Wednesday, July 6, 2011


(includes Fontainebleau-Avon, Meudon, Roissy-en-France, Rueil-Malmaison, Saint-Denis, Saint-Ouen, Sevres & Versailles)

Charles de Gaulle Airport – for food, try Miyou (Guy Martin’s sandwich shop), Terminal 2E,; gourmet fast food in modern setting; creative salads.

1st Arr.
La Bague de Kenza – 136 Rue Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4286-8523;; excellent bakery; serves breakfast, brunch, and lunch.
Cafe Angelina – 226 Rue de Rivoli; 011-33-01-4260-8200;; tearoom; best hot chocolate & dessert (order with creme fouettee on side).
Fouquet’s – 22 Rue François; 011-33-01-4723-3046;; candies (great toffees, called Salvators).
Fouquet’s – 42 Rue Marché St Honoré; 011-33-01-4703-9007;; candies (great toffees, called Salvators).
Gosselin – 125 Rue Sainte-Honore; 011-33-01-4508-0359;; excellent bread.
Eric Kayser – 33 Rue Danielle Casanova; 011-33-01-4297-5929;; other locations; bread and baked goods; great chocolate chip cookies.
Pierre Herme – 4 Rue Cambon; 011-33-01-4354-4777;; extraordinary patisserie; macarons.
Telescope – 5 Rue de Villedo;; great coffee shop.
Yam’Tcha – 4 Rue Saval; 011-33-01-4026-0807;; excellent lunch-time bistro; Chinese-Franco dishes; tea-pairings available.

2nd Arr.
Stohrer – 51 Rue Montorgueil; 011-33-01-4233-3820;; inexpensive; oldest patisserie in Paris.
Zen Zoo – 13 Rue Chabanais; 011-33-01-4296-2728;; tea salon.

3rd Arr. (includes Marais)
La Bague de Kenza – 70 Rue de Turbigo; 011-33-01-4461-0639;; excellent bakery; serves breakfast, brunch, and lunch.
Café Suedois – 11 Rue Payenne; 011-33-01-4478-8011;; excellent hot chocolate.
Patisserie Carette – 25 Place des Vosges; 011-33-01-4887-9407;; melt-in-your-mouth macarons.
Rose Bakery – 30 Rue Debelleyme; 011-33-01-4996-5401; English bakery; not just baked goods but, also, gourmet to-go; open for lunch only.

4th Arr.
La Belle Hortense – 31 Rue Vieille-du-Temple; 011-33-01-4804-7160; cozy, old World-style wine bar; also bookstore and coffee shop.
Dalloyau – 5 Boulevard Beaumarchais; 011-33-01-4887-8988;; chain; centuries-old company; owner-family’s ancestors served Louis XIV at Versailles.
L’Éclair de Génie – 14 Rue Pavée; 011-33-01-4277-8511;; these are otherworldly eclairs and come in untraditional flavors like yuzu lemon and salted caramel.
Florence Kahn – 24 Rue des Ecouffes; 011-33-01-4887-9285;; Jewish bakery, famed for fig strudel.
Maison Berthillon – 29-31 Rue Saint-Louis en I’ile; 011-33-01-4354-3161;; great ice cream.
Mariage Freres – 30 Rue Bourg Tibourg; 011-33-01-4272-2811;; tea.
Mariage Freres – 32 Rue Bourg Tibourg; 011-33-01-4272-5725;; tea.
Mariage Freres – 35 Rue Bourg Tibourg; 011-33-01-4454-1854;; tea.

5th Arr. (includes Latin Quarter)
La Bague de Kenza – 31 Rue Linne; 011-33-01-4587-0204;; excellent bakery; serves breakfast, brunch, and lunch.
Odette – 77 Rue Galande; 011-33-06-2863-6795;; for coffee and cream puffs.
Patisserie Ciel – 3 Rue Monge; 011-33-01-4329-4078;; for airy Japanese angel cakes, savory or sweet, eaten on premises with cup of Jugetsudo green tea.
Patisserie Sadaharu Aoki Paris – 56 Boulevard De Port Royal; 011-33-01-4535-3680;; unusual macarons.

6th Arr. (includes Saint-Germain)
Christian Constant – 37 Rue d’Assas; 011-33-01-5363-1515;; Michelin-starred chocolatier.
Comptoir des Saints-Peres – 60 Rue de Jacob (Rue des Saints-Peres); 011-33-01-4020-0939; served 1st coffee in Paris (1686); art deco interior; good for brunch on Saturday.
Dalloyau – 2 Place Edmond Rostand; 011-33-01-4329-3110;; chain; centuries-old company; owner-family’s ancestors served Louis XIV at Versailles.
Fumoux Gwenael – 48 Rue Madame; 011-33-01-4222-1457; “world’s best” croissant bakery.
Laduree – 21 Rue Bonaparte; 011-33-01-4407-6487;; Rococo-style shrine to choux pastry; macarons.
Pierre Herme – 72 Rue Bonaparte; 011-33-01-4354-4777;; extraordinary patisserie; try macarons.
Le Procope – 13 Rue Ancienne Comédie; 011-33-01-4046-7900;; opened in 1686; coffee breaks every day between 3-6 pm, when place makes itself available to sightseers; once welcomed Diderot, Voltaire, George Sand, Victor Hugo, and Oscar Wilde.
Patisserie Sadaharu Aoki Paris – 35 Rue de Vaugirard; 011-33-01-4544-4890;; unusual macarons.
Poilane – 8 Rue du Cherche Midi; 011-33-01-4548-4259;; bakery.
La Tarte Tropézienne – 3 Rue de Montfaucon; 011-33-01-4329-0981;; for 3-cream brioche-y treat.

7th Arr.
Boulangerie Poujauran – 20 Rue Jean-Nicot; 011-33-01-4705-8088; considered 1 of best bakeries in Paris; vegetarian friendly.
Hugo & Victor – 40 Boulevard Raspail; 011-33-01-4439-9773;; museum-like chocolate and pastry displays.
La Pâtisserie des Rêves – 93 Rue du Bac; 011-33-01-4284-0082;; patisserie.

8th Arr.
Dalloyau – 101 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4299-9000;; chain; centuries-old company; owner-family’s ancestors served Louis XIV at Versailles; macarons.
L’Eclaireur – 40 Rue de Sévigné; 011-33-01-4887-1022;; boutique and restaurant; very chic.
Laduree – 16 Rue Royale; 011-33-01-4260-2179;; Rococo-style shrine to choux pastry; best macarons.
Laduree – 75 Avenue des Champs-Elysees; 011-33-01-4075-0875;; Rococo-style shrine to choux pastry; best macarons.

9th Arr. (includes Pigalle)
Arnaud Delmontel – 39 Rue des Martyrs; 011-33-01-4878-2933;; boulangerie-patisserie; best baguette of 2007.
Fouquet’s – 36 Rue Laffitte; 011-33-01-4770-8500;; candies (great toffees, called Salvators).
KB Cafeshop – 53 Avenue Trudaine (Pigalle); 011-33-01-5692-1241;; coffe & pastries.
Pain Moisan – 7 Rue Bourdaloue; 011-33-01-4874-0455;; bakery with excellent palmiers.
Pousse Pousse – 7 Rue Notre-Dame de Lorette; 011-33-01-5316-1081;; juice bar.
Rose Bakery – 46 Rue Martyrs; 011-33-01-4282-1280; English bakery; not just baked goods but, also, gourmet to-go; open for lunch only.

10th Arr.
Du Pain et Des Idees – 34 Rue Yve Toudic; 011-33-01-4240-4452;; cultish boulangerie in Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood; signature is pain des amis (moist, thick-crusted, wheaty); also try pain au chocolate with banana, escargot chocolat-pistache (snail-shaped pastry filled with chocolate and pistachio), and mini-pavés (savory knots stuffed with spinach and goat cheese).
HolyBelly – 19 Rue Lucien Sampaix; 011-33-09-7360-1364;; charming, Aussie-style cafe that serves good coffee and barley hashbrowns.
Ten Belles – 10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles; 011-33-01-4240-9078;; for morning coffee, this roastery serves some of city’s best coffee, as well as rotating menu of decadent desserts, salads, and sandwiches.

11th Arr.
La Bague de Kenza – 106 Rue Saint-Maur; 011-33-01-4314-9315;; excellent bakery that also serves breakfast, brunch, and lunch.
La Bague de Kenza – 173 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine; 011-33-01-4341-4702;; excellent bakery that also serves breakfast, brunch, and lunch.
La Patisserie by Cyril Lignac – 24 Rue Paul Bert; 011-33-01-4348-1950;; contemporary interpretations of classic Parisian pastries.

12th Arr.
Ble Sucre – 7 Rue Antoine Vollon (Square Trousseau); 011-33-01-4340-7773;; madeleines and kouign amann.
Boulangerie Moisan – 5 Place d’Aligre; 011-33-01-4345-4660;; excellent palmiers.
Raimo – 59-61 Boulevard de Reuilly; 011-33-01-4343-7017;; among Paris’ oldest ice cream shops.

14th Arr. (includes Montparnasse)
Boulangerie Moisan – 4 Avenue Gén Leclerc; 011-33-01-4707-3540;; excellent palmiers.
Moulin de la Vierge – 105 Rue Vercingetorix; 011-33-01-4543-0984;; bakery.

15th Arr.
La Bague de Kenza – 233 Rue de la Convention; 011-33-01-4250-0297;; excellent bakery that also serves breakfast, brunch, and lunch.
Pierre Herme – 185 Rue de Vaugirard; 011-33-01-4354-4777;; extraordinary patisserie; try macarons.
Poilane – 49 Boulevard de Grenelle; 011-33-01-4579-1149;
Patisserie Sadaharu Aoki Paris – 25 Rue Pérignon; 011-33-01-4306-0271;; unusual macarons.

16th Arr.
Boulangerie Bechu – 118 Avenue Victor Hugo; 011-33-01-4727-9779; striking art deco bakery with starburst light fixtures and 1930s mirrors; famous for pain au chocolat.
Maison Boissier – 184 Avenue Victor Hugo; 011-33-01-4503-5077;; chocolates, spices, and teas; open since 1827.
Patisserie Carette – 4 Place du Trocadero; 011-33-01-4727-9885;; melt-in-your-mouth macarons.
Talmaris – 61 Avenue Mozart; 011-33-01-4288-2020;; called world’s smallest department store; treasures from around world.
20 Sur 20 – 3 Rue des Lavandieres Saint-Opportune; 011-33-01-4508-4494;; costume jewelry dating from 40s-60s; serious bargain prices.

17th Arr.
Arnaud Delmontel – 25 Rue Lévis; 011-33-01-4227-1545;; boulangerie-patisserie; best baguette of 2007.
La Bague de Kenza – 26 Rue Poncelet; no telephone available;; excellent bakery that also serves breakfast, brunch, and lunch.

18th Arr.
Arnaud Delmontel – 57 Rue Damrémont; 01133-01-4264-5963;; boulangerie-patisserie; best baguette of 2007.
Boulangerie Toro – 59 Rue d’Orsel;; 011-33-01-4223-6281; bakery.
Gontran Cherrier – 22 Rue Caulaincourt; 011-33-01-4606-8266;; boulangerie.
Au Levain d’Antan – 6 Rue des Abbesses; 011-33-01-4264-9783;; 2011’s “best baguette” competition winner.
Au Duc de la Chapelle – 32 Rue Tristan Tzara; 011-33-01-4038-1898;; bakery.

20th Arr.
La Flute Gana – 226 Rue des Pyrenees; 011-33-01-4358-4262;; bakery.

Boulangerie Morieux – 35 Rue d’Aguesseau; 011-33-01-4110-9436;; artisanship in bread form.

1st Arr.
Le Baiser Sale – 58 Rue des Lombards (near Chatelet); 011-33-01-4233-3771;; where famous musicians regroup after midnight to jam until 4:00 a.m.
Le Garde-Robe – 41 Rue de l’Arbre Sec; 011-33-01-4926-9060;; scruffy; focuses on independent, French, natural wines; edibles from cheeses to cured meats.
Bar Hemingway – 15 Place Vendome (at Ritz Hotel); 011-33-01-4316-3030;; recently renovated with Hemingway photography collection; drinks run around $45.
Verjus – 52 Rue de Richelieu; 011-33-01-4297-5440;; American wine bar.

2nd Arr.
Coinstot Vino – 26 bis Passage des Panoramas; 011-33-01-4482-0854;; walk down quirky, covered passage-way to find; cozy wine bar for early evening drinks and nibbles.
Drouant Sa – 16-18 Place Gaillon; 011-33-01-4265-1516;; open since 1818; wrought-iron staircase; smart business to dressy.
Experimental Cocktail Club – 37 Rue Saint-Sauveur (Montorgueil); 011-33-01-4508-8889;; rustic-chic space designed by New Yorker, Cuoco Black, whose restaurants include Gin Lane.
Club Silencio – 142 Rue Montmartre; 01133-01-4028-0555;; live music, disco and funk especially; members only.

3rd Arr. (includes Marais)
Andy Wahloo – 69 Rue Gravilliers; 011-33-01-4271-2038;; vaulted, orange-lit room decorated with kitschy Arabic film posters.
Pavilion de la Reine – 28 Place des Vosges; 011-33-01-4029-1919;; plush lobby library is among Paris’ best locations for breakfast or drink.
Wini June – 16 Rue du Petit-Thouars; 011-33-01-4461-7641; nestled in hip, minuscule boite that looks like cultivated living room; regularly filled with small crowd of insiders, quietly sipping cocktails and occasionally nibbling bits of foie gras and cheese.

4th Arr.
La Belle Hortense – 31 Rue Vieille-du-Temple; 011-33-01-4804-7160; cozy, old World-style wine bar; also bookstore and coffee shop.
La Cave à Bulles – 45 Rue Quincampoix (ear Pompidou Center); 011-33-01-4029-0369;; “beer boutique.”

5th Arr. (includes Latin Quarter)
Le Crocodile – 6 Rue Royer Collard; 011-33-01-4354-3237;; student hangout with extraordinary drinks.
Curio Parlor – 16 Rue des Bernardins; 011-33-01-4407-1247;; speakeasy-style lounge popular with chic Parisian crowd.

6th Arr. (includes Saint-Germain)
L’Avant Comptoir – 9 Carrefour de l’Odeon; 011-33-01-4427-0797;; no reservations; narrow, short, standing-room-only space with white tile walls, broad pewter counter, and open kitchen; delicious small-plate Basque- and Bearnais-inspired nibbles and superb charcuterie boards; great wine-by-glass selection.
Café Flore – 172 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-01-4548-5526;; open since late 1800s; considered by some to be world’s most famous cafe; Sartre often came here during WWII, as did Camus, Picasso, and Apollinaire; omelets, salads, club sandwiches, and more.
La Closerie de Lila – 171 Boulevard du Montparnasse; 011-33-01-4051-3450;; open since 1847; onetime culinary and social magnet (Gertrude Stein, Alice B. Toklas, Ingres, Henry James, Chateaubriand, Picasso, Hemingway, Apollinaire, Lenin and Trotsky, and Whistler); today, Paris publishing world, tourists, Johnny Depp, and Nick Tosches; jazz pianist every night after 7 pm; 2 distinctly different seating areas: crowded, less expensive brasserie (known as le bateau) and less busy, more expensive restaurant, where service is bit more formal.
Holiday Inn – 4 Rue Danton; 011-33-800-910-850;; yes, that’s right, Holiday Inn; best rooftop view for sunsets of any bar in Paris; take one of square tables to elevator’s right; face west so can watch sun set over medieval Paris, with Eiffel Tower and Sacre-Couer beyond; to left, catch light fading over Notre Dame.
La Montana – 16 Rue des Bernardins; 011-33-01-4407-1247;; legendary club that reopened during 2009 spring fashion week; be warned: getting past bouncer hard.
Select – 99 Boulevard du Montparnasse; 011-33-01-4222-6527; historic drinks venue since 1920s.
La Societe – 4 Place Saint-Germain des Prés; 011-33-01-5363-6060;; see-and-be-seen place; have expensive cocktail.

8th Arr.
Le Bar Long – 37 Avenue Hoche (at Le Royal Monceau); 011-33-01-4299-8800;; in 1920s classic hotel; mixologist fixes drink right at illuminated table.
Le Baron – 6 Avenue Marceau; 011-33-01-4720-0401;
Bar30 – 15 Rue Boissy d’Anglas (at Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg); 011-33-01-4494-1414;; small terrace for al fresco cocktails; channels 1930s Paris.
Buddha Bar – 8 bis Rue Boissy d’Anglas (near Place de la Concorde & Champs Elysees); 011-33-01-5305-9000;; exotic and kitschy; reservations necessary.
15 cent 15 – 12 Rue de Marignan; 011-33-01-4076-3456;; hip lounge-bar.
Plaza Athenee – 25 Avenue Montaigne; 011-33-01-5367-6665;; bar 2 lounge areas; 1st surrounds sandblasted, sculpted glass bar (resembles iceberg); 2nd is cozy; try “Fashion Ice” (alcoholic, translucent ice pop, better known as really classy jello shot).
Le Showcase – sous le Pont Alexandre III (Port des Champs-Elysees); 011-33-01-4561-2543;; under Right Bank pillars of city’s most ornate bridge, Pont Alexandre III; hosts album launches, fashion week after-parties, and other glittery happenings during same week; starting at 10 pm. on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, open to all.

9th Arr. (includes Pigalle)
Chez Moune – 54 Rue Jean Baptiste Pigalle; 011-33-01-4526-6464;; former lesbian cabaret, now popular polysexual fashionista hangout.
Hotel Amour – 8 Rue de Navarin; 011-33-01-4878-3180;; bustling bar and bistro; funky courtyard space; don’t go before 11 pm; dress code strict (leave jeans at home).
Paris Olympia – 28 Boulevard des Capucines; 011-33-8-9268-3368;; oldest music hall in Paris.
Peoples Drugstore – 78 Rue des Martyrs (Montmartre);; artisanal beer & cider.

10th Arr.
New Morning – 7-9 Rue des Petites Ecuries; 011-33-01-4523-5141;; jazz club where all legends play eventually.
Le Verre Vole – 67 Rue de Lancry; 011-33-01-4803-1734;; among city’s best wine bars; perfect clams.
Vivant Cave – 43 Rue des Petites Écuries; 011-33-01-4246-4355;‎; wine bar that serves some small plates (cheese).

11th Arr.
Au Passage – 1 bis Passage Saint Sébastien; 011-33-01-4355-0752;; Mediterranean tapas; lunch.
Aux Deux Amis – 45 Rue Oberkampf; 011-33-01-5830-3813;; vintage café same since ‘50s (formica tables); natural wines and small plates.
La Balajo – 9 Rue de Lappe; 011-33-01-4700-0787;; established in 1936; where Edith Piaf won Parisian hearts; easy to compare to New York City’s Roseland (old-fashioned venue steeped in Big Band nostalgia); afternoon sessions focus on pasodobles, tangos, and waltzes; more staid than late-night counterpart; evenings attract younger crowd; Tuesday to Thursday, 7pm to 2am, Friday and Saturday 11pm to 6am, and Sunday 3 to 7pm.
L’Entree des Artistes – 8 Rue de Crussol; 011-33-9-5099-6711; cocktails and wines, as well as nibbles, open until 2 am.
La Fine Mousse – 6 Avenue Jean Aicard; 011-33-09-8045-9464;; 20 taps and 150 bottles; floor-to-ceiling windows that open onto street.

12th Arr.
Le China – 50 Rue de Charenton; 011-33-01-4346-0809;; Colonial chic bar in Bastille’s backyard; recently brought back to life; for decades, was place for posh cocktails on Paris’ east side; slightly renamed but largely unchanged, still provides swanky stiff-drink; in-house restaurant, but cocktails are really point.

14th Arr. (includes Montparnasse)
La Coupole – 102 Boulevard du Montparnasse; 011-33-01-4320-1420;; iconic bar-restaurant that should be visited for drinks only (perhaps shellfish platter).
Le Rosebud – 11 bis Rue Delambre; 011-33-01-4335-3854; cozy; hasn’t changed noticeably in 50-odd years (since Sartre would come by for drinks); dimly lit with handful tables tended by servers dressed in white coats who mix Bloody Marys and Manhattans to jazz background.

18th Arr. (includes Pigalle)
Aux Noctambules – 24 Boulevard de Clichy; 011-33-01-4606-1638;; no cover; open until 6 am.
Le Blue Note de Paris – 13 Rue Feutrier; 011-33-01-4254-6976;; Brazilian bands on Fridays and Saturdays.
Brasserie la Goutte d’Or – 28 Rue de la Goutte d’Or; 011-33-09-8064-2351;; craft brews.
Peoples Drugstore – 78 Rue des Martyrs;; part chess club, part draft emporium; 500 brands.
Proibido – 34 Rue Durantin; 011-33-01-4223-9705;; Brazilian-ish and down-to-earth.
Le Supercoin – 3 Rue Baudelique; 011-33-09-5007-0490;; brew pub; laid-back watering hole plays rock on speakers & pours craft beers on tap.

19th Arr.
Rosa Bonheur – 2 Allée de la Cascade (in Parc des Buttes-Chaumont); 011-33-01-4203-2867;; outdoors 1867 pavilion, perched atop hilly Parc des Buttes Chaumont; noon-midnight; outdoor terrace; by day, middle-aged hippies strum guitars alongside hung-over club-kids; by night, full-fledged party complete with velvet rope and D.J.
Zenith – 211 Avenue Jean Jaures; 011-33-01-4208-6000;; live music venue for all biggest bands.

20th Arr.
Le Baratin – 3 Rue Jouye-Rouve (above Belleville Park); 011-33-01-4349-3970;; intimate and unpretentious wine bar; possible to walk in at odd hour, sans reservations; dozen or so small-production wines, scratched on chalkboard.
La Cale Seche – 18 Rue des Panoyaux; no telephone;èche/137975779547072; bar with back patio where peach trees, roses, and tomatoes soften otherwise gritty atmosphere; wine bar that also serves some food.
La Faille – 96 Rue Menilmontant; 011-33-01-4797-3410; dj-driven venue at night that serves “shooters” and champagne; coffee bar by day at which one can watch soccer.
La Feline – 6 Rue Victor Letalle; 011-33-01-4033-0866;; punkish bar.
Mamashelter – 109 Rue de Bagnolet; 011-33-01-4348-4545;; in hotel; area’s social hub.
Au Nouveau Nez – 163 Rue de Bagnolet; 011-33-01-4372-0842;; wine shop that offers cheese and wine tastings in evening.

1st Arr.
Le Burgundy – 6-8 Rue Duphot; 011-33-01-4260-3412;; 51 rooms and 8 suites; among Paris’ smallest 5 star hotels; restaurant has 1 Michelin star; basement spa has 50' swimming pool; 6th floor L’Appartement (largest suite) has indoor shutters, Jacuzzi set under skylight in bathroom, nice terrace, and sloping roofs; ask for #108 (with large planted terrace, sofa, and dining table (perfect for summer)).
Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal – 4 Rue de Valois; 011-33-01-4296-1535;; 68 rooms with Louvre views, as well as Palais Royal courtyard & Tuileries views.
Hotel Costes – 239 Rue Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4244-5000;; on Ile de France; very chic; excellent boutique and restaurant (Chez Julien), too.
Hotel O – 19 Rue Herold; 011-33-01-4236-0402;; futuristic looking, relatively affordable, boutique hotel; 29 rooms spread over 5 stories; high design; smallish rooms; nice hotel bar.
Mandarin Oriental – 251 Rue Saint-Honoré; 011-33-01-7098-7888;
Le Meurice – 228 Rue de Rivoli; 011-33-01-4458-1010;; 7-story building looking on to Tuileries; awesome views; great restaurant.
Hotel Therese – 7 Rue Thérèse; 011-33-01-4296-1001;; classic, contemporary, and quiet; near Louvre; affordable.

3rd Arr. (includes Marais)
Hotel de la Bretonnerie – 22 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie; 011-33-01-4887-7763;; former private mansion dating from 17th Century; exposed interior beams, carved stone walls, vaulted cave dining-room; period furniture; 29 guest rooms.
Hotel du Petit Moulin – 29/31 Rue du Poitou (Marais); 011-33-01-4274-1010; central and chic; recommended by New York Times; 17 rooms by Christian Lacroix.
Hotel Pavilion de la Reine – 28 Place de Voges; 011-33-01-4029-1919;; grand 17th Century townhouse draped in greenery behind flowering courtyard in Place des Vosges.
Marais House – 39 Rue de Montmorency (access by Rue Saint-Martin);; ivy-covered building with store front stating “Venon”; 5-story town house; 17th Century fireplaces; elegant.
Murano Urban Resort – 13 Boulevard du Temple; 011-33-01-4272-4016;; super trendy; luxury hotel near Marais area; ask for terrace looking over city.

5th Arr. (includes Latin Quarter)
Five Hotel – 3 Rue Flatters; 011-33-01-4331-7421;; Left Bank boutique hotel (Latin Quarter); restored 1800s town-house on U-shaped street off Boulevard de Port-Royal; interior design not to everyone’s taste; some rooms tiny but all beds exceedingly comfortable.
Hotel Seven – 20 Rue Berthollet; 011-33-01-4331-4752;; quirky boutique off beaten-track; low-key on outside and space age on inside; 28 Levitation Rooms and 7 themed suites; Room 505 is “suspended bath” room (floating, illuminated bath and bed evoke Tron); not great.
Le Notre Dame Hotel – 1 Quai Saint-Michel; 011-33-01-4354-2043;; facing Seine River and Paris’ cathedral; makeover by Christian Lacroix.

6th Arr. (includes Saint-Germain)
Hotel de l’Abbaye – 10 Rue Cassette; 011-33-01-4544-3811;; perhaps best deal in Paris.
La Belle Juliette – 92 Rue du Cherche-Midi; 011-33-01-4222-9740;; in Restoration-era hotel particulier; 28 rooms and 6 suites; get room on 3rd floor, especially #309 (glassed in bathroom and stand-alone tub).
Hotel Le Clement – 6 Rue Clement; 011-33-01-4326-5360;; tucked away quiet street; charming.
Hotel Le Clos Medicis – 56 Rue Monsieur-Le-Prince; 011-33-01-4329-1080;; chic.
Hotel Relais Saint-Germain – 5 Carrefour de l’Odeon; 011-33-01-4329-1205;; luxuriously renovated; great restaurant.
L’Hotel – 13 Rue des Beaux Arts; 011-33-01-4441-9900;; where Oscar Wilde died; 20 rooms; circular central atrium rises 6 stories; bar is Jean Cocteau’s former watering hole; small pool and spa in basement; Madame de Merteuil Room (named for Dangerous Liaisons character) bright with gold; Reine Hortense Suite named for Napoleon’s stepmother has little balcony that looks out over neighborhood.
Hotel Le Placide – 6 Rue Saint-Placide; 011-33-01-4284-3460;; 11 rooms; minimalist sanctuary; Missoni bedding and Kenzo blankets; asking to link 2 rooms as 1 (for families) is best deal; charming staff.
Le Recamier – 3 Bis Place Saint-Sulpice; 011-33-01-4326-0489;; Catherine Deneuve lives across square; 24 rooms; décor strikes perfect balance between bold and comfortably classic; pleasant courtyard with garden; get room #62 (with black and white color scheme and slightly sloping ceiling).
Hotel Sainte Beuve – 9 Rue Sainte-Beuve; 011-33-01-4548-2007;; nestled in small street, with Boulevard Raspail and Luxembourg Gardens at each street-end; 22 rooms; cozy; 3 stars.

7th Arr.
Hotel Le Cinq Codet – 5 Rue Louis Codet; 011-33-01-5385-1560;; 4-minute walk from École Militaire metro station; sleek, set in art deco 1930s building; sophisticated, modern rooms & suites come with flat-screen TVs, iPod docks & Wi-Fi, as well as Nespresso machines & minibars; upgraded rooms add free-standing tubs &/or 2-story floor plans with separate living spaces, while suites offer private terraces &/or whirlpool tubs in living rooms; refined restaurant/bar with patio seating; exercise room, open-air spa, hot tub, hammam & massage services.
Hotel Le Bellechasse – 8 Rue de Bellechasse; 011-33-01-4550-2231;; Christian Lacroix’ 2nd hotel; near Musee d’Orsay; 34, small rooms.
Hotel Montalambert – 3 Rue de Montalembert; 011-33-14549-6868;; unusually elegant for Left Bank; dates from 1926; guest rooms are spacious except for some standard doubles.
Hotel Muguet – 11 Rue Chevert; 011-33-01-4705-0593;; good pick for romantic vacation.
Hotel Thoumieux – 79 Rue Saint-Dominique; 011-33-01-4705-7900;; 15, Mahdavi-designed rooms.
Hotel Verneuil – 8 Rue de Verneuil; 011-33-01-4260-8214;; built in 1600s; if you don’t mind tiny room, ask for 1 of 5 small doubles; James Baldwin’s old hangout; many baths and rooms have original wood beams; breakfast served in vaulted stone cellar or room.
Hotel St. Vincent – 5 Rue de Pres aux Clercs; 011-33-01-4261-0151;; hidden gem hotel; worn gentility.

8th Arr.
Le Bristol – 112 Rue Faubourg Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-5343-4300;; 18th Century mansion; perfect location; 26 rooms.
Four Seasons George V – 31 Avenue George V; 011-33-01-4952-7000 or 800-819-5053;; white stone Art Deco property off Champs Elysees; beautiful.
Hotel Francois 1er – 7 Rue Magellan; 011-33-01-4723-4404;
Hospes Lancaster Hotel – 7 Rue de Berri (Ile de France); 011-33-01-4076-4076;; situated just off Champs-Elysees; small townhouse hotel; 57 rooms with 11 suites (some with Eiffel Tower views); situated around courtyard garden; 4 stars.
Hotel de Crillon – 10 Place de la Concorde; 011-33-01-4471-1500;; 1758 palace for Louis XV.
Hotel Daniel – 8 Rue Frederic Bastiat; 011-33-01-4256-1700;; 19-room, 7 suite, intimate, elegant, businessmen’s hotel; ask for 1 of 4 “Kipling” rooms or on top floor (Daniel Suite has small balcony overlooking private garden); 24-hour room service.
Hotel Fouquet’s Barriere – 46 Avenue George V; 011-33-01-4069-6000 or 800-745-8883;; on corner of Champs Elysees and Avenue George V; built around internal garden courtyard; 107 rooms and suites; views from Francois Andre terrace; Le Diane restaurant; Le Lucien bar.
Hotel San Regis – 12 Rue Jean Goujon (Ile-de-France); 011-33-01-4495-1616;; 1923 townhouse; poor restaurant.
Park Hyatt Paris-Vendome – 5 Rue de la Paix; 011-33-01-5871-1234;; businessman’s hotel.
Pavillon des Lettres – 12 Rue Des Saussaies; 011-33-01-4924-2626;; 26 rooms, each named for an author, encompassing alphabet; not unreasonable for Paris; try to get “Diderot” room – Eiffel Tower views and small balcony with table and 2 chairs.
Peninsula Paris – 19 Avenue Kléber; 011-33-01-5812-2888;; in late 19th Century, classic Haussmanian building, 1st opened as luxurious “grands hotels” in 1908; meticulously restored & discreetly modernized; 200 luxurious rooms, including 34 suites, among most spectacular in city; centerpiece of underground pool is shimmering, floor-to-ceiling waterfall amid otherwise understated elegance.
Prince de Galles – 33 Avenue George V; 011-33-01-5323-7777; Art-Deco-style building with sleek marble floors and dark ebony wood in apartment-like rooms and suites.
Plaza Athenee – 25 Avenue Montaigne; 011-33-01-5367-6665;; luxury hotel; 4 stars.
Raffles Royal Monceau – 37 Avenue Hoche; 011-33-01-4299-8800;; steps from Arc de Triomphe; 85-room hotel leaves no detail too small to escape designer Philippe Starck’s touch, with rates from $1K per night.
La Réserve Paris – 42 Avenue Gabriel; 011-33-01-5370-5370;; 40 rooms of effortless glamor; rare antiques; gilded getaway; should be among 1st choices.

9th Arr. (includes Pigalle)
Hotel Amour – 8 Rue Navarin; 011-33-01-4878-3180;; 20 rooms designed by different artists; no traditional amenities (telephones, televisions); top 2 floors overlook garden.
Hotel Athenee – 19 Rue Caumartin; 011-33-01-40-179-929;; not same as Plaza Athenee; each room decorated in different opera theme; room 501 is dark as tomb and under roof (slightly hard to stand in places but perfect for quiet night’s sleep).
Hotel Banke – 20 Rule La Fayette; 011-33-01-5533-2222;; combines Belle Epoque-style architecture with not overly trendy touches; 94 rooms.
Hotel Chopin – 10 Boulevard Montmartre (46 Passage Joufroy); 011-33-01-4770-5810;; enter hotel through passageway, exit from Musee Grevin; comfortably furnished bedrooms open onto glass-topped arcade instead of hysterically busy street; request bedrooms on top floor, as they are larger and quieter, with views over Paris rooftops.
Hotel Jules – 49-51 Rue de Lafayette; 011-33-01-4285-0544;; 50s-70s inspired boutique hotel.
Hotel Langlois – 63 Rue Saint-Lazare; 011-33-01-4874-7824;; more than century old; affordable.
Le Joyce – 29 Rue la Bruyere; 011-33-01-5507-0001;; wacky design includes airy breakfast room with vintage-tiled floors; must get 2-room suite called L’Appartement on 6th floor; best views.

10th Arr.
La Citizen – 96 Quai des Jemmapes; 011-33-01-8362-5550;; affordable; on Canal-Saint-Martin edge; 12 minimalist rooms; modular, pale wood furniture; canal views.

11th Arr.
Les Chansonniers – 113 Boulevard de Menilmontant; 011-33-01-4357-0058;; affordable hotels but some doubles have shared bathrooms; hotel’s theme is French singers.
Hotel des Arts Bastille – 2 Rue Godefroy Cavaignac; 011-33-01-4379-7257;; low price, good looks, near Bastille and Picasso Museum.

13th Arr.
Hotel La Manufacture – 8 Rue Philippe de Champagne; 011-33-01-4535-4525;; in Gobelins district; trendy and Minimalist; air-conditioning; top floors offer fabulous roof-top views; not convenient to city center.

16th Arr.
Hotel Raphael – 17 Avenue Kleber; 011-33-01-5364-3200;; 4 stars.
Hotel La Reserve – 10 Place du Trocadero (at 3 Avenue d’Eylau); 011-33-01-5370-5370;; discreet (no sign on street); 10 apartments, ranging from 1-4 bedroom; spectacular Eiffel Tower view; broad range hotel services on request (concierge worthy of 5-star establishment, daily housekeeper, exclusive valet parking, home chef, fine books and music selection).
Shangri-La Hotel – 10 Avenue d’Iena; 011-33-01-5367-1998;; in scientist Prince Roland Bonaparte’s former palace, built in 1896; gorgeous pool (worth stay for just this aspect).

18th Arr.
Hotel Particulier Montmartre – 23 Avenue Junot; 011-33-01-5341-8140;; off tree-lined, winding street, on cobblestoned passageway; riotously lush garden; 5 large bedrooms, each with different artist motif.

20th Arr.
Mamashelter – 109 Rue de Bagnolet; 011-33-01-4348-4848;; impressively inexpensive with excellent rental bicycles; room 622 is small but has everything you need.

Hotellerie du Bas Breau – 11 Grand Rue Barbizon; 011-33-01-6066-4005;

Trianon Palace Hotel – 1 Boulevard de la Reine; 011-33-01-3084-5000;

1st Arr.
L’Ardoise – 28 Rue du Mont Thabor; 011-33-01-4296-2818;; prix-fixe; great food; reasonable.
Bistrot Victoires – 6 Rue la Vrilliere; 011-33-01-4261-4378; traditional bistro fare; classic décor (brass trim, huge mirrors, wood paneling, zinc bar).
Café Marly – 93 Rue de Riovoli; 011-33-01-4926-0660;; run by Costes brothers; overlooks Louvre’s main courtyard and I.M. Pei’s glass pyramid; stunning jewel-toned dining rooms with molded ceilings on long, sheltered terrace; regular café service shuts down during meal hours, when fashion-conscious folks dig into Asian-inspired salads and pseudo-Italian pasta dishes.
La Cordonnerie – 20 Rue Saint-Roch; 011-33-01-4260-1742;; minuscule; cuisine de marché (fresh market food); fewer than 20 seats; dates from 1690, with blackened beams against low white ceiling.
Dali – 228 Rue de Rivoli (at Le Meurice Hotel); 011-33-01-4458-1044;; more affordable, casual restaurant; most see-and-be-seen lunch spot in Paris.
Ferdi – 32 Rue du Mont Thabor; 011-33-01-4260-8252; simple menu (burgers, ceviche, etc.); fashion editors attend.
Fred and Ginger – 62 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (Montorgueil); 011-33-01-4028-9904;; beautiful décor reminiscent of 1930s Shanghai; authentic & refined Thai cuisine.
Le Grand Vefour – 17 Rue du Beaujolais; 011-33-01-4296-5627;; founded in 1784 as Café de Chartres; Napoleon and Josephine ate here (also Cocteau, Colette, and Hugo); décor is exquisite, immaculate, and original; 3 hour meals; many recipes from French Alps; desserts are often grand, such as gourmandizes au chocolat (chocolate medley), served with chocolate sorbet.
Kinugawa – 9 Rue du Mont-Thabor; 011-33-01-4260-6507;; Japanese; regulars include Catherine Deneuve, Marion Cotillard, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Victoire de Castellane; amazing truffles (by Jean-Paul Hevin).
Kunitoraya Villedo – 5 Rue de Villedo; 011-33-01-4703-0774;; chic Japanese.
Le Meurice – 228 Rue de Rivoli (at Le Meurice Hotel); 011-33-01-4458-1055;; prix-fixe lunch, though steep, among best deals in town; 3 Michelin stars.
La Muscade – 36 Rue de Montpensier; 011-33-01-4297-5136;; 30 tables scattered near Palais Royal garden.
Pouic Pouic – 9 Rue Lobineau; 011-33-01-01-4326-7195;; tiny bistro that opens at 5 a.m. on Fridays-Sundays; excellent, simple, bistro food.
Le Saut du Loup – 107 Rue de Rivoli; 011-33-01-4225-4955;; inside Musee des Arts Decoratifs; outdoor terrace; lunch.
Le Souffle – 36 Rue Mont Thabor; 011-33-01-4260-2719;; for cheese soufflés, salade verte, and grilled sole.
Spring – 6 Rue Bailleul; 011-33-01-4596-0572;; few blocks up from Louvre; worth special trip; American chef; try duck breast with cauliflower puree, wildflower-honey jus & cucumber.
Spring Boutique – 52 Rue de L’Arbre Sec; 011-33-01-5862-4430;; daytime version of Spring; casual.
La Tour de Montlhery Chez Denise – 5 Rue des Prouvaires; 011-33-01-4236-2182; at midnight, place packed; savory traditional dishes, washed down by liters house Brouilly.
Verjus – 52 Rue de Richelieu; 011-33-01-4297-5440;; cosmopolitan American food; also, wine bar.

2nd Arr.
Bistrot Vivienne – 4 Rue des Petits Champs; 011-33-01-4927-0050;; lovely.
Chez Georges – 1 Rue de Mail; 011-33-01-4260-0711;; 3 generations same family run; opened in 1964 near La Bourse (stock exchange); where Julia Child ate; serves la cuisine bourgeoise (comfort food).
Eatme – 38 Rue Leopold Bellan; 011-33-01-4236-1828;; high design, on-go food.
Frenchie – 5-6 Rue du Nil; 011-33-01-4039-9619;; exposed brick walls, 2-person staff, 28 seats; sublime, chicken liver stuffed tortellini with peaches and purslane.
Le Grand Colbert – 2 Rue Vivienne; 011-33-01-4286-8788;; for sole meuniere and haricots verts.
Aux Lyonnais – 32 Rue Saint-Marc (near La Bourse); 011-33-01-4296-6504;; authentic, Lyonnaise cuisine.
Racines – 8 Passage Panaromas; 011-33-01-4013-0641;; Paris’ hottest wine bar; homespun dishes; try heritage chicken in crème fraiche sauce.
Au Rocher de Cancale – 78 Rue Montorgueil; 011-33-01-4233-5029;; poultry and seafood restaurant; lively lunch bistro since 1846; in upstairs dining room, unique frescoes salvaged from 1846 restaurant and preserved under plexiglass like archaeological finds from Pompeii.
Saturne – 17 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires; 011-33-01-4260-3190;; airy, beautiful space near Bourse; up front can sit on stool and enjoy wine by glass at lunch; food on rustic side; excellent.
Le Vaudeville – 29 Rue Vivienne; 011-33-01-4020-0462;; traditional brasserie near stock exchange; good Sunday alternative.

3rd Arr. (includes Marais)
L’Ambassade d’Auvergne – 22 Rue du Grenier-Saintt-Lazare; 011-33-01-4272-3122;; serves some of Paris’ best regional food; aligot made tableside; also, excellent chocolate mousse.
L’Ami Louis – 32 Rue Vertbois; 011-33-01-4887-7748;; famous movie star haunt; pricey; unfashionable neighborhood.
Anahi – 49 Rue Volta; 011-33-01-4887-8824; Argentinian; unprepossessing exterior (looks like condemned squat) and interior but fabulous food; order steak lomo (very thick, excellent cut).
L’Augerge Nicholas Flamel – 51 Rue de Montmorency; 011-33-01-4271-7778;; in Paris’ oldest house (1407); good food and pleasant setting.
Le Bouledogue – 20 Rue Rambuteau; 011-33-01-4027-9090;; lively, pleasant restaurant with friendly staff; bistro de quartier; where dogs are king.
Breizh Cafe – 109 Rue Vielle du Temple; 011-33-01-4272-1377;; creperie; try buckwheat crepes.
Chez Janou – 2 Rue Roger Verlomme (outside Marais); 011-33-01-4272-2841;; worth searching out; provencal food; expensive.
Derriere – 69 Rue des Gravilliers; 011-33-01-4461-9195;; average food.
404 – 69 Rue Gravilliers; 011-33-01-4274-5781;; Moroccan.
Robert et Louise – 64 Rue Vieille-du-Temple; 011-33-01-4278-5589;; limited kitchen, just beef, escargot, lettuce, and potatoes; most beef cuts come only in 2-person sized portions and they are hearth-cooked, then served on wood plank.
Usagi – 58 Rue de Saintonge; 011-33-01-4887-2885;; wild wall mural, mixing French barouque and Manga-inspired figures and motifs; minimalist, French-Japanese cuisine.

4th Arr.
L’Ambroisie – 9 Place Vosges; 011-33-01-4278-5145;; 3 stars; dinner for 2 can run around $2K.
L’As du Falafel – 34 Rue des Rosiers; 011-33-01-4887-6360; middle-eastern food; Paris’ “falafel destination”; have to pay, get receipt, and then give to guys who prepare order.
Auberge de la Reine Blanche – 30 Rue Saint-Louis-en-Ile; 011-33-01-4633-0787; low key; try Gillardeau oysters and free-range chicken.
Benoit – 20 Rue Saint-Martin; 011-33-01-4272-2576;; owned by Ducasse group; lovely atmosphere; lunch and dinner.
Brasserie Bofinger – 5-7 Rue de la Bastille; 011-33-01-4272-8782;; seafood brasserie (expensive & famous).
Chez Julien – 1 Rue Pont Louis-Philippe; 011-33-01-4278-3164;; founded in 1780; excellent food and moderate to expensive price; from tree-fringed, outdoor seats, can see Seine River, Notre Dame, and old St-Gervais-St-Protais Church.
Claude Colliot – 40 Rue Blancs Manteaux; 011-33-01-4271-5545;; popular among Parisians; faultless, healthy food and service; pricey.
Le Gaigne – 12 Rue Pecquay; 011-33-01-4459-8672;; 20 tables; small menu; order a la carte for huge portions.
Le Georges – 19 Rue Beaubourg (6th Floor, Centre Pompidou); 011-33-01-4478-4799; centrepompidou.en; have lunch here; best Paris view; same food as Societe (same owner).
Mi-Va-Mi – 23 Rue des Rosiers; 011-33-01-4271-5372; falafel and shwarma.
Monjul – 28 Rue Blancs Manteaux; 011-33-01-4274-4015;; among Marais’ top 10 restaurants; must visit location.

5th Arr. (includes Latin Quarter)
L’Agrume – 15 Rue Fosses Saint-Marcel; 011-33-01-4331-8648;; food looks like what someone might make at home for friends; after 9 pm, snug room fills with food followers and locals.
Le Boulanger de Monge – 123 Rue Monge; 011-33-01-4337-5420;; famous for slim bread rolls with cheese and bacon.
Brasserie Balzar – 49 Rue des Ecoles; 011-33-01-4354-1367;; traditional brasserie in Latin Quarter and considered among Paris’ top 100 restaurants.
Christophe – 8 Rue Descartes; 011-33-01-4326-7249;; excellent Sunday restaurant; Basque pork and lemon mille-feuille.
Au Coin des Gourmets – 5 Rue Dante; 011-33-01-4326-1292; Franco-Indo-Chinese restaurants; Cambodian and Vietnamese inflected.
Itineraires – 5 Rue de Pontoise; 011-33-01-4633-6011;; bistro fare; 60 seats; prix-fixe meals.
Maison Eric Kayser – 8 Rue Monge; 011-33-01-4407-07-0142;; 60 different kinds bread; perfect, light lunch spot.
Au Moulin A Vent – 20 Rue des Fosses Saint-Bernard (Latin Quarter); 011-33-01-4354-9937;; standard-bearer from 1946; channels war years; French comfort food.
Les Papilles – 30 Rue Gay-Lussac; 011-33-01-4325-2079;; bistro; also provisions and wine shop.
Le Petit Pontoise – 9 Rue de Pontoise; 011-33-01-4329-2520; old-fashioned classics.
La Rotisserie du Beaujolais – 19 Quai de la Tournelle (near Notre Dame); 011-33-01-4354-1747;; good Sunday dinner restaurant option.

6th Arr. (includes Saint-Germain)
L’Agape Substance – 66 Rue Mazarine; 011-33-01-4329-3383;; tiny space; serves small plates.
Armani Caffe – 149 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-01-4548-6215;; best Italian food in Paris.
Brasserie Lipp – 151 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-01-4548-5391;; founded in 1880; meeting place for artistic, journalistic, literary, and political figures.
Bread & Roses – 62 Rue Madame; 011-33-01-4222-0606;; organic café.
La Closerie de Lila – 171 Boulevard du Montparnasse; 011-33-01-4051-3450;; open since 1847; onetime culinary and social magnet (Gertrude Stein, Alice B. Toklas, Ingres, Henry James, Chateaubriand, Picasso, Hemingway, Apollinaire, Lenin and Trotsky, and Whistler); today, Paris publishing world, tourists, Johnny Depp, and Nick Tosches; jazz pianist every night after 7 pm; cuisine ok; 2 seating areas: crowded, less expensive brasserie (le bateau) and more expensive, less busy restaurant, where service is bit more formal and attentive.
Le Comptoir du Relais – 5 Carrefour de l’Odeon (next to Hotel Relais Saint-Germai); 011-33-01-4329-1205;; small brasserie by day; reservations for night but tendency to overbook; secret to getting dinner reservation is to stay at hotel.
Comptoir des Saints-Peres – 60 Rue de Jacob (Rue des Saints-Peres); 011-33-01-4020-0939; founded in 1686; served 1st coffee in Paris; good for brunch on Saturday.
Restaurant Polidor – 41 Rule Monsieur-le-Prince; 011-33-01-4326-9534;; moderate; traditional (1st opened in 1845); also, best dessert tarts in Paris.
L’Epigramme – 9 Rue l’Eperon; 011-33-01-4441-0009;; inexpensive, tourist location, friendly bistro; very good food.
La Ferrandaise – 8 Rue de Vaugirard; 011-33-01-4326-3636;; always packed bistro; superb and affordable.
El Fogon – 45 Quai Grands Augustins; 011-33-01-4354-3133;; Spanish paella and tapas for Sunday restaurant.
Helene Darroze – 4 Rue d’Assas; 011-33-01-4222-0011;; exclusive setting; southwestern French food; service sometimes struggles to reach same level; for more affordable taste, try relatively casual Salon d’Hélène downstairs.
Josephine Chez Dumonet – 117 Rue du Cherche-Midi; 011-33-01-4548-5240; 1898-vintage place near famous Poilane bakery; everything is excellent; closed weekends.
Laperouse – 51 Quai des Grands Augustins; 011-33-01-4326-6804;; lavish meals in cozy, historic atmosphere; Emile Zola, George Sand, and Victor Hugo were regulars; can sample experience at lunch, when bargain prix-fixe menu served at bar or in main dining room; breakfast is for true romantic, served on Tuesday and Thursday mornings by reservation.
Le Procope – 13 Rue Ancienne Comédie; 011-33-01-4046-7900;; opened in 1686; well-presented meals; menu items include platters of shellfish, onion soup au gratin, coq au vin (chicken stewed in wine), duck breast in honey sauce, and grilled versions of various meats and fish; ground-floor room outfitted like antique library.
Ralph’s – 173 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-01-4477-7600;; owned by Ralph Lauren.
Wadja – 10 Rue de la Grande Chaumiere; 011-33-01-4633-0202; former canteen for Polish artists near Montparnasse, fresh products.

7th Arr.
Altitude 95 – 5 Avenue Anatole France (in Tour Eiffel, Champ-de-Mars, 1st level); 011-33-01-4555-2004;
L’Arpege – 84 Rue de Varenne; 011-33-01-4705-0906;; 3 stars; red meat rare on menus, but Kobe beef and venison sometimes appear; expensive.
Au Bon Accueil – 14 Rue de Monttessuy; 011-33-01-4705-4611;; prixe-fixe; great food; reasonable.
Chez L’Ami Jean – 27 Rue Malar; 011-33-01-4705-8689;; packed (strangers become confidants); menu on slate detailing 3-course prix fixe; all sorts charcuterie, sausages, and terrines; for dessert, creamy lemon custard.
Le Bistrot de Paris – 33 Rue de Lille (behind Musee d’Orsay); 011-33-01-4261-1683; try truffled mac & beautiful, turn-of-century décor.
Chez Germaine – 30 Rue Pierre Leroux; 011-33-01-4273-2834; unpretentious institution providing French comfort food.
La Cigale Recamier – 4 Rue Recamier; 011-33-01-4222-5175; favored American embassy haunt; bistro; famous for soufflé.
Club des Poetes – 30 Rue de Bourgogne; 011-33-01-4705-0603;; opened over half century ago; live poetry readings on Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings.
Fontaine de Mars – 129 Rue Saint-Dominique; 011-33-01-4705-4644;; delicious country French; order something in crock.
Le Jules Verne – 5 Avenue Anatole France (in Tour Eiffel, Champ-de-Mars 2nd level); 011-33-01-4555-6144;
La Maison de l’Amerique Latine – 217 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-01-4954-7500;; classic French cuisine in elegant jardin a la Francaise, tucked behind 2 18th Century mansions; 30 tables under white parasols overlooking 2 acre manicured lawn; traveling Latin American material exhibits.
Les Ombres – 27 Quai Branly (at Musee du Quai Branly); 011-33-01-4753-6800;; lovely Eiffel Tower view in evening.
Restaurant Jean-Francois Piege – 79 Rue Saint Dominique (near Eiffel Tower); 011-33-01-4705-7979;; described as Rat Pack meets David Lynch design.
La Table d’Aki – 49 Rue Vaneau; 011-33-01-4544-4348; hard to find tinier kitchen in Paris; staff consists of one person: owner Akihiro Horikoshi; 16 seats; focus on sophisticated fish dishes; reservations strongly recommended.
Thoumieux – 79 Rue Saint-Dominique (at Hotel Thoumieux); 011-33-01-4705-4975;; old-world bistro with globe lights and etched mirrors; must try mashed potatoes with caviar; reservations taken exactly 6 days ahead.
Le Voltaire – 27 Quai Voltaire; 011-33-01-4261-1749; where “moneyed” Paris eats; gilt and velvet lined boite; make sure to order oeuf mayonnaise James, named after American soldier who ate there during Liberation (still costs 90 centimes).

8th Arr.
Les 110 de Taillevent – 195 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4074-2020;; Taillevent’s more casual and upscale bistro.
L’Avenue Restaurant – 41 Avenue Montaigne; 011-33-01-4070-1491;; see and be seen; for lunch, have omelette with green salad and fries.
Cafe Lenotre – 10 Avenue des Champs-Elysees; 011-33-01-4265-9771; chic snacking.
Café Salle Pleyel – 252 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore (at concert hall, 2nd Floor); 011-33-01-4256-1313;; organic produce sourced; try foie gras brandade, particularly on cold day.
Alain Ducasse at Plaza Athenee – 25 Avenue Montaigne; 011-33-01-5367-6500;; fruit and vegetable appetizer (braised in butter) is must have.
L’Eclaireur – 40 Rue de Sévigné; 011-33-01-4887-1022;; boutique and restaurant; very chic.
Pierre Gagnaire – 6 Rue Balzac; 011-33-01-5836-1250;; complex descriptions; experience only for financial elite.
Minipalais – 3 Avenue Winston Churchill (at Grand Palais); 011-33-01-4256-4242;; loft-like brasserie with American-friendly menu.
Neva Cuisine – 2 Rue Berne; 011-33-01-4522-1891;; bistro with French-Mexican influences.
Pichet de Paris – 68 Rue Pierre Charron; 011-33-01-4359-5034; not far from Champs Elysees; Mitterand’s fave.
Restaurant Les Ombres – 27 Quai Branly; 011-33-01-4753-6800;; stunning rooftop restaurant, with Eiffel Tower views; reservations.
Stresa – 7 Rue Chambiges; 011-33-01-4723-5162;; Italian (pasta w/caviar); moderate; reservations.

9th Arr. (includes Pigalle)
Le Barouge – 48 Boulevard Haussmann (at Les Galeries Lafayette); 011-33-01-4023-5231;; bistro classics.
Buvette Gastrothèque – 28 Rue Henri Monnier (Pigalle); 011-33-01-4463-4171;; traditional French bistro owned by American woman; highly regarded.
Café de la Paix – 5 Place de l’Opéra (across from Opera Garnier, on northwest corner of Boulevard des Capucines’ with Place de l’Opéra); 011-33-01-40-073636;; designed by architect Alfred Armand; said that if one sits at café, one is bound to run into acquaintance; open since 1862; famous clients include Jules Massenet, Émile Zola & Guy de Maupassant, Sergei Diaghilev, & Prince of Wales & future UK King Edward VII; setting for Absinthe Drinkers by Canadian poet, Robert Service.
Le Pantruche – 3 Rue Victor Massé (Pigalle); 011-33-01-4878-5560;; no high prices or pretentious presentation; just fantastic modern translations of traditional bistro fare.
Cul de Poule – 53 Rue Martyrs; 011-33-01-5316-1307; Franco-Japanese cuisine by Yannig Samot; apparent hole-in-wall with great food.
L’Office – 3 Rue Richer; 011-33-01-4770-6731;; Brooklyn interpretation of French bistro.
Le Pantruche – 3 Rue Victor Massé (Pigalle); 011-33-01-4878-5560;; market-driven bistro that is perfect for lunch.
Restaurant Petrelle – 34 Rue Petrelle (Pigalle); 011-33-01-4282-1102;; celebratory atmosphere & lovely.
Le Rocketship – 13 Rue Henri Monnier (Pigalle); 011-33-01-4878-2366;; part housewares boutique, part cafe.

10th Arr.
Abri – 92 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière; 011-33-01-8397-0000;; casual spot run by Japanese chef Katsuaki Okiyama, who honed his technique in kitchens at Taillevent & Robuchon; nondescript space; try buttermilk suckling pig and/or devastating fondant au chocolat; also serves city’s most talked-about sandwich but only at lunch on Mondays and Saturdays (4 layer behemoth with breaded and fried pork, kimchi omelet, cabbage, and melted cheddar, with light mayo-tonkatsu sauce; reservation important.
Le Cambodge – 10 Avenue Richerand; 011-33-01-4484-3770;; fresh Cambodian food.
La Cantine de Quentin – 52 Rue Bichat; 011-33-01-4202-4032;; grocery, take-out, and excellent cafe.
Chez Casimir – 6 Rue de Belzunce; 011-33-01-4878-2880;; Thierry Breton’s bright, easygoing bistro; affordable.
Chez Michel – 10 Rue de Belzunce; 011-33-01-4453-0620;; Thierry Breton’s unpretentious place for true food lovers.
Au Comptoir de Brice – 33 Rue du Château d’Eau; 011-33-07-8736-7738;; market-driven ingredients define chef Brice Morvent’s cooking; make sure to try foie gras mi-cuit appetizer with candied cherry plums and toasted cereal bread.
La Fidelite – 12 Rue de la Fidelite; 011-33-01-4770-1935;; neo-Bistro, moderately priced, large.
La Grille – 80 Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere; 011-33-01-4770-8973; peculiar, English atmosphere; 9-table restaurant; since late 1960s, charming, outspoken M. and Mme Cullérre have run this restaurant; excellent duck terrine with hazelnuts, mackerel poached in white wine, and grilled turbot with beurre blanc.
Le Martel – 3 Rue Martel; 011-33-01-4770-6756; neighborhood couscous joint; cool, crowded joint; French standbys and more exotic fare.
Philou – 12 Avenue Richerand; 011-33-01-4238-0013;; inexpensive and tiny; wonderful food that verges on perfect.
La Pointe du Grouin – 8 Rue de Belzunce; no telephone or web address; chef Thierry Breton runs this bare-bones tavern and wine bar; sandwiches and small, shared plates (braised oxtail, breaded pork snout, and lobster salad); homemade bread and kouign-amann for dessert.
Pousse Pousse – 7 Rue Notre-Dame de Lorette; 011-33-01-5316-1081;; natural and raw food.
Sunken Chip – 39 Rue Des Vinaigriers; 011-33-01-5326-7446;; leads wave of “fast good” (rhyming with “food”) spots, serving elevated comfort food; fish & chips.
La Tete Dans les Olives – 2 Rue Sainte-Marthe; 011-33-9-5131-3334;; 5 seats in grocery store, in which former tightrope circus performer now prepares tapas.
Le Verre Vole – 67 Rue de Lancry; 011-33-01-4803-1734;; among city’s best wine bars; perfect clams.
Vivant Table – 43 Rue des Petites Écuries; 011-33-01-4246-4355;‎; neo-bistro that is now destination for in-know diners; in restored apiary from 1903; walls covered floor-to-ceiling in hand-painted Gillardoni earthenware tiles; Atsumi Souta is master chef, his sous is Masaaki Yamamoto; 2 sittings, 1st from 7-9:30 pm & 2nd from 9:30-late.
Zerda Cafe – 15 Rue René Boulanger; 011-33-01-4200-2515; French-North African.

11th Arr.
Astier – 44 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud; 011-33-01-4357-1635;; excellent wine list, legendary cheese tray; 50s film-noir atmosphere; Sunday restaurant.
Bistrot Paul Bert – 18 Rue Paul Bert; 011-33-01-4372-2401;; calm, mostly unadorned restaurant; prix fixe menu offers pretty much everything kitchen turns out except côtes de boeuf, though usual supplementary charges for truffles, etc.
Le Bistrot du Peintre – 116 Avenue Ledru-Rollin; 011-33-01-4700-3439;; in stunning art nouveau building.
Pierre Sang Boyer – 55 Rue Oberkampf;; no telephone, no reservations; foodie destination; small plates.
Caffe dei Cioppi – 159 Rue Faubourg Saint-Antoine; 011-33-01-4346-1014;; charming, miniscule, universally adored trattoria.
Le Chateaubriand – 129 Avenue Parmentier; 011-33-01-4357-4595;; trendy bistro; here’s trick to getting table: park at bar around 8:30 pm and fortify self with people watching, snacks, and wine while waiting for table; 1st come 1st served for 9:30 seating; otherwise, make reservations at least 2 weeks in advance for 7:30 seating; 5-course menu that changes daily.
Le Dauphin – 131 Avenue Parmentier; 011-33-01-5528-7888;; marble design makes extremely loud; great affordable vins naturels selection.
L’Entrecote – 53 Rue Roquette; 011-33-01-4314-2583;; bistro.
Au P’tit Cahoua – 24 Rue Des Tallandiers; 011-33-01-4700-2042; Moroccan food.
Rino – 46 Rue Trousseau; 011-33-01-4806-9585;; Italian; like 1950s Greenwich Village beatnik bar on desolate, drab street.
Septime – 80 Rue de Charonne; 011-33-01-4367-3829;; contemporary French, market-driven venue; Bloomsbury Group sort-of tradition; refined and relaxed, with polite, house-party-in-country style hospitality; emphasis on produce.

12th Arr.
Auberge Le Quincy – 28 Avenue Ledru-Rollin; 011-33-01-4628-4676;; cubbyhole restaurant; among Paris’ best chocolate mousses; excellent rabbit.
Le China – 50 Rue de Charenton; 011-33-01-4346-0809;; Colonial chic bar in Bastille’s backyard; in-house restaurant, but cocktails are really point.
La Gazetta – 29 Rue de Cotte; 011-33-01-4347-4705;; chic without fuss or pretension; foodie destination.
Le Train Bleu – 1st Stage, Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand; 011-33-01-4343-0906;; belle-epoque restaurant at Gare de Lyon train station.
Au Trou Gascon – 40 Rue Taine; 011-33-01-4344-3426;; specializes in “round” cassoulet.
Au Va et Vient – 6 Place Félix Eboué; 011-33-01-4344-4636; outdoor tables.

14th Arr. (includes Montparnasse)
La Cantine du Troquet – 101 Rue Ouest; 011-33-01-4540-0498;; low prices with really good red wine by liter; considered best troquet (“watering hole”); desserts so-so; no reservations.
Le Dome – 108 Boulevard Montparnasse; 011-33-01-4335-3482; reservatons required; Parisian institution since 1920s; excellent seafood in attractive, wood-paneled décor with art deco stained glass windows and leather benches.
La Regalade – 49 Avenue Jean Moulin; 011-33-01-4545-6858;; storied food beloved by locals.

15th Arr.
Le Pere Claude – 51 Avenue La Motte Picquet; 011-33-01-4734-0305;; famous rotisserie; good Sunday restaurant.

16th Arr.
L’Astrance – 4 Rue Beethoven; 011-33-01-4050-8440;; casual and small, with 25 seats.
Le Chalet des Iles – Porte de la Muette (Bois de Boulogne); 011-33-01-4288-0469;; dinner on island garden in middle huge park.
Cristal Room – 11 Place des Etats-Unis (at Hotel de Noailles); 011-33-01-4022-1110;; sumptuously appointed; at dinner, room suffused with exquisite glow cast by candelabra and, of course, Baccarat chandeliers; step into 10-seat, terraced private dining room to view 1st black-crystal chandelier Baccarat ever created.
Les Jardins de Bagatelle – 42 Route de Sevres a Neuilly, Parc de Bagatelle; 011-33-01-4088-8887;; country dining at city edge.
Le Pre Catalan – Route de Suresnes (Bois de Bologne); 011-33-01-4414-4114;; live Belle Epoque fantasy; dine beneath chestnut trees on this fanciful landmark pavillon’s terrace; semi-reasonable lunch menu.
Le Stella – 133 Avenue Victor Hugo; 011-33-01-5690-5600;; sacred Sunday restaurant.

18th Arr.
Le Bal Cafe – 6 Impasse de la Défense; 011-33-01-4470-7551;; in winter, order gigot d’agneau; also, great coffee and dessert (sticky toffee pudding); English-inflected.
Cheri Bibi – 15 Rue Andre Del Sartre; 011-33-01-4254-8896;; bar-restaurant popular with locals.
Sale e Pepe – 30 Rue Ramey; 011-33-01-4606-0801; excellent pizza.
Table d’Eugene – 18 Rue Eugene Sue; 011-33-01-4255-6164;; difficult to find in Montmartre but worth effort.

19th Arr.
Au Boeuf Couronne – 188 Avenue Jean-Juares (La Villette); 011-33-01-4239-4444;; superb potatoes and steak, Sunday restaurant; worth special visit.

20th Arr.
Le Baratin – 3 Rue Jouye Rouve (Menilmontant); 011-33-01-4349-3970;; around for more than 20 years; inventive yet comforting cooking.
Chez Luna – 108 Rue Menilmontant; 011-33-01-4636-7226; inexpensive, sidewalk café with excellent city views; try steak au poivre and flan normand.
La Feline – 6 Rue Victor Letalle; 011-33-01-4033-0866;; punkish bar that serves some food.
Meli Mellow – 55 bis Rue de Bagnolet; small bistro-cum-diner; bagels, burgers, and pizzas.

Hotellerie du Bas Breau – 22, Grande Rue, Barbizon; 011-33-01-6066-4005;; elegant restaurant popular with Parisians; well-prepared, local, seasonal game.

Chez Vous – 1001 Bridgeway (Sausalito, CA); 415-331-2535;; specializes in apartment rentals in 1st, 4th, 5th, 6th, and 7th Arrondissements.
Chic Shopping Paris – 011-33-6-7765-0801 or 011-33-6-1456-2311;; variety of shopping tour options.
Haven in Paris – 37 Somerset Road; 617-395-4243;; high-end luxury apartment rentals throughout city.

1st Arr.
Spa Anne Fontaine – 370 Rue St-Honore; 011-33-01-4261-0370;; eco-friendly.

2nd Arr.
Christophe Robin – 22 Rue Saint-Augustin; 011-33-01-4020-9212;; “the” place to have blond coloring done.

4th Arr.
Context Travel – 14 Rue Charles V; 011-33-01-7281-3635, 215-609-4471 (US number that rings in France), or 800-691-6036;; scholar and specialist network (archaeology, art history, classics, cuisine, environmental science, history, and urban planning); designs and leads small groups (6 maximum) on walking tours.

6th Arr. (includes Saint-Germain)
Bel-Ami Hotel – 7-11 Rue Saint-Benoit; 011-33-01-4261-5353;; spa and wellness center with Payot products.
Paris Through Expatriate Eyes – 15 Rue Saint-Romain; 011-33-6-7098-1368;; walking tours.

7th Arr.
Paris Luxury Rentals – 13 Rue Saint-Dominique; 011-33-6-6020-4436;; high-end luxury apartment rentals throughout city.

8th Arr.
Dior Institute – 25 Avenue Montaigne (at Plaza Athenee); 011-33-01-5367-6535;; fitness and spa center.
Institut Francoise Morice – 58 Bis Rue Francois; 011-33-01-4225-5888; francois-morice.en; old-school institute (don’t be put off by sterile waiting area).
Lancome – 29 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4265-3074;; best tanning salon in city.
Mell – 8 Rue Royale; 011-33-01-4020-0133; latest in manicures and pedicures; best pedicures in city.
Spa Joiya – 6 Rue de la Renaissance; 011-33-01-4070-1649;; Russian spa popular with celebrities; get Russie Blanche massage (1.5 hours).

13th Arr.
Secrets of Paris – 77 Avenue des Gobelins; 011-33-01-4336-6985;; American expat-journalist Heather Stimmler-Hall navigates small groups for shopping tours.

18th Arr.
Perfectly Paris – 8 Square de Clignancourt; 011-33-06-7706-8587; high-end luxury apartment rentals throughout city.
Paris Walks – 12 Passage Meunier (Saint-Denis); 011-33-01-4809-2140;; take Marais excursion (2 hours), which includes architecturally splendid townhouses, Shoah memorial, and 17th Century St-Paul-St-Louis Church.

1st Arr.
Astier de Villatte – 173 Rue Saint-Honoré; 011-33-01-4260-7413;; high-end household accoutrements.
Atelier du Bracelet Parisien – 28 Place Marche Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4286-1370;; luxury, designed leather goods, especially watches (Rolex, etc.).
Boutique Costes – 239 Rue Saint-Honore (Ile de France, at Hotel Costes); 011-33-01-4244-5000;; famous for candles; get bougie l’orange (cardamom, coffee, and oranges) variety.
Causse Gantier – 12 Rue de Castiglione; 011-33-01-4926-9143;; 116 year-old glove manufacturer.
Chanel Boutique – 31 Rue Cambon; 011-33-01-4450-6600;; accessories, fragrances, handbags, jewelry, make-up, ready-to-wear, shoes, etc.
Christian Laboutin – 19 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau; 011-33-01-4236-5366;; shoes.
CMO – 5 Rue Chabanais; 011-33-01-4020-4598;; window-treatment fabric store.
Colette Boutique – 213 Rue Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-5535-3390;; “lifestyle” store; basement has lunch hangout around.
Lydia Courteille – 231 Rue Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4261-1171;; creative, antique, and inventive jewelry.
E. Dehillerin – 18 Rue Coquilliere; 011-33-01-4236-5313;; kitchenware store.
Delage – 15 Rue de Valois; 011-33-01-4015-9724;; sophisticated, beautifully designed shoes.
Didier Ludot – 33 Rue Valois; 011-33-01-4296-0656;; in 1975, Didier Ludot virtually invented vintage clothing market in Paris; select vintage originals merely inspire his yearly collection of petite couture (hand-finished little black dresses); also carries what he considers “significant” pieces.
Didier Ludot – 24 Galerie Montpensier; 011-33-01-4296-0656;; vintage wear.
Eat Me – 38 Rue Leopold Bellan; 011-33-01-4236-1828;; high design, on-go food.
Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle – 21 Rue du Mont Thabor; 011-33-01-4222-1689;; only outlet of organization founded in 2000 by master perfumer, Frederic Malle.
Egle Bespoke – 26 Rue du Mont Thabor; 011-33-01-4415-9831;; custom-made shirts.
Ekobo – 4 Rue Herold; 011-33-01-4508-4743;; handmade, bamboo home accessories made in Viet Nam and imported to France.
Fifi Chachnil – 231 Rue Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4261-2183;; lingerie.
Fifi Chachnil – 68 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau; 011-33-01-4221-0025;; lingerie.
Galerie du Passage – 20 Galerie Vero-Dodat; 011-33-01-4236-0113;; curator and antiquarian Pierre Passebon, stocks best 20th Century French furniture, as well as works by contemporary artists.
Maison E. Goyard – 233 Rue Saint-Honoré; 011-33-01-4260-5704;; leather and luggage.
Goyard Malletier – 352 Rue St-Honore; 011-33-01-4260-5704;; known for luggage; boutique devoted to accessories for pets and picnics.
Guillaumot – 19 Rue Valois; 011-33-6-7483-0356; rare books.
Pierre Hardy – 15 Rue Valois; 011-33-01-4260-5975;; chain; shoes for men and women.
Pierre Herme – 4 Rue Cambon; 011-33-01-4354-4777;; chocolate and macaron shop.
Jean-Paul Hevin – 231 Rue Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-5535-3596;; try caramel buche or tarte au chocolate.
Paule Ka – 223 Rue Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4029-0306;; exquisite dresses.
Librairie Galignani – 224 Rue de Rivoli; 011-33-01-4260-7607;; 1st English bookshop on European continent (1802).
Serge Lutens – 142 Galerie de Valois; 011-33-01-4927-0909;; perfumier.
Madame Andre – 34 Rue du Mont Thabor; 011-33-01-4296-2724; Gilles Dufour collection plus inexpensive item mix (e.g., colorful bangles from India), displayed in candy-pink interior.
Maison Darre – 32 Rue du Mont Thabor; 011-33-01-4260-2797;; anatomically-themed furniture (aluminum femur mirrors, etc.).
Maison Fabre – 129 Galerie de Valois; 011-34-01-4260-7588;; famous for crocodile gloves.
Maria Luisa Femme – 7 Rue Rouget de L’Isle; 011-33-01-4703-9615; ultra haute couture and designers (off-the-rack); avant-garde and classic designers; swimwear.
Masomenos – 34 Rue du Mont Thabor; 011-33-01-4296-6178;; high-style novelty items, including: jewelry, stickers, and toys; also custom-designed Lucien Pellat-Finet cashmere sweaters emblazoned with cartoons.
Repossi – 6 Place Vendome; 011-33-01-4296-4234;; jewelry.
Rodolphe Menudier – 14 Rue Castiglione; 011-33-01-4260-8627;; boutique that elevates shoe buying into artistic experience akin to visit to high-tech, postmodern museum.
E.B. Meyrowitz Opticiens – 5 Rue de Castiglione; 011-33-01-4260-6364;; fabulous designer and exclusive Meyrowitz line frames and sunglasses.
minaPoe – 382 Rue Saint-Honoré; 011-33-01-4261-0641;; hand-crocheted wraps and other accessories.
Neila Vintage & Design – 28 Rue du Mont Thabor; 011-33-01-4295-8870;; vintage wear; lots of merchandise in back; Cardin, Chanel, Givenchy & Yves St. Laurent.
Zero One One – 2 Rue de Marengo; 011-33-10-4927-0011;; cookware and modern tableware.

2nd Arr.
Baccarat – 17 Rue de la Paix; 011-33-01-4244-1845;; sells only women’s jewelry, in which real gemstones sometimes interspersed with cut crystal for flashy “is it real or is it fake” look.
G. Detou – 58 Rue Tiquetonne; 011-33-01-4236-5467;; baking products.
Georges Le Manach – 31 Rue Quatre Septembre; 011-33-01-4742-5294;; fabrics and textiles.

3rd Arr. (includes Marais)
Calesta Kidstore – 23 Rue Debelleyme; 011-33-01-4272-1559;; sparse concept store sells trendiest European accessories and clothes for children.
CSAO – 9 Rue Elzevir; 011-33-01-4271-3317;; Valerie Schlumberger’s African fair-trade bazaar.
Diptyque – 8 Rue de Francs Bourgeois; 011-33-01-4459-8751;; candles.
L’Eclaireur – 40 Rue de Sevigne; 011-33-01-4887-1022;; lesser-known and undiscovered labels, along with some major labels; decorated with exotic taxidermy.
Galerie De Bayser – 69 Rue Sainte-Anne; 011-33-01-4703-4987;; furniture and sculpture design gallery.
Emanuel Perrotin – 76 Rue de Turenne; 011-33-01-4216-7979;; avant-garde, modern art gallery.
Etat Libre d’Orange – 69 Rue des Archives; 011-33-01-4278-3009;; candles and perfumes.
FrenchTrotters – 116 Rue Vieille du Temple; 011-33-01-4461-0014;; mens’ clothing.
Galerie Dansk – 31 Rue Charlot; 011-33-01-4271-4595;; mid-century modern, Danish furniture.
Galerie Karsten Greve – 5 Rue Debelleyme; 011-33-01-4277-1937;; art.
Jacques Genin – 133 Rue de Turenne; 011-33-01-4577-2901;; chocolate and pastry shop; caramel éclairs outstanding; try also chocolates flavored with fresh mint, tea, and grapefruit zest; also caramel cream-filled Paris-Brest and perhaps chocolat chaud.
L’Habilleur – 44 Rue du Poitou; 011-33-01-4887-7712; serious discount country; as much as half price; as with any discount store, stock varies hugely from week to week; small section for men, but emphasis is on top-of-line pret-a-porter for women.
Hoses – 41 Rue de Poitou; 011-33-01-4278-8062;; accessories (handbags and shoes).
Kulte – 76 Rue Vieille du Temple; 011-33-01-4221-0509;; Marseille-based men’s wear; balances between formality and street style; fair prices.
Lemaire – 28 Rue de Poitou; 011-33-01-4478-0001;; artistic Lacoste director’s private label store.
Lieu Commun – 5 Rue Filles du Calvaire; 011-33-01-4454-0830; lieucommun.en; futuristic funhouse selling Matali Crasset housewares, electronic music, and streetwear.
Massaro – 2 Rue de la Paix; 011-33-01-4261-0029;; handmade shoes for men and women; makes shoes for Chanel, etc.
Merci Merci – 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais; 011-33-01-4277-0033;; high fashion and contemporary casual clothing and home goods; profits dedicated to Madagascar-based women’s charity.
OneNineSixOne – 135 Rue Vieille-du-Temple; 011-33-01-4272-5084;; vintage America and France photographs transposed into canvas wall-hangings and lampshades.
Le Petit Atelier de Paris – 31 Rue Montmorency; 011-33-01-4454-9140;; ceramic and wood home accessories.
Quidam de Revel – 55 Rue Petites Ecuries; 011-33-01-4271-5360; vintage boutique.

4th Arr.
Azzedine Alaia – 7 Rue de Moussy; 011-33-01-4272-3069; apartment/boutique/workshop covered with Julian Schnabel artwork; not place you casually wander into out of curiosity; sales staff immediately makes you feel awkward.
Caravane – 6 Rue Pavee; 011-33-01-4461-7140;; Moroccan imports.
Different Company – 10 Rue Ferdinand Duval; 011-33-01-4278-1934;; perfumes; counterculture chic shop; scents include Osmanthus, Sel de Vétiver, and Rose Poivree, called “fragrances for 21st Century.”
L’Eclaireur – 12 Rue Malher; 011-33-01-4454-2211;; lesser-known and undiscovered labels, along with some major labels; decorated with exotic taxidermy.
A L’Elegance d’Autrefois – 5 Rue du Pas De La Mule; 011-33-01-4887-7884; vintage clothing and accessories.
Au Fil d’Elise – 2 Rue Ave Maria; 011-33-01-4804-7561;; early 20th Century clothing.
Annick Goutal – 3 Bis Rue Rosiers; 011-33-01-4887-8011;; chain; signature scent line, which comes packaged in gilded gauze purses; rose, tuberose, and sable scents sold here exclusively.
Florence Kahn – 24 Rue des Ecouffes; 011-33-01-4887-9285;; Jewish bakery, famed for fig strudel.
Maison Libraire Ulysse – 26 Rue-Saint-Louis-en-Ile; 011-33-01-4325-1735;; travel bookstore.
Lima Select – 15-17 Rue St-Paul; 011-33-01-4278-2839;; unusual doll and figurine emporium.
Miller et Bertaux – 17 Rue Ferdinand Duval; 011-33-01-4271-7725;; body lotions, candles, and perfumes.
Papier+ – 9 Rue Pont Louis Philippe; 011-33-01-4277-7049;; high-end paper products (dossiers, presentation boxes, etc.).
Sentou – 26 Boulevard Raspail; 011-33-01-4549-0005;; furniture, lighting, and textiles by emerging designers and established names.
Le XXeme Siecle et Ses Sources – 4 Rue Aubry le Boucher; 011-33-01-4278-1549; architecture and art books.

5th Arr. (includes Latin Quarter)
Claude Nature – 32 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-01-4407-3079;; fossils, bones, feathers, butterflies, taxidermy stuff.
Diptyque – 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-01-4326-7744;; candles.
Franck Kestener – 7 Rue Gay-Lussac; 011-33-01-4326-4091;; chocolatier; artisan-certified; try pear-saffron.
Les Papilles – 30 Rue Gay-Lussac; 011-33-01-4325-2079;; provisions and wine shop; also, bistro.
Shakespeare & Co. – 37 Rue Bûcherie; 011-33-01-4325-4093;; books.

6th Arr. (includes Saint-Germain)
Adelline – 54 Rue Jacob; 011-33-01-4703-0718;; jewelry; Adelline Roussel creates understated bracelets, dangling earrings, and necklaces out of unpolished gold set with opaque ruby, smoky topaz, and lemon quartz from Brazil, etc.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac – 61 Rue des Saint-Peres; 011-33-9-6448-4854;; aristocrat fashion designer whose inspiration comes from unexpected places, like Paradise Lost and Donald Duck.
Hermes – 17 Rue de Sevres; 011-33-01-4222-8083;; built in former swimming pool; café, florist, and 3 ashwood “huts” displaying merchandise.
Laduree – 16 Rue Royale; 011-33-01-4260-2179;; high-end department store with excellent candies and desserts.
Laduree – 21 Rue Bonaparte; 011-33-01-4407-6487;; high-end department store with excellent candies and desserts.
Pierre Marcolini – 89 Rue de Seine; 011-33-01-4407-3907;; chain; Belgian chocolatier.
Mona – 17 Rue Bonaparte; 011-33-01-4407-0727; designer treasure-trove featuring Missoni, Bottega Veneta, and Alexander McQueen, etc., as well as shoes by Pierre Hardy and Chloe.
Odorantes – 9 Rue Madame; 011-33-01-4284-0300;; florist whose clients include fashion houses and Catherine Deneuve.
Parapluies Simon – 56 Boulevard Saint-Michel; 011-33-01-4354-1204;; accessories, mainly umbrellas.
Jean-Charles Rochoux – 16 Rue d’Assas; 011-33-01-4284-2945;; chain; chocolates.
Yves Saint Laurent – 6 Place Saint-Sulpice; 011-33-01-4329-4300;; on downhill slide.

7th Arr.
Le Bon Marche – 24 Rue Sevres; 011-33-01-4222-8160;; founded in 1852; among world’s 1st department stores.
CdeC – 93 Rue de Bac; 011-33-01-4503-2656;; children’s clothing; elegant, simple, and wallet-friendly.
Michel Chaudon – 149 Rue de l’Universite; 011-33-01-4753-7440;; among world’s best chocolatiers; try paves.
Debauve & Gallais – 30 Rue des Saint-Peres; 011-33-01-4548-5467;; plain but exquisite chocolate shop.
Deyrolle – 46 Rue de Bac; 011-33-01-4222-3007;; taxidermy and related items; recently, burned down but many items still available during reconstruction.
Galerie J Kugel – 25 Quai Anatole-France (at Palladian Hotel Collot); 011-33-01-4260-8623;; brothers, Nicolas and Alexis Kugels’ clients include countless Rothschilds, Hubert de Givenchy, and Henry Kravis; 4 floors superb antiques and eye-popping Renaissance jewelry.
Galerie Maeght Paris – 42 Rue du Bac; 011-33-01-4548-4515;; sells affordably priced art; walls lined with some of most famous examples; for under $50, can buy Miro reproduction; lithographs by Braque and others cost $155; many works of original art by contemporary names (Eduardo Arroyo, Aki Kuroda, and Valerio Adami – had for under $5,500; unusual books.
Galerie Naila de Monbrison – 6 Rue de Bourgogne; 011-33-01-4705-1115;; modern jewelry; 1st to show Tina Chow’s jewelry.
Muriel Grateau – 37 Rue de Beaune; 011-33-01-4020-4282;; design guru (fashion, tableware).
Hugo & Victor – 40 Boulevard Raspail; 011-33-01-4439-9773;; museum-like chocolate and pastry displays.
Iris, Paris – 28 Rue de Grenelle; 011-33-01-4222-8981;; Italian shoe manufacturer, Iris, makes shoes for Marc Jacobs, Chloe, John Galliano, Proenza Schouler, and Veronique Branquinho; world’s most complete selection of these brands.
Karry’O – 62 Rue des Saint-Peres; 011-33-01-4548-9467;; faux and real, antique and contemporary jewelry.
Marie Laure – 62 Rue du Bac; 011-33-01-4544-0550; hand-embroidered christening gowns.
Librairie 7L – 7 Rue de Lille; 011-33-01-4292-0358;; Karl Lagerfeld’s library/store; mostly photographic works.
Magasin Sennelier – 3 Quai Voltaire; 011-33-01-4260-7215;; ever since 1887, when Cezanne offered founder, Gustave Sennelier, tips on his Couleurs du Quai Voltaire formulations; Degas among 1st clients for 700-color range pastels; half-century later, house adapted formula at artist’s request (needed color that would adhere to any surface and specifically wanted 8 gray shades); Lagerfeld custom-orders sketch albums here; come on Mondays, when artists rendezvous to chat with Sennelier’s 4th-generation owners.
Molli – 252 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-01-4222-9090;; hand-knitted children’s wear.
Moulie Fleurs – 8 Place du Palais Bourbon; 011-33-01-4551-7843;; founded in 1870 by Alexandre Savart; entrusted 1 century later to Henri Moulie in 1978; Moulie undertook to further develop house into embassies’ and ministries’ regular supplier, as well as to Grandes Couturiers; prestigious floral arrangements.
L’Oiseau de Paradis – 211 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-01-4548-9790;; children’s toys.
Pain d’Epis – 63 Avenue Bosquet; 011-33-01-4551-7501;; bakery; try fougasse.
La Pâtisserie des Rêves – 93 Rue du Bac; 011-33-01-4284-0082;; patisserie.
Alexandra Sojfer – 218 Boulevard Saint-Germain; 011-33-01-4222-1702;; selling umbrellas since 1834.

8th Arr.
Apostrophe – 43 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4006-9160;; women’s clothing.
Baccarat – 11 Place de la Madeleine; 011-33-01-4265-3626;; opened in 1764; among Europe’s foremost, full-lead crystal purveyors.
Biondini – 78 Avenue Champs Elysees; 011-33-01-4359-1159;; largest, high-end shoe retailer in Paris.
Dalloyau – 101 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4299-9000;; centuries-old company; owner-family’s ancestors served Louis XIV at Versailles; try hazelnut macarons.
L’Eclaireur – 10 Rue Boissy d’Anglas; 011-33-01-5343-0370;; lesser-known and undiscovered labels, along with some major labels; decorated with exotic taxidermy.
L’Eclaireur – 26 Avenue des Champs Elysees; 011-33-01-4562-1232;; lesser-known and undiscovered labels, along with some major labels; decorated with exotic taxidermy.
L’Eclaireur – 39-41 Avenue Hoche (at Royal Monceau Raffles Hotel); 011-33-01-4299-8800;; lesser-known and undiscovered labels, along with some major labels; decorated with exotic taxidermy.
Fouquet’s – 22 Rue Francois; 011-33-01-4723-3036;; candies (great toffees, called Salvators).
Guerlain – 68 Avenue Champs Elysees; 011-33-01-4562-5257‎;; boutique on 1st floor; more than 70 scents.
Hobbs – 45 Rue Pierre-Charron; 011-33-01-4720-8322;; cashmere sweaters.
Laduree – 75 Avenue des Champs Elysees; 011-33-01-4075-0875;; macarons.
Mell – 8 Rue Royale; 011-33-01-4020-0133; sleek, stylish shoe store.
Au Nain Bleu – 5 Boulevard Malesherbes; 011-33-01-4265-2000;; custom clothing and toys for children since 1836.
Nouez Moi – 8 Rue Clement Marot; 011-33-01-4727-6988‎; house linens.
Scarlett – 10 Rue Clement-Marot; 011-33-01-5689-0300; exceptional vintage couture.
Giambattista Valli – 30 Rue Boissy d’Anglas; 011-33-01-8362-0904;; women’s clothing.
Veronese – 184 Boulevard Haussmann; 011-33-01-4562-6767;; glassware, lamps, and lighting.
Roger Vivier – 29 Rue Faubourg Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-5343-0085;; shoes, luggage, leather goods; make sure to try to visit upstairs, designer Bruno Frisoni’s studio.

9th Arr. (includes Pigalle)
Annabel – 36 Rue Martyrs; 011-33-01-4878-6548; bohemian wear.
La Cabine – 20 Rue Milton; 011-33-01-4285-0658;; accessories and clothing.
Fouquet’s – 36 Rue Laffitte; 011-33-01-4770-8500;; candies (great toffees, called Salvators).
Les Galeries Lafayette – 40 Boulevard Haussman; 011-33-01-4282-3456;; modeled after mideastern baazar; unique Belle Epoque architecture; opened in 1893; essential stop for fashion enthusiasts: men’s and women’s designer collections; latest in jewelry and accessories, home furnishings, and cosmetics; also gourmet food market, Lafayette Gourmet.
Les Papilles Gourmandes – 26 Rue des Martyrs (Pigalle); 011-33-01-4526-4289;; gourmet foods.
Hotel Drouot – 9 Rue Drouot; 011-33-01-4800-2000;; auction house with amazing antiques.
Laduree – 64 Boulevard Haussmann; 011-33-01-4282-4010;; macarons.
L’Oeuf – 9 Rue Clauzel; 011-33-01-4016-4139;; children’s and vintage stuff.
Printemps – 64 Boulevard Haussmann; 011-33-01-4282-5000;
3 Par 5 – 25 Rue Martyrs; 011-33-01-4453-9267;; accessories and clothing.

10th Arr.
La Cantine de Quentin – 52 Rue Bichat; 011-33-01-4202-4032;; grocery, take-out, and excellent cafe.
Dupleks – 83 Quai de Valmy (Canal Saint-Martin); 011-33-01-4206-1508;; eco-friendly fashions.
Espace Beaurepaire – 28 Rue Beaurepaire (Canal Saint-Martin); 011-33-01-4245-5964;; street-art prints.
Du Pain et Des Idees – 34 Rue Yve Toudic; 011-33-01-4240-4452;; cultish boulangerie in Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood; signature is pain des amis (moist, thick-crusted, wheaty); also try pain au chocolate with banana and escargot chocolat-pistache (snail-shaped pastry filled with chocolate and pistachio); also try mini-pavés (savory knots stuffed with spinach and goat cheese).
La Piñata – 25 Rue des Vinaigriers (Canal Saint-Martin); 011-33-01-4035-0145;; wooden children’s toys.
Sweat Shop – 13 Rue Lucien Sampaix (Canal Saint-Martin); 011-33-09-5285-4741;; funky D.I.Y. collective and cafe with sewing machines to rent by hour.

11th Arr.
Alter Mundi Mode – 39 Rue de Charonne; 011-33-01-4805-1181;; fair trade and ready-to-wear clothing and home accessories.
Le Pied de Biche – 86 Rue de Charonne; 011-33-06-9881-5666;; art gallery & bookstore.
La Cocotte – 5 Rue Paul Bert; 011-33-01-4373-0402;; cookbook store.
Andrea Crews – 25 Rue de Vaucouleurs; 011-33-01-4526-3668;; vintage transformed into fast fashion.
FrenchTrotters – 30 Rue de Charonne; 011-33-01-4700-8435;; mens’ and womens’ clothing.
Gaudel de Stampa – 3 Rue de Vaucouleurs; 011-33-01-4021-3738;; gallery.
Kulte – 35 Rue de Charonne; 011-33-01-4805-6835;; Marseille-based men’s wear; balances between formality and street style; fair prices.
Little FrenchTrotters – 28 Rue de Charonne; 011-33-01-4357-0409;; childrens’ clothing.
Maison POS – 90 Rue de Charonne; 011-33-01-4370-8301;; organic deli.
La Patisserie by Cyril Lignac – 24 Rue Paul Bert; 011-33-01-4348-1950;; contemporary interpretations of classic Parisian pastries.
Michel Vivien – 6 Rue de Nice; 011-33-01-4370-5088;; shoemaker specializing in ultra-femme sandals, slingbacks, and stilettoes.

12th Arr.
Marche d’Aligre Market – between Rues du Faubourg Saint-Antoine & de Charenton; 011-33-01-4343-3426;; lively, personable village-within-village; among last remaining covered markets.
Ble Sucre – 7 Rue Antoine Vollon (Square Trousseau); 011-33-01-4340-7773;; famous for madeleines and kouign amann.

13th Arr.
Art et Vegetal – 192 Rue de Tolbiac; 011-33-01-4581-2722;; florist.

15th Arr.
Poilane – 49 Boulevard de Grenelle; 011-33-01-4579-1149;; bakery.

16th Arr.
Maison Boissier – 184 Avenue Victor Hugo; 011-33-01-4503-5077;; chocolates, spices, and teas; open since 1827.
Decour Decoration – 9 Rue Copernic; 011-33-01-5365-1760; fabrics and custom-designed furniture and wall-coverings.
La Fromagerie d’Auteuil – 58 Rue d’Auteuil; 011-33-01-4525-0710;; cheese.
Le Jardin d'Antoine – 57 Rue Pompe; 011-33-01-4504-2939; as much artist as florist.
Au Nom de L’Orchidee – 67 Avenue Paul Doumer; 011-33-01-4050-0808; orchids in plain white vases, nestled in tissue paper and purple-and–lime green bags.
Patisserie Carette – 4 Place du Trocadero; 011-33-01-4727-9885;; among oldest, most beloved, salons in Paris; serves melt-in-your-mouth macarons.
Patrick Roger Chocolatier – 45 Avenue Victor Hugo; 011-33-01-4501-6671;; chain; chocolates.
Talmaris – 61 Avenue Mozart; 011-33-01-4288-2020;; called world’s smallest department store.
20 Sur 20 – 3 Rue des Lavandieres Saint-Opportune; 011-33-01-4508-4494; costume jewelry dating from 40s-60s, can be had at serious bargain prices.

17th Arr.
Baccarat – 3 Place du General Koenig (at Hotel Concorde La Fayette); 011-33-01-4068-5065;
Louise Feuillere – 102 Rue des Dames; 011-33-01-4293-1776;; hand-made undergarments.

18th Arr.
Establissements Lion – 7 Rue Abbesses; 0111-33-01-4606-6471;; beautifully packaged, French artisanal products; good for gifts.
Galerie Christine Diegoni – 47 ter Rue d’Orsel; 011-33-01-4264-6948;; midcentury modern “antiques.”
Marche aux Puces – Avenue de la Porte de Clignancourt (turn left, cross Boulevard Ney, and then walk north on Avenue de la Porte Montmartre);; flea market.
L’Oeil du Silence – 91 Rue des Martyrs; 011-33-01-4264-4540; high ceilinged, eclectic book and music store.
Spree – 16 Rue La Vieuville; 011-33-01-4223-4140;; international boutique with haut couture lines, as well as ready-to-wear.
Francois Tamarin – 1 Rue Marcel Sembat; 011-33-01-7277-9241;; corsets (yes: corsets).

19th Arr.
Bugada & Cargnel – 7 Rue de l’Equerre; 011-33-01-5355-1062;; gallery specializing in both French and international emerging artists.

20th Arr.
La Botica – 89 Rue de Bagnolet; 011-33-01-4348-4545;; young French fashion designers.
Causses – 55 Rue Notre-Dame de Lorette (Pigalle); 011-33-01-5316-1010;; fantastic gourmet store, cheeses & wines, oils, etc.
Marcelle Alix – 4 Rue Jouye-Rouve; 011-33-9-5004-1680;; gallery.
O Mille et Une Feves – 2 Rue Monte Cristo; 011-33-01-8306-6467;; chocolatier.
Au Nouveau Nez – 163 Rue de Bagnolet; 011-33-01-4372-0842;; wine shop that offers cheese and wine tastings in evening.
Le Rocketship – 13 Rue Henri Monnier (Pigalle); 011-33-01-4878-2366;; part housewares boutique, part cafe.

Marche Paul Bert – 96-110 Rue des Rosiers; 011-33-01-4011-5414;; mid-century modern furniture.

1st Arr.
59 Rivoli – 59 Rue de Rivoli;; art squat, recently taken over by city and renovated; in mid-19th Century Haussmann era building.
Le Laboratoire de Creation – 111 Rue Saint-Honore; 011-33-01-4026-1895;; art squat, recently taken over by city and renovated.
Louvre Museum – Rue du Louvre; 011-33-01-4020-5050;‎; Caravaggio’s Fortune Teller (1597), Death of Virgin (1601-1606) & Portrait of Alof de Wignacourt and His Page (1608).
Ministry of Culture & Communication – 182 Rue Saint-Honoré; 011-33-01-4015-7811;; Heritage Days information center on premises but that is not reason to visit; rather, extraordinary architecture makes this must-see stop; by architect Francis Soler; lattice-like metal frame placed over 19th Century classical building and its contemporary addition; see lobby, too.
Musee de la Mode et du Textile – 107 Rue de Rivoli; 011-33-01-4455-5750;; fashion museum.
Musee de L’Orangerie – Jardin des Tuileries (near Place de la Concorde); 011-33-01-4477-8007;; contemporary art museum.
Passage des Deux Pavillons – between Rue de Beaujolais & Rue des Petits Champs (steps from Palais Royale); crooked alley favored by local opera singers, who occasionally come to practice here on Sunday afternoons at 4 pm.

2nd Arr.
Bibliothèque Nationale Richelieu – 58 Rue de Richelieu (at Opéra & Grands Boulevards); 011-33-01–5379–5959;; originally built in 18th Century & most recent (massive) renovation through 2007; Labrouste reading room bears special visit; collection includes rare books, illuminated manuscripts, prints, photographs, musical scores, and coins & medals that once belonged to French kings; now hosts temporary exhibits, often culled from its impressive collections; insider tip: guided tours will gain access to library’s more historic sections and coins & medals museum; check calendar to see what exhibits are on view; also hosts well-done temporary exhibits, often featuring photography from its vast collection of legends such as Cartier-Bresson and Man Ray.

3rd Arr. (includes Marais)
Marche des Enfants Rouges – 39 Rue de Bretagne (Marais, enter on Rue Charlot); 011-33-01-4461-7070; oldest covered market in Paris; established in early 1600s.
Musee Carnavalet – 23 Rue Sevigne; 011-33-01-4459-5858;; set in two 16th-17th Century houses, showcases eclectic, Parisian history items.
Musee de la Chasse et de la Nature – 62 Rue des Archives (at Hotel de Mongelas); 011-33-01-5301-9240;; suprising mix of contemporary and historic artifacts; check out albino boar in taxidermy hall – it speaks!
Parc Royal – to south, borders Square Leopold Achille; to north, borders Rue Parc Royal, with many 17th Century mansions (Hotel Carnillac at #4, Duret Chevry at #8, de Vigny at #10, and Croisilles at #12); to east, Rue de Turenne ending at Rue Thorigny; so named because at one time led to Hotel Tournelles (French kings’ residence) gardens, which extended to current Place Vosges.
Picasso Museum – 5 Rue de Thorigny; 011-33-01-2171-2521;; recently refurbished and reopened.
Place des Vosges – straddles 3rd and 4th Arrondissements; built in 1600s by King Henry IV as town-planning model; important addresses are: #11 (occupied from 1639-1648 by courtesan Marion Delorme), #14 (Hôtel de la Rivière – its ceilings painted by Lebrun reinstalled in Musée Carnavalet), #15 (Marguerite Louise d’Orléans, Cosimo III de Medici’s wife), #17 (former Bossuet residence), #21 (Cardinal Richelieu from 1615-1627), and #23 (post-impressionist painter Georges Dufrénoy).
Rue Meslayin – entire street dedicated to shoes.
Rue St-Claude – art galleries.

4th Arr.
Centre Georges Pompidou – 19 Rue Beaubourg (Place Georges Pompidou); 011-33-01-4272-0882;; includes extensive Picasso collection on 5th floor.
Galerie des Bibliotheques – 22 Rue Malher; 011-33-01-4459-2960;; library gallery.
Maison Europeenne de la Photographie – 82 Rue Francois Miron; 011-33-01-4478-7500;; photography.
Rue Des Rosiers – Jewish Paris’ heart.
Sainte-Chapelle – 6 Boulevard du Palais (Ile-de-France); 011-33-01-5340-6080;; Gothic cathedral.
Village Saint-Paul – south of Rue de Rivoli (on Rue St-Paul, includes Rues Charlemagne & Charles V);; boutiques with antiques and “retrofinds.”

5th Arr. (includes Latin Quarter)
Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève – 10 Place du Panthéon; 011-33-01-4441-9797;; public & university library that inherited Abbey of St. Genevieve collection; contains around 2M documents; unbelievably gorgeous and worth special trip.
Cluny Museum (Musée National du Moyen Age) – 6 Place Paul Painleve; 011-33-01-5373-7800;; important Middle Ages tapestry collection; also, lovely architecture.
Grand Cinema Action – 5 Rue des Ecoles; 011-33-01-4354-4762;; non-dubbed American comedies, film noir, and Westerns.
Le Jardin des Plantes – 57 Rue Cuvier; 011-33-01-4079-5601;; grounds include 4 galleries (Grande Galerie de l’Évolution, Mineralogy Museum, Paleontology Museum & Entomology Museum); small zoo, founded in 1795 by Bernardin de Saint-Pierre from animals of royal menagerie at Versailles; botanical school, which trains botanists, constructs demonstration gardens & exchanges seeds to maintain biotic diversity; 4.5K plants arranged by family on 1 hectare plot; 3 hectares devoted to horticultural displays of decorative plants; Alpine garden has 3K species with world-wide representation; specialized buildings, such as large Art Deco winter garden, and Australian & Mexican hothouses display regional plants; Rose Garden, created in 1990, has 100s species of roses and rose trees.
Rue Mouffetard Street Market – Latin Quarter; neighborhood markets.
Museum of Natural History – 36 Rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire; 011-33-01-4079-3000;; make sure to see Grand Gallery of Evolution.

6th Arr. (includes Saint-Germaine)
Action Christine – 4 Rue Christine; 011-33-01-4325-8578;; non-dubbed American comedies, film noir, and Westerns.
Basilique Sainte-Clotilde – 23 bis Rue Las Cases; 011-33-01-4418-6260;; beautiful church in perfect location for urban picnic.
Musee Dupuytren Paris – Centre des Cordeliers, 15 Rue de l’Ecole de Médecine; 011-33-01-4234-6860;; anatomical items illustrating diseases & malformations; established in 1835 by Mathieu Orfila as Museum of Pathological Anatomy, with bequest of Baron Guillaume Dupuytren, anatomist & celebrated surgery professor; still retains superb collection, including specimens dating from 17th Century, as well as wax anatomical models, books & photographs; among many other notable items, museum contains brains of aphasic patients, preserved in alcohol by celebrated anatomist Paul Pierre Broca, and used in his research in localization of brain functions.
Stein Salon – 27 Rue de Fleurus (Left Bank); location of Gertrude Stein’s & Alice B. Toklas’ former home; also Leo Stein’s former home in early 1900s; renowned Saturday evening gathering place for both expatriate American artists & writers & others noteworthy in vanguard arts & letters world, most notably Pablo Picasso; principal attraction was collection of Paul Cézanne oils & watercolors & early pictures by Henri Matisse & Pablo Picasso, hung to ceiling; dining room double doors lined with Picasso sketches; on typical Saturday evening, Stein at her post in atelier, garbed in brown corduroy, sitting in high-backed Renaissance chair, her legs dangling, next to big cast-iron stove that heated chilly room; few feet away, Leo Stein would expound to visitors on modern art; in 1933, Stein published memoir of her Paris years, Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas, written in Toklas’ voice; literary bestseller that vaulted Stein from relative obscurity into mainstream attention; gatherings in Stein home brought together confluences of talent & thinking that helped define modernism; dedicated attendees included Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Guillaume Apollinaire, Sinclair Lewis, James Joyce, Ezra Pound, Thornton Wilder, Juan Gris, Sherwood Anderson, Francis Cyril Rose, René Crevel, Élisabeth de Gramont, Francis Picabia, Claribel Cone, Mildred Aldrich, Carl Van Vechten & Henri Matisse.

7th Arr.
Eiffel Tower – 5 Avenue Anatole France; 011-33-08-9270-1239;
Lavirotte Building – 29 Avenue Rapp;; not open to public; designed by architect Jules Lavirotte & built 1899-1901; facade lavishly decorated with sculpture & ceramic tiles made by ceramics manufacturer Alexandre Bigot; Lavirotte awarded prize for most original new facade in 7th arrondissement in 1901; building today among best-known surviving Art Nouveau architecture examples in Paris; Lavirotte ultimately 3 times awarded prizes by city of Paris for most original facades: (1) Lavirotte Building; (2) Ceramic Hotel, 34 Avenue de Wagram (8th Arr.); & (3) building at 23 Avenue de Messine (8th Arr.).
Musee du Quai Branly – 27 Quai Branly; 011-33-01-5661-7000;; African, American, Asian, and Oceanian indigenous art, civilizations, and cultures.
Rue Cler Street Market – neighborhood market.
Musee Rodin – 21 Boulevard des Invalides; 011-33-01-4418-6110;
La Pagode – 57 bis Rue de Babylone; 011-33-9-6223-0533;; Japanese pagoda built in 1895; well-kept secret and absolute delight; ornate Japanese gardens surround building and provide ideal place to sit around chewing fat over whatever film just seen; tea house provides refreshments; arthouse, foreign, cult, and independent new releases.
Sewer Museum – 93 Quai d’Orsay; 011-33-01-5368-2781;; Paris developed its 1st sewage system around 1200 CE, when King Philippe Auguste declared all streets be paved, with drain running along middle for waste; today, some 1.3K well-organized tunnel miles lie under city and travelers can explore 1.5K' via sidewalks running along walls; hold your breath and take plunge into city’s pungent underbelly (some say stench isn’t as bad as you might imagine); while underground, be on lookout for wagon-vanne, trolley that is essentially manual flusher, helping to keep canals clear.

8th Arr.
Arc de Triomphe – Place de l’Etoile; 011-33-01-5537-7377;
C42 – 42 Champs-Élysées; 011-33-08-1042-4200;; Citroen showroom designed by female French architect Manuelle Gautrand; glass and steel facade; open to public and worth visit.
Espace – pedestrian walkway running parallel to Champs Elysees (just east of Place de la Concorde); good place to rest few when shopping Champs Elysees or attending exhibit at Grand Palais; Pierre Cardin’s space for young artists.
Ferris Wheel in Place de la Concorde –; city’s best view.
Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais – 3 Avenue du General Eisenhower; 011-33-01-4413-1717;; main gallery under soaring glass roof; impressive turn-of-last-century structure from outside; built for 1900 World’s Fair; recently opened Mini Palais ( is restaurant and lounge that opens onto heated, columned terrace overlooking Pont Alexandre III; outdoor settees make memorable spot for drink.
Jeu de Paume – 1 Place de la Concorde; 011-33-01-4703-1250;; museum.
Musee Nissim de Camondo – 63 Rue de Monceau; 011-33-01-5389-0650;; 18th Century decorative arts; pre-WWI town-house donated by Comte Moise de Camondo in memory of his son, Nissim, French aviator killed in WWI combat; aristocratic home rich with antiques, bas-reliefs, Chinese vases, crystal chandeliers, needlepoint chairs, paintings, tapestries (many from Aubusson or Beauvais), paintings, Savonnerie carpets, Sevres porcelain, silver, and even Houdon bust; Blue Salon, overlooking Parc Monceau, most impressive; original kitchen in original form (Belle Epoque).
Parc Monceau – junction of Boulevard de Courcelles, Rue de Prony, and Rue Georges Berger; lovely, with monument to Guy de Maupassant.

9th Arr. (includes Pigalle)
Gustave Moreau Museum – 14 Rue de la Rochefoucauld; 011-33-01-4874-3850;; his home, frozen in time; worth special visit for spiral staircase alone.
Palais Garnier – 8 Rue Scribe; 011-33-01-7125-2423;; 2K-seat opera house built 1861-75 for Paris Opera; architecture is combination Baroque Revival, Beaux-Arts & Second Empire; probably most famous opera house in world; symbol of Paris like Notre Dame Cathedral, Louvre, or Sacré Coeur Basilica; setting for Gaston Leroux’s 1910 novel Phantom of Opera; ceiling area, which surrounds chandelier, originally painted by Jules Eugène Lenepveu; in 1964 new ceiling painted by Marc Chagall installed on removable frame over original, depicting scenes from operas by 14 composers – Mussorgsky, Mozart, Wagner, Berlioz, Rameau, Debussy, Ravel, Stravinsky, Tchaikovsky, Adam, Bizet, Verdi, Beethoven & Gluck.

10th Arr.
Canal Saint-Martin – gentrifying neighborhood filled with trendy shops.

11th Arr.
Musee Edith Piaf – 5 Rue Crespin du Gast; 011-33-01-4355-5272;; by appointment only.

12th Arr.
Rue du Chemin Vert – street follows walking path through market gardens; green highway that wends through 12th Arrondissement; sometimes below street level; sometimes over old viaduct; occasionally cutting right through building nearby are Canal Saint-Martin and Place des Vosges.
La Cinematheque Francaise – 51 Rue de Bercy; 011-33-01-7119-3200;; largest cinema document and film collection in world.

13th Arr.
Butte-aux-Cailles – means “quail hill,” although name actually comes from Pierre Caille, who bought vineyard here in 1543; although 13th Arrondissement home to Chinatown and small, vibrant North African population, neighborhood is festive and young Parisian population, in bars and restaurants; village feel as incorporated into Paris only in late 19th Century.
Les Docks, Cite de la Mode et du Design – 34 Quai d’Austerlitz;; chic, new riverfront design and fashion center, with bars, nightclubs, restaurants, schools, and shops.
Les Frigos – 19 Rue des Frigos; 011-33-01-4423-7620;; art squat, recently taken over by city and renovated.
Square Henri-Rousselle – off Place Paul Verlaine; where 1st hot-air balloon flight landed in 1783.

14th Arr. (includes Montparnasse)
Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art – 261 Boulevard Raspail; 011-33-01-4218-5650;; modern art collection.
Henri Cartier-Bresson Foundation – 2 Impasse Lebouis; 011-33-01-5680-2700;
Catacombes des Paris – 1 Avenue du Colonel Henri Roi-Tanguy; 011-33-01-4322-4763;
Montparnasse Cemetery – 3 Boulevard Edgar Quinet (Montparnasse); 011-33-01-4410-8650;; notable burials include: Shapour Bakhtiar (Iran’s last constitutional prime minister); Frédéric Bartholdi (Statue of Liberty’s sculptor); Charles Baudelaire; Simone de Beauvoir; Samuel Beckett; Paul Belmondo; Constantin Brâncuşi; Brassaï; Julio Cortázar; Porfirio Díaz; Alfred Dreyfus; Jules Dumont d’Urville (1790-1842, South Pacific explorer & Venus de Milo’s discoverer); Marguerite Duras; Émile Durkheim; Henri Fantin-Latour; Carlos Fuentes; Serge Gainsbourg; Joris-Karl Huysmans; Eugène Ionesco; Kiki (1901-1953, singer, actress, painter, “Queen of Montparnasse”); Guy de Maupassant; Mireille; Maria Montez; Philippe Noiret; Jules Henri Poincaré; Pierre-Joseph Proudhon; Man Ray; Éric Rohmer; Camille Saint-Saëns; Jean-Paul Sartre; Jean Seberg; & Susan Sontag; perhaps most touchingly, grave at cemetery’s farthest end (corner of Boulevards Edgar Quinet and Raspail), is that of Tania Rachevskaia, 29 year-old Russian anarchist who committed suicide after unhappy love affair; her friend asked Brâncuşi to provide tombstone, which he did (lovely statue called Kiss).

16th Arr.
Bois de Boulogne – along 16th Arrondissement’s western edge, near Boulogne-Billancourt & Neuilly-sur-Seine suburbs; 011-33-01-5392-8282;; created between 1852-58 under Emperor Louis Napoleon; Paris’ 2nd largest park, only slightly smaller than Bois de Vincennes (eastern city side); 2.1K acres); within its boundaries are English landscape garden (with several lakes & cascade), 2 smaller botanical & landscape gardens, Château de Bagatelle & Pré-Catelan, zoo & amusement park (in Jardin d’Acclimatation), Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil, greenhouse complex (holding 100K plants), 2 horse racing tracks (Hippodrome de Longchamp & Auteuil Hippodrome) & tennis stadium where French Open held; recent addition is Louis Vuitton Foundation for Creation.
Palais de Tokyo Museum – 13 Avenue du President-Wilson; 011-33-01-4723-5401;; contemporary art museum in 1930s art deco building.
Pavillon de l’Eau – 77 Avenue de Versailles; 011-33-01-4224-5402;; water-themed educational pavillion.

17th Arr.
Musee Henner – 43 Avenue de Villiers; 011-33-01-4763-4273;; small museum in lovely 2nd Empire building; painter Jean Jacques Henner’s works.

18th Arr.
Barbes Palace Cinéma (now Kata shoe store) – 34 boulevard Barbes; Kata is bargain shoe bazaar; would never guess from outside (store front is so unremarkable), but if you make your way through narrow entryway of discounted sneaker baskets & ballerina bins, room opens up & suddenly, you’re standing inside forgotten old theatre.
Cimetiere de Montmartre – 20 Avenue Rachel; 011-33-01-4387-6424;; Dalida, Degas, Dumas, Nijinsky, Offenbach, Adophe Sax (saxophone inventor), Stendahl, and Truffaut buried here; beautiful stained glass; note that on plaques on walls around cemetery identify famous composers’ homes (Berlioz, Satie, etc.).
Halle Saint Pierre – 2 Rue Ronsard; 011-33-01-4258-7289;; contemporary Outsider art collection is welcome respite from stuffier museums.
Moulin Rouge – 82 Boulevard de Clichy; 011-33-01-5309-8282;; dance hall and theater.
Sacré Coeur (La Basilique du Sacré Cœur de Montmartre) – 35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre; 011-33-01-5341-8900;; “white castle in sky,” perched atop Montmartre; French government built this church in 1873 as symbol of self-confidence return after Commune and Franco-Prussian War years; designed by architect Paul Abadie, using elements from Byzantine and Romanesque architectural styles; construction lasted until WWI; church consecrated in 1919.
Studio 28 – 10 Rue Tholoze (Montmartre); 011-33-01-4606-3607;; arthouse films.
Theatre le Trianon – 80 Boulevard Rochechouart; 011-33-01-4492-7808;; music hall.

19th Arr.
Le Centquatre – 104 Rue d’Aubervilliers; 011-33-01-5335-5000;; massive brick and steel building that houses various artists in residence.

20th Arr.
Père Lachaise Cemetery – 16 Rue du Repos (at Boulevard de Ménilmontant); 011-33-01-5525-8210;; world’s most visited cemetery; opened in 1804; 70K ornate, even ostentatious, tombs of rich and/or famous; basically, 44-hectare sculpture garden; most visited are those of 1960s rock star Jim Morrison (division 6) & Oscar Wilde (division 89); maps at conservation office (near main Boulevard de Ménilmontant entrance); other notables buried here are Chopin, Molière, Apollinaire, Balzac, Proust, Gertrude Stein & Colette, Sarah Bernhardt & Yves Montand, Pissarro, Seurat, Modigliani & Delacroix, Édith Piaf & Isadora Duncan; also of interest, more for tale than tomb, is Mur des Fédérés (Federalists’ Wall); on May 27, 1871, last Communard insurgents, cornered by government forces, fought hopeless, all-night battle among tombstones; in morning, 147 survivors lined up against this completely ordinary, plain brick wall, shot & buried where fell in mass grave.
La Miroiterie – 88 Rue de Menilmontant; 011-33-01-4358-0128;; art squat.

21st Arr.
Comédie Française – 1 Place Colette; 011-33-08-2510-1680;

La Chapelle St. Blaise des Simples – Rue Jean Moulin (La Chapelle Saint Blaise des Simples, Milly-la-Foret); 011-33-01-6498-8494;; Jean Cocteau’s chapel.
Chateau de Fontainebleau – Place du Général de Gaulle; 011-33-01-6071-5070;; French gardens (with canal and pond) especially impressive; make sure to see Salle de Bal.

Musee Rodin – Villa des Brillants, 19 Avenue Auguste Rodin; 011-33-01-4114-3500;; since 1893, Rodin lived here with Rose Beurret, whom he married shortly before their deaths; both buried here; museum has huge plaster cast collection.

Château de Malmaison – Avenue du Château de Malmaison; 011-33-01-4129-0555;; former Joséphine de Beauharnais residence; with Tuileries, from 1800-02, French government headquarters; Joséphine bought manor in April 1799 for herself & Bonaparte, at that time away fighting Egyptian Campaign; was run-down estate encompassing nearly 150 acres of meadows & woods; upon his return, Bonaparte expressed fury at expense; ultimately, however, Malmaison would bring great happiness to Bonapartes; notable for having most beautiful & curious garden in Europe; in 1800, built heated orangery large enough for 300 pineapple plants, 5 years later, built greenhouse heated by 12 coal-burning stoves; from 1803 until her death (1814), Josephine cultivated nearly 200 new plants in France for 1st time; achieved enduring fame for rose garden; Malmaison restored in early 20th century.

Basilica of St Denis – 1 Place de la Légion d’Honneur; 011-33-01-4809-8354;; site originated as Gallo-Roman cemetery; around 475 St. Genevieve purchased some land here and built church; in 7th Century, church replaced by much grander construction, on Dagobert I’s orders; in 12th Century Abbot Suger rebuilt portions using innovative decorative and structural features drawn from numerous other sources; in doing so, created 1st truly Gothic building; 13th Century nave is also Rayonnant Gothic style prototype; St, Denis is France’s patron saint and Paris’ 1st Bishop; decapitated on Montmartre Hill and subsequently carried his own head to current church site, indicating where he wanted to be buried; martyrium erected on his grave; all but 3 French kings buried in basilica, as well as few other monarchs; remains of earlier monarchs removed from destroyed St. Genevieve Abbey.

Manufacture Nationale de Sevres – 2 Place de la Manufacture; 011-33-01-4629-2200;; famed porcelain company’s archives and factory (founded in 1740).

Chateau de Versailles – 1 Rue Robert de Cotte; 011-33-01-3083-7800;; make time to visit Hameau de la Reine.


  1. I would love to live in Paris. Or even just visit. I love the character that a lot of the apartments in Paris have. I watch travel shows of Paris all the time. I hope I get to get over there soon.
    Alena |