Saturday, August 13, 2011


CAPE COD (includes Dennis, Elizabeth Islands [Cuttyhunk & Gosnold Islands], New Bedford, Provincetown [Eastham & North Truro] & Yarmouth Port)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Ice Cream Smuggler – 716 Main Street (Dennis); 508-385-5307;; handmade ice cream.

Avalon Inn – 4 Powerhouse Road (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-997-8388 or 361-774-6262 (cell);; 7 rooms in former 1909 mansion.
Crowne Pointe Inn – 82 Bradford Street (Provincetown); 508-487-6767;; 140 year-old inn.
Crow’s Nest Resort & Cottages – 496 Shore Road (North Truro); 508-487-9031 or 800-499-9799;; modestly furnished suites with full kitchens.
Cuttyhunk Fishing Club – 2 Road to Plains (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-997-0858;; 8 rooms (some suites have private baths); all guests have grill space and kitchen access.
8 Dyer Hotel – 8 Dyer Street (Provincetown); 508-487-0880;; boutique.
Inn at Oaks – 3085 State Highway (Provincetown); 508-225-1886 or 877-255-1886;; in classic Victorian house (formerly sea captain’s home); rooms are small and not all have bathrooms.
Salt House Inn – 6 Conwell Street (Provincetown); 508-487-1911;; bright, white rooms with nautical touches; meticulous service; historic building just minutes from Commercial Street.

Bart’s Cart – Fisherman’s Pier (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-758-6653;; simple, outdoor grill stand; good breakfasts, in particular; lunch specials.
Borges Shack – Fish Dock (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-999-1263; for steamed lobster dinner to go; call to arrange in advance.
Cuttyhunk Shellfish Farms’ Raw Bar – Fish Dock (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-990-1317;; couple who run also serve “Lobsters on Lawn,” traditional lobster bake, on select nights; call for information.
Soprano’s – Frog Pond (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-992-7530;; island’s only sit-down restaurant, weather permitting; calzone and pizza; also, newsstand that sells New York Times.

Captain Bruce Borges’ Charters – Carolyn’s Way Road (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-999-1263;; lobstering.
Cuttyhunk Ferry Company – 66B State Pier (New Bedford); 508-992-0200;; regular transport to islands.
Cuttyhunk Water Taxi – 52 Fisherman’s Wharf (New Bedford); 508-789-3250;; more frequent service than ferry for up to 5 passengers.
Linesider Fishing Charter – 28 Broadway (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-971-1388 or 508-991-7352;; bass and bluefish guides.
Lisa G. Charters – 23 Broadway (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-965-7362;; Captain Russell Wright specializes in fly-fishing and spin-casting.
Pete’s Place Rentals – Cuttyhunk Island; 508-997-6387;; cottages and houses for rent.
Sea Hawk Charters – 10 Shore Road (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-802-8633;; bass and bluefish.

Sights & Sites
Cuttyhunk Historical Society & Museum of Elizabeth Islands – 23 Tower Hill Road (Cuttyhunk Island); 508-984-4611 (summers only);
Bartholomew Gosnold Monument – Gosnold Island; not easy place to visit; bike through swamp and thick woods, hike along very rocky beach, swim through marsh, and then climb up on Gosnold Island; Gosnold discovered Cuttyhunk in 1602 and then went on to visit Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, and eventually Maine; 1st European to build house in New England and founded 1st settlement (lasted only few weeks); 1902 marked 300th anniversary so island residents built monument; rough stone tower about 70' high with few windows and door, now sealed shut.
Elephant House (Edward Gorey) – 8 Strawberry Lane (YARMOUTH PORT); 508-362-3909;; featuring exhibits re personal and professional life, as well as legacy of supporting animal welfare causes.
Lookout Hill – Cuttyhunk Island; highest point on island; tremendous views over Cape Cod.
West End Pond – Cuttyhunk Island; where Gosnold Island is.

MARTHA’S VINEYARD (includes Aquinnah, Chilmark, Edgartown, Menemsha, Oaks Bluff, Tisbury, Vineyard Haven & West Tisbury)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Gourmet Cake & Bakery – 5 Post Office Square (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-3688;; after 7:30 pm, “back door donuts”; famous for apple fritters and Boston cream; prepare for lines.

Bars & Nightclubs
Black Dog Tavern – 3 Water Street (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-9223;; old stand-by.
Offshore Ale Co. – 30 Kennebec Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-2626;
Ritz Café – 4 Circuit Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-9851.

Lobsterville – 2 Lobsterville Road (Aquinnah); 508-645-2300;; in quaint, quiet place; even in summer, not crowded and in off-season you seldom will see another soul; very little parking (little there is is restricted for residents only); great place to stop when biking to great lighthouse; beach and water are protected by land and shallow so warmer than many other beaches but, realistically speaking, still cold as hell; beach has lots of rocks that seem to come and go but sandy areas can usually be found; great views in every direction; during colder months, wind frequently howls through area, agitating water into angry whitecaps and giving impression of pristine and wild place; beautiful and ethereal.
Lucy Vincent Beach – Lucy Vincent Beach Road (Chilmark); 508-645-2777;; open only to Chilmark residents and those staying in town.
Moshup (Gayhead Public Beach) – Moshup Trail (Aquinnah); 508-645-2300;; extends from Philbin Beach to just before cliffs; beach is approximately 10-minute walk from parking lot on cleared trail; $15 parking fee in summer; all but one person should get off at wooden boardwalk along road with lunches, towels, toys, and so on, while remaining person heads back up to park; in season you can also take shuttle buses from down-island to parking lot at Aquinnah Cliffs and walk to beach; although it is against law, nudists tend to gravitate here; restrooms are near parking lot.
Philbin – Moshup Trail (Aquinnah); 508-645-2300;; resident parking only, however beach open to public.

Beach Plum Inn – 50 Beach Plum Lane (Menemsha); 508-645-9454;
Hob Knob Boutique – 128 Main Street (Edgartown); 508-627-9510 or 800-696-2723;
Kinsman House – 278 Main Street (Tisbury); 508-693-2311;; owner-run 1880s house 4 blocks from ferry terminal; once rectory for church across street; each of 3 guest rooms has queen bed, 2 rooms share bathroom; breakfast not included.
Lambert’s Cove Inn – 90 Manaquayak Road (West Tisbury); 508-693-2298 or 866-526-2466;; each room individually decorated; pool and private beach.
Menemsha Inn & Cottages – North Road (Menemsha); 508-645-2521;; on island’s western part; lots of flowers and stonewalls; short walk to beach.
Oak Bluffs Inn – 64 Circuit Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-7171 or 800-955-6235;; homey Victorian inn on Oaks Bluff’s main drag; prominent cupola, from which guests can enjoy 360-degree view; some rooms tad small, but others are spacious and even have comfortable seating areas; all with ceiling fans.
1720 House – 152 Main Street (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-6407;; 6 rooms.

Art Cliff Diner – 39 Beach Road (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-1224;; expect best diner food you’ve ever had; quirky establishment with unreliable hours, especially off-season (so call to be sure open); just-caught fish-of-day served with herbs from chef’s garden or simple burger cooked just right; homemade desserts; food truck in restaurant parking lot on Thursday-Sunday evenings in summer and serves burgers, hand-cut fries, and falafels straight from portable grill.
Beach Plum Inn – 50 Beach Plum Lane (Menemsha); 508-645-9454;
Bite – 29 Basin Road (Menemsha); 508-645-9239;; fried seafood; Vernon Jordan and Henry Louis Gates are regulars.
Black Dog Tavern – 3 Water Street (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-9223;; old stand-by.
Giordano’s Restaurant & Clam Bar – 18 Lake Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-0184;; Italian.
Grace Church – 36 Woodlawn Avenue (Vineyard Haven, at Williams Street); 508-693-0332;; from 4:30-7:30 p.m. on Fridays in summer, $13 lobber rolls.
Hooked – 15 Island Inn Road (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-6093;; casual fish house featuring locally caught fresh fish, oyster bar, and fish house favorites.
Larsen’s Fish Market – 56 Basin Road (Menemsha); 508-645-2680; sits on Tranquil Dutcher Dock; bring your own blankets, stemware, and candles; famous for takeaway so order by 6:30 pm.
Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet Café & Bakery – 5 Post Office Square (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-3688;
Menemsha Fish Market – 54 Basin Road (Chilmark); 508-645-2282;; crab cake sandwiches and lobster bisque.
Side Car – 16 Kennebec Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-6261;; good, bistro-style restaurant.
Slice of Life – 50 Circuit Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-693-3838;; good breakfasts.
Sophia’s One Stop – 199 Upper Main Street (Edgartown); 508-627-4661;; Brazilian buffet in back.
State Road Restaurant – 688 State Road (North Tisbury); 508-693-8582;; in dry community; local ingredients, American cuisine.
Sweet Life Café – 63 Circuit Avenue (Oaks Bluff); 508-696-0200;; very pretty.

Allen Farm Sheep & Wool Co. – 421 South Road (Chilmark); 508-645-9064.
Bunch of Grapes – 44 Main Street (Tisbury); 508-693-2291;; bookstore.
Chilmark Chocolates – 19 State Road (Chilmark); 508-645-3013;; call ahead for hours; made by persons with disabilities.
LeRoux at Home – 62 Main Street (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-0030;; kitchen supplies.
Midnight Farm – 18 Water-Cromwell Lane (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-1997;; owned by Carly Simon; eclectic clothing and gifts.
Nochi – 29 Main Street (Vineyard Haven); 508-693-9074;; blankets and robes.
West Tisbury Farmers Market – 1067 State Road (West Tisbury, Old Agricultural Hall).
Jack Wills – 1 South Water Street (Edgartown); 508-939-4371;; British university clothing outfitter; 1st American outpost.

Sights & Sites
Fulling Mill Brook Preserve – at Middle and Tabor House Roads’ intersection, proceed .5 miles toward Chilmark, where parking on left-side road (Chilmark, on Allen Sheep Farm’s edge); 508-645-2114 (conversation commission);; main trail, which runs along old cart path, is rustic, 2-mile loop; trail along Preserve’s western boundary has several scenic ocean views; numerous old structure foundations on property; near southernmost bridge is small trail to west that leads to original Fulling Mill dam; at trail’s southern end is dramatic gateway, original homestead entrance; new trail connects this property to Ocean View Farm Preserve and then to Middle Road Sanctuary.
Menemsha Hills Reservation – at North and Tabor House Roads’ intersection, proceed .6 miles toward Menemsha, where parking lot on right-side road (Chilmark); 508-693-3678 (conversation commission);; 211 woodland acres, along with sandy dunes and rolling hills; greatest elevation change in any Vineyard conservation area; hike begins in thick forest on Harris Trail Loop, then climbs to top from which have fantastic view of Menemsha Pond, Gay Head, and Vineyard Sound’s western end; descending from hill, take Lower Trail (at Lower and Upper Trails’ intersection); occasional views of Menemsha and Gay Head until rejoins Upper Trail and leads to Great Sand Cliff Overlook, then return to main trail and descend to rocky beach.
Middle Road Sanctuary – at Meetinghouse and Middle Roads’ intersection, proceed .4 miles toward Chilmark on Middle Road, where parking located on left-side road (Chilmark); 508-693-5207 (conversation commission);; 100 acres of woodland hiking; 2 trails, Red and Yellow; Red Trail loop is shorter.
Ocean View Farm Preserve – between Fulling Mill Brook Preserve and Middle Road Sanctuary; 508-693-5207 (conversation commission); or; currently closed.
Tisbury Great Pond – West Tisbury;; many inlets and coves; see also Black Point Pond; wear foot covering to protect against blue claw crabs’ pincers and sharp shells; hiking, picnicking, and swimming at Sepiessa Point and Long Point Reservations.
Tisbury Meadow Preserve – State Road (towards West Tisbury from Vineyard Haven); 508-693-5207 (conversation commission);; contrary to name, significant property portion is wooded.
Waskosim’s Rock Reservation – Chilmark; 508-627-7141;; 185-acre nature reserve; where Indians originally negotiated with Pilgrims.
West Chop Woods – Franklin Avenue (Tisbury, West Chop); 508-693-5207;; 85 “sylvan acres” primarily pitch pine forest; bike rack and small parking area off Franklin Street provide access to over 1.5 miles marked walking trails; main trail is part of old cartpath known as Lighthouse Road, that once connected Vineyard Haven with West Chop lighthouse; Lighthouse Road now marked as Red Trail and has been expanded to make loop at north end; another old road, designated Blue Trail, runs between Franklin Street and Main Street, near property’s southern boundary; 2 additional trails, connecting Blue and Red Trails; in spring, pink lady-slippers, especially near Blue and Yellow Trails’ intersection; common birds include pine warblers, blue jays, chickadees, nuthatch, great crested flycatchers, and towhees (chewinks); screech owls also present, though rarely seen, as well as occasional white-tailed deer.

NANTUCKET (includes Siasconset Village)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Juice Bar – 12 Broad Street; 508-228-5799;; some of best ice cream on island.
Nantucket Ice Cream – 44 Straight Wharf; 508-332-4949;

Bars & Nightclubs
Chicken Box – 16 Daves Street; 508-228-9717;; if you don’t go anywhere else in Nantucket, go here; American institution & Jimmy Buffet favorite; live music venue; dive bar.
Cisco Brewers – 5 Bartlett Farm Road; 508-325-5929;; local craft beer, vodka & wine; live music in funky courtyard.
Galley Beach – 54 Jefferson Avenue; 508-228-9641;; cherished beachside restaurant and late night gathering spot; try pomegranate margaritas and/or Seaside martini.
Millie’s – 326 Madaket Road; 508-228-8435;; great sunset location; bar menu.
Slip 14 Restaurant – 14 Old South Wharf; 508-228-2033;; favored yacht club drinking venue.

Cisco – Hummock Pond Road;; on way to Cisco Beach, take left on Hellers Way and drive to end; miles of pristine beach.
Miacomet (Fat Ladies) – Miacomet Road; 508-228-7244;
Nobadeer – Nobadeer Avenue (near airport);; mostly young crowd.

Cottages & Lofts at Boat Basin – 24 Old South Wharf; 508-325-1499 or 866-838-9253;; 24 cottages perched along harbor wharves.
Galley Beach – 54 Jefferson Avenue; 508-228-9641;; cherished beachside restaurant and late night gathering spot.
Jared Coffin House – 29 Broad Street; 508-228-2400 or 800-248-2405;; near seal-watching location.
Summer House Inn – 17 Ocean Avenue (Siasconset Village); 508-257-4542;; Todd English-designed; luxury resort consisting of several cottages & hotels.
Vanessa Noel Hotel – 5 Chestnut Street; 508-228-5300;; tiny rooms.
Vanessa Noel Hotel Green – 33 Centre Street; 508-228-5300;; 8 rooms & 1 suite; earth-consciousness influences details throughout, from milk-based paint to chairs made of cardboard & organic bed coverings; shower curtains are hemp & hotel cleaned with no-chemical & hypoallergenic products.
Union Street Inn – 7 Union Street; 508-517-0707 or 888-517-0707;; 12 rooms in 1770 house; modern baths.
Veranda House – 3 Step Lane; 508-228-0695 or 877-228-0695;; distinctive “retro-boutique.”
Wauwinet – 120 Wauwinet Road; 508-228-0145 or 800-426-8718;
White Elephant – 50 Easton Street; 508-228-2500 or 800-445-6574;; only true resort downtown; harborside patio; restaurant; 64 rooms.

Corazon del Mar – 21 South Water Street; 508-228-0815;; tiny; south-of-border seafood.
Downyflake Restaurant – 18 Sparks Avenue; 508-228-4533;; affordable & open 10 months year; starts breakfast at 6:00 a.m.; some of best donuts in New England.
Dune – 20 Broad Street; 508-228-5550;; local seafood and produce; book ahead for patio.
Fifty-Six Union – 56 Union Street; 508-228-6135;; global cuisine; good to eat at bar.
Millie’s – 326 Madaket Road; 508-228-8435;; great sunset location; po’boys, salads & tacos.
Pazzo – 130 Pleasant Street; 508-325-4500;; Italian & Mediterranean; quality wine in unpretentious atmosphere; great service.
Slip 14 Restaurant – 14 Old South Wharf; 508-228-2033;; for just-caught seafood dinner.
Straight Wharf Restaurant – 6 Harbor Square; 508-228-4499;; open for nearly 40 years; try watermelon gazpacho.
Summer House Restaurant Beachside Bistro – 17 Ocean Avenue (Siasconset Village); 508-257-4542;; Todd English-designed menu; try lobster roll & take dip in pool.
Topper’s at the Wauwinet – 120 Wauwinet Road; 508-228-0145;

Endeavor Sailing – Straight Wharf, Slip #1015; 508-228-5585;; 90-minute sunset cruises.

Bartlett’s Farm – 33 Bartlett Farm Road; 508-228-9403;; nursery that sells pricey, local produce; yoga classes in loft.
Milly & Grace – 2 Washington Street; 508-901-5051;; Bohemian, Yoana Baraschi caftans and tunics, Minnie Rose cashmeres, and Waxing Poetic embossed silver jewelry.
Mitchell’s Book Corner – 54 Main Street; 508-228-1080;; hosts weekly readings by local authors; open 42 years; local history works.
Moors End Farm – 40 Polpis Road; 508-228-2674;; fresh fruit & produce.
Murray’s Toggery Shop – 62 Main Street; 508-228-0437;; preppy clothing.
Nantucket Bookworks – 25 Broad Street; 508-228-4000;; bookstore.
Nantucket Farmers & Artisans Market – Cambridge and North Union Streets; 508-228-3399;; 65 different island farmers and suppliers.
Rafael Osona Auctions – 21 Washington Street; 508-228-3942;; Saturday morning estate auctions.
Wayne Pratt, Inc. – 28 Main Street; 508-228-8788;
Sustainable Nantucket Farmers & Artisans Market – next to St. Mary’s Church (3 Federal Street); 508-228-3399;
Jack Wills – 11 South Water Street; 508-332-1601;; British university clothing outfitter; 1st American outpost.

Sights & Sites
Bluff Walk – Siasconset Village; along wouth shore; unmarked path that is breath-taking; pick it up at village center (right and then quick left at Front Street’s end).
Eel Point – beach on island’s far west end; need beach vehicle and driving permit; apply for both at Nantucket Police Station.
Madaket Mall – on way to Millie’s Restaurant, 326 Madaket Road, stop at almost hidden pier on left (about 4/10th mile after town dump); tie piece of raw chicken leg on string and drop in water; can reel up giant snapping turtles.
Main Street – lined with 19th Century storefronts and buckled brick sidewalks.
Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum – 158 Polpis Road; 508-228-1885;; over 700 shipwrecks litter this coast; includes footage of Andrea Doria wreck.
Sankaty Head Lighthouse – north end Baxter Road (Siasconset, off Polpis Road); 508-228-1700;; iconic landmark & among oldest operating lighthouses in US; great photo-ops.
Smith’s Point – beach on island’s far west end; need beach vehicle and driving permit; apply for both at Nantucket Police Station.
Whaling Museum – 13 Broad Street; 508-228-1894;; in addition to whaling museum, features Hadwen House, Oldest House, Old Mill, Old Gaol, Quaker Meetinghouse & Hose Cart House.

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