Monday, December 12, 2011


Sights & Sites
Golden Gate Boat Trips – Harbour Road (Northumberland Coast AONB); 011-44-016-6572-1210; or

Farne Lighthouse – Inner Farne; 011-44-034-4800-1895 (National Trust);; built in 1811 per Daniel Alexander’s design; lighthouse keepers’ cottages to rear; lighthouse converted to solar powered operation in 1996; now maintained by Trinity House via their local lighthouse attendant, George Shiel, who also provides guided tours inside lighthouse.

Bars & Nightclubs
Ship & Crown – North Esplanade, Victoria Pier (St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8172-1368;; seafront location.

Old Government House – St. Ann’s Place (St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8172-4921;; luxurious rooms in town center.
Pandora Hotel – Hauteville (St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8172-0971;; where Victor Hugo’s mistress, Juliette Drouet, lived while he was exiled here; shabby-ish.
St. Pierre Park Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort – Rohais (St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8172-8282;

Côbo Tea Room – Le Couochant Du Soleil, Côbo Coast Road (Castel, on Côbo Bay); 011-44-014-8125-3366;; homemade produce, friendly service & homely atmosphere.
Crow’s Nest Brasserie – North Esplanade, Victoria Pier (St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8172-8994;; stylish bar-bistro; seafront location.
Fermain Beach Café – Fermain Lane (Village du Putron); 011-44-014-8123-8636;; lovely Côbo Bay is where Ebenezer & Liza have picnics (per G. B. Edwards’ Book of Ebenezer Le Page).
Le Nautique – Quay Steps (St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8172-1714;; also in St. Peter Port for fish & seafood.
Old Government House – St. Ann’s Place (St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8172-4921;; for dinner either of 2 restaurants: formal Governor’s Restaurant or airy & light Brasserie with walled garden.
Pavilion – Rohais (St. Peter Port, at St. Pierre Park Hotel); 011-014-8126-4165;; modern brasserie.

Gill Girard – Le Tertre, Route du Tertre (Castel); 011-44-014-8125-2403 or 011-44-077-8110-4094 (mobile, urgent calls only);; guided tours & walks.
Guernsey Information Center – North Esplanade (St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8172-3552;; island has 28-mile clifftop footpath network, maps for which available here.

Sights & Sites
Belle Grève Bay – on east coast (just north of St. Peter Port); large bay with lovely promenade along shore; park at La Salerie car park (south of bay) & walk north to next parish, St. Sampson, approximately 1.5 miles; love beach is La Petite Grève.
Candie Gardens – Candie Road (St. Peter Port); large Victor Hugo statue.
Chouet Peninsula – headland near Champ Rouget & Mont Cuet; where Ebenezer Le Page lived (per G. B. Edwards’ Book of Ebenezer Le Page).
Creux es Faies (Passage Grave) – Rue de Dehus (Vale, 4.5 kms north of St. Peter Port); neolithic passage grave; best is Le Déhus Dolmen, 4K-year-old passage grave; flick switch inside to illuminate capstone’s underside, which bears carved warrior figure, bearded, armed with arrows & bow.
Fort Doyle – La Route de la Lande (Vale); or; battery built on headland east of Fontenelle Bay in 1803 as part of extensive improvements to island’s defenses during war between England & revolutionary France; 3 18 pounder cannon placed at what was then known as “Doyle Battery” in honor of then Lieutenant Governor Sir John Doyle; fort remained important to island after construction of La Platte Fougère lighthouse in 1909; during WWII once again used for defense as German occupying forces, who called it Stutzpunkt Nebelhorn, heavily fortified area including 3 coastal defense guns, anti-aircraft guns & mortars (defensively strong position as overlooks possible landing places at eastern end of Fontenelle Bay & also narrow sea passage between coast Platte Fougère’s rocky reefs); distinctive rounded shape at northern end built to accommodate cannon on traversing platform, while other 2 faced east & west on rolling garrison carriages.
Fort Grey – Route de la Lague (Rocquaine, St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8126-5036; or; standing on site of earlier Château de Rocquaine; completed in 1804 & named in honor of General Charles, Early Grey of Howick, K.B., who was Governor of Guernsey from 1797-1807; due to its shape, affectionately known as “Cup and Saucer.”
Fort Hommet – Hommet headland (Castel); or; in 1680 there was fortification with 1 gun on this site; by 1795, however, fort strengthened & additional gun positions constructed; in 1801 6 guns recorded on headland; Martello tower built in 1804; in 1856 barrack block constructed & this housed part of Regular Army garrison until WWI (later destroyed).
Fort Le Marchant – L’Ancresse Common (Vale, accessible via footpath from Le Catelain or L’Ancresse Bay public car parks); or; fort has stood on site since at least 1680; at 18th Century’s end, when French invasion fears prompting new fortifications all around Guernsey’s coast, original fortification, known as Fort L’Angle, expanded; work completed in 1805 & new fort named after then Lieutenant Bailiff Eleazar Le Marchant; in 1854 large barracks built on fort’s landward side, surrounded by defensive ditch (barracks since demolished & ditch filled).
Fort Pezeries – Pleinmont (Torteval, accessible via pedestrian road from Portelet Harbour or via cliff path from Pleinmont headland); or;; fort has stood here since at least 1680; during 18th Century gun platform extended & musket steps added; later magazine built & parapet strengthened; by 1842 fort had fallen into disrepair; now 3 18 pounder cannons guard Rocquaine Bay once again.
Star Fort (Fort Pembroke) – Pembroke headland (Vale);; built in 1811; star forts were by their nature temporary constructions & survival of intact & unmodified examples are rare.
German Military Underground Hospital – La Vassalerie (St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8123-9100;; largest remaining structure from German Occupation; almost invisible from surface, tunnel complex covers 7K sq ms & hewn out of solid rock by slave workers; work started on this huge complex in 1944 when D-Day landings occurred & it looked likely that considerable German casualties might need to be cared for; hospital was never finished but forbidding atmosphere serves as reminder of grim conditions that slave workers lived in, many dying during its construction.
Hauteville House – 38 Hauteville (St. Peter Port); 011-44-014-8172-1911;; only home Victor ever owned, he lived here 15 years; spent years decorating house with found items from around island; worth seeing.
Lihou Island – where Ebenezer & his friend, Jim, are stranded (per G. B. Edwards’ Book of Ebenezer Le Page) all night when they miscalculate inrushing tide speed; at 33', Guernsey tidal range is among world’s biggest; visitors to nature reserve & ruined 12th Century priory on Lihou need to study tide times notice next to causeway so as not to suffer same fate as Ebenezer & Jim; also worth seeing is “Venus Pool,” large, deep, rock pool that can carefully clamber down to & take swim in if you’re brave enough.
Rocquaine Bay – St. Pierre du Bois Parish; shingle beach; also, where Liza Quéripel lived (per G. B. Edwards’ Book of Ebenezer Le Page).
Le Trépied Dolmen (Druid’s Altar) – St. Saviours (on Catioroc headland, near Clos Est Mougues & Roque Tourgis);; prehistoric passage grave built during Neolithic period (4000-2500 BCE); single chamber tomb with 3 capstones, 1 of which to original position in 1870s; excavations in 1840 discovered pottery & flint arrowheads dating to 1800 BCE; tomb repeatedly mentioned in 17th Century witch trials as witch meeting place & black sabbath venue (8 annual meetings to celebrate events like equinoces, etc., & attended by Devil).
Vale Castle – Castle Road (Vale);; original name “Le Chateau St Michel,” then became “Chateau de Val” or “Chateau de Valle”; over 1K years old; defends both St. Sampson’s harbor at eastern end of Braye du Valle, Guernsey & Bordeaux Harbour.

Archirondel Tower – northeast Jersey (close to St. Catherine’s woods); 011-44-015-3463-3304;; 1 of 24 Martello towers that dot Jersey coastline; built on rocky outcrop in St. Catherine’s Bay in 1792 and used as artillery soldier garrison; red and white tower now linked to shore by St. Catherine’s Breakwater’s abandoned southern arm; no running water or toilet facilities (beach café 100 yards away with 24-hour access to toilets and showers); guests must bring own sleeping bags; tower has electricity and lighting; only 7 day beds provided.
Fort Leicester – Bouley Bay; 011-44-015-3463-3304;; split across 3 levels; 2 large furnished bedrooms, living room, fully fitted kitchen, and bay views; large private garden and terrace; beach café and pub nearby.
Radio Tower – close to Corbiere; 011-44-015-3463-3304;; former occupying Nazi forces watchtower; top flower has 360° views; overlooks lighthouse.
Seymour Tower – Grouville; 011-44-015-3463-3304;; have to follow guide along mile and half trek at low tide to this 223 year-old structure; completely surrounded by water when tide comes in.
La Tour Carree – St. Ouen’s Bay; 011-44-015-3463-3304;

Company Shed – 129 Coast Road; 011-44-012-0638-2700;; need to bring your own bread, mayonaise, and wine; unprepossessing establishment, best visited in good weather; excellent seafood.

SARK – 1st island ever designated Dark Sky Space because of extraordinary starwatching conditions.
Stocks Hotel – Stocks Lane; 011-44-014-8183-2001;

Sights & Sites
Le Moulin – highest point on Sark & highest point of Bailiwick of Guernsey, with 114 meter altitude.
Pilcher Monument – above Havre Gosselin on west coast;; on evening in October 1868 Agnew Giffard, engineer-in-charge of new breakwater at Creux harbour, set off back to Guernsey in 18' gig; left Havre Gosselin with his brother Walter, Russell Renouf (breakwater lighthouse keeper), Dr. Gatehouse (medical officer, about to take up practise in Alderney) & J.G. Pilcher, London oil merchant; per Rev. Cachemaille, they were told it was dangerous to go & would soon be dark; tide carried them long way south, then wind blowing from north freshened into tempest; night fell & suddenly became intensely dark; wreck found 7 miles from Dielette (Normandy coast); Agnew Giffard’s body came ashore in Havre Gosselin; Walter Giffard’s body found in small cave at Pointe du Nez, Eperquerie; Russell Renouf’s body found in Gouliot caves; w months later Pilcher’s body came ashore at Niton (Isle of Wight); doctor’s body never found; granite monument erected by Pilcher’s widow; made from Guernsey granite by Henrys Monumental Masons, Bordage, Guernsey, with leaded letters.

Scillonian III – Penzance to Scilly; 011-44-084-5710-5555;
Isles of Scilly Skybus – Newquay Cornwall Airport to St. Mary’s Airport; 011-44-084-5710-5555;

Flying Boat Cottages – Old Grimsby (Tresco); 011-44-017-2042-2849;; stylish beach-houses with indoor pool, spa, bar, and restaurant.
Hell Bay Hotel – Bryher Island; 011-44-017-2042-2947;; 25 suites, some with private balconies and patios, decorated in warm colors; world’s edge setting.
Island Hotel – Tresco Island; 011-44-017-2042-2993;; 48 room lodge; Isles of Scilly; more like Caribbean than England.
New Inn – Tresco Island; 011-44-017-2042-2844;; Michelin-listed gastropub with airy rooms and great views.
St. Martin’s on Isle – St. Martin’s Island; 011-44-017-2042-2092;; little dingy inside (renovated 20 years ago) but smart outside with great restaurant.
Sea Garden Cottages – Old Grimsby (Tresco); 011-44-017-2042-2849;; 25 self-catering cottages; sea-facing.
Star Castle Hotel – St. Mary’s Island; 011-44-017-2042-2317;; once Elizabethan castle built in 1593; converted to hotel in 1933; wonderful views; rooms have antiques and rich fabrics.
Tresco Holidays Cottages – Old Grimsby (Tresco); 011-44-017-2042-2849;

Ales of Scilly – St. Mary’s Island; 011-44-017-2042-2419; microbrewery.
Ruin Beach Cafe – Old Grimsby (Tresco); 011-44-017-2042-2849;; charming place that serves great coffee, pizzas, and homemade granola; wholesome eco vibe; very laid-back and relaxed, barefoot but civilized, with lots of driftwood and stone; can watch beach from terrace.
St. Martin’s Bakery – St. Martin’s Island; 011-44-017-2042-3444;; sourdough and Lawrence Loaf are specialties; also, Cornish pasty using Tresco beef.
St. Martin’s Vineyard – St. Martin’s Island; 011-44-017-2042-3418;
Troytown Farm – St. Agnes Island; 011-44-017-2042-2360;; 14-acre property.

Bird-Watching – William Wagstaff; consult naturalists’ notice board on St. Mary’s Quay.
Island Sea Safaris – 011-44-017-2042-2732;; boat around isles.
Walks – contact Katharine Sawyer;; guided tours.

Hillside Farm – Bryher Island; 011-44-017-2042-3156;; roadside stall for produce.
Tresco Stores – Tresco Island; 011-44-017-2042-2806; impressive goody range; specially cheeses.

Sights & Sites
Abbey Garden – Tresco Island; 011-44-017-2042-4105; staggering array of botanicals.
Isles of Scilly Museum – St. Mary’s Island; 011-44-017-2042-2337;; artifacts from shipwrecks, wildflowers.

Sunday, December 4, 2011


(includes Aledo, Roanoake, Watauga & Weatherford)

Blue Bonnet Bakery – 4705 Camp Bowie Boulevard; 817-731-4233;; open since 1934; great sandwiches.
Brewed – 801 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-945-1545;; combo coffeehouse & gastropub with lively patio; worth special trip.

Brewed – 801 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-945-1545;; combo coffeehouse & gastropub with lively patio; worth special trip.
Grace Fort Worth – 777 Main Street; 817-877-3388;; ultra-modern; hopping terrace, weather permitting; housemade cocktails.
TP Tavern – 221 West Lancaster Avenue; 817-885-8878;; in old Texas & Pacific railroad station; bar with modest selection sandwiches, sliders, salads and tacos; also cheese board; beer, martinis, and wine.

Ashton Hotel – 610 Main Street; 817-332-0100 or 866-327-4866;; renovated from 2 buildings on National Register of Historic Places.

Angelo’s Bar-B-Que – 2533 White Settlement Road; 817-332-0357; barn-like barbecue joint.
Aventino’s – 3206 Winthrop Avenue; 817-731-0711;; classic and modern Italian; operated for 26 years.
Bonnell’s – 4259 Bryant Irvin Road; 817-738-5489;; modern Texas food; closed Sundays & Mondays.
Brownstone – 840 Currie Street; 817-332-1555;; soulful, Southern-inspired cuisine.
Café Modern – 3200 Darnell Street (at Museum of Modern Art); 817-840-2157;; named 1 of America’s best restaurants by Gourmet.
Carshon’s – 3133 Cleburne Road; 817-923-1907;; deli since 1928; great chocolate meringue pie.
Cattlemen’s Steakhouse – 2458 North Main Street; 817-624-3945;; Jesse E. Roach opened on whim in 1947; internationally renowned for aged beef & massive steaks.
Chef Point Café – 5901 Watauga Road (Watuaga); 817-656-0080;; in gas station convenience store; serves escargot and rack of lamb; gourmet food in strange setting; make sure to try bread pudding.
Cousin’s Bar-B-Q – 6262 McCart Avenue; 817-346-2511;; several different locations - including 2 at DFW Airport - but original, unprepossessing, locale is best.
Dutch’s – 3009 South University Drive; 817-927-5522;; hamburgers.
Ellerbe Fine Foods – 1501 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-926-3663;; in former gas station; charming, southern-style, home-cooking; very good with well-sourced ingredients.
Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery & Café – 2122 North Main Street; 817-626-5770;; simple but good Mexican food.
Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery & Café – 1601 Park Place Avenue; 817-332-3848;; simple but good Mexican food.
Fire Oak Grill – 114 Austin Avenue (Weatherford); 817-598-0400;; rustic Texas cuisine.
Fred’s Texas Café – 915 Currie Street; 817-332-0083;; burgers.
Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Restaurant – 2201 North Commerce; 817-626-4356;; Tex-Mex food; ask for menu if they don’t bring out; enormous gardens and grounds; open since 1935; doesn’t accept credit cards.
Grace Fort Worth – 777 Main Street; 817-877-3388;; ultra-modern; seasonal fare.
Hedary’s Mediterranean Restaurant – 6323 Camp Bowie Boulevard; 817-731-6961;; middle-eastern food.
Inzo Italian Kitchen – 2747 Hulen Street; 817-924-2749;; excellent pizza; reliable Italian standards; popular neighborhood watering hole.
Inzo Italian Kitchen – 101 South Oak Street; 817-890-4280;; excellent pizza; reliable Italian standards.
Kincaid’s Hamburgers – 4901 Camp Bowie Boulevard; 817-732-2881;
Kincaid’s Hamburgers – 4825 Overton Ridge Boulevard; 817-370-6400;
Kincaid’s Hamburgers – 3124 Texas Sage Trail; 817-750-3200;
Lanny’s Alta Cocina Mexicana – 3405 West 7th Street; 817-850-9996;; high-end European-Mexican food in elegant, modern Latin setting; perfect atmosphere encompasses Fort Worth’s best restaurant; worth special trip.
Lonesome Dove Western Bistro – 2406 North Main Street; 817-740-8810;; rattlesnake nachos; wild boar ribs.
Longoria’s BBQ – 100 Christopher Drive; 817-568-9494;; massive pork ribs; sausage is 100% ground brisket; also, house made chorizo.
Love Shack – 110 East Exchange Avenue; 817-740-8812;; hamburgers.
Magnolia Cheese Co. – 1251 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-945-2221;; antique chairs, dishes, and tables; cheese and cured-meat planks; salads, sandwiches & soups.
Mexican Inn – 6709 Lake Worth Boulevard; 817-237-7691;; open since 1936 and has several locations; Tex-Mex standby.
Nonna Tata – 1400 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-332-0250;; excellent Italian.
Our Place Restaurant – 7420 North Beach Street; 817-514-0033;; breakfasts are worth special trip.
Our Place Restuarant – 7630 Northeast Loop 820 (North Richland Hills); 817-485-5454;; breakfasts are worth special trip.
Paris Coffee Shop – 704 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-335-2041;; open from 6:30 to 2:30, Monday-Saturday.
Pegaso Mexican Diner – 3516 Blue Bonnet Circle; 682-708-3127;
Piattello Italian – 5924 Convair Dr. #412, Fort Worth; 817-349-0484;; bright, cheery spot for seasonal, housemade pastas & pizzas, plus espresso drinks & cocktails.
Ryan’s Fine Grocer – 815 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-945-2770;; specialty grocer with delectable artisan sandwich menu; salads; good Saturday people-watching.
Spiral Diner – 1314 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-332-8834;; vegan.
St. Emilion – 3617 West 7th Street; 817-737-2781;; brick-walled, country French.
Szechuan Chinese Restaurant – 5712 Locke Avenue; 817-738-7300;; Asian eatery with cult following; try lemon chicken and/or River Shaing pork.
Tillman’s Roadhouse – 2933 Crockett Street; 817-850-9255;; avant garde Texas food; make sure to have s’mores for dessert.
Waters Bonnell’s Coastal Cuisine – 2901 Crockett Street; 817-984-1110;; fine seafood in West 7th District.
Woodshed Smokehouse – 3201 Riverfront Drive; 817-877-4545;; wildly popular; on Trinity River’s banks; good Sunday morning experience (live music).

Brumbaugh Fine Home Furnishings – 11651 Camp Bowie West Boulevard (Aledo); 817-244-9377;; Western furniture.
Magnolia Cheese Co. – 1251 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-945-2221;; artisanal cheeses.
Ryan’s Fine Grocer – 815 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-945-2770;; specialty grocer with delectable artisan sandwich menu; salads; good Saturday people-watching.

Amon Carter Museum – 3501 Camp Bowie Boulevard; 817-738-1933;; American art museum, with some focus on Western art.
Beer Can House – 2901 Whitmore Street (Arlington Heights);
Burger’s Lake – 1200 Meandering Road; 817-737-3414;; 30-acre park with 1-acre, spring-fed swimming pool; sandy beach; popular hangout for Fort Worth residents; fountains, diving boards, water slides, sandy beaches & plenty of shade.
Chandor Gardens – 711 West Lee Street (Weatherford); 817-613-1700;; small, beautiful and quirky.
Coyote Drive-In – 223 Northeast 4th Street; 817-717-7767;
Fort Worth Museum of Modern Art – 3200 Darnell Street; 817-738-9215;; tremendous architecture, very good standing collection, including 2 Anselm Kiefers worth special visit; good cafe.
Kimbell Art Museum – 3333 Camp Bowie Boulevard; 817-332-8451;; note, see Caravaggio’s Cardsharps (1594).
Shannon Rose Hill Memorial Park – 7301 East Lancaster; 817-451-3333; where Lee Harvey Oswald buried.


(includes Rawai)

White Box Restaurant – 245/7 Prabaramee Road; 011-66-76-346-271;; trendy upstairs bar with sweeping ocean views through floor-to-ceiling windows; try spicy Tom Yum martini (chili, galangal, kaffir lime, lemon grass, and vodka).

Bang Tao
Kamala – Kamala Beach Road; hit hard by Tsunami but recovered substantially.
Mai Khao – part of Sirinat National Park, along Phuket’s northwestern shore; undisturbed.
Nai Harn – has Thai temple sitting directly behind it; fairly undeveloped.

Boonsung – up coast by short drive.
King Cruiser – car ferry sunk in 1997; now flourishing artificial reef.
Koh Bida Islands – couple hours cruise away; trip there will take you by Koh Phi Phi limestone karsts immortalized in Beach.
Siam Bay Underwater Statues – off southern coast; giant, coral-encrusted elephant & yak statues; placed after 2004 tsunami.
Similan Islands – best reached by live-aboard; huge, horseshoe-shaped rock that forms natural shelter for fish, seahorses & harlequin shrimp.
Richelieu Rock – uninhabited islands surrounded by calm, pristine waters; manta rays off Koh Bon, just north of islands.

Aleenta Resort & Spa – 3 Lardprao Soi 95 (Phangnga); 011-66-76-580-333;; 30-villa resort in Phang Nga where nearly deserted Natai Beach is central focus; some suites right on beach and come with tropical gardens, outdoor showers, and floor-to-ceiling retractable windows that open onto private infinity pools; 8 duplex suites have double-height ceilings while 2 villas are outfitted as spa residences for hotel guests; excellent food; January-February best months; ask for any of 4 pool suites that face Andaman Sea.
Amanpuri – 118/1 Moo. 3 Srisoonthorn Road (Chengthalay, Pansea Beach); 011-66-76-324-333 or 800-477-9180;‎; ocean views; beautiful beach; former coconut plantation.
Anantara Phuket Layan Resort & Spa – Phuket Layan; 011-66-76-317-200;; tropical sanctuary in tranquil bay setting on Phuket’s western coast; opens onto private stretch of Layan Beach, soft white sands lapped by Andaman Sea; 30 rooms & suites, as well as 47 pool villas in 7 styles.
Andara – 15 Moo 6 (Kamala Beach); 011-66-76-338-777;; massive 3-6 bedroom private villas; although great hillside views, bit of hike to beach.
Banyan Tree – 33, 33/27 Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Road (Amphur Talang, Cherngtalay); 011-66-76-324-374;; surrounded by gardens and water courts; on Bang Tao Bay; Thai village architecture.
Indigo Pearl – Nai Yang Beach; 011-66-76-327-006;; modern and unexpectedly funky; lush landscaping with encircling lagoons creates sense of exclusivity; have to cross street to get to public beach; January-February is best time to go; 2-story Bensley Suite has private pool and sauna.
Mom Tri’s Villa Royale Phuket – 12 Kata Noi Road, Kata Noi Beach; 011-66-76-333-568;; boutique resort with 35 sumptuous, Thai-style suites.
Paresa Resort – 49 Moo 6, Layi-Nakalay Road (Kamala); 011-66-76-302-000;; lovely.
Phuket Pavilions – 31/1 Moo 6 (Cherngtalay); 011-66-76-317-600;; hushed resort overlooking Bang Tao and Layan beaches; 21 spacious, hillside, 1-bedroom villas with kitchens; big infinity pool; secluded; driest months are January-February; Villas 15-20 have best sea views.
Phulay Bay (Krabi) – 111 Mood 3 (Nongthalay); 011-66-75-628-111;; huge villas with huge beds; note that beach at low tide looks muddy; stunning rock formation views.
Regent Phuket – 101 Cherng Talay Road (Cherng Talay, Talang); 011-66-76-304-539;
Regent Phuket Cape Panwa – 84 Moo 8, Sakdidej Road (T. Vichit, Muang); 011-66-2-653-0555;
SALA Phuket Resort & Spa – 333 Moo 3, Mai Khao; 011-66-76-338-888;‎; serene hideaway, to north; 79 rooms and villas, most with private pools.
Six Senses Yao Noi – 56 Moo 5 (Tambol Koh Yao Noi); 011-66-76-418-500;; secluded on island; quite rustic; great restaurant.
Trisara – 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Road (Cherngtalay); 011-66-76-310-100;; quiet on gorgeous, semi-private beach; note that entry-level rooms are tiny; all rooms with private pool and ocean view.

Mom Tri’s Boathouse Regatta – 63/302 Moo 2, Thepkasattri Road; 011-66-76-360-855;; breezy boardwalk spot on Royal Phuket Marina; try lobster ravioli with morel mushroom veloute or curried fried rice with seafood, pineapple, and cashews.
Reserve – 56 Moo 5 (Tambol Koh Yao Noi, at Six Senses Yao Noi); 011-66-76-418-500;; great restaurant on hilltop with lovely views.
White Box Restaurant – 245/7 Prabaramee Road; 011-66-76-346-271;; ocean views through floor-to-ceiling windows and on elegant terrace; foodie favorite.

Elephant Rides – Bang Pae Safari, 12/3 Moo 5, T. Srisoonthorn Road; 011-66-76-311-163;
Thailand Aggressor – 209 Hudson Trace (Augusta, Georgia); 706-993-2531 or 800-348-2628;; live-aboard dive accommodations that are luxurious and perfect for dive vacations.

Love Art Studio – Art Village, 88 Moo 1, Viset Road (Rawai); 011-66-8-9471-5653;; art.
Red Gallery – Art Village, 88 Moo 1, Viset Road (Rawai); 011-66-8-7890-3722;; artist Somrak Maneemai's paintings.
Tawan Ook Art Gallery – Art Village, 88 Moo 1, Viset Road (Rawai); 011-66-8-1956-5872; art.

Bang Pae Waterfall – at Khao Phra Thaeo Wildlife Sanctuary; open for swimming.
Khao Phra Thaeo Wildlife Sanctuary – Amphoe Thalang; 011-66-76-30-4100;; only remaining virgin rainforest on island; visit Gibbon Rehabilitation Project (
Mount Nagakerd – Karon sub-district, Muang District (follow red-and-white signs from Chalong);; see Phraphutthamingmongkhol-akenagakhiri Buddha, enormous (147' high), white jade marble-covered statue; magnificent Andaman Sea views.
Ong Sim Phai Road – night food market.


Daniel Briand Patissier & Chocolatier – SCLN 104, Bloco A, Loja 26; 011-55-61-3326-1135;; breakfast and brunch lovers’ dream; great pastries, pates, and quiches.

Beirute – CLS 109, Bloco A; 011-55-61-3244-1717; 55 years-old; traditional watering hole; massive outdoor patio packed with edgier crowd than most (called “LS point,” Brazilian acronym for gays, lesbians and sympathetics); for beer.
Boteco – CLS 406, Bloco D, Loja 35; 011-55-61-3443-4344; Rio de Janeiro-style bar; great shrimp croquettes (coxinha de camarao).
Cade Tereza – CLS 201, Bloco B, Loja 1; 011-55-61-3225-0555;; named after Jorge Ben Jor song whose title means “Where’s Tereza?”; less-than-impressive ambience offset by cold beer, lively crowd, and active late-afternoon sambas on Saturday afternoons.
Calaf – SBS, Quadra 2, Bloco S; 011-55-61-3325-7408;; longtime classic, Samba bar; brings unexpected life to otherwise abandoned Southern Banking Sector.
Libanus – CLS 206, Bloco C, Loja 36; 011-55-61-3244-9795; for beer.

Brasilia Palace – SHTN, Trecho 1, Conjunto 1; 011-55-61-3306-9100;; not as comfortable as other hotels but has history and style; very 1960s.
Royal Tulip Brasilia Alvorada – SHTN, Trecho 1, Conjunto 1B, Bloco C; 011-55-61-3424-7000;; functional.
Tryp Brasil 21 – SHS, Quadra 6, Conjunto A, Bloco F; 011-55-61-3218-4700;; business-style, comfortable; steeply discounted on weekends.

Alice Brasserie – SHIS, Quadra 1, Comercio Local 17, Loja 201-204 (Lago Sul, at Ed Fashion Park); 011-55-61-3248-7743;; conservative, French home-cooking.
Aquavit – SMLN, Trecho 12, Conjunto 1, Casa 5; 011-55-61-9167-0037 or 011-55-61-3369-2301;; glass-walled dining room in Chef’s home; in tropical garden; Brazilian-French-Scandinavian fusion; try grilled foie gras with caramelized pineapple and corn brioche.
Beirute – CLS 109, Bloco A; 011-55-61-3244-1717; 55 years-old; Middle Eastern food.
Mangai – SCE Sul, Trecho 2, Conjunto 41 (near Juscelino Kubitschek Bridge); 011-55-61-3224-3079;; north-east cuisine; chain branch; 80 dish and 40 dessert buffet; pay by weight; also included are juice and hammock on porch overlooking Lake Paranoa.
Patu Anu – SMLN, Trecho 12, Conjunto 1, Casa 7; 011-55-61-3369-2788;; among city’s finest; 30-seat “aerie” decorated with riotous tropicalia; hidden in forest on city’s eastern edge; glass-sided dining room looks out over distant city, whose reflection twinkles in Lake Paranoa.
Zuu a.Z. d.Z. – SCLS, Quadra 210, Bloco A, Loja 38; 011-55-61-3244-1039;; slow food; high society.

Clube de Vento – SCES, Trecho 2, Conjunto 13 (at Clube Naval); 011-55-61-8124-8596;; rent SUP (pronounced “Soupie”), Stand-Up Paddleboard; paddle over Lake Paranoa towards Juscelino Kubitschek Bridge.

Confraria – SHIS, Quadra I 9, Bloco A, Loja 6 (Lago Sul); 011-55-61-3386-0882;; wicker, leather, and cowhide bags.
Magrella – SHIS, Comercio Local 3, Bloco F (Lago Sul); 011-55-61-3364-4977;; fashion emporium, dominated by Brazilian women’s labels, like Adriana Degreas, Raia de Goeye, and Gloria Coelho.

Biblioteca Nacional de Brasilia – SCS, Lote 2 (Esplanada dos Ministerios), Complexo Cultural da República João Herculino); 011-55-61-3325-6257;; 390-foot-long wedge faced with intricate, concrete screening, again in gleaming white; watches over inky pool series; also known as National Library Leonel de Moura Brizola; next to Monumental Axis and part of Republic’s Cultural Complex; for some time known as “library without books” because remained for some time without collection and closed to visitors; along with National Library, forms Herculino Cultural Complex.
Ermida Dom Bosco – Quadra I 29 (Lago Sul); Oscar Niemeyer-designed shrine across Lake Paranoa from Pilot Plan; best place to watch sunset; daily crowd appears.
Espaco Cultural Contemporaneo – SCN, Quadra 3, Bloco C, Loja 5; 011-55-61-3327-2027;; tucked away close to hotel zone, just north of Eixo Monumental; among country’s main photography venues.
Honestino Guimaraes Museu Nacional – SCS, Lote 2 (Esplanada dos Ministerios, Complexo Cultural da Republica Joao Herculino); 011-55-61-3325-5220;; brilliant, white 150-foot-high hemisphere with curving, cantilevered balcony partially encircling it, with long grand ramp leading to its gaping entrance; visual arts museum; along with National Library, forms Herculino Cultural Complex.
Igrejinha de Fatima – Entrequadras 307/308, Asa Sul; 011-55-61-3242-0149;; city’s 1st church, also by Oscar Niemeyer; very modest in dimension and execution.
Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady Aparecida (Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida) – SCS, Lote 2 (Esplanada dos Ministerios); 011-55-61-3224-4073;; crown-shaped structure that represents 2 hands reaching up to heaven, fingers splayed, lined with stained glass.
“Pilot Plan” – original, planned city by Oscar Niemeyer; for walking tour, start at Praca dos Tres Poderes (“3 Powers Square”), which has 3 Niemeyer-designed, government buildings, including Planalto Palace (where President works), Federal Supreme Court, and (towering over both) 2-domed and 2-towered National Congress.
Palacio do Planalto – Praca dos Tres Poderes (Esplanada dos Ministerios, Eixo Monumental); 011-55-61-3411-2317;; Presidential workspace; public areas filled with Brazilian art and modernist furniture by Sergio Rodrigues.
Santuario Dom Bosco – SEPS, Quadra 702; 011-55-61-3223-6542;; 50' high Gothic arches filled with 12 tones blue and purple stained glass.

Friday, December 2, 2011


(does not include Angra Dos Reis & Paraty, Bahia, Brasilia, Rio de Janeiro (city itself), & Sao Paulo)

Brazilian Beach House Company – 98 Rua Visconde de Pirajá (Rio de Janeiro, Ipanema); 011-55-21-2225-9476;; run by Steven Chew; excellent villas for rent in beach areas & some hotel recommendations.

Belo Horizonte
Mercure Belo Horizonte Lourdes – 7315 Avenida do Contorno; 011-55-31-3298-4100;; not luxurious but comfortable rooms; English-speaking staff.
Restaurante Xapuri – 260 Rua Mandacaru; 011-55-31-3496-6198;; rustic, mineiro dishes.
Sights & Sites
Igreja Sao Francisco de Assis – 3000 Avenida Otacílio Negrão de Lima; 011-55-31-3427-1644‎;; Oscar Niemeyer-designed church, open to public.
Ouro Preto –; UNESCO World Heritage site; 2 hours south of Belo Horizonte.

Nhô Hotel – 20 Rua B (at Centro de Arte Contemporânea Inhotim); 011-54-5531-3571-9700;; onsite hotel.
Sights & Sites
Centro de Arte Contemporânea Inhotim – 20 Rua B; 011-54-5531-3571-9700;; cutting-edge contemporary art & beautiful landscaped park.
Instituto Cultural Inhotim – Rua B 20; 011-55-31-3227-0001;; hire guide through institute; pavilions by Doug Aitken, Matthew Barney, and Chris Burden’s “Beam Drop”; good café on-site.

Reserva do Ibitipoca – Fazenda do Engenho (entrada Lima Duarte III); ;; brick, mortar & spectacular location; some think best hotel in Brazil.

Solar da Ponte – Praca das Merces; 011-55-32-3355-1255;; 18 elegant apartments.
Tragaluz – 52 Rua Direita; 011-55-32-3355-1424; mineiro modern food.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Sorverteria Cairu – 1570 Travessa 14 de Marco; 011-54-5591-3242-2749; ice creams and popsicles; other locations.

Foz de Iguacu
Bourbon Cataratas – Rodovia das Cataratas, Km 2.5; 800-451-010 or 011-55-45-3521-3900;; beautifully appointed rooms; in original wing, standard rooms look out over front while superior rooms have veranda and look over pool; new wing houses master suites with newer furnishings and huge windows providing lovely views; 2km trail through orchards and lovely gardens; toucans, parakeets, and colorful butterflies in aviary; vast pool complex (3 large pools, 1 for children); top-notch gym and indoor pool, climbing wall and tennis courts, soccer field, and beach volleyball court.
Hotel das Cataratas – Parque Nacional do Iguacu; 800-837-9051 or 011-55-45-2102-7000;; Iguaçu’s most famous hotel; emphasis on outdoor activities; pool; standard rooms not overly large, but hardwood floors and firm twin or double beds; bathrooms have large granite countertops and modern tub/shower combos; (some rooms have carpet instead of hardwood floors, state preference when reserve); superior rooms slightly larger, with forest or garden views; deluxe rooms all have beautiful hardwood floors, dark-wood furniture, and bathrooms with large bathtubs; few have balconies; rooms spread out over wings connected by spacious corridors; large pool complex and forested area behind hotel with nature walks and trails to explore.
Bufalo Branco Churrascaria – Rua Engeneiro Rebouças 530; 011-55-45-3523-9744;; churrasco (grilled meat), such as picanha (rump steak), alcatra (top sirloin), filet mignon, maminha (fattier rump steak), and contra filet (entrecôte).
Zaragoza – Rua Quintino Bocaiuva 882; 011-55-45-3574-3084;; international cuisine with strong Spanish flavor; particularly strong on seafood; on Saturday, feijoada and on Sunday paella for lunch.
Trapiche – Rua Marechal Deodoro 1087; 011-55-45-3527-3951;; seafood.
Sights & Sites
Parque Nacional do Iguacu – Rodovia dos Cataratas, Km 18; 011-55-045-3572-2261;; Brazilian Falls; rafting and zodiac trips; pathway zigzags down gorge and trundles along cliff face, providing views across narrow gorge at water cascading down in 100 different places; 275 separate waterfalls; colorful butterflies fluttering about trail and grumbling coati (larger raccoon relative) begging for food; elevated walkway leading out in front of 1 fall.

Mercurius – purpose-sunk wreck.
Sights & Sites
Olinda – artsy suburb where Europeans first settled.

Buzios (includes Rocka)
Bars & Nightclubs
Rocka Beach Lounge & Restaurant – Praia Beach (Rocka); 011-55-22-2623-6159;; sexy beach club bohemia (indoor-outdoor architecture) set along hillside outcropping series.
Casas Brancas – Alto do Humaita 10; 011-55-22-2623-1458;; reigning queen.
Insolito Boutique Hotel – Rua E1, Lotes 3 & 4 (Condomínio Atlântico); 011-55-22-2623-2172;; stylish boutique; perced on ridge above Praia Ferradura; Brazilian furniture, art, and objects decorate 11 rooms and suites; French restaurant; 2 pool decks.
Insolito Boutique Hotel – Rua E1, Lotes 3 & 4 (Condominio Atlantico); 011-55-22-2623-2172;; French restaurant.
Quintal – Praia de Manguinhos (specific address given on reservation); 011-55-22-2623-1934; semi-secret restaurant in beautiful, clay-tiled mansion; globally influenced; try gnocchi president.
Rocka Beach Lounge & Restaurant – Praia Beach (Rocka); 011-55-22-2623-6159;; not-so-serious menu of seafood classics that somehow taste like best thing you’ve ever eaten; fish specialties cooked on open grill.

Fernando de Noronha
Praia do Conceicao.
Baia dos Porco – among Brazil’s top 3 beaches.
Praia do Leao – among Brazil’s top 3 beaches; secluded; sea turtle nesting spot.
Praia do Sancho – among Brazil’s top 3 beaches; reachable only by ladder.
Brothers Bay – sharks.
Cagarras – large rock formations.
Caverna da Sapata – green turtles.
Cordilheiras – 60' drop to rock-strewn bottom; lobsters, octopi, squirrel fish, turtles.
Pedras Secas – best diving site, with electric colors and rock formations.
Ecopousada Teju-Acu – Estrada de Alamoa; 011-55-81-3619-1277;; 12 bungalows; jungly pool; Penelope Cruz & Javier Bardem stayed here.
Pousada Ze Maria – 1 Rua Nice Cordeiro; 011-55-81-3619-1258;; rustic but with unparalleled views.
Ze Maria – 1 Rua Nice Cordeiro (at Pousada Ze Maria); 011-55-81-3619-1258;; Wed.-Sat. night seafood buffets.
Atlantis – 20 Caixa Postal; 011-55-81-3619-1371;; divemasters.
Sights & Sites
Buraco da Raquel – BR 363 (at road end); cave.
Morro do Pico – rocky outcropping; highest point.

Floresta Velha
Beijupira – 470 Rua Amaro Preto; 011-55-81-3619-1250;
Pousada Maravilha – Sueste Bay; 011-55-81-3619-0028;; luxe, 8-room resort.
Pousada Triboju – 133 Rua Amaro Preto; 011-55-81-3619-1370;; huge rooms with recycled hardwoods; breakfast poolside.
Beijupira – 470 Rua Amaro Preto; 011-55-81-3619-1250;; only 5 tables in this Greek-influenced restaurant.

Florianopolis (includes Jurere & Lagoa da Conceição)
Bars & Nightclubs
Barraco da Mole – Praia Mole; 55-48-3232-5585; popular with beach set.
Confraria das Artes – 31 Rua João Pacheco da Costa (Lagoa da Conceição); 011-55-48-3232-2298; nightclub niched in colonial edifice and outfitted with vintage furniture;
Pacha – Rodovia Maurício Sirotsky Sobrinho; 011-55-48-3282-2054;; megaclub chain member.
Parador 12 – Servidão J. Cardoso Oliveira; 011-55-48-3284-8156;; beach club awash in Champagne served to bronzed bodies on white canopy beds.
Praia Café – 1B Avenida dos Merlins; 011-55-48-3282-1325;; where parties go until 4 am.
Praia Mole – long strip talcum-like sand and world-class waves on Santa Catarina Island’s east coast; popular with bikini-clad girls, sculpted tanners, and surfers.
Il Campanario Villagio Resort – 1760 Avenida dos Búzios (Jurere); 011-55-48-3261-6000;
Mergulhao – Porto de Santo Antonio; 011-55-81-3619-0215; innovative seafood with lovely harbor views.
Nascimento – Vila do Trinta; 011-55-81-3619-1546; windows and wood spot by water that serves grilled fish and traditional dishes.
Ponta dos Ganchos – 104 Rua Eupídeo Alves do Nascimento (Santa Catarina Island); 011-55-48-3953-7000 or 800-643-3346;; on little island linked to peninsula by long, wooden bridge; most romantic dinner ever; in gazebo; menu changes every day; must try world-famous Santa Catarina oysters with drizzle of lime juice.
Porto Marlin – Porto de Santo Antonio; 011-55-81-3619-1452; rustic room with 12 tables; sushi at dinner.
Praia Café – 1B Avenida dos Merlins; 011-55-48-3282-1325;
Sights & Sites
Lagoa da Conceição – boho-chic, inland village; artists, intellectuals, and media types.

Governador Celso Ramos
Ponta dos Ganchos – Rua Eupidio Alves do Nascimento (on Costa Esmerelda); 011-55-48-262-5000;; 20-bungalow retreat spread over 20 acres Brazilian beachfront, rain forest looming just beyond shore and fishing village provide only land action; off Arvoredo Biological Marine Reserve (less than hour away), sustaining rainbow of aquatic life, from 300-pound green sea turtles to tiny pocket-size sea horses.

Quinta do Bucanero – Estrada Geral do Rosa; 011-55-48-3355-6056;; carved into cliffside; luxurious, 10-room pousada with beautiful gardens and small spa.
Lua Marinha – Estrada Geral de Ibiraquera; 011-55-48-3354-0613;; unfussy but refined seafood dishes using local ingredients; wooden deck overlooks lagoon.

Praia do Rosa
Bars & Nightclubs
Beleza Pura – 313 Rua Jardim da Lagoa (Praia do Rosa, near Praia da Ferrugem); 011-55-48-8829-1253;; heats up after dark (early) and closes around 3-4 am; open daily December-April and weekends rest of year; cosmic-themed mural on ceiling; outdoor patios; live bands.
Morada da Praia do Rosa – Rua Geral da Praia do Rosa (Praia do Rosa); 011-55-48-3355-7342;
Sapore di Pasta – Caminho do Alto do Morro; 011-55-48-3355-6100;

Vila do Trinta
Varanda – 130 Rua Major Costa; 011-55-81-3619-1546; seafood.

São Luis
Sights & Sites
Lençóis Maranhenses National Park – Barreirinhas; 011-55-98-3349-1267;; known as Brazilian Sahara; 155K hectares; rains 3 times more than in African desert; rainy season, from November-June, so intense that creates enormous temporary crystalline fresh water lagoons; golden and white sand meadows, constantly shifting shape, extend around oases; along 90 kms littoral, beautiful, deserted, and extended beaches are linked; some dunes resemble mountains up to 40 ms h and sometimes cluster along 50 ms of beaches and inland deserts; lagoons, whose surfaces undulate with strong trade winds, range from blue-turquoise to green-emerald; vegetation limited to relatively small area where mangrove reach up to 12 m h; diverse fauna, such as blue-winged cassin’s auklet, woodcutter deer, southern spectacle caiman, and paca; no roads, so use sports utility vehicle; most common accesses are through Atins, Barreirinhas, and Bella Balsa, or through Sucuriju; worth seeing are: Blue Lagoon; Boa Esperanca Lagoon; Bonita Lagoon (beautiful natural pool that keeps its waters perennially); and Santo Amaro Lagoon.


(includes South Shore (Ashland, Bayfield, Brule, Iron River, Madeline Island, Port Wing & Superior))

Hotel Chequamegon – 101 Lake Shore Drive West (Ashland); 715-682-9095 or 800-946-5555;; modeled on Mackinac Island; lakeside rooms offer unparalleled views of Bayfield Peninsula.
Rittenhouse Inn – 301 Rittenhouse Avenue (Bayfield); 715-779-5111 or 888-611-4667;; grand dame of city’s bed&breakfasts.

Anchor Bar & Grill – 413 Tower Avenue (Superior); 715-394-9747; hamburgers.
Black Cat Coffee – 211 Chapple Avenue (Ashland); 715-682-3680; organic, fair trade coffee.
Egg Toss Bakery Café – 41 Manypenny Avenue (Bayfield); 715-779-5181;; great breakfasts.
Ethel’s at 250 – 250 Rittenhouse Avenue (Bayfield); 715) 779-0293;; try whitefish liver pizza.
Gabriele’s German Cookies & Chocolate – 413 West Main Street (Ashland); 715-682-2114;; try almond crescent cookies or Berliner Brot confections.
2nd Street Bistro – 201 East Main Street (Ashland); 715-682-6444;; 715-682-6444; excellent food; nightly specials and good wine list.
South Shore Brewery – 808 Main Street West (Ashland); 715-682-4200;; try apple ale.
Wild Rice Restaurant – 84860 Old San Road (Bayfield); 715-779-9881;; try wild rice soup (made with smoked chicken and granny smith apples); sophisticated menu.

Blue Vista Farm – 34045 County Highway J (Bayfield); 715-779-5400;; pick berries.

Blue Vista Farm – 34045 County Highway J (Bayfield); 715-779-5400;
Hoth-Lee Art Gallery – 83010 Washington Avenue (Port Wing); 715-774-3117; baskets, photography, and wood carvings.
Oulu Glass – 1695 West Colby Road (Brule); 715-372-4160;; handblown glassware.
Port Wing Pottery – 82980 White Birch Road (Port Wing); 715-774-3222;; wood-fired, handmade ceramics in renovated, 19th Century church.
Trout Run Art Gallery & Ice Cream – 83315 Washington Avenue (Port Wing); 715-774-3799;; paintings, pottery, and wood carvings.
What Goes Around Used Books – 28 South 2nd Street (Bayfield); 715-779-5223;; bookstore with patio and bench to sample wares.
White Winter Winery – 68323 Lea Street (Iron River); 715-372-5656;; mead.

Big Bay State Park – Madeline Island; 715-747-6425;; have to take ferry to get there; beach is worth effort; sunbathers’ paradise.
Raspberry Island – 715-779-3397;; play croquet; lighthouse; 1 of Apostle Islands.