Monday, July 18, 2011


(does not include Williamsburg)

Palladio Restaurant – 17655 Winery Road (on Barboursville Vineyard grounds); 540-832-7848;; Jefferson himself designed main building (dates to 1814); reservations essential.

City of Charlottesville (includes East Luray & Luray)
Bars & Nightclubs
Miller’s – 109 West Main Street; 439-971-8511; Dave Matthews got his start here, bartending; converted drugstore that retains old apothecary trappings.
Clifton Inn – 1296 Clifton Inn Drive; 434-971-1800 or 888-971-1800;; 18 lush guest rooms and suites on 100-acre property with walking trails, tennis, pool, and hot tub.
Keswick Hall – 701 Club Drive; 434-979-3440 or 888-778-2565;; Orient Express hotel; infinity pool.
200 South Street Inn – 200 South Street; 434-979-0200;; in town center; 19 rooms; stately mansion dating in part to 1852.
Bluegrass Grill & Bakery – 313 2nd Street SE; 434-295-9700; good for brunch; Southern comfort food.
Clifton Inn – 1296 Clifton Inn Drive; 434-971-1800;
Feast – 416 West Main Street; 434-244-7800;; just off main mall; artisanal cheese shop, charcuterie, and gourmet market.
University of Virginia Guides – Pavilion VIII (Lawn); 434-924-3239;; tours around campus, especially re Rotunda.
Sights & Sites
Ash Lawn-Highland – 1000 James Monroe Parkway;; James Monroe’s home; simple farm home that seems lived-in.
Kluge-Ruhe Aboriginal Art Collection – 400 Worrell Drive, Peter Jefferson Place; 434-244-0234;; largest Australian aboriginal art collection outside Australia), which has free, guided tours on Saturdays at 10:30 am.
Luray Caverns – 101 Cave Hill Road (Luray); 540-743-6551;; fusty rock chambers.
Monticello – 931 Thomas Jefferson Parkway; 434-984-9822;
Shenandoah National Park – 3655 US Highway 211 (East Luray); 540-999-3500; Appalachian Trail ( and Skyline Drive.
Southwest Mountains Rural Historic District –; drive along Route 20 to Barboursville, which is “Walton’s” locale; rich in African-American history.
Town Center – mall sided by rows of restored brick buildings, with central plaza and fresco cafés; seems more European than American.
University of Virginia – 104 Midmont Lane; 434-924-7141;; make sure to visit Rotunda, UN World Heritage site.

Sights & Sites
Morefield Mine – 13400 Butlers Road; 804-561-0344;; fee digging mine since 1929.

Craddock Terry Hotel – 1312 Commerce Street; 434-455-1550;; old shoe factory converted into boutique hotel.
Jefferson Street Brewery & Waterstone Pizza – 1309 Jefferson Street; 434-455-1515; and
White Hart Café – 1208 Main Street; 434-455-1659;; home-fried apple pie; open on Sundays.
White Hart Café – 1208 Main Street; 434-455-1659;; café that doubles as bookstore.

Arlington (includes Fort Myer)
Bars & Nightclubs
Bar TNT – 2413 Columbia Pike (Columbia Heights); 703-920-0315;‎.
Hotel Palomar – 1121 19th Street North; 703-351-9170 or 866-505-1001;
Sights & Sites
Arlington House & Woods – 321 Sherman Drive (Fort Myer); 703-235-1530;; formerly Custis-Lee Mansion, Greek revival-style mansion that was once home of Confederate General Robert E. Lee; overlooks Potomac River & National Mall in Washington, DC; during American Civil War, mansion grounds selected as Arlington National Cemetery site, in part to ensure that Lee would never again return home; US has since designated mansion as National Memorial to Lee, mark of widespread respect for him in both North & South; Arlington Woods, located behind Arlington House, contain largest & oldest climax eastern hardwood forest still extant in Arlington County.
Arlington National Cemetery – 1 Memorial Drive (Fort Myer); 703-607-8000 or 877-907-8585;; military cemetery established during Civil War on Arlington House grounds; Arlington House (see above) was former family estate of Robert E. Lee’s wife, Mary Anna (Custis) Lee, who descended from Martha Washington; served by Arlington Cemetery station on Washington Metro system’s Blue Line; more than 300K burials over 624 acres, from American Revolution to Afghanistan & Iraq wars; pre-Civil War dead reinterred after 1900; Arlington shares with Mill Springs National Cemetery, only other open cemetery in system, distinction of being oldest military burial ground in US.

Hot Springs
Homestead – 7696 Sam Snead Highway; 540-839-1766;

Burks Fork (includes Meadows of Dan)
Mabry Mill – 266 Mabry Mill Southeast (Meadows of Dan, Milepost 176); 276-952-2947;; country cooking for breakfast & lunch.
Sights & Sites
Rocky Knob & Mabry Mill – Blue Ridge Parkway Mileposts 169 & 176.2; 828-298-0398; or; self-guiding features restored mill & exhibits on rural life in Appalachia; camping & hiking.

City of Alexandria
Bars & Nightclubs
Restaurant Eve – 110 South Pitt Street; 703-706-0450;; expensive; try hot drink, “Gimme Smore,” Cardenal Mendoza brandy, house-made graham-cracker liqueur, hot chocolate, and marshmallow foam.
Morrison House – 116 South Alfred Street; 703-838-8000 or 866-6628;; 18th Century federal manor house (reproduction); white columns and brick courtyard.
Restaurant Eve – 110 South Pitt Street; 703-706-0450;; expensive.
Satay Sarinah – 512 South Van Dorn Street, #A; 703-370-9672;; Indonesian; anaphalaxis-inducing spiciness.
Vermillion – 1120 King Street; 703-684-9669;; simple, farm-driven, American fare; worth special trip.

Trummer’s on Main – 7134 Main Street (25 miles from DC); 703-266-1623;; regional fare such as suckling pig.

Falls Church
Nhu Lan – 6763 Wilson Boulevard, #14; 703-532-9009;; try tender pork bahn mi.

Ritz-Carlton Tysons Corner – 1700 Tysons Boulevard; 703-506-4300 or 800-542-8680;
Sights & Sites
Great Falls Park – 9200 Old Dominion Drive (McLean, Virginia); 703-285-2965;; overlooks Potomac River; can hike 1.5 mile River trail, which runs along cliffs.

Star Tannery
Pembroke Springs Retreat – 6238 Wardensville Grade; 540-877-2600;; ryokan; large baths filled with natural spring waters; traditional Japanese breakfasts.

Virginia Beach
Sights & Sites
Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge – 1324 Sandbridge Road; 757-301-7329;; established in 1938 in isolated (former) Princess Anne County portion; 9K acres; fresh water refuge borders Atlantic Ocean on east and Currituck Sound Back Bay on west; barrier islands feature large sand dunes, maritime forests, fresh water marshes, ponds, ocean beach, and large impoundments for wintering wildfowl, including migratory birds such as snow geese; refuge adjoins Virginia's False Cape State Park; tram runs through refuge, providing only public access to False Cape State Park other than by bicycle, boat, or foot.
False Cape State Park – 4001 Sandpiper Road; 757-426-7128;; state park on Virginia’s Outer Banks; lies on mile-wide barrier spit between Currituck Sound Back Bay and Atlantic Ocean, shortly north of Mackay Island National Wildlife Refuge; access is through Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge, and limited to bicycling, boating and hiking; sometimes offers tram and beach crawler (known as “Terra Gator”) transportation for day visitors; named for resemblance to Cape Henry when seen from ocean, creating false impression that lured boats and ships into shallow waters, where they could more readily run aground; Wash Woods, now abandoned, was developed by survivors of such shipwreck in 16th or early 17th Century; village’s church and other structures were built using cypress wood that washed ashore from wreck.

Galax (includes Ferrum, Floyd, Hiltons & Marion)
General Francis Marion Hotel – 107 East Main Street; 276-783-4800 or 877-783-4802;; built in 1920s and restored in 2006.
Hotel Floyd – 120 Wilson Street (Floyd); 540-745-6080;; 2 blocks from Floyd Country store; all woodwork done by local artisans.
Floyd Country Store – 206 South Locust Street (Floyd); 540-745-4563;; features local clothing and merchandise, as well as live, traditional Appalachian music.
Sights & Sites
Blue Ridge Institute & Museum – 20 Museum Drive (Ferrum); 540-365-4416;
Blue Ridge Music Center – Blue Ridge Parkway, mile marker 213 (outside Galax); 276-236-5309;; permanent, interactive exhibit and frequent performance calendar (weekly events in summer).
Carter Family Fold – A.P. Carter Highway (Hiltons); 276-386-6054;; non-profit organization, serving old-time country and folk music fans; also honors country music’s 1st family’s memory: Carter Family (A.P. Carter, Sara Carter, and Maybelle Carter); their 1st recordings (in 1927) credited with giving birth to commercial country music industry.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Proper Pie Co. – 2505 East Broad Street; 804-343-7437;; quaint bakery serving rotating menu of New Zealand–style pies with sweet & savory fillings.
Sub Rosa – 620 North 25th Street; 804-788-7672;; wood-fired masonry ovens; try sesame rye; among best bakeries in America.
Urban Farmhouse Market & Cafe – 1217 East Cary Street (Grace Street Corridor); 804-325-3988;; coffee shop in 19th Century storefront; uses locally-sourced, organic ingredients.
Bars & Nightclubs
Camel – 1621 West Broad Street; 804-353-4901;; premier venue for up-&-coming bluegrass and Southern rock bands.
Legend Brewery – 321 West 7th Street; 804-232-3446;; get seat on deck for city views.
Mama J’s – 415 North 1st Street (Jackson Ward); 804-225-7449;; spirited scene.
Hilton Garden Inn Richmond – 501 East Broad Street; 804-344-4300 or 800-445-8667;; in old department store.
Jefferson Hotel – 101 West Franklin Street; 804-788-8000 or 800-424-8014;; grand luxury hotel.
Alewife – 3120 East Marshall Street; 804-325-3426;; among America’s top restaurants; seafood.
Africanne on Main – 200 East Main Street; 804-343-1233;; casual lunch spot, offering pay-by-weight, buffet-style West African, Caribbean & Southern fare.
Brenner Pass – 3200 Rockbridge Street; 804-658-9868;; modern, stylish destination for chef-driven European dining & desserts with craft cocktails & wines.
Comfort – 200 West Broad Street (Downtown); 804-780-0004;; old storefront with pressed-tin ceiling; home to city’s best comfort food; fried catfish, meatloaf, and pulled pork barbecue; try smoky pork tenderloin in bourbon-&-molasses sauce served with braised collard greens and cheese grits.
Dinamo – 821 West Cary Street; 804-678-9706;; petite Italian restaurant; pasta, pizza & seafood; convivial ambiance; great Reubens at lunch.
Kuba Kuba – 1601 Park Avenue; 804-355-8817;; hole-in-wall Cuban restaurant with excellent food.
Longoven – 2939 West Clay Street; 804-308-3497;; refined dining, with tasting & a la carte menus; considered among Richmond’s top restaurants.
Lu-Lu’s – 21 North 17th Street; 804-343-9771;; great for brunch; comfort food; arrive early for bamboo broth & crab & lobster fritters; deep-dish chocolate & peanut butter pie is great.
Mama J’s – 415 North 1st Street (Jackson Ward); 804-225-7449;; Sunday supper menu includes gravy-smothered, baked chicken and towering frosted cakes.
Millie’s Diner – 2603 East Main Street; 804-643-5512;; comfort food in diner setting.
Rappahannock – 320 East Grace Street (Grace Street Corridor); 804-545-0565;; most recent establishment (30-seat oyster bar) owned by cousins whose family has run oyster company for over 100 years.
Urban Farmhouse Market & Cafe – 1217 East Cary Street (Grace Street Corridor); 804-325-3988;; café in 19th Century storefront; uses locally-sourced, organic ingredients.
Riverside Outfitters – 6836 Old Westham Road (across river in Stratford Hills section); 804-560-0068;; leads groups on tree-climbing expeditions along James River, including harnessed walks along limbs 40' above ground and zip-lines.
Accoutre – 13 South 15th Street; 919-793-8937;; cookware.
Art Works – 320 Hull Street; 804-291-1400;; local artists’ gallery.
Boketto Wellness – 106 North Vine Street; 804-354-6707;; holistic pantry, skincare & home items designed with integrity to support modern lifestyles.
Bygones – 2916 West Cary Street; 804-353-1919;; retro ball gowns.
Chop Suey Books – 2913 West Cary Street; 804-422-8066;; comics, Japanese anime, and underground graphic novels.
Dear Neighbor – 2415 Jefferson Avenue; 804-819-1729;; gift shop.
Gallery 5 – 200 West Marshall Street; 804-644-0005;; art gallery in what used to be Virginia’s oldest fire station.
Ghostprint Gallery – 220 West Broad Street (Jackson Ward); 804-344-1557;; high- and low-brow contemporary arts gallery.
Ledbury – 117 South 14th Street (Grace Street Corridor); 804-225-0037 or 888-233-1942;; men’s wear, with emphasis on Virginia made accessories.
Need Supply Co. – 3010 West Cary Street; 804-355-5880;; local t-shirt designs.
Pomona – 2025 Venable Street (Union Hill); 804-269-5395;; thoughtfully curated cafe & retail space.
Quirk – 311 West Broad Street; 804-644-5450;; art gallery.
Steady Sounds – 322 West Broad Street (Jackson Ward); 804-308-2692; airy record store and youth hang-out; vinyl.
Sights & Sites
American Civil War Center – 500 Tredegar Street; 804-780-1865;; interactive museum housed in former munitions factory; tells war story from 3 perspectives: North; Slaves; and South.
Manchester – neighborhood surrounding former MeadWestvaco packaging plant, mazelike structure with 75 lofts and 3 art galleries.
Carytown – half-mile stretch of boutiques, cafes, and vintage clothing stores.
Jackson Ward Neighborhood – historic, African-American neighborhood, prosperous immediately after Civil War but then fell into long decline; now arts district.
Steady Sounds – 322 West Broad Street (Jackson Ward); 804-308-2692; airy record store and youth hang-out; late night comedy acts and visiting band free performances.
Richmond Center Stage – 600 East Grace Street (Grace Street Corridor); 804-592-3400;; renovated former Loew’s movie palace; local and touring acts.

North Neck Peninsula (includes Colonial Beach, Heathsville, Irvington, James Monroe, Kilmarnock, Kinsale, Lancaster, Lively, Montross, Northumberland, Oak Grove, Reedville, Stratford, Warsaw, Weems & White Stone)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Art of Coffee – 15722 Kings Highway (Montross); 804-493-9651;; small eating place and gallery in repurposed filling station.
Hope & Glory Inn – 65 Tavern Road (Irvington); 804-438-6053;; upscale B&B.
Stratford Hall Cottages – 483 Great House Road (Stratford); 804-493-1968;; total of 20 rooms spread through 2 guesthouses (Astor & Cheek), all with private baths and WiFi; both guest houses have comfortable living rooms with satellite TV, central heating & air conditioning; also, Guest Cabins, built in 1930s for Stratford Hall’s Board of Directors’ personal use during its semi-annual meetings; each decorated differently, some more rustic than others; very limited availability.
Tides Inn – 480 King Carter Drive (Irvington); 804-438-5000 or 800-843-3746;; luxury waterfront resort just off Rappahannock River; opened in 1947; sprawling complex consisting of several low-rise buildings on Carter’s Creek’s banks; in clapboard Main Building, dining room and Chesapeake Club lounge both have outstanding views down creek to Rappahannock River; rooms in Main Building have fine views, too, but those in cottagelike Lancaster or Windsor Houses are more spacious and feature large bathrooms, living areas, and, in some cases, balconies overlooking creek; other hotel-style rooms are in East, Garden, and Terrace wings, where ground-floor units have patios; British Raj theme dominates, with ceiling fans and Indian mahogany furniture adorning rooms, and wooden floor-to-ceiling plantation shutters shading some rooms; full-service spa, marina, golf course, and restaurants; men must wear jackets at dinner in main dining room (they’ll lend), but can enjoy same menu in adjacent Chesapeake Club in “resort casual” attire; Premier Sailing School operates here and 127' yacht Miss Ann takes guests cruising.
Whispering Pines Motel – 226 Methodist Church Road (White Stone); 804-435-1101;; renovated in 2008 but, still, this is pool in parking lot motel.
Angelo’s Pizza – 15835 Kings Highway (Montross); 804-493-8694;; much better food than American Legion Hall ambience suggests; unexpectedly good crab cakes.
Car Wash Cafe – 481 North Main Street (Kilmarnock); 804-435-0405;; great crabmeat omelet.
Tri-Star Supermarket – 81 Irvington Road (Kilmarnock); 804-435-3800;; take-out fried chicken.
Virginia Wine Country Information –; provides information about wineries in North Neck area.
Animal Welfare League Thrift – 75 North Main Street (Kilmarnock); 804-435-0822;!__awl-thrift-shop.
Blenheim Organic Gardens – 737 Popes Creek Road (Colonial Beach); 804-224-7039;; certified organic farm created on land held by George Washington’s family since Revolutionary times.
Comer & Co. – 21 North Main Street (Kilmarnock); 804-435-2100;; antiques.
Epping Forest Antiques – 5299 Mary Ball Road (Lancaster); 804-462-7960;; antiques.
Kilmarnock Antiques Gallery – 144 School Street (Kilmarnock); 804-435-1207;; antiques.
Old Farm Truck – 5388 Mary Ball Road (Lively); 804-314-3648;; farm stand open in season.
Lewis Trimble – 15 North Main Street (Kilmarnock); 804-435-7771;; antiques.
Sights & Sites
Belle Isle State Park – 1632 Belle Isle Rd (Lancaster); 804-462-5030;; sits between Deep and Morattico Creeks; 733 acres; boating, fishing, and picnics on peninsula surrounded by Tidewater coastal marshes; wildlife observed includes blue herons, osprey, hawks, bald eagles, and white-tailed deer; includes Georgian style mansion, operated in 19th Century as plantation.
Bush Mill Stream Natural Area Preserve – Virginia Highway 642 (Northumberland); 804-225-2303 (ask for Rebecca Wilson to arrange visit);; at Bush Mill Stream’s mouth, where freshwater meets Great Wicomico River’s saltwater flow; fresh to brackish tidal marshes and mud flats hidden between this upper Coastal Plain stream’s steep-sided forested shores; waterfowl home and resting; also, colonial nesting birds and raptors; large numbers great blue herons; several ancient oaks and large mountain laurel remain in mostly 2nd-growth forest; access can be gained by canoe or foot; trails, boardwalk, wildlife viewing platform, and interpretive signs.
Caledon Natural Area State Park – Route 218 (James Monroe); 540-663-3861;; unique opportunity to view bald eagles in natural habitat; among East Coast’s largest bald eagle concentrations; biking, hiking, and picnicking in mature forest.
Christ Church – 420 Christ Church Road (Weems); 804-438-6855;; only colonial Virginia church that still has original high-backed pews and 1 of 2 that has maintained its original 3-tiered pulpit.
Dameron Marsh Natural Area – Virginia Highway 693 (Kilmarnock); 804-225-2303 (ask for Rebecca Wilson to arrange tour);; 316-acres; contains among most significant wetlands on Chesapeake Bay for marsh-bird communities.
George Washington Birthplace National Monument – 1732 Popes Creek Road (Colonial Beach); 804-224-1732;; originally settled by John Washington, George Washington’s great-grandfather; George Washington born here on February 22, 1732; lived here until age 3, returning later as teenager; at entrance Memorial Shaft obelisk of Vermont marble, which is 1-10th scale Washington Monument replica; park is where Popes Creek joins Potomac River; Memorial House with 18th Century furnishings is open to visitors.
Heathsville – scenic.
Kilmarnock – scenic.
Kinsale – scenic fishing village, now rundown.
Lancaster – scenic with brick federal buildings.
Lively – scenic.
Menokin – 4037 Menokin Road (Warsaw); 804-333-1776;; Francis Lighthouse Lee’s home, saved from ruin and scheduled for innovation preservation.
Mount Airy Plantation – 361 Millpond Road; 804-301-7976 or 804-333-4930;; Tayloe family house and plantation; book tour ahead of time.
Oak Grove – scenic.
Rappahannock River National Wildlife Refuge – 336 Wilna Road (Warsaw); 804-333-1470;; birdwatching venue on Atlantic flyway.
Reedville – scenic fishing village, now rundown.
Route 3 – also known as “History Highway”; runs through area.
St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church – Northumberland Highway (Heathsville); 804-724-4238;
Stratford Hall – historic Robert E. Lee birthplace and plantation; working plantation, historic grist mill, heritage cattle herding; make sure to walk out and see cliffs.
Mary Ball Washington Museum – 8346 Mary Ball Road (Lancaster); 804-462-7280;
Westmoreland State Park – 145 Cliff Road (Montross); 804-493-8821;; extends about 1.5 miles along Potomac River; neighbors former homes of both George Washington and Robert E. Lee; Horsehead Cliffs provide visitors with spectacular Potomac River view.
White Stone – scenic.

Sights & Sites
Oak Hill (James Monroe’s House) – Route 15 (south of Leesburg, 1 mile north of Gilbert’s Corner);; mansion and plantation that was James Monroe’s home for 22 years; main mansion constructed in 1822; Thomas Jefferson, his close friend, may have drawn plans; construction supervised by James Hoban, White House builder and designer; structures remaining from Monroe’s time include main house, cottage, smokehouse, springhouse, blacksmith’s shop, square barn, stone Stallion Barn, and possibly Brick House; now private residence not open to public.

Salamander Resort & Spa – 500 North Pendleton Street; 540-687-3600 or 866-938-7370;; 168 rooms; horse-themed; all new structure built around 100 year-old stables; if intend to use spa, try to book spa suite (located near spa so can wear robe and not walk through public areas); prettiest in fall.
Salamander Resort & Spa – 500 North Pendleton Street; 540-687-3600;; treatment to book is Rider’s Relief (massage).

Wintergreen Resort – Route 664; 434-325-8200 or 800-325-2200;

City of Chesapeake
Chesapeake Campground – 693 US 17 (George Washington) Highway South; 757-485-0149; rents canoes to paddle into Great Dismal Swamp.
Sights & Sites
Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge – Jericho Lane; 757-986-3705;; marshy region on southeastern Virginia’s and northeastern North Carolina’s Coastal Plain; boardwalk right off US 17 (George Washington) Highway South is lovely, tranquil, travel break.

Inn at Willow Grove – 14079 Plantation Way; 540-317-1206;; 14 rooms; luxurious on 37 acres of fallow tobacco fields.
Sights & Sites
Montpelier – 11395 Constitution Highway; 540-672-2728;; James Madison’s plantation estate; manor house is 4 miles south of Orange; estate covers nearly 2.7K acres.

Haley Fine Art – 42 Main Street; 540-987-1000;

Inn at Little Washington – Middle & Main Streets; 540-675-3800;; try to get “Gamekeeper’s Cottage.”

Massanutten Resort – 1822 Resort Drive; 540-289-9441;

Riverstead – 132 East Main Street (130 miles from Winston-Salem); 276-646-8787;
Town House – 132 East Main Street (130 miles from Winston-Salem); 276-646-8787;; 2 former Charlie Trotter chefs operate; beef short ribs.

Sights & Sites
Fredericksburg Battlefield – 1013 Lafayette Boulevard; 540-373-6122;; Stonewall Jackson’s amputated arm buried near visitor center.
Sunken Road Walking Trail – 1013 Lafayette Boulevard; 540-373-6122;; call to see if guided tour available.

Sights & Sites
Crooked Road – 851 French Moore Jr. Boulevard #146; 276-492-2085;; Appalachia “dance and music path.”

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