Saturday, July 30, 2011

KERALA

ALAPPUZHA (Alleppey)
Hotels
Marari Beach – Mararikulam; 011-91-484-301-1711; cghearth.com; 40 miles south of Kochi (Cochin), on pristine sand stretch; 52 thatch-roofed, air-conditioned bungalows, some with private pools; spectacular restaurant.



KOCHI (Cochin)
Bars & Nightclubs
Malabar House – 1/268-1/269 Parade Road; 011-91-48-4221-6666; malabarhouse.com; few minutes walk from waterfront, in Old Cochin’s heart; large and sumptuous rooms; popular restaurant with good bar.
Hotels
Brunton Boatyard – Willingdon Island, Fort Cochin; 011-91-48-4221-5461; casinogroupkerala.com; elegant and spacious property overlooking harbor; built in 17th Century Dutch Colonial style; pleasant pool; 22 luxurious rooms offer spectacular views.
Grande Residencia – 1/373 Princess Street; 011-91-48-4221-8983; abadhotels.com; occupies renovated 19th Century home of 1 of Cochin’s oldest Jewish families; 12 Heritage rooms and 8 Boutique rooms situated around courtyard.
Malabar House – 1/268-1/269 Parade Road; 011-91-48-4221-6666; malabarhouse.com; few minutes walk from waterfront, in Old Cochin’s heart; large and sumptuous rooms; popular restaurant with good bar.
Oberoi M.V. Vrinda – 011-91-48-4266-9595 or 800-562-3764; oberoivrinda.com; 100-foot catamaran; teak-covered dining room, 2 decks, 8 well-appointed, air-conditioned (but tiny) cabins, each with large picture window.
Spice Village – Thekkady-Kumily Road, Thekkady; 011-91-48-4301-1711; cghearth.com; ecoconscious resort of 50 or so bungalows outside Periyar National Park; excellent restaurant; beautiful, British-era bar.
Restaurants
Dal Roti – 1/293 Lilly Street; 011-91-48-4221-7655; good and inexpensive, North Indian food; small, plain environment; no alcohol.
David Hall – Parade Grounds East, Fort Kochi; 011-91-48-4221-8298; art café and exhibition space in 300 year-old building.
Fort House – 2/6A Calvathy Road; 011-91-48-4221-7103; hotelforthouse.com; well-known, harborside restaurant with excellent food at extremely reasonable prices; try “ladyfingers” (lightly fried okra) and seerfish in green mango sauce; no alcohol.
History – Willingdon Island, Fort Cochin; 011-91-48-4221-5461; casinogroupkerala.com; located at Brunton Boatyard Hotel; extensive menu; try chuttulli meen (mullet marinated in onions and spices, served with coconut-flavored rice, traditional Jewish dish); alcohol served.
Kashi Art Cafe – Burgher Street, Fort Cochin; 011-91-48-4221-5769; kashiartgallery.com; small cafe-restaurant.
Old Port – 16 River Road; 011-91-48-4221-5341; Northern Indian cuisine – especially fish tandoori; customers choose their own fish, which then is prepared with garlic and ginger.
Sights & Sites
David Hall – Parade Grounds East, Fort Kochi; 011-91-48-4221-8298; art café and exhibition space in 300 year-old building.
Kashi Art Cafe – Burgher Street, Fort Cochin; 011-91-48-4221-5769; kashiartgallery.com; art gallery.
Kerala Kathakali Centre – K.B. Jacob Road (Fort Kochi, near Santa Cruz Bazilica); 011-91-48-4221-5827; kathakalicentre.org; Kathakali performances.
Munnar – former British hill station with sprawling tea plantations, just 80 miles from Cochin (now Kochi).
Paradesi Synagogue – Jew Town; also known as Cochin Jewish Synagogue or Mattancherry Synagogue; built in 1568 by Malabar Yehudan people (Cochin Jewish community); paradesi is word used in several Indian languages, literally meaning is “foreigners,” and applied to synagogue because historically used by “White Jews,” mixture of Jews from Cranganore, European exiles, and Middle East; only 1 of 7 area synagogues still in use; complex has 4 buildings; shares common wall with Mattancherry Palace temple.
Periyar – best-known wildlife sanctuary in south India, 120 miles from Cochin (along narrow, single-lane highway).



KODUNGALLUR
Sights & Sites
Muziris – Pattanam; ancient Greco-Roman trading center; archaeological project.



KOVALAM
Bars & Nightclubs
Sky Bar – Kovalam Beach Road (at Leela Kempinski Kovaolam Beach Hotel); 011-91-47-1305-1234; theleela.com; great place to watch sunset.
Hotels
Leela Kempinski Kovaolam Beach Hotel – Kovalam Beach Road; 011-91-47-1305-1234; theleela.com; luxurious.
Vivanta Taj Hotel – G.V. Raja Vattapara Road; 011-91-47-1248-7733; vivantabytaj.com/Kovalam-Kerala.
Sights & Sites
Singing Fishermen – on beach next to what locals call “Taj Green Cove Hotel” (Vivanta by Taj), local fishermen sing while they shore-fish in early morning; must see moment.



TELLICHERRY (Thalassery)
Hotels
Ayisha Manzil – Court Road (Kozhikode); 011-91-49-0234-1590; home on colonial estate turned into hotel; guesthouse with 6 high-ceilinged rooms; beach nearby and various excursions available; also, cooking classes.



THATTEKAD
Hotels
Hornbill Camp – Kochi; 011-91-48-4209-2280; thehornbillcamp.com; bird-watching base; excellent food.
Sights & Sites
Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary – Kothamangalam; 011-91-48-5258-8302; thattekkad.com; mosaic of 11 habitats packed into about 50 square miles.



VECHOOR
Hotels
Philipkutty’s Farm – Kottayam District; 011-91-482-927-6529; philipkuttysfarm.com; 5 bungalows, which can accommodate up to either 3 or 6 guests; on island in “Backwaters,” near popular tourist destination of Kumarakom; Spartan and homey.

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