CAPE COD (includes Dennis, Elizabeth Islands [Cuttyhunk & Gosnold Islands], New Bedford, Provincetown [Eastham & North Truro] & Yarmouth Port)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
●Ice Cream Smuggler – 716 Main Street (Dennis); 508-385-5307; icecreamsmuggler.com; handmade ice cream.
Hotels
●Avalon Inn – 4 Powerhouse Road (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-997-8388 or 361-774-6262 (cell); cuttyhunkinn.com; 7 rooms in former 1909 mansion.
●Crowne Pointe Inn – 82 Bradford Street (Provincetown); 508-487-6767; crownepointe.com; 140 year-old inn.
●Crow’s Nest Resort & Cottages – 496 Shore Road (North Truro); 508-487-9031 or 800-499-9799; caperesort.com; modestly furnished suites with full kitchens.
●Cuttyhunk Fishing Club – 2 Road to Plains (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-997-0858; cuttyhunkfishingclub-bb.com; 8 rooms (some suites have private baths); all guests have grill space and kitchen access.
●8 Dyer Hotel – 8 Dyer Street (Provincetown); 508-487-0880; 8dyer.com; boutique.
●Inn at Oaks – 3085 State Highway (Provincetown); 508-225-1886 or 877-255-1886; innattheoaks.com; in classic Victorian house (formerly sea captain’s home); rooms are small and not all have bathrooms.
●Salt House Inn – 6 Conwell Street (Provincetown); 508-487-1911; salthouseinn.com; bright, white rooms with nautical touches; meticulous service; historic building just minutes from Commercial Street.
Restaurants
●Bart’s Cart – Fisherman’s Pier (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-758-6653; bartscart.com; simple, outdoor grill stand; good breakfasts, in particular; lunch specials.
●Borges Shack – Fish Dock (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-999-1263; for steamed lobster dinner to go; call to arrange in advance.
●Cuttyhunk Shellfish Farms’ Raw Bar – Fish Dock (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-990-1317; cuttyhunkshellfish.com; couple who run also serve “Lobsters on Lawn,” traditional lobster bake, on select nights; call for information.
●Soprano’s – Frog Pond (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-992-7530; cuttyhunk.net/images/sopranos2009a.pdf; island’s only sit-down restaurant, weather permitting; calzone and pizza; also, newsstand that sells New York Times.
Services
●Captain Bruce Borges’ Charters – Carolyn’s Way Road (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-999-1263; cuttyhunkfishingcharters.com; lobstering.
●Cuttyhunk Ferry Company – 66B State Pier (New Bedford); 508-992-0200; cuttyhunkferryco.com; regular transport to islands.
●Cuttyhunk Water Taxi – 52 Fisherman’s Wharf (New Bedford); 508-789-3250; cuttyhunkwatertaxi.com; more frequent service than ferry for up to 5 passengers.
●Linesider Fishing Charter – 28 Broadway (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-971-1388 or 508-991-7352; linesider.com; bass and bluefish guides.
●Lisa G. Charters – 23 Broadway (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-965-7362; cuttyhunkflyfishing.com; Captain Russell Wright specializes in fly-fishing and spin-casting.
●Pete’s Place Rentals – Cuttyhunk Island; 508-997-6387; petesplacerentals.com; cottages and houses for rent.
●Sea Hawk Charters – 10 Shore Road (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-802-8633; cuttyhunkcharters.com; bass and bluefish.
Sights & Sites
●Cuttyhunk Historical Society & Museum of Elizabeth Islands – 23 Tower Hill Road (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-984-4611 (summers only); cuttyhunkhistoricalsociety.org.
●Bartholomew Gosnold Monument – Gosnold Island; not easy place to visit; bike through swamp and thick woods, hike along very rocky beach, swim through marsh, and then climb up on Gosnold Island; Gosnold discovered Cuttyhunk in 1602 and then went on to visit Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, and eventually Maine; 1st European to build house in New England and founded 1st settlement (lasted only few weeks); 1902 marked 300th anniversary so island residents built monument; rough stone tower about 70' high with few windows and door, now sealed shut.
●Elephant House (Edward Gorey) – 8 Strawberry Lane (YARMOUTH PORT); 508-362-3909; edwardgoreyhouse.org; featuring exhibits re personal and professional life, as well as legacy of supporting animal welfare causes.
●Lookout Hill – Cuttyhunk Island; highest point on island; tremendous views over Cape Cod.
●West End Pond – Cuttyhunk Island; where Gosnold Island is.
MARTHA’S VINEYARD (includes Aquinnah, Chilmark, Edgartown, Menemsha, Oaks Bluff, Tisbury, Vineyard Haven & West Tisbury)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
●Gourmet Cake & Bakery – 5 Post Office Square (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-3688; mvbakery.com; after 7:30 pm, “back door donuts”; famous for apple fritters and Boston cream; prepare for lines.
Bars & Nightclubs
●Black Dog Tavern – 3 Water Street (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-9223; theblackdog.com; old stand-by.
●Offshore Ale Co. – 30 Kennebec Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-2626; offshoreale.com.
●Ritz Café – 4 Circuit Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-9851.
Beaches
●Lobsterville – 2 Lobsterville Road (Aquinnah); 508-645-2300; mvol.com/beaches; in quaint, quiet place; even in summer, not crowded and in off-season you seldom will see another soul; very little parking (little there is is restricted for residents only); great place to stop when biking to great lighthouse; beach and water are protected by land and shallow so warmer than many other beaches but, realistically speaking, still cold as hell; beach has lots of rocks that seem to come and go but sandy areas can usually be found; great views in every direction; during colder months, wind frequently howls through area, agitating water into angry whitecaps and giving impression of pristine and wild place; beautiful and ethereal.
●Lucy Vincent Beach – Lucy Vincent Beach Road (Chilmark); 508-645-2777; mvol.com/beaches; open only to Chilmark residents and those staying in town.
●Moshup (Gayhead Public Beach) – Moshup Trail (Aquinnah); 508-645-2300; mvol.com/beaches; extends from Philbin Beach to just before cliffs; beach is approximately 10-minute walk from parking lot on cleared trail; $15 parking fee in summer; all but one person should get off at wooden boardwalk along road with lunches, towels, toys, and so on, while remaining person heads back up to park; in season you can also take shuttle buses from down-island to parking lot at Aquinnah Cliffs and walk to beach; although it is against law, nudists tend to gravitate here; restrooms are near parking lot.
●Philbin – Moshup Trail (Aquinnah); 508-645-2300; mvol.com/beaches; resident parking only, however beach open to public.
Hotels
●Beach Plum Inn – 50 Beach Plum Lane (Menemsha); 508-645-9454; beachpluminn.com.
●Hob Knob Boutique – 128 Main Street (Edgartown); 508-627-9510 or 800-696-2723; hobknob.com.
●Kinsman House – 278 Main Street (Tisbury); 508-693-2311; mvy.com/Guest-Houses/Kinsman-House; owner-run 1880s house 4 blocks from ferry terminal; once rectory for church across street; each of 3 guest rooms has queen bed, 2 rooms share bathroom; breakfast not included.
●Lambert’s Cove Inn – 90 Manaquayak Road (West Tisbury); 508-693-2298 or 866-526-2466; lambertscoveinn.com; each room individually decorated; pool and private beach.
●Menemsha Inn & Cottages – North Road (Menemsha); 508-645-2521; menemshainn.com; on island’s western part; lots of flowers and stonewalls; short walk to beach.
●Oak Bluffs Inn – 64 Circuit Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-7171 or 800-955-6235; oakbluffsinn.com; homey Victorian inn on Oaks Bluff’s main drag; prominent cupola, from which guests can enjoy 360-degree view; some rooms tad small, but others are spacious and even have comfortable seating areas; all with ceiling fans.
●1720 House – 152 Main Street (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-6407; 1720house.com; 6 rooms.
Restaurants
●Art Cliff Diner – 39 Beach Road (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-1224; facebook.com/pages/ARTCLIFF-DINER/111637175527597; expect best diner food you’ve ever had; quirky establishment with unreliable hours, especially off-season (so call to be sure open); just-caught fish-of-day served with herbs from chef’s garden or simple burger cooked just right; homemade desserts; food truck in restaurant parking lot on Thursday-Sunday evenings in summer and serves burgers, hand-cut fries, and falafels straight from portable grill.
●Beach Plum Inn – 50 Beach Plum Lane (Menemsha); 508-645-9454; beachpluminn.com.
●Bite – 29 Basin Road (Menemsha); 508-645-9239; thebitemenemsha.com; fried seafood; Vernon Jordan and Henry Louis Gates are regulars.
●Black Dog Tavern – 3 Water Street (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-9223; theblackdog.com; old stand-by.
●Giordano’s Restaurant & Clam Bar – 18 Lake Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-0184; giosmv.com; Italian.
●Grace Church – 36 Woodlawn Avenue (Vineyard Haven, at Williams Street); 508-693-0332; gracechurchmv.com; from 4:30-7:30 p.m. on Fridays in summer, $13 lobber rolls.
●Hooked – 15 Island Inn Road (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-6093; hookedmv.com; casual fish house featuring locally caught fresh fish, oyster bar, and fish house favorites.
●Larsen’s Fish Market – 56 Basin Road (Menemsha); 508-645-2680; sits on Tranquil Dutcher Dock; bring your own blankets, stemware, and candles; famous for takeaway so order by 6:30 pm.
●Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery – 5 Post Office Square (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-3688; mvbakery.com.
●Menemsha Fish Market – 54 Basin Road (Chilmark); 508-645-2282; menemshafishmarket.net; crab cake sandwiches and lobster bisque.
●Side Car – 16 Kennebec Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-6261; sidecarcafeandbar.com; good, bistro-style restaurant.
●Slice of Life – 50 Circuit Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-3838; sliceoflifemv.com; good breakfasts.
●Sophia’s One Stop – 199 Upper Main Street (Edgartown); 508-627-4661; sophiasmart.com; Brazilian buffet in back.
●State Road Restaurant – 688 State Road (North Tisbury); 508-693-8582; stateroadmv.com; in dry community; local ingredients, American cuisine.
●Sweet Life Café – 63 Circuit Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-696-0200; sweetlifemv.com; very pretty.
Shopping
●Allen Farm Sheep & Wool Co. – 421 South Road (Chilmark); 508-645-9064.
●Bunch of Grapes – 44 Main Street (Tisbury); 508-693-2291; bunchofgrapes.com; bookstore.
●Chilmark Chocolates – 19 State Road (Chilmark); 508-645-3013; marthasvineyard.patch.com/listings/chilmark-chocolates; call ahead for hours; made by persons with disabilities.
●LeRoux at Home – 62 Main Street (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-0030; lerouxkitchen.com; kitchen supplies.
●Midnight Farm – 18 Water-Cromwell Lane (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-1997; midnightfarm.net; owned by Carly Simon; eclectic clothing and gifts.
●Nochi – 29 Main Street (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-9074; nochimv.com; blankets and robes.
●West Tisbury Farmers Market – 1067 State Road (West Tisbury, Old Agricultural Hall).
●Jack Wills – 1 South Water Street (Edgartown); 508-939-4371; jackwills.com; British university clothing outfitter; 1st American outpost.
Sights & Sites
●Fulling Mill Brook Preserve – at Middle and Tabor House Roads’ intersection, proceed .5 miles toward Chilmark, where parking on left-side road (Chilmark, on Allen Sheep Farm’s edge); 508-645-2114 (conversation commission); vineyardconservation.org; main trail, which runs along old cart path, is rustic, 2-mile loop; trail along Preserve’s western boundary has several scenic ocean views; numerous old structure foundations on property; near southernmost bridge is small trail to west that leads to original Fulling Mill dam; at trail’s southern end is dramatic gateway, original homestead entrance; new trail connects this property to Ocean View Farm Preserve and then to Middle Road Sanctuary.
●Menemsha Hills Reservation – at North and Tabor House Roads’ intersection, proceed .6 miles toward Menemsha, where parking lot on right-side road (Chilmark); 508-693-3678 (conversation commission); vineyardconservation.org; 211 woodland acres, along with sandy dunes and rolling hills; greatest elevation change in any Vineyard conservation area; hike begins in thick forest on Harris Trail Loop, then climbs to top from which have fantastic view of Menemsha Pond, Gay Head, and Vineyard Sound’s western end; descending from hill, take Lower Trail (at Lower and Upper Trails’ intersection); occasional views of Menemsha and Gay Head until rejoins Upper Trail and leads to Great Sand Cliff Overlook, then return to main trail and descend to rocky beach.
●Middle Road Sanctuary – at Meetinghouse and Middle Roads’ intersection, proceed .4 miles toward Chilmark on Middle Road, where parking located on left-side road (Chilmark); 508-693-5207 (conversation commission); vineyardconservation.org; 100 acres of woodland hiking; 2 trails, Red and Yellow; Red Trail loop is shorter.
●Ocean View Farm Preserve – between Fulling Mill Brook Preserve and Middle Road Sanctuary; 508-693-5207 (conversation commission); vineyardconservation.org or mvlandbank.com; currently closed.
●Tisbury Great Pond – West Tisbury; trails.com/tcatalog_trail.aspx?trailId=XAC024-042#ixzz1VgCPgbNG; many inlets and coves; see also Black Point Pond; wear foot covering to protect against blue claw crabs’ pincers and sharp shells; hiking, picnicking, and swimming at Sepiessa Point and Long Point Reservations.
●Tisbury Meadow Preserve – State Road (towards West Tisbury from Vineyard Haven); 508-693-5207 (conversation commission); vineyardconservation.org; contrary to name, significant property portion is wooded.
●Waskosim’s Rock Reservation – Chilmark; 508-627-7141; mvlandbank.com; 185-acre nature reserve; where Indians originally negotiated with Pilgrims.
●West Chop Woods – Franklin Avenue (Tisbury, West Chop); 508-693-5207; sheriffsmeadow.org; 85 “sylvan acres” primarily pitch pine forest; bike rack and small parking area off Franklin Street provide access to over 1.5 miles marked walking trails; main trail is part of old cartpath known as Lighthouse Road, that once connected Vineyard Haven with West Chop lighthouse; Lighthouse Road now marked as Red Trail and has been expanded to make loop at north end; another old road, designated Blue Trail, runs between Franklin Street and Main Street, near property’s southern boundary; 2 additional trails, connecting Blue and Red Trails; in spring, pink lady-slippers, especially near Blue and Yellow Trails’ intersection; common birds include pine warblers, blue jays, chickadees, nuthatch, great crested flycatchers, and towhees (chewinks); screech owls also present, though rarely seen, as well as occasional white-tailed deer.
NANTUCKET (includes Siasconset Village)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
●Juice Bar – 12 Broad Street; 508-228-5799; facebook.com/juicebarnantucket; some of best ice cream on island.
●Nantucket Ice Cream – 44 Straight Wharf; 508-332-4949; nantucketicecream.com.
Bars & Nightclubs
●Chicken Box – 16 Daves Street; 508-228-9717; thechickenbox.com; if you don’t go anywhere else in Nantucket, go here; American institution & Jimmy Buffet favorite; live music venue; dive bar.
●Cisco Brewers – 5 Bartlett Farm Road; 508-325-5929; ciscobrewers.com; local craft beer, vodka & wine; live music in funky courtyard.
●Galley Beach – 54 Jefferson Avenue; 508-228-9641; galleybeach.net; cherished beachside restaurant and late night gathering spot; try pomegranate margaritas and/or Seaside martini.
●Millie’s – 326 Madaket Road; 508-228-8435; milliesnantucket.com; great sunset location; bar menu.
●Slip 14 Restaurant – 14 Old South Wharf; 508-228-2033; slip14.com; favored yacht club drinking venue.
Beaches
●Cisco – Hummock Pond Road; nantucket.net/beaches/cisco.php; on way to Cisco Beach, take left on Hellers Way and drive to end; miles of pristine beach.
●Miacomet (Fat Ladies) – Miacomet Road; 508-228-7244; nantucket.net/beaches/miacomet.php.
●Nobadeer – Nobadeer Avenue (near airport); nantucket-bucket.com/nobadeer-beach; mostly young crowd.
Hotels
●Cottages & Lofts at Boat Basin – 24 Old South Wharf; 508-325-1499 or 866-838-9253; thecottagesnantucket.com; 24 cottages perched along harbor wharves.
●Galley Beach – 54 Jefferson Avenue; 508-228-9641; galleybeach.net; cherished beachside restaurant and late night gathering spot.
●Jared Coffin House – 29 Broad Street; 508-228-2400 or 800-248-2405; jaredcoffinhouse.com; near seal-watching location.
●Summer House Inn – 17 Ocean Avenue (Siasconset Village); 508-257-4542; thesummerhouse.com; Todd English-designed; luxury resort consisting of several cottages & hotels.
●Vanessa Noel Hotel – 5 Chestnut Street; 508-228-5300; vanessanoelhotel.com; tiny rooms.
●Vanessa Noel Hotel Green – 33 Centre Street; 508-228-5300; vanessanoelhotelgreen.com; 8 rooms & 1 suite; earth-consciousness influences details throughout, from milk-based paint to chairs made of cardboard & organic bed coverings; shower curtains are hemp & hotel cleaned with no-chemical & hypoallergenic products.
●Union Street Inn – 7 Union Street; 508-517-0707 or 888-517-0707; unioninn.com; 12 rooms in 1770 house; modern baths.
●Veranda House – 3 Step Lane; 508-228-0695 or 877-228-0695; theverandahouse.com; distinctive “retro-boutique.”
●Wauwinet – 120 Wauwinet Road; 508-228-0145 or 800-426-8718; wauwinet.com.
●White Elephant – 50 Easton Street; 508-228-2500 or 800-445-6574; whiteelephanthotel.com; only true resort downtown; harborside patio; restaurant; 64 rooms.
Restaurants
●Corazon del Mar – 21 South Water Street; 508-228-0815; corazonnantucket.com; tiny; south-of-border seafood.
●Downyflake Restaurant – 18 Sparks Avenue; 508-228-4533; thedownyflake.com; affordable & open 10 months year; starts breakfast at 6:00 a.m.; some of best donuts in New England.
●Dune – 20 Broad Street; 508-228-5550; dunenantucket.com; local seafood and produce; book ahead for patio.
●Fifty-Six Union – 56 Union Street; 508-228-6135; fiftysixunion.com; global cuisine; good to eat at bar.
●Millie’s – 326 Madaket Road; 508-228-8435; milliesnantucket.com; great sunset location; po’boys, salads & tacos.
●Pazzo – 130 Pleasant Street; 508-325-4500; pazzonantucket.com; Italian & Mediterranean; quality wine in unpretentious atmosphere; great service.
●Slip 14 Restaurant – 14 Old South Wharf; 508-228-2033; slip14.com; for just-caught seafood dinner.
●Straight Wharf Restaurant – 6 Harbor Square; 508-228-4499; straightwharfrestaurant.com; open for nearly 40 years; try watermelon gazpacho.
●Summer House Restaurant Beachside Bistro – 17 Ocean Avenue (Siasconset Village); 508-257-4542; thesummerhouse.com; Todd English-designed menu; try lobster roll & take dip in pool.
●Topper’s at the Wauwinet – 120 Wauwinet Road; 508-228-0145; wauwinet.com.
Services
●Endeavor Sailing – Straight Wharf, Slip #1015; 508-228-5585; endeavorsailing.com; 90-minute sunset cruises.
Shopping
●Bartlett’s Farm – 33 Bartlett Farm Road; 508-228-9403; bartlettsfarm.com; nursery that sells pricey, local produce; yoga classes in loft.
●Milly & Grace – 2 Washington Street; 508-901-5051; millyandgrace.com; Bohemian, Yoana Baraschi caftans and tunics, Minnie Rose cashmeres, and Waxing Poetic embossed silver jewelry.
●Mitchell’s Book Corner – 54 Main Street; 508-228-1080; mitchellsbookcorner.com; hosts weekly readings by local authors; open 42 years; local history works.
●Moors End Farm – 40 Polpis Road; 508-228-2674; moorsendfarm.com; fresh fruit & produce.
●Murray’s Toggery Shop – 62 Main Street; 508-228-0437; nantucketreds.com; preppy clothing.
●Nantucket Bookworks – 25 Broad Street; 508-228-4000; nantucketbookpartners.com; bookstore.
●Nantucket Farmers & Artisans Market – Cambridge and North Union Streets; 508-228-3399; sustainablenantucket.org; 65 different island farmers and suppliers.
●Rafael Osona Auctions – 21 Washington Street; 508-228-3942; rafaelosonaauction.com; Saturday morning estate auctions.
●Wayne Pratt, Inc. – 28 Main Street; 508-228-8788; prattantiques.com.
●Sustainable Nantucket Farmers & Artisans Market – next to St. Mary’s Church (3 Federal Street); 508-228-3399; sustainablenantucket.org/category/farmers-artisans-market.
●Jack Wills – 11 South Water Street; 508-332-1601; jackwills.com; British university clothing outfitter; 1st American outpost.
Sights & Sites
●Bluff Walk – Siasconset Village; along wouth shore; unmarked path that is breath-taking; pick it up at village center (right and then quick left at Front Street’s end).
●Eel Point – beach on island’s far west end; need beach vehicle and driving permit; apply for both at Nantucket Police Station.
●Madaket Mall – on way to Millie’s Restaurant, 326 Madaket Road, stop at almost hidden pier on left (about 4/10th mile after town dump); tie piece of raw chicken leg on string and drop in water; can reel up giant snapping turtles.
●Main Street – lined with 19th Century storefronts and buckled brick sidewalks.
●Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum – 158 Polpis Road; 508-228-1885; nantucket-shipwreck.org; over 700 shipwrecks litter this coast; includes footage of Andrea Doria wreck.
●Sankaty Head Lighthouse – north end Baxter Road (Siasconset, off Polpis Road); 508-228-1700; lighthouse.cc/sankaty; iconic landmark & among oldest operating lighthouses in US; great photo-ops.
●Smith’s Point – beach on island’s far west end; need beach vehicle and driving permit; apply for both at Nantucket Police Station.
●Whaling Museum – 13 Broad Street; 508-228-1894; nha.org; in addition to whaling museum, features Hadwen House, Oldest House, Old Mill, Old Gaol, Quaker Meetinghouse & Hose Cart House.
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