LISBON

(includes Beja)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Bica do Sapato – Avenida Infante Dom Henrique (Santa Apolonia, Warehouse B); 011-351-21-881-0320; bicadosapato.com; ice cream.
●Cafe A Brasileira – 120 Rua Garrett (Sacramento); 011-351-21-346-9541; Lisbon’s oldest and most loved café; opulent and old world, originally opened in 1905; Art Deco style; artists’, poets’, and writers’ favored haunt; mirrors run along walls and huge oak bar; beautiful ceiling with huge chandeliers; wooden booths inside or tables outside with huge orange umbrellas; Bica (small strong black coffee like espresso) invented here; have picture taken in front of Fernando Pessoa bronze, relaxing just outside cafe (small chair incorporated into sculpture where can sit pretending to be deep in conversation with great man); variety snacks; fabulous pasteis de nata; try galao(tall milky coffee served in glass).
●Cafe Nicola – 24-25 Praça Dom Pedro (Baixo); 011-351-21-347-7925; nicola.pt; art deco cafe; for coffee.
●Fabrico Infinito – 74 Rua Dom Pedro V (Principe Real); 011-351-21-246-7629; fabricoinfinito.wordpress.com; concept store and tea-room.
●Landeau – 103 Rua Rodrigues de Faria (Alcantara, at LX Factory); 011-351-91-727-8939; landeau.pt; snack location that only sells chocolate cake.
●Orpheu Caffe – 5A Praca do Principe Real (Principe Real); 011-351-21-804-4499; orpheucaffe.com; afternoon café hangout where artists and musicians lounge in vintage armchairs; brunch-bar.
●Pasteis de Belem – 84-92 Rua de Belem (Belem); 011-351-21-363-7423; pasteisdebelem.pt; 171 year-old bakery on Lisbon’s western edge; flakiest custard pastries in Lisbon; must have Pasteis de Nata.
●Pastelaria Aloma – 67 Rua Francisco Metrass (Campo de Ourique); 011-351-21-396-3797; facebook.com/Pastelaria.Aloma; among Lisbon’s oldest bakeries; has won best Pastel de Nata 2 years running.
●Pastelaria-Padaria Sao Roque Café – 57 Rua Dom Pedro V (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-322-4356; old bakery, open for breakfast, with curved Art Deco-tiled bar that offers pastries like coconut-topped pao de dues.
●Varanda – 88 Rua Rodrigo de Fonseca (Alfama, at Four Seasons Ritz); 011-351-21-381-1400; fourseasons.com/lisbon/dining; stunning view; afternoon tea.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Arte & Vinhos – 63 Rua Dom Pedro V (Principe Real); 011-351-21-347-3153; vintage furnishings and fine wine at this pint-sized bar.
●Bairro Alto Hotel – 2 Praca Luis de Camoes (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-340-8220; bairroaltohotel.com; sleek boutique in city heart; excellent rooftop bar.
●Cafe A Brasileira – 120 Rua Garrett (Sacramento); 011-351-21-346-9541; Lisbon’s oldest and most loved café; opulent and old world, originally opened in 1905; Art Deco style; artists’, poets’, and writers’ favored haunt; mirrors run along walls and huge oak bar; beautiful ceiling with huge chandeliers; wooden booths inside or tables outside with huge orange umbrellas.
●Cafe Nicola – 24-25 Praça Dom Pedro (Baixo); 011-351-21-347-7925; nicola.pt; art deco cafe.
●Le Chat – Jardim 9^th de Abril (Santos-o-Velho, across from Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga); 011-351-91-779-7155; lechat-lisboa.com; elegant but softly glowing glass box of bar; suggests long aquarium in which “boozefish swim on Porto Flip cocktail tides”; Porto Flip cocktail is ruby port wine, brandy, egg yolk, and nutmeg; DJ-spun house music; hillside views over Tagus.
●Cinco Lounge – 17-A Rua Ruben A. Leitão (Principe Real); 011-351-21-342-4033; cincolounge.com; 40-page drink list.
●Clube de Fado – 94 Rua de Sao João da Praça (Alfama); 011-351-21-885-2704; clube-de-fado.com; regularly showcases these sung laments; run by Mário Pacheco, Portuguese guitar master; restaurant serves crowd-pleasing Portuguese dishes like salted bacalhau.
●Fabrica Braco de Prata – 1 Rua da Fabrica do Material de Guerra (Bairro Alto); 011-351-96-735-4817; bracodeprata.net; old weapons factory now a bar, restaurant, and bookstore.
●Fontana Bar – 2 Rua Engenheiro Vieira da Silva (Baixa-Chiado, at Fontana Park Hotel); 011-351-21-041-0600; fontanapark-hotel.com; excellent caipirinhas.
●A Ginjinha – 8 Largo de Sao Domingos (Baixa); 011-351-21-886-2449; ginjinha or, simply, ginja, is liqueur (sort of cherry brandy) made by infusing ginja (sour cherry) berries (Prunus cerasus austera, Morello cherry) in alcohol (aguardente is used) and adding sugar together with other ingredients; served in shot form with fruit piece in cup bottom; this is considered “must visit.”
●Hot Clube de Portugal – 39 Praca da Alegria (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-346-7369; hcp.pt; in short-haul, propeller flight days, American jazz musicians traveling to perform in Europe had to stop in Lisbon (would come here to perform); sets are at 11:00 p.m. and 12:30 a.m.
●B. Leza – 50 Largo do Conde Barão (Santos); 011-351-396-3735; blogdibleza.blogspot.fr; African nightclub.
●LuxFrágil – 73 Avenida Infante Dom Henrique (Santa Apolonia, Warehouse A); 011-351-21-882-0890; luxfragil.com; club co-owned by actor John Malkovich; terrace has great Tagus River views.
●Music Box – 24 Rua Nova de Carvalho (Cais do Sodre); 011-351-21-347-3188; musicboxlisboa.com; cavern-like nightclub under bride in Cais do Sodre district; doesn’t start happening till after 2 am.
●Orpheu Caffe – 5A Praca do Principe Real (Principe Real); 011-351-21-804-4499; orpheucaffe.com; afternoon café hangout where artists and musicians lounge in vintage armchairs; brunch-bar.
●Pavilhao Chines – 89 Rua Dom Pedro V (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-342-4729; barpavilhaochines.blogspot.com; small gold sign and bell, which you have to ring to enter; café-bar; former grocery store and woodworking shop.
●Pensao Amor – 19 Rua do Alecrim (Cais do Sodre); 011-351-21-314-3399; facebook.com/pensaoamor.
●Ritz Bar – 88 Rua Rodrigo de Fonseca (Alfama, at Four Seasons Ritz); 011-351-21-381-1400; fourseasons.com/lisbon/dining.
●Senhor Vinho – Rua do Meio á Lapa Madragoa (Lapa); 011-351-21-397-2681, 011-351-21-395-5830, or 011-351-21-397-7456; srvinho.com; small welcoming place for 1^st-rate fadistas; even legendary Mariza has performed here.
●Silk – 14 Rua da Misericordia (Chiado, at Espaço Chiado); 011-351-91-300-9193; silk-club.com; panoramic view from ceiling-floor windows and candle-lit outdoor tables.
●Sol e Pesca – 44 Rua Nova do Carvalho (Cais do Sodre); 011-351-21-346-7203; fishing tackle covers walls; beer hall atmosphere.
●Taberna da Rosa – 17 Avenida General Moutinho (Trafaria, Almada); 011-351-21-294-4387; just outside Lisbon, in suburb.
●Trumps – 104B Rua da Imprensa Nacional (Principe Real); 011-351-21-395-1135; trumps.pt; lively gay club with 2 dance floors and drag shows.



HOTELS
●Altis Avenida Hotel – 120 Rua 1^st de Dezembro Praca dos Restauradores (Baixa); 011-351-21-044-0000; altishotels.com; affordable; in grand, art deco building; attentive staff, eager to fulfill all requests (e.g., hard to book restaurant reservations, outings to city’s best craft shops); 68 rooms and 2 suites.
●Bairro Alto Hotel – 2 Praca Luis de Camoes (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-340-8288; bairroaltohotel.com; sleek boutique in city heart; excellent rooftop bar.
●CS Vintage Lisboa – 2 Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-040-5400; csvintagelisboahotel.com; new hotel housed in 19^th Century building; 56 rooms.
●Fontana Park – 2 Rua Engenheiro Vieira da Silva (Baixa-Chiado); 011-351-21-041-0600; fontanapark-hotel.com; sleek, modern, luxurious; try to get 7^th floor room (private terrace, Lisbon view).
●Four Seasons Ritz – 88 Rua Rodrigo de Fonseca (Alfama); 011-351-21-383-2020 or 800-819-5053; fourseasons.com; old-style European, hillside hotel overlooking Eduardo VII Park; lovely spa and restaurant.
●Heritage Avenida Liberdade Hotel – 28 Avenida da Liberdade (Baixa); 011-351-21-340-4040; heritageavliberdade.com; luxuriously Lusitanian appearance for 42-room hotel that overlooks sculpture studded Avenida Liberdade; elevator has stone mosaic floor; rooms are larger and quieter than average; charming mezzanine library; April-May best; ask for 6^th floor rooms (60-63), which are quietest and have best views.
●Hotel da Estrela – 35 Rua Saraiva de Carvalho (Campo de Ourique); 011-351-21-190-0100; hoteldaestrela.com/en; sun-filled private garden; member Small Luxury Hotels group; peaceful bolthole that was once Paraty Counts’ palace; thoroughly renovated; 19 rooms & suites, restaurant & bar; near Cathedral & city center.
●Inspira Santa Marta Hotel – 48 Rua de Santa Marta (Principe Real); 011-351-21-440-900; inspirasantamartahotel.com; 89 Scandinavian-cool designed rooms; bar, spa, and restaurant.
●As Janelas Verdes – 47 Rua das Janelas (Lapa); 011-351-21-396-8143; asjanelasverdes.com; 4 stars; former home of Eca de Quieroz; near National Ancient Art Museum.
●Jeronimos 8 Hotel – 8 Rua dos Jeronimos (Belem); 011-351-21-360-0900; almeidahotels.com; across street from Jeronimos Monastery, UNESCO World Heritage Site; near Pasteis de Belem bakery (famous).
●Lapa Palace – 4 Rua do Pau de Bandeira (Lapa); 011-351-21-394-9494; olissippohotels.com; hike from town but worth it; aristocratic former residence on Tagus River.
●LX Boutique Hotel – 12 Rua do Alecrim (Cais do Sodre); 011-351-21-347-4394; lxboutiquehotel.pt; affordable; originally Hotel Braganca; each of 5 floors dedicated to specific aspect Lisbon culture: fado music, Fernando Pessoa’s poetry, and Tagus River history (for example).
●Palácio Belmonte – 14 Pátio Dom Fradique (Alfama); 011-351-21-881-6600; palaciobelmonte.com; Lisbon’s oldest palace, within medieval São Jorge castle’s fortress walls; best views in city (over terracotta roof-tops of Lisbon’s ancient quarters onto Atlantic); intimate 10-suite palace; drawing rooms are lined with original 18^th Century azulejo tiles & period oil-paintings; orange tree-shaded black marble swimming pool; best room is 3-story Bartolomeu Gusmao suite where winding staircase – which once led to minaret in former Moorish incarnation – leads up to private rooftop terrace; no restaurant but room-service breakfast is served each morning & capable kitchen can fix up almost anything, within reason, to order.
●Pestana Palace Hotel – 54 Rua Jau (Alto de Santo Amaro); 011-351-21-361-5600; hotelpestanapalace.com; elegant, 18^th Century sitting rooms; stained glass chapel; lush gardens (think Hotel Bel Air); and indoor & outdoor swimming pools; ask for Junior Suite with private terrace on 2^nd floor.
●Solar do Castelo – 2 Rua das Cozinhas (Alfama); 011-351-21-880-6050; solardocastelo.com; romantic boutique hotel within St. George’s Castle walls.
●Solar dos Mouros – 6 Rua do Milagre de Santo-Antonio (Alfama); 011-351-218-854-940; solardosmouros.com; 5-star city views at 1 star prices; 13 rooms, lovingly furnished; comes with breakfast.
●York House – 32 Rua das Janelas Verdes (Janelas Verdes); 011-351-21-396-2435; yorkhouselisboa.com; 17^th Century mansion redone in 2004; Graham Greene and John Le Carre have stayed here; in Santos district; excellent choice for furniture and home décor afficianados.



RESTAURANTS
●Alma – 92-94 Calcada do Marques de Abrantes (Santos); 011-351-21-396-3527; alma.co.pt; clean, white-dominated décor; chef hosts Portuguese cooking show; try pork confit with bok choy and orange sauce.
●Assinatura – 19 Rua Vale do Pereiro (Principe Real); 011-351-21-386-7696; assinatura.com.pt; set table hangs upside down from ceiling; excellent desserts.
●Atira-Te Ao Rio – 69-70 Cais do Ginjal (Almada); 011-351-21-275-1380; atirateaorio.pt; riverfront, rustic, white-washed; perfect place for glass of wine at sunset.
●Belcanto – 10 Largo de Sao Carlos (Chiado); 011-351-21-342-0607; joseavillez.pt; molecular cuisine; among city’s finest and most innovative restaurants.
●Bico do Sapato – 1900-436 Avenida Infante Dom Henrique Armazém B (Cais da Pedra, Santa Apolónia); 011-351-21-881-0320; bicadosapato.com; fancy; part-owned by John Malkovich; uberhip dockside venue; all glass walls, artful lighting & airy river views; upstairs, scenesters nibble on sashimi in minimalist sushi bar, while downstairs design-conscious restaurant serves highlights such as roasted meats, mushroom risotto & oven-baked fish; open-air patio cafe facing river with several other restaurant-cafes next door.
●Bonsai – 2 Rua Engenheiro Vieira da Silva (Baixa-Chiado, at Fontana Park Hotel); 011-351-21-041-0600; fontanapark-hotel.com; Japanese food.
●Bota Alta – 35-37 Travessa da Queimada (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-342-7959; restaurantesemportugal.org; wood-paneled tavern is among Bairro Alto’s oldest & most favored (lines outside by 8 pm); little space between tables; menu strongest on traditional Portuguese dishes, e.g., bacalhau à bras (shredded, with onions & matchstick fried potatoes in scrambled egg), carne de porco à Alentajana (pork with clams), steaks in wine sauce, or grilled fish; house wine comes in ceramic jugs & is very good.
●Cafe A Brasileira – 120 Rua Garrett (Sacramento); 011-351-21-346-9541; Lisbon’s oldest and most loved café; opulent and old world, originally opened in 1905; Art Deco style; artists’, poets’, and writers’ favored haunt; mirrors run along walls and huge oak bar; beautiful ceiling with huge chandeliers; wooden booths inside or tables outside with huge orange umbrellas.
●Cafe Nicola – 24-25 Praça Dom Pedro (Baixo); 011-351-21-347-7925; nicola.pt; art deco cafe.
●Cantina da Estrela – 35 Rua Saraiva de Carvalho (Campo de Ourique, at Hotel da Estrela); 011-351-21-190-0100; hoteldaestrela.com/en/cantina.html; for lunch, eat picnic-style in sun-filled private garden.
●Cantinho do Alvillez – 7 Rua Duques de Braganca (Chiado); 011-351-21-199-2369; joseavillez.pt; by Belcanto owner; more casual, Portuguese bistro.
●O Cantinho do Bem Estar – 46 Rua do Norte (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-346-4265; overbright hole-in-wall with dowdy tiles; outstanding seafood.
●Casa do Alentejo – 58 Rua Portas Santo Antao (Baixa); 011-351-21-340-5140; casadoalentejo.pt; few minutes walk from Rossio Square; hidden behind small door on popular tourist street; step into Moorish palace with impressive courtyard; traditional Portuguese food.
●Cervejaria da Esquina – 56 Rua Correia Teles (Campo de Ourique); 011-351-21-387-4644; cervejariadaesquina.com; by Vitor Sobral, of Tasca da Esquina fame; seafood in modern, sleek environment, in upscale neighborhood.
●Cervejaria Ramiro – 1 Avenida Almirante Reis (Anjos); 011-351-21-885-1024; down at heels in appearance but extremely popular; sells fish by weight.
●Chafariz do Vinho – Rua da Mae d’Agua (Bairro Alto, at Praca da Alegria); 011-351-21-342-2079; chafarizdovinho.com; 18^th Century stone aquaduct transformed into wine bar; small, tapas-type dishes.
●Deli Deluxe – Avenida Infante Dom Henrique (Santa Apolonia, Warehouse B); 011-351-21-886-2070; delidelux.pt; lunch.
●Eleven – Rua Marques de Fronteira (Principe Real, at Jardim Amalia Rodrigues); 011-351-21-386-2211; restauranteleven.com; flashy, Portuguese-modern dishes.
●Fabrica Braco de Prata – 1 Rua da Fabrica do Material de Guerra (Bairro Alto); 011-351-96-735-4817; bracodeprata.net; old weapons factory now a bar, restaurant, and bookstore.
●Restaurante Flores – 2 Praça Luís de Camões (Bairro Alto, in Bairro Alto Hotel); 011-351-21-340-8252; bairroaltohotel.com; Mediterranean-Portuguese; try black grouper stuffed with peppers and chorizo, accompanied by crisp Alentejo white wine, such as Pêra-Manca; passion-fruit bavaroise (chilled custard drizzled with caramelized milk) for dessert.
●Hamburgueria da Parada – Jardim Teofilo de Braga (Campo de Ourique, also called Jardim da Prada, in front of 26 Rua 4 de Infantaria); 011-351-21-387-9392 or 011-351-93-432-3418; facebook.com/QuiosqueDeCampoDeOuriqueHamburgueriaDaParada; hamburger joint with high-quality ground beef options and unusual toppings.
●Largo – 10A Rua Serpa Pinto (Chiado); 011-351-21-347-7225; largo.pt; stylish; nationally prominent chef; décor better than food.
●Manifesto – 9C Largo de Santos (Santos); 011-351-21-396-3419; restaurantemanifesto.com; chef trained by Bocuse and Robuchon; tiny, bite-sized portions.
●Merca Tudo – 4 Rua do Merca-Tudo (Santos, near Largo Conde Barão); 011-351-21-396-9368; hidden in narrow street, in historical building decorated with original azulejos; popular with actors and artists; soft background music like French chansons or jazz; traditional Portuguese cooking, as well as French, Mexican, and Moroccan dishes; owner Guiomar Noronha is half Spanish (her great-grand mother was Fidel and Raoul Castros’ mom; for dessert, must try Bolo Árabe (with almonds & pumpkin); try going to B. Leza for live African music afterwards.
●Olivier Avenida – 7 Rua Julio Cesar Machado (Baixa, at Hotel Tivoli Jardim); 011-351-21-317-4105; restaurante-olivier.com; international-Portuguese hybrid food.
●100 Maneiras – 35 Rua do Teixeira (Santos); 011-351-91-030-7575; restaurante100maneiras.com; Portuguese and Yugoslavian cuisine.
●Orpheu Caffe – Praca do Principe Real 5A (Principe Real); 011-351-21-804-4499; orpheucaffe.com; afternoon café hangout where artists and musicians lounge in vintage armchairs; brunch-bar.
●Pap’Açorda – 57 Rua da Atalaia (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-346-4811; papacorda.pai.pt; opened 1981; fashionable place for traditional Portuguese food; 1^st collaboration of noted Lisbon restauranteurs José Miranda & Fernando Fernandes (also co-owners of the enormously successful Bica da Sapato); name taken from one of Portugal’s favorite dishes, Açorda (shellfish stew thickened with bread & seasoned with garlic and coriander), so try Açorda Real, made with lobster and shrimp; do not miss chocolate mousse, served at your table fromhuge kitchen bowl; extensive wine list.
●Pedro E O Lobo – 169 Rua do Salitre (Principe Real); 011-351-21-193-3719; pedroeolobo.pt; within former art gallery.
●Quiosque de Refresco – Praça de São Paulo (Chiado, kiosk; many other locations); 011-351-21-395-8329; facebook.com/quiosquederefresco; fresh juices.
●Restaurante 560 – 78 Rua das Gaveas (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-346-8317; restaurante560.com; for foodie gentleman; appetizers include honey-drizzled phyllo pastry filled with creamy farinheira (black pork sausage); entrees include duck confit with Madeira sauce and grilled swordfish with sliced bananas.
●Royale Café – 29 Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro (Sacramento); 011-351-21-346-9125; royalecafe.com; in chic Chiado area; good salads.
●Sea Me – 21 Rua do Loreto (Chiado); 011-351-21-346-1564; peixariamoderna.com; Asian-tinged tapas-like dishes.
●Senhor Vinho – Rua do Meio á Lapa Madragoa (Lapa); 011-351-21-397-2681, 011-351-21-395-5830, or 011-351-21-397-7456; srvinho.com; small welcoming place for 1^st-rate fadistas; even legendary Mariza has performed here.
●Solar Dos Presuntos – 150 Rua Portas de Santo Antão (São José); 011-351-21-342-4253; solardospresuntos.com; one of few restaurants open Mondays; classic Portuguese cuisine; longest lines in city.
●Tasca da Esquina – 41C Rua Domingos Sequeira (Lapa); 011-351-21-099-3939; tascadaesquina.com; cheerful décor (red concrete floor, unadorned white walls, big windows, young servers); menu of medium and small plates intended for sharing; pig-tails in coriander, sautéed quail legs (in buttery garlic-lemon sauce); try Abbot Priscos for dessert (lush, port wine pudding).
●Taberna da Rosa – 17 Avenida General Moutinho (Trafaria, Almada); 011-351-21-294-4387; just outside Lisbon, in suburb; grilled fish.
●Restaurante Tavares – 37 Rua da Misericordia (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-342-1112; restaurantetavares.net; gilt, heavy mirror, and stucco cavern opened in 1784; Lisbon’s oldest restaurant; impressive decor, though, is early-20^th Century; new French chef at helm garnered Michelin star in 2010.
●Sea Me Peixaria Moderna – 21 Rua do Loreto (Chiado); 011-351-21-346-1564; peixariamoderna.com; sushi.
●Terreiro Do Paco – Praca de Comercio (Baixa); 011-351-21-031-2850; terreirodopaco.net; major chef; try salt-cod carpaccio and Azores tuna with mango-tomato-fig compote.
●1300 Taberna – 103 Rua Rodrigues Faria (Alcantara); 011-351-21-364-9170; 1300taberna.com; innovative; striking decor.
●Varanda – 88 Rua Rodrigo de Fonseca (Alfama, at Four Seasons Ritz); 011-351-21-381-1400; fourseasons.com/lisbon/dining; stunning view and excellent fare.



SERVICES
●Cais do Sodre Ferry Terminal – Cais do Sodre; 011-351-80-820-3050; soflusa.pt; regular cross-Tagus River service to Cacilhas (20 minutes); Atira-Te Ao Rio Restaurant is 10 minute walk to right (upon disembarking) along thin, waterfront path.
●Driver – Jose Joaquim de Sousa Oliveira; 011-351-9-6400-1417; oliveirajjs@hotmail.com; driver guide with good English.
●Embaixada Concept Store – 26 Praça do Príncipe Real (Príncipe Real); 011-351-965-309-154; facebook.com/Embaixada; occupies newly converted 19^th Century palace; organic spa.
●La Spa – 177-A Avenida da Liberdade (Baixa-Chiado, at Lanidor Department Store); 011-351-21-314-4551; lanidor.com/la-spa; collaboration with Shiseido; 2-hour Qi technique massage involves both shiatsu and hot towels.
●Rent Local Friend – Rua da Palmeira (Principe Real); 011-351-96-681-7762; rentalocalfriend.com; tour operator; you describe experience you want and they tailor itinerary to your needs; then you opt for either “Friend for Day” (guide who accompanies you) or personalized booklet.



SHOPPING
●Arquitectonica Emporio Casa – 65 Rua Dom Pedro V (Principe Real); 011-351-21-096-4093; arquitectonica.pt; tall Spanish candles, smooth Italian vases, Brazilian electronic music, and Portugalo-brand items.
●Arte & Vinhos – 63 Rua Dom Pedro V (Principe Real); 011-351-21-347-3153; antiques.
●Bazar B – Rua Dom Pedro V 65 (Principe Real); 011-351-21-096-4093; arquitectonica.pt; tall Spanish candles, smooth Italian vases, Brazilian electronic music, and Portugalo-brand items.
●Casa Pélys – 62C Rua Tomas da Anunciaçao; 011-351-21-388-7408; facebook.com/casa.pelys; vintage store whose stock reaches deep into earlier 20^th Century.
●Caza das Velas do Loreto – 53-55 Rua do Loreto (Baixa-Chiado); 011-351-21-342-5387; cazavellasloreto.com/pt; candle-making shop started in 1789.
●Claudio Corallo Cacau & Café – 85 Rua Cecilo da Sousa (São Mamede); 011-351-21-386-2158; claudiocorallo.com; chocolate boutique.
●Conserveira de Lisboa – 34 Rua dos Bacalhoeiros (Baixa); 011-351-21-886-4009; conserveiradelisboa.pt/en; preserved fish store from 1930; wooden shelves piled high with tinned fish; mosaic floor and wooden cash register.
●Del Rio – 133-135 Rua Dom Pedro V (Principe Real); 011-351-21-346-7297; spottedbylocals.com/lisbon/del-rio; Brazilian clothing.
●Embaixada Concept Store – 26 Praça do Príncipe Real (Príncipe Real); 011-351-965-309-154; facebook.com/Embaixada; occupies newly converted 19^th Century palace, with 2 floors given over to different and largely inexpensive shops for accessories, clothing & homewares.
●Espaco B – 120 Rua Dom Pedro V (Principe Real); 011-351-21-346-1210; espaco-b.com; minimalist clothing boutique; accessories and jewelry, too.
●Fabrico Infinito – 74 Rua Dom Pedro V (Principe Real); 011-351-21-246-7629; fabricoinfinito.wordpress.com; old weapons factory now bar, restaurant, and bookstore; sells edgy lighting, unusual sculpture, and other contemporary European and Portuguese creations.
●Fatima Lopes – 49 Rua da Atalaia (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-324-0540; fatima-lopes.com; colorful and streamlined outfits for men and women.
●Garrafeira Nacional – 18-24 Rua de Santa Justa (Baixa); 011-351-21-887-9080; garrafeiranacional.com; wine shop featuring products from Doura valley.
●Cristina Guerra – 33 Rua Santo Antonio a Estrela (Estrela); 011-351-21-396-7110; cristinaguerra.com; art.
●Galeria Jorge Shirley – 21-23 Rua da Escola Politecna (Principe Real); 011-351-21-386-8497; jorgeshirley.com; among city’s most respected art spaces.
●Jangada Solta – 73 Rua da Rosa; 011-351-21-346-3138 (Principe Real); jangadasolta.com; offbeat handicrafts from South Africa and Brazil, among other places.
●Kolovrat 79 – 79 Rua Dom Pedro V (Principe Real); 011-351-21-387-4536; lidijakolovrat.org; showcases Lidija Kolovrat’s work, including delicate web-like silver necklaces, scarves, etc.
●Ler – 103 Rua Rodrigues de Faria (Alcantara, at LX Factory); 011-351-21-325-9992; lerdevagar.com; new and used books in both English and Portuguese; in hangarlike space filled with old printing machines.
●Loja do Chiado – 102 Rua da Misericordia (Chiado); 011-351-21-347-2293; facebook.com/pages/We-Three-Loja-do-Chiado/192163044151086; showcases 3 “indie” Portuguese brands – Catarina Martins (elegant leather footwear), TMCollection (richly embroidered Asian-inspired fashions), and Muu (cowskin accessories and handbags).
●Loja do Descobrimentos – 12 Rus dos Bacalhoeiros (Alfama); 011-351-21-886-5563; loja-descobrimentos.com; hand-painted tiles.
●Galeria Luis Serpa Projectos – 1B Rua Tenente Raul Cascais (Baixa); 011-351-21-397-7794; galerialuisserpaprojectos.blogspot.com; art.
●Leitão & Irmão – 8-14 Travessa da Espera (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-342-4107; leitao-irmao.com; silver jewelry.
●Luvaria Ulisses – 87-A Rua do Carmo (Sacramento); 011-351-21-342-0295; luvariaulisses.com; old school glove-maker.
●Eduardo Martinho Alfarrabista – Mercado do Campo de Santa Clara, Loja 3; 011-351-21-419-1873; eduardomartinho.pt; rare books & lithographs.
●Organii – 103 Rua Rodrigues de Faria (Alcantara, at LX Factory); 011-351-21-099-9763; organii.pt; organic Myeko (Portuguese brand) cosmetics; also, other international cult labels.
●Sidecar Touring Co. – 011-351-96-396-5105; sidecartouring.co.pt; very highly recommended (by Four Seasons hotel, among others).
●Solar – 68-70 Rua Dom Pedro V (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-346-5552; solar.com.pt; tiles from 15^th-19^th Centuries.
●Storytailors – 8 Calcada do Ferragial (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-343-2306; storytailors.pt; flamboyant retro-bizarre clothes.
●A Vida Portuguesa – 11 Rua Anchieta (Baixa-Chiado); 011-351-21-346-5073; avidaportuguesa.com; classic Portuguese products and design items, from hair tonics to cool ceramics.
●A Vida Portuguesa – 23 Largo do Intendente Pina Manique (Mouraria); 011-351-21-197-4512; avidaportuguesa.com; classic Portuguese products and design items, from hair tonics to cool ceramics.
●Vista Alegre – 20-23 Largo do Chiado (Baixa-Chiado); 011-351-21-346-1401; myvistaalegre.com; crystal & porcelain since 1824.



SIGHTS & SITES
●Barrio Alto Quarter – golisbon.com/sight-seeing/bairroalto.html; historic, hilly, cobblestoned district; art galleries and boutiques; local shops give away ConVida’s bilingual guide.
●Berardo Collection Museum – Praca do Imperio (Belem); 011-351-21-361-2878; museuberardo.pt; world-class international contemporary & modern art.
●Calouste Gulbenkian Museum – 45A Avenida de Berna (São Sebastião); 011-351-21-782-3000; museu.gulbenkian.pt; among Europe’s most impressive art collections, with objects ranging from ancient Egyptian bas-reliefs to modern paintings.
●Carmo Convent – 44 Calçada do Carmo (Sacramento, at Largo do Carmo); 011-351-21-347-8629 or 011-351-21-346-0473; sacred-destinations.com/portugal/lisbon-convento-do-carmo; part-ruined medieval convent now used as Museu Arqueologico do Carmo, collection ranging from prehistoric to medieval artefacts; built in 1389; devastated by 1755 earthquake.
●Casa das Historias – 300 Avenida da Republica (Cascais, in Oceanside); 011-351-21-482-697; casadashistorias.com; showcases Paula Rego’s and her late husband, British painter Victor Willing’s work; fortress-like, red building; take train from Cais do Sodre station (cp.pt).
●Castelo de Sao Jorge – Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo (Alfama, at Largo do Chao da Feira); 011-351-21-880-0620; castelodesaojorge.pt; medieval-moorish castle overlooking Lisbon and Tagus River (Portuguese, Rio Tejo).
●Douro Valley – portugal.com/travel/portugal/douro_wine_tour; Portugal’s answer to Bordeaux or Napa.
●Eduardo VII Park – Marquês de Pombal Square (Baixa, stretches up to belvedere at hill top with fine views); golisbon.com/sight-seeing/edward-park.html; big attractions are 2 estufas, hothouse (with more exotic plants) & greenhouse (Estufa Fria, filled with tropical plants, ponds, and endless cacti and palm varieties; opposite estufas (on park’s eastern side) sits ornately tiled sports pavillion dedicated to Carlos Lopes, Portuguese athlete who won Los Angeles Olympic Games’ marathon; park itself dedicated to England’s Edward VII.
●Elevador de Santa Justa – 103 Rua de Santa Justa (Sacramento-Santa Justa); 011-351-21-413-8679; bellalisaelevador.com; only remaining vertical lift; must see.
●Feira da Ladra – Campo de Santa Clara (Alfama); golisbon.com/sight-seeing/feira-da-ladra.html; flea market with best linens prices; look for Maria Cilia Narciso.
●Igreja de Sao Roque (Jesuit Sao Roque Church) – Largo Trindade Coelho (Bairro Alto); 011-351-21-323-5000; scml.pt/default.asp?site=scml; earliest Jesuit church in Portuguese world; among few buildings to survive 1755 Earthquake relatively unscathed; most notable chapel is 18^th Century St. John Baptist Chapel (Capela de Sao Joao Baptista), project by Nicola Salvi and Luigi Vanvitelli, constructed in Rome of many precious stones and disassembled, shipped, and reconstructed in Sao Roque.
●Jardim Botanico da Lisbon – 56-58 Rua Escola Politecnica (Rato); 011-351-21-392-1800; mnhnc.ulisboa.pt; 1^st laid out in 1874; hidden behind Museu de História Natural, about 1 mile north of Bairro Alto; 10 acres benches, paths & nearly 15K subtropical plant species.
●Jardim Zoologico – Praca Marechal Humberto (São Sebastião, 158-160 Estrada de Benfica); 011-351-21-723-2900 or 011-351-21-723-2920; zoo.pt/opening.aspx; dolphin shows.
●Jeronimos Monastery – Praça do Imperio (Belem); 011-351-21-362-0034; mosteirojeronimos.pt; UNESCO World Heritage Site; funded by treasures from explorations in Africa, Asia, and South America, as well as stiff tax on Portuguese-controlled spice trade with Africa and East; Order of St. Jerome (Hieronymites or dos Jeronimos) known for contemplative spirituality and productive intellectual output; contains Portuguese royalty tombs, as well as many important Portuguese history figures, e.g.,Vasco de Gama, romantic poet Herculano, and poet Fernando Pessoa; nearby Tower of Belem; also houses Lisbon National Archaeology and Lisbon Maritime Museums.
●Lisbon Cathedral – Largo da Sé (Alfama); 011-351-21-887-6628 or 011-351-21-886-6752; sacred-destinations.com/portugal/lisbon-cathedral; among city’s oldest structures, dating to 12^th Century.
●Lisbon National Pantheon – Campo de Santa Clara (Alfama); 011-351-21-885-4820; golisbon.com/sight-seeing/pantheon.html; built between 17^th and 20^th Centuries; former church now resting place for national figures.
●LX Factory – 103 Rua Rodrigues de Faria (Alcantara); 011-351-21-314-3399; lxfactory.com; disused manufacturing complex that now houses architectural firms, boutiques, cozy cafes, and internet start-ups.
●Miradouro de Santa Caterina – Rua de Santa Catarina (Santa Catarina); 011-351-21-391-2300; golisbon.com/sight-seeing/santa-catarina.html; miradouro means “viewpoint”; garden with terrace offering Tagus River view; faces 25^th de Abril Bridge and stone “Adamastor” (mythical sea monster from epic poem Lusiads) statue; also pleasant café where locals go to admire dawn view over Tagus River.
●Mude – 24 Rua Augusta (Principe Real); 011-351-21-888-6117; mude.pt; furniture and sartorial artefacts; former bank converted into design and fashion museum.
●Museum of Pharmacy – 1 Rua Marechal Saldanha (Santa Catarina); 011-351-21-340-0600; muselia.com/lisbon/pharmacy-museum/3394; yellow mansion houses collection that presents pharmacy’s historic evolution and technology through instruments, old flasks, and other pharmaceutical paraphernalia.
●Museu do Azulejo – 4 Rua da Madre de Deus (Alfama); 011-351-21-810-0340; mnazulejo.imc-ip.pt; famous blue tiles.
●Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga – 17 Rua das Janelas Verdes (Santos-o-Velho); 011-351-21-391-2800; mnarteantiga-ipmuseus.pt; houses Portugal’s greatest painting collection, occupying 2 connected buildings (17^th Century palace and edifice); notable paintings include polyptych from St. Vincent’s monastery attributed to Nuno Gonçalves (1460-1470), Hieronymus Bosch’s triptych Temptation of St. Anthony, Hans Memling’s Mother and Child, Albrecht Durer’s St. Jerome, and 12 Apostles by Zurbarán; also paintings by Courbet, Poussin, and Velázquez; also exhibits remarkable gold- and silversmiths’ works, both foreign and Portuguese, including cross from Alcobaça and monstrance of Belém, constructed with 1^st gold brought from India by Vasco da Gama.
●Museu Nacional de Arqueologia – Praca do Imperio (Belem); 011-351-21-362-0000; mnarqueologia-ipmuseus.pt; trove of Egyptian, Greek, Moorish, and Roman artifacts.
●Museu do Oriente – Avenida Brasilia (Alcantara); 011-351-21-358-5200; museudooriente.pt; free Friday evenings.
●Rossio (Pedro IV) Square – Baixa; city’s liveliest square; several atmospheric cafes with outdoor sitting (most popular is art deco Café Nicola on western side); on either side 2 baroque fountains; in center is monument to Dom Pedro IV; in 19^th Century square paved with cobblestones in wave patterns; on square’s north side is Dona Maria II National Theater, monumental neoclassical building built in 1840s, portico of which has 6 Ionic columns (originally from Church of St. Francis, destroyed in 1755 earthquake).
●Rua Augusta Arch – Rua Augustua (Baixa, at Praça do Comércio); stone triumphal building, built to commemorate city’s reconstruction after 1755 earthquake; parallel to Rua Augusta is Rua dos Correeiros, where there is small Roman bath section beneath Millenium BCP Bank.
●Sao Cucufate Roman Villa – N258 (Beja, at Vila de Frades); 011-351-28-444-1612.
●Torre de Belem – Avenida da India (Belem); 011-351-21-362-0034; mosteirojeronimos.pt; built in 1515 to guard harbor entrance; UNESCO World Heritage monument.