BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Atti Panificio – 6 Via Drapperie; 011-39-51-233-349; paoloatti.com; bakery that dates to 1880.
●Colazione da Bianca – 1 Via Santo Stephano; 011-39-51-588-4425; colazionedabianca.it; cappuccino and pastries.
●Il Sorbetteria – 44 Via Castiglione; 011-39-51-233-257; www.lasorbetteria.it; considered by many to be Italy’s best granita.
●Terzi – 10/D Via Guglielmo Oberdan; 011-39-51-236-470; caffeterzi.it; perfect coffee; can stand at bar or sit at one of 4 tables in small, candy-striped back room.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Eataly – 19 Via degli Orefici; 011-39-51-095-2820; eataly.it; wine bar.
●Enoteca Italiana – 2/B Via Marsala; 011-39-51-235-989; enotecaitaliana.it; wine by glass and cheese and meat plates.
●Osteria dei Sole – 1D Vicolo Ranocchi; 011-39-347-968-0171; osteriadeiole.it; wine bar only but you can bring your own foods; looks like old social club with wooden bar and faded, framed photos.
●S-Wine Bar – 24A Via Augusto Righi; 011-39-51-232-631; for fashionistas and students; snug, wood-beamed space in winter and outdoor tables in summer.
●Zanarini – 1 Piazza Galvani; 011-39-51-222-717; appertifs and cafe.
HOTELS
●Il Convento dei Fiori di Seta – 34/4 Via Orfeo; 011-39-51-272-039; silkflowersnunnery.com; 10 restored rooms in convent dating to 15th Century; free wi-fi and friendly service; not far from Santo Stefano.
●I Portici – 69 Via Indipendenza; 011-39-51-421-85; iporticihotel.com; in 19th Century palazzo exemplifying city’s “Liberty” (answer to Art Deco) style; excellent onsite restaurant.
●Hotel Metropolitan – 6 Via dell’Orso; 011-39-51-229-393; hotelmetropolitan.com; great central location; boutique; reasonable prices.
●Hotel Porta San Mamolo – 6-8 Vicolo del Fantone; 011-39-51-583-056; hotel-portasanmamolo.it; 300 years old; courtyard and winter garden.
RESTAURANTS
●All’Osteria Bottega – 51 Via Santa Caterina; 011-39-51-585-111; cozy space with wooden floors; try tortellini in brodo.
●Cafe de Paris – 1c Piazza del Francia; 011-39-51-234-980; cafedeparisbologna.org.
●I Carracci – 2 Via Alessandro Manzoni (at Grand Hotel Majestic Gia Baglioni); 011-39-51-222-049; grandhotelmajestic.duetorrihotels.com; each lasagna individually crafted.
●Ristorante di Cesari – 8 Via de’ Carbonesi; 011-39-51-237-710; da-cesari.it; in same family since 1955; classic and updated regional food.
●Eataly – 19 Via degli Orefici; 011-39-51-095-2820; eataly.it.
●Osteria Francescana – 22 Via Stella; 011-39-59-210-118; osteriafrancescana.it; Michelin-starred restaurant.
●Ristorante Pappagallo – 3 Via della Mercanzia; 011-39-51-232-807; alpappagallo.it; classic institutution, recently resurrected.
●Serghei – 12 Via Piella; 011-39-51-233-533; among city’s most sought-after reservations, serving only 28 people nightly; regional, simple cuisine.
●Tamburini – 1 Via Caprarie; 011-39-51-234-726; tamburini.com; among city’s most famous and oldest specialty food shops; serves up 200 wines by glass; deli.
●Trattoria Anna Maria – 17A Via Belle Arti; 011-39-51-266-894; trattoriannamaria.com; classic setting; some of best tortellini you’ll ever have.
●Trattoria “Dal Biassanot” – 16a Via Piella; 011-39-51-230-644; dalbiassanot.it; revered trattoria packed well into evening.
●Trattoria da Gianni a la Vecia Bulagna – 18 Via Clavature; 011-39-51-229-434; hidden down alley in market district; locals call it “da Gianni”; 2 unadorned rooms serving lunch and dinner; usual starters (e.g., tortellini in brodo) and daily specials (e.g., pumpkin gnocchi with melted cheese sauce); try Bollito misto (mixed meats boiled in rich broth) and cotechinocon purè di patate (deliciously oily sausage with mashed potatoes) with salsa verde.
●Trattoria del Rosso – 30 Via Augusto Righi; 011-39-51-236-730; said to be oldest in city; vegetarian options.
SERVICES
●Home Food – 41 Via Broccaindosso; 011-39-51-220-797; homefood.it; program that allows visitors to dine with local home cooks.
●La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese – 49 Via Malvasia; 011-39-51-649-1576; lavecchiascuola.com; cooking school.
SHOPPING
●Atti Panificio – 6 Via Drapperie; 011-39-51-233-349; paoloatti.com; bakery that dates to 1880.
●Bruno e Franco – 16 Via Guglielmo Oberdan; 011-39-51-233-692; la-salumeria.it; deli with fresh pasta station.
●Eataly – 19 Via degli Orefici; 011-39-51-095-2820; eataly.it; books and gourmet products emporium; wine bar and restaurant, too.
●Galleria Marabini – 5 Vicolo della Neve; 011-39-51-644-7482; galleriamarabini.it; in former church (1661) with original frescoes; contemporary exhibitions.
●Gallery Otto – 55 Via D’Azeglio; 011-39-51-644-9845; otto-gallery.it; airy light-filled rooms in former Collegio di San Luigi dei Barnabiti (school dating back to 18th Century); modern art.
●Hoffman – 23 Via Altabella; 011-39-51-223-066; Hoffmann.it; custom-made toy store; installation-like windows.
●Jacqueline – 14/E via Altabella; 011-39-51-268-190; pretty bikinis, dresses, flats, and lingerie.
●Simoni – 5/2a Via Drapperie; 011-39-51-231-880; salumeriasimoni.it; salumeria.
●Tamburini – 1 Via Caprarie; 011-39-51-234-726; tamburini.com; among city’s most famous and oldest specialty food shops; serves up 200 wines by glass; deli.
●3 Terre – 8A-B Via Guglielmo Oberdan; 011-39-51-236-028; furniture and lanterns from China, India, and Indonesia.
SIGHTS & SITES
●Church of Santo Stefano – 24 Via Santo Stefano; 011-39-51-223-256; abbaziasantostefano.it.
●Due Torri – Piazza di Porta Ravegnana; located strategically at city’s ancient entry point re Via Emilia; at 12th Century’s end, there were 100; perhaps dozen have survived fires, lightning, and wars.
●Mercato di Mezzo – area between Vias delle Caprarie, Clavature, Drapperie, and Pescherie; food market.
●Museo Morandi – 6 Piazza Maggiore (14th Century Palazzo d’Accursio’s top floor); 011-39-51-203-332; museomorandi.it; city’s most famous contemporary artist was Giorgio Morandi, who died in 1964.
●Santuario della Madonna di San Luca – 36 Via di San Luca; 011-39-338-228-9939; sanlucabo.org; follow portici (covered terracotta arcades); this basilica sits atop metropolis; begin at Meloncello gateway and wind up hill; half-hour trek is good “Stairmaster” workout; great views; basilica is UNESCO World Heritage site; painting of St. Mary, allegedly by St. Luke “Evangelist.”
●Via Guglielmo Oberdan – bustling retail neighborhood once was Jewish ghetto; home to some of city’s most charming shops.
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