(includes Casalnuovo, Ercolano & Ischia)
BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Attanasio – 1-4 Vico Ferrovia; 011-39-081-285-675; tiny bakery; try sfogliatell, especially heavenly sfoglia riccia hot out of oven; clam-shaped pastry comes in 2 varieties (riccia and frolla); riccia more recognizable to Americans (flaky pastry shell filled with sweetened ricotta); frolla has smooth shell.
●Augustus – 47 Via Toledo; 011-39-081-551-3540; desserts.
●Bianco Bio – 13 Via Enrico Alvino (Vomero); 011-39-081-558-3885; biancobio.com; all-organic gelato; take funicular.
●Caffe del Professore – 46 Piazza Trieste e Trento; 011-39-081-403-041; ilverobardelprofessore.com; famous for its rich hazelnut cream coffee; if here for breakfast, have coffee and then trot to La Sfogliatella Mary for pastry.
●La Sfogliatella Mary – 66 Via Toledo (Centro Storico, at Galleria Umberto I); 011-39-081-402-218; never short of clambering crowd; hole-in-wall kiosk that serves some of steamiest, creamiest sfogliatelle riccia (sweet ricotta and candied-citrus-filled pastry) in town; top off your sugar fix with mini Moretto (chocolate babà filled with cocoa cream).
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Barril BereVino – 11 Via Giuseppe Fiorelli; 011-39-081-038-5483; facebook.com/pages/BereVino-WineBar/174033864767; wine bar with covered patio and stark interior.
●Bourbon Street – 52-53 Via Bellini; 011-39-33-4381-8158; bourbonstreetjazzclub.com; jazz.
●Caffe al Barcadero – 2 Banchina Santa Lucia (on Castel dell’Ovo Isola); 011-39-081-222-7023; hidden; Bohemian.
●Enoteca Belledonne – 18 Vico Belledonne (at Chiaia); 011-39-081-403-162; enotecabelledonne.com; wine bar.
●Noir – 58 Vico Acitillo (Vomero); 011-39-34-7051-2211; noirnapoli.com; jazz.
●Skybar – 45 Via Cristoforo Colombo (at Romeo Hotel); 011-39-081-017-5001; romehotel.it; rooftop restaurant.
●Trip – 64 Via Giuseppe Martucci; 011-39-081-1956-8994; tripnapoli.com; locale that defies labels; children’s play groups in morning; theme parties at night.
●Sorgeto Beach – Ischia; difficult to access but worth effort; best thermal springs at beach itself.
●Chiaia Hotel de Charme – 216 Via Chiaia; 011-39-081-415-555; hotel.chiaia.it; pensione in superb central location; former bordello approached through walled courtyard and up arched staircase; small rooms are clean.
●Costantinopoli 104 – 104 Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli; 011-39-081-557-1035; costantinopoli104.it; beautiful restored villa with rooms that look over garden and pool.
●Decumani Hotel de Charme – 15 Via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli; 011-39-081-551-8188; decumani.com; pleasant 19th Century hotel; near city center and train station.
●Fiore de Napoli – 92 Via Francesco Girardi; 011-39-081-1957-7083; in city center; on 18th Century CE building’s 3rd floor; at 20th Century CE’s beginning, Matilde Serao lived here; clean; perfectuly run; roof terrace with stunning views.
●Grand Hotel Parker’s – 135 Corso Vittorio Emanuele (on Vomero’s slopes); 011-39-081-761-2474; grandhotelparkers.it; great 19th Century hotel; very large rooms with Charles X, Louis XIV, and Empire antiques; sea and volcano views; owners also will arrange private tours to their vineyard, Villa Matilde.
●Grand Hotel Vesuvio – 45 Via Partenope; 011-39-081-764-0044; vesuvio.it; 1882 building damaged by WWII bombing; 1st hotel on promenade; grounds with fountains and trees; rooms have parquet floors and marble baths; some rooms have lovely balcony views; excellent rooftop restaurant; ask for 1 of 21 2nd floor suites, replete with 19th Century tapestries (most luxurious).
●Hotel Excelsior – 48 Via Partenope; 011-39-081-764-0111; excelsior.it; beautiful bay views.
●Mezzatorre Resort & Spa – 23 Via Mezzatorre (Forio d’Ischia); 011-39-081-986-111; mezzatorre.com; on rocky headland; in 17 acre park; 22 rooms in red building are best (many have private terraces); large pool; spa.
●Hotel Micalo – 88 Riviera di Chiaia; 011-39-081-761-7131; micalo.it; slick boutique.
●Hotel Palazzo Decumani – 8 Via del Grande Archivio; 011-39-081-420-1379; palazzodecumani.com; recently renovated, 20th Century town house in historic center; 28 simple, stylish rooms set around grand spiral staircase.
●Palazzo Alabardieri – 38 Via Alabardieri (off Piazza dei Martiri); 011-39-081-415-278; palazzoalabardieri.it/en; on quiet street in elegant neighborhood; set behind secluded courtyard; classical and simple rooms.
●Riviera di Chiaia – 281 Riviera di Chiaia; 011-39-081-669-748; riviera281.it (only 3 rooms).
●Romeo Hotel – 45 Via Cristoforo Colombo; 011-39-081-017-5001; romehotel.it; waterfront hotel near ferry docks; all taxi drivers know where it is (important); rooftop restaurant, guest rooms decorated in earth tones with Tabu wood floors; open-space lobby with Francesco Clemente mural; music lounge; sushi bar; huge spa; and 22 suites with dramatic views of Capri and Mt. Vesuvius; also, impressive art collection.
●San Francesco al Monte – 328 Corso Vittorio Emanuele (Vomero); 011-39-081-423-9111; sanfrancescoalmonte.it; best city views; except for swimming pool, lush, terraced grounds haven’t changed much since 16th Century; 45 rooms but #45 is best (plush and private); from sweeping balcony, can see city, sea, and volcano.
●Hotel Terme Manzi – 4 Piazza Bagni (Ischia); 011-39-081-994-722; termimanzihotel.com.
●Antica Cantina del Gallo – 21 Via Alessandro Telesino (Rione Sanita); 011-39-081-544-1521; cantinadelgallo.com; in area outside old city walls; open since 1898; everything handmade; notable for pizza, seafood, and tripe.
●L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – 1 Via Cesare Sersale; 011-39-081-553-9204; damichele.net; perhaps Naples’ most famous pizza.
●Brandi – 2 Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo; 011-39-081-416-928; brandi.it; pizza since 1780.
●La Cantina di Via Sapienza – 40-41 Via Sapienza; 011-39-081-459-078; cantinadiviasapienza.it; for polpette al sugo (meatballs) in red sauce.
●Il Comandante – 45 Via Cristoforo Colombo (at Romeo Hotel); 011-39-081-017-5008/9; romehotel.it; rooftop restaurant.
●A Cucina ‘E Mamma – 101 Via Foria; 011-39-81 449022; paginegialle.it/acucinemamma; restaurant for locals almost exclusively.
●Dora – 30 Via Ferdinando Palasciano; 011-39-081-680-519; tucked away on deserted street; fresh seafood; looks like another run-of-mill trattoria, with bright lighting, old paintings, and blue-and-white checkered tiles; try catch of day, gently roasted with olive oil, salt and lemon, and served with potatoes; spaghetti alle vongole offers delicious contrast of tender clams and al dente pasta; pair seafood with crisp falanghina.
●L’Europeo dei Mattozi – 4 Via Marchese Campodisola; 011-39-081-552-1323; europeomattozzi.it; pizza.
●George’s Restaurant – 135 Corso Vittorio Emanuele (at Grand Hotel Parker’s); 011-39-081-761-2474; grandhotelparkers.it; outdoor seating.
●Gran Caffe Gambrinus – 1-2 Via Chiaia; 011-39-081-417-582; caffegambrinus.com; marbled cafe from late 19th Century that hosts rich and famous (once including Oscar Wilde); sit outdoors to view Piazza del Plebiscito, among most impressive squares in Italy, as well as well-dressed Neapolitans going about their day; come here after opera.
●Jap-One – 30 Via Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia (Piazza dei Martiri); 011-39-081-764-6667; japonegroup.com; sushi; at end of winding back street & walk alone is worth trip.
●Kukai Nibu – 52 Via Carlo de Cesare; 011-39-081-425-888; kukai.it; slightly cramped but high design interior; good sushi and people-watching.
●Locanda N’Tretella – 25 Salita Sant’Anna del Palazzo; 011-39-081-427-783; typically Neapolitan; show up early or reserve.
●Lombardi a Santa Chiara – 59 Via Benedetto Croce; 011-39-081-552-0780; from J-Lo lookalikes to cantankerous nonni, Neapolitans clamber to get into this faded favorite; for classic pizza, hearty pasta, and seafood; vegetarians are spoilt for choice; queues are long, so book ahead.
●Di Matteo – 94 Via dei Tribunali; 011-39-081-455-262; pizza fritta (fried dough stuffed with cheese and ham) is world famous; but must try arancini (fried rice balls with meat and cheese), and crochette di patate (fried mashed potato).
●Da Michele – 1 Via Sersale; 011-39-081-553-9204; damichele.net; legendary pizza.
●Mimi Alla Ferrovia – 21 Via Alfonso D'Aragona (on Piazza Garibaldi); 011-39-081-553-8525; mimiallaferrovia.it; patrons have included Fellini & Totò; serves fine versions of everything from pasta e fagioli (with beans) to sea bass al presidente, baked in pastry crust; owner’s son, Salvatore, is new chef, working wonders in kitchen; not so much see-&-be-seen place as common ground for famous & unknown to mingle, feast, and be of good cheer; given fairly seedy neighborhood, travel here & back by taxi, especially at night.
●Osteria della Mattonella – 13 Via Giovanni Nicotera; 011-39-081-416-541; famous for its polpette (meatballs) in tomato sauce.
●Palazzo Petrucci – 4 Piazza San Domenico Maggiore (Piazza San Domenico Maggiore); 011-39-081-552-4068; palazzopetrucci.it; exquisite.
●Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente – 120-121 Via dei Tribunali; 011-39-081-210-903; ilpizzaiolodelpresidente.it; pizza fritta, arancini, and crochette di patate; renamed after President Bill Clinton visited.
●Pizzeria di Matteo – 94 Via dei Tribunali; 011-39-081-455-262; amoitaly.com/napoli/di_matteo.html; among city’s most popular pizzerias.
●Pizzeria La Notizia – 53-55 Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio; 011-39-081-714-2155; take funicular to Vomero then cab; best pizza.
●Pizzeria Starita – 27-28 Via Materdei; 011-39-081-557-3682 or 011-39-081-544-1485; pizzeriastarita.it; the Neapolitan pizza place; standard by which all pizza measured; try rachetta.
●Ristorante da Dora – 28 Via Ferdinando Palasciano; 011-39-081-680-519; dadora.it; famous for seafood.
●Ristorante Mattozzi Europeo – 4 Via Marchese Campodisola; 011-39-081-552-1323; great seafood.
●Pizzeria Sorbillo – 32 Via Tribuanli; 011-39-081-446-643; sorbillo.it; not pretty but great, thin-crust pizza; there is another Sorbillo pizzeria on this street that is not bad but this is place to wait for.
●Squisitezze – 100 Via Costantinopoli; 011-39-081-401-578; lastanzadelgusto.com; cheese bar and covivial osteria; serves some of most innovative food in city; order arancino di mare and birramisu, re-imagined version of dessert.
●La Stanza del Gusto – 100 Via Costantinopoli; 011-39-081-401-578; lastanzadelgusto.com; more formal counterpart to Squisitezze.
●Tender – 5 Via Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia (Piazza dei Martiri); 011-39-081-764-3143; japonegroup.com/tender-sushi-bar; sushi; less manic than Jap-One.
●La Trattoria Il Focolare – Via Cretaio al Crocefisso (Barano, Ischia); 011-39-081-902-944; trattoriafocolare.it; rustic dining in hills between Casamicciola and Barano; famous for rabbit stew.
●Trattoria Nennella – 105 Vicolo Lungo Teatro Nuovo; 011-39-081-414-338; digilander.libero.it/trattorianennella/nennella.htm; must visit; traditional Neapolitan food, excellent prices and quality; nutty waitstaff.
●Trianon da Ciro – 42-46 Via Pietro Colletta; 011-39-081-553-9426; pizza and beer with great piazza view.
●Umberto – 30 Via Alabardieri; 011-39-081-418-555; umberto.it; simple, elegant, playful; Slow Food movement effort; should not be missed; try E tubettoni d’ ’o treddeta; also, good pizza.
●Zero Sushi Bar – 45 Via Cristoforo Colombo (at Romeo Hotel); 011-39-081-017-5001; romehotel.it.
●Zi’ Teresa – 1 Borgo Marinaro; 011-39-081-764-2565; on port in center-city harbor (Borgo Marinaro); open since 1944; elegantly decorated with airy Mediterranean tiles; large terrace opening onto small harbor, with tables draped in linen tablecloths and silver cutlery; book ahead to make sure you get place as close to seafront as possible and enjoy unspectacular but perfectly prepared seafood pastas and grilled fish.
●Arte Card – artecard.it; official, Naples-region, arts & culture pass for both admission to certain sights and transportation thereto.
●Silvia Braggio – firstname.lastname@example.org or silviaguide.it; licensed archaeological guide with degree in English.
●Tirrenian Charter – 191 Via Arenaccia; 011-39-081-599-3068; tirreniancharter.com; charter private boat to Capri or Ischia.
●Antichita’ Costantinopoli – 100 Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli; 011-39-081-447-004; Baroque and Rococo antiques, including books and monogrammed silver, picture frames.
●Ascione – 19 Piazzetta Matilde Serao; 011-39-081-421-111 (must call for appointment); ascione.it; high-end jeweler on Galleria Umberto’s 2nd floor, across from Teatro San Carlo; lustrous rings, pearlescent bracelets, and other baubles all made from coral, in nearby Torre del Greco; museum next door (cameos and other coral jewelry from 1805-present).
●Isaia – 44 Via Roma (Casalnuovo); 011-39-081-521; originally fabric manufacturer; in 1957, Enrico Isaia decided to extend to producing custom-made suits; brand has grown considerably, but remains true to tradition; Gianluca Isaia now cultivates.
●Luigi Borelli – 68 Via Gaetano Filangieri; 011-39-081-423-8273; luigiborelli.com; bespoke tailor.
●Livio De Simone – 15 Via Domenico; 011-39-081-764-3827; liviodesimone.com; hand-painted summer dresses.
●Anna Mattuozo – 26 Viale Gramsci; 011-39-081-663-874; annamattuozo.it; shirts; some contend finest shirt source in world; array of distinctive fabrics; owner sews shirt flawlessly fit to form.
●Antonio Panico – 29 Via Carducci; 011-39-081-415-804; sartoriapanico.it; suits; 2nd fittings required, as are appointments.
●Esprit Nouveau – 20 Via Calabritto; 011-39-081-215-3793; vintage fabrics and out-of-production furniture.
●Marinella – 287 Riviera di Chiaia; 011-39-081-764-4214; marinellanapoli.it; silk products (scarves, shirts, and ties) and some leather goods; since 1914; beautiful.
●Anna Matuozzo – 26 Viale Gramsci; 011-39-081-663-874; annamatuozzo.it; custom-fitted shirts for men and women.
●Eddy Monetti – 45 Via dei Mille; 011-39-081-407-064; eddymonetti.it; for men’s hats.
●Eddy Monetti – 8 Piazza Santa Caterina; 011-39-081-403-229; eddymonetti.it; for women’s hats.
●Mariano Rubinacci – 26 Gaetano Filangieri; 011-39-081-415-793; marianorubinacci.net; bespoke tailor.
●Pasticceria Volpe – 225 Viale Colli Arminei; 011-39-081-741-9657; pasticceriavolpe.it; worth special visit although in less than aesthetic environment; near National Museum of Capidomonte; order syrupy babas, mini-sfogliatelle, mignon moderna (mini-mousse cakes).
●Raro – 52 Via Giuseppe Martucci; 011-39-081-761-8461; raro-design.com; contemporary housewares.
●Sartoria Solito – 256 Via Toledo; 011-39-081-414-095; sartoriasolito.it; tailor.
●Studio Trisorio – 215 Riviera di Chiaia; 011-39-081-414-306; studiotrisorio.com; art gallery.
●Talarico – 4B Vico due Porte a Toledo; 011-39-081-407-723; mariotalarico.it; handcrafted umbrellas since 1860 with exotic wood handles.
●Ulturale – 115 Via Carlo Poerio; 011-39-081-248-1151; ulturalecravatte.it; ties (just 5 cut from each bolt).
SIGHTS & SITES
●Castel dell’Ovo – tiny island where Naples said to have begun.
●Castel Sant’Elmo – 20 Via Tito Angelini (atop Vomero Hill, near Certosa di San Martino); 011-39-081-229-4401; star-shaped structure with 6 points and several moats; built by Angevins in 1329 (called Belforte); remade into present fortress by Viceroy Pedro Toledo in 16th Century; used as prison during Masaniello revolution in 1799; great bay and city views.
●Catacombe di San Gaudioso – 124 Via della Sanita; 011-39-081-544-1305; santamariadellasanita.it; daily tours (9:30-12:30).
●Catacombe di San Gennaro – 16 Via Capodimonte; 011-39-081-741-1071; Tue-Sun (9-12) for guided tours.
●Centro Storico – historic city center.
●Chiesa San Lorenzo Maggiore – Piazza San Gaetano (off Via dei Tribunali, 3 blocks west of Via Duomo); 011-081-39-290-580 or 011-39-081-211-0860 (excavations); sanlorenzomaggiorenapoli.it; Naples’ most beautiful medieval church; famous for literary past (Giovanni Boccaccio met Fiammetta here in 1334, attached convent hosted Francesco Petrarca, Ann Radcliffe’s Italian set in part here); 6th Century basilica, rebuilt in 1270 by Carlo I d’Angiò and successor in Gothic style; innumerable artworks within, including 13th and 14th Century frescoes, as well as beautiful altars and monumental tombs; Chapter Hall and monastery refectory, built in 13th Century; from 14th Century cloister, enter Greek and Roman excavations (from Roman Macellum, 1st Century city market, complete with merchant stalls, to paleochristian basilica, to medieval building to, finally, existing buildings).
●Chiesa Santa Maria delle Anime dell Purgatorio – 39 Via Tribunali (Spaccanapoli); 011-39-081-292-622; incontrinapoletani.it; representative Baroque church built in 17th Century; façade with funerary decorations, skulls and bronze-crossed shin-bones, probably designed by architect Cosimo Fanzago; portal by sculptor Giuseppe de Marino; interior has ornamental friezes and colored marbles behind altar (by Dionisio Lazzari); excellent art works include San Alessio Moribondo (Luca Giordano), Madonna e le Anime Purganti (Massimo Stanzione), and Monumento Sepolcrale di Giulio Mastrilli (Andrea Vaccaro).
●Cimetero di Santa Maria del Pianto – Via Santa Maria del Pianto (Poggioreale); 011-39-081-795-7509; significantcemeteries.org; includes Church of Santa Maria del Pianto (“Wailing”); by architect Antonio Picchiatti Francis; originally built to contain plague dead from 1656.
●Galleria di Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano – 185 Via Toledo; 011-39-081-781-1656; palazzozevallos.com; note, see Caravaggio’s Martyrdom of Saint Ursula (1610, last known work).
●Herculaneum & Pompeii – separate sights but both worth visiting, despite tourist crowds.
●Mercato di Pugliano – Via Pugliano (Ercolano); Italy’s largest vintage clothing market.
●La Mortella – 39 Via F. Calise (Ischia); 011-39-081-986-220; Ischia.it/mortella; tropical paradise-like garden.
●Mount Vesuvius – Ercolano Scavi; buses run to top or can take 30-minute walk.
●Museo de Arte Donna Regina (MADRe) – 79 Via Settembrini; 011-39-081-562-4561; museomadre.it; modern art museum; among country’s best contemporary art museums.
●Museo Archeologico Nazionale – 19 Piazza Museo; 011-39-081-442-2149; marketplace.it/museo.nazionale; includes gigantic replica of Pompeii that brings buried civilization to life, along with artifact trove (medical scalpels, coins, and etched horn dice).
●Museo Cappella Sansevero – 19 Via F. De Sanctis; 011-39-081-551-8470; museosansevero.it; marble veiled Christ statue is spellbinding.
●Museo Nazionale di Capidomonte – 2 Via di Milano; 011-39-84-880-0288; museo-capodimonte.it; Farnese collections, inherited from Bourbons and accrued down years, form galleries’ nucleus; essentially chronological presentational layout allows visitors to trace major movements in Italian art history and contextualize them against foreign examples; among treasures are Titian’s Danaë and Paul III with His Nephews, Masaccio’s Crucifixion, Bellini’s Transfiguration, Breughel’s Parable of Blind, Raphael’s Holy Family & Caravaggio’s Flagellation of Christ (1607); gardens worth visit in and of themselves.
●Museum & Historical Archives of Teatro di San Carlo – Palazzo Reale; 011-39-06-3996-7050; memus.org; filled with operatic history ephemera (antique costumes, etc.).
●Naples Cathedral (Duomo di Napoli, Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assent or Cattedrale di San Gennaro) – Piazzetta Guglia del Duomo (147 Via del Duomo); 011-39-081-449-097; thecatholictravelguide.com/NaplesCathedral.htmlor museosangennaro.it/en; Naples founded in 4th Century on Greek temple (dedicated to Apollo) site; only baptistery (5th Century) survives from this early period; present building built in French Gothic style in 1294-1323, begun by Charles I & completed under Robert Wise; several reconstructions & renovations since; in 1407, west facade rebuilt by Antonio Baboccio after earthquake destruction; remaining building rebuilt after another earthquake in 1456; west facade renovated in Neo-Gothic style (1877-1905) by Enrico Alvino; only portal survives from medieval facade; large nave has 16 piers that incorporate more than 100 classical granite columns from Africa & East; decoration is mostly Baroque (side walls bear portraits of 46 saints painted by Luca Giordano (d. 1705) & ornate ceiling by Fabrizio Santafede in 1621); over nave central doorway are several important Angevin tombs: Charles I of Anjou (d. 1285); Charles Martel (d. 1296); & his wife Clementina of Habsburg (monuments by Domenico Fontana in 1599); north transept contains tomb of Innocent IV (d. 1254), Cosmatesque work of 1315, & tomb of Andrew of Hungary, who married Joan I & murdered by strangling, possibly on her orders, in 1345; extending from nave left side is Basilica di Santa Restitute (Capella di Santa Restitute); oldest church in Naples & cathedral original site; 27 columns may be from ancient Greek temple & Early Christian mosaic floor fragments have been revealed (visitors can tour some ancient features, including Greco-Roman mosaic floor, in excavations beneath chapel; on apse right side (in Santa Restitute) is ancient baptistery, known as Chapel of San Giovanni in Fonte; dating from 5th Century, it has square plan & square dome; Byzantine mosaics (also 5th Century) preserved in dome, centering on golden Chi-Rho with Alpha & Omega on blue background with stars; narrative mosaics lower down, some of which are quite fragmentary; off nave right aisle is Chapel of St. Januarius (Capella di San Gennaro), built by Francesco Grimaldi in 1608-37 in fulfillment of vow made by Naples citizens; chapel also functions as cathedral treasury (Tesoro) & is elaborately decorated with Baroque art; there are no less than 7 altars, 4 of which have paintings by Domenichino; tabernacle behind main altar enshrines silver reliquary bust (1305) containing head of St. Januarius; large gilt-bronze grille separates chapel from nave; other notable side chapels include 5th & 7th on left, with 13th Century bas reliefs, & 6th on left, with Byzantine-style mosaic of Virgin Enthroned by Lello da Roma (1322); cathedral patron saint, St. Januarius (San Gennaro) was Italian bishop martyred in Pozzuoli under Diocletian around 305 CE; his body was transported to Naples Cathedral around 400 CE; very little known about his life or specifics of his death; most accounts date from several centuries later; Capella di San Gennaro is home to both reliquary bust (containing his head) & crypt altar containing 2 vials of his blood, which famously liquefies several times each year; make sure to see Museum of Treasury of San Gennaro while there; .
●Palazzo delle Arti Napoli (PAN) – 60 Via dei Mille; 011-39-081-795-8604; palazzoartinapoli.net; pink 17th Century palazzo houses modern art exhibits.
●Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano – 185 Via Toledo; 011-39-081-781-1656; palazzozevallos.com; elegant; 2nd floor gallery displays Caravaggio’s Martyrdom of Saint Ursula, recently restored.
●Pio Monte della Misericordia – 253 Via dei Tribunali; 011-39-081-446-944; piomontedellamisericordia.it; Caravaggio’s masterpiece, Seven Works of Mercy (1607); for best view, take elevator upstairs to picture gallery.
●San Martino Museum – 1 Largo San Martino (Sant’Elmo, on Vomero); 011-39-081-578-1769; museosanmartino.campaniabeniculturali.it; since 1866, monastery complex Certosa di San Martino (St. Martin’s Charterhouse) has housed National Museum of San Martino; includes church, charterhouse, beautiful monastery yards, and terraced garden, from which breathtaking Naples Gulf views; monastery building began under Charles of Anjou (Duke of Calabria) and finished in 1368; numerous frescoes, marble paneling, woodcarvings, and floor mosaics; church, Chiesa delle Donne, decorated with Lanfranco frescoes; museum located in former monks’ living quarters; displays exhibits from different Neapolitan eras; also folk art section, marine-, and Vesuvius section, and famous Neapolitan nativity scene collection, including Presepe Cuciniello (“Cuciniello’s crib,” 162 people, 80 animals, 28 angels, and about 450 miniature items, among finest nativity scenes); includes “must-see” paintings such as Micco Spadaro’s Lazzaretto at Largo Mercatello.
●Santa Chiara Cloister – 49 Via Santa Chiara (Centro Storico western end, just off Piazza del Gesù); 011-39-081-797-1224; monasterodisantachiara.com; 14th Century frescoes alone worth special visit; among most beautiful and beloved churches in Naples; set in walled, citadel-like complex; rare example of city’s austere Gothic history (Angevin Dynasty, 1266-1442); early 14th Century project of King Robert Wise and his wife Queen Sancha Majorca; best viewed from above, from vantage point such as Piazzale San Martino; restyled in 18th Century, work of Neapolitan painter, sculptor and architect Domenico Antonio Vaccaro; nearly completely destroyed by Allied air raids on August 4, 1943; Majolica Tiled Cloister redesigned as part of Domenico Antonio Vaccaro’s remodel and adorned in hand-painted Neapolitan ceramic tiles by Donato and Giuseppe Massa is located behind church; from there can reach Museum of Works (documents restoration and houses fine collection of sculpture, pottery, reliquaries and decorative art that survived WWII bombings); outside is 1st Century Roman Thermal Bath Complex that emerged after air raids; also, 18-19th Century Neapolitan Presepe (nativity) collection in small room just off cloister.
●Spaccanapoli – city’s modern thoroughfare, walk through backstreets.
●Stromboli – accessible by boat; steep trail takes about 2.5 hours; wise to hire guide; try to find energy to least reach L’Osservatorio, restaurant with eruption views (45-minute walk).
●Subway System – metro.na.it; over past decade, city has been upgrading subway system sections; currently, on lines 1 and 6, there are 11 different “Art Stations,” housing 180 works by 90 internationally-renowned artists; and, the stations don’t just house art – they are art; Milanese furniture designer Alessandro Mendini designed 2 stations, starting with Salvator Rosa (Vomero Hill); Gae Aulenti (Paris’ Musee d’Orsay) created 2 others, including Dante (glass and metal station that is 4-level escalator maze); Monte St. Angelo subway station, designed by Anish Kapoor, in Traiano district, resembles descent into underworld (2 different entrances, rust-colored steel mass or aluminum tube).
●Teatro di San Carlo – 98 Via San Carlo; 011-39-081-797-2111; teatrosancarlo.it; Europe’s longest-running opera house and UNESCO World Heritage Site; never closed, even during WWII.
●Via San Gregorio Armeno – street notable for nativity scene shops.
●Via Toledo – home to excellent shops.
●Villa Campolieto – Corso Resina (Ercolano); 011-011-39-081-732-2134; villevesuviane.net; trompe l’oeil wall paintings distinguish this villa built in 1775 for Prince Luzio di Sangro.
●Villa Comunale Park – near Chiaia Riviera; stroll on Sunday.