Monday, August 1, 2011


(does not include Aeolian Islands nor Sicily; does include Capri (Anacapri), Elba, Ponza, Procida & Sardinia)

CAPRI (includes Anacapri)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Il Gelato al Limone – 63 Piazzetta Fontana; 011-39-081-838-9403;; ice cream.

Bars & Nightclubs
Aurora Vino – 10 Via Longano; 011-39-081-837-4458;; wine bar.
Capri Tiberio Palace – 11-15 Via Croce; 011-39-081-978-7111;; drink here is must.
Terrace Lounge & Bar – 4 Via Giuseppe Orlandi (Baia de Napoli); 011-39-081-837-3395;; reasonably-priced Italian wines.

Capri Palace Hotel & Spa – 2b Via Capodimonte; 011-39-081-978-0111;; on island’s highest point; arches, columns, stone floors, and vaulted eilings; travertine baths; elegant and warm.
J.K. Place Capri Hotel – Via Provincale, 225 Marina Grande; 011-39-081-838-4001;; fabulous.
Hotel Caesar Augustus – 4 Via Giuseppe Orlandi (Baia de Napoli); 011-39-081-837-3395;; former Russian prince residence; perched on cliff 1K' above Naples Bay; amazing views; some suites have whirlpools; infinity pool.
Grand Hotel Quisisana – 2 Via Camerelle; 011-39-081-837-0788;; 1845 sanatorium; balconies with wonderful sea views
Hotel Punta Tragara – 57 Via Tragara; 011-39-081-837-0844;; too beautiful for words; designed, in part, by Corbusier.
La Scalinatella – 8 Via Tragara; 011-39-081-837-0633;; among world’s top hotels; near Faraglioni Rocks; Moorish architecture; gorgeous views.
Villa Paradiso – 8 Via Traversa Sopramonte; 011-39-081-837-8640 or 011-39-034-7564-8770;; 10-minute walk from main square, reached by following small, pedestrian walkway leading though historical center; once you reach property’s foot, 164 steps, flanked by flowering bushes; panoramic views, gardens, multi-level terraces, and pool deck; enormous, outdoor space (13K' square); swimming pool set in panoramically overlooking island.

Aurora – 18 Via Fuorlovado; 011-39-081-837-0181;; watu pizza.
La Fontelina – Localita Faraglioni; 011-39-081-837-0845;; blissful coastline views; sun beds for swim and eat scenario.
Le Grotelle – 13 Via dell’Arco Naturale; 011-39-081-837-5719; near Villa Malaparte; some of best typical island food, like ravioli capresi and grilled fish; restaurant is half inside cave and half on terrace.
Il Riccio – 4 Via Gradola (Grotta Azzurra, Anacapri); 011-39-081-837-1380;; featured in Trip to Italy; accessible by boat along at Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) entrance; atop rocky perch; perilous stone staircase zigzags from sea to decadent series of 6 immaculately designed lounge decks with pure white cabanas and loungers clad in nautical blue fabrics; main floor restaurant that oozes of Capri style in almost mythical restaurant transformation; favored restaurant on well-acquainted Capri locals & visitors; panoramic views framed by flowing white drapes; main eatery and bar feature sensational glass-enclosed cooking area modeled after traditional local kitchen with yellow hand painted majolica tiles and blue-matching cupboards worthy of design applause; seafood & traditional Mediterranean cuisine.
Da Tonino – 12 Via Dentecale; 011-39-081-837-6718; more adventurous fare with excellent wine cellar.

Capri Trails – Luigi Esposito; 011-39-034-7368-1699;; one-on-one mountaineering service (really just trails); he knows numerous trails you would not find on your own.

Blu – 57 Via Le Botteghe; 011-39-081-837-6827; Capri institution; chic, small brands.
La Capannina Piu – 12-14 Via delle Botteghe; 011-39-081-837-8899;; gourmet shop; buy limoncello.
Canfora – 3 Via Camerelle; 011-39-081-837-0487;; handmade sandals for generations.
Carthusia – 2 Viale Parco Augusto; 011-39-081-837-0368;; perfumes.
La Conchiglia – 11 Via Le Botteghe; 011-39-081-837-9989;; bookstore.
La Conchiglia – 18 Via Camerelle; 011-39-081-837-8199;; bookstore.
Da Costanzo – 49 Via Roma; 011-39-081-837-8077; sandals.
Faraone Mennelle – 23 Via Fuorlovado; 011-39-081-837-0992;; jewelry.
Grazia Vozza – 22 Via li Campi; 011-39-081-837-4010;; jewelry.
100% Capri – 27-44 Via Fuorlovado; 011-39-081-837-7008;; white linen clothing that lasts for ever.
Sud Capri Gallery – 61 Via Camerelle; 011-39-081-838-9445; boutique; sandals.
Sud Capri Gallery – 4-6 Via Le Botteghe; 011-39-081-837-0165; tiny boutique; sandals.
Vhernier – 8a Via Camerelle; 011-39-081-837-7204;; jewelry.

Sights & Sites
Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo – Piazza San Nicola; 011-39-081-837-2396;; marvelous hand-painted ceramic tile floor, every inch covered with grand scene showing expulsion of Adam and Eve from Garden of Eden; wonderfully preserved floor dates from 1761 and was created by Leonardo Chiaiese, among best ceramic artists working in Naples in 18th century.
Faraglioni Rocks – Via Tragara (end); 3 rock blocks, rising from sea, which have survived coastal landslides, erosion, and all manner of atmospheric corrosion; rocks each given name: (1) still attached to land, “Stella”; (2) separate from 1st block by sea, “Faraglione di Mezzo”; and (3) Faraglione di Fuori or Scopolo (head or promontory) stretching into sea; Faraglione di Fuori is blue tinted lizard (Lacerta viridens faraglionensis) habitat and is only place where it is found; in Faraglione di Mezzo is natural tunnel.
Materita Tower – Viale Axel Munthe (Anacapri); 011-39-081-837-1401; built in 1378 by Carthusian monks to protect population from pirate invasions; purchased by Axel Munthe, who wrote Villa San Michele here.
Punta Carena – magnificent lighthouse; perfect spot where to enjoy swim; no beach but iron ladders lead to water from terraces.
Villa Lysis (Villa Fersen) – Via Lo Capo; 011-39-081-838-6111;; cool, decadent, unfurnished 1905 folly perched on cliff; opium den is where d’Adelsward-Fersen committed suicide.
Villa Malaparte – Giro dell’Arco Naturale (Punta Masullo); to get there, set out from Tragara Belvedere, heading north past Grand Hotel Quisisana, along Via Camarelle; from Belvedere, take steps down to paved coast path; go past sign for Faragliono rocks; after 15 minutes, will see Pompeian-red house; run by Fondazione Ronchi; not open to public.
Villa San Michele Museum – Viale Axel Munthe (Anacapri); 011-39-081-837-1401; after Grotta Azzurra, Anacapri’s most visited tourist attraction; Swedish physician, writer, and recreational archaeologist, Axel Munthe, adjudicated site, previously occupied by ancient roman construction; beautiful Mediterranean gardens; privileged view point, gazing out across entire Naples Bay; open year round.

Spiaggia di Sansone – Bivio Enfola (Viticcio, Portoferraio);; pristine shore (mixture of white sand & smooth white pebbles); transparent water; shallow, too, so popular with families & for snorkeling.
Hotel Hermitage – La Biodola; 011-39-056-59740;; 8 kms from Portoferraio, on bay; built in 1960s next to beach; nestled in mastic, holly oak, arbutus, and rosemary bushes.

Ballini Apicoltura – Cavo; 011-39-056-594-9836;; honey; try, especially, corbezzolo (“strawberry tree”).

PONZA (includes Palmarola)
Punta Papa Wreck – sunken LST-349 dating to 1949.

Piccolo Hotel Luisa – Via Chiaia di Luna; 011-39-077-180-128;; heavy on nautical themes; family-run, simple establishment.
Villa Laetitia – Salita degli Scotti; 011-39-077-180-9886;; 6-room bed & breakfast; tremendous port views in Bourbon-era building; includes buffet breakfast.

Acqua Pazza – 10 Piazza Carlo Pisacane (Porto); 011-39-077-180-643;; island’s finest restaurant; fresh seafood.
A Casa di Assunta – Via Panoramica (Contrada Giancos); 011-39-077-182-0086; homemade pasta and fresh fish.
Da Gerardo – Spiaggia di Frontone; accessible by ferry boat.

Ferry – 011-39-02-2630-2803;; depart from Anzio and Formia on mainland.
Diva Luna – Spiaggia di Sant’Antonio (Porto); 011-39-033-8234-7608;; small outboard boat and speedboat rentals.
Hydrofoil – 011-39-06-984-5083;; depart from Anzio and Formia on mainland.

Sights & Sites
La Cattedrale – Palmarola; bizarre and beautiful geological formation; gray volcanic rock whose stone ridges lean up out of water like enormous cathedral.
Chiaia di Luna – enormous curved bay with massive, curving tuff wall; among few sand beaches.
Palmarola – 6 miles from Ponza; nearly uninhabited island.
Parco Nazionale del Circeo – 107 Via Carlo Alberto (Sabaudia, museum & visitor center) or Villa Fogliano (Fogliano, historic buildings, museum & visitor center); 011-39-077-351-2240; or; visit Zannone, not deforested like other Pontine islands; can traverse (on Zannone) 20 minute footpath to ruins of 1213 monastery, Santo Spirito e Santa Maria.
Piscine Naturali – saltwater pools formed by ancient volcanic activity; where crowds gather.
Pilate’s Grottoes – hand-carved accessible by boat (rented); further on (rounding promontory) are Faraglioni della Madonna (brown stone surfaced rocky stacks).
La Punta della Guardia – south side of island; lighthouse; good place for sunset.
La Punta di Capo Bianco – volcanic stone towers along coast.
Spiaggia di Frontone – small sand beach accessed by ferry from Porto; up from beach is Associazione Culturale Cala Frontone, informal museum and restaurant; homemade views and sweeping island views.

Diva Luna – Spiaggia di Sant’Antonio; 011-39-033-8234-7608;; boat rentals.

Sights & Sites
Spiaggia di Sant’Antonio – small beach.

PROCIDA –; small fishing island where Neapolitans visit; almost no tourism.

Alghero (among island’s most atmospheric villages, dating from 15th Century)
Cala Piscina.
Maria Pia.
Villa Mosca – 17 Via Gramsci; 011-39-079-957-7203;; serves breakfast only; in lovely old home.
Angedras – 41 Bastioni Marco Polo; 011-39-079-973-5078;; great location; order grilled fish with local white wine, like Parallelo 41.
La Conchiglia – beach; 011-39-079-952-214; famous for paella, which must be ordered in morning when you make reservation.
Andrea Padre – port; 011-39-033-093-5350;; for trips to islands.

Baia Sardinia
Phi Beach – beach; 011-39-078-995-5012;; laid-back, sexy, day and night; seafood.

Baunei Ogliastra
Cala Goloritzè – Goloritzè; 011-39-078-266-0000;; among Italy’s most enduringly famous beaches; located at ravine base on idyllic northeastern coast; tiny, but no less beautiful with limestone cliffs, soft ivory sand & striking, blue-green ocean; UNESCO site in 1995.

Hotel Cala di Seta – 62 Via Regina Margherita; 011-39-078-188-304;
Nord Ovest – 10 Lungomare Cristofor Colombo; 011-39-078-177-4949; excellent pizzas and seafood.
Da Pasqualino – 85 Via Regina Margherita; 011-39-078-188-473; popular trattoria that serves local specialities, like bottarga di tonno and casca (tuna with Sardinian-style couscous).
Delcomar Ferry – port; 011-39-078-185-7123; in summer, leaves every hour for Isla di San Pietro (Carloforte); rugged island with beautiful beaches and lagoons surrounded by cliffs.

Isola di Spargi
Cala Granara –; could be mistaken for Tahitian beach; backed by lush island plants & palms; shallow turquoise waters perfect for snorkeling; silvery sand begs for sunbathers.

La Maddalena Olbia-Tempio
La Maddalena Hotel & Yacht Club – Piazza Faravelli; 011-39-078-97941;; 100 room property built over island’s former “Boat Arsenal”; somewhat corporate atmosphere; food is both expensive and uninspired; can arrange boat tours from neighboring marina; pool area very beautiful (wooden deck that looks out over water).
La Gallura – 145 Corso Umberto; 011-39-078-924-648; also hotel; stellar local cuisine.
La Scogliera – beach; 011-39-034-7989-3578;; name means “cliff”; steep prices but lovely ambience and good food.
Trattoria Lio – 011-39-078-973-7507;; family owned.
Smeralda – 7 Via Sotgiu (Olbia); 011-39-078-966-201; for bottarga (dried, pressed mullet or tuna roe).

Porto Cervo
Cala di Volpe – famous for Bermuda-blue water & glamorous Hotel Cala di Volpe resort behind it (though you don’t need to be guest to swim there).
Hotel Cala di Volpe – Costa Smeralda; 011-39-078-997-6111;; on sea.
Hotel Cervo – Piazzetta Fontana; 011-39-078-993-1111;; most affordable and, yet, over $1K nightly.
Hotel Pitrizza – Costa Smeralda; 011-39-078-993-0111;
Hotel Romazzino – Costa Smeralda; 011-39-078-997-7111;
Yacht Club Costa Smeralda – Via della Marina; 011-39-078-990-2200;; Aga Khan presides; 24 guest suites.
I Frati Rossi – Porto Paglia; 011-39-078-994-395;; perfectly prepared dishes, like pasta with clams or red mullet; also, great views.
Vhernier – La Passeggiata; 011-39-034-8448-0681;; jewelry.

Casa Angelo – Sant’Antioco (privately available villa); contact Patrizia Deiana Schoeninger (011-49-761-401-4704 or; 2 bedrooms, upstairs loft, large living-dining area, and kitchen, with wraparound terrace and large, forested land around it.
Hotel del Corso – 32 Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 011-39-078-180-0265;; small, elegant establishment on main avenue, which turns into pedestrian promenade after dark.
Moderno – 82 Via Nazionale; 011-39-078-18-3105; pleasant if slightly down at heels, with breakfast included.
Café Hotel del Corso – 32 Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 011-39-078-180-0265;; small, elegant, with good food.
Max Pizzeria – 81 Corso Vittorio Emanuele; trattoria food.
Shardana – 84 Corso Vittorio Emanuele; trattoria food.

Santa Teresa Gallura
La Coluccia – Localita Conca Verde; 011-39-078-975-8004;; ask for bigger room with sea view.

Sights & Sites
La Palosa – beach with picturesque ruined tower; worth visit for photo ops.

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