Wednesday, July 13, 2011


Aer – 114 Dr. E. Moses Road (at Four Seasons Mumbai); 011-91-22-2481-8000;; roof-top bar; vibe: Miami.
Blue Frog – D/2 Mathuradas Mills Compound, N.M. Joshi Marg; 011-91-22-4033-2300;; bar, live-music, and restaurant venue; futuristic, LED-lit banquettes, overhead video projections.
Dome – 135 Marine Drive (at Intercontinental Hotel); 011-91-22-6639-9999;; dome on roof with outdoor tables; sea views and extensive drink menu.
Gadda da Vida – Juhu Beach, Balraj Sahani Marg (Novotel); 011-91-22-6693-4444;; casual, poolside bar good for happy hour.
Hype – Shop Number 6, Basera, Lokhandwala Complex, Andheri West; 011-91-22-2481-3799;; off-putting mall location does not detract from fact that this is among city’s hottest nightclubs.
Marimba – Dream Square, C 18/21 (Dalia Estate, off Veera Desai Road); 011-91-22-2673-3333; 7K sq ft space, featuring live bands from around world.
Poison – 206 Patkar Marg; 011-91-22-2642-3006;; pulses with Bollywood celebs.
Prive – 41-44 Mon Repos, Minoo Desai Road (on Arabian Sea shore, near Taj Mahal hotel in Colaba); 011-91-22-2202-8700; exclusive door policy but concierges at fine hotels can arrange entry.
Shiro – Bombay Dyeing Mill Compound, Pandurang Budhkar Marg; 011-91-22-6615-5980; huge Buddha Bar; lax door policy.
Tote on Turf – Race Course, Keshva Rao Khadye Marg, Mahalaxmi (opposite Gates 5 & 6); 011-91-22-6157-7777;; chic and social brunch, as well as popular bar.
212 Bar & Grill – 12-A Hornby Vellard Estate, Worli (opposite Nehru Centre, next to BMW showroom); 011-91-22-2490-1994.
Vie Deck & Lounge – 102 Juhu Tara Road; 011-91-22-2660-4884;; best for sunset drink.

Chowpatty Beach – near semi-preserved, colonial-ear district (Khotachiwadi).

Four Seasons Mumbai – 114 Dr. E. Moses Road; 011-91-22-2481-8000 or 800-819-5053;; 33-story, 202-room hotel; stylish but subdued.
Grand Hyatt Mumbai – Western Express Highway; 011-91-22-6676-1234;; very grand, in Mumbai’s answer to Malibu.
ITC Grand Central – Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar Road (Parel); 011-91-22-2410-1010;
ITC Maratha – Sahar Airport Road (Andheri (east), near International Airport); 011-91-22-2830-3030;
JW Marriott Hotel Mumbai – Juhu Tara Road; 011-91-22-6693-3000;; glamorous.
Sun & Sand – 39 Juhu Beach; 011-91-22-6693-8888;; original Bollywood haunt; retro cool; best baked crab in Mumbai.
Taj Lands End – Bandstand; 011-91-22-6668-1234;; 18 stories and 368 rooms, some of city’s largest; city’s best hotel; excellent restaurant, Pure.
Taj Mahal Palace & Tower – 1 Apollo Bunder; 011-91-22-6665-3366;; 1903 neoclassic landmark; cross between maharaja’s palace and Edwardian grand hotel; opulent; onyx columns and handwoven silk carpets; cantilevered lobby staircase; Arabian Sea-facing rooms; avoid rooms in tower wing; ask for Taj Club Sea View room in old palace building.

Anant Ashram – 46 Khotachi Wadi (Girgaum); must-visit, seafood experience; no telephone; mom and pop place on village lane; dozen tables; when food runs out, it’s over.
Aurus – Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road; 011-91-22-6710-6666; diners sit on lounge chairs on candle-lit deck.
Blue Frog – D/2 Mathuradas Mills Compound, N.M. Joshi Marg; 011-91-22-4033-2300;; bar, live-music, and restaurant venue; futuristic, LED-lit banquettes, overhead video projections.
Britannia & Co. Restaurant – 11 Sprott Road; 011-91-22-2261-5264; 1923 relic; meat dishes in spicy sauces characteristic of 11th Century Persian migrants known as Parsis; large and airy; open only for lunch; 1 restaurant in Mumbai that makes Berry Pulao (chicken, mutton, or vegetables in thick gravy, topped with flavored rice and garnished with browned onions and rubylike “barberries.”
Crepe Station Café – 8-9 Ganganiri Society (in Union Park); 011-91-22-2648-5482;; decent crepes.
Fresh Catch – off LJ Road (Kotnis Marg); 011-91-22-2444-8942; air-conditioned; try fried bombil with cilantro, mint,and yoghurt or crab with butter, garlic, and pepper; soak it up with neer dosa (rice pancake).
Gomantak Boarding House – 301 Miranda Chaal, N.C. Kelkar Road; 011-91-22-2431-1377; Hindu Goan food (cockles in thick sauce, fried kingfish, prawns in coconut curry); dimly lit and packed.
Good Earth – Raghuvanshi Mansion, Raghuvanshi Mills Compound, Lower Parel; 011-91-22-2495-1954;; socialite Anita Lal’s 20K square foot complex is both housewares store, café by day, and restaurant by night.
Highway Gomantak – 44/2179 Gandhi Nagar (Bandra East); 011-91-22-2640-9692;; Goan specialties; been around 2 decades; no air-conditioning, English, or napkins; try spicy stuffed pomfret with Limca soda or mori (baby shark).
Indigo – 4 Mandlik Road; 011-91-22-6636-8999;; chic, Indian-accented Mediterranean cuisine in south Mumbai’s Colaba neighborhood; in turn-of-last-century, restored, mini-mansion; lobster risotto and kiwi margaritas.
Indigo Cafe – Clifton Trishul Co-op Housing Society (Andheri); 011-91-22-2633-6262;; casual, Western comfort food.
Indigo Deli – 5 Pheroze Building, Chatrapati Shivaji Marg; 011-91-22-6655-1010; antipasti and wines, plus comfort food like roast chicken and flatbread pizza; open for breakfast and lunch, too.
Mahesh Lunch Home – 8B, Cawasji Patel Street; 011-91-22-2287-0938;; Mangalorian seafood; try pomfret curries, prawn gassis, and/or fish roe masalas.
Mani’s Lunch Home – 384 Dadbawala Sadan (just off King’s Circle in Sion); 011-91-80-2412-7188; spartan restaurant, filled with formica tables; pure-vegetarian, South Indian cuisine; traditional Tamilian Brahmin lunch; no air-conditioning.
Olive Bar & Kitchen – 14 Union Park (in Hotel Pali Hill); 011-91-22-2605-8228;; Mediterranean food for beautiful people; outdoor> terrace seating.
Out of the Blue – 14 Union Park; 011-91-22-2605-8227;; inventive fondu and seasonal food; lunch and dinner.
Pantry – Military Square Lane (Kala Ghoda); 011-91-22-2267-8901;‎; Western-style cafe; elegant, light-filled eatery.
Prakash – 19 Balkrishna Sadan, Gokhale Road, Dadar (West); 011-91-22-2430-4921; sabudana vada (fried dumplings) are legendary; bring native speaker because no menu.
Pure – Bandstand; 011-91-22-6668-1234;; organic food.
Sadichha – B-5 Gandhi Nagar; 011-91-22-2651-0175; abundant seafood; try crab masala.
Seijo & the Soul Dish – 206 Waterfield Road; 011-91-22-2640-5555; Pan-Asian cuisine; fashionable; candle-lit rooftop seating.
Shalimar Restaurant – Shalimar Corner, Bhendi Bazaar Junction; 011-91-22-2345-6629;; moderately spicy cashew-, tomato-and/or yoghurt-based sauces in Mogul style tradition; some meat.
Soul Fry – Silver Craft, Pali Mala Road; 011-91-22-2604-6892; great Goan seafood but avoid Monday nights (karaoke).
Swati Snacks – 248 Karai Estate, Tardeo Road (opposite Bhatia Hospital); 011-91-22-6680-8405; among top ten places to eat in Mumbai; family-oriented.
Thanker Bhojanalay – 31 Dadiseth Agyari Lane; 011-91-22-2201-1232; Kalbadevi district canteen; city’s best pure-vegetarian Gujarati-style thalis (dish consisting of sweet-sour preparations accompanied by bread, rice, pickles & sweets); air-conditioning.
Tote on Turf – Race Course, Keshva Rao Khadye Marg, Mahalaxmi (opposite Gates 5 & 6); 011-91-22-6157-7777;; chic and social brunch, as well as popular bar.
Trishna – Sai Baba Marg (Kala Ghoda); 011-91-22-2270-3213;; among city’s best seafood restaurants; unprepossessing; 17 years in operation; big with expats; late dining; reservations.
212 Bar & Grill – 12-A Hornby Vellard Estate, Worli (opposite Nehru Centre, next to BMW showroom); 011-91-22-2490-1994; Mediterranean fusion food; serves beef.
Ubuntu – Dream Square, C 18/21 (Dalia Estate, off Veera Desai Road, attached to Marimba Lounge); 011-91-22-2673-3333; Indian, South African, and Thai food.

Jamini Ahluwalia – local celebrity and jewelry designer (daughter owns local store, Bungalow Eight); knows all local important galleries and arranges tours; try Our Personal Guest or contact directly at 011-91-98-2021-9201;
Rashida Anees – 91-98-2022-8225;; top personal shopper and tour leader; also can book through either Taj or Oberoi hotels in Mumbai; use her services at markets described below.
Beyond Bombay Tours – beyondbombay@gmail; visit various Bollywood hangouts and screenings at 1 of Mumbai’s Art Deco cinemas (Liberty Cinema or Metro Adlabs); also, sometimes, tours of government run, Film City.
Iosis Medi Spa – 101, 102 B Wing, Link Palace; 011-91-22-4268-2727;; usual massage options as well as more invasive procedures, such as Botox; run by Bollywood star Shilpa Shetty and cosmetologist, Kiran Bawa.
Khotachiwadi Welfare & Heritage Trust – 011-91-22-2387-5725; tours of Khotachiwadi district, including timeworn wafer factory and stop at 180 year-old home of James Ferreira (fashion designer and Mumbai native) family (boutique and studio); evening torchlight trips provide unique perspective; book at least week in advance.

H. Ajoomal – Palladium, 1st Level (Phoenix Mills, near High Street Phoenix Mall); 011-91-22-3072-6270;; handcrafted stone jewelry; extraordinary.
Amrapali Jewels – Phoolwari Cottage, Juhu Church Road; 011-91-22-2612-5001;; near Prithvi Theater; distinguished silverwork.
Ananya – 3 Pluto Building, Turner Road; 011-91-22-6677-9182;; silk and jeweled kurtas; plain cotton tunics (typically for men but here reinvented for women).
Audelade – SkyZone, 1st Level (Phoenix Mills, near High Street Phoenix Mall); 011-91-22-2496-9191;; footwear and bags; again, worth special trip.
Aza – Altamount Road (at Grant Road); 011-91-22-2353-0212; contemporary clothes with color, sequins, and zari (metallic thread); Indian haute couture and prêt-a-porter by Manish Malhotra, Surily Goel & Sabyasachi Mukherjee.
Baavree Plus – Opera House; 011-91-98-6775-5855; beautiful bracelets.
Barefoot – Ananda Villa, Pali Mala Road (1st floor); 011-91-22- 3296-5067; embellished styles of thonglike, all-leather handmade sandals called chappals.
Bliss – 180 Aram Nagar 1 (Fisheries University Road, 7 Bungalows); 011-91-22-2633-2111; 2-level boutique housed in gated white cottage with blue windows and doors.
Bodhi Art – 28 K. Dubash Marg & 14 Elphinston Estate, Malet Bunder Road; 011-91-22-6610-0125;; 2-level space in Kala Ghoda district.
Bombay Electric – 1 Reay House, Best Marg (Colaba); 011-91-22-2287-6276;; both outré and international celebrity designers; Suhani Pittie jewelry and Anshu Arora Sen’s ingenious women’s line, Small Shop.
Bombay Store – Grand Galleria, High Street Phoenix Mall 462 (Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel); 011-91-22-2497-1025;; century-old landmark that sells all Indian crafts.
Bungalow 8 – under bleachers at Wankhede Cricket Stadium (Colaba); 011-91-22-2281-9880;; Mumbai “must see”; clothing, accessories, etc., from flea markets across India.
Chamomile – Palladium, 1st Level (Phoenix Mills, near High Street Phoenix Mall); 011-91-22-4004-9983; local designers’ boutique.
Chatterjee & Lal – 1/18 Kamal Mansion, Arthur Bunder Road; 011-91-22-2202-3787;; Colaba neighborhood gallery.
Chemould Prescott Road – Queens Mansion, G. Talwat-kar marg (Kala Ghoda, on 3rd Floor); 011-91-22-2200-0211;; among city’s oldest galleries (since 1963); contemporary artists.
Cotton World – 207 Ram Nimi Building, 8 Mandlik Road (Colaba); 011-91-22-2285-0060;
Curio Cottage – 19 Mahakavi Bhushan Marg (behind Regal Cinema); 011-91-22-2202-2607; semiprecious stone-encrusted handbag charms, belts, necklaces, toe rings, bracelets & earrings, set in silver.
Dadar Flower Market – Bhavani Shankar Road (by Dadar Station); beautiful.
Essajee & Son – Lands Down House, Battery Street; 011-91-22-2202-1071; handpicked curios and furniture from across India; 15K square foot warehouse, 30 minutes away, worth trip.
Fab India – Kala Ghoda, Jeroo Building 137, MG Road (Colaba); 011-91-22-2262-6539;; traditional clothing and textiles.
Filter – 43 V.B. Ghandi Marg (Kala Ghoda); 011-91-22-2288-7070;; small design shop.
Galerie Mirchandani + Steinruecke – 2 Sunny House, 16-18 Mereweather Road; 011-91-22-2202-3030;; behind Taj hotel; established painters.
Gallery BMB – Fort; 011-91-22-2200-0061;; art.
Gallery Maskara – 6/7 3rd Pasta Lane Colaba; 011-91-22-2202-3056;; converted cotton storehouse; now art gallery.
Geeta Khandelwai – 011-91-22-2352-1275; by appointment only because sells out of home; beaded and/or crocheted bags, patchwork quilts, and jewelry made of buttons.
Golden Boutique – 4 Mandlik Road (opposite Colaba Police Station); 011-91-22-2202-8327; tailor.
Good Earth – 2 Reay House; 011-91-22-2202-1030;; upscale home store.
Good Earth – Raghuvanshi Mansion, Raghuvanshi Mills Compound, Lower Parel; 011-91-22-2495-1954;; socialite Anita Lal’s 20K square foot complex is both housewares store, café by day, and restaurant by night.
Hema Shroff Patel – 011-91-98-2115-0212; by appointment only because sells out of home; shawls, stoles & tunics woven by villagers.
High Street Phoenix – Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel; 011-91-22-2496-4307;; one-time textile mill reinvented as high-end shopping hub; check out Tresmode (shoestore), Hidesign (handbags), and Shantanu & Nikhil (India’s Stella McCartney).
Jehangir Art Gallery – 161 Khalagoda; 011-91-22-2284-3989; tremendous public space displaying all local artists of prominence.
Kimaya – Kemps Corner, 3 Delstar, or Juhu, 2 Asha Colony, Juhu Tara Road (opposite Hotel Sea Princess); 011-91-22-2660-5575;; boutique that focuses on luxe clothes; trousseau wear.
Melange – 33 Cumballa Hill; 011-91-22-2352-0944;; ethnic-inspired avant-garde fashions; Indian silks cut Japanese styles and fluid tunics in organic cotton; dyed silk caftans; metallic clutches with jewel accents.
Le Mill – 17-25 Nandlal Jani Road (Wadi Bunder East, off P. D’Mello Road); 011-91-22-2374-2415;; concept design store (accessories, books, carpets, clothing, décor items, furniture, and textiles, as well as flower shop and organic cafe).
Le Mill – 2 Meherabad Apartments (near. St. Stephens Church, Warden Road); 011-91-98-2044-4042;; concept design store (accessories, books, carpets, clothing, décor items, furniture, and textiles, as well as flower shop and organic cafe).
Mini Market – 33-31 Mutton Street (at Chor Bazaar); 011-91-22-2347-2427; Shahid Mansoori’s Bollywood memorabilia store; 4K film posters.
Mogra – SkyZone, 1st Level (Phoenix Mills, near High Street Phoenix Mall); 011-91-22-2496-0809; Indian-made fabrics and fabric items.
Moss – 15A Union Park; 011-91-22-2646-0707; colorful brocade bags and shoes.
My Beautiful Embroideries – 213 Nariman Point (2nd floor); 011-91-22-4050-9200;; owned by Perveez Aggarwal; traditional but chic saris, scarves, skirts & tunics.
Phillips – Madam Cama Road; 011-91-22-2282-0782;; established in 1860; oldest Mumbai antique gallery; folk and tribal art, and Burmese lacquer; Indian maps and lithographs dating back to 1800s.
D. Popli & Sons – Readymoney Building, Battery Street; 011-91-22-2202-1694; specializes in Victorian and Indian silver and gold jewelry, silverware, and household objects.
Project 88 – BMP Building, N.A. Sawant Marg, Ground Floor (near Colaba Fire Station); 011-91-22-2281-0066;; contemporary Indian art.
Rhythm House – 40 K. Dubah Marg (Kala Ghoda); 011-91-22-4322-2727;; CDs and DVDs.
Rose – 72B Desai Road; 011-91-22-2368-5287;; chandelier earrings and cocktail rings; not subtle; extravagant.
Sabyasachi – 48 V.B. Ghandi Marg, 3rd Floor (Kala Ghoda); 011-91-22-2262-3335;; Kolkata designer’s Mumbai location.
Sakshi Gallery – Tanna House, 11A Nathalal Parekh Marg; 011- 91-22-6610-3424;
Tarun Tahiliani – Mi-Casa Junction of St. Teresa Road & 28th Road (Bandra West); 011-91-22-2642-0643;; chain; designer signature gowns; daywear; wedding dresses; plus, dresses by other Indian designers.
Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri – 241-243 Zaveri Bazaar; 011-91-22-2512-5007;; founded in 1864; Willy Wonka factory for gold lovers.
Monica Chudasama Vaziralli – 011-91-98-2007-8611; personal shopper descended from royalty; knows all best deals; $500 per day.
Volte – 2/19 Kamal Mansions (above White Pearl Hotel); 011-91-22-2204-1220;; art gallery.
Zooni – 10 Hi-Ville Road; lace and modern sequined versions of churidar – traditional Indian women’s trousers, worn like wrinkled leggings.
Zoya – Gulistan A, D’Monte Park Road (north Mumbai’s Bandra neighborhood); 011-91-22-2642-0888; eclectic Indo-Western wear; accessories and shoes.

Abdul Rahman Street – near Crawford Market in south Mumbai center; handmade paper, party decorations, ribbons, stationary, textiles, & trimmings; open Monday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-7:00 p.m.; closed Fridays; arrive early.
Bhau Daji Lad Museum – Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar Road (Byculla); 011-91-22-2373-1234;; Mumbai’s oldest museum; focuses on Raj.
Chor (“Thieves”) Bazaar – Mutton Street, 10-minute drive from Crawford Market; chandaliers, lamps, old ship clocks, paintings, plates, and prints; open 11:00 a.m.-sunset; closed Fridays and half-days during Ramadan.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMVS) – 159-161 Mahatma Gandhi Road (Kala Ghoda); 011-91-22-2284-4519;; miniature paintings formerly owned by Prince Albert.
Colaba Art District – numerous galleries.
Crawford Market – in colonial warehouse in south Mumbai city center; baskets, foods, luggage, and perfume; open daily from 9:00 a.m.-5:30 p.m., except Sundays, when closes at noon.
Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum – 91A Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar Road; 011-91-22-3249-9155; 2005 UNESCO excellence award winner; quirky and old-fashioned; showcases industrial crafts; dioramas.
Elephanta Island – Maharashtra (by ferry); 011-91-22-2282-0139; take 1-hour (rickety) ferry to island to see Buddhist and Hindu shrines and cave art (note that boats depart from Gateway of India every half-hour, Wednesday-Monday 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. or 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m., depending on season).
Haji Ali Dargah – built on tiny islet rising out of Worli Bay; 377 year-old pilgrimage place; 10Ks Muslim pilgrims every day to worship; narrow, unrailed causeway leads to islet so go at low tide; 85-foot tower with elaborate, mirrorlike colored mosaics.
Hanging Gardens – Malabar Hill (western side, across from Kamala Nehru Park); created in 19th Century; great place to watch sunset.
Khotachiwadi – among Mumbai’s oldest neighborhoods; 10-block cluster of picturesque 18th-19th Century colonial bungalows with latticed windows and trellised balconies; only 28 of original 67 dwellings, near Chowpatty Beach, remain.
Kala Ghoda – heritage district.
Mani Bhavan Gandhi Sangrahalaya – 19 Laburnum Road; 011- 91-22-2380 5864;; Gandhi’s home from 1917-34; museum.
National Centre for Performing Arts – Nariman Point; 011-91-22-824-567;
National Gallery of Modern Art – Mahatma Ghandi Road & Madame Cama Road (Kala Ghoda); 011-91-23-386-111;; worth special trip.
Prithvi Theater – 20 Janki Kutir, Juhu Church Road; 011-91-22-2614-9546;; artists’ gathering place.
Sasson Docks Fish Market – in Colaba (10-minute drive from Taj Mahal Palace & Tower); staggering sight: crawfish, eel, lobster, Indian pomfret, prawns & salmon; all unloaded off of 500 year-old ships and scaled and sold on docks; opens at 7:00 a.m.-11 p.m.; liveliest in early hours; open daily except during monsoon (June-September); do not go without escort and no photography allowed.
David Sassoon Library & Reading Room – 152 Mahatma Ghandi Road (Kala Ghoda); 011-91-22-2284-3703 (must call to arrange entry);; Victorian era library overlooking busy city street.
Silver Bazaar – near Abdul Rahman Street (in south Mumbai center); wholesale silver jewelry, precious and semi-precious gemstones & trinkets, and new and old artifacts; closed Sundays, otherwise 10:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m.; arrive early.
Jijamata Udyan Zoo (includes Albert Museum & Victoria Gardens) – Jijamata Udyan, Dr. Ambedkar Road (Byculla East); 011-91-22-237-257;; laid out in 1861; many endangered and rare species; spread over 48 acres; within gardens is Albert Museum, which houses local archaeological finds.

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