Wednesday, August 24, 2011

TEXAS-BIG BEND

ALPINE
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
La Trattoria Cafe – 901 East Holland Avenue; 432-837-2200; latrattoriacafe.com; friendly bistro on Highway 90.

Bars & Nightclubs
Big Bend Brewing Company – US 90; 432-837-3700; bigbendbrewing.com; possibly most remote brewery in America.
Harry’s Tinaja – 412 East Holland Avenue; 432-837-5060; harrys-tinaja.com; beer-&-wine dive bar; dancing.
Reata, Alpine – 203 North 5th Street; 432-837-9232; reata.net/alpine-texas-restaurant.html‎; cozy restaurant; patio; Texas cooking.

Hotels
Holland Hotel – 209 West Holland Avenue; 432-837-2800; thehollandhoteltexas.com; boutique, 25-room hotel.

Restaurants
Alicia’s Mexican Restaurant – 708 East Gallego Avenue; 432-837-2802; great hamburgers.
Reata, Alpine – 203 North 5th Street; 432-837-9232; reata.net/alpine-texas-restaurant.html‎; cozy restaurant; patio; Texas cooking.
Texas Fusion BBQ – 200 West Murphy Avenue; 432-837-1214; great hamburgers.
La Trattoria Cafe – 901 East Holland Avenue; 432-837-2200; latrattoriacafe.com; friendly bistro on Highway 90.

Shopping
Front Street Books – 121 East Holland Avenue; 432-837-3360; fsbooks.com; also sells topographical maps.

Sights & Sites
Black Gap Wildlife Management Area – FM Highway 2627; 432-376-2216; tpwd.state.tx.us/huntwild/hunt/wma/find_a_wma/list/?id=2; borders Big Bend National Park to northwest; shares 25 miles Rio Grande with Mexican State of Coahuila to east & south; 103K acres where Sierranias del Burro & Sierra del Carmen Mountain Ranges enter Texas; must see Maravillas Canyon.
Museum of Big Bend – 400 North Harrison Street (at Sul Ross University); 432-837-8730; museumofthebigbend.com; Livermore arrowhead collection.



BALMORHEA
Sights & Sites
Balmorhea State Park – 9207 Texas Highway 17; 432-375-2370; tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/balmorhea; world’s largest spring fed pool; 72˚ water, year-round, & home to fish, turtles, and various other creatures; retro motor-court style cabins.



COTTONWOOD
Camping
Cottonwood Campground – Big Bend National Park; 877-444-6777; nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/cottonwood_campground.htm; quiet, shady desert oasis located between Castolon Historic District & scenic Santa Elena Canyon.



FORT DAVIS
Sights & Sites
Fort Davis National Historic Site – 101 Lt Henry Flipper Drive; 432-426-3224; nps.gov/foda; Army outpost from 1854.



HOT SPRINGS
Sights & Sites
Boquillas Hot Springs/Hot Springs Historic District – Hot Springs Road; 432-477-2251 (Big Bend National Park main number); nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/soakinthesprings.htm#_=_; most famous of thermal features along Big Bend of Rio Grande is Langford Hot Springs; located where Tornillo Creek enters Rio Grande, some 4 miles upriver from Boquillas Canyon & Mexican village of Boquillas; natural springs at site are known as Boquillas Hot Springs; boquillas is Spanish for “little mouths” & refers to many small streams (arroyos) that drain this part of Sierra del Carmen range & flow into Rio Grande; several other area small hot springs; temperature is 105°F year-round; water contains calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium chloride & lithium.



MARATHON
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
V6 Coffee Bar – 109 Northeast 1st Street (Marathon, at Gage Hotel); 432-386-4205; gagehotel.com/v6-coffee-bar.
Hotels
Gage Hotel – 205 North 1st Street; 432-386-4205 or 800-884-4243; gagehotel.com.

Restaurants
White Buffalo Bar – 205 North 1st Street (at Gage Hotel); 432-386-4205; gagehotel.com.

Sights & Sites
Post Park – 543 Post Road (5 miles south of Marathon); marathontexas.com/index.php?pageid=17; Ol’ Local Watering Hole; small, pastoral county park; site served nomadic people for Ks years; Peña Colorada Springs makes showing here, surfacing below oddly striated bluffs ridged in novaculite, milky quartz layer exposed by uplifting; spring, year-round fresh water source; once supplied US Army post called Camp Peña Colorado in late 1800s; land adjacent to spring, owned by Combs Cattle Company, donated in 1935 to Brewster County by company’s founder, Davis St. Clair Combs, cattle trail driver & Texas rancher; favorite birding spot for enthusiasts & weekend picnic location for locals.
Sky Park – Highway 90; 432-386-4241 or 866-386-4241; marathonskypark.com; has 24" Dobsonian telescope.



MARFA
Bars & Nightclubs
Capri – 603 West San Antonio Street; 432-729-1984; thunderbirdmarfa.com; cement-&-cacti-cool, remote, jewel-toned lounge & restaurant.
Lost Horse Saloon – 306 East San Antonio Street; 432-729-4499; losthorsesaloon.com.
Hotels
Cibolo Creek Ranch – Highway 67; 432-229-3737 or 866-496-9460; cibolocreekranch.com.
Corte del Norte – on Highway 90 (at Dean & San Antonio Streets); 415-562-7329 ; cortedelnorte.com or airbnb.com/rooms/757652; minimalist accommodations designed by folks behind Garza Furniture; 2 house property is haven; stock tank pool.
El Cosmico – 802 South Highland Avenue; 432-729-1950 or 877-822-1950; elcosmico.com; try staying in yurt; more for experience than comfort
Hotel Paisano – 207 North Highland Avenue; 432-729-3669 or 866-729-3669; hotelpaisano.com; nice, clean, quiet.
Hotel Saint George – 105 South Highland Avenue; 432-729-3700; marfasaintgeorge.com; brand new structure built to invoke Donald Judd’s 80s-era concrete boxes; great views & restaurant.
House on Hill – 201 South Aparejo Street; 214-826-4612 or 432-386-2046; marfahillhouse.com.
Thunderbird Hotel – 601 West San Antonio Street; 432-729-1984 or 877-729-1984; thunderbirdmarfa.com.

Restaurants
Austin Street Café – 405 North Austin Street; 432-729-4653; austinstreetcafe.com; brunch with fruit smoothies.
Capri – 603 West San Antonio Street; 432-729-1984; thunderbirdmarfa.com; cement-&-cacti-cool, remote, jewel-toned lounge & restaurant.
Carmen’s Café – 317 East San Antonio Street; 432-729-3429; cinnamon rolls at breakfast and Mexican lunches.
Cochineal – 107 1/2 West San Antonio Street; 432-729-3300; cochinealmarfa.com; open for breakfast.
Food Shark – Shade Pavillion, Highland Avenue; 432-386-6540; foodsharkmarfa.com; try marfalafel; Tuesday through Friday.
Maiya’s – 103 North Highland Street; 432-729-4410; maiyasrestaurant.com; eclectic, seasonally changing menu, homemade breads, and ideal margarita.
Pizza Foundation – 100 East San Antonio Street; 432-729-3377; pizzaoundation.com; stellar, thin-crust pizza and fresh limeade.
Tacos del Norte – 1500 West San Antonio Street; 432-729-4540; try sopes and beef barbacoa.
Tumbleweed Laundry – 120 North Austin Street; 432-729-4033; tumbleweedlaundry.com; for coffee.

Shopping
Farm Stand Marfa – Shade Pavillion, Highland Avenue; desert honey, flaky pear tarts, and spicy burritos, alongside local produce.
Garza Marfa – 103 North Nevill Street; 432-386-6939 or 432-729-1946; garzamarfa.com; custom-made, saddle leather, wood and powder-coated steel furniture; table linens and throw pillows; and works on paper by local artists.
Get Go Grocery – 208 South Dean Street; 432-729-3335; thegetgomarfa.com; quality food stuffs and many local products.

Sights & Sites
Ballroom Marfa – 108 East San Antonio Street; ballroommarfa.org; art, film, and music.
Chinati Foundation – 1 Cavalry Row; 432-729-4362; at 10 a.m., Wed.-Sun.
Cobra Rock Boot Co. – 107 South Dean Street; cobrarock.com; it takes cobblers Colt Miller & Logan Caldbeck 4 days to make single pair superhip, square-toe, lace-up, South Highland leather boots — along with 10-month-long waiting list; 1940s-inspired, Western-flavor boots.
Exhibition 2D – 400 South Highland Avenue; 432-729-1910; exhibitions2d.com; art.
Judd Foundation – 104 South Highland Avenue; 432-729-4406; juddfoundation.org; residence and studio spaces tours.
Marfa Contemporary – 100 East San Antonio Street; 432-729-3500; marfacontemporary.org; art.
Mirth Marfa – 105 West Texas Street; 432-729-4448; mirthmarfa.com; homewares.
Presidio Courthouse Cupola – Lincoln & North Highland Streets; 432-729-4942; co.presidio.tx.us; payoff for climbing 5 flights of stairs to get to cupola is sensational 360° view.
Wrong Marfa – 110 West Dallas Street; 432-729-1976; wrongmarfa.com; “novel utilitarian objects.”



PANTHER JUNCTION (includes Basin Rural Station)
Hotels
Chisos Mountains Lodge – Basin Rural Station; 432-477-2292 or 877-386-4383; chisosmountainslodge.com; although not luxurious, perfectly adequate, with restaurant, in stunning location and some of best stargazing in park.

Sights & Sites
Big Bend National Park – 1 Panther Drive; 432-477-2251; nps.gov/bibe; great stargazing; make sure to hike up Emory Peak, park’s highest peak; also, Lost Mine Trail.
Cattail Falls Trail – near Chisos Basin Visitor Center: head south on Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, just after mile marker 3, you will see signs for Sam Nail Ranch overlook & small opening in scrub brush will appear on your left; turn left down dirt road (follow for about mile or 2 until you reach remote parking area in desert), after parking, head further down road to barricade; keep walking past barricade down to Oak Spring split & take trail right up hill, not to left (left trail will take you all way up to Chisos Basin via Window trail); americansouthwest.net/texas/big_bend/cattail-falls-trail.html; not many people know about this hike, which is especially interesting given beautiful oasis payoff at end; Cattail Falls trail is only about 1.5 miles or so up into canyon; be on lookout for black bear (they frequent this area, so make noise as you hike); trail will go over large boulders toward end & finish at pool at foot of Cattail Falls; quite bit of poison oak.
Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive – nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/ross-maxwell-scenic-drive.htm; begins 12 miles from Panther Junction; from Panther Junction, turn left on Ross Maxwell Drive (passes between Chisos Mountains to east & Burro Mesa to west); along windy road are numerous turnouts from which can see volcanic outcroppings & stunning vistas; stop at Window Overlook for view through V-shaped notch in Chisos Mountains to Casa Grande & desert beyond; from Basin trailhead, hike easy .3-mile round-trip (Window View Trail) for another incredible vantage point; few miles ahead, Sotol Vista Overlook is another contender for park’s best view, overlooking west to Santa Elena Canyon & Rio Grande; continue on, taking 1.5 mile side road to Burro Mesa Pour-Off Trail (1/2 mile trail leads to desert pour-off, narrow chute that provides run-off for rainwater); back on Ross Maxwell Road, stop at Mule Ears Overlook where can see rock formation Mule Ear Peaks; further down road, Tuff Canyon formed from soft white volcanic tuff (compressed ash); ahead, Cerro Castellan, 3.293' multi-hued ash & lava layers; continuing along, pass former cavalry camp, Castolon, where frontier trading post is still open & antique equipment on display; 8 miles from Castolon is extraordinary Santa Elena Overlook (among Big Bend National Park’s most spectacular scenes, where Rio Grande carved 1.500' chasm out of limestone makes up Texas on one wall, Mexico on other; road ends shortly afterwards; from here, choose either to retrace road back or 13-mile, gravel Old Maverick Road, which connects Santa Elena Canyon to Maverick at Texas 118; though generally well-maintained, check for road conditions especially after rains; from Maverick, head west on Texas 118 & continue on Texas 170 to visit Big Bed Ranch State Park via El Camino del Rio; worthwhile stops include Sam Nail Ranch (abandoned homestead) & Homer Wilson Ranch (same), as well as Castolon Historic District; access to Santa Elena Canyon at road’s end.



PERSIMMON GAP
Sights & Sites
Big Bend National Park – from Marathon, drive 70 miles south on US 385 to Panther Junction; entrance to park.



PRESIDIO
Sights & Sites
Fort Leaton State Historic Site – Farm-to-Market Road 170 (Presidio); 432-229-3613; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/fort-leaton; original adobe structure was private residence dating back to early 19th Century.



RIO GRANDE VILLAGE
Camping
Rio Grande Village Campground – Big Bend National Park; 877-444-6777; nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/rgv_campground.htm; set in large cottonwood grove, adjacent to Rio Grande River; camp store 7 showers within walking distance.

Sights & Sites
Hot Springs Historic District – Texas 385; 432-477-2251; texasmountaintrail.com/plan-your-adventure/historic-sites-and-cities/sites/hot-springs-historic-district-big-bend-national#sthash.hYNhEdri.dpuf; steady stream 105° water.



STUDY BUTTE
Restaurants
Big Bend Cafe – State Highway 118; good burger & fries.

Sights & Sites
Big Bend National Park – from Alpine, drive 80 miles south on Texas 118, then follow FM 170 to Maverick Junction; entrance to park.



TERLINGUA
Hotels
Bee Mountain Cabin – Bee Mountain Road (off of Highway 118); airbnb.com/rooms/9777979; small cabin conveniently located to Big Bend National Park; queen size bed & futon; full size kitchen with all essentials; pet friendly with fenced yard.
La Posada Milagro – 100 Milagro Road; 432-371-3044; laposadamilagro.net; rustic luxury, sun decks, fire pits & extraordinary views over old Terlingua, Chisos Mountain range & Big Bend.
Tin Valley Retro Rentals (Desert Diva) – 889 Sombrero Peak Road; 432-386-7312; facebook.com/tinvalleyretrorentals.

Restaurants
Starlight Theatre – 631 Ivey Road; 432-371-2326; starlighttheatre.com; try chili.

Services
Big Bend River Tours – FM 170 West (just after Highway 118); 432-371-3033; bigbendrivertours.com.

Sights & Sites
Barton Warnock Visitor Center – HC 70; 432-424-3327; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/barton-warnock/map; discusses Big Bend Ranch State Park.
Big Bend Ranch State Park – 1900 South Saucedo; 432-358-4444; tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/big-bend-ranch; half size of Big Bend National Park yet largest state park.



VALENTINE
Sights & Sites
Prada Marfa – US Highway 90 (2 miles north of Valentine, on Highway’s south side); atlasobscura.com/place/prada-marfa.

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