Wednesday, August 3, 2011

TURIN

(includes Rivoli)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Caffe Al Bicerin – 5 Piazza della Consolata; 011-39-436-9325; bicerin.it; bicerin is layered coffee, foamy milk, and hot chocolate concoction; dates back to 1736; 8 marble tables and dark wood boiserie; try drink with moist hazelnut cake.
Grom – 1D Piazza Pietro Paleocapa; 011-39-011-511-9067; grom.it; ice cream chain.
Alberto Marchetti – 24 bis Corso Vittorio Emanuele II; 011-39-011-839-0879; albertomarchetti.it; artisanal, only-in-Turin ice cream.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Baratti & Milano – 27 Piazza Castello; 011-39-011-440-7138; barattiemilano.it; refined café; for aperitifs.
Beach – 18-22 Murazzi del Po; 011-39-011-888-777; cafe by day; nightclub by night.
Caffe Mulassano – 15 Piazza Castello; 011-39-011-547-990; caffemulassano.com; aperitifs.
One Apple Concept Bar – 1 Via Lovera di Maria; 011-39-011-1971-9445; oneappletorino.it; sophisticated but trendy; for late night.
Pastis – 9 Piazza Emanuele Filiberto (Quadrilatero Romano); 011-39-11-521-1085; boldly painted cafe-bar where chic Torinese office workers go for aperitifs.
Societe Lutece – 21 Piazza Carlo Emanuele II; 011-39-011-887-644; societe-lutece.it; cozy bar on grand square in Turin’s historic center’s heart.
Tre Galli – 25 Via Sant’Agostino; 011-39-011-521-6027; 3galli.com; sophisticated wine bar.
Zonk – 20 Via Gian Francesco Bellezia; 011-39-011-521-7568 or 011-39-335-657-4487 (cell); zonktorino.it; funky, as in 1970s Los Angeles.



HOTELS
Grand Hotel Sitea – 35 Via Carlo Alberto (centrally located near Piazza San Carlo); 011-39-011-517-0171; grandhotelsitea.it; 120 spacious rooms with classical furnishings and white marble baths; continental breakfast included.
Hotel Boston – 70 Via Massena; 011-39-011-150-0359; hotelbostontorino.it; moderately priced; near city center; 91 unique rooms and funky lobby.
Le Meridien Turin Art + Tech – 262 Via Nizza; 011-39-011-664-2000; lemeridien.com/turin; 143 loft-style guest rooms with large windows, plasma televisions, and Philippe Starck/Gio Ponti furniture.
Town House 70 – 70 Via XX Settembre (near Piazza Castello); 011-39-011-1970-0003; townhouse.it; style-conscious boutique hotel; 48 modern rooms and suites featuring minimalist, simple décor; includes breakfast.



RESTAURANTS
Baratti & Milano – 27 Piazza Castello; 011-39-011-561-3060; barattiemilano.it; chocolate and pastry; also café.
Combal.Zero – Piazzale Mafalda di Savoia (Rivoli Turin); 011-39-011-956-5225; combal.org; 2 Michelin stars; expensive and luxurious, with tables so far apart they seem in different time zones; food not absurd.
Ristorante Consorzio – 23 Via Monte di Pieta; 011-39-011-276-7661; ristoranteconsorzio.com; convivial, “Slow Food” stand-out; reservations essential.
Del Cambio – 2 Piazza Carignano; 011-39-011-546-690; delcambio.it; regularly patronized by Count Cavour in his day, 1st opened in 1757; classic Piedmont cuisine still dominates; must have reservations.
Eataly – 230 Via Nizza; 011-39-011-950-6811; eatly.it; enormous food emporium with 9 eating areas; affiliated with “Slow Food” movement.
Caffe Mulassano – 15 Piazza Castello; 011-39-011-547-990; caffemulassano.com; for lunch, in particular; nibble on tramezzini, crustless sandwiches cafe claims to have invented; few tables.
Pastis – 9 Piazza Emanuele Filiberto (Quadrilatero Romano); 011-39-011-521-1085; boldly painted cafe-bar where chic Torinese office workers go for 2-hour lunch break; try spicy meatballs.
Sotto la Mole – 9 Via Montebello; 011-39-011-817-9398; sottolamole.eu; regional cuisine.
Trait d’Union – 4 Via Stampatori; 011-39-011-561-2295; modern regional cuisine in stunning old villa in Quadrilatero Romano, Turin’s most trendy neighborhood.
Tre Galli – 25 Via San Agostino; 011-39-011-521-6027; 3galli.com; 1 of 1st restaurants to open in Quadrilatero Romano; excellent pastas and salads at affordable prices.



SHOPPING
Baratti & Milano – 27 Piazza Castello; 011-39-011-561-3060; barattiemilano.it; chocolate and pastry; also café.
Brodo – 14 Via Palazzo di Citta; 011-39-011-1991-2997; ilbrodo.it; small shop that sells well-priced pottery and leather goods.
Guido Gobino – 1 Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange; 011-39-011-566-0707; guidogobino.it; chocolate shop.
Kristina Ti – 18 Via Maria Vittoria; 011-39-011-837-170; Kristina.it; women’s wear.
Verdelilla – 27 Corso Re Umberto; 011-39-011-517-2701; verdelilla.it; discreet boutique in inner courtyard, hidden behind stained glass gate.



SIGHTS & SITES
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Piazza San Giovanni; 011-39-011-570-5394; contains black marble Chapel of Holy Shroud.
Holy Shroud Museum – 28 Via San Domenico; 011-39-011-436-5832; sindone.it; shroud of Turin.
Museo delle Antichita Egizie – 6 Via Accademia delle Scienze; 011-39-056-17-776; museoegizio.it; world’s largest and most comprehensive Egyptian antiquities collection outside Cairo’s Egyptian Museum.
Museo Nazionale dell'Automobile – 40 Corso Unita d'Italia; 011-39-011-677-666; museoauto.it; automobile museum.
Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano – 5 Via Accademia delle Scienze; 011-39-011-562-1147; museorisorgimentotorino.it; explores history of Italy’s union as one nation, of which Turin was unified kingdom’s 1st capital (in 1862).
National Museum of Cinema (Mole Antonelliana) – 20 Via Montebello; 011-39-011-812-5658; museonazionaledelcinema.it; city’s symbol; begun in 1862 by Alessandro Antonelli as Jewish temple; after period of stop, work began again in 1878; world’s tallest brick building; dome on top has city’s best view.
Palazzo Madama (Civic Museum of Ancient Art) – Piazza Castello; 011-39-011-443-3501; palazzomadamatorino.it; House of Savoy palace; museum with extensive collection; worth special trip.
Palazzo Reale – 1 Piazzetta Reale; 011-39-011-436-1455; comune.torino.it; House of Savoy palace; sober building with 17th Century facade designed by Amadeo di Castellamonte; make sure to see “Scissors Stairs” (by Filippo Juvara) and royal arms.
Parco del Valentino – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio Turin; riverside park; great for strolling; vast and romantic, containing impressive botanical garden, castle and Borgo Medievale (medieval village built for 1884 Turin International Exhibition).
Piazza San Carlo – town center; city’s most beautiful square, with baroque architecture and sidewalk cafes and shops; home to “Caval d’Brons” (bronze statuary) and renowned for its imperial grandure and tranquility; try walking around square and then up Via Roma under its grand porticoes to Piazza Castello.

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