Tuesday, July 19, 2011


(includes San Lorenzo de Escorial)

Gran Café de Gijón (Cafe Gijon) – 21 Paseo de Recoletos; 011-34-91-522-3737; cafegijon.com; coffeehouse for over 125 years; established on May 15, 1888 by Gumersindo Gómez; despite modest beginnings, after Spanish Civil War became meeting-place for artists, intellectuals, and writers (collectively known as “Generation of ‘36”; famous patrons include Arturo Pérez-Reverte.

Giangrossi – 44 Calle del Príncipe Carlos; 011-34-91-750-3219; giangrossi.es; ice cream; try dulce de leche with banana.

La Latina
Giangrossi – 40 Calle de la Cava Baja; 011-34-90-244-4130; giangrossi.es; ice cream; try dulce de leche with banana.

Happy Day Bakery – 9 Calle del Espíritu Santo; 011-34-91-522-9133; happydaybakery.es; coffee and cupcakes.
Italiana Madrid – 10 Corredera Baja de San Pablo; 011-34-91-523-2126; lovingly restored bookstore and cafe with oak tables and excellent coffee drinks and dessert cakes.

Embassy – 12 Paseo de la Castellana; 011-34-91-435-9480; embassy.es; beloved pastry shop; for tea and sandwiches, too.
Giangrossi – 41 Calle Velasquez; 011-34-91-781-3073; giangrossi.es; ice cream; try dulce de leche with banana.

Chocolateria San Gines – 11 Pasadizo de San Gines; 011-34-91-365-6546; open 24 hours; chocolate and churros.

Giangrossi – 1 Calle de Alberto Aguilera; 011-34-91-444-0130; giangrossi.es; ice cream; try dulce de leche with banana.

La Gabinoteca – 53 Calle Fernández de la Hoz; 011-34-91-399-1500; lagabinoteca.es; funky spot; try creamy cod brandade.

Bar Museo Chicote – 12 Calle Gran Via; 011-34-91-532-6737; museo-chicote.com; cocktail bar frequented by Hemingway in 1930s.
El Son – 21 Calle Fernando VI; 011-34-91-308-0429; always crowded dance club (salsa); open late; cover.
Room Mate Oscar Hotel – 12 Plaza de Vázquez de Mella; 011-34-90-081-8320; room-matehotels.com; for poolside drinks.

Cerveceria Alemana – 6 Plaza de Santa Ana; 011-34-91-429-7033; madrid.salir.com/cerveceria_alemana; since 1904; favored by Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner, and Ernest Hemingway; on lively plaza; Portuguese and Spanish food; named for German tourists who, decades ago, used to come.
Estado Puro – 4 Plaza Canovas del Castillo (at Hotel NH Paseo del Prado); 011-34-91-330-2400; nh-hotels.com/nh/en; well-situated near museum district; ask for quiet room at back; tortilla española comes in glass, beneath creamy potato topping and above custardy egg-yolk with onion; chef is Paco Roncero, who runs Michelin-starred, La Terraza del Casino; mentor was Ferran Adria.
Glass Bar – 34 Carrera de San Jeronimo (at Hotel Urban); 011-34-91-787-7770; derbyhotels.com; roof terrace has bar; classic cocktails.
Hotel de las Letras – 11 Calle Gran Via; 011-34-91-523-7980; hoteldelasletras.com; bar, hotel, and restaurant; renovated; in city’s “literary quarter”; roof-top bar is “must.”
Midnight Rose – 14 Plaza de Santa Ana; 011-34-91-701-6020; midnightrose.es; in ME Madrid Reina Victoria; has faux bull-heads; great mojitos.
La Venencia – 7 Calle Echegaray; 011-34-91-429-7313;
hard to find; on traditional tasca streets in Old Madrid; known for serving Spain’s finest sherry; don’t ask for extra dry martini; rather, ask for Manzanilla, delicate fino with just little chill; if Luis Buñuel were to need film extras, patrons here would be ideal; genially informal waiters serve tapas (garlicky marinated olives, jamon serrano, mojama (cured tuna), and/or blue-cheese canapés); open daily from 7 pm-1:30 am.

El Plato – 36 Paseo Castellana; 011-34-91-435-4618; elplato.es; ultra-modern gastropub overlooking television studio; affordable and cutting edge.

La Latina
Juana La Loca – 4 Plaza de Puerta de Moros; 011-34-91-364-0525; facebook.com/pages/Juana-La-Loca/171836332846912; tapas for grown-ups who like to sit down; huge bar takes up much of main dining room (tables thus in high demand); Juana la Loca was (so story goes) Queen Isabella I’s mad daughter; consider starting with traditional tortilla (potato omelette) with caramelized onions, pato (duck, cucumber, honey & onion wrapped in rice paper) & cod, served tempura-style with artichoke sauce.
Taberna Tempranillo – 38 Cava Baja; 011-34-91-364-1532; step into forbidden, guiri-free Spanish bar culture; may not hear single English word spoken during visit; ask for la carta because if ask for menu, you’re dead meat; will have to survive cold, Spanish stare regardless; warm, rustic, all chipped paint, exposed beams, cool pillars, attractive but not ostentatious clientele and gravity defying wine wall; Spanish wines by glass or bottle; decent tapas and tostas; queso curado among best cheese selection in Iberia.

Sala Juglar – 37 Lavapies; 011-34-91-528-4381; salajuglar.com; flamenco.

Bar Cock – 16 Calle de la Reina; 011-34-91-532-2826; barcock.com; baronial-style bar frequented by actors and artists on downtown street.
Al Cuadrado Taglio Bar – 10 Ballesta; 011-34-91-521-3515; noted for pizza.
Kabokla – 55 Calle San Vicente Ferrer; 011-34-91-532-5966; kabokla.es; Brazilian-themed night venue.
Mui – 4 Calle de la Ballesta; 011-34-91-522-5786; muiballesta4.com; great tapas; try, especially, torreznos (pork belly chunks).

Las Tablas – 9 Plaza de Espana; 011-34-91-542-0520; lastablasmadrid.com; authentic, not kitschy flamenco.

Le Cabrera – 2 Calle de Doña Bárbara de Braganza; 011-34-91-319-9457; lecabrera.com; for gin & tonics.
La Cesta de Recoletos – 10 Calle Recoletos; 011-34-91-140-0696; lacesta.eu; lively; well-heeled patrons.

Tirso de Molina
Casa Patas – 10 Canizares; 011-34-91-369-0496; casapatas.com; drinks are €31 but can enjoy during 90-minute Flamenco performance or other dance/music event; have to reserve on-line.

Las Vistillas
Makita – 20 Don Pedro; 011-34-91-671-1262; makita.es; in bohemian neighborhood, between Royal Palace and rowdy tapas restaurants; good caipirinhas (in giant goblets); artists and filmmakers frequent.

AC Santo Mauro – 36 Calle Zurbano; 011-34-91-319-6900; ac-hotels.com; 10 minute drive north of centro but very discreet; where celebrities stay when want to escape paparazzi; once artistocratic family’s grand estate; encompasses 3 buildings; indoor pool and one of city’s prettiest gardens.
Hotel Ritz Madrid – 5 Plaza de la Lealtad; 011-34-91-701-6767; ritzmadrid.com; Paseo del Prado property in Belle Epoque style; elegant with hand-embroidered linens; afternoon tea service.
Hotel Puerta de America – 41 Avenida de América; 011-34-91-744-5400; hoteles-silken.com; far removed from city center but amazing design confection; 19 acclaimed architects and designers were given carte blanche on 13 floors.

Hostal Adria Santa Ana – 15 Calle Nunez de Arce; 011-34-91-521-1339; hostaladriasantaana.com; affordable; gracious 19th Century rooms with up-to-date 21st Century design and amenities; king-size beds; doubles start at €70.
ME Madrid Reina Victoria – 14 Plaza de Santa Ana; 011-34-91-701-6000; solmelia.com; palatial white building only vaguely resembles previous incarnation as bullfighters’ favored hangout; smallish rooms; spring and fall have milder temperatures and fewer tourists; 3 Grand Suites on 6th floor have floor-to-ceiling windows with views of Plaza skyline.
Hotel Urban – 34 Carrera de San Jerónimo; 011-34-91-787-7770; derbyhotels.com; 2005 property that mixes architectural styles (European, Art Deco, and avant garde); roof terrace has bar.
Westin Palace – 1 Plaza Cortes; 011-34-91-360-8000; starwoodhotels.com; standing opposite House of Commons, landmark building is magnificent; stained glass dome; where Hemingway sometimes stayed; bar featured in Sun Also Rises.

La Latina
Posada del Leon de Oro – 12 Cava Baja; 011-34-91-119-1494; posadadelleondeoro.com; 19th Century posada renovated with modern facelift; reception is desk in lounge-tavern; 17 rooms from 2nd floor up, clustered around central atrium; Plaza Mayor, Royal Palace, and Prado all within easy walking distance.

Las Letras
Hotel de las Letras – 11 Calle Gran Via; 011-34-91-523-7980; hoteldelasletras.com; bar, hotel, and restaurant; renovated; in city’s “literary quarter”; roof-top bar is “must.”

Casa de Madrid – 2 Calle de Arrieta; 011-34-91-559-5791; casademadrid.com; refined, extravagantly decorated rooms make this luxurious 1st choice; overlooks Teatro Real; rooms decorated in old-world style, with each built around theme (e.g., Damascus Suite, Indian Room, & Spanish Room).

Casa de Madrid – 2 Calle Arrieta; 011-34-91-559-5791; casademadrid.com; 7-room, luxury B&B across from Teatro Real.

Hospes Madrid – 3 Plaza de la Indepencia; 011-34-91-432-2911; hospes.es; ask for Puerta de Alcala view and closet space.
Hotel NH Paseo del Prado – 4 Plaza Canovas del Castillo; 011-34-91-330-2400; nh-hotels.com/nh/en; formerly Gran Hotel Canaris; well-situated near museum district; ask for quiet room at back; excellent tapas bar, Estado Puro.
Radisson Blu Hotel – 52 Calle Moratin (at Plaza de Platerias Martinez; 011-34-91-524-2626; radissonblu.com/pradohotel-madrid; in tourist center but excellent for business; reasonably-priced; boutique style; 54 rooms; 1 of best deals for money in city; ask for corner suite; great room service.

Unico Hotel Madrid – 67 Calle Claudio Coello; 011-34-91-781-0173; unicohotelmadrid.com.
Hotel Villa Magna – 22 Paseo de la Castellana; 011-34-91-587-1234; hotelvillamagna.com; proximity to shopping makes preferred address for many tourists; classically modern; Michelin-starred chef; spa.

Hotel Tryp Gran Via – 25 Calle Gran Via; 011-34-91-522-1121; es.solmelia.com; where Ernest Hemingway stayed; 2nd floor breakfast room is named for him; next to red-light district; hotel gives guests access to 2 other Tryp hotels that have swimming pools.

Murillo Cafe – 27 Calle de Ruiz de Alarcon; 011-34-91-369-3689; murillocafe.com; hamburgers.

Casa Benigna – 9 Benigno Soto; 011-34-91-413-3356; among Madrid’s best paella; romantic restaurant.
Sacha – 11 Calle Juan Hurtado de Mendoza; 011-34-91-345-5952; cozy bistro where chefs and journalists eat; playful sketches decorate bistro-like restaurant filled with oversize antique furniture; lasaña de erizo de mar (sea urchin lasagna), arroz con setas y perdiz (rice with mushrooms and partridge), and villagodio (grilled, thick beef cut); small terrace, secluded and sheltered by trees, is popular in summer.
Samm – 3 Calle de Carlos Caamaño; 011-34-91-345-3074; for paella; weather permitting, try to sit on terrace.
Restaurante Zalacain – 4 Alvarez de Baena (Chamartin); 011-34-91-561-4840; restaurantezalacain.com; elegant, exclusive, and small; men should wear jackets and ties; Basque food featuring game and seafood; best dishes are oysters with caviar and sherry jelly, crepes stuffed with smoked fish, ravioli stuffed with mushrooms, foie gras, and truffles, bouillabaisse, and veal escalopes in orange sauce; for dessert, custards, perhaps raspberry or chocolate; 3 Michelin stars; go after 10:30 p.m. for dinner.

Astrid & Gaston – 13 Paseo de la Castellana; 011-34-91-702-6262; astridygaston.com; Peruvian restaurant (international chain).
Asturianos – 94 Calle de Vallehermoso; 011-34-91-533-5947; asturianosenmadrid.com; in workingclass neighborhood on unremarkable street; no celebrity chef, no arcane menu; just bean stews, long-braised meats, and cider-roasted fish; run by same family since 1966 that also produces house wine.
La Broche – 29-31 Calle Miguel Angel; 011-34-91-399-3437; la-broche.com; city’s most “thrilling” new restaurant; cooking requires you to suspend disbelief but also pays tribute to traditional food; dishes as bean escudella with meatballs and foie gras; setting is minimalist cool "box" in which color banished from everything except what’s on plate; La Broche is as radical restaurant as you will find anywhere in Spain; 2 Michelin stars.
Santceloni – 57 Paseo de la Castellana (at Hoteles Hesperia); 011-34-91-210-8840; restaurantesantceloni.com; 2 Michelin stars; spotlights, light wood, large tables covered with off-white cloths, staff in dark grey suits and red ties; vegetable casserole presented in round pot and prepared with pine nuts, port wine and black truffle, black truffle on top of toasted onion bread, with foie gras and apple; pigeon, roasted with pumpkin and more black truffle; banana, nougat (ice cream) and coconut (soup) pudding, baked sea bream with fennel and black truffle stew, roasted monkfish with pig’s ear and bone marrow, roast loin of suckling pig with thyme.

Asiana – 4 Travesía de San Mateo; 011-34-91-310-0965; asianadeco.com; 10 tables; hidden like speakeasy; innovative Spanish cuisine.
La Bardemcilla – 47 Augusto Figueroa; 011-34-91-521-4256; labardemcilla.com; formerly Café Latino; warm Chueca locale run for several years by cinematic Bardem family (Oscar winner Javier, sister Mónica, brother Carlos, and mother Pilar); tapas and raciones bear names from Bardem films, e.g., Croquetas Jamón-Jamón; mingle with largely cool clientele at comfortable bar near entrance and sample caña with some olives or enjoy dinner in comfortable, noisy restaurant at back; try solomillo a la luna (sirloin steak), and chuletas de cordero (lamb chops); varied wine list.
La Cocina de San Anton – 24 Calle Augusto Figueroa; 011-34-91-330-0730; mercadosananton.com; terraced restaurant; pick ingredient and have chef design meal around it; must have reservations.

Estado Puro – 4 Plaza de Canovas del Castillo; 011-34-91-330-2400; low-key, high concept, tapas lunch spot; dinner, too.

La Latina
La Chata – 24 Calle Cava Baja; 011-34-91-366-1458; among Cava Baja's most perennially popular watering holes; behind heavily ornamented tile facade; tapas bar at entrance framed by hanging garlic and Serrano hams, and bullfighter photographs; small atmospheric adjoining area, where prices are more reasonable than in main downstairs restaurant; try roast suckling pig, roast lamb, calamares en su tinta (squid in its own ink), grilled steak filet with peppercorns, or omelets flavored with eel strips.
Delic – 14 Costanilla de San Andres; 011-34-91-364-5450; deliccafe.com; smart café for lunch.
Taberna Bilbao – 8 Costanilla de San Andres; 011-34-91-365-6125; popular tavern with locals somewhere between tapas bar and restaurant; Basque cuisine; try mushroom revueltos (scrambled eggs), habas (fava beans), or bacalao (cod), and order glass of txakolí (tart, young Basque white wine).
La Herradura – 32 Montserrat; 011-34-91-542-3936; la-herradura-madrid.com; locals love; perfect for Mexican breakfast, huevos rancheros and café de olla.
Casa Lucas – 30 Cava Baja; 011-34-91-365-0804; casalucas.es; small, cozy wine bar with short but creative homemade tapas selection, including carinena (grilled pork sirloin with caramelized onion), madrid (scrambled eggs with onion, morcilla, or blood pudding, and pine nuts in tomato base), and huevos a la Macarena (puff pastry with mushrooms, fried artichokes, fried ham, béchamel, and pine nuts).
Taberna Tempranillo – 38 Cava Baja; 011-34-91-364-1532; step into forbidden, guiri-free Spanish bar culture; may not hear single English word spoken during visit; ask for la carta because if ask for menu, you’re dead meat; will have to survive cold, Spanish stare regardless; warm, rustic, all chipped paint, exposed beams, cool pillars, attractive but not ostentatious clientele and gravity defying wine wall; Spanish wines by glass or bottle; decent tapas and tostas; queso curado among best cheese selection in Iberia.

Al Cuadrado Taglio Bar – 10 Ballesta; 011-34-91-521-3515; noted for pizza.
La Tasquita de Enfrente – 6 Calle Ballesta; 011-34-91-532-5449; latasquitadeenfrente.com; to succeed internationally, chefs have to experiment while maintaining fidelity to traditional bases; difficult to overstate how popular this place is among people-in-know in Madrid’s food scene; chef is Juanjo López; his seasonal menu never ceases to surprise (try pea soup with caviar and hamburgers with foie gras and truffles) but also combines simple Spanish staples such as squid with broad beans to stunning effect; reservations are essential.

Taberneros – 9 Calle de Santiago; 011-34-91-542-2160; restaurantetaberneros.es; Japanese and tapas; museumlike wine bar; menu includes local specialties like croquetas, grilled mussels, duck sirloin, fresh liver, as well as Asian-inspired ones such as McKenji (hake and king prawn burger with Japanese mustard) or tuna loin in soy sauce; be prepared to wait.

Puerta del Sol
La Cuchara de Tepa – 2 Calle San Sebastian (at Hotel NH Palacio); 011-34-91-389-6490; nh-hotels.com; Michelin-starred chef; late-night tapas.

Arzabal – 13 Avenida de Menéndez Pelayo; 011-34-91-409-5661; arzabal.com; only thing typical about this popular tapas bar are Iberian hams hanging from ceiling and paper tablecloths; food quality and sophistication, however, stand well above crowd; try fresh, salty anchovies with bread and tomato, fried artichokes, and/or salmorejo (garlicky, thick gazpacho) accompanied by cold beer or wine; at handful tables, share more elaborate fare such as sautéed rice with truffle and wild mushrooms, quail with sautéed onions, and/or tomato-and-white tuna-belly salad.
Arzabal – 2 Calle Doctor Castelo; 011-34-91-557-2691; arzabal.com; only thing typical about this popular tapas bar are Iberian hams hanging from ceiling and paper tablecloths; food quality and sophistication, however, stand well above crowd; try fresh, salty anchovies with bread and tomato, fried artichokes, and/or salmorejo (garlicky, thick gazpacho) accompanied by cold beer or wine; at handful tables, share more elaborate fare such as sautéed rice with truffle and wild mushrooms, quail with sautéed onions, and/or tomato-and-white tuna-belly salad.
Laredo – 30 Calle Doctor Castelo; 011-34-91-573-3061; mostly simple tapas preparations; as good as Arzabal and in same neighborhood.
Viridiana – 14 Calle de Juan de Mena; 011-34-91-531-1039; restauranteviridiana.com; named after 1961 Luis Buñuel film; widely regarded as among Madrid's finest restaurants; chef and part-owner, Abraham García film historian and self-taught chef; try chicken pastilla laced with cinnamon, and/or flores de calabaza con jamón iberico y queso de Oaxaca en tortillas al mole poblano (pumpkin flowers with Iberian ham and Oaxaca cheese wrapped in Mexican tortillas and covered with traditional mole sauce); 30 years old and notable for personalized attention.

Juan March Foundation – 77 Castello; 011-34-91-435-4240; march.es; cafeteria is excellent and affordable.
Laray – 6 Calle de los Hermanos Bécquer; 011-34-91-564-0175; larayrestaurante.com; on Thursdays, live flamenco after midnight.
Loft 39 – 39 Calle Velasquez; 011-34-91-432-4386; restauranteloft39.com; posh lounge with elegant food; try to get rooftop terrace table.
La Trainera – 60 Calle de Lagasca; 011-34-91-576-8035; latrainera.es; landmark seafood restaurant whose beamed ceiling lined with nautical gear.

El Sobrino de Botin – 17 Cuchilleros (near Plaza Mayor); 011-34-91-366-4217; botin.es; Guiness Book of World Records designates “oldest restaurant in world” (open since 1725); Hemingway ate and set scene from Sun Also Rises here; hand-sliced Serrano ham so gossamer thin you can read book through it; have roast suckling pig and drink Rioja Alta.
Casa Labra – 12 Tetuan; 011-34-91-531-0081; casalabra.es; city’s ultimate no-fuss establishment since 1860; stand in line for tapas; try battered cod, cod croquetas, and/or pepito de ternera (steak sandwich).
Malaspina – 9 Calle de Cadiz; 011-34-91-523-4024; tapas; serves throughout day; cozy place with semi-rustic décor and wooden tables.
Pozo Real – 6 Pozo; 011-34-91-523-8243; great food.
Terraza del Casino – 15 Calles Alcala; 011-34-91-532-1275; casinodemadrid.es; luxe restaurant on Casino’s top floor (historical building from 1910); panoramic view of Madrid’s heart; high ceilings and crystal chandeliers; serves raya (skate) in oil and saffron with parsley purée and nuts on bed of finely diced fries, succulent merluza a la gallega (Galician hake), crema de la fabada asturiana (creamed Asturian bean soup), and steeply priced jamón Jabugo (cured ham from acorn-fed pigs) served with menestra (mixed vegetables) al dente; only French champagne and Spanish wines listed (1 of best is rounded woody red, Ribera del Duero from Valladolid province).
Toma – 14 Conde Duque (Universidad); 011-34-91-547-4996; affordable lunch menu; owned by American.

Tirso de Molina
Alboroque – 34 Atocha; 011-34-90-220-3025; alboroque.es; Michelin star; intimate interior; emphasizes seafood but also has braised rabbit, lamb, etc.

Gabriel – 10 Conde Duque; 011-34-91-542-8019; restaurantegabriel.com; local and warm atmosphere; sophisticated tapas.
El Jardin Secreto – 22 San Bernardino; 011-34-91-541-8023; for caipirinhas and chocolate cake.

Adventurous Appetites – 011-34-63-933-1073; adventurousappetites.com; ask for James Fraser; tours tapas bars.
Lab Room – 63 Calle Lagasca (Justicia); 011-34-91-431-2198; thelabroom.com; stylish day spa.
Made for Spain – 7 Plaza de las Salesas (Las Salesas); 011-34-91-310-7070; madeforspain.com; designed tours.
Medina Mayrit – 14 Calle Atocha (Sol); 011-34-90-233-3334; medinamayrit.es; authentic, Moorish hammam; bring bathing-suit.
Wellington Society of Madrid – 011-34-60-914-3203; wellsoc.org; historic walking tours; make sure to be on tour led by Stephen Drake-Jones, former University of Madrid professor (from Leeds).

Sybilla – 12 Callejon de Jorge Juan; 011-34-91-578-1322; jocomomola.es; vibrant clothing and housewares.

Luxenter – 8 Calle del Almirante (Chamberi); 011-34-91-521-5876; luxenter.com; jewelry.

Arquitectura Humana – 25 Calle Gravina; 011-34-91-532-9037; arquitecturahumana.es; women’s clothing.
Lurdes Bergada – 8 Conde de Xiquena; 011-34-91-531-9958; lurdesbergada.es; womens’ wear.
El Ganso – 2 Calle Fuencarral; 011-34-91-523-5437; elganso.com; trendy, Euro-prep fashion.
Hakei – 35 Calle Fuencarral (Chueca); 011-34-91-522-0934; hakei.com; many locations around country; Spanish clothing and leather goods store; huge bags, boots, and shoes selection.
Isolee – 19 Infantas; 011-34-91-524-1298; isolee.com; eat sushi, load your iPod, and buy Valentino.
Pez – 15 Calle Regueros; 011-34-91-310-6677; American and European fashion designs.
Proxima Parada – 9 Conde de Xiquena; 011-34-91-531-9958; proximaparadamadrid.com; womens’ clothing.
Mercado San Anton – 24 Calle Augusto Figueroa; 011-34-91-330-0730; mercadosananton.com; food market.

Becara – 31 Calle Lope de Vega; 011-34-91-296-6666; becara.com; home accessories.
Casa Mira – 30 Carrera de San Jeronimo (Cortes); 011-34-91-429-6796; 77madrid.com/casa_mira.html; candies.

Cuatro Caminos
Castaner – 40 Avenida del General Perón; 011-34-91-556-6902; castaner.com; famous shoemaker (espadrilles) since 1927.

Elisa Bracci – 2 Barbara de Braganza; 011-34-91-435-0305; elisabracci.es; evening wear for women.
Cacao Sampaka – 4 Calle Orellana; 011-34-91-319-5840; cacaosampaka.com; chocolate shop run by Ferran Adria’s older brother, Albert.
Castaner – 24 Calle del Almirante; 011-34-91-523-7214; castaner.com; famous shoemaker (espadrilles) since 1927.
Fun & Basics – 43 Calle Fuencarral; 011-34-91-522-0795; facebook.com/pages/Fun-Basics/178888918803294; backpacks, bags, and luggage.

La Latina
Calzados Lobo – 30 Calle de Toledo; 011-34-91-366-4017; calzadoslobo.com; for espadrilles.
Especialidades Blas Martin – 44 Toledo; 011-34-91-365-2862; 60by80.com/madrid/specialty-shops/especialidades-blas-martin.html; street is like old school strip mall, lined with specialty shops; high-and low-end canned seafood in scale and variety almost impossible to conceive.
Helena Rohner – 4 Calle Alemendro; 011-34-91-365-7906; helenarohner.com; jewelry.

Las Salesas
Oak – 7 Belen; 011-34-91-702-1401; America-meets-Europe fashion wear.
Suus – 4 Argensola; 011-34-91-702-4750; suus.es; handmade shoes.

La Fabrica Galeria – 9 Calle Alameda; 011-34-91-360-1325; lafabricagaleria.com; art gallery.

Corachan y Delgado – 8 Calle Corredera Baja de San Pablo; 011-34-91-523-0364; facebook.com/CORACHANyDELGADO; glamorous vintage clothing; must-see shopping experience.
Femisa Objetos Perdidos – 8 Corredera Baja de San Pablo; 011-34-91-523-0364; facebook.com/FEMISA.OBJETOS.PERDIDOS; vintage clothing as well as some new “found” pieces.
Guk – 2 Calle de Loreto Prado y Enrique Chicote; 011-34-91-523-9116; gukshop.com; fashionable clothing.
Italiana Madrid – 10 Corredera Baja de San Pablo; 011-34-91-523-2126; lovingly restored bookstore and cafe; focus on Italian art and travel books.
Radio City Discos – 1 Plaza Guardias de Corps; 011-34-91-547-7767; radiocitydiscos.com; independent and vintage music.

Mercado San Miguel – 3 Plaza Oriente; 011-34-91-542-4939; mercadodesanmiguel.es; opened in 1916 and recently renovated; shops include cafeteria, cerveceria, Pasteleria Austriaca, Daniel Sorlut (champagne and oyster bar); and La Fromagerie.

Baby Deli – 54 Calle de Lagasca; 011-34-91-576-3810; babydeli.com; Carolina Herrera’s daughter’s store; for children’s stuff.
Becara – 18 Calle de Juan Bravo; 011-34-91-781-1162; becaramadrid.com; home accessories.
Benny Room – 17 Conde de Xiquena; 011-34-91-702-2529; bennyroommadrid.blogspot.com; vintage and original wear.
Castaner – 51 Claudio Coello; 011-34-91-578-1890; castaner.com; famous shoemaker (espadrilles) since 1927.
Isolee – 55 Claudio Coello; 011-34-91-287-6136; isolee.com; eat sushi, load your iPod, and buy Valentino; 2 other stores.
Loewe – 34 Serrano; 011-34-91-426-3588; loewe.es; leather goods; other locations throughout city.
Luxenter – 36 Calle de Ayala; 011-34-91-578-1984; luxenter.com; jewelry.
Purificacion Garcia – 95 Claudio Coello; 011-34-91-576-5415; purificaciongarcia.com; mens’ clothing.
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada – 27 Calle de Serrano; 011-34-91-319-0501; agatharuizdelaprada.com; Madrid’s fashion scene pioneer’s flagship, selling everything from clothes to furniture.

Borca – 2 Marques Viudo de Pontejos (Sol); 011-34-91-532-6153; borca.es; linens.

Isolee – 38-40 Avenida General Peron; 011-34-91-770-4416; isolee.com; eat sushi, load your iPod, and buy Valentino; 2 other stores.

Blanca Berlin Galeria – 28 Calle del Limon; 011-34-91-542-9313; blancaberlingaleria.com; representing Spanish, as well as American, Brazilian, Korean, and Mexican photographers.
Clean – 36 Acuerdo; 011-34-91-593-9452; madrid.salir.com/clean; women’s accessories and clothing.
Duke – 28 Conde Duque; 011-34-91-542-4849; facebook.com/dukeshoes; high-end sneakers.
Mini – 24 Calle del Limon; 011-34-91-548-0835; gruposportivo.com; adult men’s wear.
Mint Marche Douce – 14 Conde Duque; 011-34-91-541-8366; damadama.es/blog/mint-marche-douce; specializes in French and Scandinavian designs for women.
Sportivo – 30 Conde Duque; 011-34-91-542-5661; gruposportivo.com; men’s sportswear.

Prado Museum – 23 Calle Ruiz de Alarcón (Atocha, at Paseo del Prado); 011-34-91-330-2800; museoprado.mcu.es; features 1 of world’s finest collections of European art, from 12th-19th Century CE, based on former Spanish Royal Collection; note, see Caravaggio’s David and Goliath (1599).
Real Jardin Botanico – 2 Plaza Murillo (Atocha); 011-34-91-420-3017; rjb.csic.es; right alongside Paseo del Prado, just south of Prado museum; inside this deep-green glade, with over 30K plants from around world.
Reina Sofia Museum – 52 Santa Isabel (Atocha); 011-34-91-774-1000; museoreinasofia.es; 20th and 21st Century art; Guernica is here.

Royal Palace of Madrid – Calle Bailén; 011-34-91-454-8700; patrimonionacional.es; Caravaggio’s Salome with Head of John the Baptist (1609).
Temple of Debod – 1 Calle Ferraz; 011-34-91-366-7415; esmadrid.com/en/tourist-information/templo-de-debod; ancient Egyptian temple dismantled & rebuilt in Madrid, transported from 10 miles south of Aswan in southern Egypt; in early 2nd Century BCE, Adikhalamani (Tabriqo), Meroë Kushite king, started its construction by building small single room chapel dedicated to Amun; later, during Ptolemy VI, Ptolemy VIII & Ptolemy XII reigns, extended on all 4 sides to form small temple dedicated to Isis of Philae; in 1960, due to Aswan High Dam construction, UNESCO made international call to save it; temple rebuilt in Parque del Oeste, near Royal Palace of Madrid & opened to public in 1972.

Estadio Santiago Bernabéu – 1 Avenida de Concha Espina; 011-34-913-984-300l; realmadrid.com or madrid-tickets.net; soccer tickets.

Museo del Romanticismo – 13 Calle San Mateo; 011-34-91-448-1045; museoromanticismo.mcu.es; small, eclectic museum depicting 19th Century life in Madrid; virtually every aspect depicted; often called “box of sweets,” is must-see experience.

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza – 8 Paseo del Prado; 011-34-91-369-0151; museothyssen.org; overwhelming collection; Caravaggio’s Saint Catherine of Alexandria (1598).

Cine Dore – 3 Calle de Santa Isabel; 011-34-91-369-2118; mcu.es/cine/MC/FE/index.html; housed in gorgeous 1920s theater.
Mercado San Miguel – Plaza de San Miguel; 011-34-91-542-4936; mercadodesanmiguel.es; city center.
El Rastro – between Plaza Mayor, La Latina, and Puerta de Toledo; weekly Sunday flea market.

Plaza de Santa Ana – 1 Plaza de Santa Ana; 011-34-91-521-3058; plazasantaana.com; leafy plaza in city center.

La Latina
Basilica of San Francisco el Grande – 1 Calle San Buenaventura; 011-34-91-365-3800; sacred-destinations.com/spain/madrid-basilica-de-san-francisco-el-grande; imposing & recently restored baroque basilica; among Madrid’s grandest old churches; extravagantly frescoed dome is largest in Spain & 4th largest in world; designed by Francesco Sabatini, who also designed Puerta de Alcalá & finished off Palacio Real; in neo-plateresque Capilla de San Bernardino, central fresco painted by Goya in early career (unusually, Goya has painted himself into scene (in yellow shirt on right); corridors behind high altar (accessible only as part of guided visit) lined with artworks from 17th-19th Centuries; highlights include Francisco Zurbarán & Francisco Pacheco paintings (latter being father-in-law & teacher of Velázquez); re opening hours: although entry is free during morning Mass times, no access to museum & lights in Capilla de San Bernardino won’t be on to illuminate Goya; at all other times, visit is by Spanish-language guided tour (included in admission price).

La Casa Encendida – 2 Ronda Valencia; 011-34-91-243-0322; lacasaencendida.com; sprawling, multi-level cultural center.

Matadero – 14 Paseo de la Chopera; 011-34-91-717-7309; mataderomadrid.org; slaughterhouse compound, now converted into arts center; includes Casa del Lector (reading center that is concrete catwalk marvel), Cineteca (2-screen theater and film archive), Cantina (coffee bar), Intermediae (mixed-use hangout lounge), and Central de Diseño (Design Center).

Casa del Campo – Calle del Campo; practically, prolongation of Monte del Pardo forest area; Madrid’s (and 1 of Europe’s) largest parks; over 1.7K hectares; formerly royal hunting estate; name means “country house,” referring to building bought in 16th Century by King Filipe II, around which other estates then built; includes lake, city’s zoo, and amusement park; although not as popular as Retiro, also where Madrid families usually head on sunny days; Teleferico cable car ends here in its journey from Paseo del Pintor Rosales.
Centro Municipal Deportivo Casa de Campo – 7 Paseo del Angel; 011-34-91-463-0050; towering cedar and cypress trees shade grassy knolls where visitors spread towels to take siestas in between swims in this large, urban swimming pool open to public.
Museo de Traje – 2 Avenida Juan de Herrera; 011-34-91-550-4700; museodeltraje.mcu.es; bullfighting and costume museum, with Balenciaga collection.
Parque del Oeste – 7 Paseo Moret; 011-34-91-548-9512; on Madrid’s western fringes, sloping down to Manzanares River (area also called Rosales); beautiful old garden with spacious stretches of lawn and shady old trees; large rose garden down hill, La Rosaleda, designed in 1900 by landscape gardener Cecilio Rodríguez; cedars, firs, beeches, pine trees, and winding paths; cable car station; Ceramic School; Tinaja park; and Music Bandstand.
Templo de Debod – 2 Paseo del Pintor Rosales; 011-34-91-366-7415; zoover.ch; Madrid’s only Egyptian temple.

Almudena Cathedral – 10 Calle de Bailén; 011-34-91-542-2200; catedraldelaalmudena.es; Madrid Roman Catholic Archdiocese seat; consecrated by Pope John Paul II in 1993; when Spanish capital transferred from Toledo to Madrid in 1561, Church seat remained in Toledo & new capital had no cathedral; plans to build cathedral in Madrid dedicated to Almudena Virgin discussed as early as 16th Century but even though Spain built more than 40 cities in New World during that century & plenty of cathedrals, cost of expanding & keeping Empire came 1st & Madrid cathedral construction postponed; Almudena only began in 1879 on medieval mosque site (structure destroyed in 1083 when Alfonso VI reconquered Madrid); Francisco de Cubas, Marquis of Cubas, designed & directed its construction in Gothic revival style; construction ceased completely during Spanish Civil War & project abandoned until 1950, when Fernando Chueca Goitia adapted de Cubas plan to baroque exterior to match grey & white façade of Palacio Real, which stands directly opposite; cathedral not completed until 1993; Neo-Gothic interior is uniquely modern, with chapels & statues of contemporary artists, in heretogeneous styles, from historical revivals to pop-art decor.

Principe Pio
Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida – 5 Florida; 011-34-91-542-0722; built 1792-1798 by King Carlos IV, who also commissioned Goya to paint main dome and vaults (opposite main dome's frightening dead man image, Goya painted himself as man covered with black cloak; Goya, who died in Bordeaux in 1828, is buried here (without his head, stolen in France), under unadorned gravestone.

CaixaForum Madrid – 36 Paseo del Prado; 011-34-91-330-7300; obrasocial.lacaixa.es; in 110 year-old power plant; variety of historic (old and modern) exhibitions.
CaixaForum Madrid – 36 Paseo del Prado; 011-34-91-330-7300; obrasocial.lacaixa.es; in 110 year-old power plant; variety of historic (old and modern) exhibitions.
Palacio de Cristal – Parque de El Buen Retiro; 011-34-91-574-6614; free admission; art installations.
Parque del Buen Retiro – Plaza de la Independencia (at Palacio de Cristal’s south avenue); 011-34-91-588-8790; large, beautiful park with lake and public boating.

Carlos de Amberes Foundation – 99 Claudio Coello; 011-34-91-435-2201; fcamberes.org; founded 4 centuries ago as religious organization to assist Flemish population; prized possession is Rubens’ The Martyrdom of St. Andrew.
BBVA – 10 Paseo de Recoletos; 011-34-91-537-6964; fbbva.es; in stunning Palacio del Marques de Salamanca; variety of art exhibits.
Cultural Institute of Foundation Mapfre – 23 Paseo de Recoletos; 011-34-91-581-6000; fundacionmapfre.com; in restored palace on Madrid’s version of 5th Avenue; paintings from 1880 to WWII.
Juan March Foundation – 77 Castello; 011-34-91-435-4240; march.es; named for Mallorcan founder of 1 of Spain’s most exclusive private banks; variety of art exhibits.
Laray – 6 Calle de los Hermanos Bécquer; 011-34-91-564-0175; larayrestaurante.com; on Thursdays, live flamenco after midnight.
Parque Quinta Fuente del Berro – 1 Calle Enrique D’Almonte (Salamanca); 011-34-91-429-4951; 1 of best-known parks in Madrid; means Watercress Fountain Villa; next to M-30 (main transport artery, also called La Paz Avenue); shadowy trees and winding pathways crossing lawns; many statues and old mansion on park’s premises.
Telefonica Foundation – 28 Gran Via (enter at 2 Calle Valverde); 011-34-91-522-6645; fundacion.telefonica.com; art that demonstrates technology.
Las Ventas – Plaza de Toros de las Ventas; 011-34-91-356-2200; las-ventas.com; among world’s premier bullfighting ring; Hemingway liked “section 9.”

San Lorenzo de Escorial
El Escorial – 1 Calle Juan de Borbón y Battemberg; 011-34-918-905-902; el-escorial.com; located about half hour north-west of Madrid; massive monastery-palace commissioned by Philip II; see separate entry for San Lorenzo de Escorial.
Madrid Rio – gomadrid.com/beach; Madrid’s river, Manzanares, has been concealed for decades by highways, buildings, etc.; now, revitalized with 33 parks and even beach.
Valle de Los Caidos – Carretera de Guadarrama (in Guadarrama Mountains); 011-34-918-905-411; valledeloscaidos.es; extraordinary monument dedicated to Spanish Civil War’s fallen, as well as (oddly) Franco’s tomb.

Centro Cultural Conde Duque – 11 Conde Duque; 011-34-91-588-5834; munimadrid.es/condeduque; houses 2 free museums, auditorium, city archives, and various libraries.

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