Sunday, October 9, 2011

SWEDEN

(does not include Stockholm)

DALARNA COUNTY
(includes Askersund, Dala Husby, Mora, Smedby & Sundborn)
Askersund (includes Närke & Stora Herrgården)
Hotels
Stjernsund Castle – Närke; 011-46-5-831-0004; vitterhetsakad.se and vitterhetsakad.se/kulturfastigheter/stjernsunds_slott; open seasonally; accommodation available in 1 garden wing.
Restaurants
Palace Cafe – Närke (at Stjernsund Manor); 011-46-5-831-0004; vitterhetsakad.se; open seasonally.
Sights & Sites
Polhem Museum – Stora Herrgården; 011-46-2-258-0305; stjarnsund.com/polhem-museet.php; dedicated to Swedish inventor and scientist, Christopher Polhem.
Stjernsund Manor – Närke; 011-46-5-831-0004; vitterhetsakad.se/kulturfastigheter/stjernsunds_slott; beautifully situated on point in sound that connects Lake Alsen with Lake Vättern; built in strict neo-classical style with uncommonly well-preserved furnishings from 1850s, when castle owned by royal Bernadotte family; today boasts among best-documented & richest interiors from mid-19th Century; in 1951 bequeathed with furnishings & park to Royal Swedish Academy of Letters, History & Antiquities.

Dala Husby
Hotels
Dala Husby Hotell – 56 Smedbyvagen; 011-46-2-254-1270; dalahusbyhotell.com; in area of great natural beauty on River Dala’s banks; fishing.
Restaurants
Dala Husby Restaurang – 56 Smedbyvagen; 011-46-2-254-1270; dalahusbyhotell.com; highly regarded.
Sights & Sites
Husby Ring – husbyringen.se; 70 km drive (“eco museum” or “eco park”) that extends through Kloster, Langshyttan, Silfhyttea, Smedby-Husby, and Stjarnsund.

Mora
Sights & Sites
Zorn Museum – 36 Vasagatan; 011-46-2-5059-2310; anderszorn.org; museum dedicated to Anders Zorn, early 20th Century realism proponent; ticket price includes Zorn Museum, Zorn House, garden, and other related collections in various structures around town.

Smedby
Sights & Sites
Hussmo Church & Bell Tower – Lovshult; considered oldest Church in Dalarna area.
Stone Circle – Smedby Vagen; enormous rune stones.

Sundborn
Sights & Sites
Carl Larsson Garden & Museum – 12 Carl Larssons Vag (15 SE-790); 011-46-2-360-053; carllarsson.se; early 20th Century Swedish interior designer & painter.



JÅMTLAND COUNTY
(includes Fäviken & Härjedalen)
FÅVIKEN
Hotels
Fäviken Magasinet – 216 Fäviken; 011-46-6-474-0177; favikenmagasinet.se; 6 lodge rooms.
Restaurants
Fäviken Magasinet – 216 Fäviken; 011-46-6-474-0177; favikenmagasinet.se; 12 seats, open for dinner only unless you stay night in 1 of 6 lodge rooms; home-grown cuisine.

HÄRJEDALEN (includes Malmagen & Tanndalep)
Hotels
Fjallnas – Tanndalen; 011-46-6842-3030; fjallnas.se/en; among Sweden’s oldest mountain hotels; recently renovated; balances modern and rustic.



NORRBOTTEN COUNTY
HARADS (includes Lapland)
Hotels
Tree Hotel – 2A Edeforsvag (Lapland); 011-46-9-281-0403; treehotel.se; has to be seen to be believed.

KIRUNA
Hotels
Icehotel – 63 Marknadsvägen (Jukkasjärvi); 011-46-9-806-6800; icehotel.com; for aurora-viewing; mid-September to late March.
Sights & Sites
Abisko National Park – Abisko; 011-46-9-209-6000; visitabisko.com.



SKÅNE COUNTY
(includes Båstad, Hallands Väderö, Lund, Kivik, Malmö & Torekov)
BÅSTAD
Hotels
Hotel Skansen – 2 Kyrkogatan (Båstad); 011-46-4-3155-8100; www.hotelskansen.se; traditional spa.
Restaurants
Norrvikens Tradgardar – Båstad; 011-46-4-3136-9040; norrvikenstradgardar.se; public garden that runs restaurant; experimentalist cuisine.
Rammsjo Hamn Cafe – Rammsjostrand (Båstad); 011-46-7-3632-7784; facebook.com/pages/Rammsjö-hamn-cafe/226719190688362; next to boat launch.
Stollaby – 145 Paarpsvagen (Båstad); 011-46-4-3136-5636; stollaby.se; intimate bistro housed in stone building.
Shopping
Bissa G Segerson Keramik – 65 Hovshallavagen (Båstad); 011-46-4-3136-5032; bissa.se; tableware.
Sights & Sites
Norrvikens Tradgardar – Båstad; 011-46-4-3136-9040; norrvikenstradgardar.se; public garden.

HALLANDE VÄDERÖ
Sights & Sites
Hallands Väderö – take ferry from Torekov; stunning island and nature reserve.

KIVIK
Sights & Sites
King’s Grave – 18 Bredarörsvägen; 011-46-70-632-8829; enjoysweden.se/en/object/the-kings-grave-in-kivik; remains of unusually grand Nordic Bronze Age double burial (1000 BCE).

LUND
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Cafe Ariman – 2 Kungsgatan; 011-46-4-613-1263; ariman.se; coffee shop by day, beer spot by night.
Bars & Nightclubs
Bishops Arms – 7 Sankt Petri Kyrkogata; 011-46-4-614-9080; bishopsarms.com/Lund; pub.
Cafe Ariman – 2 Kungsgatan; 011-46-4-613-1263; ariman.se; coffee shop by day, beer spot by night.
Old Bull – 2 Bantorget; 011-46-4-614-0920; theoldbull.se; pub.
Rauhrackel – 5 Stora Algatan; 011-46-4-614-3727; rauhrackel.se; Austrian pub where you can order beer by meter.
Hotels
Grand Hotel Lund – 1 Bantorget; 011-46-4-6280-6100; grandilund.com; old grand dame; 83 rooms in castle-like structure with Art Nouveau touches.
Restaurants
Buljong – 6 Ostra Martensgatan; 011-46-7-3024-4029; contemporary yet rustic soup spot.
Krog Clemens – 8 Sankt Petri Kyrkogata; 011-46-4-6211-6553; krogsclemens.se; home-style restaurant that serves short-list of traditional Swedish fare.
Services
Lund Tourist Office – 1A Botulfsgatan; 011-46-4-635-5000; lund.se; free area maps.
Shopping
Holmgrens & Co. – 1 Martenstorget (Saluhallen); 011-46-4-6211-0018; knake.se; butcher; order lundaknake (beef and pork knackwurst made only here).
Osthuset – 1 Martenstorget (Saluhallen); 011-46-4-613-6327; cheese; try Tant Elsa Getost, classic, somewhat stinky (in good way).
Saluhallen – 1 Martenstorget; food market.
Sights & Sites
Botan – 20 Ostra Vallgatan; 011-46-4-6222-7320; botaniskatragarden.se; botanical gardens.
Historical Museum – 1 Kraftstorg; 011-46-4-6222-7944; luhm.lu.se; traces region’s history from Bronze to Iron Age.
Konsthall – 3 Martenstorget; 011-46-4-635-5295; lundskonsthall.se; contemporary art.
Kulturen – Tegnersplatsen; 011-46-4-635-0400; kulturen.com; world’s 2nd oldest open-air museum; displays skulls from Lund’s violent past.
Kungshuset – Lundagard Park; 011-46-4-6222-7590 (philosophy department); fil.lu.se; has fantastic oak spiral staircase built by Frederick II for Lund Bishop (now home to Lund University’s Philosophy Department).
Lund Cathedral (Domkyrkan) – Lundagard Park; 011-46-4-635-8700; lundsdomkyrka.se; 12th Century, Romanesque church; has magnificent astronomical clock; also, check out medieval crypt, which includes statue of “Finn,” holding up 1 of columns.
Museum of Sketches – 2 Finngatan; 011-46-4-6222-7283; adk.lu.se; devoted to “public art.

MALMÖ (includes Ostra Goinge)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Bar Italia – 3 Scaniaplatsen; 011-46-4-023-6754; ice cream that you can eat at outdoor table, overlooking water.
Restaurants
Bastard – 11 Mäster Johansgatan; 011-46-4012-1318; bastardrestaurant.se; great ambience & food; French-Italian-Nordic influence.
Ribersborgs Kallbadhus – 1 Brygga (Limhamnsvagen); 011-46-4-026-0366; en.ribersborgskallbadhus.se; 19th Century bath house and spa; restaurant.
Saltimporten Canteen – 24 Grimsbygatan; 011-46-70-651-8426; saltimporten.se; best lunch in town.
Services
Arstiderna by Sea – 1 Dockgatan; 011-46-4-023-3488; arstidernabythesea.se; modern Swedish cuisine; name translates as “Seasons by Sea”; locally grown vegetables.
Ribersborgs Kallbadhus – 1 Brygga (Limhamnsvagen); 011-46-4-026-0366; en.ribersborgskallbadhus.se; 19th Century bath house and spa; has restaurant, too.
Shopping
Loyal – 24 Grimsbygatan (Hullkajen, Saltimporten); 011-46-4-0615-3696; galleriloyal.com; modern art.
Sights & Sites
Malmo Central Station – centrally located near Great Square; 011-46-7-7175-7575; sj.se; main transit hub; permanent video installation by Tania Ruiz Gutierrez shows international landscapes streaming by as if seen from train.
Wanas – Knislinge (Ostra Goinge); 011-46-4-466-071; wanas.se/lang/en; rural arts foundation and estate; more than 50 permanent outdoor artworks in wooded park, plus large-scale installations and temporary exhibits in former farm buildings; also, handsome 16th Century castle (Wanas Slott), working organic dairy farm, and cafe.

TOREKOV
Hotels
Torekov Hotell – 2 Sjalaviksvagen (Torekov); 011-46-4-3147-1600; torekovhotell.se; modern, warm rooms; spa.
Restaurants
G. Swenson’s Krog – 2 Pal Romares Gata (Torekov); 011-46-4-3136-4590; swensons.se; lively; along harbor.
Services
Warmbadhus – Hamnplanen (Torekov); 011-46-4-3136-3632; torekovswarmbadhus.com; try hot seaweed bath.



STOCKHOLM COUNTY
SANDHAMN
Hotels
Sands Hotell – Box 123-124; 011-46-8-5715-3020; sandshotell.se; abundance of beaches, red-painted cottages, and paths that wind through pine forests; 17 rooms, where old-world details (cast-iron radiators, worn wooden floors) juxtaposed with modern luxuries.



UPPSALA COUNTY
UPPSALA
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Kafferummet Storken – 3 Stora Torget; 011-46-18-150-522; facebook.com/pages/Kafferummet-Storken/175487385807249; popular fika (coffee break) venue.
Landings – 5 Kungsangsgatan; 011-46-18-130-161; cafekartan.se/054923/Landings_Konditori; popular fika (coffee break) venue.
Bars & Nightclubs
Magnussons Krog – 1 Drottninggatan; 011-46-18-140-018; magnussonskrog.se; popular all-day riverfront restaurant and night-life spot.
Stationen – 6 Olof Palmes Plats; 011-46-18-604-550; brostromskafe.com; themed bar, brasserie, and cafe.
Hotels
Radisson Blu – 4 Stationsgatan; 011-46-18-474-7900; radissonblu.com; sleek.
Villa Anna – 3 Odinslund; 011-46-18-580-2000; villaanna.se; 11 luxurious rooms and upscale restaurant in 19th Century, neo-Renaissance mansion near cathedral.
Restaurants
Brostroms Kafe – 1 Roslagsgatan (at Godsmagasinet); 011-46-18-604-550; brostromskafe.com; sunny patio.
Magnussons Krog – 1 Drottninggatan; 011-46-18-140-018; magnussonskrog.se; popular all-day riverfront restaurant and night-life spot.
Stationen – 6 Olof Palmes Plats; 011-46-18-604-550; brostromskafe.com; themed bar, brasserie, and cafe.
Villa Anna – 3 Odinslund; 011-46-18-580-2000; villaanna.se; 11 luxurious rooms and upscale restaurant in 19th Century, neo-Renaissance mansion near cathedral.
Services
Uppsala Resecentrum (Travel Center) – 28 Bangardsgatan; 011-46-77-175-7575; stationsinfo.se/station/UppsalaCentral; modern bus depot and train station; modern glass structure.
Shopping
J. Lindeberg – 8 Svartbacksgatan; 011-46-18-133-121; jlindeberg.com; men’s and women’s clothing.
Radhuset – 10 Stora Torget; 011-46-18-490-5200; radhusetuppsala.se; department store stocking fashionable labels, both international and Swedish.
Tiger – 8 Svartbacksgatan; 011-46-18-146-650; tigerofsweden.com; men’s and women’s clothing.
Sights & Sites
Fyris River Walk – runs through city, lined with sidewalks on both sides that have benches that double as artworks; many cafes and restaurants; make sure to see old Mill islet (university water mill from 18th Century).
Gamla Uppsala – Disavagen (5 kms north of Uppsala); raa.se/olduppsala or uppsala.se; parish and village outside Uppsala; as early as 3rd-4th Century CE, important economic, political, and religious center.
Godsmagasinet – 1 Roslagsgatan; godsmagasinet.nu; old brick building now home to numerous popular venues.
Uppsala Domkyrka – Domkyrkoplan; 011-46-18-430-3500; uppsaladomkyrka.se; cathedral.
Uppsala Konsert & Kongress – 1 Vaksala Torg; 011-46-18-727-9000; ukk.se; cultural center and concert hall.
Uppsala Slott – Drottning Christinas Vag; 011-46-18-727-2485; uppsala.se; regal hilltop castle.
Upland Museum – 2 Fyristorg (on islet in Fyris River); 011-46-18-169-100; upplandsmuseet.se; cultural museum.



VÄSTRA GÖTALAND COUNTY
GOTEBORG (Gothenburg)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Bar Centro – 31 Kyrkogatan; 011-46-3-1711-0027; cafekartan.se/01163/Bar_Centro; small coffee shop where espresso made to exacting Italian standards.
Cafe Husaren – 28 Haga Nygata; 011-46-3-113-6378; cafehusaren.se; huge cinnamon buns (kanelbullar), known as Hagabullar.
Viktors Kaffe – 7 Geijersgatan; 011-46-76-268-6867; for fika, tradition of coffe and bulle (sweet bun).
Bars & Nightclubs
Cafe Publik – 20 Andra Langgatan; 011-46-3-114-7030; cafepublik.se; for younger crowd.
Olrepubliken – 2B Kronhusgatan; 011-46-3-1711-3710; olrepubliken.se; beer pub.
Puta Madre – 3 Magasinsgatan; 011-46-3-1711-8838; putamadre.se; styled as Mexican bordello circa 1918, without sleaze; margaritas.
3 Sma Rum – 4 Kristinelundsgatan; 011-46-3-118-1904; 3smarum.se; basement pub without outsize beer selection.
Vink – 5 Andra Langgatan; 011-46-3-113-4044; vink2.se; basement level wine bar.
Norda Bar & Grill – 10 Drottningtorget (at Clarion Hotel Post); 011-46-3-161-9060; nordabargrill.se; terrace bar.
Hotels
Clarion Hotel Post – 10 Drottningtorget; 011-46-3-161-9000; clarionpost.se; 500 rooms in former, historic post office building; next to central train station; huge spa and rooftop pool; maximalist design includes reception desk inlaid with crystal prisms.
First Hotel Avalon – 9 Kungstorget; 011-46-3-1751-0200; avalonhotel.se; feng shui Swedish design.
Restaurants
Gourmetkorv – 6 Sodra Larmgatan; 011-46-3-113-6233; gourmetkorv.se; hole-in-wall sausage specialist offering dozens variety; good lunch stop.
Norda – 411 Drottningtorget (at Clarion Hotel Post); 011-46-3-161-9060; nordabargrill.se; traditional Swedish food with necessary super-modern twists.
Puta Madre – 3 Magasinsgatan; 011-46-3-1711-8838; putamadre.se; styled as Mexican bordello circa 1918, without sleaze; margaritas and Mexican food.
Strommingsluckan – 17 Magasinsgatan; 011-46-73-245-9907; strommingsluckan.se; popular food trailer that offers lighter, Scandinavian fare; good for lunch.
Thornstroms Kok – 3 Teknologgatan; 011-46-3-116-2066; thornstromskok.com; Michelin star; minimalist, stark design.
Shopping
Artilleriet – 19 Magasinsgatan; 011-46-3-1711-7621; artilleriet.se; eclectice home furnishings.
Blue Jeans Company – 3 Vallgatan; 011-46-3-1701-0010; bjuejeanscompany.com; denim.
Grandpa – 3 Vallgatan; 011-46-3-1711-7008; grandpa.se; Swedish fashion designers; also home accessories and vintage furniture.
Sights & Sites
Branno – island that is part of Goteborg’s sprawling Southern archipelago; tranquil, nearly car-free; hiking paths and stunning sea vistas; to get here, take tram 11 to western terminus, Saltholmen, from which ferries depart regularly (styrsobolaget.com).
Feskekorka – Rosenlundsvägen; 011-46-3-113-7300; feskekörka.se; indoor fish market in gothic-style building.
Goteborgs Kunstmuseum – Gotaplatsen; 011-46-3-1368-3500; konstmuseum.goteborg.se; Nordic art repository; also houses Hasselblad Center, which displays photographic works.
Haga – historic neighborhood with cobblestone streets; good place for walking.
Kungsparken – Viktoriagatan; 011-46-3-161-2500(tourist information); goteborg.com; park hugs lovely, zig-zagging canal; follow west until reach Gothic-looking Feskekorka.
Roda Sten – 1 Roda Sten; 011-46-3-112-0816; rodasten.com; one-time abandoned building, appropriated by graffiti artists and ravers in 1980s and now artists and hipsters; arts & music event space.
Rohsska Museet – 37-39 Vasagatan; 011-46-3-1368-3150; designmuseum.se; design museum, exhibits ranging from Swedish fashion to midcentury furniture.

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