Saturday, August 20, 2011

ESTONIA

TALLINN (includes Muhu Island)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Anneli Viik – 30 Pikk; 011-372-644-4530; www.anneliviik.ee; hot chocolate so thick spoons stand in it.
Bonaparte Deli – 45-47 Pikk; 011-372-646-4444; www.bonaparte.ee; for meat pies (toorsuitsupeekoni-hakklihapirukas) and Japanese teas.
Klaus Kohvik – 8 Kalasadama (Kalamaja); 011-372-5691-9010; klauskohvik.ee; espresso on patio with Baltic Sea view.
Maiasmokk – 16 Pikk; 011-372-646-4079; www.kalev.ee; Tallinn’s oldest cafe (since 1864); name means “sweet-toothed person”; for cake.
Bars & Nightclubs
Boheem – 18 Kopli (Kalamaja); 011-372-631-1928; boheem.ee; 4 cozy ground-floor rooms in typical wooden “Tallinn House”; try cherry-flavored Puls beer.
Butterfly Lounge – 13 Vana-Viru/Aia 4; 011-372-56-903-703; www.kokteilibaar.ee/en; serious cocktails.
F-Hoone – 60a Telliskivi (Kalamaja); 011-372-680-1114; impressive beer selection.
Sfaar – 6E Mere Puiestee; 011-372-5699-2200; www.sfaar.ee; wine bar.
Wabadus – 10 Vabaduse Valjak; 011-372-601-6461; www.wabadus.ee; from Estonian word for “freedom”; cocktails.
Hotels
Padaste Manor – 4 Lootsi; 011-372-602-2222; www.padaste.ee; small luxury hotel; “gastro-lodge” 100 miles southwest of Talinn.
Hotel Telegraaf – 9 Vene; 011-372-600-0600; www.telegraafhotel.com; in 1878, building held exchange station for Estonian Telegraph Company; next to Town Hall Square, which dates back to 13th Century; suites named after Alexander Graham Bell and Samuel Morse.
Three Sisters Hotel – 71 Pikk/2 Tolli; 011-372-630-6300; www.threesistershotel.com; 23 rooms in 3 14th Century buildings; previous guests include Queen Elizabeth and Japanese Emperor.
Restaurants
Boheem – 18 Kopli (Kalamaja); 011-372-631-1928; boheem.ee; 4 cozy ground-floor rooms in typical wooden “Tallinn House”; cafe; try jam-slatered pancakes.
Bonaparte Deli – 45-47 Pikk; 011-372-646-4444; www.bonaparte.ee; for meat pies (toorsuitsupeekoni-hakklihapirukas) and Japanese teas.
Bordoo – 71 Pikk/2 Tolli (at Three Sisters Hotel); 011-372-630-6300; www.threesistershotel.com.
F-Hoone – 60a Telliskivi (Kalamaja); 011-372-680-1114; casual, in former factory space.
Moon – 3 Vorgu (Kalamaja); 011-372-631-4575; kohvikmoon.ee; modern Estonian cuisine in lovely setting.
Neh – 4 Lootsi (at Padaste Manor); 011-372-602-2222; www.neh.ee; outside of Old Town; spread over 2 floors in old stone house; only open in winter; influenced by Noma (Copenhagen).
Ö – 6E Mere Puiestee; 011-372-661-6150; www.restoran-o.ee; name is Swedish for “island”; ethereal atmosphere and food.
Restaurant Tchaikovsky – 9 Vene (at Hotel Telegraaf); 011-372-600-0600; www.telegraafhotel.com; Russian food.
Sfaar – 6E Mere Puiestee; 011-372-56-992-200; www.sfaar.ee; Estonian food; modern, stark-ish decor showing Scandinavian influence; open for all meals (8 am to 11 pm).
Wabadus – 10 Vabaduse Valjak; 011-372-601-6461; www.wabadus.ee; from Estonian word for “freedom”; some hot dishes.
Shopping
Anneli Vik – 30 Pikk; 011-372-644-4530; www.anneliviik.ee; chocolates.
Bonaparte Deli – 45-47 Pikk; 011-372-646-4444; www.bonaparte.ee; international foods.
Estonian Design House – 8 Kalasadama (Kalamaja); 011-372-5800-4036; estoniandesignhouse.ee; 30 Estonian artists’ and designers’ works appear in this combination gallery, shop, and showroom.
Sfaar – 6E Mere Puiestee; 011-372-5699-2200; www.sfaar.ee; clothing (including labels like Swedish Acne).
Zizi – 2 Suur-Karja (Old Town); 011-372-664-1155; www.zizihome.eu Marimekko-style print linens.
Zizi – 12 Vene (Old Town); 011-372-664-1155; www.zizihome.eu; Marimekko-style print linens.
Sights & Sites
Danish King’s Garden – 9A Lühike Jalg; on Toompea hill’s slopes, between city wall and Lower Town; open, garden-like area; Danish flag’s legendary birthplace; called Danish King’s Garden because supposedly here that Denmark King Valdemar II (and troops) camped before conquering Toompea in 1219; Valdemar’s forces were losing battle with Estonians when suddenly skies opened and red flag with white cross floated down, spurring Danes to victory; halfway down steps towards Rüütli street is iron sword and shield with Danish cross; each summer, Danneborg Day celebrated here.
Estonia Concert Hall – 4 Estonia Puiestee; 011-372-614-7700; www.concert.ee.
Estonian National Opera – 4 Estonia Puiestee (at Estonia Concert Hall); 011-372-683-1201; www.opera.ee.
Kalev Marzipan Museum Room – 16 Pikk; 011-372-464-192; www.kalev.eu; can watch craftsmen make marzipan fruit, hand-painting them.
KGB Museum – 4 Viru Valjak (at Sokos Hotel Viru); 011-372-680-9300; www.sokoshotwls.fi; hotel’s top floor once housed small KGB offices kept comically secret (sign on door said, “There is nothing here.”
KultuuriKatel – 27 Pohja Puiestee; 011-372-524-3200; www.kultuurikatel.org; large arts venue.
Old Town – whc.unesco.org; UNESCO World Heritage Site; twisting cobblestone lanes and iron street lamps; gothic spires and medieval markets.
Riigikogu (Parliament) – 1A Lossi Plats; 011-372-631-6331; www.riigikogu.ee; parliament.
St. Alexander Nevsky (Estonian Orthodox) Cathedral – 10 Lossi Plats; 011-372-644-3484; www.tourism.tallinn.ee/fin.

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