MONTEVIDEO

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Cake – 1067 Jose Ellauri; 011-598-02-707-6207; cakes.com.uy; dessert restaurant; try mille-feuille, Ramon Novarro (chocolate cake), or alfajores.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Baar Fun Fun – 1229 Ciudadela (Mercado Central); 011-598-02-915-8005; barfunfun.com; founded in 1895; hot spot for tango and candombe music.
●Lotus – World Trade Center; 011-598-02-628-1379; lotus.com.uy; club of moment; disturbingly round, like disco on 1970s space ship.
●El Pony Pisador – 3497 Jose Iturriaga; 011-598-02-622-1885; elponypisador.com.uy.
●La Ronda – 1182 Ciudadela (Canelones, old city); 011-598-02-902-4977; laronda.com.uy; bohemian but nice; outdoor tables.
●El Tinkal – 853 Emilio Frugoni (Palermo, near Rio de la Plata); 011-598-02-418-4705; facebook.com/pages/Tinkal-Bar/119038664798173; small place on La Rambla; neighborhood joint.



HOTELS
●Belmont House – 6512 Riviera; 011-598-02-600-0430; belmonthouse.com; upscale.
●Don Hotel – 234 Piedras; 011-598-02-915-9999 (Old City, across from Mercado del Puerto); donhotel.com.uy; 21 room boutique in 1938 nautical Art Deco building; black and white rooms with glass and granite accents; front rooms have port-view balconies, protected from noise by double-glazed windows; HD-TVs have dozens international channels; blue mosaic rooftop pool, lined with planted palms and surrounded by sprawling deck with lounge areas, tables, and bar (quiet port-gazing).
●Ermitage Hotel – 783 Juan Benito Blanco; 011-598-02-710-4021; ermitagemontevideo.com; 1950s hotel with water views.
●Palacio Salvo – Avenida de 18 de Julio & Plaza Independencia; palaciosalvo.com; apartment in building designed by architect Mario Palanti (who used similar design for Palacio Barolo in Buenos Aires, Argentina); finished in 1928; built on site where Confiteria La Giralda once located (place renowned for being where Gerardo Matos Rodríguez wrote tango La Cumparsita, in 1917).
●Punta Trouville Apart & Suites – 726 Francisco Vidal (and 2957 Juan Maria Perez); 011-598-02-712-0903; puntatrouville.com.uy; rooms with kitchenettes.



RESTAURANTS
●Café Misterio – 1700 Costa Rica (Carrasco); 011-598-02-601-8765; cafemisterio.com.uy; sushi bar considered one of hippest places in town.
●Isla de Flores 1900 – 1900 Isla de Flores Street; 011-598-02-410-5188; isladeflores1900.com.uy; small (6 tables); among Montevideo’s best restaurants; hole-in-wall that specializes in locally sourced offal and meats (lamb, rabbit, beef, pork) prepared in European style mix; fresh fish and handmade pasta are typically in short lineup, too; desserts are simple and well executed; cozy corner property 1-time white-tiled butcher shop; ceilings and walls painted with uneven, brightly colored squares by local artist Juan Uría; glasses are Riedel, utensils are Cristofle, plates are porcelain; atmosphere utterly casual.
●Mercado del Puerto – Piedras and Yacare; 011-598-02-915-4178; mercadodelpuerto.com; grand 19^th Century port market; try wine at Roldo’s or grilled meat at La Maestranza.
●La Pasiva – 1350 Avenida de 18 de Julio (on Plaza Fabini, at Ejido); 011-598-02-908-7429; famous for hotdogs (called ponchos).
●Pizzeria Trouville – 3104 Avenida de 21 de Septiembre; 011-598-02-711-2598; popular diner/pizzeria try muzzarelas (Uruguayan pizza), or chivitos (steak sandwiches).
●El Palenque – Pérez Castellano (old city); 011-598-02-917-0190; elpalenque.com.uy; parrillada, for barbeque.
●Papoñita – 1649 Avenida de 18 de Julio; 011-598-02-408-4840; chivitos.
●La Ronda – 1182 Ciudadela (Canelones, old city); 011-598-02-902-4977; laronda.com.uy; nice bar with different sandwiches and snacks; bohemian; outdoor tables.
●El Tinkal – 853 Emilio Frugoni (Palermo, near Rio de la Plata); 011-598-02-418-4705; facebook.com/pages/Tinkal-Bar/119038664798173; small place on La Rambla; known for its chivitos, thinly-sliced steak sandwiches with bacon, cheese, onions & tomatoes.



SHOPPING
●Mercado de los Artesanos – 1365 Plaza Cagancha; 011-598-02-901-0887; crafts market.



SIGHTS & SITES
●Espacio de Arte Contemporaneo – 1930 Arenal Grande; 011-598-02-929-2066; eac.gub.uy; in former 1888 prison.
●Gurvich Museum – 1377 Ituzaingo (Plaza Matriz); 011-598-02-915-7826; museogurvich.org; 3 floors Jose Gurvich’s works.
●Museo del Carnaval – Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825 (Old City); 011-598-02-916-5493; museodelcarnaval.org; festival history museum.
●Museo Figari – 1427 Juan Carlos Gomez; 011-598-02-915-7065; museofigari.blogspot.com; Pedro Figari, Uruguayan folk artist, works; in Belle Epoque structure.
●Museo Naval – Rambla Presidente Charles de Gaulle y Luis A. De Herrera (Pocitos); 011-598-02-622-1084; artemercosur.org.uy; overlooks Rio de la Plata; naval history.
●Palacio Salvo – Avenida de 18 de Julio & Plaza Independencia; designed by architect Mario Palanti (who used similar design for Palacio Barolo in Buenos Aires, Argentina); finished in 1928; built on site where Confiteria La Giralda once located (place renowned for being where Gerardo Matos Rodríguez wrote tango La Cumparsita, in 1917).
●Plaza Fabini – 18 de Julio and Rio Negro (“Plaza del Entrevero”); downtown plaza; good for people-watching in late afternoon.
●Subte – beneath Plaza Fabini; 011-598-02-908-7643; subtemvd.blogspot.com; open space for public art exhibits.