Saturday, August 20, 2011

COLOMBIA

(does not include Bogota)

BARANQUILLA (includes Santa Marta)
Hotels
La Casa – 3-52 Calle 18; 011-57-311-390-4091; gorgeous and lovingly restored, 3 units; high ceilings, antiques, and marble floors.
Restaurants
Agave Azul – 3-58 Calle 14; 011-57-318-598-1858; theagaveazul.com; Mexican food in Centro Historico.
Ben & Josep’s – 18-57 Carrera 1; 011-57-317-280-5039; popular Belgian-Spanish steak house.
Donde Chucho – 2-17 Calle 19; 011-57-5-421-4663; tucked in quiet corner across from Parque de los Novios; 1 of Santa Marta’s premier gourmet restaurants; old Italy delicacies; pasta (6 types) and 8 sauces; cannelloni, ravioli, and 4 versions of lasagna, plus antipastos, risottos, and seafood.
Gourmet Plaza Bistro – 3-103 Calle 18; 011-57-317-453-9355; crepes and French food.
Santa Mesa – 3-38 Calle 17 (Santa Marta); 011-57-5-421-7399; hand-crafted decor and food.
Sights & Sites
Cathedral – Carrera 4 & Calle 14; built in 1766.
Ciudad Perdida – trek from Santa Marta; 011-57-317-423-3276; 16th Century Tayrona Indian village.
Parque de Los Novios – town square in Centro Historico.
Tayrona National Park – 37K acre ecotourism park including beaches, mangroves, reefs, and Tayrona Indian ruins.



CALI
Bars & Nightclubs
Delirio – 13-34 Carrera 2A Oeste (Santa Teresita, Valle); 011-57-2-893-7610; delirio.com.co; salsa club that is part Cirque du Soleil.
La Fuente Salsa Club – Cuarta Norte (between North 15th and North 16th Streets, diagonally from Club Colombia); tiny, student-y club with cheap beer.
Guayusa – Cuarta Norte (between North 15th and North 16th Streets, diagonally from Club Colombia, next door to La Fuente Salsa Club); more focused on Latin jazz.
Tin Tin Deo – 38-71 Calle 5; 011-57-2-514-1537; tintindeo.com; salsa club.
Zaperoco – 16-46 Avenida 5N; 011-57-2-661-2040; zaperocobar.com.



CARTAGENA (includes Islas del Rosario & San Pedro de Majagua)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Casa Pajaro y Emilio Hernandez – 10-113 Calle de la Media Luna (Getsemani); 011-57-5-660-6801; casapajaroartegelatoycafe.blogspot.com; art gallery, cafe, ice cream shop, and wine bar.
Bars & Nightclubs
Mr. Babilla – 9B-137 Calle Arsenal; 011-57-5-664-8616; misterbabilla.com; by far Cartagena’s most famous nightclub.
Bazurto Social Club – 30-42 Avenia del Centenario Carrera 9 (Getsemani); 011-57-5-664-3124; bazurtosocialclub.com; cafe and bar.
La Carbonera – 9A-47 Avenida del Arsenal (Getsemani); 011-57-5-664-6237; plays little bit of everything; open daily until 4 a.m.
Casa Pajaro y Emilio Hernandez – 10-113 Calle de la Media Luna (Getsemani); 011-57-5-660-6801; casapajaroartegelatoycafe.blogspot.com; art gallery, cafe, ice cream shop, and wine bar.
Café Havana – Calle Media Luna & Calle del Guerrero (Getsemani); 011-57-315-690-2566; cafehavanacartagena.com; dedicated to Cuban music; open daily until 4 a.m.; also offers light fare and decent sandwiches; among more atmospheric places in town; often live music; clientele tends to be foreigners.
Tu Candela – 32-25 Portal de los Dulces (El Centro); 011-57-5-664-8787; narrow, shotgun-style layout; feels like partying in wine cave; exposed brick walls decorated with brass instruments, and old transistor radios, and tribal masks; cover charge recoupable in drinks.
Bar Donjuan – 34-60 Calle del Colegio; 011-57-5-664-3857; good place for appetizers and drink.
Malagana Café & Bar – 31-55 Calle Tripita y Media (Getsemani); 011-57-5660-1360; facebook.com/malaganacafe.
Via Appia – 33-46 Calle Santo Domingo (El Centro); 011-57-4-664-9175; lively tapas bar; good place for evening drinks; also, big screen tv projects either football matches or music videos.
La Vitrola – 2-01 Baloco; 011-57-5-664-8243; convivial spot with potted palms and dapper 6-man Cuban band.
Hotels
Casa Pestagua – Calle Santo Domingo (off Santo Domingo Square); 011-57-5-664-9510; casapestagua.com; former aristocrat’s palace, now chic, luxury boutique; 11 spacious rooms, each with individual, Colonial style décor; high ceilings, marble floors, 19th Century antiques, and modern amenities; Master Suite has exclusive access to small roof terrace with city views; bar and pool.
Hotel Agua – Calle 35; 011-57-5-664-9479; hotelagua.com.co; private, small, stylish; frescoed-ceilings; 6 rooms filled with dark antiques and soft white bedding; sitting rooms open onto courtyard; rooftop terrace; pool has cathedral tower view.
Hotel Charleston Santa Teresa – 31-23 Carrera 13 (Cartagena de Indias, at Centro Plaza de Santa Teresa); 011-57-5-664-9494; hotelcharlestonsantateresa.com.
Hotel San Pedro de Majagua – Isla Grande (Islas del Rosario); 011-57-5-650-4465, ext. 4069; hotelmajagua.com/en.
Sofitel Cartagena Santa Clara – 39-29 Calle del Torno (San Diego); 011-57-5-650-4700; sofitel.com; in 1621 Monastery; Gabriel Garcia Marquez lives in modern house across street.
Tcherassi Hotel + Spa – 6-21 Calle del Sargento Mayor; 011-57-5-664-4445 or 866-589-3411; tcherassihotels.com; restored, 250 year-old mansion; 7 rooms and suites; outdoor bar and Italian restaurant.
Restaurants
Bazurto Social Club – 30-42 Avenia del Centenario Carrera 9 (Getsemani); 011-57-5-664-3124; bazurtosocialclub.com; cafe and bar.
Casa Pajaro y Emilio Hernandez – 10-113 Calle de la Media Luna (Getsemani); 011-57-5-660-6801; casapajaroartegelatoycafe.blogspot.com; art gallery, cafe, ice cream shop, and wine bar.
Club de Pesca – Avenida Miramar; 011-57-5-660-4594; clubdepesca.com; lovely bay view; seafood.
Donde Socorro – 8B-34 Calle 25 (Getsemani, Calle Larga); 011-57-5-664-9062; dondesocorro.com; typical dishes in unpretentious atmosphere; try fried red snapper; do not confuse with other restaurants called “Socorro.”
8-18 Restaurante – 2-124 Calle Gastelbondo Local 8 (Centro Historico); 011-57-5-664-2632 or 011-57-317-426-8194; restaurante8-18.com; seafood; specializes in ceviches; also good is oxtail in red wine reduction with mashed potatoes.
Hotel Charleston Santa Teresa – 31-23 Carrera 13 (Cartagena de Indias, at Centro Plaza de Santa Teresa); 011-57-5-664-9494; hotelcharlestonsantateresa.com; rooftop terrace is perfect place to enjoy patacones (fried plantains) and other Colombian finger foods (such as arepas and carimanolas (yucca fritters stuffed with beef); also, beautiful view.
Mila – 35-76 Calle de la Iglesia; 011-57-5-664-4607; pastelariamilavargas.com; for breakfast or afternoon pick-me-up; try dulce de leche iced brownie and/or coconut lemonade.
Oh! La La – 9A Calle 25 (Getsemani); 011-57-5-660-1757; Colombian-French fusion.
La Perla – 4-42 Calle de Ayos (Centro Historico); 011-57-5-664-2157; seafood; try piqueo costeno (stuffed fritter sampler) and tiraditos (spicy ceviche).
El Portal de los Dulces – Calle de las Carretas (El Centro, on Plaza de los Coches); homemade sweets; try cocadas (coconut delights) and bolitas de tamarindo (tamarind balls).
Restaurante Donjuan – 34-60 Calle del Colegio; 011-57-5-664-3857; chef formally at Arzak (Spain).
Hotel San Pedro de Majagua – Isla Grande (Islas del Rosario); 011-57-5-650-4465, ext. 4069; hotelmajagua.com/en; must have fresh grilled lobster.
Malagana Café & Bar – 31-55 Calle Tripita y Media (Getsemani); 011-57-5660-1360; facebook.com/malaganacafe.
El Santisimo – 39-62 Calle del Torno; 011-57-5-660-1531; elsantisimo.com; traditional Cartagena cuisine; ask for table on top-floor deck; try obatala (slow-cooked beef with coconut rice).
Vera – 6-21 Calle del Sargento Mayor (at Tcherassi Hotel); 011-57-5-664-4445; tcherassihotels.com; in restored, 250 year-old mansion; ask for lulo juice (tastes like lime and rhubarb).
La Vitrola – 2-01 Baloco; 011-57-5-664-8243; convivial spot with potted palms and dapper six-man Cuban band; try carpaccio de mero (grouper sliced paper-thin and dressed with lime and olive oil) or grilled langostinos.
Shopping
Casa Pajaro y Emilio Hernandez – 10-113 Calle de la Media Luna (Getsemani); 011-57-5-660-6801; casapajaroartegelatoycafe.blogspot.com; art gallery, cafe, ice cream shop, and wine bar.
Sights & Sites
Islas del Rosario – better beaches than in Cartagena; 45-minute boatride away.
Adolfo Mejia Theater – 38-10 Plaza de la Merced; 011-57-5-664-8844; ticartagena.com/en/things-to-do/art-culture/adolfo-mejia's-theatre-of-dreams; built in 1911 to celebrate 100 years Colombian independence.
San Pedro de Majagua – bioluminescent bay (best to book at least 1 night at Hotel San Pedro de Majagua).



CHIA
Bars & Nightclubs
Andres Carne de Res – 11A-56 Calle 3; 011-57-1-863-7880; andrescarnederes.com; bizarre combination of dance club and steakhouse but excellent for both.
Restaurants
Andres Carne de Res – 11A-56 Calle 3; 011-57-1-863-7880; andrescarnederes.com; bizarre combination of dance club and steakhouse but excellent for both.



CHOCO (includes Nuqui & Quibdo
Hotels
El Cantil – Vereda Termales Piedra Piedra; 011-574-448-0767 or 011-574-255-7355; elcantil.com/en/lodging-hotel-nuqui; 7 comfortable rooms.
Sights & Sites
PNN Ensenada de Utría – Ensenada de Utría (near Bahia Solano & Nuqui); parquesnacionales.gov.co/portal; rich mangroves & abundant marine wildlife converge on Pacific Coast; various Emberá Indian & Black community settlements in park; ocelots, pacaranas, agoutis, deer, wild pigs, silky anteaters, sloths & bats; check out Playa Blanca Island, Utría Cove, Almejal Beach, and Chadó & El Tigre waterfalls; great whale viewing.



MEDELLIN
Bars & Nightclubs
Crista – 1-150 Carrera 43 (El Poblado, at Centro Comercial La Strada); 011-57-4-311-0539; cristaclub.com.
Palmahia – 85b-121 Carrera 42; 011-57-4-362-5757; palmahia.com; discotheque.
Hotels
Art Hotel Medellin – 9-31 Carrera 41; 011-57-4-369-7900; arthotel.com.co; 4-room boutique hotel; soaring brick walls; on quiet, uncrowded street.
Charlee – 37-16 Calle 9A (Parque Lleras, El Poblado); N/A; thecharlee.com or desireshotels.com; in Lleras Park; 44 rooms; rooftop pool.
Hotel Dann Carlton – 7-50 Carrera 43A (Avenida El Poblado); 011-57-4-444-5151; hotelesmedellin.danncarltoncom; 200 rooms; large outdoor pool; elegant.
Restaurants
Ajiacos y Mondongos – 42-46 Calle 8 (El Poblado); 011-57-4-266-5505; medellinexplorer.com/ajiacos-y-mondongos; tiny gem; has attracted celebrities like Julio Iglesias and Oscar de la Renta; offers only 3 dishes: tripe soup, cazuela con frijoles (beef with beans), and ajiaco (chicken soup); lunch counter.
Bonuar – 19A-100 Carrera 44; 011-57-4-235-3577; bonuar.com; stylish but informal; on museum of modern art museum’s ground floor; Creole fusion; popular for brunch, in particular; often has live music at night.
Carmen – 10A-27 Carrera 36; 011-57-4-311-9625; carmnmedellin.com; reservations necessary; 2 dining floors, both with lovely outdoor seating; international-California cuisine.
Ferro – 43A-29 Calle 8 (El Poblado); 011-57-4-444-8477; facebook.com/pages/Restaurante-Ferro/212829845479293; grilled meats.
Shopping
Maria Camila Mesa – 7-59 Carrera 34 (Centro Comercial Oviedo, Local 2104); 011-57-4-266-5254; mariacamilamesa.com; local jewelry, arts & crafts, clothing, etc.
Sights & Sites
Botanical Gardens of Medellín Joaquín Antonio Uribe – 51D-14 Calle 73; 011-57-4-444-5500; botanicomedellin.org; almost 40 acres dedicated to orchids, plants, botany, and nature in general; more than 5K individual plants representing more than 1K different species; in 1972 became formally known as Joaquín Antonio Uribe Botanical Gardens; he was well-respected and accomplished writer, educator, artist, naturalist, and botanist during latter part 1800s and early 20th Century.
Museo de Antioquia – 52-43 Carrera 52; 011-57-251-3636; museodeantioquia.org.co; houses large Botero and Pedro Nel Gomez collection.
Parque Arvi – Carrera 36; 011-57-414-2979; parquearvi.org; take gondola up to this sprawling mountain wilderness with hiking trails, hotels, and butterfly enclosure.
Parque Biblioteca España – Carrera 33B, #107A-100; 011-57-4-385-7598; reddebibliotecas.org.co; gift from Spain; 3 hillside stone buildings that resemble abstract Easter Island statutes; designed by Giancarlo Mazzanti.
El Retiro – small town nearby; picturesque.



META
Sights & Sites
Caño Cristales – La Macarena; 011-57-305-340-6794 (tour provider); cano-cristales.com/en/cano-cristales-rio-los-cinco-colores (tour provider); for most of year, Caño Cristales is indistinguishable from any other river: rocks covered in dull green mosses are visible below cool, clear current; however, for brief period every year, blossoms in vibrant explosion of colors (short span between dry & wet seasons, when water level is just right); unique plant species that lines river floor (Macarenia clavigera) turns brilliant red, offset by splotches of yellow & green sand & blue water; located in remote, isolated area not easily accessible by road; opened to visitors in 2009; visitors are not permitted to stay overnight or cook.



PEREIRA (includes Manizales & Santa Rosa de Cabal)
Hotels
Sazagua – Via Cerritos Entrada 4 (km 8); 011-57-6-337-9895; sazagua.com; stylish; spa.
Sights & Sites
Los Nevados National Park – Manizales; parquesnacionales.gov.co; in Cordillera Central; 5.3K m high volcano (Nevado del Ruiz) is dominating feature.
Santa Rosa de Cabal Hot Springs – 15-41 Calle 14; 011-57-313-644-3952 or 011-57-320-680-3615; termales.com.co; also has hotel where can stay.



POPAYAN
Sights & Sites
Old City – historic downtown among Latin America’s most beautiful and best preserved districts; preserved colonial architecture covering more than 4 centuries.



QUINDIO
Hotels
Hacienda Bambusa – Armenia; 011-57-311-506-9915; haciendabambusa.com; birders’ dream.

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