Monday, July 18, 2011

SANTIAGO

(includes Huelquen, 30 miles outside Santiago)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Hansel y Gretel – 15700 El Refugio (Arrayan, at El Remanso); 011-56-2-321-6073; hanselygretel.cl; German tea salon; great place for fresh air, chirping birds, and apple strudel.

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Baco Vino y Bistro – 116 Nueva de Lyon (Providencia); 011-56-2-231-4444; low-key wine bar in bustling, downtown district.
Bar Constitucion – 6 Constitucion (Bellavista); 011-56-2-244-4569; barconstitucion.cl; indoor and outdoor spaces; attracts young crowd.
Bar Liguria – 19 Luis Thayer Ojeda (Providencia); 011-56-2-231-1393; www.liguria.cl; restaurant by day, swarming social assembly by night; more recent of city’s 2 convivial Bar Ligurias; eternally popular with actors, business people, and writers; bohemian, kitschy atmosphere; rickety tables draped with red-and-white check tablecloths surrounded by floor-to-ceiling maps, memorabilia, paintings, and posters.
Bar Liguria – 47 Avenida Pedro de Valdivia (Providencia); 011-56-2-334-4346; www.liguria.cl.
Bar Liguria – 1373 Avenida Providencia (Manuel Montt); 011-56-2-235-7914; www.liguria.cl.
Fuente de Soda Rapanui – 1397 Avenida Jose Manuel Infante (Italia, at Calle Los Jesuitas corner); 011-56-2-269-6947; barrioitalia.cl/index.php/circuitos/patrimonial/154-fuente-de-soda-rapa-nui; classic tavern dating from 1940s; watch soccer matches and eat comfort food.
Ile Habana – 95 Calle Bucarest (Providencia); 011-56-2-231-5711; ilehabana.cl; old-school dancing and drinks.
Maestra Vida – 380 Pio Nono (Bellavista); 011-56-2-735-7416; maestravida.cl; popular nightclub.
Marco Polo Café – 416 Calle Plaza de Armas (Centro); 011-56-2-671-8484; $2.50 pisco sour.
El Mesón Nerudiano – 35 Calle Dominica (Bellavista, in basement); 011-56-2-737-1542; www.elmesonnerudiano.cl; live jazz 3 nights weekly.
Whiskey Blue – 300 Isidora Goyenechea (Las Condes, at W Hotel Santiago); 011-56-2-770-0000; starwoodhotels.com.
Wine 365 – 15 El Alcalde (El Golf, at Ritz-Carlton Santiago); 011-56-2-470-8500; www.ritzcarlton.com; serves more than 600 of Chile’s best vintages to accompany wide tapas selection.

HOTELS
Aubrey Santiago – 137 Constitucion (Bellavista); 011-56-2-940-2800; theaubrey.com; W-ish 15-room boutique; stylish, with modern and vintage furnishings.
Boulevard Suites – 5749 Avenida Kennedy (Las Condes); 011-56-2-421-5000 or 800-228-9290; www.boulevardsuites.cl; 14 floors of Marriott; 50 oversized, minimalist apartments with dark wood floors, chrome-and-glass living rooms, fully equipped granite kitchens, and wraparound mountain views.
Hotel del Patio – 61 Pio Nono (Bellavista); 011-56-2-732-7571; patiobellavista.cl; creaky 1920s mansion redone with stripped down adobe walls and modern furniture; overlooks newly developed Patio Square; doubles with breakfast start at $120.
Hyatt Regency Santiago – 4601 Avenida Kennedy (Las Condes); 011-56-2-950-1234 or 800-228-9000; www.santiago.regency.hyatt.com; has shed 90s gestalt for 21st Century chic with $6M makeover; 310 rooms (suede curtains, Philippe Starck floor lamps) and mosaic-inlaid pool.
Meridiano Sur – 256 Santa Beatriz (Providencia); 011-56-2-235-3659; meridianosur.cl/en; renovated stucco house in Providencia district; jazzy and modern.
Hotel Boutique Le Reve – 23 Orrego Luco (Providencia); 011-56-2-757-6011; lerevehotel.cl; in historic Santiago’s center; 31 rooms.
Ritz-Carlton Santiago – 15 Calle El Alcalde (Las Condes); 011-56-2-470-8500 or 800-542-8680; ritzcarlton.com; very pretty.
San Cristobal Tower – 100 Josefina Edwards De Ferrari (Lo Espejo); 011-56-2-707-1000; starwoodhotels.com.
W Hotel Santiago – 300 Isidora Goyenechea (Las Condes); 011-56-2-770-0000 or 866-899-8039; starwoodhotels.com.

RESTAURANTS
Astrid & Gaston – 201 Antonio Bellet (Providencia, Magnere); 011-56-2-650-9125; astridygaston.com; reasonably priced Peruvian-style dinners; international chain.
Baco Vino y Bistro – 116 Nueva de Lyon (Providencia); 011-56-2-231-4444; low-key wine bar in bustling, downtown district.
Bar Liguria – 19 Luis Thayer Ojeda (Providencia); 011-56-2-231-1393; www.liguria.cl; bohemian, kitschy atmosphere; large and lofty upstairs dining room; rickety tables draped with red-and-white check tablecloths surrounded by floor-to-ceiling maps, memorabilia, paintings, and posters; ample portions emblematic Chilean meat dishes, as well as some Italian dishes; also, reasonably priced salads and hefty sandwiches; if you’re looking for all-in-one dinner and drinking spot, this is your place.
Bar Liguria – 47 Avenida Pedro de Valdivia (Providencia); 011-56-2-334-4346; www.liguria.cl.
Bar Liguria – 1373 Avenida Providencia (Manuel Montt); 011-56-2-235-7914; www.liguria.cl.
Blackburn Café – 4330 Avenida Alonso de Córdova (Vitacura); 011-56-2-208-9113; for ladies-who-lunch crowd; hosts occasional cooking classes; chic little bistro that is all about pretty food.
Casa Lastarria – 70 Calle Jose Victorino Lastarria (Lastarria); 011-56-2-638-3236; casalastarria.cl; in artsy, downtown district; home-cooked meals in 1930s, Tudor-style building; try eel in almond sauce and/or chicken with cognac.
Casamar – 1480 Avenida Padre Hurtado (Vitacura); 011-56-2-954-2112; casamarchile.cl; under chef Sebastian Maturana, who previously ran Cucina Rustica in Vail; sustainable seafood in bamboo and glass-framed space.
Confitería Torres – 1570 Alameda (Centro); 011-56-2-688-0751; confiteriatorres.cl; 126 year-old downtown landmark; red-leather booths, French doors, and oak bar; bolero singers and tango dancers entertain highbrow weekend crowds; try abalone stew or congrio (conger eel) bathed in picoroco (Chilean shellfish) sauce.
Fuente de Soda Rapanui – 1397 Avenida Jose Manuel Infante (Italia, at Calle Los Jesuitas corner); 011-56-2-269-6947; barrioitalia.cl/index.php/circuitos/patrimonial/154-fuente-de-soda-rapa-nui; classic tavern dating from 1940s; watch soccer matches and eat comfort food; try chorrilana (sirloin served atop scrambled eggs and fries).
Galeria Patricia Ready – 3125 Calle Espoz (Vitacura); 011-56-2-953-6210; galeriapready.cl; café in art complex with secluded courtyard.
El Garage – 4562 Avenida Vitacura (Vitacura, at Museo de la Moda); 011-56-2-218-5500; museodelamoda.cl; in 1960s Modernist mansion; floor-to-ceiling glass walls, colorful art, and light fare.
Hansel y Gretel – 15700 El Refugio (Arrayan, at El Remanso); 011-56-2-321-6073; hanselygretel.cl; great place for fresh air, chirping birds, and apple strudel.
Infante – 51 Avenida José Miguel Infante (Providencia); 011-56-2-264-3357; www.infante51.cl; Basque chef Xabier Zabala prepares perfectly grilled calamari, squid-ink black risotto, and seafood-stuffed eggplant.
La Mar – 3922 Avenida Nueva Costanera (Vitacura); 011-56-2-206-7839; lamarcebicheria.com; Peruvian seafood, especially ceviche.
Mucca – 830 Avenida Italia (Providencia); 011-56-2-635-6710; in former hat factory; aquamarine settees, moody lighting, and martinis make it favorite with actors, models, and local TV personalities.
Santabrasa – 4260 Avenida Alonso de Córdova (Vitacura); 011-56-2-206-4110; redefines classic Argentine parrilla.
034 – 34 Orrego Luco (Providencia); 011-56-2-335-0692; tiny café with funky diner appeal; curved wicker booths and Yankee-inspired classics like carrot cake, waffles, and green-tea lemonade.
Zully – 34 Concha y Toro (Concha y Toro); 011-56-2-696-3990; set in 4-story mansion once home to Chilean poet Vicente Huidobro; social climbers and starlets dine on decadent French-Asian-Chilean fusion (e.g., seared Easter Island tuna with rice noodles and bittersweet black-sesame sauce).

SERVICES
La Bicicleta Verde – 6 Calle Loreto (Bellavista); 011-56-2-570-9338; www.labicicletaverde.com; in addition to renting bicycles, arrange cycling tours around city.
Ameriga Gianonne – 4446 Del Inca (Las Condes); 011-56-9-7905-9144; agstyling.com; stylist; Ms. Giannone helps personalize shopping expeditions.
Revolver Santiago Magazine – santiagomagazine.cl; for club listings.

SHOPPING
Isabel Aninat Galeria de Arte – 3053 Avenida Alonso de Cordova (Vitacura); 011-56-2-263-2729; galeriaisabelaninat.cl; art space that sometimes hosts fashion events.
Antiquarian Mall – 2348 Avenida Providencia (Providencia); numerous, high-end antique stores.
Bravo! – 975 Avenida Italia (Italia); 011-56-2-785-0981; bravo.io; furniture studio.
Bruce Antiguedades – 2348 Providencia (Providencia, at Antiquarian Mall, stall 17); 011-56-2-234-3732; pirate’s cave of antique, South American silver.
Casa de Oficios – 290 Alfredo Rioseco; 011-56-7-569-4874; casadeoficios.cl; airy, large workshop dedicated to teaching traditional crafts (bookbinding, crocheting, and shoemaking).
Chantal Bernsau – 3102 Avenida Alonso de Córdova (Vitacura, 2nd Floor); 011-56-2-494-8955; www.chantalbernsau.cl; jewel-toned silk dresses, blouses, and pants; New Age “chakra-activating” jewelry made of fossils, quartz, and semiprecious gems.
Chocolates Brunatto – 124 Avenida Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins (Curacavi); 011-56-2-836-3114; www.cioccolatos.cl; chocolates and wine; this is where made; can check website for numerous locations throughout city.
Enfit – 4115 Avenida Alonso de Córdova (Vitacura, #3); 011-56-2-288-7183; www.enfit.cl; tiny Brazilian bikinis and their accessories, from pareus to sandals.
La Fete Chocolat – 9 Avenida Presidente Kennedy (Las Condes, at Mall Alto Las Condes, 1st Floor); 011-56-2-963-4912; www.lafetechocolat.com; chocolates; numerous locations throughout city.
Galeria Animal – 3731 Costanera Norte (Vitacura); 011-56-2-371-9090; galeriaanimal.com; local art gallery.
Galeria Patricia Ready – 3125 Calle Espoz (Vitacura); 011-56-2-953-6210; galeriapready.cl; art complex.
Hall Central – 346 Calle Merced (Bellas Artes); 011-56-2-664-0763; hallcentral.cl; stocks up and coming Chilean fashion designers.
Huelquen – 4595 Camino Padre Hurtado (Huelquen); 011-56-2-822-1264; huelquen.com; organic winery.
La Montaña – Fundo el Peumo, Camino Santa Luisa (Huelquen); 011-56-2-264-9846; vinalamontana.cl; book in advance; wine store.
Noon – 4120 Alonso de Cordova (Vitacura); 011-56-2-723-0273; ojoconlamoda.com; Chilean and Swedish fashion lines.
Perez Cruz – Fundo Liguai (Huelquen); 011-56-2-655-1318; perezcruz.com; unusual winery building with curved pillars.
Pura – 5413 Avenida Kennedy (Las Condes, at Parque Arauco, 3rd Floor); 011-56-2-211-7875; purartesanos.cl; finest handicrafts (downy alpaca wraps, woven baskets, and lapis lazuli-inlaid wooden platters) from around the country.
Silvia Obilinovic-Carvajal – 2348 Providencia (Providencia, at Antiquarian Mall, stall 2); 011-56-2-233-7861 or 011-56-2-223-2771; ancient Andean and Mesoamerican figurines.
Tacon Zapatos – 537 Monjitas (Bellas Artes); 011-56-9-9159-8995; taconzapatos.blogspot.com; Luz Principe (Argentinian designer) shoes.
Thala Por Isabel CID – 1007 Calle Rengo; 011-56-9-128-9844; thala.cl; handmade paper.
Trece – 1480 Girardi (Providencia); 011-56-2-223-1394; www.galeria13.cl.
Wool – 4098 Alonso de Cordova (Vitacura); 011-56-2-208-8767; alfombraswool.com; carpets.

SIGHTS & SITES
Bellavista Funicular – 445 Calle Pio Nono (Bellavista); 011-56-2-737-6669; funicular.cl; take to top of Cerro San Cristobal, mountain that overlooks city, with great views.
Centro Gabriela Mistral – 227 Avenida Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins (Lastarria); 011-56-2-566-5500; gam.cl; 200K square foot center made of glass and steel; varied calendar of art exhibits, concerts, dances, and plays.
La Chascona – 192 Fernando Marquez de La Plata (Bellavista); 011-56-2-737-8712; fundacionneruda.org; Pablo Neruda’s eccentric home on San Cristobal Mountain’s slopes; look for Diego Rivera’s portrait of poet’s 3rd wife, Matilde Urrutia, with Neruda’s face hidden in her hair.
Luciano Kulczewski Architecture – Kulczewski is Santiago’s Gaudi; animals, gargoyles, and ironwork; many of his Art Nouveau houses still exist on Alameda (Centro) and on streets around Avenida Manuel Montt (Providencia); specific examples include: (1) “Bellavista Funicular” (above); (2) his home, “Casa de los Torreones,” 201 Avenida Estados Unidos (Providencia), built in 1924; (3) “Piscina Escolar Universidad de Chile” at 983 Avenida Santa Maria (Providencia), built in 1929; (4) “Headquarters of College of Architects of Chile” (originally built as Residencia M. Figueroa), 215 Avenida Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins (Lastarria), built in 1922; (5) “Edificio de la Gargola” 268 Avenida Merced (Bellas Artes), built in 1928; and (6) apartment building, 84 Avenida Merced (Bellas Artes), built in 1928; he also designed Keller subdivisión (Providenica, 1925), Calle Madrid subdivisión (1927), Los Castaños subdivisión (Independencia, 1930), Virginia Opazo subdivisión (1941), Población Militar “Leopoldo Urrutía” (Ñuñoa, 1929).
MAC Espacio Quinto Normal – 464 Matucana (Yungay); 011-56-2-681-8306; www.mac.uchile.cl; 1920s palace; more than 100K' square exhibition space (inside and out).
La Montaña – Fundo el Peumo, Camino Santa Luisa (Huelquen); 011-56-2-264-9846; vinalamontana.cl; book in advance; hiking opportunities.
Museo de Artes Visuales – 307 Calle José Victorino Lastarría (Lastarria, on Plaza Mulato Gil de Castro); 011-56-2-638-3502; www.mavi.cl; showcases 220 Chilean painters and sculptors’ work, from 1960-present.
Museo de Bellas Artes – Parque Forestal (Bellas Artes, at Ismael Valdés Vergara); 011-56-2-639-1946; www.dibam.cl; among Latin America’s oldest museums; Paris’ Musée du Petit Palais replica; rotating exhibitions feature Chilean art from colonial period through 20th Century; sculpture (60 Rodins are on loan from Paris); and Frank Stella’s Moby Dick series.
Museo de la Chileniadad – 1155 Padre Hurtado Sur (Las Condes); lascondes.cl; museum surrounding by sprawling park; permanent collection includes works by Chilean master painters from 19th-20th Centuries, including Pedro Lira.
Museo de la Moda – 4562 Avenida Vitacura (Vitacura); 011-56-2-218-7271; museodelamoda.cl; privately-funded fashion museum in 1960s Modernist mansion.
Museum of Pre-Columbian Art – 361 Calle Bandera (Lastarria); 011-56-2-688-7348; precolobino.cl; located in colonial 1805 customhouse.
Museum of Memory & Human Rights – 501 Calle Matucana (Yungay); 011-56-2-365-1165; museodelamemoria.cl; contemporary concrete, copper, and glass structure; re Pinochet regime.
O’Higgins Park – between Avenidas Beaucheff and Viel (Las Condes); named after Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins, 1 of Chile’s independence fathers; city’s 2nd largest public park.
Patronato – small neighborhood bound by Bellavista, Loreto, Recoleta, and Santos Dumont Streets; known for vintage shops, in particular.
Tren del Vino – runs between Santa Cruz and San Fernando Station (Santiago); 011-56-72-470-7403; www.trendelvinochile.cl; great way to explore wine; 1913 steam engine that leaves from San Fernando every Saturday morning (transfers are also available from Santiago), and chugs through scenic Colchagua Valley, home to wineries; as well as making vineyard visits and tasting wine on board, can stop for lunch at Santa Cruz Plaza Hotel and/or visit Colchagua Museum; trains leave San Fernando Station at 10 am and take around 90 minutes to reach Santa Cruz; (if transferring from Santiago, minibuses leave from Hotel Galerias at 8 am and must prebook by phone or online).
Teatro Municipal – 794 Agustínas (Centro); 011-56-2-463-8888; www.municipal.cl; neoclassical French architectural jewel since 1857 inauguration; has survived divas, earthquakes, and fires of every magnitude.
Viña del Mar – beach community about 90 minutes from Santiago (see separate entry).

No comments:

Post a Comment