SALZBURG

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Afro Cafe – 5 Bürger­spitalplatz; 011-43-66-284-4888; afrocoffee.com; eye-catching African café venture; retro design includes hot-pink walls, butterfly-shaped chairs, plastic palms, and artworks sculpted from junk; coffee.
●Café Bazar – 3 Schwarzstrasse; 011-43-66-287-4278; hotel-brandstaetter.com; century old, Viennese coffeehouse with crystal chandeliers, marble tabletops, and wood paneling; guest book (since 1927) includes Marlene Dietrich, Thomas Mann, and Arthur Miller.
●Café-Konditorei Fuerst – 5 Mirabellplatz; 011-43-66-288-1077; original-mozartkugel.com; chocolates and coffee since late 1800s.
●Café Tomaselli – 9 Alter Markt; 011-43-66-2844-4880; tomaselli.at; open since 1705; 2-level, Biedermeier-style salon.
●Fuerst – 47 Getreidegasse; 011-43-66-284-3759; original-mozartkugel.com; chocolates and coffee since late 1800s.
●220 Grad – 5 Chiemseegasse; 011-43-66-282-7881; 220grad.com; fairtrade, ultramodern café.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Alchimiste Belge – 10 Bergstrasse (Neustadt); 011-43-66-0681-5725; alchimiste-belge.at; Belgian beer bar popular with musicians and/or students.
●Steinterrace – 3-5 Giselakai (at Hotel Stein); 011-43-66-2874-3460; hotelstein.at; for evening cocktails; try Cookie in Cup (Glenmorangie Nectar d'Or, Mozart Black, cookie syrup, espresso, rosemary, and vanilla).



HOTELS
●Hotel Bristol – 4 Makartplatz; 011-43-66-287-3557; bristol-salzburg.at; 60 rooms in décor ranging from Biedermeier to fin de siècle.
●Ganshof Gasthaus – 13 Ganshofstrasse (Maxglan); 011-43-66-283-3630; old bed and breakfast or pensione; featured in Thomas Bernhard’s Loser.
●Hotel Goldener Hirsch – 37 Getreidegasse; 011-43-66-280-840; starwoodhotels.com; 15th Century inn; antique-rustic décor.
●Hotel Sacher – 5-7 Schwarzstrasse; 011-43-66-288-9770; sacher.com; old-world, 1866 property.
●Schloss Fuschl Resort & Spa – 19 Schloss Strasse; 011-43-66-292-5300; luxurycollection.com/schlossfuschl; chateau overlooking lake; “Old Master” collection.
●Hotel Schloss Monchstein – 26 Monchsbergpark; 011-43-66-284-8555; monchstein.at; Teutonic-style manor house (really, small castle) on hilltop above Salzburg; panoramic city views; site constructed as fortified tower in 1350 and transformed into hotel in 1950; garden terrace overlooking private park; suites are some of most spectacularly decorated rooms in Salzburg; restaurant and bar, Restaurant Schloss Mönchstein, serves 1^st-rate Austrian and international dishes at elegant, candlelit tables; also "Smallest Restaurant in World" holds no more than 4 people in castle tower with panoramic view.
●Hotel Stein – 3-5 Giselakai; 011-43-66-2874-3460; hotelstein.at; modern boutique with retro-chic furnishings.



RESTAURANTS
●Afro Cafe – 5 Bürger­spitalplatz; 011-43-66-284-4888; afrocoffee.com; eye-catching African café venture; retro design includes hot-pink walls, butterfly-shaped chairs, plastic palms, and artworks sculpted from junk; try sticky ostrich kebabs or coco-nutty Zanzibar salad with Algiers ginger punch.
●Andreas Hofer Weinstube Tavern – 65 Steingasse; 011-43-66-287-2769; dieweinstube.at; no frills, regional cuisine; try Knodelgeheimnis (bread dumplings cooked with fried egg and sauerkraut); arched ceiling, candle-lit atmosphere.
●Café Bazar – 3 Schwarzstrasse; 011-43-66-287-4278; hotel-brandstaetter.com; century old, Viennese coffeehouse with crystal chandeliers, marble tabletops, and wood paneling; perfect breakfasts; guest book (since 1927) includes Marlene Dietrich, Thomas Mann, and Arthur Miller.
●Il Sole – 15 Gstättengasse; 011-43-66-284-3284; salzburgs.com/il-sole; delicious wood-fired pizza; Italian owner once starred on German TV series DasTraumschiff (Love Boat).
●M32 – 32 Monchsberg (atop Monchsberg Mountain, at Museum der Moderne); 011-43-66-284-222-0401; museumdermoderne.at; rectangular glass-and-white marble structure that juts from 19^th Century water tower); Matteo Thun-designed setting includes 390 antler chandelier; Mediterranean-inflected, Austrian cuisine.
●Stadtkrug Hallein – 10 Bayrhamerplatz; 011-43-62-458-3085; stadtkrug-hallein.at; tables fill quickly during midday rush at this bustling, wood-beamed restaurant in city center; weather permitting, sit beside fountain on square for goulash or schnitzel.
Services
●Salzburg Panorama Tours – 2 Schrannengasse; 011-43-66-288-3221; Mozart tour, Sound of Music tour (Lake District), or Eagle’s Nest tour (Berchtesgaden and Obersalzburg).



SHOPPING
●Periscope – 10 Sterneckstrasse (Neustadt); 011-43-676-704-2566; periscope.at; artist-run gallery and project space.



SIGHTS & SITES
●Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac – 2 Mirabellplatz; 011-43-66-288-1393; ropac.net; Austria’s most important “gallerist” headquarters, in Villa Kast, overlooking Mirabell gardens; modern art.
●Getreidegasse – in Old Town; means “Grain Lane”; Mozart born at #9.
●Hangar 7 – Salzburg Airport, Wilhelm-Spazier-Strasse 7A; 011-43-66-22197; hangar-7.com; owned by Red Bull mogul; showcases vintage aircraft; contemporary art exhibits and live music performances; upscale bistro and restaurant on-site.
●Hellbrunn Palace – 37 Fürstenweg (Morzg); 011-43-66-2820-3720; hellbrunn.at; early Baroque villa; palatial in size; built in 1613-19 and named for "clear spring" that supplied it; famous for its jeux d'eau ("watergames") in summer months, practical jokes to be performed on spectators (e.g., stone seats around stone dining table through which water conduit sprays water into guests' seat and hidden fountains that surprise and spray guests while they tour; in large park with neighboring zoo, stone theater, and small building known as Monatschlossl ("little month-palace"), housing Carolina Augusteum Museum's ethnographic collection.
●Hohensalzburg Fortress & Burgmuseum – 34 Mönchsberg; 011-43-66-2842-43011; salzburg-burgen.at/en/hohensalzburg; former ruling prince-archbishops' stronghold before they moved "downtown" to Residenz; towers 400' above Salzach River on rocky ledge; to get here, hike up lane/paths or walk from Kapitelplatz by way of Festungsgasse or from Mönchsberg via Schartentor; can also take funicular from Festungsgasse (011-43-66-284-2682, at station behind cathedral; can purchase advance ticket to museum, which includes admission and funicular ride (call Festungsgasse or museum in advance for ticket availability.
●International Mozarteum Foundation – 26 Schwarzstrasse; 011-43-66-288-9400; mozarteum.at; world-class orchestral and operatic programs.
●Mirabell Palace & Gardens – 4 Mirabellplatz; 011-43-66-280-722-406; salzburg.info/en/sights/fortress_palaces/mirabell_palace_gardens.htm; originally constructed in 1606; grand Papagena fountain, Orangerie (housing Bernini and Reubens artworks).
●Monchsberg – 13 Gstattengasse; 011-43-66-288-849-750; salzburg.info/en/service/infos/moenchsberg-lift_az-257450; perfect place to spend afternoon, weather permitting; walk to summit not too demanding, though less energetic visitors can take funicular to top (walk highly recommended as path passes through lovely forest and past numerous beautiful, old houses; view from top spectacular.
●Mozartplatz – Old Town.
●Museum der Moderne – 32 Monchsberg (atop Monchsberg Mountain); 011-43-66-284-222-0401; museumdermoderne.at; rectangular glass-and-white marble structure that juts from 19^th Century water tower); 4 floors of modern art; plan visit to stay for dinner onsite (at M32 Restaurant).
●Old Town – UNESCO World Heritage Site.
●Salzburg Cathedral & Museum and Residenz Palace – Residenzplatz; 011-43-66-284-4189; kirchen.net/dommuseum; 17^th Century baroque cathedral; where Mozart baptized; 1^st constructed in 774; present Salzburg Cathedral built partially upon old basilica; museum.
●Salzburg Landestheater – 22 Schwartzstrasse; 011-43-66-287-151-2222; salzburger-landestheater.at; live performances.
●Salzburger Kunstverein – 3 Hellbrunner Strasse; 011-43-66-2842-2940; salzburger-kunstverein.at; contemporary art exhibition space with additional, 21 ateliers for working artists.
●Salzwelten Salz­burg – 3 Ramsaustrasse (Hallein); 011-43-61-322-002-400; salzwelten.at; salt show-mine; visitors must don boiler suit to descend on rickety train through claustrophobic passageways and then down 27m slide – don’t break, lift your legs ask guide to add wax for extra speed; after crossing salt lake on wooden raft, after which 42m slide brings you to lowest point.
●St. Peter's Abbey – St. Peter Bezirk; 011-43-66-2844-5780; stift-stpeter.at; medieval monastery for over 1K years.