●Belgrade, Serbia to Bar, Montenegro – book through Rail Europe; 888-832-7245; RailEurope.com; goes through 250 tunnels on a 9-10 hour trip; hugs countless mountainsides.
Bars & Nightclubs
●Magacin – Karadjordjeva 2-4; 011-381-11-328-8824; nightclub.
●Square 9 Hotel – Studentski Trg 9; 011-381-11-333-3500; squarenine.rs; 45-room, Bauhaus-type structure designed by Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld; lobby lounge (furnished with Oriental carpets, antique globes, and casual but studied mix of Danish modern style furniture and local antiques) is like old-world men’s club; white rooms are chicly sleek, with Hermès toiletries and large, well-lit limestone baths; oak parquet floors with Serbian-made accent rugs; lap pool in basement health club.
●Jevrem – Gospodar Jevremova 36; 011-381-11-328-4746; restoran-jevrem.com.
●Klub Knjizevnika – Francuska 7; 011-381-11-262-7931; for dinner; cosmopolitan but louche.
Sights & Sites
●Ethnographic Museum – Studentski trg 13; 011-381-11-3281-888; etnografskimuzej.rs.
●Museum of Yugoslav History – Boticeva 6; 011-381-11-367-1485; mij.rs; includes Princess Ljubica’s residence, built in 1820-30s.
Sights & Sites
●San Giovanni Castle (Kotor Fortifications) – whc.unesco.org/pg.cfm?cid=31&id_site=125; integrated historical fortification system that protects medieval town; ramparts, towers, citadels, gates, bastions, forts, cisterns, castle & ancillary structures.
ULCINJ (includes Ada Bojana Island and Velika Plaza)
●Hotel Mediterran – Mujo Ulqinaku bb (Ulcinj); 011-382-30-403-124; hotel-mediteran.com; affordable.