Saturday, July 16, 2011


Atti Panificio – 6 Via Drapperie; 011-39-51-233-349;; bakery that dates to 1880.
Colazione da Bianca – 1 Via Santo Stephano; 011-39-51-588-4425;; cappuccino and pastries.
Il Sorbetteria – 44 Via Castiglione; 011-39-51-233-257;; considered by many to be Italy’s best granita.
Terzi – 10/D Via Guglielmo Oberdan; 011-39-51-236-470;; perfect coffee; can stand at bar or sit at one of 4 tables in small, candy-striped back room.

Eataly – 19 Via degli Orefici; 011-39-51-095-2820;; wine bar.
Enoteca Italiana – 2/B Via Marsala; 011-39-51-235-989;; wine by glass and cheese and meat plates.
Osteria dei Sole – 1D Vicolo Ranocchi; 011-39-347-968-0171;; wine bar only but you can bring your own foods; looks like old social club with wooden bar and faded, framed photos.
S-Wine Bar – 24A Via Augusto Righi; 011-39-51-232-631; for fashionistas and students; snug, wood-beamed space in winter and outdoor tables in summer.
Zanarini – 1 Piazza Galvani; 011-39-51-222-717; appertifs and cafe.

Il Convento dei Fiori di Seta – 34/4 Via Orfeo; 011-39-51-272-039;; 10 restored rooms in convent dating to 15th Century; free wi-fi and friendly service; not far from Santo Stefano.
I Portici – 69 Via Indipendenza; 011-39-51-421-85;; in 19th Century palazzo exemplifying city’s “Liberty” (answer to Art Deco) style; excellent onsite restaurant.
Hotel Metropolitan – 6 Via dell’Orso; 011-39-51-229-393;; great central location; boutique; reasonable prices.
Hotel Porta San Mamolo – 6-8 Vicolo del Fantone; 011-39-51-583-056;; 300 years old; courtyard and winter garden.

All’Osteria Bottega – 51 Via Santa Caterina; 011-39-51-585-111; cozy space with wooden floors; try tortellini in brodo.
Cafe de Paris – 1c Piazza del Francia; 011-39-51-234-980;
I Carracci – 2 Via Alessandro Manzoni (at Grand Hotel Majestic Gia Baglioni); 011-39-51-222-049;; each lasagna individually crafted.
Ristorante di Cesari – 8 Via de’ Carbonesi; 011-39-51-237-710;; in same family since 1955; classic and updated regional food.
Eataly – 19 Via degli Orefici; 011-39-51-095-2820;
Osteria Francescana – 22 Via Stella; 011-39-59-210-118;; Michelin-starred restaurant.
Ristorante Pappagallo – 3 Via della Mercanzia; 011-39-51-232-807;; classic institutution, recently resurrected.
Serghei – 12 Via Piella; 011-39-51-233-533; among city’s most sought-after reservations, serving only 28 people nightly; regional, simple cuisine.
Tamburini – 1 Via Caprarie; 011-39-51-234-726;; among city’s most famous and oldest specialty food shops; serves up 200 wines by glass; deli.
Trattoria Anna Maria – 17A Via Belle Arti; 011-39-51-266-894;; classic setting; some of best tortellini you’ll ever have.
Trattoria “Dal Biassanot” – 16a Via Piella; 011-39-51-230-644;; revered trattoria packed well into evening.
Trattoria da Gianni a la Vecia Bulagna – 18 Via Clavature; 011-39-51-229-434; hidden down alley in market district; locals call it “da Gianni”; 2 unadorned rooms serving lunch and dinner; usual starters (e.g., tortellini in brodo) and daily specials (e.g., pumpkin gnocchi with melted cheese sauce); try Bollito misto (mixed meats boiled in rich broth) and cotechinocon purè di patate (deliciously oily sausage with mashed potatoes) with salsa verde.
Trattoria del Rosso – 30 Via Augusto Righi; 011-39-51-236-730; said to be oldest in city; vegetarian options.

Home Food – 41 Via Broccaindosso; 011-39-51-220-797;; program that allows visitors to dine with local home cooks.
La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese – 49 Via Malvasia; 011-39-51-649-1576;; cooking school.

Atti Panificio – 6 Via Drapperie; 011-39-51-233-349;; bakery that dates to 1880.
Bruno e Franco – 16 Via Guglielmo Oberdan; 011-39-51-233-692;; deli with fresh pasta station.
Eataly – 19 Via degli Orefici; 011-39-51-095-2820;; books and gourmet products emporium; wine bar and restaurant, too.
Galleria Marabini – 5 Vicolo della Neve; 011-39-51-644-7482;; in former church (1661) with original frescoes; contemporary exhibitions.
Gallery Otto – 55 Via D’Azeglio; 011-39-51-644-9845;; airy light-filled rooms in former Collegio di San Luigi dei Barnabiti (school dating back to 18th Century); modern art.
Hoffman – 23 Via Altabella; 011-39-51-223-066;; custom-made toy store; installation-like windows.
Jacqueline – 14/E via Altabella; 011-39-51-268-190; pretty bikinis, dresses, flats, and lingerie.
Simoni – 5/2a Via Drapperie; 011-39-51-231-880;; salumeria.
Tamburini – 1 Via Caprarie; 011-39-51-234-726;; among city’s most famous and oldest specialty food shops; serves up 200 wines by glass; deli.
3 Terre – 8A-B Via Guglielmo Oberdan; 011-39-51-236-028; furniture and lanterns from China, India, and Indonesia.

Church of Santo Stefano – 24 Via Santo Stefano; 011-39-51-223-256;
Due Torri – Piazza di Porta Ravegnana; located strategically at city’s ancient entry point re Via Emilia; at 12th Century’s end, there were 100; perhaps dozen have survived fires, lightning, and wars.
Mercato di Mezzo – area between Vias delle Caprarie, Clavature, Drapperie, and Pescherie; food market.
Museo Morandi – 6 Piazza Maggiore (14th Century Palazzo d’Accursio’s top floor); 011-39-51-203-332;; city’s most famous contemporary artist was Giorgio Morandi, who died in 1964.
Santuario della Madonna di San Luca – 36 Via di San Luca; 011-39-338-228-9939;; follow portici (covered terracotta arcades); this basilica sits atop metropolis; begin at Meloncello gateway and wind up hill; half-hour trek is good “Stairmaster” workout; great views; basilica is UNESCO World Heritage site; painting of St. Mary, allegedly by St. Luke “Evangelist.”
Via Guglielmo Oberdan – bustling retail neighborhood once was Jewish ghetto; home to some of city’s most charming shops.

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