BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Vinilo – 448 Avenida Almirante Montt (Cerro Alegre); 011-56-032-223-0665; sandwiches & chocolate-and-raspberry cake.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Cinzano – 1182 Plaza Aníbal Pinto (El Plan); 011-56-032-221-3043; barcinzano.cl; crooners & sailors have been propping themselves up on cluttered bar here since 1896.
●Pajarito – 1433 Salvador Donoso (El Plan); 011-56-032-225-8910; beber.cl/donde-ir/bar-pajarito-valparaiso; artsy porteños in their 20-30s cram formica tables at this laid-back, old-school bar to talk poetry and politics over beer & piscola.
●SaborColor – 561 Templeman (Cerro Concepcion); 011-56-032-259-8472; lovely renovation of aging private home; good place for evening cocktails.
●El Trole – 93 Cumming (El Plan); 011-56-032-249-4438; eltrole.cl; interior designed like trolley car; water-front windows.
●Vinilo – 448 Avenida Almirante Montt (Cerro Alegre); 011-56-032-223-0665; sandwich shop & bakery during day; bar at night.
●Casa Higueras – 133 Calle Higuera (Cerro Alegre); 011-56-032-249-7900; casahigueras.cl; in former English residence.
●Hostal Morgan – 784 Capilla (Cerro Alegre); 011-56-032-211-4931; hostalmorgan.cl; homey, family-run B&B offering 5 antique-filled rooms.
●Hotel Manoir Atkinson – 165 Paseo Atkinson (Cerro Concepcion); 011-56-032-327-5425; hotelatkinson.cl; 7 rooms (1 is suite); cozy and bright, with stunning views.
●Hotel Palacio Astoreca – 149 Monte Alegre (Cerro Alegre); 011-56-032-327-7700; hotelpalacioastoreca.com; boutique hotel in mansion built in 1923 by Croatian immigrant Francisco Petrinovic, who had made fortune in mining and shipping; in grand Victorian style, with intricate ornamental interiors (e.g., sweeping central staircase) & shocking-salmon-pink exterior; sensitively renovated by noted Chilean architect Mathias Klotz; 23 rooms, with tremendous views over Valparaiso Bay & UNESCO-designated colorful stacked houses; antique furnishings re-covered with modern fabrics, groovy European wallpaper, rustic pillows, rugs, and blankets woven by Andean artisans.
●Resort San Alfonso del Mar – 8830 Avenue Kennedy (Algarrobo); 011-56-02-2412-2570; sanalfonso.cl/ingles/main.html; world’s largest swimming pool, covering 20 acres.
●Alegre – 149 Monte Alegre (Cerro Alegre, at Hotel Palacio Astoreca); 011-56-032-327-7700; hotelpalacioastoreca.com; young chef, Sergio Barraso, worked at El Bulli & Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel; Spanish modernism focused on local ingredients; try quinoa risotto & king crab “cannelloni” in avocado sauce.
●La Concepcion – 541 Papudo (Cerro Concepcion); 011-56-032-249-8192; restaurantlaconcepcion.cl; local products; good lunch spot; in 19th Century house and outdoor dining; try walnut-crusted ostrich.
●Casino Social J Cruz M – 1466 Condell (El Plan, enter off corner of Bellavista & Edwards); 011-56-032-221-1225; liquid paper graffiti covers tabletops and windows at this tiny café, tucked away down narrow passageway; forget about menus, there are 2 options here: chorrillana (French fries under fried egg, onion & pork blanket) and/or desmechada (stewed beef).
●Delicatessen Emporio – 383 Urriola (Cerro Concepcion); 011-56-032-233-9373; 7 tables and closet-sized kitchen; excellent tapas.
●Espíritu Santo – 392 Hector Calvo (Cerro Bellavista); 011-56-032-327-0443; hosteriaespiritusanto.cl; Chilean cuisine, like duck with lentils and vegetables.
●Le Filou de Montpellier – 382 Almirante Montt (Cerro Alegre); 011-56-032-222-4663; lefiloudemontpellier.cl; 3-course lunches at this cluttered bistro are worth staying on extra day (rabbit stew, beef bourguignon & sauce-laced fish are mainstays); always, always leave room for whatever chocolate-based dessert is on the menu.
●Pasta e Vino – 352 Templeman (Cerro Concepcion); 011-56-032-249-6187; pastaevinovalparaiso.cl; reservations recommended; nationally acclaimed; housemade bread and pasta; duck ravioli is decadent.
●Pizzeria Napoletana – 510 Lautaro Rosas (Cerro Alegre); 011-56-032-259-4851; affable owner Marco & wife make great pizzas & gnocchi.
●Poblenou – 476 Urriola (Cerro Alegre); 011-56-032-249-5245; poblenou.cl; tiny, candle-lit spot focusing on Spanish-style tapas, Chilean wines, and cocktails.
●El Rincon de Pancho – 125 Avenida Uruguay, 2nd level (El Plan, in Mercado Cardonal); 011-56-032-222-8531; restaurantes.emol.com/restaurant/el-rincón-de-pancho-2791; seafood spot with hearty portions; crab ceviche.
●Café Vinilo – 488 Almirante Montt (Cerro Alegre); 011-56-032-223-0665; cafevinilo.cl; bohemian, Old World atmosphere with cracked tiles and marble dining counter; wine and Chilean-influenced bistro fare; vinilo means “vinyl” and staff plays scratchy, old jazz records until 2:00 a.m.; excellent cappuccinos.
SIGHTS & SITES
●Ascensores – ascensoresvalparaiso.org; possible to spend hours riding 15 ascensores (funicular elevators) built 1883-1916; lead up into hills and meander back alleys; Ascensor Concepción is city’s oldest (Cerro Concepción is especially beautiful), Ascensor El Peral leads to Fine Arts Museum, and Ascensor Cordillera to Museo del Mar Lord Cochrane; stunning vistas; (1) Artillería (Cerro Artillera, from Plaza Wheelwright up to Paseo 21 de Mayo); (2) Barón (Cerro Baron, from Avenida España up to Avenida Diego Portales); (3) Concepción (Cerro Concepción, from Calle Prat up to Paseo Gervasoni); (4) Cordillera (Cerro Cordillera, from Calle Serrano up to Plaza Eleuterio Ramírez); (5) El Peral (Cerro Alegre, from Plaza de Justicia up to Paseo Yugoslavo); (6) Espíritu Santo (Cerro Bellavista, from Calle Aldunate up to Calle Rudolph); (7) Florida (Cerro Florida, from Calle Carrera up to Calle Marconi); (8) Larraín (Cerro Larraín, from Calle Eusebio Lillo up to Paseo Hermanos Clark); (9) Lecheros (Cerro Lecheros, from Calle Eusebio Lillo up to Calle Lecheros); (10) Mariposas (Cerro Mariposas, from Calle Gaspar Marín up to Paseo Barbosa); (11) Monjas (Cerro Bianchi, from Avenida Baquedano up to Calle Bianchi); (12) Polanco (Cerro Polanco, from Calle Almirante Simpson up to Calle Latorre); (13) Reina Victoria (Cerro Concepción, from Calle Elías up to Paseo Dimalow); (14) San Agustin (Cerro Cordillera, from Calle Tomás Ramos up to Calle Canal); (15) Van Buren (Cerro El Litre, from Patio central del Van Buren up to Parte alta del Van Buren); & (16) Villaseca (Cerro Playa Ancha, from Avenida Antonio Varas up to Pedro León Gallo).
●Biblioteca Santiago Severín – Plaza Simón Bolivar (El Almendral); 011-56-032-221-4600; ciudaddevalparaiso.cl/inicio/patrimonio_archivosmuseos_detalle.php?id_cat=283; established in 1873; holds 80K volumes; current building built 1912-19, but damaged during February 27, 2010 earthquake and later restored.
●Castillo Wulff – Avenida La Marina (Viña del Mar); 011-56-032-226-9728; patrimoniovina.cl/index.php?ir=pags/det_nuestracasa.php; squat-looking Castillo Wulff hangs half over sea; skip through art exhibitions to tower at back, where you can peer through thick glass floor at rocks and waves below.
●Cerro Concepción – corner of Calles Carreño & Prat (access by Ascensor Concepción (also known as Ascensor Turri), across from Reloj Turri (Clock Tower)); among Valparaíso’s most delightful neighborhoods, with brightly painted corrugated iron facades & pitched roofs.
●Fine Arts Museum (Palacio Baburizza) – Paseo Yugoslavo (Cerro Alegre); 011-56-032-225-2332; facebook.com/palaciobaburizza.valparaiso; built in 1915 by merchant Ottorino Zanelli & 1916 acquired by Pascual Baburizza (merchant, shipowner, shipping businessman in Punta Arenas & philanthropist); important collection European paintings (1840-1930), as well as Latin American collection.
●Iglesia Matriz – Plaza Matriz (El Plan); 011-56-032-221-4876; lamatriz.cl; Valparaíso’s historic core, directly uphill from Mercado Central, where distinctive hills’ architecture starts to take shape; church is national monument dating from 1842 (4th church to occupy this site since original chapel in 1559).
●Jardín Botánico Nacional – Camino El Olivar (Viña del Mar); 011-56-032-267-2566; jardin-botanico.cl; over 3K plant species on 61 parkland hectares.
●Museo de Arqueología e Historia Francisco Fonck – 4 Norte 784 (Viña del Mar); 011-56-032-268-6753; museofonck.cl; original moai (Easter Island statues) stand guard outside; inside, archaeological finds from Easter Island, along with Mapuche silverwork and anthropomorphic Moche ceramics; upstairs are old-school insect cases and lively explanation of how head-shrinking works (finished examples included).
●Museo del Mar Lord Cochrane – 195 Merlet (Cerro Cordillera); 011-56-032-221-3124; capitalcultural.cl/p4_cc/site/artic/20050128/pags/20050128124109.html; built in 1842 for Scottish naval hero Lord Thomas Cochrane (who set up Chile’s navy), but never occupied by him; tile-roofed, colonial-style house above Plaza Sotomayor; held Chile’s 1st astronomical observatory; few exhibits, but patio has stunning harbor view.
●Museum of Natural History – 1546 Condell (El Plan); 011-56-032-257-441, 011-56-032-450-405, or 011-56-032-459-056; museodevalparaiso.cl; 1st regional museum & 2nd oldest in Chile; open since 1878 in Lyon Palace; natural sciences, history, archeology & anthropology; also, 2-headed baby in formaldehyde.
●Parque Cultural Ex-Cárcel – 471 Calle Carcel (Cerro Carcel); 011-56-032-225-8567; pcdv.cl; prison that gave this hill its name closed in 1999; crumbling cellblock & exercise yard remains still stand, decorated with huge graffiti; grass-roots cultural center.
●La Sebastiana (Pablo Neruda House) – 692 Ferrari (Cerro Bellavista); 011-56-032-225-6606 (reservations) or 011-56-032-223-3759; fundacionneruda.org; Bellavista’s most famous resident artist was Pablo Neruda, who watched annual New Year’s fireworks from this house; heart-stopping harbor views; best of all from Neruda’s crow’s nest study; can wander around La Sebastiana at will, lingering over chaotic collection of ship’s figureheads, glass, 1950s furniture & artworks by his famous friends.