Saturday, July 23, 2011


Café Loisl – 8-8A Tai On Terrace (Blake Garden, on Pound Lane); 011-86-852-9179-0209;; Austrian cafe with outdoor seating; coffee & tea.
Pacific Coffee – 128 Peak Road, Unit G10 (Victoria Peak, in Peak Tower, Level G); 011-852-2849-6608;; chain with numerous locations.
Po’s Atelier – 62 Po Hing Fong (Blake Garden); 011-86-852-6056-8005;; traditional breads and pastries, as well as custom creations.
Upper House – 88 Pacific Place (Queensway); 011-86-852-2918-1838;; for elegant afternoon tea on roof; tremendous views.
Verandah – 109 Repulse Bay Road (Repulse Bay); 011-852-2292-2822;; in colonial building, with tremendous ocean views; good for tea.

Dragon – UG/F, Centrium, 60 Wyndham Street (Central); 011-86-852-3110-1222;; stunning interior design, beautiful wait people; must visit bar.
Habitat Lounge – QRE Plaza, 202 Queens Road, 29th Floor (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2907-0888; relaxed and stylish, with stunning harbor views; creative cocktails.
Lily & Bloom – 33 Wyndham Street; 011-86-852-2810-6166;; excellent for creative cocktails and lounge atmosphere; food not worth much.
M Bar – 15 Queen’s Road Central (at Landmark Mandarin Oriental); 011-86-852-2881-1288;
Ozone Bar – 1 Austin Road West, International Commerce Center, 118th Floor (at Ritz Carlton Hotel); 011-86-852-3760-9000;; tremendous view.
Pawn – 62 Johnston Road (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2866-3444;; take unmarked staircase up to renovated pawn-shop gastropub with balconies for people-watching; must visit, if only for cocktails.
Sevva – 6-14 A Chater Road (Prince Building, 25th Floor); 011-86-852-2537-1388;; bar-restaurant; for views.
Tazmania Ballroom – 1/F LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street (Central); 011-86-852-2801-5009;; lounge and pool hall.
208 Duecento Otto – 208 Hollywood Road (Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2549-0208; rustic Italian bar & restaurant.
Woods – 17 Hollywood Road (Central); 011-86-852-2522-0281; or; at long, narrow staircase bottom, where glass partition rolls back; lighting subdued; interior intimate; laser-cut wood menu reflects well-sourced, elaborate and individual cocktails.

Conrad Hong Kong – 88 Queensway, Pacific Place (Hong Kong Island); 011-86-852-2521-3838;; 40 stories above Victoria Harbor; businessman’s retreat.
Fleming – 41 Fleming Road (Hong Kong Island); 011-86-852-3607-2288;; 66 rooms; high ceilings and indulgent bathrooms; ergonomic office chairs; avoid going when conventions in full throttle; executive suites worth upgrade; good restaurant (Cubix) for tapas and entrecote.
Four Seasons – 8 Finance Street (Hong Kong Island); 011-86-852-3196-8888 or 800-819-5053;
Inter-Continental – 18 Salisbury Road (Kowloon); 011-86-852-2721-1211;; on stilts in Victoria Harbor; red granite Kowloon tower; unrivaled views; 2007 renovation; Alain Ducasse restaurant.
Island Shangri-La – Pacific Place (Queensway); 011-86-852-2877-3838;; 10-minute walk east across Hong Kong park from Peak Tram base.
Landmark Mandarin Oriental – 15 Queen’s Road Central (Hong Kong Island); 011-86-852-2881-1288;; most luxurious hotel in Hong Kong; iconic property recently renovated; across from Star Ferry; spa; spectacular views; go October-May; book Hong Kong harbor-facing room.
Langham – 8 Peking Road (Kowloon); 011-86-852-2375-1133;; open since 1865.
Hotel LKF by Rhombus – 33 Wyndham Street; 011-86-856-3518-9688;; hip; rooftop bar and restaurant.
Mandarin Oriental – 5 Connaught Road (Central); 011-86-852-2522-0111;
Mercer Hotel – 29 Jervois Street (Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2922-9988;; affordably chic boutique.
Peninsula – Salisbury Road (Kowloon); 011-86-852-2920-2888 or 866-382-8388;; European-style décor in neo-classical property; open since 1928; 300 rooms; ask for corner suite.
Ritz-Carlton – 1 Austin Road West, International Commerce Center (Kowloon); 011-86-852-3760-9000;; will be highest hotel in world, on floors 102-118 (with swimming pool on 118th floor).
Upper House – 88 Pacific Place (Queensway); 011-86-852-2918-1838;; understated, residential calmness: bamboo enclosures, limestone and lacquer-papered panels, natural timbers, shoji glass, and water pools.
W Hong Kong – 1 Austin Road West; 011-86-852-3717-2992;

Alfie’s – Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road (Central); 011-86-852-2530-4422;; restaurant run jointly between Dunhill and KEE private members club; this, however, not private; somewhat formal, “power den.”
Aqua – 1 Peking Road, 29-30/F (Tsim Sha Tsui); 011-86-852-3427-2288;; contemporary food; breathtaking view.
Azure – 33 Wyndham Street (at Hotel LKF by Rhombus); 011-86-856-3518-9688;
Bo Innovation – 60 Johnston Road (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2850-8371;; Michelin-starred, purveyor of “molecular gastronomy” (a la Adrian Ferria); one could try the Chinese pork sausage ice cream.
Café Deadend – 72 Po Hing Fong (Blake Garden); 011-86-852-6716-7005;; run by Po’s Atelier’s owners; lovely café with outdoor seating and notable for bad coffee.
Café Loisl – 8-8A Tai On Terrace (Blake Garden, on Pound Lane); 011-86-852-9179-0209;; Austrian cafe with outdoor seating.
Cantopop – 139 Queens Road, L Place (Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2857-2608; farm-to-table approach establishment run by celebrity chef; style called “nouveau cha chaan teng-style teahouse cuisine.”
China Tang – 15 Queen’s Road (Central, at Landmark Atrium, 4th Floor); 011-86-852-2522-2148;; Sir David Tang’s Hong Kong version of his London, Dorchester outpost; classic Cantonese & Sichuan dishes like golden prawns with salted egg yolks & traditional roasted duck; sumptuous East-meets-West decor features Deco-mirrored entry, hand-embroidered wallpaper & eclectic books.
Club Qing – 8-11 Lan Kwai Fong (Central, Cosmos Building, 10F); 011-86-852-2536-9773;; this is “private restaurant” (run out of home); in expat- and tourist-infested area; again, don’t let appearance deceive; excellent.
Cubix – 41 Fleming Road (Hong Kong Island, at Fleming Hotel); 011-86-852-3607-2011;; tapas and entrecote.
Din Tai Fung – 3F Cailan Delicacy, Huangpu Garden (Kowloon, Hung Hom); 011-86-852-23304-886;; excellent café chain that elevates street food into something elegant; try xiaolong bao (soup dumplings).
Dragon – 60 Wyndham Street (Central, UG/F, Centrium); 011-86-852-3110-1222;; stunning interior design, beautiful wait people; dining experience.
Felix – Salisbury Road (Kowloon, at Peninsula); 011-86-852-2920-2888 or 866-382-8388;; fusion cusinie; Philippe Starck-designed interior; located on top floor; strikingly avant-garde; 1st hint Felix is not ordinary dining experience begins with elevator’s wavy walls, which suggest voyage to world beyond, and continues inside restaurant with its huge aluminum wall, glass facades that curve seductively to reveal stunning views, and 2 eye-catching zinc cylinders that resemble gigantic snails and contain cocoon-cozy bar and what may be 1 of world’s tiniest discos (spiraling staircases also lead to bars on top); self-conscious, people-watching setting; reserve window seat on harbor side; dress code is smart casual (no flip-flops or shorts allowed).
Fook Lam Moon – 35/45 Johnston Road (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2866-0663;; more elegant than usual dim sum.
Hong Kong Yung Kee Restaurant – 32-40 Wellington Street (Central); 011-86-852-2522-1624;; famous for its goose; most people go here minute they deplane or just prior to take goose on flight.
Hutong Restaurant – 1 Peking Road, 28th Floor (Kowloon); 011-86-852-3428-8342;; for harbor view from Kowloon side; order “Beggar’s Chicken” (breaking open hardened clay with small hammer is part of fun).
Ka Ho Restaurant – 328Queen’s Road, 1F (Central, Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2815-8133; for lunch.
Lung King Heen – 8 Finance Street (Hong Kong Island, at Four Seasons); 011-86-852-3196-8888;; 2 Michelin stars.
Pawn – 62 Johnston Road (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2866-3444;; gastropub; 3-story building dates to 1888; British classics; dine on rooftop, if possible; Hong Kong’s best kept secret.
Ta Pantry – 2D Star Street, Moonstar Court, Apt. 1C (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-9403-6430;; this is “private restaurant” (run out of home); most “homelike” among Hong Kong’s “private restaurants”; run by former model and her wine-importer brother; unexpectedly excellent.
Pierre – 15 Queen’s Road Central (Hong Kong Island, at Landmark Mandarin Oriental); 011-86-852-2825-4001; chef is Pierre Gagnaire and this is considered 1 of Hong Kong’s top tables.
Sevva – 6-14 A Chater Road (Prince Building, 25th Floor); 011-86-852-2537-1388;; bar-restaurant.
Tosca – 1 Austin Road West, International Commerce Center, 102nd Floor (Kowloon, at Ritz-Carlton); 011-86-852-2263-2270;; southern Italian; note that tremendous view often lost in clouds.
208 Duecento Otto – 208 Hollywood Road (Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2549-0208; rustic Italian bar and restaurant; best pizza and wine pairing in town; has own “mozzarella bar.”
Verandah – 109 Repulse Bay Road (Repulse Bay); 011-86-852-2292-2822;; in colonial building, with tremendous ocean views; good for tea.
Tim Ho Wan – Taui Yuen Mansion, Shop 8, 2-20 Kwong Wa Street (Mong Kok); 011-86-852-2332-2896; world’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant; dim sum.
Yin Yang – 18 Ship Street (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2866-0868;; this is “private restaurant” (run out of home); “best way to describe Yin Yang experience is this: your meal will blow your mind”; 3-story, 1930s colonial-style townhouse; mood is “ancient Hong Kong”; have roast chicken or pork with kumquat sauce; must hace “soup without water.”
Zone D Ristorante – 16 Matheson Street (Causeway Bay, 4th Floor, Room 16); 011-86-852-9802-5504;; this is “private restaurant” (run out of home); owner will send you proposed menu from which you can make selections; hard-to-find and have to walk up 4 floors to unprepossessing doorway (don’t be put off); really superb.

Corner Kitchen – 20 Po Hing Fong (Blake Garden); 011-86-852-2803-2822;; have to arrange in advance; prepares elaborate private meals, typically centering on large roast (e.g., roast Balinese suckling pig).
Ferries – regarding ferries in general, Star Ferry with its wooden seats and noisy diesel engines is more traditional; Aqua Luna is more luxurious (but leisurely) way to go to Kowloon; also, 1-hour trip to Macau well worth it (leave in morning).
Star Ferry – Star Ferry Pier, Man Kwong Street; 011-86-852-2367-7065;; passenger ferry service operator and tourist attraction; principal routes carry passengers across Victoria Harbour, between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon founded in 1888 as Kowloon Ferry Company; 12 ferries travel 2 routes across harbor, carrying over 70K passengers daily; main route runs between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui.
Zhan – 10-18 Po Hing Court, Shop #1 (Blake Garden); 011-86-852-2559-3001;; celebrity hair stylist Ray Chan, along with wife, also runs art gallery and vintage shop on premises.

agnes b – 18 Wing Fung Street (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2869-5505; French designer’s only art gallery outside Paris.
Bernardini – 4-6 On Lan Street, 3rd Floor (VC House); 011-86-852-2540-8595;; Max Bernardini-created, impeccably sourced, gentleman’s quarters where everything is for sale, crocodile flask included; radically different concept in antique shopping; selected range restored pieces, especially restored antique trunks that come with modern fittings inside, as well as rare antique watches that could be customized according to one’s taste and need; Bernardini takes pride in infusing not only new life into trunks, but imagination, each unlocking inevitably accompanied by gasped surprise from stunned visitor: sleek but ordinary suitcase hung on wall opens into hanging bar complete with glassware, Louis Vuitton monogramed specimen transforms into standing boudoir for pampering; store also offers conventional antique choices; like trunks, antique watches adapted with modern touch.
Berry’s Fine Wine Reserve – Prince’s Building, Shop G-5, Mezzanine Floor, 10 Chater Road (Central); 011-86-852-2522-1978;; spirits and wine.
Books Attic – D-1, 7-17 Amoy Street (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2259-3103;; owner serves free tea; Ks 2nd-hand books.
Carnet Jewelry – 119 Prince’s Building, 10 Charter Road (Central); 011-86-852-2805-0113;; Michelle Ong’s atelier.
Commes des Garcons – 10 Ice House Street, Shop 2B (Central); 011-86-852-2869-5906;; Japanese clothing line.
Ann Demeulemeester – 10 Ice House Street (Central); 011-86-852-2526-8250;; clothing.
Empire International – 63 Mody Road, Houston Center, TST East, Shop #6, ground floor; 011-86-852-2367-9423 or 011-86-852-2723-2673;; tailored suit costs about same as off-rack in US.
Gagosian Gallery – 7/F Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street (Central); 011-86-852-2151-0555;; art.
Hammer Gallery – 8-8A Tai On Terrace (Blake Garden, on Pound Lane); 011-86-852-9179-0209;; small space with monthly showings of handmade jewelry; also on premises is Austrian Café Loisl.
Jade Market – Kansu Street at Battery Street (Kowloon); 011-86-852-2508-1234;; stall #278 (Irene’s stall) offers fixed price, no-haggling bargains on fresh water pearls.
Joyce Gallery – 123 Hollywood Road (Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2545; 1869;; art.
Kapok – 5 St. Francis Yard (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2549-9254;; clothing, housewares, and jewelry.
Lane Crawford – Shop 126, 88 Queensway (Admiralty); 011-86-852-2118-3652;; sort of Neiman Marcus for Hong Kong.
Lane Crawford – IFC Mall, Podium 3, 8 Finance Street (Central); 011-86-852-2118-3388;; sort of Neiman Marcus for Hong Kong.
Mr. Blacksmith – 7 Gough Street (Central-Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2581-1110;; curio store with vintage-inspired merchandise.
Museumpark – 28 Gough Street, 1/F Wai On Building (Central-Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2611-9631; antique and used goods; flea market feel.
Ooi Botos Gallery – 5 Gresson Street (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2527-9733; hard to find but worth search; art.
Opera Opera – 14 Gough Street (Central-Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2851-1601;; specializes in vintage denim and uniforms; also, independent Italian designers.
Para/Site Art Space – 4 Po Yan Street (Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2517-4620;; art by emerging artists.
Petit Bazaar – 9 Gough Street (Central-Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2544-2255;; independent French designs for children and young adults.
Gareth Pugh – 10 Ice House Street, Shop 9 (Central); 011-86-852-2801-5332;; goth-rock clothing.
Sam’s Tailor – 90-94C Nathan Road, K&L Burlington Arcade, ground floor (Tsim Sha Tsui); 011-86-852-2367-9423 or 011-86-852-2311-8147;; tailored suit costs about same as off-rack in US.
Rupert Sanderson – 8 On Lan Street (Central); 011-86-852-2530-3391;; shoes.
Space – 210 Hollywood Road (Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-2361-1210;; multimedia art gallery.
Tai Sing Fine Antiques – 12 Wyndham Street (Central); 011-86-852-2525-9365.
Tang Tang Tang Tang – 66 Johnston Road (Wan Chai); 011-86-852-2525-2112;; Sir David Tang’s lifestyle store; designed like Hong Kong apartment.
Vivienne Tam – Landmark, 1 Pedder Street (Central), #309; 011-86-862-2868-2826;; women’s fashion.
Teakha – 18 Tai Ping Shan Street, Shop B (Blake Garden); 011-86-852-2858-9185;; tea-obsessed, former lawyer, Nana Chan travels world to source this shop that also offers cups outside in semi-hidden terrace in back.
Upper Station – 22 Upper Station Street (Sheung Wan); 011-86-852-3486-2474;; photographic art gallery.
Yewn Heritage Jeweller – 15 Queen’s Road Central (#303, 3rd Floor, Landmark); 011-86-852-2868-3890;
Wendy Yue – 21F Peninsula Square, Room 2105-2106, 18 Sung On Street (Hunghom, Kowloon); 011-86-852-2142-8188;; jeweler that specializes in animal designs, particularly frogs.
Zhan – 10-18 Po Hing Court, Shop #1 (Blake Garden); 011-86-852-2559-3001;; celebrity hair stylist Ray Chan, along with wife, also runs art gallery and vintage shop on premises.

Art Museum, Chinese University of Hong Kong – Central Avenue, Sir Run Run Shaw Hall (Sha Tin); 011-86-852-3943-7416;; 2 sections; 1st, 4-floor East Wing Galleries house permanent collection of calligraphy, ceramics, and Chinese paintings; ceramics, as well as jade objets d’art and other decorative arts especially worth inspecting, including 2K year-old bronze seals and large collection jade flower carvings; 2nd, West Wing Galleries stage 5-6 special exhibitions each year; shuttle bus from University station travels through campus to administration building at hill top; for museum, get off at 2nd stop; bus runs every 20-30 minutes daily.
Central Police Station Compound – 10 Hollywood Road (Central Business District); 011-86-852-2966-7259 or 011-86-852-2966-7450 (Hong Kong Jockey Club Charities Trust contact);; arts complex.
Flagstaff House Museum of Tea – 10 Cotton Tree Drive (Central Business District); 011-86-852-2869-0690;
High Junk Peak Country Trail – 1 of best hikes for visitors; runs down peninsula’s spine overlooking Clear Water Bay; not terribly demanding hike that takes about 2.5 hours; goes along ridgeline where to 1 side is new town of Tseung Kwan O, all concrete towers and city scramble, while other side is blue-green bays, fish farms, and isolated villages; to start, take MTR (Mass Transit Railway) to Hang Hau station; then catch taxi for short ride along Clear Water Bay Road to starting point at Ng Fai Tin; small parking lot on road’s other side from trail’s start; and pavilion and signpost mark trail, just past village of Ng Fai Tin; steps lead up to trail; head along any path marked Tai Miu Au or Tai Miu; soon can see High Junk Peak, mountain giving trail name; main path skirts around hill but can scramble on 1 of dirt tracks leading up it, to area’s highest point; there, appreciate amazing contrast that is Hong Kong; on 1 side, gaze past Ks of shoebox-size apartments, looking over Tseung Kwan O all way to Kowloon, Victoria Harbor, and Hong Kong island’s skyscrapers; after passing High Junk Peak, take left down to Clear Water Bay Road, where can pick up minibus or taxi, or continue hiking to Tai Miu; takes near Clear Water Bay Golf & Country Club’s entrance; few 100 yards down Clear Water Bay Road is Po Toi O, traditional fishing village with Cantonese seafood restaurants and interesting Taoist temple on way into village; in Po Toi O, try Seafood Islands Restaurant (No. 6, G/F., Po Toi O; 011-86-852-2719-5730); then head back to city.
Hong Kong Light Show – every night at 8 pm; lasts 13 minutes; multicolored lights run along skyscrapers; best viewing spot may be Avenue of Stars, Kowloon Boardwalk (facing Hong Kong); can also watch while dining at Aqua or Hutong restaurants.
Hong Kong Museum of Art – 10 Salisbury Road (Kowloon, in Tsim Sha Tsui); 011-86-852-2721-0116;; calligraphy, paintings, and sculpture from China, Hong Kong, and other parts world.
Hong Kong Park – 19 Cotton Tree Drive (Central Business District); 011-86-852-2521-5041;; 8 hectares; modern design and facilities blend with natural landscape; cliffs, ponds, streams, and waterfalls (involving artificial rocks); make sure to see Museum of Tea Ware (10 Cotton Tree Drive, 011-86-852-2869-0690,
Livelihood Place – 74 Stone Nullah Lane (Wan Chai, at Blue House); 011-86-852-2835-4376;; offers blend of exhibitions and tours that delve into Wan Chai neighborhood’s history.
Museum of Coastal Defense – 175 Tung Hei Road (Shau Kei Wan); 011-86-852-2569-1500;; stands at Victoria Harbor’s eastern entrance and good place for city introduction; largely undiscovered by tourists, museum actually is half-ruined British fortification series; simple cafe with balcony overlooking South China Sea is delightful (limited menu - get grilled cheese); to get there, try taking subway to Shau Kei Wan stop, right outside of which is Tin Hau Temple, dating from 1870s and worth peak; during 3-block walk to museum, you also will pass Tam Kung Temple.
Peak Tram – 1 Lugard Road (Central Business District); 011-86-852-2849-7654;; best to go early in morning; can have breakfast at top; long lines by 10 am (best to get there at 7 am).
University Museum & Art Gallery, University of Hong Kong – 90 Bonham Road (Pokfulam); 011-86-852-2241-5500;
Victoria Peak – 1 Lugard Road (Central Business District); 011-86-852-2849-7654;; when reach terminus, can take hard right onto Lugard Road and stroll around Victoria Peak; about 3/5ths way round mountain, street name changes to Harlech; 2 roads form fairly flat, 2 mile circuit with magnificent views.
Wan Chai District Market – located in north Hong Kong Island; good for photographs of street market scenes.
Yuen Po Street Bird Garden – between Boundary Street, Embankment Road, Prince Edward Road West, and Yuen Po Street; 011-86-852-2302-1762; Chinese-style theme park in which bird-owners wander, carrying their bird cages.

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