Saturday, July 9, 2011

JOHANNESBURG

(includes Braamfontein, Randburg & Sterkfontein)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA

De La Creme – 4th Avenue & 7th Street (Melville-Randburg); 011-27-011-726-7716; some of city’s best bread and cakes; also serves breakfasts, burgers & sandwiches, as well as heavier main meals such as bobotie (delicately flavoured curry with beaten egg topping baked to crust) and grills; large windows on all sides from where can watch street.

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Attic – 24 4th Avenue (Randburg); 011-27-011-880-6102; wine bar.
Bassline – 10 Henry Nxumalo Street (Newton); 011-27-011-838-9142; bassline.co.za; widely seen as city’s best live music space; hip-hop, jazz, and reggae.
Kitchener’s Carvery Bar – 5 De Beer Street (Braamfontein, at Juta Street); 011-27-079-266-5077; where stylish 20-somethings gather to dance to 90s music and toast with beer pints; laid-back pub that dates back more than century.
Play Bar – 36 Stiemens Street (Braamfontein, at Alexander Theater); 011-27-083-967-8995; thealex.co.az; restored theater-front bar.
Sophiatown Bar Lounge – Jeppe Street (Newton, at Henry Nxumalo Street); 011-27-011-836-5999; sophiatown.co.za; where musicians like Hugh Masekela and Miriam Makeba honed their crafts; retro-chic; live jazz on Thursdays.

HOTELS
Grace in Rosebank – 54 Bath Avenue (Rosebank); 011-27-011-280-7200; thegrace.co.za; 10-story red brick and limestone building garnished with columns, cornices, and pediments; guestrooms occupy top 6 floors; understated elegance; tone is set by handsome lobby-level library, furnished with Brazilian mahogany shelves stacked with books on Africa; 10th floor penthouse suites with terrace have best view; have spacious baths with separate tub and shower.
Michelangelo – 135 West Street (Sandown, at Sandton Square); 011-27-011-282-7000; michelangelo.co.za; 6-story colonnade of double-and single-height arches topped with glass roof; attached to upscale end Sandton Square Shopping Centre; 242 rooms have dark-wood, clubby feel; 4th-floor rooms have balconies and “De Luxe” rooms have raised sleeping area and arched ceiling; health club is small, but pool is dramatic – round and set in rotunda; staff professional and competent; concierges particularly so.
Peech Hotel – 61 North Street (Melrose); 011-27-011-537-9797; thepeech.co.za; stylishly designed eco-hotel; 16 rooms; small pool.
Saxon Boutique Hotel & Spa – 36 Saxon Road (Sandhurst); 011-27-011-292-6000; saxon.co.za; former private estate now 24-suite hotel; ask for Villa #3.
12 Decades of Johannesburg – 286 Fox Street (Maboneng); 011-27-011-026-5601; www.12decadeshotel.co.za; artist-designed hotel in rejuvenated inner city; 12 rooms.
Westcliff – 67 Jan Smuts Avenue (Westcliff); 011-27-011-481-6000 or 800-237-1236; orient-express.com; occupies hillside acres in north Johannesburg suburbs; some rooms have private balconies with garden views; infinity pool overlooks zoological gardens; bougainvillea tumble over trellises; pots of lavender grace balconies; 120-rooms; best are junior suites with terraces and room 105, which has its own plunge pool; horizon pool with fine view (and 2nd pool as well), tennis court, and spa; lavish tea in Polo Bar & Lounge; main restaurant has Mediterranean cuisine.

RESTAURANTS
Assaggi – Post Office Centre, 30 Rudd Road (Illovo); 011-27-011-268-1370; Italian; try Brie and asparagus lasagna.
Attic – 24 4th Avenue (Randburg); 011-27-011-880-6102; among city’s most casual and delightful restaurants; Asian-fusion.
Café de la Vie – 6 De Beer Street (Braamfontein); 011-27-011-403-9805; bistro in original, Victorian building; pan-European comfort classics, surrounded by antiques and bric-a-brac.
Canteen – 260 Fox Street (Maboneng); 011-27-011-334-5947; artsonmain.co.za; try beer-battered fish and/or mushrooms on toast; try iced pea and mascarpone soup; lunch and supper.
Chalkboard Collaboration Cafe – 286 Fox Street (Maboneng); 011-27-087-830-0445; thebioscope.co.za; attached to independent cinema; known for craft beers.
Cube Tasting Kitchen – 17 4th Avenue (Randburg); 011-27-082-422-8158; www.cubekitchen.co.za; intimate restaurant that serves multicourse tasting menus based on colors and textures; BYOB.
DW Eleven-13 – Jan Smuts & Bompass Street (Dunkeld West, at Dunkeld West Shopping Centre); 011-27-011-341-0663; www.dw11-13.co.za; airy, contemporary, reasonably comfortable modern setting; short menu that changes regularly and seasonally; emphasis on South African ingredients.
Gingko – 61 Dundalk Avenue (Parkview); 011-27-011-486-3361; gingko.co.za; less carnivorous than average South African restaurant; try iced pea soup with mascarpone and/or dark chocolate torte.
Thomas Maxwell Bistro – 140 11th Street (Parkmore); 011-27-011-784-1575; thomasmaxwell.co.za; soho-style bistro; try rabbit risotto.
Salvationcafe – 44 Stanley Avenue East (Milpark); 011-27-011-482-7795; salvationcafe.co.za; global breakfast menu.
Narina Trogon – 81 De Korte Street (Braamfontein); 011-27-011-339-6645; narinatrogon.com; elegant garden and roof-top party venue; eclectic menu.
Troyeville Hotel – 25 Bezuidenhout Street (Troyeville); 011-27-011-402-7709; troyevillehotel.co.za; “Portuguese messhall”; actually among Jo’burg’s more memorable dining experiences.
Restaurant at Monarch Hotel – 167 Oxford Road (Rosebank); 011-27-011-341-2000; monarchhotels.co.za; arts hangout; try monkfish with cinnamon and saffron.
Wombles – 17 3rd Avenue (Parktown North); 011-27-011-880-2470; womebles.co.za; with dark wood beams décor, lodge-like feel; heavy on meats.

SERVICES
Main Street Walks – 264 Fox Street (Maboneng); 011-27-072-880-9583; www.mainstreetwalks.co.za; gives Johannesburg Central Business District tours.

SHOPPING
African Craft Market – Craddock Avenue at Baker Street (Rosebank); 011-27-011-442-4488; craft.co.za; traditional market by Mall of Rosebank; requires scouring for finds.
African Queen Arts – 147 Corlett Drive (Bramley); 011-27-071-679-3869, 011-27-072-311-7083, or 011-27-082-211-8798; africanqueenarts.com; African fine arts dealer.
Amatuli Fine Art – 6 Desmond Street (Kramerville); 011-27-011-024-4686; 20 year-old store recently moved to 3-story location; African decorative items and furnishings.
Art Africa – 62 Tyrone Avenue (Parkview); 011-27-011-486-2052; tiny craft emporium on street filled with cafes and gift-shops.
Circle on Jellicoe – 2 Jellicoe Avenue (Rosebank); 011-27-011-788-4805; circaonjellicoe.co.za; multimedia gallery designed to resemble Zulu livestock enclosure.
Co-Op – 68 Juta Street (Braamfontein); 011-27-011-023-0336; co-opjoburg.com; multi-room art space.
Dish – 38 6th Street (Parkville); 011-27-011-447-1071; dishmosaic.co.za; contemporary, handmade ceramics covered in mosaics.
Dokter and Misses – 44 Stanley Avenue (Milbank, at 44 Stanley Warehouse Complex); 011-27-011-025-2469; dokterandmisses.com; clever home items.
Goodman Gallery – 163 Jan Smuts Avenue (Parkwood); 011-27-011-788-1113; goodman-gallery.com; represents many of South Africa’s top artists.
David Krut Projects – 140 Jan Smuts Avenue (Parkwood); 011-27-011-447-0627; davidkrutprojects.com; small gallery.
Objekt – 32 7th Avenue (Parkville); 011-27-011-447-6005; object.co.za; South African designers; little bit kitschy.
Neighbourgoods – 73 Juta Street (Braamfontein); 011-27-011-403-0413; neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za; Saturdays from 9 a.m.-3 p.m.; indoor market with beer garden tables and stalls selling everything from food to goods.
Le Petit Cochon – Rivonia Road at 1st Avenue (Rivonia); 011-27-082-511-0202; petitcochon.co.az; artisan deli with great cheeses and pates.
Everard Read Gallery – 6 Jellicoe Avenue (Rosebank); 011-27-011-788-4805; everard-read.co.za; founded in 1912; among South Africa’s most important contemporary and fine art sources.
Kim Sacks Gallery – 153 Jan Smuts Avenue (Parkwood); 011-27-011-447-5804; gallery-store; museum-quality furniture, glassware, jewelry, pottery, sculptures, and textiles.
Willowlamp – 6 De Beer Street (Braamfontein); 011-27-011-403-6714; willowlamp.com; custom-designed, beaded home accessories.
Wizards Vintage – 44 Stanley Avenue (Milbank, at 44 Stanley Warehouse Complex); 011-27-011-025-3056; twitter.com/Annabelle1303; designer vintage.

SIGHTS & SITES
Apartheid Museum – Northern Parkway (Ormonde, at Gold Reef Road); 011-27-011-309-4700; apartheidmuseum.org; visitors randomly assigned race prior to entry and segregated accordingly.
Bioscope Cinema – 286 Fox Street (Maboneng); 011-27-087-830-0445; thebioscope.co.za; independent cinema.
Coca Cola Park (Ellis Park) – 44 Staib Street (Doornfontein); 011-27-011-402-8644; www.ellispark.co.za; rugby.
FNB Park – Soccer City Avenue (Nasrec); 011-27-011-247-5300; www.stadiummanagement.co.za; soccer.
44 Stanley Warehouse Complex – 44 Stanley Avenue (Milbank); 011-27-011-482-4444; www.44stanley.co.za/shop.asp; restaurant and shopping complex.
Sterkfontein Caves – off R563 Hekpoort Road (Sterkfontein); 011-27-014-577-9000; www.maropeng.co.za or cradleofhumankind.co.za‎; World Heritage site; worth visit to see caves.
Wits Art Museum – Jorissen Street (Braamfontein, at Bertha Street); 011-27-011-717-1365; wits.ac.za; wide-ranging African art collection housed in 3 different, improbably elegant, repurposed buildings (former car dealer, dental school, and gas station); 54' sq.

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