Saturday, July 23, 2011

CHARLESTON

(includes Isle of Palms, Mount Pleasant, North Charleston, St. John’s Island & Sullivan's Island)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
City Lights Coffee – 141 Market Street; 843-853-7067; bohemian coffeehouse.
Kudu Coffee & Craft Beer – 4 Vanderhorst Street; 843-853-7186; kuducoffeeandcraftbeer.com.
Sugar Bakeshop – 59½ Cannon Street; 843-579-2891; sugarbake.com; bite-size bake shop; try Lady Baltimore cupcakes (sherry-soaked figs and raisins and topped with meringue icing); walled garden.
EVO Craft Bakery – 1075 East Montague Boulevard (North Charleston); 843-225-1796; evopizza.com; coffee and tea, alongside freshly baked breads and pastries.
Wild Flower Pastry – 73 Spring Street; 843-327-2621; wildflourpastrycharleston.com; famous for sticky buns on weekends; good for take-out breakfast.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Bar at Husk – 76 Queen Street; 843-577-2500; huskrestaurant.com; in beautifully restored, 1843 Queen Anne home.
Belmont Lounge – 511 King Street; 760-213-7356; thebelmontcharleston.com; holy grail of local bars.
Bin 152 – 152 King Street; 843-577-7359; bin152.com; wine bar where even furniture for sale; cheeses, too.
Charleston Grill – 205 Meeting Street (at Charleston Place Hotel); 843-722-4900 or 888-635-2350; charlestonplace.com; staid but live jazz.
City Lights Coffee – 141 Market Street; 843-853-7067; bohemian coffeehouse that also serves wine.
Cypress Lowcountry Grille – 167 East Bay Street; 843-727-0111; magnolias-blosson-cypress.com; home-made charcuterie.
Dig in Park – 1049 East Montague Avenue (North Charleston); 843-225-5201; bestsportsbarcharleston.com; sports bar with huge patio and outdoor grill.
East Bay Meeting House – 160 East Bay Street; 843-723-3446; eastbaymeetinghouse.com; great Hendrick’s cucumber gin and tonic.
Edmund’s Oast – 1081 Morrison Drive; 843-727-1145; edmundsoast.com; Edmund Egan was English-born brewer who came to Charleston in 1760s & started producing beer soon after; hip, loftlike spot; 4 dozen taps, including house beers.
Fig Restaurant – 232 Meeting Street; 843-805-5900; eatatfig.com; excellent bar.
Gin Joint – 182 East Bay Street; 843-577-6111; theginjoint.com.
Griffon – 18 Vendue Range Street; 843-723-1700; griffoncharleston.com; dive bar that is chef-magnet.
Grocery – 4 Cannon Street; 843-302-8825; thegrocerycharleston.com; Bloody Marys at brunch.
Kudu Coffee & Craft Beer – 4 Vanderhorst Street; 843-853-7186; kuducoffeeandcraftbeer.com.
Mercato – 102 North Market Street; 843-722-6393; mercatocharleston.com; live jazz.
O’Hara & Flynn Wine Bar – 225 Meeting Street; 843-534-1916; dark and mysterious interior, live music (quiet, solo singers), well-chosen art deco pieces; great wine list, cheese, and chocolates.
Ordinary – 544 King Street; 843-414-7060; eattheordinary.com; order Royal Bermuda Yacht Club, classic rum drink.
Sparrow – 1078 East Montague Boulevard (North Charleston); 845-744-7753; facebook.com/thesparrowparkcircle; dive bar & live concert venue.



HOTELS
Battery Carriage House Inn – 20 South Battery; 843-727-3100 or 800-775-5575; batterycarriagehouse.com; 11 rooms near White Point Gardens.
Charleston Place – 205 Meeting Street; 843-722-4900, 888-635-2350 or 800-237-1236; charlestonplace.com; set across from famous local craft market; 17th Century Italian mansion-style; Orient Express hotel.
Inn at Middleton Place – 4290 Ashley River Road; 843-556-0500 or 800-543-4774; theinnatmiddletonplace.com; gorgeous; AIA winner.
John Rutledge House Inn – 116 Broad Street; 843-723-7999, 866-720-2609 or 800-476-9741; charminginns.com; modern version of 1700s grand residence, with Italian marble fireplaces, ironwork, and antiques.
Market Pavilion – 225 East Bay Street; 843-723-0500 or 877-440-2250; marketpavilion.com; authentically reproduced; “cascading rooftop pool.”
Planters Inn – 112 North Market Street; 843-722-2345 or 800-845-7082; plantersinn.com; beautiful, classic oasis; 64 rooms, cozy lobby, shaded courtyard, and beloved restaurant; request room 214 for its king-size bed, cool pastels, and soaring ceiling.
Restoration on King – 75 Wentworth Street; 843-518-5100 or 877-221-7202; restorationonking.com; 3 lofts, complete with kitchens; contemporary.
Hotel Vendue – 19 Vendue Range; 843-577-7970 or 800-845-7900; thevendue.com; 3-story inn; narrow, labyrinthine spaces full of antiques & colonial accessories in public areas; guest rooms do not necessarily follow this European model; overflow guests are housed in historic, brick-fronted annex across cobblestone-covered street; restaurant is called Kitchen House (for dinner only); Roof Top Terrace offers complete lunch & dinner menu in more informal atmosphere with panoramic harbor & historic district views; Ethan Diehl art onsite.
Zero George – 0 George Street; 843-817-7900 or 855-242-1864; zerogeorge.com; new addition to hotel community; chic boutique.



RESTAURANTS
Al di La – 25 Magnolia Road; 843-571-2321; aldilarestaurant.com; locally beloved northern Italian trattoria.
Bertha’s Kitchen – 2332 Meeting Street Road; 843-554-6519; soul food; try fried pork chop with tomato-okra soup.
Bowen’s Island Restaurant – 1870 Bowens Island Road; 843-795-2757; bowensislandrestaurant.com; large, screened-in room on 18' stilts, affording views over Folly Creek, home to dolphins; famous for casual seafood.
Butcher & Bee – 654 King Street; 843-619-0202; butcherandbee.com; great sandwiches; lovely herb garden in back.
Carolina’s – 10 Exchange Street; 843-724-3800; carolinasrestaurant.com; landmark in Charleston’s rich culinary history, contemporary approach to Low country cuisine, with local ingredients and classically rooted preparations; restaurant pays homage to its world-renowned predecessor, Perdita’s (1953), with items from original menu.
Caviar & Bananas – 51 George Street; 843-577-7757; caviarandbananas.com; market and restaurant.
Charleston Grill – 224 King Street; 843-577-4522; charlestongrill.com; posh, with touch of Vegas; try pheasant breast.
Circa 1886 – 149 Wentworth Street; 843-853-7828; circa1886.com; seasonal, 5-course, Southern tasting menu.
Coda del Pesce – 1130 Ocean Boulevard (Isle of Palms); 843-242-8570; codadelpesce.com; Italian seafood.
Cork Neighborhood Bistro – 1067 East Montague Boulevard (North Charleston); 843-225-2675; corkbistro.com; small bistro; stylish, young; locavore.
Crosby’s Seafood – 382 Spring Street; 843-937-0029; crosbysseafood.com; for shad fillets.
Cypress Lowcountry Grille – 167 East Bay Street; 843-727-0111; magnolias-blosson-cypress.com; home-made charcuterie.
Dave’s Carry-Out – 42 Morris Street; 843-577-7943; fried chicken and fish.
East Bay Meeting House – 160 East Bay Street; 843-723-3446; eastbaymeetinghouse.com; lunch fare.
Edmund’s Oast – 1081 Morrison Drive; 843-727-1145; edmundsoast.com; hip, loftlike spot for inventive American plates & brunch.
EVO Pizza – 1075 East Montague Boulevard (North Charleston); 843-225-1796; evopizza.com.
Fat Hen – 3140 Maybank Highway (Johns Island); 843-559-9090; thefathen.com; innovative Low-Country French cuisine using freshest local ingredients from Johns Island farming community; notable chocolate cake.
Fig Restaurant – 232 Meeting Street; 843-805-5900; eatatfig.com; local neighborhood restaurant in downtown; serves seasonally-inspired cuisine with commitment to using local products.
Fishnet Seafood – 3832 Savannah Highway (Johns Island, on US 17 south of Charleston); 843-571-2423; look for dilapidated former gas station with large parking lot (where you will dine because there is no place to eat inside); dinners, sandwiches & by-pound fare; brittle-crusted shrimp, local oysters, crab cakes, filets of flounder, bone-in or bone-out croaker, and Jesus (devil) crab.
Glass Onion – 1219 Savannah Highway (Saint Andrews); 843-225-1717; ilovetheglassonion.com; counter-style diner.
Grocery – 4 Cannon Street; 843-302-8825; thegrocerycharleston.com; brunch.
Hank’s Seafood Restaurant – 10 Hayne Street; 843-723-3474; hanksseafoodrestaurant.com; beautiful and beloved.
High Cotton – 199 East Bay Street; 843-724-3815; mavericksouthernkitchens.com/highcotton/charleston; great dark chocolate pudding.
Hominy Grill – 207 Rutledge Avenue; 843-937-0930; hominygrill.com; chef won 2007 James Beard Best Southeastern Chef award; more refined shrimp and grits; make sure to try Classic Coconut cake (unless you’re Todd and you think coconut has same mouthfeel as toenail parings).
Husk – 76 Queen Street; 843-577-2500; huskrestaurant.com; hailed as possibly most important Southern cooking restaurant; in beautifully restored, 1843 Queen Anne home; excellent shrimp and grits; try Benton Bacon Burger (or cheeseburger) or brown butter and red wheat waffles with seared Tennessee foie gras and grilled South Carolina peaches.
Hyman’s Seafood – 215 Meeting Street; 843-723-6000; hymanseafood.com; stand-by, tourist restaurant.
MacIntosh – 479B King Street; 843-789-4299; themacintoshcharleston.com; convivial bistro.
Martha Lou’s Kitchen – 1068 Morrison Drive; 843-577-9583; great fried chicken.
McCrady’s – 2 Unity Alley; 843-577-0025; mccradysrestaurant.com; award-winning, historic restaurant downtown; perhaps better than Husk; Charleston’s oldest restaurant.
Mercato – 102 North Market Street; 843-722-6393; mercatocharleston.com; excellent Italian.
Ordinary – 544 King Street; 843-414-7060; eattheordinary.com; new restaurant by folks that brought Fig; southern seafood.
Peninsula Grill – 112 North Market Street; 843-723-0700; peninsulagrill.com; relaxed “fine dining”; famous for coconut cake.
Slightly North of Broad – 192 East Bay Street; 843-723-3424; also called “SNOB”; Charleston food; try shrimp and grits.
Trattoria Lucca – 41 Bogard Street; 843-973-3323; luccacharleston.com; Italian.
Tristan – 55 South Market Street; 843-534-2155; tristandining.com; in French Quarter Inn; French and Southern, with fois gras pot de crème and “she-crab soup.”
Two Boroughs Larder – 186 Coming Street (Cannonborough-Elliotborough); 843-637-3722; twoboroughslarder.com; market & restaurant; menu changes daily; breakfast sandwiches all day.
Wild Olive – 2867 Maybank Highway (John’s Island); 843-737-4177; wildoliverestaurant.com; traditional Italian design paired with unique 1-of-kind elements creating cozy yet sleek 135-seat dining room and bar; towering, majestic oak twinkls with white light at restaurant entrance, leading through fragrant walkway surrounded by herb gardens and olive trees; guests choose from 3 dining areas to best fit ambiance they desire – lively bar and community table, intimate table in quiet and romantic front dining room, or table in aromatic back dining room with view into bustling kitchen; Italian cuisine; emphasizes fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients; in-house salumeri and house-made past.
Xiao Bao Biscuit – 224 Rutledge Avenue; 843-743-3880; xiaobaobiscuit.com; make sure to try shrimp toast.



SERVICES
Absolutely Charleston – 3427 West Montague Avenue (North Charleston); 843-884-9505; absolutelycharleston.com; ask for Linda Wohlfeil Jones for walking tour.
Architecture Walking Tours – John Paul Huguley (c/o American College of Building Arts, 21 Magazine Street); 843-670-5245; buildingartscollege.us; private, 3-hour tours through city's historic center; with 2 weeks notice, will craft personalized tour.
Gullah Tours – 9 Trachelle Lane; 843-763-7551; gullahtours.com.



SHOPPING
Baked – 160 East Bay Street; 843-577-2180; bakednyc.com; bakery; try Diner Double Dark brownies.
Blue Bicycle Books – 420 King Street; 843-722-2666; bluebicyblebooks.com.
Caviar & Bananas – 188 Meeting Street (at Charleston City Market); 843-577-7757; caviarandbananas.com; food counter.
Charleston Farmers’ Market – Marion Square; 843-724-7309; charleston.sc; Saturday mornings.
Charleston Market Hall & Sheds – 6 Chalmers Street; 843-958-6467; handicrafts in historically significant structure.
Chuma Gullah Gallery – 188 Meeting Street (at Charleston City Market); 843-722-1702; gallerychuma.com; Gullah artists’ works.
Croghan's Jewel Box – 308 King Street; 843-723-3594; croghansjewelbox.com; antigue and modern jewelry.
M. Dumas & Sons – 294 King Street; 843-723-8603; mdumasandsons.com; fine clothing for men and women; seersucker suits.
French Macaroon Boutique – 45 John Street; 843-577-5441; macaroonboutique.com; pastries.
Gita’s Gourmet – 188 Meeting Street (at Charleston City Market); 843-722-8207; benne wafers, jellies, and teas.
Grady Ervin – 313 King Street; 843-722-1776; gradyervin.com; men’s clothing.
Hampden Clothing – 314 King Street; 843-724-6373; hampdenclothing.com; opened by former Neiman Marcus buyer; high-end couture.
Heirloom Book Co. – 123 King Street; 843-722-6377; heirloombookcompany.com.
Indigo & Cotton – 79 Cannon Street; 843-718-2980; indigoandcotton.com; southern gentleman’s boutique.
Indigo Blue – 4 Vendue Range; 843-723-2983; indigohome.com; local artists’ work and some clothing.
Magar Hatworks – 57 Cannon Street; 843-345-4483; magarhatworks.com; by appointment; exclusive, bespoke millinery
Mary Norton – 318 King Street; 843-724-1081; marynorton.com; Italian handbags.
Middleton Place Plantation – 4300 Ashley River Road; 843-556-6020 or 800-782-3608; middletonplace.org; short distance from downtown; National Historic landmark; cypress swamps, marshes, kayaking.
Read Brothers – 593 King Street; 843-723-7276; readbrothers.com; open since 1912; bewildering goods array.
Ben Silver – 149 King Street; 843-577-4556; bensilver.com; men's and women's clothing and eyewear.
Two Boroughs Larder – 186 Coming Street (Cannonborough-Elliotborough); 843-637-3722; twoboroughslarder.com; market & restaurant; menu changes daily; breakfast sandwiches all day.



SIGHTS & SITES
Angel Oak – 6888 Angel Oak Road; enormous, 400 year-old oak.
Avery Research Center for African-American History & Culture – 125 Bull Street; 843-953-7609; avery.cofc.edu; galleries and other public spaces housing permanent displays and installations; art exhibits, book signings, jazz performances, lectures, poetry readings, and receptions.
Boone Hall Plantation – 1235 Long Point Road (Mount Pleasant); 843-884-4371; boonehallplantation.com; antebellum plantation listed on National Register of Historic Places; includes large Colonial Revival plantation house (1933-35) that replaced lost original house on site, numerous slave cabins (occupied by sharecroppers well into 20th Century), several flower gardens, and historic “Avenue of Oaks,” nearly 1.5 mile drive leading up to house with live oaks on either side, originally planted in 1743; about 10 miles from historic downtown Charleston.
Charleston City Market – 188 Meeting Street; 843-937-0920; thecharlestoncitymarket.com; recently renovated.
Charleston Museum – 360 Meeting Street; 843-722-2996; charlestonmuseum.org.
Drayton Hall – 3380 Ashley River Road; 843-769-2600; draytonhall.org; plantation.
Fort Sumter – 1214 Middle Street (Sullivan’s Island); 843-883-3123; nps.gov/fosu; where 1st shots of Civil War, qua Civil War, fired.
Fort Sumter Visitor Center – 340 Concord Street; 843-883-3123; nps.gov/fosu.
Gibbes Museum of Art – 135 Meeting Street; 843-720-1691; gibbesmuseum.org; drawings and prints from 18th Century to present; genre scenes, landscapes (panoramic Charleston Harbor views), and portraits (check out Thomas Middleton by Benjamin West, Charles Izard Manigault by Thomas Sully, and John C. Calhoun by Rembrandt Peale); 400 miniature portrait collection ranks among country's most comprehensive.
Historic Charleston Foundation – 188 Meeting Street (at Charleston City Market); 843-723-1623; historiccharleston.org; can buy tickets to tour foundation’s 2 houses, each less than mile away.
Magnolia Plantation & Gardens – 3550 Ashley River Road; 843-571-1266 or 800-367-3517; magnoliaplantation.com; plantation.
Middleton Place – 4300 Ashley River Road; 843-556-6020 or 843-628-2879 (for kayaking tour); middletonplace.org; plantation with spectacular gardens; visit to smell magnolias is worth special trip.
Natural History Museum at College of Charleston – 202 Calhoun Street (School of Sciences & Mathematics Building, 2nd Floor); 843-953-5589 (Geology Department Office, must arrange visits in advance); geology.cofc.edu/natural-history-museum; fossils and taxidermy.
Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon – 122 East Bay Street; 843-727-2165; oldexchange.com; among last British-commissioned buildings in Colonies; contains artifacts and paintings from pre-Revolutionary and Revolutionary times.
Old Slave Mart Museum – 6 Chalmers Street; 843-958-6467; nps.gov/history/nr/travel/Charleston; brings slavery to life in horrifying detail.
Park Circle – bounded by Crawford Street and Jenkins & O’Hear Avenues (North Charleston, in City Center); facebook.com/pcncsc; Old House Magazine has named it as among America’s “Best Old-House Neighborhoods”; in neighborhood center is large park with traffic circle in it; inside traffic circle are several ball fields, gazebo, picnic tables, and playground; disc golf course located around traffic circle; every winter, Park Circle comes alive with Christmas holiday decorations; park is adjacent to Old North Charleston Business District on East Montague Avenue; also, Quarterman Park located 2 blocks down Buist Street, southeast of Park Circle.
Seafront Walk – extends from seawall beginning (at site of former Omar Shrine Temple, 40-44 East Bay Street) to intersection of what is now Murray Boulevard & King Street; nationalregister.sc.gov/SurveyReports/HC10006.pdf; stretches along Charleston peninsula lower shores, bordered by Ashley & Cooper Rivers, which meet here to form Charleston harbor; Fort Sumter is visible from Cooper River side (High Battery) & from point, as are Castle Pinckney, WWII aircraft carrier, USS Yorktown, Fort Moultrie & Sullivan’s Island; included among grand houses are: Louis DeSaussure House (1 East Battery), Roper House (9 East Battery), William Ravenel House (13 East Battery),Edmondston-Alston House (21 East Battery), Charles Drayton House (25 East Battery), Villa Margherita (4 South Battery), William Washington House (8 South Battery), Col. John A.S. Ashe House (26 South Battery), James Spear House (30 South Battery), and Col. John Ashe House (32 South Battery).
South of Broadway Theater Company – 1080 East Montague Boulevard (North Charleston); 843-745-0317; southofbroadway.com; South Carolina theater mainstay.
White Point Gardens – Murray Boulevard at East Battery Street; 843-724-7327; pleasing, small park area at city’s peninsula’s tip; nice harbor view on 1 side and big, lovely houses on other; park itself small, with cannons, statues, old oak trees, and bandstand.

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