Wednesday, August 3, 2011

KYOTO

(includes Shiga)

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Café Bibliotic Hello! – Nijo-dori, Yanaginobanba Higashi iru, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-231-8625; café-hello.jp; cozy bar, café, and gallery with fireplace and floor-to-ceiling bookcases.
Café Independents – 1928 Building, Sanjo-dori, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-255-4312; café-independents.com; in 1928 Building’s basement; excellent crème brulee; jazz and rock music.
Chez Quasimodo – Takakura Dori, Nijo-agaru, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-231-2488; intimate bar with low, barrel ceiling with fireplace.
Super Jankara Karaoke Room – 296 Naraya-cho, Kawaramachi, Takoyakushi-agaru, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-212-5858.
Taku Taku – Tominokoji-dori, Bukkojisagaru, Shimogyo-ku; 011-81-75-351-1321; former sake storehouse that hosts blues and rock acts, like Taj Mahal and los Lobos; open since 1975.



HOTELS
Hiiragiya Ryokan – Nakahakusan-cho, Fuya-cho, Anekoji-agaru, Nakagyo-ku (located on corners of Fuya-cho and Oike Streets); 011-81-75-221-1136; hiiragiya.co.jp; traditional inn; situated in old Kyoto’s heart; noteworthy former guests include Japanese royal family princes, Charlie Chaplin, and Pierre Cardin; built in 1818 and inn since 1861 – Ms. Nishimura is 6th-generation innkeeper; haven of simple design that makes artful use of wood, bamboo, screens, and stones in its spacious, traditionally arranged rooms.
Hoshinoya – 1 1-2 Arashiyama Genrokuzancho (Nishikyo); 011-81-50-3786-0066; hoshinoyakyoto.jp; traditional Japanese ryokan combined with latest 21st Century architecture; nestled into Hozugawa River banks and accessible only by boat; à la carte dining, exquisite gardens, library, and total tranquillity; all rooms furnished in contemporary Japanese style with hand-blocked wallpaper, cedar wood, sliding glass doors, and large picture windows; passing wildlife includes deer, foxes, and monkeys; Arashiyama renowned for its temples, which are well worth visiting.
Hyatt Regency Kyoto – 644-2 Sanjusangendo-mawari
Higashiyama-ku; 011-81-75-541-1234; kyoto.regency.hyatt.com; 189 rooms elegant and calm; location ideal (near Sanjusangendo Temple); March-April for cherry blossom season and October-November for foliage; any of back rooms facing moss-and-rock garden best; city’s most luxurious hotel.
Hotel Kanra Kyoto – 185 Kitamachi Shimogyo-ku; 011-81-75-344-3815; hotelkanrajp.com; serenely minimal; inspired by local machiya (wooden town houses that extend from storefront to central courtyard); 29 rooms, each unit having different floor plan; try to get “superior” room.
Kurama Onsen – 520 Kuramahonmachi (Sakyo-ku); 011-81-75-741-2131; kurama-onsen.co.jp; bathhouse and inn; about 1 hour’s hike from Kyoto city center (trailhead is 20-minute ride from city center on old Kyoto line).
9 Hours – 588 Teianmaeno-cho Shijo Teramachi, Shimogyo-ku; 011-81-75-353-9005; 9hours.jp; “capsule” hotel; surprisingly stylish; each 3.5' high, black and white pod costs $50 per night.



RESTAURANTS
Café Aurora – Kuramahonmachi 308; 011-81-75-741-5178; aquariel.com; organic tea shop (near Kurama Onsen).
Café Bibliotic Hello! – Nijo-dori, Yanaginobanba Higashi iru, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-231-8625; café-hello.jp; cozy bar, café, and gallery with fireplace and floor-to-ceiling bookcases.
Café Independents – 1928 Building, Sanjo-dori, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-255-4312; café-independents.com; in 1928 Building’s basement; excellent crème brulee; jazz and rock music, too.
Din Tai Fung – 52 Shijou Tsugawahara-machi Nishi Irima-cho Shimokyou-ku (3F Kyoto Takashimaya Department Store); 011-81-75-252-7992; dintaifungusa.com; excellent café chain that elevates street food into something elegant; try xiaolong bao (soup dumplings).
Giro Giro Hitoshina – 420-7 Nanba-cho, Nishi Kiya-machidori, Higashigawa, Matsubarashita, Shimogyo-ku; 011-81-75-343-7070; affordable Kaiseki cuisine (good alternative to Kikunoi, below); stylish restaurant carved out of old wooden townhouse, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Takase-gawa canal; try daikon rolls stuffed with foie gras and sweet potatoes.
Hara Donuts – 341-2 Iseya-cho, Gokou-machi-dori, Rokkaku-sagaru, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-252-4887; tofu.
Honke Owariya – 322 Kurumaya-cho, Nijo, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-231-3446; honke-owariya.co.jp; original of 3 locations; 545 year-old restaurant; traditional, tatami mat flooring and Western-style chairs and tables; try Hourai Soba set; English language menu.
Hiiragiya Ryokan – Anekoji-agaru, Fuyacho, Nakagyo-ku (located on corners of Fuya-cho and Oike Streets); 011-81-75-221-1136; hiiragiya.co.jp/en; tofu; Kyoto-style Kaiseki cuisine, carefully prepared with freshest seasonal ingredients, elegantly presented on handcrafted Kiyomizu ceramics and finest lacquer ware.
Kichisen – 5 Morimoto-cho, Shimogamo, Sakyo-ku; 011-81-75-711-6121; kichisen-kyoto.com/en; tofu; Kyoto-style Kaiseki cuisine in forest near one of oldest Shinto shrines in Kyoto, Shimogamo Shrine, designated as UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site.
Kikunoi – Maruyama Park, Gion Higashiyama-ku; 011-81-75-561-0015; kikunoi.jp/english; tofu; Kaiseki cuisine; established in 1912; beautiful; very expensive.
Kinki – 3-142 Tenno-cho, Kiyamachi-dori, Matusbara-agaru, Shimogyo-ku; 011-81-75-352-3131; tofu.
Kyoto Tsuruya – 30 Higashi-Tennoji-cho, Okazaki, Sakyu-ku; 011-81-75-761-0171; 100 year-old restaurant with beautiful garden.
Morika – 42 Fujinoki-cho, Saga-Shakado, Ukyo-ku, Arashiyama; 011-81-75-861-0219; tofu.
OKU Gallery & Café – 570-119 Gionmachi Minamigawa, Higashiyama-ku; 011-81-75-531-4776; oku-style.com; minimalist white space with long, low window overlooking miniature Japanese garden; until 7 p.m., serves tea and creative treats on elegant black and white ceramic ware.
Okutan – 86-30 Fukuchi-cho, Nanzenji Temple; 011-81-75-771-8709; tofu.
Somushi Kochaya – Karasuma Sanjo-nishi-iru; 011-81-75-253-1456; somushi.com; Korean tearoom that serves medicinal teas spiked with ingredients like ginger and persimmon leaves.
Tenryu-ji Shegetsu – Syojin-ryouri Sigetu, Saga, Ukyo-ku; 011-81-75-881-1235; Shojin Ryori (vegetarian) cuisine; on 14th Century temple grounds in Arashiyama; diners kneel or sit on floor and eat in silence.
Tousuiro – 517-3 Kami-Osakamachi, Sanjo-agaru, Kiyamachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-251-1600; tousuiro.com/en; some of finest tofu in Japan; among most famous restaurants.
Yubahan – Oike-agaru, Fuyacho-dori, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-221-5622; tofu.



SERVICES
Iori Machiya Rentals – 144-6 Sujiya-cho, Tominokoji-dori, Takatsuji-agaru, Shimogyo-ku; 011-81-75-352-0211; Kyoto-machiya.com; restores old wooden houses and rents them out.
Takemoto – Miyagawa-cho; o-chaya; need private guide to visit this type of teahouse (geisha-like); try sherry-y@khaki.plala.or.jp; ask for Sherry Yamaguchi.



SHOPPING
Aritsugu – Nishiki-Koji Dori, Gokoma-chi, Nishi-iru, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-221-1091; handwrought steel chef’s knives.
Café Bibliotic Hello! – Nijo-dori, Yanaginobanba Higashi iru, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-231-8625; café-hello.jp; cozy bar, café, and gallery with fireplace and floor-to-ceiling bookcases.
Gallery Kei – 671-1 Kuon-in-mae-cho, Ebisugawa-agaru, Teramachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-212-7114; gallerykei.jp; kimonos made from elm, hemp, and linden fibers.
Gion Naitou – 47 Kamei, Shijo-kudaru, Gion-Yamamoto-Oji, Higashiyama-ku; 011-81-75-541-7110; very famous and long-established sandal shop.
Kamisoe – 11-1 Higashi Fujinomori-cho, Murasakino (Kita-ku); 011-81-75-432-8555; kamisoe.com; handmade paper products, from door-paper to stationary.
Kasagen – 284 Gion-machi-Kitagawa, Higashiyama-ku; 011-81-75-561-2832; authentic, oiled paper umbrellas; open since 1861.
Nazuna – 11-1 Higashi Fujinomori-cho, Murasakino 1F (Kita-ku); 011-81-90-8368-3756; artists’ collective; glass-blowing.
Nishiki-Koji Market – Nishiki-koji-dori, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-211-3882; 7-block arcade of produce, seafood, and specialty food stalls.
OKU Gallery & Café – 570-119 Gionmachi Minamigawa, Higashiyama-ku; 011-81-75-531-4776; oku-style.com; minimalist white space with long, low window overlooking miniature Japanese garden; until 7 pm, serves tea and creative treats on elegant black and white ceramic ware.
Ryuka – 11-1 Higashi Fujinomori-cho, Murasakino 2F (Kita-ku); 011-81-90-4562-3396; remove shoes before ascending to 2nd level ceramics shop.
Sanjo-dori – between Muromachi-dori and Teramachi-dori; narrow stretch lined with stylish shops and puzzling with pedestrians and bicyclists.
Tachikichi – Tomino-kouji-kado, Shijo-dori-Shimogyo-ku; 011-81-75-255-3507; retail-wholesale tableware.
Teramachi-dori – between Oike-dori and Marutamachi-dori; street known for vintage textiles.
Uchu Wagashi – 786 Fujinoki-cho (Kamigyo-ku); 011-81-75-201-4933; uchu-wagashi.jp; tiny sweets shop specializing in wagashi.
Yamaoka Saketen – 555 Botanboko-cho, Senbondori Kamidachiurisagaru (Kamikyo-ku); 011-81-75-461-4772; craft beer illegal in Japan until 1990s so slow to catch on; this open-air market, incongruously, has city’s best selection.



SIGHTS & SITES
Arashiyama & Sagano – start from Randen (Keifuku) Arashiyama Station (western outskirts Kyoto); insidekyoto.com/arashiyama-bamboo-grove; pleasant, touristy district, particularly popular during cherry blossom (early April) and fall (late November) color seasons; Togetsukyo Bridge is well-known, central landmark, as well as Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple, Tenryuji Temple, bamboo groves & pleasure boats available for rent on river; north of central Arashiyama is less touristy, more rural area, with several small temples scattered along wooded mountains’ base; area north of Togetsukyo Bridge is Sagano (Arashiyama technically just refers to mountains on river’s southern bank; another good time to visit is during December’s Hanatoro illumination, when lanterns line bamboo groves & streets.
Byo-do-in – 16 Renge, Uji (Uji City); 011-81-77-421-2861; pref.kyoto.jp/visitkyoto/en/theme/sites/shrines/w_heritage/08/; Temple, formerly Fujiwara-no-Michinaga’s villa; converted by his son, Kanpaku (Imperial Regent), Fujiwara-no-Yorimichi, in 1052 (Fujiwara family glory period); Phoenix Hall (Ho-o-do), Amida Buddha hall, built following year; National Treasure; only building dating back to time of temple’s establishment; graceful appearance conjures up paradise dreamed by Heian aristocracy; garden, designated as special place of scenic beauty, is Heian Period relic; centers around Phoenix Hall, Ajiike Pond, and incorporates surrounding natural scenery, including Uji River and mountains in front; garden was favorite among aristocracy; roughly contemporary with Lady Murasaki, of Tale of Genji; considered equivalent in beauty to Taj Mahal.
Daigo-ji Temple Sanbo-in Palace Garden – 22 Diago, Higashiojicho (Fushimi-ku); 011-81-75-571-0002; aigoji.or.jp/garan/sanboin_detail.html; important temple of Japanese Buddhism Shingon sect & world heritage site; large temple complex includes entire mountainside (main temple grounds are located at mountain base & are connected via hiking trail to several more temple buildings around summit); upon entering main temple grounds, visitors will 1st come across Sanboin, elegant former head priest residence originally constructed in 1115 (current building, along with landscape garden, dates to 1598); short walk further into temple grounds leads to Shimo Daigo (Lower Daigo) area where most other important buildings stand; worth seeing is Kondo (main) Hall, originally built in 926 (current building relocated to Daigoji in 1599 & stores Yakushi Buddha statue); also in Shimo Daigo area is 38m h, 5 storied pagoda that is Kyoto’s oldest verified building (built in 951, pagoda is only structure to survive fires that have repeatedly destroyed Daigoji over centuries); also see Bentendo Hall, probably Daigoji’s most photographed building, next to pond; check out too Reihokan Museum, elegant treasure house, which preserves and displays temple’s large collection of historic documents & art objects; in very back of lower temple grounds, not far from Bentendo Hall, is trailhead to Kami Daigo (Upper Daigo), Daigoji’s original temple grounds, which are located around mountain summit; takes about 1 hour to climb steep trail through forest.
Gion – entertainment district, where, around dusk, geisha and maiko (geisha-in-training) flit down Hanami-koji; wander along Shirakawa Minami-dori, atmospheric street surrounded by preserved wooden structures.
International Manga Museum – Karasuma-Oike, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-254-7414; kyotomm.jp; converted elementary school dedicated to genre.
Ishiyama-dera Temple – 1-1-1 Ishiyama-dera, Otsu-shi; 011-81-77-537-0013; ishiyamadera.or.jp; temple is built atop massive rock on Mount Garan, half-hour train journey from city; begun in mid-8th Century; temple complex, shrine to bodhisattva Kannon (mercy goddess) known for wild beauty; in mossy forest punctuated by neon maroons of Japanese maples and brassy golds of gingkoes; open-sided main hall (hondo) feels like whimsical treehouse.
Kiyomizu Temple – Mount Otowa; 011-81-75-551-1234; kiyomizudera.or.jp; Higashiyama-ku's most famous temple, known throughout Japan for grand views afforded from main hall, constructed over cliff and featuring large wooden veranda; particularly spectacular (and crowded) in spring during cherry-blossom season and in fall during maple leaves' turning; also worth checking out are 3-story pagoda, Otowa Falls, and Jishu Shrine (011-81-75-541-2097), vermilion-colored Shinto shrine behind Kiyomizu's main hall.
Kodai-Ji Temple – Shimogawara-cho, Higashiyama-ku; 011-81-75-561-9966; kodaiji.com; In in ancient Higashiyama’s heart (cobbled streets, elegant Momoyama-era teahouses and temples); set in expansive garden; serene pools swimming with orange carp, carefully tended moss hills, tall bamboo forest, and raked gray sand; many splendid friezes and paintings in main temples (relocated from Fushimi Castle, parts of which used to construct Kodai-ji in early 1600s); temple was memorial to Hideyoshi Toyotomi, commissioned by his wife Nene; on hills overlooking main temple are teahouses designed by tea master Sen-no-Rikyu (identifiable by umbrella-shape bamboo ceilings and thatched roofs); evening illumination shows in April, November, and December are great way to see after dark.
Maruyama Park – Higashiyama-ku Kyoto (Gion); start at vivid, white-and-orange Yasaka Shrine, where locals pray to health and prosperity god; then, wend way through park past gardens, gigantic weeping cherry, and ponds; be sure to detour through hillside cemetery, where views spectacular.
Miho Museum – 300 Tashiro Momodani, Shigaraki (Shiga); 011-81-74-882-3411; miho.or.jp/english/index.htm; I.M. Pei-designed; exquisite collection consists of over 2K pieces, including Syrian floor mosaics, Iranian metal ornaments, Egyptian statuary, Afghani Buddha icons, and Roman frescos; on-site restaurant sells bento (boxed meals) with organic ingredients and tearoom serves Japanese and Western beverages and desserts; from Kyoto Station, take JR Tokaido Line to Ishiyama Station; from there Teisan Line bus to museum takes 50 minutes.
Nanzenji Temple – Nanzenji-Fukuchi-cho, Sakyo-ku; 011-81-75-771-0365; 1 of Kyoto’s 5 great Zen temples.
Nijo Castle – 541 Nijojo-cho, Horikawa-Nishi-hairu, Nijo-Dori, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-841-0096; city.kyoto.jp; UNESCO World Heritage site; shogun castle with magnificently landscaped gardens designed by Kobori Enshu.
Nishiki-Koji Market – Nishiki-koji-dori, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-211-3882; 7-block arcade of produce, seafood, and specialty food stalls.
Onishi Seiwemon Museum – Kamanza-cho, Shinmachi Nishi-iru, Sanjo-tori, Nakagyo-ku; 011-81-75-221-2881; seiwemon-museum.com; tea museum run by 16th generation tea kettle artist.
Pontocho-dori – street lined with bars, restaurants, and giant glowing paper lanterns.
Rozan-ji Temple – 397 Kitanobe-cho 1-chome, Teramachi-dori Hirokohi-agaru, Kamigyo-ku; 011-81-75-231-0355; pref.kyoto.jp/visitkyoto/en/theme/sites/shrines/temples/m_rozan.
Ryoanji Temple – 13 Goryoshita-machi, Goryoshita-cho, Ryoan-ji; 011-81-75-463-2216; ryoanji.jp; Peaceful Dragon Temple; Zen temple and World Heritage Site; best known for Zen garden, simple gravel-and-rock arrangement that inspires peace and contemplation.
Sanjo-dori – between Muromachi-dori and Teramachi-dori; narrow stretch lined with stylish shops and puzzling with pedestrians and bicyclists.
Sanjusangendo Temple – 657 Mawari-cho, Sanjusangendo, Higashiyama-ku; 011-81-75-525-0033; taleofgenji.org/sanjusangendo.html; among Japan’s most transcendant temples.
Shugakuin Palace Gardens – Shugakuin Yabusoe (Sakyo Ward); 011-81-75-211-1215; japan-guide.com/e/e3936.html; set of gardens & outbuildings.
Tales of Genji Museum – 45-26 Uji Higashiuchi, Uji-shi; 011-81-77-439-9300; uji-genji.jp.
Teramachi-dori – between Oike-dori and Marutamachi-dori; street known for vintage textiles.
Yasaka Shrine – 625 Gion-machi, Kitagawa, Gion; 011-81-75-561-6155; web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/yasaka/english/index.html; Shinto shrine.
Zuiryusan – Nanzenji-Fukuchi-cho, Sakyo-ku; 011-81-75-771-0365; also known as Nanzen-ji; 1 of Japan’s best known Rinzai Zen temples; famous for rock garden, sliding doors, and large entrance gate.

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