Saturday, July 16, 2011

LIMA

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Ana Avellana Pastelería – 1096 Calle Gral Mendiburu (Miraflores); 011-51-960-622-884; facebook.com/anaavellanalima; jolly, light-blue exterior invites you inside to enjoy savory & sweet creations, such as dense, flourless chocolate cake or luscious Borgoña grape pie; have along with mug of Americano as you sit on cushy sofa; herby goat-cheese tarts & rustic quinoa-bread sandwiches filled with roast beef or turkey satisfy savory cravings.
Beso Francés Crepería – 131 Malecón de la Reserva (Miraflores); 011-51-1-717-8949; besofrances.pe/#!home; offers savory & sweet crepes; quaint shop is perfect stop while bike riding or walking along coastal pathway; grab coffee & crepe filled with fudge or gooey cheese & roast beef & sit at one small outdoor table looking over Pacific Ocean.
Blu Gelateria – 28 De Julio 202 (Barranco); 011-51-1-247-3791; barrancoguide.com/in/blu/?lang=en; creamy, dense chocolate, bright herbs, Madagascar vanilla or tart jungle fruit: this is Lima’s best gelato, made fresh daily.
Dédalo Arte y Artesania – 295 Calle Saenz Pena (Barranco); 011-51-1-652-5400; facebook.com/dedalo.arte; Barranco institution visited by Hollywood stars & passing dignitaries looking for modern Peru souvenirs; concept is contemporary, urban in design; unique collections & pieces by Peruvian designers showcased in beautifully restored, colonial house on quiet street next to Barranco clifftop; has small café in patio area that is lovely place to stop for rest & good cup of coffee while you shop; if you’re going to be in Lima on Wednesday night, book table for famed Dedalo pizza & live music evenings; if you don’t have time to make trip to Barranco, visit their store in Larcomar shopping centre (open 10 am to 8 pm, 6 days weekly) & for browse through smaller selection of contemporary, urban handicrafts.
Origen Tostadores de Café – 1199 Avenida Bolivar (Pueblo Libre); 011-51-1-261-8280; origentostadoresdecafe.com; artisan coffee shop breaks coffee-making down to science & has chemistry-like machines to prove it; offers trifecta of wi-fi, quiet workspaces & hot or iced caffeinated beverages; various brewing techniques are used, but pride is beans (Origen works directly with local producers).
Panadería El Pan De La Chola – 918 Avenida Mariscal La Mar (Miraflores); 011-51-1-221-213; perudelights.com/el-pan-de-la-chola-perus-coolest-bread; Lima’s best panaderia (bakery); breads are based in local grains & pseudocereales like kiwicha & quinoa; sold by loaf, used for sandwiches & smothered with avocado; also housemade yogurt, Peruvian coffees & pastries; Lima’s best all-around breakfast option.
La P’tite France – 599 Calle Gonzáles Prada (Surquillo); 011-51-1-243-1565; es-la.facebook.com/laptitefrance.pe; while Peruvian gastronomy has taken off in recent years, many expats & foreigners believe good bread is still hard to find; this is among few small bakeries offering solution; traditional French techniques are taken seriously here, yet bakers get playful with flavors by incorporating native grains & spicy peppers into their loaves; try renowned flaky croissant.
La Panetteria Barranco – 369 Avenida Grau (Barranco); 011-51-1-469-8260; facebook.com/lapanetteriabarranco; among neighborhood favorites, this bakery serves wide variety of breads, from traditional baguettes & French rolls, to playful experiments like pesto or aji (Peru’s slightly spicy pepper) loaves; tantalizing desserts & warm sandwiches, all made right in rustic bakery; pair with hot cup of coffee or refreshing juice.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Ayahuasca – 130 Avenida San Martin (Barranco); 011-51-1-247-6751; ayahuascarestobar.com; old, colonial-style mansion turned into carnival-fun-house-bar; broken up into several rooms, upstairs & down, which makes wandering around large part of its charm; darkly lit rooms on 1st floor, or enjoy commotion of 2nd story rooms & patio; whichever you choose, noone should leave without trying craft cocktail from its extensive, almost overwhelming, drink list.
Bar Ingles – 590 Calle Los Eucaliptos (San Isidro, at Country Club Lima Hotel); 011-51-1-611-9000; hotelcountry.com/dinning/english-bar; for legendary Pisco Sour; housed in elegant, gleaming, 1927, Spanish-style white mansion (official national monument); set on sprawling lawn dotted with palms & overlooking Lima golf course; rich in history & atmosphere; bar is something of institution; room is wood-paneled & hugely attractive, all warm browns & royal blues, with heavy gold drapes at windows; décor evokes English gentlemen’s club in stately home; service is impeccable & they make authentic pisco sour, classic Peruvian cocktail.
Barra 55 – 206 Avenida 28 De Julio (Barranco); 011-51-986-638-744; facebook.com/barr55; specializing in gins, this intimate bar is tucked along one of Barranco’s liveliest streets; chill after-office hangout, or perhaps warm-up to wild night ahead, this is it; jazz beats evolve into funky tunes, array of international gins & other beverages; tapas to match.
Cala – Avenida Circuito de Playas (Barranco, on Playa Barrancquito, Espigon B2); 011-51-1-477-2020; calarestaurante.com/english/bar-lounge.html; among Lima’s few water-front drinking options; regularly cited as among best bars in Peru; gloriously situated, looking out at ocean over rocky beach; contemporary & stylish (if boxy) space with elegant downstairs lounge bar; ocean-side lounge serves bar food and, of course, an exemplary pisco sour. There can be few better spots to sip this classic Peruvian drink than the adjacent terrace, with the ocean rolling before you, the gulls wheeling overhead.
El Dragón – 168 Calle Nicolas de Pierola (Barranco); 011-51-1-797-1033; eldragon.com.pe; in traditional manor house; considered by young people as best & most lively dance spot in Lima; always live music, especially electronic, dance, rock, reggae & some jazz; cheap drinks in informal, relaxed atmosphere; owners describe as “cultural bar” that promotes bands with special emphasis on funk & Latin; decoration includes art from local painters; music changes daily: Tuesdays are for Afro, Jazz, Reggae & funk fusions; Wednesdays for electronic; Thursdays for local bands; & Fridays & Saturdays for local DJs.
La Emolienteria – 598 Diagonal (Miraflores, Bajada Balta); 011-51-1-446-3431; laemolienteria.pe; emoliente may be Latin America’s weirdest drink (herbal tea made of barley, flax seeds & horse tail); here, mixed with variety of pisco flavors (camu camu [tart Amazonian fruit], coca, eucalyptus, etc.), you pick from jugs in back.
Gotica – 610 Malecon de la Reserva (Miraflores, at Centro Commercial Larcomar, 5th floor); 011-51-966-730-354; gotica.com.pe; 2 hottest nightclubs in Lima (Gotica & Aura) stand just across way from another, facing one another in kind of silent challenge; as name implies, Gotica occupies dark, church-like building, atmospheric & cavernous; attracts fairly glamorous, if mixed crowd (everyone from city’s serious clubbers to stylish students & young professional types; among best places in town for electronic music: big name DJs play regularly; hip & lively; just remember to dress part or risk feeling rather out of place.
Huaringas Bar – 460 Calle Bolognesi (Miraflores); 011-51-1-243-8151; barexchange.com/bar/huaringas-bar-1091; go around 11 pm; lively bar, located above popular & stylish Brujas de Cachiche; attractively designed in old stone building full of hidden spaces & winding corridors; interior decor themed around elements (earth, air, water, fire); fills up fast with young urban professionals; serves innovative pisco cocktails (very much part of Peru’s new wave of pisco culture, new generation embracing traditional drink, here made accessible & modern, frequently flavored with fruit); range of other cocktails on offer, including refreshing coca leaf Chilcano, but classic sour with characteristic frothy cap of egg whites takes some beating; food menu worth exploring: traditional ingredients given contemporary twist & presented elegantly.
Insitu – 450 Calle Las Begonias (at Westin Lima Hotel & Convention Center); 011-51-1-201-5000; westinlima.com/insitubar; place to have Capitan (other Lima standard, with bitters, pisco & vermouth); lovely atmosphere.
Mayta Restaurante & Bar – 1290 Avenida 28th de Julio (Miraflores); 011-51-1-243-0121; maytarestaurante.com; contemporary bar-restaurant; bar like adventurous apothecary with 40 specialty pisco cocktails; try Chilcaño (pisco, ginger ale, bitters & lime juice).
La Noche – 199 Boulevard Sanchez Carrion (Barranco); 011-51-1-247-1012; lanoche.com.pe; recently turned 20 years old; owners (Peruvian-Spanish couple) call it “cultural bar” because schedules concerts, cultural events, parties, plays, stand-up comedy shows, etc; in large & traditional manor house with walls covered by young local artists’ work; beers, cocktails, wines, including local star, pisco-sour (& other pisco-based drinks); some appetizers & sandwiches.



HOTELS
B Arts Boutique Hotel – 204 Saenz Peña (Barranco); 011-51-1-206-0800; hotelb.pe; upscale hotel, set in 1914, seaside Belle Époque style mansion (former presidential residence); 17 elegant rooms & suites with free Wi-Fi, plasma TVs with satellite channels & iPod docks; also feature desks & living areas with sofas, as well as soaking tubs & minibars; room service available; parking, breakfast & tea time; formal restaurant, cozy bar & relaxed lounge with terrace seating.
Belmond Miraflores Park – 1035 Avenida Malecón de la Reserva (Miraflores); 011-51-1-610-4000; belmond.com/miraflores-park-lima; modern luxury hotel with elegant suites featuring free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs & DVD players, plus minibars, living areas and marble bathrooms. Upgrades add saunas and city views. Some have dining areas, terraces and panoramic city or ocean views, plus lounge access offering free breakfast; 2 restaurants, including 1 offering Lima & Pacific Ocean views; bar, fitness center & outdoor pool, along with children’s theater, turtle pond & bike rental.
Country Club Lima Hotel – 590 Calle Los Eucaliptos (San Isidro); 011-51-1-611-9000; hotelcountry.com; set in embassy area; stately hotel in historic building with antiques & original artwork (across road from Lima Golf Club); elegant rooms feature free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, safes & minibars; upgraded rooms add sitting areas & balconies (with garden or golf course views); some rooms have whirlpool tubs; suites add marble bathrooms & plush living rooms; upscale restaurant serves Peruvian cuisine; chic piano bar offers light meals.; English-style pub, gym, spa & outdoor pool; guests have access to neighboring golf club (surcharge).
Gran Hotel Bolivar – 958 Jirón de la Unión 958 (Lima); 011-51-1-619-7171; granhotelbolivar.com.pe; 2-minute walk from Plaza San Martin; grand, 1920s hotel & historic monument; warm, traditional rooms with antique furnishings offer free Wi-Fi, cable TV & safes; suites include separate living rooms with desks; upgraded suites add views of St. Martin square; 1 has a minibar, dining room & historic balcony from 1920s; free breakfast buffet is served in refined restaurant, which offers terrace; cozy cocktail lounge; stunning stained glass dome in lobby installed in 1924.
Miraflores Hotel Señorial – 567 Calle Jose Gonzáles (Miraflores); 011-51-1-241-2173; senorial.com; sweet boutique inn with great service; simple but elegant rooms in Peruvian style decor; boasts big garden & restaurant.
Westin Lima Hotel – 450 Calle Las Begonias (San Isidro); 011-51-1-201-5000; westinlima.com; 300 rooms & great spa; set in financial district, this modern hotel is upscale, with Peruvian-inspired rooms that feature plush beds, floor-to-ceiling windows & marble bathrooms with free-standing tubs, plus TVs & Wi-Fi (fee); some include fitness equipment; dining options include contemporary Peruvian restaurant & cozy bar; heated indoor pool & gym.



RESTAURANTS
ÁmaZ – 1079 Avenida la Paz (Miraflores); 011-51-1-221-9393; amaz.com.pe; Chef Pedro Miguel’s latest wonder is wholly dedicated to Amazonian abundance; start with tart jungle-fruit cocktails & oversized tostones (plantain chips); banana-leaf wraps, a/k/a juanes, hold treasures like fragrant Peking duck with rice; excellent encurtido (pickled vegetables) & generous vegetarian set menu for 2 is delicious way to sample diversity.
Astrid y Gastón – 290 Avenida Paz Soldan (San Isidro); 011-51-1-442-2777; en.astridygaston.com/reservations; elegant high-ceilinged grandeur with minimalist décor; brilliant-white 17th Century former plantation house, which also houses bar, private rooms, development kitchen, patio & kitchen garden; Astrid y Gastón has been leading Peru’s gastronomic surge since its opening 20 years ago, with talented head chef Diego Muñoz at helm for several years; Gastón Acurio returned to kitchen in 2015 after several years flying flag for his country’s cuisine around world; his extensive tasting menu explores region’s ingredients, traditions & culinary techniques; re tasting menu, latest manifestation, called Región Lima, designed as more permanent, though evolving, structure; every ingredient featured in 30 or so courses comes from wider Lima area (& many grown in restaurant’s garden).
La Bodega Verde – 335 Sucre (Barranco); 011-51-1-247-8804; facebook.com/labodegaverde; set in walled garden, this cafe & gallery is pleasant spot to linger; try salad, lucuma milkshake with fruit from garden tree, tea served in ceramic pot or organic coffee; breakfast includes whole-grain breads; sweets, like carrot cake, are especially good.
Brujas de Cachiche – 472 Calle Bolognesi (Miraflores); 011-51-1-447-1883; brujasdecachiche.com.pe/en; although name Bruja conjures up haunted house, “Witches of Cachiche” is modern space with huge windows, soaring ceilings & modern art; magic is cooking, which draws on Peru’s traditional cuisines; results include delicacies like corvina en salsa de camarones (sea bass in roasted crayfish sauce), cabrito a la norteña (stewed kid) & pato al ají (chili stewed duck); desgustación, 4-course meal with 6 items in each course, lets you sample array of dishes; wine list has some top South American vintages; cozy bar in back is good spot for appetizers or light meal in early evening, when most restaurants are closed.
Café Tostado – 222 Avenida Nicolás de Pierola (Barranco); 011-55-1-247-7133; facebook.com/pages/Café-Tostado/370694696348858; cultural experience; barely converted auto-repair shop long ago transformed into traditional cooking bastion with long wooden tables & open kitchen surrounded by scarred iron pots & drying noodles; daily specials rotate but sought-after signature dish is rabbit.
La Canta Rana – 101 Calle Genova (Barranco); 011-51-1-247-7274; facebook.com/Canta-Rana-224006512068; “singing frog”; relaxed & informal, neighborhood cevichería that looks almost like garage; immensely popular with locals; among Lima’s best cevicherias & fresh seafood restaurants, served in classic coastal manner; shacklike interior decorated with simple wood tables & walls are festooned with fútbol (soccer) paraphernalia.
Central Restaurante – 376 Calle Santa Isabel (Miraflores); 011-51-1-242-8515; centralrestaurante.com.pe/en; best restaurant in Latin America 2016 & 5th best in world 2017; hidden on residential street few blocks south of Larcomar shopping center; refurbished childhood home of chef Virgilio Martínez; airy, chic venue; celebrates Peruvian biodiversity by creating memorable meals using fresh, often organic ingredients; Martínez and his wife, chef María Pía Leon, change menu every 6 months, but always includes such local delicacies as corvina (Pacific whitefish), arapaima (Amazon fish), suckling pig & kid stewed overnight; 8- & 18-course menus take taste buds on journey from coast to Andes to rain forest; reserve at least 2 weeks in advance for dinner, 1 week for lunch.
Chez Wong (Javier Wong) – 114 Calle Enrique León García (La Victoria, Santa Catalina); 011-51-1-470-6217 or 011-51-975-483-239; facebook.com/ChezJavierWong; culinary superstars like Eric Ripert seek out this diminutive dining room, tucked inside residential building in working-class area for city’s finest ceviche, sliced & seasoned by chef Javier Wong; only open for lunch; reserve spot well in advance; Anthony Bourdain is fan of ceviche.
Domus – 410 Jirón Miró Quesada (Cercado de Lima); 0011-51-1-427-0525; facebook.com/Domus-lima-662581930441756; restored 19th Century mansion houses modern-yet-intimate 2-room restaurant that caters to journalists from nearby El Comercio; no à la carte dining, just rotating daily list of well-executed Peruvian–Italian specialties that always includes vegetarian option; freshly squeezed juices accompany this well-tended feast; excellent value; highly recommended.
La Gloria – 201 Calle Atahualpa (Miraflores); 011-51-1-446-6504; lagloriarestaurant.com; classic Lima restaurant experience; formal, with white tablecloths; well-turned-out families have subdued conversations; impeccable food & service; delicate pasta dishes, elegant meat & exquisite wine list.
Huaca Pucllana – 8 General Borgoño (Miraflores); 011-51-1-617-7148; resthuacapucllana.com; breathtaking setting in Huaca Pucllana ruins, archaeological compound built between 200-700 CE; illuminated at night, making some amazing views on covered terrace; try duck risotto, ceviche de camarones a la piedra (stone prawn ceviche) or locro de costillas de cordero (lamb-ribs with a pumpkin stew); excellent bar; after dining, tour ruins with restaurant guide.
IK Restaurante – 179 Calle Elías Aguirre (Miraflores); 011-51-1-652-1692; ivankisic.pe; when Chef Ivan Kisic worked in prestigious European kitchens, he dreamed of returning to Peru to open his own restaurant, where he could celebrate his country’s culinary diversity & establish equitable relationships with local fishermen & farmers; Ivan was killed in automobile accident shortly before IK Restaurante opened, but his family keeps dream – & his memory – alive by serving his recipes in restaurant he designed; walls covered with foliage & wood reflect commitment to serving fresh, organic ingredients; starters include Amazonian cebiche (wok-seared paiche marinated in lime juice with jungle spices) & selection of native potatoes, tubers & smoked tomato; signature dishes include grouper sauteed with zucchini & portobello mushrooms & suckling pig stewed with dark beer & lentils; save room for amazing desserts.
Isolina Taberna Peruana – 101 Avenida San Martín Prolongacion (Barranco); 011-51-1-247-5075; facebook.com/isolinaperu; home-style, criollo food at its best; doesn’t shy away from kidneys & tripe, but also offers loving preparations of succulent ribs, causa escabechada (with marinated onions) & vibrant green salads on handwritten menu; family-sized portions come in old-fashioned tins, but can make lighter meal of starters like marinated clams or ceviche.
Jacinto’s – 1954 Avenida Universitaria (Los Olivos); 011-51-1-531-8204; facebook.com/pages/Jacintos/339602792804935; old-fashioned breakfast spot near airport; order chicharrón de cerdo (pig fried in lard).
La Mar Cebichería Peruana – 770 Avenida Mariscal La Mar (Miraflores); 011-51-1-421-3365; lamarcebicheria.com/en/Lima; reinvented traditional cebichería; among Lima’s most popular lunch spots; decor is minimalist, with plenty of rock, bamboo & palms along wall; menu is kaleidoscopic; start by sharing desgustación de cebiche (various types of fish or seafood marinated in lime juice) or chalana de causas (various mashed-potato appetizers with seafood & mayonnaise fillings); then try picante de mariscos (sautéed seafood in spicy cream sauce), pez diablo al estilo nikkei (rockfish fillets fried & topped with Asian sauce), or catch of day; servings tend to be large, so you may want to share; does not take reservations, so arrive before 1 or wait hour for table.
Maido – 399 Calle San Martin (Miraflores); 011-51-1-446-2512; maido.pe/en; true artistry & exquisite flavors make Maido among top-ranked Japanese fusion restaurants in world; menu ranges from sushi to okonomiyaki & ramen, albeit with Peruvian accent; desserts – like yucca mochi or white chocolate egg with sorbet yolk – delight; supports sustainable fishing.
Matria – 823 Calle Gral Mendiburu (Miraflores); 011-51-1-422-2784; matriarestaurante.com; warmly lit & decorated with draping plants; offers classic Peruvian dishes with contemporary touch & creative cocktail menu to match within warm atmosphere of casual elegance; young chef is sure to offer every diet-need option (from vegan & gluten-free, to meat lovers) & makes best of seasonal ingredients.
Mayta Restaurante & Bar – 1290 Avenida 28th de Julio (Miraflores); 011-51-1-243-0121; maytarestaurante.com; place to be seen; fashionable, young crowd attracted by stunningly presented plates; emulsions, foams & reductions used to electrifying effect in vividly colored dishes that pay homage to Peru’s diverse food culture; menu changes seasonally but could include toasted cuy (guinea pig - wait, what?) with corn emulsion & muña oil or grilled octopus with Andean potatoes, aji limo chimichurri & black olive salt.
Mi Causa – 841 Avenida Mariscal La Mar (Miraflores); 011-51-1-221-6955; facebook.com/RestauranteMiCausa; temple to humble potato & sculptural dishes that can be produced with it, this inventive eatery dishes up more than 50 (including dozen vegetarian options) varieties of causa, traditional Peruvian potato salad; expect rainbow’s worth of hot & cold causas, layered with mouth-watering combinations of seafood, chicken, beef, cheese & vegetables, some made with uncommon strains of tuber, such as puca sonqo, which is pink.
Morphology – 1332 Avenida Mariscal La Mar (Miraflores); 011-51-1-333-4164; facebook.com/morphologyconceptstore; rooftop restaurant based on farm-to-table.
La Nacional – 1254 Avenida La Mar (Miraflores); 011-51-1-441-2030; lanacional.pe; for traditional Peruvian dishes like pastel de choclo (savory corn cake with layers of meat & cheese) or lomo saltado (stir-fried beef atop fried potato wedges); modern kitchen serves tradition with fresh twist; relaxed atmosphere with touch of elegance makes this popular pick for evening meal.
La Picantería de Surquillo – 388 Francisco Moreno (Surquillo, on corner of Gonzales Prada; 011-51-1-241-6676; picanteriasdelperu.com; just blocks from famous Surquillo market, diners share 2 long tables to feast on sea urchin omelette, stuffed rocoto peppers & stewed ossobuco; these traditional plates, hailing from both northern & southern Peru, come with edge.
La Preferida – 698 Arias Araguez; 011-51-1-445-5180; facebook.com/LAPREFERIDAMIRAFLORES; charming take-out place that has gorgeous causas & fresh seafood specialties such as pulpo al olivo (octopus in olive sauce) & choros a la chalaca (mussels with corn & tomato salsa) served in tapas-sized portions; few stools to accommodate diners.
Rafael – 300 Calle San Martin (Miraflores); 011-51-1-242-4149; rafaelosterling.pe; contemporary Mediterranean; in beautiful Art Deco townhouse; consistent favorite of discerning critics, here, Chef Rafael Osterling produces panoply of fusion dishes, such as tiradito bathed in Japanese citrus or suckling goat stewed in Madeira wine; for slimmer budgets, crisp pizzas are divine; generously poured cocktails & lengthy international wine list.
Restaurante El Mercado – 203 Avenida Hipólito Unanue (Miraflores); 011-57-1-221-1322; rafaelosterling.pe/es/el-mercado.html; try grilled octopus in chile-pepper sauce; in canopy-covered room with wooden tables & rattan chairs; worth special trip to Lima for this restaurant alone.
La 73 de Barranco – 175 Avenida El Sol Oueste (Barranco); 011-51-1-247-0780; facebook.com/pg/La-73-de-Barranco-14084227251/about/?ref=page_internal; contemporary-yet-cozy neighborhood eatery; Mediterranean-Peruvian menu strong on Italian specialties, such as yellow-potato gnocchi; pleasant wine bar that also serves 8 pisco types; try strudel de carne; may want to start with dessert, however: crisp, warm churros.
Sonia – La Rosa Lozano & 173 Tirado (Chorrillos); 011-51-1-251-6693; restaurantsonia.com; ceviche & seafood; excellent calamari; popular with locals (insider secret).
Tanta – 888 Avenida 28 de Julio 888 (Miraflores, in Larcomar Shopping Center); 011-51-1-447-8377; tantaperu.com; chic, Peruvian-Italian fusion restaurant with menu that is work of chef Gastón Acurio; offers excellent mix of light to hearty fare; on light side, extensive salad & sandwich selections & empanadas with fillings such as ají de gallina (chicken in creamy pepper sauce); come hungry & share order of causushis (cold mashed potato with various fillings), then gorge on lomo saltado (sautéed beef strips, onion, peppers & tomato over rice), paella, goat cheese ravioli in tomato-basil sauce, or Huancaina fettuccine in yellow pepper–cheese sauce with sirloin scaloppine topped with mushrooms; save room for brownie lúcuma (topped with cream of native lúcuma fruit) or 1 of other amazing pastries.
El Veridico de Fidel – 246 Calle Colón (Miraflores); 011-51-1-445-9297; facebook.com/vfmiraflores; not just cevichería but place of pilgrimage; renowned for leche de tigre (ceviche broth), served not in typical shot glass but soup bowl, studded with fresh seafood; ceviche is equally spectacular.
El Veridico de Fidel – 935 Calle Jirón Abtao (La Victoria); 011-51-1-325-4478; facebook.com/ElVeridicodeFidelOficial; not just cevichería but place of pilgrimage; hole-in-wall across from Alianza Lima stadium; renowned for leche de tigre (ceviche broth), served not in typical shot glass but soup bowl, studded with fresh seafood; ceviches is equally spectacular; rough neighborhood; take taxi – even in daytime.



SERVICES
Dehouche – 800-690-6899; dehouche.com; travel specialists; arrange cultural tours; they have access to some of Lima’s most exquisite private art collections.
Heavenly Spa – 450 Calle Las Begonias (San Isidro, at Westing Lima Hotel); 011-51-1-201-5020; heavenlyspalima.com; among best spas in city.



SHOPPING
Artesanías Las Pallas – 212 Calle Cajamarca (Barranco); 011-51-1-477-4629; afar.com/places/artesanias-las-pallas-lima; artisanal crafts from all over country; for special gifts & highest-quality products from all over Peru; ring the bell if gate is closed during opening hours.
La Bodega Verde – 335 Sucre (Barranco); 011-51-1-247-8804; facebook.com/labodegaverde; set in walled garden, this cafe & art gallery is pleasant spot to linger.
Centro Colich – 110 Jirón Colina (Barranco); 011-51-1-247-1538; enlima.pe/lugares/centro-colich; hidden gem, exhibition space, boutique clothing atelier & café; trendy, bohemian atmosphere with ever-changing array of artwork, artisan jewelry, decoration & interior design & high-quality clothing; in house built in 1907 & owned by Austrian Santiago Colich; building is fully restored to its original glory, with high ceilings & colorful tiled floors.
Cuatro en Un Baúl – 105 Jiron Martinez de Pinillos (Barranco); 011-51-1-247-8882; facebook.com/pg/CuatroEnUnBaul/about/?ref=page_internal; with furniture & framed artworks inspired by decades past, as well as small keepsakes such as children’s books from national authors & playful figurines, this unique store is perfect for those who like vintage; many items are up-cycled antiques, so whatever you buy, you’ll likely be only one to have it.
Dédalo Arte y Artesania – 295 Calle Saenz Pena (Barranco); 011-51-1-652-5400; facebook.com/dedalo.arte; Barranco institution visited by Hollywood stars & passing dignitaries looking for modern Peru souvenirs; concept is contemporary, urban in design; unique collections & pieces by Peruvian designers showcased in beautifully restored, colonial house on quiet street next to Barranco clifftop; space itself is divided into nooks displaying different themes; well-known Peruvian designers include Vacide Erda Zimic & Puro Corazon (handbags have small atelier space where will find full collection of their pieces); larger rooms like vidro room display decorative & utilitarian pieces including frames, candle holders & decorative pieces made from glass, wood & metal; kids’ section is well-stocked with colorful range of clothes, mobiles, toys & books; jewelery room has wide selection of collections from Peruvian jewelery designers, including Hiro Yoshimoto; family business with 3 of couples’ 5 children heavily involved; daughter Paloma is curator for onsite exhibition space that houses exhibits by Peruvian artists (changes every 3 weeks); son Sebastian manages their smaller space in Larcomar; daughter Mariana looks after business’ graphic design aspects; also has small café in patio area that is lovely place to stop for rest & good cup of coffee while you shop; if you’re going to be in Lima on Wednesday night, book table for famed Dedalo pizza & live music evenings; if you don’t have time to make trip to Barranco, visit their store in Larcomar shopping centre (open 10 am to 8 pm, 6 days weekly) & for browse through smaller selection of contemporary, urban handicrafts.
Galeria 80m2 Arte & Debates – 252 Malecón Pazos (Barranco); 011-51-1-252-9246; 80m2galeria.com or facebook.com/80m2LiviaBenavides; established & starting Peruvian artists.
Galeria Lucia de la Puente – 206 Calle Saenz Peña (Barranco); 011-51-1-477-0237; gluciadelapuente.com/en; magnificent 2-story casona is home to Lima’s most prestigious contemporary art gallery; look for works by cutting-edge painters such as Fernando Gutiérrez, whose canvases often skewer Peruvian culture.
Helena Chocolatier – 498 Calle General Iglesias (Miraflores); 011-51-1-242-8899; helenachocolatier.com; longtime artisanal chocolate shop that crafts Chocolates D’Gala, each stuffed with fillings made from pecans, marzipan or raspberries & individually gift-wrapped.
Helena Chocolatier – 610 Malecon de la Riserva (Miraflores, at Centro Comercial LarcoMar, 1st Floor, #104B); 011-51-1-242-9250; helenachocolatier.com; longtime artisanal chocolate shop that crafts Chocolates D’Gala, each stuffed with fillings made from pecans, marzipan or raspberries & individually gift-wrapped.
Larcomar Mall – 610 Malecon de la Riserva (Miraflores); 011-51-1-620-6000; larcomar.com; for some, shopper’s Shangri-La tucked away in Miraflores’ seafront cliffs; for others, it’s unappealing, over-commercialized shopping mall that happens to have a good cinema; either way, there’s no denying Larcomar’s popularity among both Peruvian locals & foreign tourists; plenty of things to do throughout day & into night, from shopping for Peruvian high fashion, eating ice-cream or catching latest 3D movie; also place to see & be seen, with fancy restaurants & romantic seafront views, giving it sophisticated side not often associated with shopping malls; since opening in 1998, cliff top location (below Parque Salazar) has attracted many major brands; now more than 80 shops within complex, selling everything from chocolates to clothes to traditional Peruvian artesanía; also will find restaurants, bars, cafes, discos & even theater.
Lorena Pestana Joyeria Organica – 770 Calle General Borgoño (Miraflores); 011-51-1-446-4033; lorenapestana.pe; trained architect, Lima-based, Lorena Pestana roots her organic jewelry design approach in Peruvian communities’ techniques & traditions, expanding repertoire over time to include modern materials & practices; beaded necklaces & gilded rings reflect native Amazonian communities’ & their connection to natural world.
Morphology – 1332 Avenida Mariscal La Mar (Miraflores); 011-51-1-333-4164; facebook.com/morphologyconceptstore; complete experience for senses, this towering shop boasts 4 floors to explore, each providing something different; designer pieces & jewelry from national & international fashion names, as well as home decor & baby clothes are on display in 1st & 2nd level; top floors include art gallery & rooftop restaurant based on farm-to-table.
Trend Studio – 217 Calle Porta (Miraflores); 011-51-1-242-7517; facebook.com/trendstudio; Peruvian designers only, such as Jose Francisco shoes, Maria Luisa Negri lace dresses, Marino Mixan jewelry.



SIGHTS & SITES
Amano Museum – 160 Retiro (Miraflores); 011-51-1-441-2909; eng.museoamano.org; best collection of Chancay culture ceramics & textiles; additionally, ceramics belonging to Chimu, Cunispique, Kotosh, Moche & Nazca cultures.
Amazonas Bookmarket (Feria de Libros Amazonas) – Jirón Amazonas (Cercado de Lima, at Puente Balta & along Avenida Abancay); 011-51-921-853-033; facebook.com/pg/Feria-De-Libros-Amazonas-292599347512269/about/?ref=page_internal; largest street book market in South America; over 200 stalls; not bookstore, but actually permanent market of book sellers; can find new, used, even pirated books; open till 8 or 9 pm, though sellers seem to set their own hours; very difficult to navigate & not place to go for specific purchase.
Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Merced – 621 Jiron de la Union (Historic Center); 011-51-1-427-8199; mercedarios.pe; 1st Latin Mass in Lima held in 1534 on small patch of land now marked by Basilica de la Merced; originally built in 1541; rebuilt several times over next 2 centuries; most of today’s structure dates to 18th Century; most striking feature is imposing granite facade, carved in churrigueresque manner (highly ornate style popular during late Spanish baroque period).
Basílica y Convento de Santo Domingo – 170 Jirón Camaná (Lima); 011-51-1-427-6793; conventosantodomingo.pe; among Lima’s most storied religious sites; church & expansive convent are built on land granted to Dominican Friar Vicente de Valverde, who accompanied Pizarro throughout conquest & was instrumental in persuading him to execute captured Inca Atahualpa; originally completed in 16th Century, rebuilt & remodeled at various points since.
Casa Aliaga – 224 Jirón de la Unión (Lima); 011-51-1-427-7736; casadealiaga.com; oldest Colonial mansion in Lima, maybe even in all South America; has been occupied by 16 generations of descendants since Francisco Pizarro granted land to Jerónimo de Aliaga in 1535; originally there was pre-Colombian altar on land; may not look like much from outside, but interiors are lovely, with vintage furnishings & tile work; can be visited either with special tour operators in Lima or after prior arrangement with Casa Aliaga (which also can recommend private operators); also can book elegant lunch or dinner with them.
Cathedral Basilica of St. John Apostle & Evangelist – Jirón Carabaya (Lima); 011-51-1-427-9647; arzobispadodelima.org; next to Palacio Arzobispal, Cathedral rests on land Pizarro designated for city’s 1st church in 1535; though retains baroque facade, building has been built & rebuilt numerous times: in 1551, in 1622 & after earthquakes of 1687 & 1746; last major restoration in 1940.
Centro Cultural de España – 181 Jirón Natalio Sanchez (Santa Beatriz); 011-51-1-330-0412; ccelima.org; in old casona that housed conquistadors during 16th Century; daily art exhibits, plays, films & other events, including occasional live indie, electronic & rock bands on terrace of bar-restaurant.
Choco Museum – 375 Calle Berlin (Miraflores); Belgian, French & Swiss chocolates are said to be best in world, but what about Ecuadorian or Peruvian chocolates, Ecuador & Peru being where cacao originates; exhibit covers journey from cacao bean to chocolate bar; don’t miss daily chocolate making workshop.
El Circuito Mágico del Agua – Avenida Petit Thouars (Puerta 5, Parque de la Reserva); 011-51-1-424-0827; circuitomagicodelagua.com.pe; illuminated fountains is so over-top it can’t help but induce stupefaction among even most hardened traveling cynic; dozen different fountains – all splendiferously illuminated – capped, at end, by laser light show at 120m-long Fuente de la Fantasía; whole display set to medley of tunes comprised of everything from Peruvian waltzes to ABBA; has to be seen to be believed.
Convento y Museo de Los Descalzos – 202 Calle Manco Capac (Rímac, Alameda de los Descalzos); 011-51-1-481-0441; facebook.com/museodelosdescalzospaginaoficial; 16th Century convent & museum, run by Descalzos (“Barefooted,” reference to Franciscan friars); can see old winemaking equipment in kitchen, refectory, infirmary & monastic cells; 300 colonial paintings, including noteworthy canvases by renowned Cuzco School artist Diego Quispe Tito.
Distrito Jesús María – bordered by Breña & Pueblo Libre District to west, downtown Lima to east & north, Lince District to east & Magdalena del Mar & San Isidro to south; expatperu.com/jesus-maria.html; good neighborhood through which to walk & enjoy brightly colored, Spanish colonial buildings with intricate, wooden balconies.
Espacio Fundación Telefonica – 1155 Avenida Arequipa (Lima); 011-51-1-210-1327; espacio.fundaciontelefonica.com.pe; cultural center that focuses on arts, specifically those pertaining to technology & digital formats; though part of largest Spanish multinational & housed on ground level of corporate building, Espacio is non-profit & brings some of most forward-thinking artists (national & international) to forefront; entry to exhibits, screenings, lectures & audio performances is free; frequent classes, ranging from animation to how to organize cultural events, have varying costs; see website.
Fortaleza del Real Felipe – Plaza Independencia (Callao); 011-51-1-429-0532; limacitykings.com/fortaleza-real-felipe-fortress; in 1820s, Spanish royalists made last stand during battle for independence at this historic fort, built in 1747 to guard against pirates; still houses small military contingent; visits are by guided tours in Spanish only.
Iglesia de las Nazarenas – Jiron Huancavelica (Lima); 011-51-1-423-5718; arzobispadodelima.org/senior-de-los-milagros/2010/09/17/especial-el-senor-de-los-milagroshistoria; 1 Lima’s most storied churches; part of 17th Century shantytown inhabited by former slaves; 1 of them painted image of Crucifixion on wall here, which survived earthquake of 1655 & church built around it (painting serves as main altar centerpiece) in 1700s; church has been rebuilt many times but wall endures.
Iglesia de San Agustín – 251 Jirón Ica (Lima); 011-51-1-427-7548; church has elaborate churrigueresque facade (completed in 1720), replete with stone carvings of angels, flowers, fruit & St. Augustine; interiors are drab, but church is home to curious woodcarving called “La Muerte” (“Death”) by 18th Century sculptor Baltazar Gavilán; as 1 (probably fictional) story goes, Gavilán died from madness after viewing his own chilling sculpture in middle of night; piece sometimes travels, so call ahead.
Larco Herrera Museum – 1515 Avenida Simón Bolivar (Pueblo Libre); 011-51-1-461-1312; museolarco.org; privately owned museum of pre-Columbian art.
Microteatro Lima – 271 Batallón Ayacucho (Barranco); 011-51-1-252-8092; microteatrolima.com; anything but dry or high society; rotating roster of directors & actors changes weekly, offering up plays of just 15 minutes, performed in 15m square room in front of 15 audience members; lively bar makes this great & unique outing.
Monasterio de San Francisco – Jirón Lampa (Lima); 011-51-1-426-7377; museocatacumbas.com; bright-yellow Franciscan monastery & church; most famous for bone-lined catacombs (containing estimated 70K remains) & remarkable library housing 25K antique texts, some of which predate conquest; admission includes 30-minute guided tour in English or Spanish; tours leave as groups gather.
Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI) – 125 Paseo Colon (Lima, in Parque de la Exposición); 011-51-1-204-0000; mali.pe; known locally as MALI, Lima’s principal fine-art museum is housed in striking beaux-arts building that was recently renovated; subjects span from pre-Columbian to contemporary art; guided visits to special exhibits.
Museo Banco Central de Reserva del Perú – 271 Jirón Ucayali (Lima); 011-51-1-613-2000; bcrp.gob.pe/museocentral/el-museo.html; housed in graceful bank building, museum provides well-presented overview of several millennia of Peruvian art, from pre-Columbian gold & pottery to selection of 19th-20th Century Peruvian canvases; don’t miss watercolors by Pancho Fierro on top floor, which provide unparalleled view of dress & class in 19th Century Lima; identification is required for admittance.
Museo de Inquisition & Congress – 548 Jirón Junin (Lima); 011-51-1-428-7980; congreso.gob.pe/museo.htm; located in important, old (1896) building; during Spanish Inquisition, prisoners tortured in what is now basement; life-sized wax figures setting scenes makes visit quite creepy.
Museo Larco – 1515 Avenida Bolivar (Pueblo Libre); 011-51-1-461-1312; museolarco.org; built on pre-Columbian temple site, this museum houses ceramic artifacts, textiles (some over 2.5K years old) & precious jewels; also has room dedicated to ancient Peruvian ceremonies of fertility, sacrifice & burials (erotica & gold treasures).
Museo Mario Testino (MATE) – 409 Avenida Pedro de Osama (Barranco); 011-51-1-251-7755; mate.pe; showcases Mario Testino’s immense body of fashion photography, this museum is joy to behold; from huge portraits of top models, royals & celebrities including, Gisele Bundchen, Kate Moss & Princess Diana to style shots of traditional Peruvian fashion & textiles, it’s hard to walk away unimpressed.
Museo Nacional de Arquelogia, Antropologia e Historia del Peru – Cuadra 9 Plaza Bolivar (Pueblo Libre); 011-51-1-321-5630; mnaahp.cultura.pe; fascinating museum guides you through Peruvian history from prehistoric to colonial & republican times; exhibits from different epochs include: ceramics, carved stone figures & obelisks, metalwork, jewelery & textiles; make sure to see granite Tello Obelisk (Chavin period) & Moche ceramics.
Museo Nacional de la Cultura Peruana – 650 Avenida Alfonso Ugarte (Lima); 011-51-1-321-5626; cultura.gob.pe/es/tags/museo-nacional-de-la-cultura-peruana; on traffic-choked thoroughfare, museum is Peruvian folk art repository; collection, consisting of elaborate retablos (religious dioramas) from Ayacucho, historic pottery from Puno & works in feathers from Amazon; displayed in building whose exterior facade is inspired by pre-Columbian architecture.
Museo de Oro del Perú – 1100 Jirón Alonso de Molina (Santiago de Surco); 011-51-1-345-1292; museoroperu.com.pe/museum.html; now notorious Museo de Oro del Perú, private museum, was must-see until 2001, when study revealed that 85% of museum’s metallurgical pieces were fakes; reopened with assurance that works on display are bona fide, though descriptions classify certain pieces as reproductions; cluttered, poorly signed exhibits still leave something to be desired.
Museo del Pisco – 193 Jirón Carabaya (Lima); 011-51-998-825-566; museodelpisco.org; where wonders of national drink are extolled, exalted and – of course – sampled; opened by enthusiastic expat, this museum-bar is Pisco 101, combined with tapas lounge; grab spot early for show-stopping live music (9-11 pm nightly).
Museo Postal y Filatelico – 170 Jirón Conde de Superunda (Cercado de Lima); 011-51-1-321-5627; museos.cultura.pe/museos/museo-postal-y-filatélico-del-perú; stamp collector’s dream, not to be missed; showcases various international & Peruvian stamps depicting cultural & historical landmarks such as Agrarian reform from 1969.
Palacio Torre Tagle – 363 Jirón Ucayali (Lima); 011-51-1-311-2400; limaeasy.com/culture-guide/historical-buildings/torre-tagle-palace; most immaculate of Lima’s historic casonas was completed in 1735, with its ornate baroque portico (best in Lima) & striking Moorish-style balconies; now home to Peru’s Foreign Ministry, so entry is restricted; groups & educational organizations, however, can request tour in advance.
Panteón de los Próceres – 1220 Avenida Nicolás de Piérola (Lima); 011-51-1-427-8157; cehmp.org; located inside little-visited, 18th Century Jesuit church, this monument pays tribute to Peruvian battle heroes, from Túpac Amaru II (18th Century Quechua leader who led indigenous uprising) to José de San Martín (who led country to independence in 1820s); mosaic-lined crypt holds remains of Ramón Castilla, 4-time Peruvian president who saw country through good piece of 19th Century; impressive baroque altar, carved out of Ecuadorean mahogany, dates to 1500s.
Parque del Amor – Malecón de la Reserva (Miraflores); 011-51-992-111-400; mirafloresperu.com/turismo-miraflores-lima-peru/parque-del-amor.php; protected from ocean breeze by colorful mosaic wall, this park is ideal place to take selfie or walk through; large sculpture of couple kissing seems to hover over area, setting playfully romantic tone; after admiring undulating walls that seem to mimic Pacific’s waves below, can grab bite at nearby kiosk.
Parque de la Muralla – Jirón Amazonas (Lima, between Avenida Abancay & Lampa); 011-51-1-427-4125; limaeasy.com/have-fun-in-lima/parks-gardens-lima/parque-de-la-muralla; during 17th Century, heart of Lima was ringed by muralla (city wall), much of which was torn down in 1870s as city expanded; however, can view set of excavated remains; in addition to wall, small on-site museum (with erratic hours) details city development & holds few objects.
Pueblo Libre – neighborhood bounded to North by Lima District & Breña, to East by Jesús María, to South by Magdalena del Mar & to West by San Miguel; limaeasy.com/lima-info/districts-of-lima/the-district-pueblo-libre; good area through which to walk & enjoy brightly colored, Spanish colonial buildings with intricate, wooden balconies.
Zoológico Parque de Las Leyendas – 580-582 Avenida Las Leyendas (San Miguel); 011-51-1-719-2872; archive.org/web/20161014030403/http://www.leyendas.gob.pe/index.html; covers Peru’s major geographical divisions: coast, jungle & mountains; 210 native animals, with few imports (such as hippos); conditions are OK & zoo is well maintained.

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