Saturday, July 9, 2011

JOHANNESBURG

(includes Braamfontein, Randburg & Sterkfontein)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA

De La Creme Melville – 4th Avenue & 7th Street (Melville-Randburg); 011-27-011-726-7716; joburg.co.za/cafe-de-la-creme; some of city’s best bread & cakes; also serves breakfasts, burgers & sandwiches, as well as heavier main meals such as bobotie (delicately flavored curry with beaten egg topping baked to crust) & grills; large windows on all sides from where can watch street.

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Bassline – 10 Henry Nxumalo Street (Newtown); 011-27-87-802-0435; bassline.co.za; widely seen as city’s best live music space; hip-hop, jazz & reggae.
Kitchener’s Carvery Bar – 71 Juta Street (Braamfontein); 011-27-011-403-0166; in what used to be grand colonial hotel; now hipster central; by day, popular pub, known for burgers, fish ’n’ chips & vast choice of drinks served in vintage surrounds; by night, DJs spin soul, funk & electro.
Sophiatown Bar Lounge – Rahima Moosa (Newtown); 011-27-011-836-5999; joburg.co.za/sophiatown-bar-lounge; where musicians like Hugh Masekela & Miriam Makeba honed their crafts; retro-chic; live jazz on Thursdays.

HOTELS
Four Seasons Hotel Westcliff – 67 Jan Smuts Avenue (Westcliff); 011-27-011-481-6000; fourseasons.com/johannesburg; occupies hillside acres in north Johannesburg suburbs; some rooms have private balconies with garden views; infinity pool overlooks zoological gardens; bougainvillea tumble over trellises; pots of lavender grace balconies; 120-rooms; best are junior suites with terraces; room 105 has own plunge pool; horizon pool with fine view (& 2nd pool as well), tennis court, & spa.
Michelangelo – 135 West Street (Sandown, at Sandton Square); 011-27-011-282-7000; michelangelo.co.za; 6-story colonnade of double-and single-height arches topped with glass roof; attached to upscale Sandton Square Shopping Centre; 242 rooms have dark-wood, clubby but down-at-heels feel; 4th-floor rooms have balconies & “De Luxe” rooms have raised sleeping area & arched ceiling; health club is small, but pool is dramatic – round and set in rotunda; staff professional & competent; concierges particularly so.
Monarch Hotel – 167 Oxford Road (Rosebank); 011-27-011-341-2000; monarchhotels.co.za; opposite Rosebank Gautrain Station & 2-minute walk from Zone; old-world hotel in 1930s building with wrought iron entrance; refined rooms feature flat-screen TVs & DVD players; some have free-standing tubs; suites add free Wi-Fi & heated floors; elegant lobby decorated with local artwork offers hot drinks & light snacks; cigar lounge & polished restaurant.
Peech Hotel – 61 North Street (Melrose); 011-27-011-537-9797; thepeech.co.za; stylishly designed eco-hotel; 16 rooms; small pool.
Saxon Boutique Hotel & Spa – 36 Saxon Road (Sandhurst); 011-27-011-292-6000; saxon.co.za; former private estate now 24-suite hotel; ask for Villa #3.
12 Decades of Johannesburg – 286 Fox Street (Maboneng); 011-27-011-026-5601; 12decadeshotel.co.za; artist-designed hotel in rejuvenated inner city; 12 rooms.

RESTAURANTS
Canteen – 260 Fox Street (Maboneng); 011-27-011-334-5947; joburg.co.za/the-canteen; try beer-battered fish and/or mushrooms on toast; try iced pea & mascarpone soup; lunch & supper.
DW Eleven-13 – Jan Smuts & Bompass Street (Dunkeld West, at Dunkeld West Shopping Centre); 011-27-011-341-0663; dw11-13.co.za; airy, contemporary, reasonably comfortable modern setting; short menu that changes regularly & seasonally; emphasis on South African ingredients.
Gingko – 61 Dundalk Avenue (Parkview); 011-27-011-486-3361; gingko.co.za; less carnivorous than average South African restaurant; try iced pea soup with mascarpone and/or dark chocolate torte.
Grei – 36 Saxon Road (Sandhurst, at Saxon Hotel); 011-27-011-292-6000; saxon.co.za/restaurants-bars/grei; attentive & exclusive; worth special trip.
Restaurant at Monarch Hotel – 167 Oxford Road (Rosebank); 011-27-011-341-2000; monarchhotels.co.za; arts hangout; try monkfish with cinnamon & saffron.
Salvationcafe – 44 Stanley Avenue East (Milpark); 011-27-011-482-7795; salvationcafe.co.za; global breakfast menu.
Troyeville Hotel – 25 Albertina Sisulu Road (Troyeville); 011-27-011-402-7709; troyevillehotel.co.za; “Portuguese messhall”; actually among Jo’burg’s more memorable dining experiences.
Wombles Steakhouse Restaurant – 88 Hobart Road (Bryanston, at Hobart Grove Shopping Centre); 011-27-011-463-8558; womebles.co.za; with dark wood beams décor, lodge-like feel.

SERVICES
Curiocity Joburg – 302 Fox Street (Jeppestown); 011-27-011-614-0163; curiocity.africa; private tours of landmarks & public art exhibits.
DlalaNje – 1 Lily Avenue (Berea); 011-27-011-402-2373; dlalanje.org; tours of less-visited areas, like Ponte City tower, which was hijacked by gangs in 1990s & used today as performance space.
MainStreet Walka Tours – 302 Fox Street (Maboneng); 011-27-011-614-0163; mainstreetwalks.co.za; gives Johannesburg Central Business District tours.

SHOPPING
African Craft Market of Rosebank – Cradock Avenue at Baker Street (Rosebank); 011-27-072-614-5506; craft.co.za; traditional market by Mall of Rosebank; requires scouring for finds.
African Queen Arts & Crafts – 42 Northway Street (Sandton); 011-27-011-021-8138; joburg.co.za/african-queen; African fine arts dealer.
Amatuli Fine Art – 6 Desmond Street (Kramerville); 011-27-011-440-5065; spacious gallery with African & Asian furniture, art & decor, plus on-site restaurant.
Art Africa – 62 Tyrone Avenue (Parkview); 011-27-011-486-2052; tiny craft emporium on street filled with cafes and gift-shops; arts & crafts from across South Africa as well as Mali, Ghana & Ivory Coast; wide range souvenir choices, carved wooden masks, beaded jewelry, or even incredible ceramics of Ardmore (ardmoreceramics.co.za).
designed to resemble Zulu livestock enclosure.
Dokter and Misses – 99 Juta Street (Braamfontein); 011-27-011-403-1024; dokterandmisses.com; clever home items.
Goodman Gallery – 163 Jan Smuts Avenue (Parkwood); 011-27-011-788-1113; goodman-gallery.com; represents many of South Africa’s top artists.
David Krut Projects – 246 Fox Street (Maboneng); 011-27-011-334-1209; davidkrutprojects.com; small gallery with bookstore.
David Krut Projects – 142 Jan Smuts Avenue (Parkwood); 011-27-011-447-0627; davidkrutprojects.com; small gallery with bookstore.
MK & Artist – 264 Fox street (Maboneng); 011-27-071-411-7788; facebook.com/pg/MK-and-Artist-1484812735086107/about/?ref=page_internal; collaborative studio that sells etchings, linocuts, woodcuts, monotypes & other prints.
Neighbourgoods – 73 Juta Street (Braamfontein); 011-27-011-403-0413; neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za; Saturdays from 9 a.m.-3 p.m.; indoor market with beer garden tables and stalls selling everything from food to goods.
Everard Read Gallery – 6 Jellicoe Avenue (Rosebank); 011-27-011-788-4805; everard-read.co.za; founded in 1912; among South Africa’s most important contemporary and fine art sources.
Kim Sacks Gallery – 153 Jan Smuts Avenue (Parkwood); 011-27-011-447-5804; kimsacks.com; museum-quality furniture, glassware, jewelry, pottery, sculptures, and textiles.

SIGHTS & SITES
Apartheid Museum – Northern Parkway (Ormonde, at Gold Reef Road); 011-27-011-309-4700; apartheidmuseum.org; visitors randomly assigned race prior to entry and segregated accordingly.
Bioscope Cinema – 286 Fox Street (Maboneng); 011-27-087-094-4195; thebioscope.co.za; independent cinema.
Coca Cola Park (Ellis Park) – 44 Staib Street (Doornfontein); 011-27-011-402-8644; ellispark.co.za; rugby.
FNB Park – Soccer City Avenue (Nasrec); 011-27-011-247-5300; stadiummanagement.co.za; soccer.
Sterkfontein Caves – off R563 Hekpoort Road (Sterkfontein); 011-27-014-577-9000; www.maropeng.co.za or cradleofhumankind.co.za‎; World Heritage site; worth visit to see caves.
Wits Art Museum – Jorissen Street (Braamfontein, at Bertha Street); 011-27-011-717-1365; wits.ac.za; wide-ranging African art collection housed in 3 different, improbably elegant, repurposed buildings (former car dealer, dental school, and gas station); 54' sq.

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