Wednesday, January 9, 2013


Negresco – 37 Promenade des Anglais; 011-33-04-9316-6400;; excellent restaurant, too.
Nice Palais de la Méditerranée – 13 Promenade des Anglais; 011-33-04-9327-1234;; perhaps swishest, best-provisioned and most expansive Nice luxury hotel; extraordinary, 9-story façade with neo-classical columns & art-deco effusiveness.
Villa Sous Les Pins – 011-44-786-332-9867;;; spectacular.

Le Bistrot d’Antoine – 27 Rue de la Prefecture; 011-33-04-9385-2957; in Nice’s old town; simple, Provencal fare; open for over century.
Flaveur – 25 Rue Gubernatis; 011-33-04-9362-5395;; Michelin star; Asian and Provencal flavors.
Glacier Fenocchio – 2 Place Rosetti; 011-33-04-9380-7252;; ice cream.
Restaurant Luc Salsedo – 14 Rue Maccarani; 011-33-04-9382-9368;; prix fixe menu; changes every 10 days. Very good and authentic.
Keisuke Matsushima – 22 Rue de France; 011-33-04-9382-2606;
La Merenda – 4 Rue Raul Bosio; no phone or web address; tiny bistro; no reservations; cash only; 1 of critics’ perennial favorites.
Noir Chat Blanc Chat – 20 Rue Barillerie; 011-33-04-9380-2869;; tucked away in cool lane behind sunny tourist-filled terraces overlooking Cours Saleya market; market-driven, modern Mediterranean food; 3 sidewalk tables only; chef is Milan-born so excellent risottos.
La Petite Maison – 11 Rue St. Francois-de-Paule; 011-33-04-9392-5959;; poor attitude but great food.
La Reserve – 60 Boulevard Franck Pilatte; 011-33-04-9708-1480;; glamorous.

Albert Arts – 5 Promenade des Anglais; 011-33-04-9387-2873;; owned by designer behind Faconnable (Albert Goldberg); easily smartest men’s sportswear shop on Riviera.

Cimiez – neighborhood north of city center; area contains Musée Matisse and Cemenelum ruins (Ancient Roman province Alpes Maritimae province on Ligurian coast), Cemenelum existing as city separate from Nice until Lombard invasions; ruins include amphitheater, arena, paleo-Christian basilica, and thermal baths; nearby are Cimiez Monastery and church used by Franciscan monks since 16th Century (church houses Ludovico Brea’s Pietà, Crucifixion, and Deposition); buried in cemetery near monastery are Raoul Dufy, Henri Matisse, and 1937 Literature Nobel Prize winner Roger Martin du Gard.
Musee d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain – Promenade des Arts; 011-33-04-9713-4201;; houses avant-garde works from both France and US, such as Lichtenstein, Rauschenberg, and Warhol; separate section for Yves Klein.
Musee des Beaux-Arts – 33 Avenue des Baumettes; 011-33-04-9215-2828;; Belle Epoque era and French Masters works from 19th and 20th Centuries, including Monet, Raffaelli, and Rodin.
Musee Franciscain – 164 Avenue des Arenes de Cimiez (in Monastere de Cimiez); 011-33-04-9353-4053;; 17th Century frescoes.
Musee Matisse – 164 Avenue des Arenes de Cimiez (in Monastere de Cimiez); 011-33-04-9381-0808;
Terrasse Frederic Nietzsche – at southeast end of Vieux Nice; park on slopes & top of Castle Hill; square with balustrades; magnificent view.

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