Thursday, July 28, 2011


Yachts & Friends – 1-3 Bath Court (London, at Warner Street); 011-44-020-3514-6775;; arranges Dalmatian Coast trips.

Bars & Nightclubs
Abakus – 12 Frana Supila (at Excelsior Hotel); 011-385-020-430-831;; piano bar.
Library Bar – 6 Vlaha Bukovca (at Villa Dubrovnik); 011-385-020-500-300;; tremendous clifftop location.
Sky Bar – 6 Vlaha Bukovca (at Villa Dubrovnik); 011-385-020-500-300;; tremendous clifftop location.

Dubrovnik Sun – 1 Na Moru (Radisson Blu Resort & Spa); 011-385-020-361-500;
Excelsior Hotel – 12 Frana Supila; 011-385-020-430-831;; elegant Art Deco opulence (built in 1913, expanded in 1960s, completely renovated in 1998, updated in 2006, and reconstructed from wall studs in 2008); guest rooms, whether in new or old parts, include windows with St. Johnfs Port and sea views; bathrooms have wraparound windows and L’Occitaine toiletries.
Pucic Palace – 1 Od Puca; 011-385-020-326-222;; Old Town’s only luxury hotel; former nobleman’s home (1700s), meticulously restored with wooden-beamed ceilings, wrought-iron balustrades, and lustrous green marble; corridors lined with glass cases displaying antiquities, walls hung with valuable artworks (on loan from city museums); each room (19) named after famous Croatian artist, musician, or poet; comfortably modern and conveniently located; highs include facts that 1 of only 2 hotels in Old Town, no need for car, charming, gracious, and helpful staff, arguably Croatia’s most luxurious and stylish hotel, and swanky private beach 5-minute walk away; lows include facts that because within Old Town walls, no sea views from lower floors, rooms smallish for price, no spa, and closest parking several blocks away, outside car-free city walls.
Villa Dubrovnik – 6 Vlaha Bukovca; 011-385-020-500-300;; surrounded by citrus and pine trees; luxury modern design on beautiful Dalmatian Coast, with Adriatic Sea and Dubrovnik Old City views, latter accessed by complimentary, daily speed boat service; high-tech spa, terrace restaurant, and 2 bars.

Gil’s – Svetog Dominika; 011-385-020-322-222;; French fusion; stunning views.
Lucin Kantun – Od Sigurate (Old Town); 011-385-020-321-003; Croatian tapas; clean and crisp, simple furnishings and mainly white interior; marinades of lobster, octopus, salmon or various hot dishes, plus, cheeses, hams, and other tempting nibbles; homemade cake for dessert.
Panorama – Mount Srdj; 011-385-020-312-664;; at cablecar station; jaw-dropping view over Old Town, Lokrum Island and, off to right, sunset.
Satu – 12 Frana Supila (at Excelsior Hotel); 011-385-020-430-831;; sushi bar.

Sights & Sites
Onofrio de la Cava Fountain – square past Pile Gate; built in 1438-1444 by Neapolitan architect Onofrio de la Cava; most well-known Dubrovnik monuments, this is most well-known; originally designed with 2 stories, fountain lost its 2nd story in 1667 earthquake; part of city’s original water supply system, designed to move water from Dubrovacka River.

Sights & Sites
Plitvice Lakes National Park – Plitvicka Jezera; 011-385-099-596-8418;; both 1 of southeast Europe’s oldest parks & Croatia’s largest, with 16 interlinked lakes between Mala Kapela Mountain & Plješivica Mountain; lakes are surrounded by lush forests & waterfalls, whose waters have deposited travertine limestone barriers for years to create the natural dams.

Bars & Nightclubs
BB Club – Hvar Harbor (on waterfront, at Riva, Hvar Yacht Harbor Hotel); 011-385-21-750-750;; best bar with view over bay and outdoor seating.
Carpe Diem – Riva Center (on wharf); 011-385-021-742-369;; rave-y dance club.

Podstine – 11 Put Podstina (Hvar Island); 011-385-021-740-400;; boutique hotel.
Riva, Hvar Yacht Harbor Hotel – Hvar Harbor (on waterfront); 011-385-021-750-750;; in century-old building; redone inside into sleek, modern look; on water.

Bonj “Les Bains” – Hvar Harbor (on waterfront, at Riva, Hvar Yacht Harbor Hotel); 011-385-021-750-750;; 1930s seaside establishment refurbished as luxury club; best view.
Café Pjaca – main square (Hvar Island); 011-385-021-741-966;; best breakfast.
Gariful – 21 Riva; 011-385-021-742-999;; small family business with large international reputation; waterfront location is Lonely Planet’s #5 destination for 2012; renowned for fresh seafood, outstanding wine & Champagne list, aquarium floor, and complete dining experience.
Juri Podrum – Donja Kola (Jelsa); 011-385-021-765-448.
Konoba Luviji – 6 Jurja Novaka (Hvar Island); 011-385-021-741-646;; small, family-run, seafood restaurant.
Stari Mlin – 3 Petra Kunicica (Stari Grad); 011-385-021-765-804; simple food.
Yaksa – on waterfront, towards Spanish Fort; 011-385-091-277-0772;; Mediterranean fusion.
Zlatna Skoljka – Petra Hektorovica 8, (on waterfront, towards Spanish Fort); 011-385-098-168-8797; “slow food”; local.

Sights & Sites
St. Klement – Palmizana; “arty,” high-class holiday camp; newly expanded marina, Adriatic Croatia International Club; botanical garden surrounding restaurant, Dagmar’s Place, which is excellent.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral – city center; unremarkable triple-aisled church with nice 17th Century bell tower; quite few late Renaissance paintings and nice wooden 16th Century choir area.

Hotel Korcula De La Ville – 5 Obala Dr. Franje Tudjmana; 011-385-020-726-336;; built in 1912, hotel retains only facade & sea views; refurbished in 2015; great views.
Hotel Korsal – 80 Setaliste Frana Krsinica; 011-385-020-715-722;; family friendly residence; modern minimalism; views over harbor; not super luxe.
Lesic Dimitri Palace – 1-6 Don Pavla Pose; 011-385-020-715-560;; on island; 18th Century bishop’s home; 6 guest residences; ask for Venice Suite.
Pension Marinka – Lumbarda; 011-385-098-344-712;; simple rooms set within lovely gardens surrounding Bire winery; close to beach; can ask for self-catering apartment with balcony.

Adio Mare – 2 Marka Pola; 011-385-020-711-253;; long-standing local favorite; lobster & seafood in general; notable for black cuttlefish risotto; try to reserve roof terrace table.
Filippi – Setaliste Petra Kanavelica; 011-385-020-711-690;; traditional dishes in prized location; duck is specialty.
Konaba Gera – Stela Segedin (Zrnovo); 011-385-020-721-280;; outdoor eating adjacent to organic farm.
Konaba Komin – 26 Setaliste Petra Kanavelica; 011-385-020-716-508;; sea wall views & succulent peka dishes (lamb or octopus cooked in fire under huge bell-shaped dome).
Konaba Maslina – Lumbarajska Cesta (near Lumbarda); 011-385-020-711-720;; roadside tavern near beach resort; serves island dishes found nowhere else: pogaca (grilled vegetables on foccacia, covered in melted cheese) & pasticada (rich meat stew).
Konaba Mate – 28 Pupnat (10 miles west of Korcula); 011-385-020-717-109;; simple dishes, often macaroni based.
Konoba Račiška – 1 Setaliste Petra Kanavelica; 011-385-099-315-1350;čiška/238339459532579; seafood.
LD Terrace – 1-6 Don Pavla Pose; 011-385-020-715-560;; elegant dining; sophisticated interior offers view on high when weather too inclement to eat outside, overlooking sea wall.

Cukarin – Ulica Hrvatske Bratske Zajednice; 011-385-020-711-055;; bakery; worth special trip.
Eko Skoj – 38 Put Svetog Nikole; 011-385-099-683-4749 or 011-385-098-280-104; or; treasure trove of liqueurs, oils & vinegars.

Sights & Sites
Frano Milina Bire – Lumbarda; 011-385-098-344-712;; vineyard; by appointment only.
Korcula Town Museum – Trg Svetog Marka; 011-385-020-711-420;; large collection of displays relevant to Korcula history, skills & crafts; permanent exhibition of Korcula’s sculptor Frano Krsinic (1897-82), though pretty soon this collection is going to be transferred to recently renovated Arneri palace (next to Museum).
St. Mark’s Cathedral & Treasury – Trg Svetog Marka; 011-385-020-711-049; dominating town square, this magnificent 15th Century cathedral is built from Korčula limestone in Gothic-Renaissance style by Italian & local artisans; sculptural detail of facade is intriguing, particularly naked squatting figures of Adam & Eve on door pillars & 2-tailed mermaid & elephant on triangular gable cornice at very top; bell tower is topped by balustrade & ornate cupola, beautifully carved by Korčulan Marko Andrijić; inside, nave soars 30m in height & is lined with twin colonnade of exposed limestone pillars; look out for ciborium, also carved by Andrijić; behind it altarpiece painting Three Saints by Tintoretto; another painting attributed to Tintoretto (or his workshop), Annunciation, is by baroque altar of St Anthony; painting by Venetian artist Jacopo Bassano in apse of southern aisle; next to Cathedral is Treasury; more than just collection of priestly vestments & church silver; small but exquisite collection of religious art through ages; star attraction is altarpiece by 15th Century Dalmatian painter Blaž Jurjev, showing Madonna flanked by saints; also small but exquisite alabaster panels from 15th Century Nottingham depicting Kiss of Judas & Flagellation of Christ; & 19th Century statuette of Mary Queen of Scots that opens its skirts to reveal (wholly chaste) diorama within.

Sights & Sites
Coastal Road – among Mediterranean’s most beautiful drives; 23 miles.
Mljet National Park – between Polace and Pomena;; beautiful park with Benedictine monastery in it; worth special visit.

Mondo Konoba – 1 Barbacan; 011-385-052-681-791; sits on slope outside medieval city’s gate; fantastic, old world food in tavern-style restaurant with tremendous location.

Sights & Sites
Lapidarium – 8a Veliki Trg (Cittanova); 011-385-052-726-582;; open-air museum (modernits structure) housing objects from 5th Century sarcophagi to Croatian Hapsburg tablets.

Stella Maris – Govedari (Otok Mlijet); 011-385-020-744-059; game and seafood; worth trip.

Sights & Sites
Benedictine Monastery of St. Mary – 12th Century on little island in lake on island.

Sights & Sites
Archaeological Museum of Istria – 3 Carrarina Ulica; 011-385-052-218-603 or 011-385-052-218-609;
Roman Arena – Amfiteaterska Ulica; 011-385-52-219-028; coliseum visible from sea; smaller than Rome’s coliseum but in much better shape and more accessible; see newly restored underground chambers and their exhibits featuring Istrian history.

Hotel Lone – 31 Luje Adamovica; 011-385-052-632-000;; stark, white hotel inspired by Yugoslavian design.

Sights & Sites
Krka National Park Croatia – Lozovac; 011-385-022-201-777;; several places of interest (footpaths, sightseeing tours & presentations, boat trips, souvenir shops, museum, restaurants & archeological remains: Čučevo, Nečven, Bogočin, Ključica and Burnum); Skradinski buk is among most attractive parts; massive, clear, natural pool with high waterfalls at one end and cascades at other (lowest of 3 sets of waterfalls formed along Krka River); actually consists of 17 waterfalls (considered to be among most beautiful calcium carbonate waterfalls in Europe); Roški Slap, located near Miljevci, is 2nd most popular attraction; cascades can be visited throughout year; most attractive way to reach Roški Slap is to take excursion boat operated by Krka National Park, although can be reached by public road; Visovac Island, founded during reign of Louis I of Hungary, home to Roman Catholic Visovac Monastery founded by Franciscans in 1445 near Miljevci village; park also includes Eastern Orthodox Monastery Krka founded in 1345; island can be visited by boat tour from Skradinski buk.

SPLIT (Spalato, includes Ciovo Island)
Bars & Nightclubs
Laganini Beach Club – Uvala Duboka (Ciovo Island); 011-385-091-883-1093;

Hotel Marmont – 13 Zadarska; 011-385-021-308-060;
Hotel Vestibul Palace – 4 Ulica Iza Vestibula; 011-385-021-329-329;; Small Luxury Hotel.

Laganini Beach Club – Uvala Duboka (Ciovo Island); 011-385-091-883-1093;

Calvados Club – Palmoticeva 27 (Split); 011-385-021-494-949;; will arrange transport to island; also can arrange other services, such as private wine-tasting tours of local vineyards.

Sights & Sites
Cathedral of St. Duje – 14 Ulica Zrinjsko-Frankopanska; 011-385-021-319-517 or -523;; church complex formed from Imperial Roman mausoleum (Diocletian), with bell tower; church dedicated to Virgin Mary and bell tower to St. Duje.
City Museum – 1 Papaliceva; 011-385-021-344-917;
Diocletian Palace – Old Town;; in fact, cannot “see” Diocletian Palace; rather, entire city is built within it.
Klis (Clissa) Castle – near Split; fortress 1st constructed in 7th Century; once imposing, still affords spectacular views.
Northern Façade – part of Diocletian’s Palace; tiny Chapel of St. Martin built above it in 12th Century (near Porta Aurea, directly above “Golden Door”).

Konoba Bakus – 5 B. Angeli Radovani; 011-385-020-754-270;; this town center cafe offers extraordinary seafood, including oysters.

Sights & Sites
Camerlengo Castle & St. Mark’s Tower – Kula fortress (Fortress St. Marko) built in mid-15th Century by Marin Radoj as part of Veriga Tower expansion, built on site in late 14th Century; as part of defense system, fortress surrounded by ditch filled with sand; inside walls are well and other structures for withstanding long sieges; St. Mark’s Tower on fortress’ north end built shortly after castle in Renaissance style, roof once ringed with guns to repel invaders.
Cathedral of St. Lawrence – 11 Trg Ivan Pavla; built on earlier church site (destroyed by medieval invaders); construction on current church began in late 12th Century, but not completed for decades; in variety of styles (Gothic, Mannerist, Romanesque); triple-nave among Trogir’s singular buildings; inside Orsini Chapel is cathedral’s principal feature; numerous statues in tableau-like scene include St. John of Trogir’s coffin.

Bars & Nightclubs
Bar Lola – 12 Matije Gupca (Vis Island); 011-385-095-849-7932;; chic; beautiful setting on water.

Host Island – north side of this rocky island is littered with ancient amphorae.
Ploče – caves & walls with fun swim-throughs at 30-100"; look for massive spider crabs & scorpionfish; sometimes monk seals.
Stupisce Rock – 130 foot wall; among biggest collection yellow gorgonians in Europe.
Teti – near Mali Barjak Island; Italian ship built in 1883 and sunk in 1930; cobblestones spill from hull; look for octopus.
Vassilios T – massive, 250 foot Greek merchant ship that sunk in 1939; huge propellors covered in sponges.

Hotel San Giorgio – 2 Petra Hektorovica; 011-385-2171-1362;

Konoba – 12 Matije Gupca (Vis Island); 011-385-095-849-7932;; chic; beautiful setting on water; great seafood.
Konoba Stoncica – Stoncica Bay; 011-385-021-711-952; organic smallholding & restaurant run by 4 Lincir brothers; best approached by boat along glassy inlet dotted with stone moorings; ramshackle pavilion on secluded beach; in front are pergolas with tables beneath; alongside is stone construction housing wood-fired oven & charcoal grill; food prepared in peka, cast-iron dome placed over coals, used to slow-roast, for example, lamb, kid & potatoes.
Mala Trovna – harbor (Vis Island, in Komiza); 011-385-099-525-803 or 011-385-091-733-3299 (must call ahead); among Croatia’s most romantic restaurants; accessible only by boat; owned by Chef Senko Karuza, who may ask you to assist in washing dishes.
Roki’s – Plisko Polje; 011-385-021-714-004; call ahead and reserve peka (fish or meat stew with vegetables, cooked all day in cast-iron dome over open fire).

Manta Dive Center – 33 Vukovarska (Komiza); 011-385-098-265-923;; can take diving on ancient shipwrecks.
Alternatura – 011-385-021-717-239 (Pino Vojkovic);; bespoke island tours by 6th generation native.

Sights & Sites
Archeological Museum of Town of Vis – 12 Setaliste Vis Boj; 011-385-021-711-729; fascinating collection, with especially interesting ancient Greek treasures.
Blue Cave – Bisevo Island; eerie blue light seeps in through exterior hole underwater.
Fishing Museum – Komiza (Vis Island); housed in monumental Venetian castle built in 16th Century (spindly clock tower added later); dominates harbor’s south end.
Gospa Gusarica – Komiza; renaissance church built in late 16th Century; in front of great, pebbled beach.
Mount Hum – hike up to tiny chapel offering panoramic views over Dalmatian archipelago.
Vino Lipanović – Vis Island; 011-385-021-711-932;; winery housed in cave that was once army installation under Marshll Tito.

Sights & Sites
Dusan Dzamonja Sculpture Park – 5 Valcanella; 011-385-052-445-260;; rolling field covered with Dzamonja’s abstract figures.

Bars & Nightclubs
Arsenal – Trg tri bunara; 011-385-023-253-833;; one-stop shop for fashion, drinks, food, and live shows.
Brazil Bar – Prilaz hrvatske citaonice 1; 011-385-091-208-5561; tranquil bar open day and night with terrace near Riva (seaside promenade) and “Sea Organ” (combination art, musical architecture, and science project that won 2006 European Prize for Urban Public Space).
Garden – Bedemi zadarskih pobuna b.b.; 011-385-023-250-631;; combines Bohemian chic with outdoor lounge area atop city walls with “day beds”; opened by UB40 drummer, James Brown, and British music producer, Nick Colgan.
Maya Pub – Liburnska obala 6; 011-385-023-251-716; on harbor; café by day and dance club at night.

Hotel Bastion – Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13; 011-385-023-494-950;; within Old Town’s medieval walls; classically furnished with wellness center.
Villa Hresc – Obala kneza Trpimira 28; 011-385-023-337-570;; 3 floors of suites and spacious rooms, some with sea views and terraces.

Arsenal – Trg tri bunara; 011-385-023-253-833;; one-stop shop for fashion, drinks, food, and live shows.
Café Sveti Lovre – on square; café with glass and stone with St. Lawrence Church in back.
Konoba Skoblar – Trg Petra Zoranica b.b.; 011-385-023-213-236; trattoria specializing in grilled fish and seafood.
Maya Pub – Liburnska obala 6; on harbor; café by day and dance club at night.
Seafood Restaurant Fosa – Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2; overlooks romantic Fosa Harbor; high-end seafood.

Arsenal – Trg tri bunara; 011-385-023-253-833;; one-stop shop for fashion, drinks, food, and live shows.

Sights & Sites
Church of St. Donat – Simuna Kozicica Benje (town center); 011-385-023-250 516; 9th Century.
Forum – football-field-sized public square designed in 1st Century BCE and founded by Augustus, as shown by 2 stone inscriptions about its completion dating from 3rd Century; largest on Adriatic Sea’s east side.
St. Anastasia Cathedral – Trg Sveti Stosije 1; 011-385-023-251-708 Dalmatia’s largest church; Romanesque cathedral built during 12th-13th Centuries; facade is interesting because of 3 doors, arches, and rose windows; detached 15th Century bell tower – climb to top to take in great city view.
St. Mary’s Convent – Trg Kralja Kresimira IV; 011-385-023-611-576; founded in 1066; Orthodox church built on Roman temple; 3 naves; Byzantine era gold and silver artworks, along with paintings and sculpture, etc.

Bars & Nightclubs
BP Club – Teslina 7; 011-385-01-481-4444;; cozy basement jazz joint run by Bosko Petrovic, septuagenarian vibraphone master and Croatian Jazz patriarch; reservations recommended.
Caffe Bar Cica – Tkalciceva 18.
Purgeraj – Park Ribnjak 1; 011-385-01-482-9253;; best live music option; secluded deep in Ribnjak Park.

Hotel Dubrovnik – Gajeva 1; 011-385-01-486-3555;; dates back to 1929; sleek wooden furniture fine service; excellent location.
Regent Esplanade – Mihanoviceva 1; 011-385-01-456-6666;; 1925 Art Deco property built for Orient Express passengers; within walking distance of anything important.

Bulldog – Bogoviceva 6; 011-385-01-400-2070;; coffeeshop for breakfast with outdoor seating.
Didovsan – Mletacka 11; 011-385-01-485-1154;; means “grandfather’s dream”; is konoba, Dalmatian-style tavern, serving specialties; beware of eel and frog stew; try didova tava, normal stew.
Eli’s Caffe – Ilica 63; 011-385-091-527-9990;; under sign that reads “Simply Luxury Coffee”; coffee shop.
Ivica I Marica Patisserie & Restaurant – Tkalciceva 70; 011-385-01-482-8999;; named after Croatia’s version Hansel & Gretel; delicious apple strudel and carrot cake; all made with no white flour or white sugar.
Klub Gastronomada – Jurisiceva 1; 011-385-01-482-0200;; intensely local and seasonal; gastronomical “laboratory.”
Millennium – Bogoviceva 7; 011-385-01-481-0850;; sweet shop; try schwarzwald (mixture of cream, Cognac, chocolate, and cherries).
Restaurant Kerempuh – Kaptol 3; 011-385-01-481-9000;; good for lunch; overlooks Dolac’s northwest corner; daily specials; try grilled seabass with grasevina (white wine).
Vinodol – Teslina 10; 011-385-01-481-1427;; mainstay since Tito; vaulted brick dining room and ivy-clad patio; grilled fish and meats.

Dolac – Zagreb’s main fresh market; Sunday-Friday, 6 am-2 pm; 3 pm on Saturdays; cheese, flowers, honey, lavender, nuts, and seasonal fruits and vegetables.

Sights & Sites
British Square – Brianski Trg; antiques market.
Cathedral of Assumption of Blessed Virgin Mary – Kaptol 31; 011-385-01-481-4727; dates from 13th Century CE.
Medvednica Nature Park – 011-385-01-458-6317;; 56K acres of mountain trails towering above Zagreb; filled with chestnuts, deer, foxes, and oaks; hike to Puntijarka hut for lunch.
Mimara Museum – Rooseveltov Trg 5; 011-385-01-482-8100; neo-Renaissance palace; 3K piece collection, ranging from Degas, to Persian tapestries, to Renoir, to Rubens.
Tkalciceva Street – jammed with ateliers, boutiques, and cafes.
Lower Town – 19th Century CE, Hapsburgesque district, dominated by urban parks’ “Green Horseshoe.”
Upper Town – 2 townships: (1) Kaptol, largely clerical population; and (2) Gradec, artists and merchants.
Zagreb City Museum – Opaticka 20; 011-385-01-485-1361;

No comments:

Post a Comment