Tuesday, October 25, 2011

QUEBEC CITY

(includes Lac-Beauport, St.-Ferreol-les-Neiges, Ste.-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier, and Stoneham-Tewkesbury)

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
La Barberie – 310 Rue St.-Roch (St.-Roch); 418-522-4373; labarberie.com; among city’s most beloved micro-breweries; outdoor patio.
Bar Le Sacrilege – 447 Rue St.-Jean (St.-Jean); 418-649-1985; lesacrilege.net; 13 local beers and cider.
Le Cercle – 228 Rue St.-Joseph Est; 418-948-8648; le-cercle.ca; wine bar with performance space at which arts (comedy, music, etc.) events held; small kitchen for late-night snacking.
La Cuisine – 205 Rue St.-Vallier Est; 418-523-3387; barlacuisine.com; outfitted like retro student’s university apartment.
Maurice Nightclub – 575 Grand-Allee Est; 418-647-2000; mauricenightclub.com.
Savini Resto-Bar Vinoteque – 680 Grand-Allee Est; 418-647-4747; savini.ca.



HOTELS
Auberge St.-Antoine – 8 St.-Antoine Street; 418-692-2211 or 888-692-2211; saint-antoine.com; built near Old Port; museum-like accommodations; sleek; excellent food.
Auberge Duchesnay – 140 Montee de l’Auberge (Ste.-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier); 418-875-2122; sepaq.com; 48 modern rooms overlooking Lake Ste.-Joseph; on-property biking, boating, and hiking.
Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac – 1 Rue de Carrieres; 418-692-3861 or 866-540-4460; fairmont.com; Guinness World Record for “most photographed hotel” in world; 1 of series of chateau-style hotels built for Canadian Pacific Railway company at 19th Century CE’s end and 20th Century CE’s beginning; opened in 1893; named after Louis de Buade, Frontenac Count who governed New France colony 1672-1682 and 1689-1698; built near Citadelle, whose construction Frontenac began at 17th Century CE’s end; 1943 Quebec Conference (Churchill and Roosevelt) held at Citadelle while staff stayed at Chateau Frontenac; hotel perched atop tall cape overlooking St. Lawrence River, giving spectacular view; used as filming location for Hitchcock’s I Confess, with Montgomery Clift and Ann Baxter.
Hotel D’Auteuil – 49 Rue d’Auteuil (Old Quebec); 418-694-1173; manoirdauteuil.com; thoroughly renovated pair of 19th Century, Art Deco manor houses opposite Old Town walls; set in Old Québec heart, across from Parliament Hill; 8 minutes’ walk from Québec City Convention Centre, Chateau Frontenac & Montmorency Park; supremely comfortable hotel replete with modern amenities; some rooms offer high ceilings, stone walls, fireplaces & canopy beds; Edith Piaf suite has ultra-spacious blue-tiled bath; two pretty, high-ceilinged breakfast rooms & outdoor terrace.
Hotel Dominion 1912 – 126 Rue St-Pierre; 418-692-2224 or 888-833-5253; hoteldominion.com; built near Old Port; city’s 1st skyscraper; elegant; breakfast only.
Manoir St.-Castin – 99 Chemin Tour-du-Lac (Lac-Beauport); 418-841-4000; hotelsvillegia.com; slightly down at heels but has good restaurant and is near Lake Beauport and Jacques-Cartier National Park.



RESTAURANTS
Bistrot B – 1144 Avenue Cartier; 418-614-5444; bistrob.ca; elegantly modern yet cheerfully communal superb design, food, and service; French.
Bistrot Le Clocher Penche – 203 Rue St.-Joseph Est (St.-Roch); 418-640-0597; clocherpenche.ca; good for breakfast.
Le Cercle – 228 Rue St.-Joseph Est; 418-948-8648; le-cercle.ca; wine bar with performance space at which arts (comedy, music, etc.) events held; small kitchen for late-night snacking.
Cafe Chez Temporel – 25 Rue Couillard (Old Quebec); 418-694-1813; classic French cafe of nearly 40 years; great for people-watching; hidden on side street; quiches, salads, and sandwiches.
Chez Ashton – 640 Grand-Allee Est; 418-522-3449; chez-ashton.com; late night poutine (French fries drowned in cheese curds and gravy).
L’Affaire est Ketchup – 46 Rue Saint-Joseph Est (St.-Roch); 418-529-9020; facebook.com/pg/laffaireest.ketchup/about/?ref=page_internal; expression, “l’affaire est ketchup,” unique to province & means “it’s all good” or “everything’s cool”; small (8 tables) & seriously homespun; try duck magret or scallops with celeriac purée from kitchen that makes Easy Bake Oven look like 6-burner Viking.
La Cuisine – 205 Rue St.-Vallier Est; 418-523-3387; barlacuisine.com; outfitted like retro student's university apartment with open kitchen; Quebecois comfort food.
Le Moine Echanson – 585 Rue St.-Jean (St.-Jean); 418-524-7832; lemoineechanson.com; elegant, seasonal, small plates menu.
Restaurant Panache – 10 Rue Saint Antoine; 418-692-1022; restaurantpanache.com; housed in former 19th-century warehouse; massive wood beams and rough stone walls; wrought-iron staircase winds up to 2nd dining level, creating secret attic feel with tables tucked into eves; flickering candles, center fireplace, velvet couches, generous space between tables, and good acoustics (not loud, not churchlike); cuisine Québécoise revisitée, French-Canadian cuisine with twist; tiny bar inside restaurant seats about 12; Café Artefact, separate lounge just off main lobby, provides casual pre-meal meeting spot.



SERVICES
Le Nordique – 747 Jacques-Cartier Nord (Stoneham-Tewkesbury); 418-848-7727; lenordique.com; evokes summer camp; uses river as cold plunge; wood-platform, screen-sided tents serve as seasonal treatment rooms.
Siberia Station Spa – 339 Boulevard du Lac (Lac-Beauport); 418-841-1325; siberiastationspa.com; nature immersion, with Jacuzzi series over terraces on steeply sloped Yellow River banks; steam room (eucalyptus-scented).
Tyst Tradgard – 35 Chemin de la Détente (Ste.-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier); 418-875-1645; tysttradgard.com; housed in tidy clapboard cottages on Lake Ste.-Joseph’s shores; more pampering and private than others.
Zonespa – 186 Rang St.-Julien (St.-Ferreol-les-Neiges); 418-826-1772; zonespa.com.



SHOPPING
Boutique Lucia F – 422 Rue Caron (St.-Roch); 418-648-9785; vintage clothing shop; affordable.
La Chambre Blanche – 185 Rue Christophe-Colomb Est (St.-Roch); 418-529-2715; chambreblanche.qc.ca; art collective that features current international resident artists’ efforts.
Choco-Musee Erico – 634 Rue St.-Jean (St.-Jean); 418-524-2122; chocomusee.com; try pecan and salted caramel-filled chocolates.
Librairie St.-Jean Baptiste – 565 Rue St.-Jean (St.-Jean); 581-999-0951; librairiesjb.com; 2nd-hand books.
Machin Chouette – 225 Rue St.-Paul (Old Port); 418-525-9898; machinchouette.com; antiques and modern arts objets d’art trove, including handmade one-of-kind items.
Morgan Bridge – 367 Rue du Pont (St.-Roch); 418-529-1682; morganbridge.ca; Montreal and Quebec city gallery; also, books, music, and t-shirts.



SIGHTS & SITES
Baie de Beauport – 1 Henri Bourassa; 418-266-0722; baiedebeauport.com; recreational park with kayaks, pedal boats, and sailboat rentals.
Grande-Allée Est – on Quebec Hill, parallel to St. Lawrence River, in La Cité-Limoilou & Sainte-Foy-Sillery-Cap-Rouge boroughs; quebecregion.com/en/quebec-city-and-area/grande-allee; Quebec City’s Champs-Elysees; known for restaurants & beautiful buildings; path runs along Parc de la Francophonie on the Grande Allée Est and Plains of Abraham & Parc du Bois-de-Coulonge on Grande Allée West; at fork in Saint-Louis road, Grande Allée extended by Laurier Boulevard to Quebec Bridge.
Le Marche du Vieux Port – 160 Quai St.-Andre (Old Port); 418-692-2517; marchevieuxport.com; sprawling market where chefs and tourists browse.
Old Quebec – city center; UNESCO World Heritage site; car-free streets, towering monuments, and 17th Century homes; head up staircase at corner Rue St.-Louis and Cote de la Citadelle and climb onto grassy fortification wall that encircles old city for best view; hop off at Rue St.-Jean.
St.-Jean-Baptiste Neighborhood – extends from Old Quebec into newer area, following Rue-St.-Jean; bars, boutiques, colorful buildings, and restaurants.
St.-Roch Neighborhood – gentrifying arts district.

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