Saturday, July 16, 2011


(does not include Bologna, Dolomites, Parma, Trieste & Venice)
(includes Abano Terme, Asolo, Busetto, Capriva del Friuli, Cervignano dei Friuli, Cormons, Dolegna del Collio, Gorizia, Modena, Oslavia, Padua, Redipuglia, Rimini, Rivarotta di Pasiano, Treviso, Verona, Vicenza & Zibello)

Abano Grand Hotel – 1 Via Valerio Flacco; 011-39-49-824-8100;; Louis XV-style rooms and suites; bright and spacious bathrooms in pink-green marble; huge gardens of olive trees, palms, and tropical plants; 3 thermal swimming-pools; bar and restaurant.

Caffe Meletti – 2 Piazza del Popolo; 011-39-07-3625-5559;; in art nouveau building Marco Massimi designed between 1882-84 to house Post & Telegraph Palace; 1st opened in 1905 by Silvio Meletti; among illustrious patrons are Mario Del Monaco, Ernest Hemingway, Jean Paul Sartre & Simone de Beauvoir.
Sights & Sites
Chiesa di San Francesco – Piazza del Popolo (at Via del Trivio); 011-39-07-3625-9446; considered among most interesting examples of Italian Franciscan architecture in Marche region; forms monumental complex center (which, also includes 2 annexed cloisters: Chiostro Maggiore & Cloister Minor); founded to commemorate St. Francis’ visit to Ascoli Piceno in 1215; emotional wave generated by Saint Francis of Assisi’s preaching shook many ascolani lives, including those of 30 young men who wore his habit & became followers, giving birth to 1st Franciscan community of Ascoli.
Palazzo dei Capitani – Piazza del Popolo; 011-39-07-3624-4975;

Hotel Villa Cipriani – 298 Via Canova; 011-39-42-352-3411;; 16th Century Palladian property once owned by Robert Browning; set in hillside garden and pomegranate trees.

Salsamenteria Storica Baratta – 76 Via Roma; 011-39-05-249-1066;; once frequented by Verdi; specializes in local cuisine.

Castello di Spessa – 1 Via Spessa; 011-39-04-8180-8124;; 13th Century, grand castle; rambling grounds with 18-hole golf course.
Castello di Spessa – 1 Via Spessa; 011-39-04-8180-8124;; excellent restaurant.

Sights & Sites
Acquario di Cattolica – 1/a Piazza delle Nazioni; 011-39-05-418-371;

Castello di Strassoldo di Sopra – 21 Via dei Castelli; 011-39-04-319-3217;; 4 bedrooms and 2 suites; spacious bedrooms are situated in old rice mill (original wheel and grain grinders still can be seen); lavishly decorated with antique furniture and period artworks; “Radetsky” and “Michael” suites located in Tower, complex’ oldest part; “Vicinia” located next to castle’s main body; building that once served as castle’s courtrooms and administrative headquarters converted in charming, 2 floor apartment, complete with romantic portico opening onto gardens; historic park, traversed by spring water streams and river, offers trees, Chinese rose bushes, and exotic plants.

Edi Keber Winery – 17 Localita Zegla; 011-39-04-816-1184; winery that rents reasonable rooms, as well as Vespas; also open for tasting by reservation.
La Subida – 22 Monte; 011-39-04-816-0531;; near Slovenian border; homey, idyllic, and simple.
Agriturismo Seculin – 2 Localita Monticello; 011-39-33-4345-5285;
Enoteca di Cormons – Piazza XXIV Maggio 21; 011-39-04-8163-0371;; lovely place to while away time and make friends.
Al Giardinetto – 54 Via Giacomo Matteotti; 011-39-04-816-0257; beloved by locals.
La Subida – 22 Monte; 011-39-04-816-0531;; near Slovenian border; homey, idyllic, and simple.
D’Osvaldo – 40 Via Dante; 011-39-04-816-6144;; local artisanal meat producer; call ahead to arrange tour and tasting.
Sights & Sites
Edi Keber Winery – 17 Localita Zegla; 011-39-04-816-1184; winery; crisp, white wine called Collio, for region.
Magnas – 47 Via Corona; 011-39-04-816-0991;; winery.
Dario Raccaro – 87 Via San Giovanni; 011-39-04-816-1425; small winery with big reputation.

Sights & Sites
Venica & Venica – 8 Localita Cero; 011-39-04-816-1264;; winery.

Sights & Sites
Frassassi Caves – Ancona; 011-39-07-329-7211;; remarkable karst caves.

Alla Luna – 13 Via Guglielmo Oberdan; 011-39-04-8153-0374; very highly regarded; good for families, as well as romantic evenings; local color.

Espace Henri Chenot, Palace Merano – 2 Via Cavour; 011-39-47-327-1000;; spa in restored Belle Epoque "palace."

MODENA (includes Nonantola)
Bars & Nightclubs
Caffe Concerto – 26 Piazza Grande; 011-39-59-222-232;; outdoor tables.
Jutacafe – 91 Via Taglio (off Piazza della Pomposa); 011-39-59-219-449; laid-back bar that serves mean mojitos.
Albergo Ristorante Ca’ Cerfogli – 6/8 Via Montegrappa; 011-39-536-65052;; comfortable, simple accommodations upstairs.
Hotel Castello – 321 Via Pica; 011-39-59-361-033;; peaceful pastoral grounds and well-tended gardens; 5-minute drive from city center; 38 rooms spread between historic manor and newer annex.
Hotel Cervetta 5 – 5 Via Cervetta; 011-39-59-238-447;; pleasant, 22-room hotel with unbeatable location (1 block off Piazza Grande); air conditioning and breakfast included.
Albergo Ristorante Ca’ Cerfogli – 6/8 Via Montegrappa; 011-39-536-65052;; mushroom-based specialities.
Bar Schiavoni – 13 Via Luigi Albinelli (at Mercato Albinelli); 011-39-59-243-073; tiny spot tucked in corner; cheap lunch focaccia squares stuffed with tuna, figs, herbs, and red onions (for example).
Franceschetta58 – 58 Via Vignolese; 011-39-59-309-1008;; owned by same chef as Osteria Francescana; low budget version; just as good.
Hosteria Giusti – 75 Via Farini; 011-39-59-222-533;; in old Modena; only 4 tables in back of this 400 year-old salumeria; serves cured meat-based meals, as well as regional classics, such as zampone (sausage-stuffed pig trotters); hardest reservation in town.
Osteria Francescana – 22 Via Stella; 011-39-59-210-118;; innovative and traditional items on menu; 3 Michelin stars.
Osteria di Rubbiara – 4 Via Risaia (Nonantola); 011-39-59-548-096;; restaurant owned by vinegar producers; run by same family since 1862; eat on veranda; country fare.
Osteria Stallo del Pomodoro – 63 Largo Hannover; 011-39-59-214-664;; casual restaurant in former horse stables; creative menu; try to get table on atmospheric outdoor patio.
Acetaia di Giorgio – 67 Via Sandro Cabassi; 011-39-59-333-015;; balsamic vinegar manufacturer; tour includes fermentation process and tasting.
Liviana Conti – 28 Corso Duomo (Piazza Grande); 011-39-59-221-434;; small boutique; clothing.
Mercato Albinelli – 13 Via Luigi Albinelli; 011-39-59-211-218;; grocery since 1931; excellent resource.
Federica Moretti Handmade – 24 Via Selmi; 011-39-59-212-046;; hat shop.
Sights & Sites
Modena Cathedral – Corso Duomo (on Piazza Grande); 011-39-59-216-078;; magnificent 12th Century work by 2 great artists, Lanfranco and Wiligelmus; supreme early Romanesque art example, with piazza and soaring tower; Canossa dynasty commissioned it.
Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari – 85 Via Paolo Ferrari; 011-39-59-439-7979;; museum deifying Ferrari founder, Enzo Ferrari; in house where he was born; dazzling new structure attached with curving, canary-yellow roof resembling race-car roof.
Piazza Grande – city center; UNESCO-certified cultural treasure.
Piazza della Pomposa – vital area packed with bars and cafes; place to go on warm weekend nights.
San Cataldo Cemetery – Via San Cataldo; 011-39-59-334-103;; Aldo Rossi designed cubical orange edifice that stands there in stark contrast to grassy fields and long industrial-looking mausoleums; place for quiet contemplation.

Palazzo Viviani – 38 Via Roma; 011-39-54-185-5350;; period residence in Emilia Romagna hills; medieval hamlet with modern hotel comfort; magnificent fireplace and exquisite antique furnishings in lobby; 8 suites located on 1st floor, 7 bedrooms in Casa del Pittore (garden), and 8 studio apartments, furnished in traditional rustic country style within city walls; pool; 2 restaurants (Ristoro); beaches just few kilometers away.

Sights & Sites
Gravner – 9 Localita Lenzuolo Bianco; 011-39-04-813-0882;; winery; ferments in amphorae.
Oslavia Military Shrine – Via Ossario; 011-39-04-8153-1788.

PADUA (Asolo, Possagno & Rubano)
Albergo al Sole – 33 Via Collegio; 011-39-042-395-1332;; enormous rooms, fantastic staff, beautiful setting, on Asolo’s highest point (other than ruined fortress); spectacular views; excellent breakfast that can be taken on veranda.
Hotel Villa Cipriani – 298 Via Canova (Asolo); 011-39-042-352-3411;; beautifully gardened; once home to Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning, hotel offers tranquil yet sophisticated backdrop for relaxing stay; renowed restaurant; enchanting views and cool, polished stone corridors; divided into 2 buildings; wonderful garden whose center is sink shadowed by pomegranate trees.
Hotel Terme Millepini – 42 Via Cataio (Montegrotto Terme); 011-39-049-891-1766;; set among 3 hectares of gardens, modern spa hotel; subdued rooms feature free Wi-Fi, TVs & minibars, plus desks & private balconies; upgraded rooms add tea & coffeemaking facilities, as well as pool views; relaxed restaurant & coffee/cocktail bar, as well as 3 pools (both indoor & outdoor); guided walks.
Ca’ Derton – 11 Piazza D’Annunzio (Asolo); 011-39-042-352-9648; classic renditions of traditional recipes like bigoli (thick spaghetti) in duck sauce and/or baccala (salt cod) alla vicentina.
La Calandre – Via Liguria, Localita Sarmeola (Rubano); 011-39-049-630-303;; 1 of Italy’s 6 Michelin 3 star restaurants; sort of El Bulli-style Italian food.
Sights & Sites
Museo Canova – 74 Via Canova (Possagno); 011-39-042-354-4323;; works by sculptor Antonio Canova.
Orto Botanico (Botanical Garden) – 15 Via Orto Botanico; 011-39-049-827-2119;; founded in 1545 by Venetian Republic; world’s oldest academic botanical garden still in original location; affiliated with University of Padua; covers roughly 22K square meters; known for special collections & historical design.
Scrovegni Chapel – 8 Piazza Eremitani (Padua); 011-39-049-201-0020;; must make reservation to visit; Giotto’s frescoes of Jesus’ and Mary’s lives; if you want to view for more than 15 minutes, ask to book double time slot.
Villa Barbarigo – 2 Via Diana (Valsanzibio); 011-39-340-082-5844;; 17th Century rural villa, located on over 40 acres; remarkable Baroque garden, with statuary (including statue of aged & winged time carrying cuboctahedron), water works, architecture & even boxwood labyrinth.
Y-40 Deep Joy Pool – 42 Via Cataio (Montegrotto Terme, at Hotel Terme Millepini); 011-39-049-891-0416;; world’s deepest pool.

Sights & Sites
Basilica of San Vitale – Via Fiandrini Benedetto; 011-39-54-421-5193;; among early Christian Byzantine architecture’s and art’s most important examples in western Europe; styled “ecclesiastical basilica” by Roman Catholic Church, though not of architectural basilica form; 1 of 8 Ravenna structures on UNESCO World Heritage List; construction begun by Bishop Ecclesius in 527 (sponsored by Greek banker Julius Argentarius, who also sponsored Classe Basilica of Sant’ Apollinare around same time (final cost was 26K solidi (gold pieces))), when Ravenna under Ostrogoth rule and completed in 546 during Ravenna’s Byzantine Exarchate; octagonal plan; most famous for its Byzantine mosaics (best preserved and largest outside of Constantinople); only major church from Emperor Justinian I time period to survive virtually intact to present day.

Sights & Sites
WWI War Memorial – Via Terza Armata; 011-39-04-8148-9024; Redipuglia saw over 100K casualties and largest WWI memorial chapel in Europe.

RIMINI (includes Riccione)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Gelateria Pellicano – 10 Via Mentana (4 other locations); 011-39-05-412-1468;; seriously good ice cream; try pinoli (pine nut), with toasted whole nuts on top.
Bars & Nightclubs
Nomi – 28 Via Giordano Bruno; 011-39-05-412-4215/6;; Duomo Hotel bar.
Duomo Hotel – 28 Via Giordano Bruno; 011-39-05-412-4215/6;; ring-shaped steel reception desk, chrome pillars, bronze ceilings; 43 rooms; free beach access and bikes; cool bar, Nomi; May is best time to go; high floors provide distance from bar’s sound; ask for room with balcony (can view pier where motorcyclist Scureza raced up & down in Amarcord; also, can ask for Fellini’s suite, accurately reconstructed in 1993.
Hotel Card – 50 Via Dante Alighieri; 011-39-05-412-6412;; just around corner from Fellini’s childhood home on Via Clementini; small but stylish.
Brodo di Giuggiole – 11 Via Soardi; 011-39-05-412-6778;; tucked down alley off Piazza Tre Martiri; intimate spot great for elegant night out; wood-panelled dining room, lanternlit plank terrace & ever-changing menu featuring some of freshest, best-prepared fish in town; reservations recommended, especially on live-jazz Tuesdays.
Osteria de Borg – 12 Via Forzieri (San Giuliano); 011-39-05-415-6074;; in movie-set-cute neighborhood; great for chops, pizza & steaks.
Picnic – 30 Via Templo Malatestiano; 011-39-05-412-1916;; family-owned restaurant in historic city center; outstanding Adriatic seafood pasta dishes; open over 50 years.
Ristorante Pier & Gilberto Europe – 51 Viale Roma (Centro Storico); 011-39-05-412-8761;; on noisy road; inside is silver candlesticks, cascading bouquets & good food; seafood (spaghetti ai frusta di mare).
Ristorante Teatini – 3 Piazzetta Teatini; 011-39-05-412-8008;; creative, modern cuisine based on local, seasonal ingredients; also, excellent wine list; try Famoso, floral, regional white wine; also good, squid-ink passatelli (like local version spaetzle).
Sights & Sites
Arco d’Augusto – Corso d’Augusto (at Via XX Settembre);; oldest preserved arch in northern Italy; marks path traced by Consul Flaminius in 220 BCE to connect Rome to Rimini; built in 27 BCE to celebrate Octavian Augustus.
Biblioteca Civica Gambalunga – 27 Via Gambalunga; 011-39-05-4170-4486;; in 1600s CE building that once served as elementary school, similar to one Fellini would have attended (as depicted in Amarcord); lovely brick courtyard.
Borgo San Giuliano – on Marecchia River’s north side (separated from city’s historic center by Tiberius Bridge, take Via Marecchia); old neighborhood of fishermen’s houses, restored and often painted with murals, some of which even depict scenes from Fellini movies like La Strada; pedestrian area; worth visiting are church dedicated to Saint Giuliano (see below).
Chiesa San Giuliano Martire – 57 Viale Tiberio; 011-39-05-415-5177;; erected on pagan temple foundations; notable for Paolo Veronese’s Martyrdom of Saint Giuliano on main altar; underneath is marble Roman sarcophagus containing relics.
Cimitero Monumentale di Rimini – 1 Piazzale Bartolani (to left of main gate); 011-39-05-4174-2766;; where Fellini buried.
Corso d’Augusto – city’s main shopping avenue; one of Fellini’s childhood homes here; also, corner ship where he began career, as caricaturist; make sure to see Arco d’Augusto (see above).
Domus del Chirurgo (Surgeon’s House) – Piazza Ferrari; 011-39-05-412-1482;; 2nd Century CE Roman, discovered in 1989; assumed that doctor’s name was Eutyches based on wall inscription; numerous mosaics.
Fulgor Cinema – 162 Corso d’Augusto (Borgo San Giuliano); where Fellini saw his 1st movies & exchanged movie star caricatures for tickets; being converted into museum; once owned by noble brothers Demofonte Aurelio and Walloons; after 1787 earthquake, rebuilt in facade designed by architect Giuseppe Valadier; in 1920, acquired by Fulgor Addo Cupi; expected to soon house Museo Fellini (see below).
Museo della Città – 1 Via Tonini; 011-39-05-412-1482;; paintings upstairs include haunting Pietà (Giovanni Bellini) & altarpiece (Domenico Ghirlandaio); museum’s centrepiece is ground floor archaeological section, which includes finds from 2 nearby Roman villas, including mosaics, exquisite and rare fish representation (rendered in colored glass) & world’s largest Roman surgical instrument collection (can walk through life-size surgeon’s office reproduction.
Museo Fellini – 6 Via Nigra; 011-39-05-415-0085;; Fellini memorabilia.
Piazza Cavour – city center; fountain is model for scene in Amarcord, when Ciccio, Titta & friends have snowball fight; city’s finest palazzi here; on north side, Palazzo del Municipio, built in 1562 and reconstructed after being razed during WWII.
Piazza Tre Martiri – city’s main square; tiny chapel off square recalls one where farm animals blessed in Amarcord.
Piazetta Teatini – Fellini’s favorite square (would slip out of Rome at night and take train down, spending evening with childhood friends drinking on this square); now overgrown and overlooked.
Tempio Malatestiano – 35 Via Quattro Novembre; 011-39-05-151-130;; glowing white basilica-cathedral named for region’s medieval lords; Rimini’s grandest monument; dedicated to St. Francis; transformed in 15th Century CE to house Isotta degli Atti’s (Sigismondo Malatesta’s beloved mistress) tomb.
Via Clementini – 2 Via Clementini is where one of Fellini’s childhood homes stood.

Villa Luppis – 34 Via San Martino; 011-39-3462-6228;; on old monastery site (dating to 11th Century) on Livenza and Meduna River’s confluence; seriously damaged during Republic of Venice and Hapsburg House war; rebuilt in 1500; secularized by Napoleon at 1800s’ beginning; subsequently purchased by Chiozza-Luppis family and turned into country residence; surrounded by 5 hectare garden; pool; 39 rooms, each bedroom individually appointed with period furniture, antique mirrors, and precious textiles; highly acclaimed restaurant; 2 bars.

Maison Matilda – 44 Via Riccati (historic city center); 011-39-042-258-2212;; 6 stylish rooms; elegant.
Sights & Sites
San Nicolo Chiesa – Viale Cesare Battisti; 011-39-042-254-7632; frescoes by Tommaso da Modena from 1352 worth special trip.

UDINE (includes Cividale del Friuli)
Sights & Sites
Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Palazzo Pretorio) – 13 Piazza del Duomo (Cividale del Friuli); 011-39-043-270-0700;; founded at Palais de Nordis in 1817 by Count Michele della Torre Valsassina; transferred here in 1990 (Palazzo Pretorio attributed to Andrea Palladio & built between 1565-86); exhibits spread over 2 floors; on ground floor, Roman, early Byzantine, Early Medieval & Romanesque statuary and stonework; on 1st floor is Lombard collection.

VERONA (Pedemonte & San Giorgio di Valpolicella)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
La Boutique del Gelato – 13 Via Carlo Ederle; 011-39-349-431-7700;
Caffe Borsari – 15D Corso Porta Borsari; 011-39-045-803-1313;è-Borsari/429507137121555; best cappuccino in town; also teas; nearby, De Rossi bakery.
De Rossi – 3 Corso Porta Borsari; 011-39-045-800-2489; “Il Fornaio”;; since 1947, Veronese specialities like baci di Romeo & Guilietta, almond & chocolate cookie.
Gelateria Artigianale Ponte Pietra – 23 Via Ponte Pietra; 011-39-340-471-7294;; best ice cream in city.
Bars & Nightclubs
Bar al Ponte – 26 Via Ponte Pietra; 011-39-045-569-608;; beautiful setting on pedestrian-only stone bridge.
Osteria Verona – 34 Piazza delle Erbe; 011-39-045-803-0888; nice place for aperitif.
Victoria Club – 8 Via Adua (at Palazzo Victoria); 011-39-045-590-566;; weather permitting, can have drinks in courtyard; live jazz on Saturday nights; cocktails.
Byblos Art Hotel – 76 Via Cedrare; 011-39-045-685-5555;; amid Valpolicella vineyards; classic, Venetian-style villa; proprietor Dino Facchini (who also owns fashion line Byblos) has updated estate with frescoed ballroom (by Vanessa Beecroft); 60 rooms have whimsical details like harlequin patterns, fridges with painted faces, and asymmetrical mirrors; couples can wind down in Roman-style pool, detox in spa, or head to restaurant for sea bass sweetened with rose petals.
Hotel Gabbia D’Oro – 4a Corso Porta Borsari; 011-39-045-800-3060;; ask for junior suite.
Palazzo Victoria – 8 Via Adua; 011-39-045-590-566;; modern luxury meets medieval charm; 14th Century palace; 5-minute walk from opera, Arena amphitheatre & Juliet’s house; marble fittings and classical wooden furnishings, frescoes and classical paintings; Victoria Suite has private balcony and bathroom furnished with Veronese marbles and Jacuzzi.
Villa del Quar – 12 Via Quar (Pedemonte); 011-39-045-680-0681;; converted 16th Century manor with 2 Michelin star restaurant.
El Bacarin – 12 Via Rosa; 011-39-045-803-0579;; wine bar tucked into alley near Piazza delle Erbe; serves cheese and cut meat plates, along with polenta.
Dalla Rosa Alda – 4 Strada Garibaldi; 011-39-045-770-1018;; open for over century; offers local specialities; try tagliatelle enbogone (in red bean sauce) and/or beef braised in Amarone.
Locanda 4 Cuochi – 12 Via Alberto Mario; 011-39-045-803-0311;; contemporary look and innovative cuisine.
Osteria del Bugiardo – 17 Corso Porta Borsari; 011-39-045-591-869;; either for appetizers and drinks or full dinner.
Osteria al Duomo – 7 Via Duomo; 011-39-045-800-4505; in addition to traditional Veronese food, serves donkey – yes, donkey; try bigoli, thick Veronese hand-rolled pasta, served with donkey – yes, donkey – ragu.
Osteria Ponte Pietra – 34 Via Ponte Pietra; 011-39-045-804-1929;; make sure to book reservation well in advance for table with view on outside terrace; notable for risotto all’amarone.
Ristorante Arquade – 12 Via Quar (Pedemonte, at Hotel Villa del Quar); 011-39-045-680-0681;; converted 16th Century manor that is 2 Michelin star restaurant; try seared tuna and eggplant in raspberry-mint vinaigrette with cinnamon-scented burrata.
Verona Card – Piazza Bra 1 (City Hall, as well as other locations (see; 011-39-045-807-7111 or 011-39-045-807-7500;; African Museum, Arena (Piazza Bra), Basilica of San Zeno, Basilica of Sant’Anastasia, Castelvecchio Museum, Juliet’s House, Juliet’s Tomb, Maffeiano Lapidary Museum, Museo Archeologico, Museo della Radio, Museum of Frescos G.B. Cavalcaselle, Natural History Museum, Roman Theater, San Fermo Maggiore Church, Scavi Scaligeri Museum (International Center of Photography), Torre dei Lamberti (card does not include elevator), Verona Cathedral (Duomo); also, reduced price tickets to exhibitions and museums, e.g., Boggian Room at Castelvecchio Museum, Fondazione Museo: Miniscalchi Erizzo, Museum Lapidary Maffeiano, Roman Theatre.
Airport di Bonamigo Monica & C. – 6 Via San Rocchetto; 011-39-045-594-971; high-end women’s clothing.
El Bacarin – 12 Via Rosa; 011-39-045-803-0579;; gourmet products.
Enoteca San Anastasia – 3B Via Abramo Massalongo; 011-39-045-801-4448; regional wine.
Fabriano – 47 Corso Porta Borsari; 011-39-045-801-1785;; stationary, photo albums, etc.
Fazzini – 4 Corso San Anastasia; 011-39-045-800-0193;; kitchenware.
Giocare – 3 Galleria Pellicciai; 011-39-045-800-1863; children’s wear.
Icona – 14 Via Quattro Spade; 011-39-045-801-5798;; high-end women’s clothing.
Sights & Sites
African Museum – 1 Vicolo Pozzo; 011-39-045-809-2199;; founded in 1938; shows African culture and daily life.
Arena – 7/D Via Roma (Piazza Bra); 011-39-045-800-5151;; internationally famous for large-scale opera performances; among best preserved ancient structures of its kind; built in 30 on site then beyond city walls; ludi (games & shows) staged there so famous that spectators come from many other places, often far away, to witness; accommodated 30K spectators in ancient times; round façade originally composed of white and pink limestone from Valpolicella, but after major earthquake (1117), which almost completely destroyed outer ring, stone quarried for re-use in other buildings (medieval visitors thought it to have been labyrinth.
Basilica of San Zeno – 2 Piazza San Zeno; 011-39-045-800-6120;; fine example Romanesque architecture (9-12th Centuries); slightly outside old city but still easily reached on foot; dedicated to city’s patron saint; Verona’s most visited church; sober facade highlighted by immense, 12th Century rose window (Ruota della Fortuna (Wheel of Fortune)), pales in importance compared to facade below (2 pillars supported by marble lions and massive doors whose 48 bronze panels sculpted from 9-11th Centuries), believed to have been among 1st castings in bronze since Roman antiquity; massive interior filled with 12-14th Century frescoes and crowned by ceiling designed as wooden ship keel; singular highlight is famous triptych, Madonna and Child Enthroned with Saints, by Andrea Mantegna (1459), behind main altar.
Basilica of Sant’Anastasia & Cavalli Chapel – 4 Vicolo Sotto Riva; 011-39-045-800-4325;; built between 1290-1481, this is Verona’s largest church; city’s finest example Gothic architecture, even though facade unfinished; 14th Century campanile bell tower adorned with frescoes & sculptures; interior Gothic, highlighted by 2 famous gobbi (hunchbacks) that support holy-water fonts & 16 side chapels containing numerous noteworthy frescoes & paintings from 15-16th Centuries; Pisanello’s St. George Freeing Princess of Trebisonda (1433); also, 14th Century frescoes by Giotto-inspired Altichiero in Cavalli Chapel (next door).
Castelvecchio Museum – 2 Corso Castelvecchio; 011-39-045-806-2611;; in medieval castle; restoration (1959-73) has enhanced appearance & exhibits; ancient weapons, ceramics, goldworks, paintings, sculpture, statues & some old bells; paintings include: Madonna of Quail (Pisanello), Madonna of Rose Garden (Stefano da Verona or Michelino da Besozzo), Crucifixion & Madonna dell’Umiltà (Jacopo Bellini), Madonna with Child (Gentile Bellini), Madonna of Oak (Girolamo dai Libri) & Holy Family (Andrea Mantegna).
Domus Mercatorum(Casa dei Mercanti) – Piazza delle Erbe; 011-39-045-807-7626;; medieval edifice, once city’s merchants’ guild; today home to Banca Popolare di Verona.
Fondazione Museo: Miniscalchi Erizzo – 2 Via San Mamaso; 011-39-045-803-2484;; building is oldest and most linked to Verona’s folk traditions; noble, Lombard-origin, family (Miniscalchi) palace; facade (on Via San Mamaso) is Venetian Gothic style, with decorated windows, large splayed portal and fresco cycles; in 19th Century, Miniscalchi family joined with Erizzo and, together, added Gothic palace wing (neoclassical Via Garibaldi style); in 1955, family’s last descendant created foundation; art has accumulated over centuries: armor, bronzes, ceramics, drawings, furniture, furnishings, pottery & prints, together with huge amount documents yet to be cataloged.
Juliet’s House – 23 Via Cappello (just off Via Giuseppe Mazzini, central Verona’s main shopping street); 011-39-045-803-4303;; romantics flock to this 14th Century house to add their lovelorn pleas to graffiti on courtyard causeway & rub bronze Juliet statue’s right breast.
Giardino Giusti & Giusti Palace – 2 Via Giardino Giusti; 011-39-045-803-4029;; lush sculpted garden named after noble family that has looked after it and mansion since opening the garden to visitors in 1591; Italianate mix of natural & sculpted, graced by soaring cypresses, one of which Goethe immortalized in his travel writings; little labyrinth to garden’s right; on far end, sweeping city views.
Juliet’s Tomb – 35 Via del Pontiere; 011-39-045-800-0361;; located in Abbey of San Francesco vaults; after Shakespeare wrote play, sarcophagus placed in monastery courtyard; sarcophagus lid & remains subsequently relocated to secret location by Venetian government because didn’t want suicide to have too much public attention; Marie-Louise of Austria, Napoleon’s wife, came here &, after visit had jewelery made from sarcophagus fragments; for Hollywood film in 1937, sarcophagus taken into convent vaults for filming death scene, where remains today.
Maffeiano Lapidary Museum – 28 Piazza Bra; 011-39-045-590-087;; built in 1745; experience ancient Roman culture and society just by walking through.
Museo Archeologico – 2 Via Regaste Redentore (over Ponte Pietra bridge, behind Duomo, on Adige River’s north banks); 011-39-045-800-0360;; small archaeological museum (same hours as the site itself) housed in a lovely old monastery; collection includes mosaic floor fragments, Etruscan bronzes, and Roman statues.
Museo della Radio – 40 Via del Pontiere; 011-39-045-595-855;; Alberto Chiàntera’s private collection; brief tour through world of radio, from telegraph and earliest telegraph transmitters, with their bulky Ruhmkorff coils, through receiver revolution, through WWII and transistors.
Museum of Frescoes G.B. Cavalcaselle – 35 Via del Pontiere; 011-39-045-800-0361;; dedicated to art historian G.B. Cavalcaselle; houses fresco cycles from Veronese buildings’ facade, dating from Medieval times through 16th Century, when Verona was called Urbs Picta (“painted town”), as well as 19th Century sculpture.
Natural History Museum – 9 Lungadige Potra Vittoria (in Pompei Palace); 011-39-045-807-9400;; founded in 1853 to house various naturalist collections (Veronese animals, fossils, minerals & plants) collected by various citizens since 1500; also, archeological findings from various neolithic & paleolithic Verona sites; in particular, worth seeing is room dedicated to Bolca fossils, area in Veronese mountains famous for marine fossils considered; among world’s most beautiful and best preserved.
Roman Theater – 2 Via Regaste Redentore (over Ponte Pietra bridge, behind Duomo, on Adige River’s north banks); 011-39-045-800-0360;; oldest extant Roman monument in Verona; dates from Augustus.
San Fermo Maggiore Church – 2 Via Dogana; 011-39-045-806-8680;; church at this site traced to 8th Century; by 11th Century 2nd story & belltower added by Benedictine order; campanile completed in 13th Century (contains 6 bells in F cast in 1755; St. Francis altarpiece by Belloti.
San Giorgio in Braida – 6 Porta San Giorgio (Veronetta); 011-39-045-834-0232;; built in 16th Century alongside 12th Century bell tower & 11th Century monastery; St. George & St. Lorenzo Giustiniani statues outside; interior has single nave & contains key artworks, including Tintoretto painting depicting Christ baptism & Paolo Veronese masterpiece, Martyrdom of St. George.
Santa Maria in Organo – Via dell’Aqua Morta (Veronetta); 011-39-045-591-440;; dates to 6-8th Centuries, under Ostrogoth and Lombard dominations; original convent destroyed in Napoleonic times; church rebuilt after earthquake in 1117; monk Giovanni da Verona executed wooden choir tarsias & designed bell tower, finished in 1533; in 1534, 5 bells cast in F scale (1st peal in Italy); important paintings, with works by Girolamo Savoldo, Domenico Morone, Francesco Morone, Antonio Balestra & Guercino; also, popular Muletta, wooden 14th Century statue depicting Jesus entering Jerusalem riding a mule.
Scavi Scaligeri Museum (International Center of Photography) – Cortile del Tribunale; 011-39-045-800-7490;; Roman and early medieval remains displayed in underground museum; Roman stone roads with sewers and mosaics floors; Lombard tomb and medieval tower foundation; also, regular International Photography Center exhibitions.
Torre dei Lamberti – 1 Via della Costa; 011-39-045-927-3027;; 84 m high tower; begun in 1172; in May 1403 lightning bolt struck, but only in 1448 restoration started, lasting until 1464; large clock added in 1779; tower has 4 bells: Marangona signals fires, work times, and hour, while largest, Rengo, used to call population to arms or council.
Verona Cathedral (Duomo) – 21 Piazza Duomo; 011-39-045-592-813;; erected after 2 Palaeo-Christian churches on same site destroyed by 1117 earthquake; in Romanesque style.
Via Mazzini – follow into Piazza delle Erbe; pedestrian-only street with great cafes and shopping.

VICENZA (Arcugnano, Asiago, Bassano del Grappa, Finale, Lusiana, Maser, Mira, Pederobba, Pieve del Grappa, Piombino Dese, & Vedelago)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Tutto Gelato – 26 Contrà Frasche Del Gambero (Vicenza); 011-39-044-454-5378; gelateria artigiana hidden in small back street; highly rated by locals.
Due Mori – 24 Contrà Do Rode (Vicenza); 011-39-044-432-1886; or; 2 star hotel with 53 rooms; fabulous roof terrace & city views; air conditioning; excellent choice.
Hotel Palladio – 25 Contrà Oratorio dei Servi (Vicenza); 011-39-044-432-5347;; chic, 22-room base in narrow back street, close to Piazza dei Signori.
Relais Santa Corona – 19 Contrà Santa Corona (Vicenza); 011-39-044-432-4678;; stylish newcomer, with 6 minimalist rooms in quiet area.
Villa Michelangelo – 35 Via Sacco (Arcugnano); 011-39-044-455-0300;; once convent, has cloister-like feel but recently redone.
Villa Valmarana ai Nani – Rivera Berica Via dei Nani (Vicenza, 2 kms from historic center, in SS 247 direction); 011-39-044-432-1803;; historic villa built in 1757 and decoarated with Tiepolo frescoes that leases weekly 2 stylish apartments, one is 1-bedroom and one is 3-bedroom.
Villa Saraceno – 40 minutes south of Vicenza (near Finale); 011-044-162-882-5925;; only Palladian villa available for rental ($530 per night, 3-night minimum).
Al Pestello - Bottega Storica 1910 – 3 San Stefano (Vicenza); 011-39-044-432-3721;; menu written in local Veneto dialect (waiters will translate).
Opera – 8 Piazza Matteotti (Vicenza, next to Teatro Olimpico); 011-39-044-432-7501; serves reasonably priced salads (from 7 euros) & variety of sandwiches on shaded sun terrace.
Trattoria la Moreleta – 35 Via Soghen (Arcugnano); 011-39-044-427-3311;; harrowing drive through Berici Hills but worth it; refined rustic food.
Trattoria Zamboni – 73 Via Santa Croce (Arcugnano); 011-39-044-427-3079;; refined rustic food;; harrowing drive through Berici Hills but worth it; refined rustic food.
Biglietto Unico – Vicenza;; covers all Vicenza's museums, including Teatro Olimpico & Palazzo Chiericati, for 8 euros.
Tourist Center – 8 Piazza dei Signori or 12 Piazza Matteotti (Vicenza); rents mp3 player for 3 euros to guide walking tour; alternatively, pick up leaflet called “Palladian Routes," which picks way alongside streets leading off Corso Palladio (wide shopping artery), past basilica & loggia of Piazza dei Signori (main square) & finishes by city gates in west.
Sights & Sites
Bassano del Grappa – birthplace of Jacopo Bassano, 50-minute train journey from Vicenza; small town museum built into cloisters dedicates room to artist.
Granezza British Cemetery – 9 kilometres south of Asiago (Lusiana);; 1 of 5 cemeteries situated on Asiago Plateau; ; from Asiago take SP 72 towards Bassano, following signs to hospital, 0.7 kms after hospital take right turn, signposted to Barenthal, Granezza & Cavalletto cemeteries; after 300 metres, take 1st left turn then aight turn after 100 metres; Barenthal Military Cemetery on left, after distance of 1.8 kms; continue further 700 metres & take left fork in road; after 2.5 kms, sign for Granezza British Cemetery, which is on left, accessed by short, narrow footpath.
Monte Berico – climb steps from Viale Margherita (Vicenza).
Monte Grappa Shrine(Sacrario di Cima Grappa) – 101 Via Madonna Del Volo (Pieve del Grappa); 011-39-042-354-4840;; hour outside Vicenza; largest Italian WWI military ossuary; located on Monte Grappa summit (between provinces of Treviso & Vicenza; 1,776 meters above sea level; contains remains of 12,615 soldiers, mostly unknown; consists of 5 concentric circles, connected by wide central staircase to 5 ramps; at top stands Madonna del Grappa chapel; in addition to soldier remains, remains of Italian Marshal Gaetano Giardino.
Palazzo Chiericati – 37/39 Piazza Matteotti (Vicenza); 011-39-044-432-0854; art gallery, housed in Palladian masterpiece, which has works by Jacopo Bassano & sons Francesco and Leandro; best-known paintings here are Rectors of Vicenza & Adoration of the Child.
Sacrario Francese di Pederobba – SR 348 (Pederobba); contains remains of 1,000 French soldiers belonging to 37th division, which fiercely fought in Italy & sthat on 30 December 1917 re-conquered Monte Tomba; shrine remembers military brotherhood between Italy & sFrance; wanted by Marshal Petain, inaugurated at same time of Italian one in Bligny, esting place of 3,453 italian soldiers fallen in France.
Teatro Olimpico – 11 Piazza Matteotti, 11 (Vicenza); 011-39-044-432-0854;; designed by Palladio in 1580; said to be oldest covered theatre in existence; extraordinary interior: elliptical in shape, tstatues, seating & trompe l'oeil stage backdrop remain unchanged from 16th Century.
Tempio Ossario (Sacrario Militare)) – Piazza Luigi Cadorna (Bassano del Grappa); 011-39-042-452-4351;; church attractive from outside but stark & sombre inside; so it should be as 5500 WWI soldiers buried here; most part of famous “99 boys,” young people called to front to replace numerous losses (nearly 300,000 soldiers, including dead, deserters, missing & wounded) due to defeat at Caporetto (October-November 1917); names cover walls; exhibition on horrors of war.
Vicenza Cathedral – Piazzetta Duomo (Vicenza); 011-39-044-432-5007;; started in 1482, but only finished 80 years later with addition of dome in 1566, designed by Palladio.
Villa Almerico-Capra (La Rotunda) – 45 Via della Rotunda (outside Vicenza); 011-39-044-432-1793; best to seek appointment because not always open; Renaissance villa designed by Andrea Palladio; considered his greatest masterpiece, with sloping lawns & panoramic views encircle this Pantheon-inspired, temple-like structure; part of World Heritage Site “City of Vicenza & Palladian Villas of Veneto.”
Villa Cornaro – 104 Via Roma (Piombino Dese); 011-39-049-936-5017; Palladino “must see” villa; significant for double-height portico.
Villa Emo – 5 Via Stazione (Vedelago); 011-39-042-347-6334;; Palladino “must see” villa; farming estate incorporating barchesse (arcaded, long, low wings); Giovanni Battista Zelotti frescoes.
Villa Foscari la Malcontenta – 9 Via dei Turisti (Mira); 011-39-041-547-0012;; Palladino “must see” villa; only 20 minutes from Venice airport; still used by Foscari family.
Villa di Maser (Villa Barbaro) – 7 Via Cornuda (Maser); 011-39-042-392-3003;; Palladino “must see” villa; commissioned by polymath Barbaro brothers; among more decorated villas, with Paolo Veronese frescoes and extensive plasterwork and statues.
Villa Valmarana ai Nani – Rivera Berica Via dei Nani (Vicenza, 2 kms from historic center, in SS 247 direction); 011-39-044-432-1803;; historic 17th Century villa so called because of nani (dwarves) lining garden wall; delicate & colourful frescoes are result of rare collaboration between artist Giambattista Tiepolo & son Giandomenico in 1757, depicting scenes from Iliad & Aeneid, among other sources.

Trattoria La Buca – 6 Via Ghizzi; 011-39-0524-99214;; in culatello region; 5th-generation-run establishment; worth trip; authentic food with local ingredients served in cozy dining rooms or under shady pergola.

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