishes and excellent wine list; area’s best chef.
Mill Café – 1 Minaret Road (at Chair 2 base); 760-934-0675; festive après-ski spot; try pulled pork nachos.
Parallax – McCoy Station (mid-mountain gondola station, up from Main Lodge); 760-934-2571;; modern décor and Asian-themed trimmings; would not look out of place in downtown Manhattan (white bark walls); reachable only by Snow-cat from Mammoth Mountain Inn; dishes range from New Zealand lamb to grilled chicken with risotto.
Shea Schat’s Bakery – 3305 Main Street; 760-934-6055; feels and smells like gingerbread house; try steaming hot chocolate and pastry (cinnamon nut bread, ginger cake, bread pudding).
Stove – 644 Old Mammoth Road; 760-934-2821; cozy spot, especially for earl breakfast; long wooden booths and old pictures of cattle ranchers on walls; open over 40 years; homemade pies are great.
Yodler – 10001 Minaret Road; 760-934-2571; Swiss-style chalet off Main Lodge; try heaping fish taco and/or nacho plates.
Black Tie Ski Rentals – 435 Commerce Circle; 760-934-7009;
Double Eagle Spa – 51 Club Drive; 760-934-8511;; earthy massage rooms, Vichy showers, and yoga studio.
Vern Clevenger’s Gallery – 220 Sierra Manor Road; 760-934-5100;; beautiful color photographs; modern-day Ansel Adams.
Sights & Sites
Hilltop Hot Spring – 5 miles east of Mammoth Lakes; can cross road to Wild Willy’s, more secluded spring, which requires 20-minute trek and snow-shoes.

Chateau du Sureau – 48688 Victoria Lane; 406-862-8190 or 866-875-8456;; 16 miles south of Yosemite National Park; European-style estate home; excellent restaurant; on private grounds with walking paths.

Yosemite National Park
Hetch Hetchy –
Ahwahnee Hotel – 1 Ahwahnee Drive; 801-559-4884 or 866-875-8456;; Premier Lodge classification from National Park Reservations; striking granite facade, magnificent log-beamed ceilings, massive stone hearths, richly colored Native American artwork & finely appointed rooms; in main valley inside park, near Half Dome & Glacier Point base; built in 1927; public spaces feature giant stone fireplaces, massive hand-stenciled beams, rich tapestries & elegant stained glass; of 123 guest rooms, 99 in main building; book “Featured Room,” similar to “Classic Room,” but has balcony; Rooms 444 & 450 share deck.

Mono Lake (includes Lee Vining & Lone Pine)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Latte Da Coffee Café – 51 US Highway 395 (Lee Vining); 760-647-6310;
El Mono Motel 2013 – 51 US Highway 395 (Lee Vining); 760-647-6310;
Lake View Lodge – 51285 Highway 395 (Lee Vining); 760-647-6543 or 800-990-6614;
Tioga Pass Resort – 85 Highway 120 West (Lee Vining, 1 mile east of Tioga Pass summit); no telephone at all;
Sights & Sites
Inyo National Forest – Whitney Portal Road (Lone Pine); 760-876-6219;; US National Forest covering eastern Sierra Nevada & White Mountains portions; includes: Mount Whitney, highest point in contiguous United States; Boundary Peak, highest point in Nevada; and Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, which protects oldest trees in world.
Saddlebag Lake Resort – Saddlebag Lake Road (Lee Vining); 209-545-0946;; 1 of few fishing areas where can catch “High Sierra Fishing Slam”: Brooke, Brown, Golden & Rainbow Trout caught in same day.

Sights &Sites
Cosumnes River Preserve – 13501 Franklin Boulevard; 916-491-1820;; 46K acre nature preserve located 20 miles south of Sacramento; protects Central Valley remnant that once contained among largest expanses of oak tree savanna, riparian oak forest and wetland habitat in North America; Cosumnes River is last remaining free-flowing river in California’s Central Valley; diverse range animal & plant life; sandhill crane fall migration.

Squeeze Inn – 5301 Power Inn Road (other locations); 916-386-8599;; hamburgers; popular with somewhat cult-like following.
Sights &Sites
California State Railroad Museum – 125 I Street; 916-445-7387;; interprets railroad role in connecting California to rest of nation; features 21 restored locomotives & railroad cars, some dating back to 1862; between April-October, Sacramento Southern Railroad, operated by museum, takes passengers on 40-minute, 6-mile roundtrip route along Sacramento River on portion of Walnut Grove branch of former Southern Pacific Railroad; make sure to see painting called Last Spike.

Newberry Springs
Baghdad Café – 46548 National Trails Highway; 760-257-3101; Bagdad Cafe, movie centering on old Route 66, filmed in Newberry Springs area; this Bagdad Cafe is not original (located in Bagdad, between Amboy and Ludlow on old Route 66, nothing of which remains); Newberry Springs cafe is Route 66 survivor, though, once known as Sidewinder Café; after movie was filmed here, name just stuck; serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Halfway House Café – 15564 Sierra Highway (in Canyon Country); 661-251-0102;; 1930s roadhouse.
Trails Drive-In – 84520 Trona Road; 760-372-5803; roadside café.
Sights & Sites
Old Guest House Museum – 13193 Main Street;; run by Searles Valley Historical Society; commemorates early days of borax mines, magnesium monorail, and American Potash & Chemical Corp.
Trona Pinnacles – Route 178 (35 miles west of Death Valley’s Wildrose entrance); geographical landmarks, more than bizarre enough to make special trip.

Paso Robles (includes Atascadero, Los Alamos, Santa Margarita & Templeton)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Negranti Dairy – 975 Jensen Road (Paso Robles); 805-801-3847;; by appointment only; sheeps’ milk products.
Bars & Nightclubs
15c Wine Shop & Bar – 1121 Rossi Road (Templeton); 805-434-1554;; small plates, too.
Comus House – 5414 Vineyard Drive (Paso Robles); 805-239-4287;; 4 rooms (more like cabins); breakfast; modern.
Hammersky Vineyards & Inn – 7725 Vineyard Drive (Paso Robles); 949-338-7813;; built in 1904; 4-room inn on 50 acre property; upstairs claw-foot tub peers out over vines.
Just Inn – 11680 Chimney Rock Road (Paso Robles); 805-238-6932 or 800-726-0049;; 4-room inn on esteemed vineyard in Adelaide Valley; stone fireplaces and tapestry curtains give formal feel.
Inn Paradiso – 975 Mojave Lane (Paso Robles); 805-239-2800;; quaint property; only 3 master suites; must see to fully understand; each room boasts fine linens, fireplaces, travertine baths, etc.; includes full breakfast for 2 each morning, consisting of fresh-squeezed juices, fresh fruits, homemade breads and entrée; located on quiet hillside, short drive southeast of town with flowers, oaks, and spectacular views.
Venteux Vineyards Bed & Breakfast – 1795 Las Tablas Road (Templeton); 805-369-0127;; set on 22 acres; 2 rustic guest rooms or can book barn with wraparound porch; breakfast.
Artisan – 1401 Park Street, #105 (Paso Roble); 805-237-8084;; trail-blazing, farm-to-table cuisine.
Bell Street Farm – 406 Bell Street (Los Alamos); 805-344-4609;; take-away lunch sandwiches that you can eat on back patio.
Il Cortile – 608 12th Street, #101 (Paso Robles); 805-226-0300;; Italian.
Farmstand 46 – 3750 California 46 (Templeton); 805-239-3661;; gourmet, healthy food made from estate-grown, organic herbs and vegetables.
Full of Life Flatbread – 225 Bell Street (Los Alamos); 805-344-4400;; pizza.
Range – 22317 El Camino Real (Atascadero); 805-438-4500; cash-only and no reservations; diminutive; ingredient-driven, decidedly meat-centric, but vegetarian dishes such as wild mushroom ravioli; everything possible made in-house, from fresh-baked breads to start your meal to salad dressings and desserts such as Meyer lemon pound cake or Kahlúa pots de crème; reasonably priced wine list.
Thomas Hill Organics – 1305 Park Street (Paso Robles); 805-226-5888;; bistro sources from owners’ 10-acre farm.
Bell Street Farm – 406 Bell Street (Los Alamos); 805-344-4609;; take-away lunch sandwiches.
Central Coast Lavender – 6630 North Star Lane (Paso Robles); 805-467-3500;; lavender products include cookies and lemonade.
15c Wine Shop & Bar – 1121 Rossi Road (Templeton); 805-434-1554;
Happy Acres Family Farm – 1955 Templeton Road (Templeton); 805-434-7580;; goat cheese products, edible to lotion to soap.
Limerock Orchards – 6996 Peachy Canyon Road (Paso Robles); 805-238-6887;; walnut products, from candy to pesto.
Pasolivo – 8530 Vineyard Drive (Paso Robles); 805-227-0186;; olive oil products; tangerine-infused olive oil is “must.”
Rinconada Dairy – 4680 West Pozo Road (Santa Margarita); 805-438-5667;; sheeps’ milk products.

San Luis Obispo
Granada – 1126 Morro Street; 805-544-9100;; luxury boutique; 17 rooms; housed in 1920s brick building in downtown’s heart; restaurant and terrace bar.
Sycamore Springs Resort & Spa – 1215 Avila Beach Drive; 805-595-7302 or 800-234-5831;
Koberl at Blue – 998 Monterey Street; 805-783-1135;
Luna Red – 1023 Chorros Street; 805-540-5243;; Asian and Spanish tapas; brunch.
Meze – 1880 Santa Barbara Avenue; 805-548-8070;; market cafe.
Atmodsphere – 1119 Chorro Street; 805-594-1119;; modern home furnishings.
Meze – 1880 Santa Barbara Avenue; 805-548-8070;; market cafe; good for picnic supplies.
Sights & Sites
Jack House & Gardens – 536 Marsh Street; 805-781-7308;; Victorian home open to public.
Sycamore Springs Resort & Spa – 1215 Avila Beach Drive; 805-595-7302;

Sights & Sites
Harley Farms Goat Dairy – 205 North Street; 650-879-0480;; restored 1910 dairy farm, with 200 alpine goats on 9 pastured acres; Harley Farms chevre, fromage blanc, ricotta, and feta cheeses are consistent winners at American Cheese Society awards; open year-round for farm and dairy tours, cheesemaking classes, and events in restored hayloft; visitors see working farm, and watch milk move from goat to dairy, from curd to cheese.

Portola Valley
Sights & Sights
Jasper Ridge Biological Preserve – 4001 Sand Hill Road (Woodside); 650-851-6813;; secret, 1.2K-acre wilderness surrounded by Silicon Valley sprawl.

San Gregorio
San Gregorio General Store – Highway 84 & Stage Road; 650-726-0565;

Boulder Creek
Gallery Viscosity – 13158 Central Avenue; 206-669-1955;; Chilhuly-like blown glass; worth detour.

Corralitos (includes Watsonville)
Corralitos Market & Sausage Co. – 569 Corralitos Road (Watsonville); 831-722-2633; worth detour.

Santa Cruz
Sights & Sites
Wilder Ranch State Park – 1401 Coast Road; 831-426-0505;; explore California’s early ranching history by visiting 1897 Victorian home, or experience 1896 water-powered machine shop; bring picnic to enjoy on front lawn & visit farm animals; more than 35 trail miles; both into Santa Cruz Mountains & along coastal bluffs.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011


(includes Bantam, Cornwall, Goshen, Kent, Litchfield, Morris, New Milford, Washington & Woodbury)

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Arethusa Farm Dairy Ice Cream – 822 Bantam Road; 860-361-6600;; excellent ice cream in waffle cones.
Bantam Bread Co. – 853 Bantam Road; 860-567-2737; excellent.
Patty’s – 499 Bantam Road; 860-567-3335; most items under $10; breakfast and lunch only; roadside eatery outside Litchfield town center; the local place for apple-sausage omelets, sweet potato pancakes, and sausage and gravy over buttermilk biscuits; counter with stools, tables with chairs dating around Truman’s election; lemon coffee-cake French toast is stand-out.

CORNWALL (includes Cornwall Bridge & West Cornwall)
Clarke Outdoors – 163 Route 7 (West Cornwall); 860-672-6365;; kayak and rafting trips.
Sights & Sites
Sculpturedale – 3 Carter Road (Cornwall Bridge, at State Route 7); 860-927-3420;; sculpture garden open for looking although pieces are for sale.
West Cornwall Covered Bridge – Goshen-Sharon Turnpike, Connecticut State Route 128 (West Cornwall); over Housatonic River; picturesque.

Mary Stuart House – 160 Sharon Turnpike; 860-491-2260;; dates to 1798; affordable and homey.
AJ’s Steak & Pizza – 61 Sharon Turnpike; 860-491-4733; biker-y bar with excellent burgers and big screen tv showing sports.

Inn at Kent Falls – 107 Kent Cornwall Road; 860-927-3197;; any of suites is good choice.
Villager Restaurant – 28 North Main Street; 860-927-1555;; made for frugal travelers; burgers and Reubens; Mexican food on Tuesday nights.
Foreign Cargo Gallery – 17 North Main Street; 860-927-3900;; exotic items from all over.
Heron American Craft Gallery – 16 North Main Street; 860-927-4804;; fanciful works and quirky gifts.
Sights & Sites
Kent Falls State Park – 462 Kent Cornwall Road; 860-927-3029;; easy hiking trails, manicured grounds; pretty falls.
Main Street – several historic churches and old shops; also, animal sculptures scattered around town center; local artist galleries in vicinity.

Da Capo Restaurant – 625 Torrington Road; 860-482-6246;; affordable Italian food.
Sights & Sites
White Memorial Conservation Center – 80 Whitehall Road; 860-567-0857;; provides hiking maps for over 4K acres in Litchfield County; try Little Pond route (1.2 miles over boardwalk).

Winvian – 155 Alain White Road (in Litchfield); 860-567-9600;; extravagant experiment in 1-of-kind cottage accommodation near Litchfield; 18 cottages and 1 suite on 113 acre property; Italian cuisine; rates exclude treatments at Winvian Spa; 5' sq facility (including co-ed Physiotherm sauna that combines heat and color therapy) and noteworthy treatments.

Clamp’s Hamburger Stand – Route 202; hamburgers.

Mayflower Grace Inn & Spa – 118 Woodbury Road; 860-868-9466 or 888-826-4255;; lovely; less than 2 hours from New York City; shabby-chic but massively expensive.
Mayflower Grace Inn & Spa – 118 Woodbury Road; 860-868-9466;; lovely; less than 2 hours from New York City; spa-cult favorite; ask for Thai massage; spring is best time to go to enjoy lush foliage.

Mayflower Inn – 118 Woodbury Road; 860-868-9466 or 800-735-2478;; set on 28 acres rolling countryside; 25-room inn is Relais & Chateaux property.
Good News Café – 694 Main Street South; 203-266-4663; good-news-café.com; mostly local, organic produce supports sophisticated menu; desserts continued best in state.
Charles & Rebekah Clark – 35 Main Street North; 203-263-7004;; by appointment only; antiques.
Harold Cole Antiques – Main Street Antiques Center, 113 Main Street South; 203-263-0046.
David Dunton – Route 132 (off Route 47, 2nd house on left); 203-263-5355;; antiques; open Thursday and Sunday from 1-5, Friday and Saturday from 11-5.
Joel Einhorn Antiques – 452 Main Street South; 203-266-9090; antiques.
Tucker Frey Antiques – 451 Main Street South; 203-263-5404; does not keep regular hours.
Wayne Pratt, Inc. – 346 Main Street South and 558 Main Street South; 203-263-5676;
David A. Schorsch American Antiques, Inc. – 244 Main Street South; 203-263-3131; antiques.
Thomas Schwenke, Inc. Antiques – 50 Main Street North; 203-266-0303;